Vientiane

Vientiane (Lao: ວຽງຈັນ, Vieng Chan) is the capital of Laos.

Compared to the hectic, bustling capitals in other Southeast Asian countries, Vientiane's relaxing atmosphere makes it feel like the small town it is. After you've done the round of temples, the best thing to do here has always been to wander down to the riverside, relax with a cold Beerlao, the Lao national beer, and watch the sun set on the Mekong.

Of course, the booming tourism industry is changing this by slowly but surely bringing the excesses of Thailand and China to this formerly sleepy city. Just like any other Southeast Asian capital or major city, Vientiane is experiencing a building boom. Even its Presidential Palace is having a major makeover-addition and a new convention centre has been built.

Settled since at least 1000 CE, Vientiane became an important administrative city of the Kingdom of Lan Xang ("million elephants") in 1545. Ransacked in 1828 by the Siamese, Vientiane sprung back to be again named the capital of the protectorate of Laos by the French, a position it kept after independence (1953) and after the communists took over in 1975. Today Vientiane is the largest city in Laos, with an estimated population of 210,000 in the city and some 700,000 in Vientiane Prefecture.

Vientiane stretches along the northeast bank of a bend in the Mekong River. From the riverbank inland, the main roads running parallel to the river are Fa Ngum Rd, Setthathirat Rd, and Samsenthai Rd. The central district, Chanthabuli, contains most of Vientiane's governmental offices, hotels, and restaurants. Vientiane's widest boulevard, Lane Xang Rd, runs from the Presidential Palace (now used for governmental offices and for state receptions) to the northeast around Patuxai, the Victory Gate, towards Pha That Luang, the That Luang Stupa, the most important religious monument in Laos.

Vientiane is best viewed as a comfortable transit point for other places in Laos, or as a recuperative stop on the way out. It's a pleasant enough place, but generally, there is little reason to spend more than a couple of days here.

• COPE Visitor Centre. 09:00-18:00. This centre explores the Lao legacy of unexploded ordnance (UXO) and the National Rehabilitation Centre's efforts to expand prosthetic, orthotic, and rehabilitation services across the country. There are exhibits, and visitors can watch short films on the subject. Exhibits are appropriate for all ages. An excellent gift shop offers fun, offbeat souvenirs that support a good cause. Free parking. Free.
• Kaysone Phomvihane Museum, Muang Saythani (km6 Dongdok Rd. Tu-Su 09:00-16:00. Kaysone Phomvihane was the leader of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party from 1955. He served as the first prime minister of the Lao People's Democratic Republic from 1975 to 1991 and then as president from 1991 until his death a year later. 5,000 kip.
• Lao National Museum, Samsenthai Rd (Next to Lao Plaza Hotel. 08:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00. Formerly the Lao Revolutionary Museum. It should be rechristened the Lao Natural, Cultural, and Political Science and History Museum, the historical exhibits on the first floor are modest though very interesting in depicting some of the early history. They include one of the original jars from the Plain of Jars and various stone and Bronze Age implements. The second floor provides great insight into the 18th-century Laotian Kingdom and the customs of the day. It would appear that the Laotians did not treat their guests quite as well in those days, often keeping them from leaving the country for several months. The floor builds up to a fervently revolutionary pitch as it documents the heroic struggle of the Lao against the Siamese (Thai), French, and American imperialists. Exhibits include items such as socks worn by politburo members when they escaped from prison and Kaysone Phomvihane's chest expander. The final rooms, on post-revolutionary Laos, are mostly a photo gallery of pressing topics such as the comrades of the 7th Plenary Session of the Laos People's Congress inspecting fertilizer production processes. The final rooms provide an insight into some of the modern advancements, though these are fairly dowdy and uninspiring. Visitors are routed through the shop, and items look like they have been on sale since the revolution in 1975. A guestbook regularly features amusing arguments between young Western visitors on the merits of communism. Most exhibits are labelled in broken English, though some French labelling remains, occasionally to the exclusion of English. It has been closed but may reopen, possibly at another address. 10,000 kip.
• Lao People's Army History Museum, Kaysone Phomvihane Rd, Ban Nongsangthong, +856 20 76 505 431. Tu-Su 08:30-16:30. Displays the equipment and other items from the period of revolutionary struggle, 1950-1975. 5,000 kip.
• Patuxai, Ave Lane Xang. A local rendition of the Arc de Triomphe. Besides having elaborate Buddhist embellishment, it differs from the original in having four gates instead of two and being just a bit higher to spite the French. Reasonably impressive from afar, a surprisingly frank English sign inside the monument labels it a "monster of concrete" when seen up close. The concrete was donated by the US, although it was supposed to go towards a new airport instead: hence the nickname "the Vertical Runway". The monument itself aside, the palm tree-lined park around it complete with fountains is quite pleasant though lacking of shade during the daytime. You can climb up to the 7th storey, stairs only, for a nice view of central Vientiane and three levels of souvenir shops with less than enthusiastic sales people sitting about. It features a musical fountain nearby that attracts visitors from around Laos and Asia, as well as a World Peace Gong presented by Indonesia. Roving cameramen will be happy to charge you for photos near these attractions. 3,000 kip (to climb).
• President Souphanouvong Memorial, Kaysone Phomvihane Rd, Ban Phonsa-art, +856 20 55 821 230. Tu-Su, 08:30-16:00. 5,000 kip.
• Presidental Palace.
• Lao Cultural Hall, Rue Setthathilath.

There are many more temples all over the town, but if you are out to admire temples Luang Prabang is the place to go, not Vientiane.

Some temples (indicated below) charge an entry fee 5,000 kip and are open 08:00-16:00, with a 12:00-13:00 lunch break. The monks at places that don’t charge a fee are grateful for a small donation.

• Chinese Temple, Quai Fa Ngum (Two blocks from Wat Xieng Nyeun.
• Black Stupa. The mythical abode of a seven-headed dragon that protects Vientiane. It was renovated in 1995, but still has an attractive patina of age, and is slowly being overgrown again by lush grass vegetation. Take care as there have been dog attacks at night.
• Hophakaew Museum, Setthathirat Rd (Opposite Wat Si Saket. A stunning, elegant, and majestic structure, King Setthathirat's former royal temple, which housed the magical Emerald Buddha (pha kaew) after it was taken from Lanna (Chiang Mai). The Siamese took it back in 1779, and is now housed in Bangkok's Wat Phra Kaew. Later the Thais returned in 1828 to raze the temple. The present structure is a 1942 reconstruction of dubious provenance. Today, the temple no longer operates and the interior has been turned into a small jumbled museum housing Buddha images. Look for the beautiful tall, lithe, long-armed Buddha in the hands-down "calling for rain" pose. 5,000 kip.
• Inpeng Temple.
• Pha That Luang. Daily, 08:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00. The national symbol and most important religious monument of the country, That Luang is a three-layered gilded stupa. The current version dates from 1566, although it has been ransacked and renovated numerous times since then. Accessing the inner courtyard gives you a slightly closer view of the stupa, and lots of Buddha statues. Vientiane's most important festival, Bun That Luang, is held here in Nov on the night of the full moon. There are two temples beside That Luang: Wat That Luang Neua (north) and Wat That Luang Tai (south), which are being renovated. 5,000 kip.
• Wat Chan, Quai Fa Ngum (ຖະໜົນເຈົ້າຟ້າງຸ່ມ).
• Wats Onteu, Inpeng, Mixay & Haisok, Rue Setthathilath (Along Setthatirat Rd in the town centre. Given their location, the temples most likely to be visited by tourists.
• Wat Xieng Ngeun, Xieng Nyeun.
• Wat Si Muang, +856 20 99 690 409. Disney-esque and gaudy in set-up, one would not think that it's a religious compound. Despite its small size, the temple is very active. Followers believe that lifting the small Buddha statue 3 times from its cushion means that your prayers or questions will be answered. The city pillar is being housed in a pagoda-like structure now being constructed separately on another block northwest across the street. Free.
• Wat Si Saket, Lan Xang Avenue (ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ) (Corner of Lane Xang Rd and Setthathirat Rd. With very contemplative ambience, probably the oldest standing temple in Vientiane and among the most atmospheric. Built in 1818 by Chao Anou in the Bangkok-style and hence left unsacked when much of Vientiane was razed in a Siamese raid in 1828. Within the cloister walls are hundreds of niches housing Buddha images large and small, made of wood, stone, silver and bronze. In the centre of the courtyard is a five-tier-roofed sim (ordination hall) housing yet more Buddha niches and beautiful, but fading murals of the Buddha's past lives. 5,000 kip.

Chinese Temple, Quai Fa Ngum (Two blocks from Wat Xieng Nyeun.

Black Stupa. The mythical abode of a seven-headed dragon that protects Vientiane. It was renovated in 1995, but still has an attractive patina of age, and is slowly being overgrown again by lush grass vegetation. Take care as there have been dog attacks at night.

Hophakaew Museum, Setthathirat Rd (Opposite Wat Si Saket. A stunning, elegant, and majestic structure, King Setthathirat's former royal temple, which housed the magical Emerald Buddha (pha kaew) after it was taken from Lanna ([[Chiang Mai]]). The Siamese took it back in 1779, and is now housed in [[Bangkok]]'s [[Bangkok/Rattanakosin#See|Wat Phra Kaew]]. Later the Thais returned in 1828 to raze the temple. The present structure is a 1942 reconstruction of dubious provenance. Today, the temple no longer operates and the interior has been turned into a small jumbled museum housing Buddha images. Look for the beautiful tall, lithe, long-armed Buddha in the hands-down "calling for rain" pose. 5,000 kip.

Inpeng Temple.

Pha That Luang. Daily, 08:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00. The national symbol and most important religious monument of the country, That Luang is a three-layered gilded stupa. The current version dates from 1566, although it has been ransacked and renovated numerous times since then. Accessing the inner courtyard gives you a slightly closer view of the stupa, and lots of Buddha statues. Vientiane's most important festival, Bun That Luang, is held here in Nov on the night of the full moon. There are two temples beside That Luang: Wat That Luang Neua (north) and Wat That Luang Tai (south), which are being renovated. 5,000 kip.

Wat Chan, Quai Fa Ngum (ຖະໜົນເຈົ້າຟ້າງຸ່ມ).

Wats Onteu, Inpeng, Mixay & Haisok, Rue Setthathilath (Along Setthatirat Rd in the town centre. Given their location, the temples most likely to be visited by tourists.

Wat Xieng Ngeun, Xieng Nyeun.

Wat Si Muang, +856 20 99 690 409. Disney-esque and gaudy in set-up, one would not think that it's a religious compound. Despite its small size, the temple is very active. Followers believe that lifting the small Buddha statue 3 times from its cushion means that your prayers or questions will be answered. The city pillar is being housed in a pagoda-like structure now being constructed separately on another block northwest across the street. Free.

Wat Si Saket, Lan Xang Avenue (ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ) (Corner of Lane Xang Rd and Setthathirat Rd. With very contemplative ambience, probably the oldest standing temple in Vientiane and among the most atmospheric. Built in 1818 by Chao Anou in the Bangkok-style and hence left unsacked when much of Vientiane was razed in a Siamese raid in 1828. Within the cloister walls are hundreds of niches housing Buddha images large and small, made of wood, stone, silver and bronze. In the centre of the courtyard is a five-tier-roofed sim (ordination hall) housing yet more Buddha niches and beautiful, but fading murals of the Buddha's past lives. 5,000 kip.

• Buddha Park. An outdoor collection of huge concrete sculptures of Buddhist and Hindu deities, and real and religious beasts. The reclining Buddha is especially impressive. The Park was built in 1958 by the mystic Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat. In 1978 he fled to Thailand, following the communist take-over and went on to create a larger version of the Park (Sala Keoku or Sala Kaew Ku) across the river in Nong Khai, Thailand. There are two travel options. Hire a taxi/tuk tuk from Vientiane, say 100,000 kip. The second, take a public bus. Bus #14 travels from the Khua Din (central Vientiane) station, past the Friendship Bridge, all the way to the Buddha Park for 6,000 kip, one-way. For your return there are always tuk tuks at the Park waiting for customers, or take the bus back. The last bus back to Vientiane departs from the park at 16:45. Entrance 15,000 kip (10,000 kip for Laos citizens).
• National Ethnic Cultural Park, Thanaleng (On the main road (Thadeua Rd), just before the access road to the Friendship Bridge branches off. Here, typical houses of various ethnic groups are on display, though only from the outside unless you happen to meet some kind of custodian who will unlock some of them and show the inside. There also are some statues of dinosaurs and a rather dismal looking small "zoo". Most times the only activity seems to be the kiosks where they sell soft drinks and crisps/chips, but there are said to be occasional cultural shows. Tour operators often take their guests here before or after a visit to the Buddha Park. Not worth a trip.

Buddha Park. An outdoor collection of huge concrete sculptures of Buddhist and Hindu deities, and real and religious beasts. The reclining Buddha is especially impressive. The Park was built in 1958 by the mystic Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat. In 1978 he fled to Thailand, following the communist take-over and went on to create a larger version of the Park (Sala Keoku or Sala Kaew Ku) across the river in [[Nong Khai#See|Nong Khai]], [[Thailand]]. There are two travel options. Hire a taxi/tuk tuk from Vientiane, say 100,000 kip. The second, take a public bus. Bus #14 travels from the Khua Din (central Vientiane) station, past the Friendship Bridge, all the way to the Buddha Park for 6,000 kip, one-way. For your return there are always tuk tuks at the Park waiting for customers, or take the bus back. The last bus back to Vientiane departs from the park at 16:45. Entrance 15,000 kip (10,000 kip for Laos citizens).

National Ethnic Cultural Park, Thanaleng (On the main road (Thadeua Rd), just before the access road to the Friendship Bridge branches off. Here, typical houses of various ethnic groups are on display, though only from the outside unless you happen to meet some kind of custodian who will unlock some of them and show the inside. There also are some statues of dinosaurs and a rather dismal looking small "zoo". Most times the only activity seems to be the kiosks where they sell soft drinks and crisps/chips, but there are said to be occasional cultural shows. Tour operators often take their guests here before or after a visit to the Buddha Park. Not worth a trip.

COPE Visitor Centre. 09:00-18:00. This centre explores the Lao legacy of unexploded ordnance (UXO) and the National Rehabilitation Centre's efforts to expand prosthetic, orthotic, and rehabilitation services across the country. There are exhibits, and visitors can watch short films on the subject. Exhibits are appropriate for all ages. An excellent gift shop offers fun, offbeat souvenirs that support a good cause. Free parking. Free.

Kaysone Phomvihane Museum, Muang Saythani (km6 Dongdok Rd. Tu-Su 09:00-16:00. Kaysone Phomvihane was the leader of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party from 1955. He served as the first prime minister of the Lao People's Democratic Republic from 1975 to 1991 and then as president from 1991 until his death a year later. 5,000 kip.

Lao National Museum, Samsenthai Rd (Next to Lao Plaza Hotel. 08:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00. Formerly the Lao Revolutionary Museum. It should be rechristened the Lao Natural, Cultural, and Political Science and History Museum, the historical exhibits on the first floor are modest though very interesting in depicting some of the early history. They include one of the original jars from the Plain of Jars and various stone and Bronze Age implements. The second floor provides great insight into the 18th-century Laotian Kingdom and the customs of the day. It would appear that the Laotians did not treat their guests quite as well in those days, often keeping them from leaving the country for several months. The floor builds up to a fervently revolutionary pitch as it documents the heroic struggle of the Lao against the Siamese (Thai), French, and American imperialists. Exhibits include items such as socks worn by politburo members when they escaped from prison and Kaysone Phomvihane's chest expander. The final rooms, on post-revolutionary Laos, are mostly a photo gallery of pressing topics such as the comrades of the 7th Plenary Session of the Laos People's Congress inspecting fertilizer production processes. The final rooms provide an insight into some of the modern advancements, though these are fairly dowdy and uninspiring. Visitors are routed through the shop, and items look like they have been on sale since the revolution in 1975. A guestbook regularly features amusing arguments between young Western visitors on the merits of communism. Most exhibits are labelled in broken English, though some French labelling remains, occasionally to the exclusion of English. It has been closed but may reopen, possibly at another address. 10,000 kip.

Lao People's Army History Museum, Kaysone Phomvihane Rd, Ban Nongsangthong, +856 20 76 505 431. Tu-Su 08:30-16:30. Displays the equipment and other items from the period of revolutionary struggle, 1950-1975. 5,000 kip.

Patuxai, Ave Lane Xang. A local rendition of the Arc de Triomphe. Besides having elaborate Buddhist embellishment, it differs from the original in having four gates instead of two and being just a bit higher to spite the French. Reasonably impressive from afar, a surprisingly frank English sign inside the monument labels it a "monster of concrete" when seen up close. The concrete was donated by the US, although it was supposed to go towards a new airport instead: hence the nickname "the Vertical Runway". The monument itself aside, the palm tree-lined park around it complete with fountains is quite pleasant though lacking of shade during the daytime. You can climb up to the 7th storey, stairs only, for a nice view of central Vientiane and three levels of souvenir shops with less than enthusiastic sales people sitting about. It features a musical fountain nearby that attracts visitors from around Laos and Asia, as well as a World Peace Gong presented by Indonesia. Roving cameramen will be happy to charge you for photos near these attractions. 3,000 kip (to climb).

President Souphanouvong Memorial, Kaysone Phomvihane Rd, Ban Phonsa-art, +856 20 55 821 230. Tu-Su, 08:30-16:00. 5,000 kip.

Presidental Palace.

Lao Cultural Hall, Rue Setthathilath.

• Champakham Massage & Spa, Rue Francois Ngin (In the very center of Vientiane, next to Fuji restaurant, +856-20-99-11-11-82. 09:00-22:00. Here you can enjoy traditional Lao massage in private cabins. Friendly owner & staff. If you choose full body massage you'll get your feet washed before starting. If you wish to take a shower after your (oil) massage, you're welcome to do so. Spa services include body scrub, bathtub... Good value for money (example: full body massage for 60K Kip [around US$7], full body scrub starting at 80K Kip [around US$10]). Wifi available.
• French Cultural Centre, Lane Xang Rd. Has a French library and a small theatre that shows plays and films.
• Holiday Barber, Chou Anou Rd (Across from the Home Ideal Department Store. This place may be the best salon in Vientiane. Hour long massage for 30,000 kip, manicure/pedicure plus foot scrape for 30,000 kip, Brazilian blowout 100,000 kip.
• Kuanjai Sikhot Boxing Gym, +856 20 56632835. The national sport of Lao PDR. Similar to muay Thai, but is not a tourist trap unlike many gyms in Thailand.
• Lao Dhamma Center KM 38. Peaceful Buddhist meditation centre with a daily schedule dedicated to sincere meditation practice. Foreigners welcome. Hard to find such a place elsewhere in Laos.
• Lao Experiences Cooking Course and Food Tours, +856 20 95553097, +856 20 55699429. Daily. Learn about Lao cooking and culture. Cook Lao-style in the garden on a quiet stretch of the Mekong River.
• Lao National Stadium, Rue Le Ky Huong.
• Lao Massage. This massage shop is particularly delightful. The massage parlour does not really have a name, and the most prominent sign merely says "now open". Your masseur or masseuse will be grateful for a tip. The staff will be happy if you have the decency to take a shower before you go. They won't say anything to your face, but smelly foreigners make their job less than pleasant. US$3-6/hour.
• Monk Chat. Once a month, local monks gather for chats with tourists.
• Nam Ngum Lake. A local favourite. There are floating restaurants along the lakeshore; their specialty is fish fresh from the lake. Cruises among the lake's islands can be booked here, which makes for a relaxing couple of hours. Just enquire at your guest house/hotel or at any travel agency (where they will then try to sell their tours).
• Patuxay Park, Thannon Lan Xang.
• Tour via Vientiane ByCycle, Ban Sithan Neua (Tours start in front of Spirit House Cafe, +856 20 55812337. Vientiane ByCycle offers awesome guided bicycle tours through and around Vientiane. They take you off the beaten track to places where you usually would not go ordinarily. Along villages, temples, school yards, bank of Mekong River, crematoria, markets and local businesses. They have excellent quality mountain bikes.
• Hire a bicycle from Lao Bike, Setthathirath Road (opposite Wat Ong Teu, +85620 55090471. Explore the region with a good quality bicycle. Rent by the day or longer. Bikes are for sale and can be repaired too. $2 to $6 per day.

Champakham Massage & Spa, Rue Francois Ngin (In the very center of Vientiane, next to Fuji restaurant, +856-20-99-11-11-82. 09:00-22:00. Here you can enjoy traditional Lao massage in private cabins. Friendly owner & staff. If you choose full body massage you'll get your feet washed before starting. If you wish to take a shower after your (oil) massage, you're welcome to do so. Spa services include body scrub, bathtub... Good value for money (example: full body massage for 60K Kip [around US$7], full body scrub starting at 80K Kip [around US$10]). Wifi available.

French Cultural Centre, Lane Xang Rd. Has a French library and a small theatre that shows plays and films.

Holiday Barber, Chou Anou Rd (Across from the Home Ideal Department Store. This place may be the best salon in Vientiane. Hour long massage for 30,000 kip, manicure/pedicure plus foot scrape for 30,000 kip, Brazilian blowout 100,000 kip.

Kuanjai Sikhot Boxing Gym, +856 20 56632835. The national sport of Lao PDR. Similar to muay Thai, but is not a tourist trap unlike many gyms in Thailand.

Lao Dhamma Center KM 38. Peaceful Buddhist meditation centre with a daily schedule dedicated to sincere meditation practice. Foreigners welcome. Hard to find such a place elsewhere in Laos.

Lao Experiences Cooking Course and Food Tours, +856 20 95553097, +856 20 55699429. Daily. Learn about Lao cooking and culture. Cook Lao-style in the garden on a quiet stretch of the Mekong River.

Lao National Stadium, Rue Le Ky Huong.

Lao Massage. This massage shop is particularly delightful. The massage parlour does not really have a name, and the most prominent sign merely says "now open". Your masseur or masseuse will be grateful for a tip. The staff will be happy if you have the decency to take a shower before you go. They won't say anything to your face, but smelly foreigners make their job less than pleasant. US$3-6/hour.

Monk Chat. Once a month, local monks gather for chats with tourists.

Nam Ngum Lake. A local favourite. There are floating restaurants along the lakeshore; their specialty is fish fresh from the lake. Cruises among the lake's islands can be booked here, which makes for a relaxing couple of hours. Just enquire at your guest house/hotel or at any travel agency (where they will then try to sell their tours).

Patuxay Park, Thannon Lan Xang.

Tour via Vientiane ByCycle, Ban Sithan Neua (Tours start in front of Spirit House Cafe, +856 20 55812337. Vientiane ByCycle offers awesome guided bicycle tours through and around Vientiane. They take you off the beaten track to places where you usually would not go ordinarily. Along villages, temples, school yards, bank of Mekong River, crematoria, markets and local businesses. They have excellent quality mountain bikes.

Hire a bicycle from Lao Bike, Setthathirath Road (opposite Wat Ong Teu, +85620 55090471. Explore the region with a good quality bicycle. Rent by the day or longer. Bikes are for sale and can be repaired too. $2 to $6 per day.

• Vientiane State Import/Export Enterprises, Samsenthai Rd (Next to Phongsavanh Bank. A duty free, state-owned liquor store. Limited selection but the cheapest prices in town for popular brand name liquor by the bottle. This place is pretty good in terms of product authenticity but nothing is 100% guaranteed.

Vientiane State Import/Export Enterprises, Samsenthai Rd (Next to Phongsavanh Bank. A duty free, state-owned liquor store. Limited selection but the cheapest prices in town for popular brand name liquor by the bottle. This place is pretty good in terms of product authenticity but nothing is 100% guaranteed.

• Banks and money changers are plentiful in the city centre. Money changers give a better rate than the banks. The best rates are at the shops along Rue Lane Xang in the section north of the Talat Sao Morning Market.
• Credit cards are accepted by travel agencies and in better restaurants and shops, but many charge a non-negotiable 3% fee.
• BCEL. Foreign exchange counters at various locations. This bank charges no commission, gives better conversion rates and has longer opening hours than most local banks.
• Phongsavanh Bank. Vientiane's newest and privately owned bank and operates a currency exchange until about 20:30 on weekdays, and for shorter hours on weekends.

ATMs are plentiful, but often cause problems such as out of cash or "eaten card" and sometimes do not accept the major international credit and debit card networks. In addition, most have withdrawal limits of 700,000-2,000,000 kip and charge additional fees. For preventing such trouble, tourists should withdraw money only at ATMs at bank branches.

• ANZV. Allows withdrawals of up to 2,000,000 kip per transaction with a 40,000-kip transaction fee. Supports both Visa and Maestro. There are 2 branches in Vientiane. The first is at the main ANZV office mid-way down Lane Xang. There are now also various ANZV ATMs, for example on the corner of Fa Ngum Rd and Rue Chao Anou and at various minimarts, like the City minimart and at some M Point marts.
• BCEL. Withdrawals are limited to 1,000,000 kip per transaction; however, you may make up to ten of these in one day. MasterCard and Maestro are accepted; Visa also. BCEL charges a fee of 20,000 kip per transaction.
• Joint Development Bank. Possible to withdraw up to 1,000,000 kip per transaction with a 30,000 kip transaction fee. Supports both Visa and Maestro.
• May Bank. Possible to withdraw at least up to 1,500,000 kip per transaction with no transaction fee.

ANZV. Allows withdrawals of up to 2,000,000 kip per transaction with a 40,000-kip transaction fee. Supports both Visa and Maestro. There are 2 branches in Vientiane. The first is at the main ANZV office mid-way down Lane Xang. There are now also various ANZV ATMs, for example on the corner of Fa Ngum Rd and Rue Chao Anou and at various minimarts, like the City minimart and at some M Point marts.

BCEL. Withdrawals are limited to 1,000,000 kip per transaction; however, you may make up to ten of these in one day. MasterCard and Maestro are accepted; Visa also. BCEL charges a fee of 20,000 kip per transaction.

Joint Development Bank. Possible to withdraw up to 1,000,000 kip per transaction with a 30,000 kip transaction fee. Supports both Visa and Maestro.

May Bank. Possible to withdraw at least up to 1,500,000 kip per transaction with no transaction fee.

Credit cards are accepted by travel agencies and in better restaurants and shops, but many charge a non-negotiable 3% fee.

BCEL. Foreign exchange counters at various locations. This bank charges no commission, gives better conversion rates and has longer opening hours than most local banks.

Phongsavanh Bank. Vientiane's newest and privately owned bank and operates a currency exchange until about 20:30 on weekdays, and for shorter hours on weekends.

• Chinese bicycles and mountain bikes can be found in the Morning Market (Talat Sao) and in a few shops in the surrounding streets. Prices for a single gear bike start at about US$50, Mountain bikes at about US$80. In the tourist areas, bikes are rented out for 10,000 kip per day (Feb 2012).
• Top Cycle Zone, 47 Dong Palan. The place to go if you want to buy a decent Western style bicycle or spare parts for one. Mountain bikes from US$350.

Top Cycle Zone, 47 Dong Palan. The place to go if you want to buy a decent Western style bicycle or spare parts for one. Mountain bikes from US$350.

• Monument Books, Nokeo Kumman Rd (Next to the Vayakorn Guesthouse. Offers a good selection of English and French language books and magazines.

Monument Books, Nokeo Kumman Rd (Next to the Vayakorn Guesthouse. Offers a good selection of English and French language books and magazines.

• Seng Lao DVDs. Vientiane boasts one of the best DVD shops in Southeast Asia, with 10,000 titles of quality European, Asian and US movies. Seng Lao has dozens of books displaying DVD covers: you browse the books, and list your choices on a piece of paper they provide, at 10,000 kip each. The nearby and better-marked Seng Dao DVD shop has inferior service and choice. Mind the possible consequences of importing large amounts of illegally copied DVDs into your country. 10,000 kip.

Seng Lao DVDs. Vientiane boasts one of the best DVD shops in Southeast Asia, with 10,000 titles of quality European, Asian and US movies. Seng Lao has dozens of books displaying DVD covers: you browse the books, and list your choices on a piece of paper they provide, at 10,000 kip each. The nearby and better-marked Seng Dao DVD shop has inferior service and choice. Mind the possible consequences of importing large amounts of illegally copied DVDs into your country. 10,000 kip.

• Look for the Stay Another Day: Laos booklet for a guide to non-profit handicraft shops, sustainable manufacturing and other NGO stuff in Vientiane and elsewhere in Laos.
• The Art of Silk, Manthatourath Rd, +856 77 19798, +856 22 02547. M-F 09:00-16:00. Silk and cotton weavings in both traditional and modern designs. A local magazine says "phone before visiting, as there is no permanent staff." Free.
• Kanchana. Traditional Lao silk weavings, hand-woven fabrics, textiles and clothing using natural dyes.
• Laha Boutique. Naturally dyed textiles (mainly cotton) from the south (Savannakhet).
• Lao Textiles. Founded 1990 by an American woman (Carol Cassidy), who now employs some 40 artisans, this firm offers modern cotton weavings using traditional motifs and. Some of their work has been exhibited in international museums, with this reflected in the price. They are not particularly welcoming to visitors, including a locked front door, a bell that needs to be rung to request entry and very prominent "No photography" signs.
• Mixay Boutic (sic). They weave handmade textiles of the shop's own design on the premises, and you are welcome to watch. Beautiful wall hangings, not the cheapest in town, but well worth the price. Also on sale are shirts and skirts, scarves, cushion covers and anything made of fabric.
• Mulberries Lao Sericulture Company. The sales outlet of a not-for-profit organisation that operates in about five hundred villages in Northern Laos, seeking to create income-generating opportunities. Naturally-dyed, handmade Lao silk products.
• TShop Lai, Vat Inpeng St, +856 21 223178. Sells oils, shampoos, soaps, etc., made by Les Artisans Lao as well as honey and some nice handicrafts. Les Artisans Lao is a social venture allowing disadvantaged, uneducated and often marginalised people to receive apprenticeships.

The Art of Silk, Manthatourath Rd, +856 77 19798, +856 22 02547. M-F 09:00-16:00. Silk and cotton weavings in both traditional and modern designs. A local magazine says "phone before visiting, as there is no permanent staff." Free.

Kanchana. Traditional Lao silk weavings, hand-woven fabrics, textiles and clothing using natural dyes.

Laha Boutique. Naturally dyed textiles (mainly cotton) from the south (Savannakhet).

Lao Textiles. Founded 1990 by an American woman (Carol Cassidy), who now employs some 40 artisans, this firm offers modern cotton weavings using traditional motifs and. Some of their work has been exhibited in international museums, with this reflected in the price. They are not particularly welcoming to visitors, including a locked front door, a bell that needs to be rung to request entry and very prominent "No photography" signs.

Mixay Boutic (sic). They weave handmade textiles of the shop's own design on the premises, and you are welcome to watch. Beautiful wall hangings, not the cheapest in town, but well worth the price. Also on sale are shirts and skirts, scarves, cushion covers and anything made of fabric.

Mulberries Lao Sericulture Company. The sales outlet of a not-for-profit organisation that operates in about five hundred villages in Northern Laos, seeking to create income-generating opportunities. Naturally-dyed, handmade Lao silk products.

TShop Lai, Vat Inpeng St, +856 21 223178. Sells oils, shampoos, soaps, etc., made by Les Artisans Lao as well as honey and some nice handicrafts. Les Artisans Lao is a social venture allowing disadvantaged, uneducated and often marginalised people to receive apprenticeships.

• Chinese Market.
• Evening Market, ວຽງຈັນ (Off Asean Rd.
• Home Ideal, Samsenthai Rd (A 2 minute walk on the next street over from Phongsavanh Bank. A Chinese-owned shop, offering good foreign exchange rates. Large one-stop shop for assorted products from stationery to housewares, clothing to luggage. Prices are fixed and reasonable.
• Morning Market. 09:00-16:00. A large collection of indoor stalls selling, well, pretty much anything. There are two floors: the first floor sells mostly textiles, electronics (watch out as nearly all of them are counterfeit), and watches. The second floor has clothing, gold and jewellery. Depending on the product, you should negotiate. Discounts can vary from 10% to 33%.
• Talat Sao Mall, Lan Xang Avenue (ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ). Has 3 floors and is the first public building in Vientiane with indoor parking. On weekends folks from the countryside come and marvel at the escalators (which, in one local magazine article, were referred to in English as "electricity ladders"), and at the bravery of those who venture onto them. The mall boasts a few cafés and a Thai-style food court. The front side of the market has space for parking. The toilets are not far from the entrance and can be used for a very small fee. Many vendors are Thais so they expect you to pay in baht, despite the signs urging you to pay in kip, and they also expect you to be typical dumb tourists who'll pay any price and still think it's a bargain. Souvenir tee-shirts, three for 200 baht. Almost of products here are mentioned in many newspapers or fake product report sites.

Chinese Market.

Evening Market, ວຽງຈັນ (Off Asean Rd.

Home Ideal, Samsenthai Rd (A 2 minute walk on the next street over from Phongsavanh Bank. A Chinese-owned shop, offering good foreign exchange rates. Large one-stop shop for assorted products from stationery to housewares, clothing to luggage. Prices are fixed and reasonable.

Morning Market. 09:00-16:00. A large collection of indoor stalls selling, well, pretty much anything. There are two floors: the first floor sells mostly textiles, electronics (watch out as nearly all of them are counterfeit), and watches. The second floor has clothing, gold and jewellery. Depending on the product, you should negotiate. Discounts can vary from 10% to 33%.

Talat Sao Mall, Lan Xang Avenue (ຖະໜົນລ້ານຊ້າງ). Has 3 floors and is the first public building in Vientiane with indoor parking. On weekends folks from the countryside come and marvel at the escalators (which, in one local magazine article, were referred to in English as "electricity ladders"), and at the bravery of those who venture onto them. The mall boasts a few cafés and a Thai-style food court. The front side of the market has space for parking. The toilets are not far from the entrance and can be used for a very small fee. Many vendors are Thais so they expect you to pay in baht, despite the signs urging you to pay in kip, and they also expect you to be typical dumb tourists who'll pay any price and still think it's a bargain. Souvenir tee-shirts, three for 200 baht. Almost of products here are mentioned in many newspapers or fake product report sites.

Most supermarkets offer groceries from Europe, wines from all over the world (thanks to the low taxation in Laos these are astonishingly low-priced considering the distances involved); dairy products from Laos itself and Thailand (milk, yoghurt), butter and cheese from Europe and New Zealand, and everything else one may need.

• City Minimart. Maybe the shop with the most extensive range of merchandise in the town, and somewhat cheaper than the shops in the centre.
• M-Point Mart. A relatively new convenience store chain, with at least five locations in Vientiane. Much like a 7-Eleven. Stop by around 18:00 and there will be a Thai food cart right in front. Has the best pad Thai in town. You can choose from pad Thai, fried baby mussels, fried rice, and mixed seafood platter. 15,000 kip per plate.
• Phimphone Minimart. An almost a full-grown supermarket. This place will surprise you with the amount of Western stock it carries, but it is expensive, and the owners must make a nice profit on the exchange rate that they apply so it' advisable to pay in kip. A second shop with the same name (the owners are related, the shops are not) is on Samsenthai Rd / corner of Chantha Kumman Rd. Excellent, European-style bread is usually available (on Setthathirat), though the delivery schedule is a bit erratic.
• V-Shop. Outside in front is a small café where they serve some of the best coffee specialties in town (Lao Mountain Coffee), shakes, fruit juices, waffles, doughnuts. Good for people watching on the edge of the Chinese quarter.

City Minimart. Maybe the shop with the most extensive range of merchandise in the town, and somewhat cheaper than the shops in the centre.

M-Point Mart. A relatively new convenience store chain, with at least five locations in Vientiane. Much like a 7-Eleven. Stop by around 18:00 and there will be a Thai food cart right in front. Has the best pad Thai in town. You can choose from pad Thai, fried baby mussels, fried rice, and mixed seafood platter. 15,000 kip per plate.

Phimphone Minimart. An almost a full-grown supermarket. This place will surprise you with the amount of Western stock it carries, but it is expensive, and the owners must make a nice profit on the exchange rate that they apply so it' advisable to pay in kip. A second shop with the same name (the owners are related, the shops are not) is on Samsenthai Rd / corner of Chantha Kumman Rd. Excellent, European-style bread is usually available (on Setthathirat), though the delivery schedule is a bit erratic.

V-Shop. Outside in front is a small café where they serve some of the best coffee specialties in town (Lao Mountain Coffee), shakes, fruit juices, waffles, doughnuts. Good for people watching on the edge of the Chinese quarter.

• Along the river. Dozens of unpretentious restaurants and beer gardens (those upstream from the main beach promenade are generally cheaper). All are pleasant places for a beer and a snack or a complete meal while the sun goes down over the river. One of these is one-time famous John's Restaurant, but since the owner married an Australian and left town there is nothing to distinguish it from the other places left and right. All serve inexpensive (but not really cheap for Laos) Lao, Thai, and some Western food. Among the best is the grilled fish, served by many of them. Take care when you're in for boiled eggs: what you get here are incubated duck eggs. When you open them you're in for a surprise (but at least the little bird does not chirp). The Lao love them and they are hugely popular. In 2005 one of the restaurants along the river put Lao-style reed mats on the ground with low rattan "tables" (kantoke). Diners sit cross-legged on the mat around the table. These became so popular that they can now be found at many of these establishments. They are much nicer than the rickety metal tables and plastic chairs that are the standard of all but the better restaurants in Laos. The riverside open-air restaurants have been known to use two menus, a cheaper one for locals and an expensive one for foreigners.
• Ban Anou Night Market. Has some of the best cheap meals in the city despite being only about 1 block long. Starts setting up at sundown. There's a wide range of street snacks available, including pho made with hand pulled noodles, little lettuce-wrapped snacks with peanut filling (miang), all types of grilled skewered meats, grilled sticky rice, local beverages made from coconut, chai tea, cornm grass jelly and more. Particularly worth trying are the small rice pancakes, two hemispheres of rice-based batter fried in a tin, filled with minced pork and beansprouts and put together. About the size of a flattened tennis ball, absolutely delicious.
• Delicious Noodle - Quan Banh Canh Ngon. For an authentic Lao dining experience there is this noodle soup shop. This restaurant offers the best Lao white thick slimy rice noodles with some pieces of chicken, fried pork, quail's eggs, etc., and the usual vegetable servings: spring onions, cilantro, mung bean sprouts (unlimited serve-yourself quantities). There is also "kanom ku" (Chinese doughnuts) on the side, served ready for pick on every table. Excellent value as it's all for 10,000 kip plus 1,000 kip per kanom ku consumed, on the honour system. Most importantly, the noodle soup tastes great, the broth is delicious.
• Name Unknown. A small group of stalls offering local food patronized by office workers. The ambiance is similar to the morning and night street food markets in Luang Prabang and the vendors seemingly have not been adulterated by touristy mindset. At 09:30, flies hover rarely and the food is steaming hot, having just been lifted out of the cooking fire.
• Nazim Indian Restaurant. Decent Indian food. Their toilet is not the cleanest in the country, perhaps because the patrons of some of the restaurants on the river bank are directed here for certain needs when they are not sent down to the reeds at the water's edge. Nazim has opened another branch in Pang Kham Rd, opposite the offices of Lao Airlines. There are at least 4 other Indian restaurants in the city centre, and all quite similar.
• Noodle Shops. They typically serve rice noodle soups ("feu", a close cousin to Vietnamese phở and Chinese 粉 fan2), often also fried rice and other rice or noodle-based dishes. Around US$1 for a large bowl or plate..
• Ray's Grille Burgers & Mexican (Formerly Ray's Grille), 17/1 Sihom, Vientiane, Laos, +856 20 58 966 866. Serves delicious Philly cheesesteaks, kebabs and quesadillas. Baguettes are freshly baked each day, and sandwiches are given generous amounts of mozzarella and cheddar cheese. Middle Eastern options are accompanied by homemade tahini or tzatziki sauce. Also possible is a traditional family-style Thai feast. The quality of the food is rivalled only by the friendliness of the chef. 17,000-30,000 kip.
• Stay Hungry Burger, +856 20 77516084. Stay Hungry Burger's claim is true as you really do stay hungry after eating there: their burgers are the smallest in the city.
• Taj Mahal Restaurant. Good Indian food at good prices if you don't mind listening to American pop music.
• Ban Lao Beer Garden, 172 François Nginn rd. Ban Mixay. Cheap thai food (14000 LAK) and cheap beer (9000 LAK, for the cheap one, 10000 LAK for Laobeer) Nice quiet garden, nice people. (Thai Spoken)

Along the river. Dozens of unpretentious restaurants and beer gardens (those upstream from the main beach promenade are generally cheaper). All are pleasant places for a beer and a snack or a complete meal while the sun goes down over the river. One of these is one-time famous John's Restaurant, but since the owner married an Australian and left town there is nothing to distinguish it from the other places left and right. All serve inexpensive (but not really cheap for Laos) Lao, Thai, and some Western food. Among the best is the grilled fish, served by many of them. Take care when you're in for boiled eggs: what you get here are incubated duck eggs. When you open them you're in for a surprise (but at least the little bird does not chirp). The Lao love them and they are hugely popular. In 2005 one of the restaurants along the river put Lao-style reed mats on the ground with low rattan "tables" (kantoke). Diners sit cross-legged on the mat around the table. These became so popular that they can now be found at many of these establishments. They are much nicer than the rickety metal tables and plastic chairs that are the standard of all but the better restaurants in Laos. The riverside open-air restaurants have been known to use two menus, a cheaper one for locals and an expensive one for foreigners.

Ban Anou Night Market. Has some of the best cheap meals in the city despite being only about 1 block long. Starts setting up at sundown. There's a wide range of street snacks available, including pho made with hand pulled noodles, little lettuce-wrapped snacks with peanut filling (miang), all types of grilled skewered meats, grilled sticky rice, local beverages made from coconut, chai tea, cornm grass jelly and more. Particularly worth trying are the small rice pancakes, two hemispheres of rice-based batter fried in a tin, filled with minced pork and beansprouts and put together. About the size of a flattened tennis ball, absolutely delicious.

Delicious Noodle - Quan Banh Canh Ngon. For an authentic Lao dining experience there is this noodle soup shop. This restaurant offers the best Lao white thick slimy rice noodles with some pieces of chicken, fried pork, quail's eggs, etc., and the usual vegetable servings: spring onions, cilantro, mung bean sprouts (unlimited serve-yourself quantities). There is also "kanom ku" (Chinese doughnuts) on the side, served ready for pick on every table. Excellent value as it's all for 10,000 kip plus 1,000 kip per kanom ku consumed, on the honour system. Most importantly, the noodle soup tastes great, the broth is delicious.

Name Unknown. A small group of stalls offering local food patronized by office workers. The ambiance is similar to the morning and night street food markets in Luang Prabang and the vendors seemingly have not been adulterated by touristy mindset. At 09:30, flies hover rarely and the food is steaming hot, having just been lifted out of the cooking fire.

Nazim Indian Restaurant. Decent Indian food. Their toilet is not the cleanest in the country, perhaps because the patrons of some of the restaurants on the river bank are directed here for certain needs when they are not sent down to the reeds at the water's edge. Nazim has opened another branch in Pang Kham Rd, opposite the offices of Lao Airlines. There are at least 4 other Indian restaurants in the city centre, and all quite similar.

Noodle Shops. They typically serve rice noodle soups ("feu", a close cousin to Vietnamese phở and Chinese 粉 fan2), often also fried rice and other rice or noodle-based dishes. Around US$1 for a large bowl or plate..

Ray's Grille Burgers & Mexican (Formerly Ray's Grille), 17/1 Sihom, Vientiane, Laos, +856 20 58 966 866. Serves delicious Philly cheesesteaks, kebabs and quesadillas. Baguettes are freshly baked each day, and sandwiches are given generous amounts of mozzarella and cheddar cheese. Middle Eastern options are accompanied by homemade tahini or tzatziki sauce. Also possible is a traditional family-style Thai feast. The quality of the food is rivalled only by the friendliness of the chef. 17,000-30,000 kip.

Stay Hungry Burger, +856 20 77516084. Stay Hungry Burger's claim is true as you really do stay hungry after eating there: their burgers are the smallest in the city.

Taj Mahal Restaurant. Good Indian food at good prices if you don't mind listening to American pop music.

Ban Lao Beer Garden, 172 François Nginn rd. Ban Mixay. Cheap thai food (14000 LAK) and cheap beer (9000 LAK, for the cheap one, 10000 LAK for Laobeer) Nice quiet garden, nice people. (Thai Spoken)

• Banneton Café. Croissants and pastries, simple lunches and excellent baguettes. Tasty, not just something to chew. Their coffee is among the best in Vientiane, on a par with that at JoMa.
• Benoni Cafe. 10:00-17:00. Offers a wide range of reasonably priced Asian and European dishes. The owners are Lao, but speak fluent English, French and German. Daily specials and home roasted coffee beans, the basis for one of the best coffees in town. Busy at lunchtime, discounts after 14:00.
• Chokdee Café Restaurant & Belgian Beer Bar, Quai Fa Gnum (Right by "Chinese Temple", +856-21-26-38-47. 10:00-23:30. Restaurant & beer bar, owned by a friendly Belgian citizen who speaks a good English and so does the staff. Their signature meal, which is the Belgium national one, is mussels & fries, with different flavors to choose from, starting at 95,000 kip (US$11). Some finger food such as mini cheese burgers (35,000 kip). Famous for its beers too, including trappist ones, with around 100 different crafted bottled beers to choose from, plus a dozen on tap. As Belgium is also famous for its comic books, the place is decorated accordingly, with statues & paintings of Tintin and alikes... cosy atmosphere.
• Dai Japanese restaurant, Setthatirath road, +856-21-255-266. M-Sa 11:00-14:00 & 17:00-22:30; Su 17:00-22:30. Japanese restaurant with a Japanese owner and chef, Takashi, who is friendly and speaks an excellent English. Very large selection (sushi, sashimi, miso soup, gyoza, tempura, teriyaki, soba, udon, ramen, curry, taiyaki) and drinks (Asashi beers, sake, potato schochu, rice shochu, shochu sour [which can be confused with fruit juice — watch out if you don't drink alcohol]). Japanese TV on to feel even more like home for Japanese people.
• Dinner Cruises. Two different companies, on boats moored opposite Wat Chan and one 300 metres upriver. Not very impressive, neither the boat trip (1 hour, departure around 19:00, 1 km upstream then 2 downstream and back, only when the water level is high enough) nor the food. Very relaxing. This Lao maritime experience will cost you only slightly more than the same meal in one of the beer gardens on the riverbank.
• Full Moon Café. Nice interior with comfortable seating arrangements and relaxed atmosphere. Asian/European fusion cuisine. Friendly but unfocused staff and reasonable prices. Manager named Khamfanh speaks good English and can help with orders or information about Laos. Free book exchange. Free Wi-Fi.
• Khao Nieow. Meat offered at two levels of quality: Lao beef at around US$4-5; New Zealand lamb and beef at about US$8 and above. To be tried on a cool evening, the fondue bourguignon at US$26 for two, a surprise in a place whose name means "sticky rice". Excellent cheese fondue at US$28 for two. Not something for the hottest months of the year, but nice around year's end when temperatures drop. Set three-course meals at US$4.50.
• Kong View Bar and Restaurant, 183 Luang Prabang Rd (Riverside. With the ongoing construction of the flood management levee and river park in Vientiane, this restaurant offers the most optimal dining views of the Mekong. Thai owned, it features an extensive menu of what is best termed Thai-Lao fusion. Not incredibly exciting food, but good, although portions are on the small side. Also, the staff will invariably mess up your order. Keep a close eye on the bill, as well, as items tend to make it on there that you didn't order.
• Kop Kap. Closed Sunday. Thai food. A favourite among expats living nearby. Packed at lunch, the restaurant is known for its excellent Penang curry.
• Kua Lao. Authentic Lao food with a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Traditional Lao music and dance performances in the evening. Expensive by Lao standards with main dishes from US$6-12 and set meals at US$15.
• Moon the Night Restaurant, QQuai Fa Ngum. A very pleasant spot to eat excellent Lao food. A large place, an extensive menu, competent and friendly service. Background music not too loud. A meal of 6 to 8 dishes for 4 people costs US$15-20 including drinks.
• Phonethip Coca Suki Restaurant. Part of a chain that also has restaurants in Thailand and Indonesia. Good Lao, Thai, Chinese, and Western food. Reasonable prices and good, attentive service. Very popular at lunchtime with office workers and students.
• The Spirit House. On that tree-shaded part of the river promenade that has not yet been upgraded to Lao-style sterile banality like the stretch downriver. It is about 0.3 km upstream from the end of the paved portion of the road. An excellent cocktail bar, it also offers a full breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu with competent and friendly service. Every evening there is 25% off all cocktails and a view of the sun setting on the Mekong. Watch the servers jump the puddles in the rainy season when you've chosen to sit outside on the terrace across the potholed road.
• Sticky Fingers. High quality Western-style food at reasonable prices. They have won a national award for their grasshopper/cricket tacos. Also offer a wide selection of vegetarian options. There's happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights, with half price cocktails. Open for breakfast and lunch on weekends only. Free Wi-Fi. Hangout for expats and NGO volunteers.
• Swedish Pizza & Baking House, +856 21 5705. 07:00-21:00. Huge selection of excellent pizzas for around 45,000 kip. The mocha shakes are particularly tasty. Also has a wide variety of fresh baked breads, pastries and cakes.
• La Terrasse. Closed Sundays. Popular with expats and tourists alike. It is one of the best French restaurants in Vientiane. Very good pizzas and excellent tender steaks for around US$5). Set three-course lunch is US$5.50, main dishes up to US$10..
• Via Via. Excellent wood-fired Italian style pizza and homemade pastas priced from US$4. Good selection of Belgian beers.
• Osaka, Nokeokoummane street, +856-21-213-352. 08:00-20:00. Japanese restaurant. Well located. Incredibility large offer of Japanese food (sushi, sashimi, miso soup, gyoza, tempura, teriyaki, soba, udon, ramen, oden, curry, takoyaki, okonomiyaki, tempura ice-cream) and drinks (green tea, cream soda, sake, Asashi beers, plum wine, shōchū ...) Every item on the menu comes written in English, along with its picture (& price). Many item pictures can as well be seen, with a colored A4 page for each, on the walls. All of this making it so easy to know what's on offer, and order with confidence. Owned & managed by a friendly Japanese citizen and his Lao wife, who live in the premises with their teenage kids. Quiet, clean, air conditioned.
• Xang Khoo, Pangkham road (Right between Namphoo fountain & Lao Plaza Hotel, +856-20-59-59-82-90. 08:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Crêperie - Lao French Bistrot. Owned by a friendly French citizen who speaks great English. Staff can as well communicate in English. Mix of Western (mainly French) food with Asian (mainly Lao). Galettes (French buckwheat pancakes) are their signature food and are gluten free (starting at 45,000 kip; they also have pizza, salads, soups. Different deserts such as crepes indeed. Drinks: French wine (for 30,000 kip), beer, tea, coffee. In addition, "Menu of the day" offers everyday a different meal that's not on the main menu, coming along a salad and as well a desert or coffee; 45,000 kip. Every item on the menu can be ordered any time during the opening hours. 2 rooms including one with terrace. Relax atmosphere with jazz music in the background.
• Papillon, François N'gin (Right by Mixay Temple, +856-21-55415921. 11:30-14:00, 18:00-22:00. French restaurant owned and managed by an experienced French cook, who used to be the Western French cook at Novotel. Speaks English, and so does his staff. Features traditional food and chef specials, such as andouillettes, rognons blancs (mutton testicles) and tripes à la mode de Caen. There's a 3-course "Menu of the day" in addition to the main menu, for 45,000-65,000 kip. Drinks include French wine. This is a good value.

Banneton Café. Croissants and pastries, simple lunches and excellent baguettes. Tasty, not just something to chew. Their coffee is among the best in Vientiane, on a par with that at JoMa.

Benoni Cafe. 10:00-17:00. Offers a wide range of reasonably priced Asian and European dishes. The owners are Lao, but speak fluent English, French and German. Daily specials and home roasted coffee beans, the basis for one of the best coffees in town. Busy at lunchtime, discounts after 14:00.

Chokdee Café Restaurant & Belgian Beer Bar, Quai Fa Gnum (Right by "Chinese Temple", +856-21-26-38-47. 10:00-23:30. Restaurant & beer bar, owned by a friendly Belgian citizen who speaks a good English and so does the staff. Their signature meal, which is the Belgium national one, is mussels & fries, with different flavors to choose from, starting at 95,000 kip (US$11). Some finger food such as mini cheese burgers (35,000 kip). Famous for its beers too, including trappist ones, with around 100 different crafted bottled beers to choose from, plus a dozen on tap. As Belgium is also famous for its comic books, the place is decorated accordingly, with statues & paintings of Tintin and alikes... cosy atmosphere.

Dai Japanese restaurant, Setthatirath road, +856-21-255-266. M-Sa 11:00-14:00 & 17:00-22:30; Su 17:00-22:30. Japanese restaurant with a Japanese owner and chef, Takashi, who is friendly and speaks an excellent English. Very large selection (sushi, sashimi, miso soup, gyoza, tempura, teriyaki, soba, udon, ramen, curry, taiyaki) and drinks (Asashi beers, sake, potato schochu, rice shochu, shochu sour [which can be confused with fruit juice — watch out if you don't drink alcohol]). Japanese TV on to feel even more like home for Japanese people.

Dinner Cruises. Two different companies, on boats moored opposite Wat Chan and one 300 metres upriver. Not very impressive, neither the boat trip (1 hour, departure around 19:00, 1 km upstream then 2 downstream and back, only when the water level is high enough) nor the food. Very relaxing. This Lao maritime experience will cost you only slightly more than the same meal in one of the beer gardens on the riverbank.

Full Moon Café. Nice interior with comfortable seating arrangements and relaxed atmosphere. Asian/European fusion cuisine. Friendly but unfocused staff and reasonable prices. Manager named Khamfanh speaks good English and can help with orders or information about Laos. Free book exchange. Free Wi-Fi.

Khao Nieow. Meat offered at two levels of quality: Lao beef at around US$4-5; New Zealand lamb and beef at about US$8 and above. To be tried on a cool evening, the fondue bourguignon at US$26 for two, a surprise in a place whose name means "sticky rice". Excellent cheese fondue at US$28 for two. Not something for the hottest months of the year, but nice around year's end when temperatures drop. Set three-course meals at US$4.50.

Kong View Bar and Restaurant, 183 Luang Prabang Rd (Riverside. With the ongoing construction of the flood management levee and river park in Vientiane, this restaurant offers the most optimal dining views of the Mekong. Thai owned, it features an extensive menu of what is best termed Thai-Lao fusion. Not incredibly exciting food, but good, although portions are on the small side. Also, the staff will invariably mess up your order. Keep a close eye on the bill, as well, as items tend to make it on there that you didn't order.

Kop Kap. Closed Sunday. Thai food. A favourite among expats living nearby. Packed at lunch, the restaurant is known for its excellent Penang curry.

Kua Lao. Authentic Lao food with a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Traditional Lao music and dance performances in the evening. Expensive by Lao standards with main dishes from US$6-12 and set meals at US$15.

Moon the Night Restaurant, QQuai Fa Ngum. A very pleasant spot to eat excellent Lao food. A large place, an extensive menu, competent and friendly service. Background music not too loud. A meal of 6 to 8 dishes for 4 people costs US$15-20 including drinks.

Phonethip Coca Suki Restaurant. Part of a chain that also has restaurants in Thailand and Indonesia. Good Lao, Thai, Chinese, and Western food. Reasonable prices and good, attentive service. Very popular at lunchtime with office workers and students.

The Spirit House. On that tree-shaded part of the river promenade that has not yet been upgraded to Lao-style sterile banality like the stretch downriver. It is about 0.3 km upstream from the end of the paved portion of the road. An excellent cocktail bar, it also offers a full breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu with competent and friendly service. Every evening there is 25% off all cocktails and a view of the sun setting on the Mekong. Watch the servers jump the puddles in the rainy season when you've chosen to sit outside on the terrace across the potholed road.

Sticky Fingers. High quality Western-style food at reasonable prices. They have won a national award for their grasshopper/cricket tacos. Also offer a wide selection of vegetarian options. There's happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights, with half price cocktails. Open for breakfast and lunch on weekends only. Free Wi-Fi. Hangout for expats and NGO volunteers.

Swedish Pizza & Baking House, +856 21 5705. 07:00-21:00. Huge selection of excellent pizzas for around 45,000 kip. The mocha shakes are particularly tasty. Also has a wide variety of fresh baked breads, pastries and cakes.

La Terrasse. Closed Sundays. Popular with expats and tourists alike. It is one of the best French restaurants in Vientiane. Very good pizzas and excellent tender steaks for around US$5). Set three-course lunch is US$5.50, main dishes up to US$10..

Via Via. Excellent wood-fired Italian style pizza and homemade pastas priced from US$4. Good selection of Belgian beers.

Osaka, Nokeokoummane street, +856-21-213-352. 08:00-20:00. Japanese restaurant. Well located. Incredibility large offer of Japanese food (sushi, sashimi, miso soup, gyoza, tempura, teriyaki, soba, udon, ramen, oden, curry, takoyaki, okonomiyaki, tempura ice-cream) and drinks (green tea, cream soda, sake, Asashi beers, plum wine, shōchū ...) Every item on the menu comes written in English, along with its picture (& price). Many item pictures can as well be seen, with a colored A4 page for each, on the walls. All of this making it so easy to know what's on offer, and order with confidence. Owned & managed by a friendly Japanese citizen and his Lao wife, who live in the premises with their teenage kids. Quiet, clean, air conditioned.

Xang Khoo, Pangkham road (Right between Namphoo fountain & Lao Plaza Hotel, +856-20-59-59-82-90. 08:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Crêperie - Lao French Bistrot. Owned by a friendly French citizen who speaks great English. Staff can as well communicate in English. Mix of Western (mainly French) food with Asian (mainly Lao). Galettes (French buckwheat pancakes) are their signature food and are gluten free (starting at 45,000 kip; they also have pizza, salads, soups. Different deserts such as crepes indeed. Drinks: French wine (for 30,000 kip), beer, tea, coffee. In addition, "Menu of the day" offers everyday a different meal that's not on the main menu, coming along a salad and as well a desert or coffee; 45,000 kip. Every item on the menu can be ordered any time during the opening hours. 2 rooms including one with terrace. Relax atmosphere with jazz music in the background.

Papillon, François N'gin (Right by Mixay Temple, +856-21-55415921. 11:30-14:00, 18:00-22:00. French restaurant owned and managed by an experienced French cook, who used to be the Western French cook at Novotel. Speaks English, and so does his staff. Features traditional food and chef specials, such as andouillettes, rognons blancs (mutton testicles) and tripes à la mode de Caen. There's a 3-course "Menu of the day" in addition to the main menu, for 45,000-65,000 kip. Drinks include French wine. This is a good value.

• L'Adresse de Tinay, +856 20 56913434. One of the best French restaurants in town. Very inventive and especially tasty cuisine cooked up by Tinay, a French chef trained in Michelin starred restaurants in France. Delphine, Tinay's wife, will make you feel at home from the moment you step in. Mains start at US$10 with set menus for less than US$20. Highly recommended.
• Balkan House, Thongsangnang Village (From Thongkhankham Market second traffic light left, than first street right opposite Nakhomesack Hotel, down the street 300 m on the left, +856 20 7709729. Tu-Su 08:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Traditional Yugoslav and Mediterranean homemade dishes, prepared by Montenegrin chef. From US$5-15.
• La Scala Italian Restaurant, Lak 3, Thadeua Rd. Excellent Italian food. Romantic setting in a beautifully maintained colonial home. Offers a lunchtime buffet Monday-Friday. Tasty Neapolitan-style pizzas. Has an extensive wine list, and pasta mains are priced from US$8.

L'Adresse de Tinay, +856 20 56913434. One of the best French restaurants in town. Very inventive and especially tasty cuisine cooked up by Tinay, a French chef trained in Michelin starred restaurants in France. Delphine, Tinay's wife, will make you feel at home from the moment you step in. Mains start at US$10 with set menus for less than US$20. Highly recommended.

Balkan House, Thongsangnang Village (From Thongkhankham Market second traffic light left, than first street right opposite Nakhomesack Hotel, down the street 300 m on the left, +856 20 7709729. Tu-Su 08:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Traditional Yugoslav and Mediterranean homemade dishes, prepared by Montenegrin chef. From US$5-15.

La Scala Italian Restaurant, Lak 3, Thadeua Rd. Excellent Italian food. Romantic setting in a beautifully maintained colonial home. Offers a lunchtime buffet Monday-Friday. Tasty Neapolitan-style pizzas. Has an extensive wine list, and pasta mains are priced from US$8.

The massive influx of Chinese investment into Laos may be controversial, but one area in which it has had an undeniably positive impact is the vastly increased quality of Chinese restaurants in Vientiane. No reason anymore to settle for the ghastly Hong Kong Restaurant or uninspired banquet fare in the big hotels. Vientiane has a growing selection of authentic regional Chinese cuisine, particularly from the southwest.

• Classic Lao Di Fang, +856 20 54011387, +856 20 56199938. Chinese vegetarian. The owner is Taiwanese, so this place seemed promising, as vegetarian cuisine is very popular in Taiwan, and done to an extraordinary standard. Unfortunately, that level of quality did not follow this owner into Laos. The food is lacklustre, and the management of the restaurant appears to suffer from neglect, possibly because the owner is rarely in Laos.
• Dihao Hunan Restaurant, +856 21 262799. Spicy Hunan food from China. Hunanese-owned and operated (the Hunan Chamber of Commerce is on the 4th floor). Staff speak Chinese and Lao, and the menu is same, but every dish has its own photo. Order anything containing chilies, and you can't go wrong.
• Fu Man Lou, +856 21 262249. This has two locations. The one on the road to the airport is the best by far. It is the most established of the better Chinese restaurants in the city, and the Chinese diplomats posted to Laos often dine here. Food selection is multi-regional, but the Sichuan dishes are well done.
• Hong Kong Restaurant. Lackadaisical Cantonese dishes (US$2-9) and a small selection of dim sum (US$1 per plate). There have been reports of them padding the bill. Check the bill carefully before paying, which is something you should do everywhere: in a country where they use a calculator to subtract 7 from 10 it comes as no surprise that their counting of beers consumed is not always accurate, although to be fair the mistakes are not always to the disadvantage of the customer.
• Jiu-Jiu Restaurant, +856 21 213059, +856 20 55333419 (mobile). An unheralded gem, this restaurant offers fantastic southwestern Chinese cuisine. The chef hails from Qujing 曲靖 in Yunnan Province. The food is best described as Yunnan-Sichuan fusion. Helps if you know Chinese, but the staff can speak Lao as well. Menu contains plenty of photographs, so if all else fails, just point.
• Restaurant Chengdu. The owner/manager claims the chef is from Chengdu, but the heavily Manchurian-influenced food from the kitchen clearly puts the lie to that claim.

Classic Lao Di Fang, +856 20 54011387, +856 20 56199938. Chinese vegetarian. The owner is Taiwanese, so this place seemed promising, as vegetarian cuisine is very popular in Taiwan, and done to an extraordinary standard. Unfortunately, that level of quality did not follow this owner into Laos. The food is lacklustre, and the management of the restaurant appears to suffer from neglect, possibly because the owner is rarely in Laos.

Dihao Hunan Restaurant, +856 21 262799. Spicy Hunan food from China. Hunanese-owned and operated (the Hunan Chamber of Commerce is on the 4th floor). Staff speak Chinese and Lao, and the menu is same, but every dish has its own photo. Order anything containing chilies, and you can't go wrong.

Fu Man Lou, +856 21 262249. This has two locations. The one on the road to the airport is the best by far. It is the most established of the better Chinese restaurants in the city, and the Chinese diplomats posted to Laos often dine here. Food selection is multi-regional, but the Sichuan dishes are well done.

Hong Kong Restaurant. Lackadaisical Cantonese dishes (US$2-9) and a small selection of dim sum (US$1 per plate). There have been reports of them padding the bill. Check the bill carefully before paying, which is something you should do everywhere: in a country where they use a calculator to subtract 7 from 10 it comes as no surprise that their counting of beers consumed is not always accurate, although to be fair the mistakes are not always to the disadvantage of the customer.

Jiu-Jiu Restaurant, +856 21 213059, +856 20 55333419 (mobile). An unheralded gem, this restaurant offers fantastic southwestern Chinese cuisine. The chef hails from Qujing 曲靖 in Yunnan Province. The food is best described as Yunnan-Sichuan fusion. Helps if you know Chinese, but the staff can speak Lao as well. Menu contains plenty of photographs, so if all else fails, just point.

Restaurant Chengdu. The owner/manager claims the chef is from Chengdu, but the heavily Manchurian-influenced food from the kitchen clearly puts the lie to that claim.

• Fathima. A Malaysian-Indian restaurant. Numerous vegetarian options for 6,000-50,000 kip. Friendly staff and excellent service. Dish quality is extremely variable even for several exact-same dishes ordered on the same day. A bit of a pot-luck option.
• Happy Golden Age. A reasonably-priced vegan restaurant. Seems to be Vietnamese-centric with assortment of mock meats and dishes. Staff nice, place clean, they speak some English. 15,000 kip for noodle soup.
• Nirvana, +856 21 217385. M-Sa. Delicious Lao traditional vegetarian/vegan food with some Western-style options. Nice change from the mostly Chinese-style offerings of other buffets. High diversity and rotation rates. In the evening, ask for the menu (they have two: one basic with pictures and another, much larger). 20,000 kip buffet at lunch hours. Family-managed, very clean. Some English spoken.
• Vegan Food Stall at Sao Market Food Court. Buffet plates, excellent spring rolls and noodle soups available. All plates at 10,000 kip each.
• Vegan Restaurant at Khuadin Market. 10:00-14:30. Offers a lunch time buffet serving Laotian vegan food. 20,000 kip.

Fathima. A Malaysian-Indian restaurant. Numerous vegetarian options for 6,000-50,000 kip. Friendly staff and excellent service. Dish quality is extremely variable even for several exact-same dishes ordered on the same day. A bit of a pot-luck option.

Happy Golden Age. A reasonably-priced vegan restaurant. Seems to be Vietnamese-centric with assortment of mock meats and dishes. Staff nice, place clean, they speak some English. 15,000 kip for noodle soup.

Nirvana, +856 21 217385. M-Sa. Delicious Lao traditional vegetarian/vegan food with some Western-style options. Nice change from the mostly Chinese-style offerings of other buffets. High diversity and rotation rates. In the evening, ask for the menu (they have two: one basic with pictures and another, much larger). 20,000 kip buffet at lunch hours. Family-managed, very clean. Some English spoken.

Vegan Food Stall at Sao Market Food Court. Buffet plates, excellent spring rolls and noodle soups available. All plates at 10,000 kip each.

Vegan Restaurant at Khuadin Market. 10:00-14:30. Offers a lunch time buffet serving Laotian vegan food. 20,000 kip.

Vientiane has a few bars and clubs, but there's no shortage of places for a quiet Beerlao. In particular, the Mekong shoreline has long been the epicentre of low-key nightlife, although a massive construction project to build a flood management levee system and a riverside park has seen most of the bamboo-and-thatch beer gardens here disappear.

• CCC Bar. The second of two gay bars in downtown Vientiane, next to Silapa Restaurant and diagonally across from Vat Inpeng. Friendly atmosphere and staff with good dance beats. Mixed drinks average around 30,000 kip, with happy hour from 19:00-21:00. Second floor has a pool table.
• Champa. Vietnamese-owned "super" club. Place to go for loud techno music.
• Deja Vu. M-Sa. A very classy and cosy bar, owned and run by Japanese-speaking Lao owner. Great drinks. Approximately 50,000 kip per cocktail.
• Don Chan Palace Hotel Nightclub. Till 04:00 weekends. Everything is supposed to close down before midnight, before the start of the unofficial curfew, although clubs generally stay open until 01:00-01:.30. The most notable exception is this extremely popular spot which is open until 04:00 weekends. It's an after-hours club popular with working girls among others.
• GQ Bar and Massage. Till ~01:00. One of two gay bars in central Vientiane. Friendly staff, cheap drinks and occasional cabaret shows around 23:00.
• Jazzy-Brick. A classy and expensive bar. The sign out front states "no shorts, no flip-flops allowed".
• Khop Chai Deu. The name means "thank you very much". Popular with tourists, expats and Lao hi-so types. OK food, mid-range prices, large selection of Western, Thai and classic Lao dishes. Great place to drink beer in the centre of town.
• Marina. Happening all nights of the week. Crowd changes from beginning, midweek, to weekend. Bowling alley and karaoke next door, same owner. Diverse crowd and music.
• Martini Lounge. 18:00-past 23:30 curfew. Movies shown M-W at 20:00. Thursdays are Salsa nights and most Fridays a DJ is spinning. Possibly plays the most eclectic music in Vientiane.
• Samlo Pub. Once this was one of only a few bars in town, and was packed every evening, especially between 23:00-02:00 after other bars around town are closed. Perhaps quieter now that there is more competition. Has a pool table and shows sports, but the background music often drowns the TV commentary. Drinkers from Bor Pen Nyang often come here when it closes, then move on again to the Don Chan Palace nightclub once Samlo closes.
• Wind West. Different cover bands play throughout the night. Maybe the only country-western bar in Laos. A sit and listen to live band place, not a dance club.
• Highland Bar. Nice drinking hole and sports bar by the river, good spot for viewing sunsets.

CCC Bar. The second of two gay bars in downtown Vientiane, next to Silapa Restaurant and diagonally across from Vat Inpeng. Friendly atmosphere and staff with good dance beats. Mixed drinks average around 30,000 kip, with happy hour from 19:00-21:00. Second floor has a pool table.

Champa. Vietnamese-owned "super" club. Place to go for loud techno music.

Deja Vu. M-Sa. A very classy and cosy bar, owned and run by Japanese-speaking Lao owner. Great drinks. Approximately 50,000 kip per cocktail.

Don Chan Palace Hotel Nightclub. Till 04:00 weekends. Everything is supposed to close down before midnight, before the start of the unofficial curfew, although clubs generally stay open until 01:00-01:.30. The most notable exception is this extremely popular spot which is open until 04:00 weekends. It's an after-hours club popular with working girls among others.

GQ Bar and Massage. Till ~01:00. One of two gay bars in central Vientiane. Friendly staff, cheap drinks and occasional cabaret shows around 23:00.

Jazzy-Brick. A classy and expensive bar. The sign out front states "no shorts, no flip-flops allowed".

Khop Chai Deu. The name means "thank you very much". Popular with tourists, expats and Lao hi-so types. OK food, mid-range prices, large selection of Western, Thai and classic Lao dishes. Great place to drink beer in the centre of town.

Marina. Happening all nights of the week. Crowd changes from beginning, midweek, to weekend. Bowling alley and karaoke next door, same owner. Diverse crowd and music.

Martini Lounge. 18:00-past 23:30 curfew. Movies shown M-W at 20:00. Thursdays are Salsa nights and most Fridays a DJ is spinning. Possibly plays the most eclectic music in Vientiane.

Samlo Pub. Once this was one of only a few bars in town, and was packed every evening, especially between 23:00-02:00 after other bars around town are closed. Perhaps quieter now that there is more competition. Has a pool table and shows sports, but the background music often drowns the TV commentary. Drinkers from Bor Pen Nyang often come here when it closes, then move on again to the Don Chan Palace nightclub once Samlo closes.

Wind West. Different cover bands play throughout the night. Maybe the only country-western bar in Laos. A sit and listen to live band place, not a dance club.

Highland Bar. Nice drinking hole and sports bar by the river, good spot for viewing sunsets.

Internet cafes are ubiquitous in Vientiane, particularly along Samsenthai Rd and the east end of Setthathirat Rd. The going rate is 100 kip per minute, usually charged in 10-minute increments. Charged by the hour from 5,000-6,000 kip. Many hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars etc have free wifi but it's often quite slow.

• FastestNet, Samsenthai Rd (Between Lao Plaza and Asian Pavilion. Lives up to its name fairly well. No firewalls or program-install restrictions. 100 kip per minute.
• Lao National Library.

FastestNet, Samsenthai Rd (Between Lao Plaza and Asian Pavilion. Lives up to its name fairly well. No firewalls or program-install restrictions. 100 kip per minute.

Lao National Library.

• National Post Office, Saylom.

National Post Office, Saylom.

Laos network SIM cards such as Unitel, can be bought at the airport, together with credit and data package if required. Thai SIM cards will work here if you are near and have a clear view across the Mekong river to Thailand on the other side.

They can be vicious, whether they are strays or just owned by irresponsible people who don't bother closing their gates. You don't need to be out in the suburbs to be attacked. Avoid anything but well lighted, busy streets at night.

If you are bitten, see a doctor. Even if you have had a rabies vaccination before your trip you will still need a booster jab.

• Sengdara Gym. Most popular gym among the expat community. Expressionless reception staff and many under-employed young male staff standing around staring at you, but excellent equipment and a nice pool. Be especially watchful at the pool with children or the infirm. Daily rates, 30,000-50,000 kip.
• Vientiane Gym, 15 Savang St (Near the Russian Circus. For the more adventurous/frugal gym-goer. Daily rates, 5,000-10,000 kip..

Sengdara Gym. Most popular gym among the expat community. Expressionless reception staff and many under-employed young male staff standing around staring at you, but excellent equipment and a nice pool. Be especially watchful at the pool with children or the infirm. Daily rates, 30,000-50,000 kip.

Vientiane Gym, 15 Savang St (Near the Russian Circus. For the more adventurous/frugal gym-goer. Daily rates, 5,000-10,000 kip..

Vientiane's hospitals are a far cry from those in the West or even in Thailand. Mahosot and Setthathirat Hospitals can treat common conditions but for anything more serious you're better off heading to Thailand where there are good private hospitals with European- and US-trained doctors.

For emergency dental treatment it's also best to go to Thailand; in Vientiane's dental clinics, they seem to resort to tooth extractions a bit too easily.

Mahosot Hospital is on the river (go to their "International Clinic" where you pay more and get more personal service, but from the same doctors who work in the hospital itself). Setthathirat Hospital is away from city centre on the T4 Road.

• Australian Embassy Clinic, +856 21 353840. M-F 08:30-12:30, 13:30-17:00. Provides limited general practice services with a small pharmacy and pathology department. Although the clinic is primarily for diplomatic staff and their families, Australian citizens may access its services on a fee for service basis. Reciprocal arrangements with other embassies mean that citizens from certain other countries may also access the service. There is no after-hours service. US$75 per consultation.
• Centre Medical de l’Ambassade de France, +856 21 214150. With the support of the French Embassy in Vientiane, the opened its doors to the foreign community in Laos in Apr 2007. The medical centre provides primary health care, 24 hours a day 7 days a week, along with paramedical services, including dental care, physiotherapy, speech therapy, and psychotherapy, to expatriates and tourists in Vientiane. (English-speaking.) US$36 per consultation.

Australian Embassy Clinic, +856 21 353840. M-F 08:30-12:30, 13:30-17:00. Provides limited general practice services with a small pharmacy and pathology department. Although the clinic is primarily for diplomatic staff and their families, Australian citizens may access its services on a fee for service basis. Reciprocal arrangements with other embassies mean that citizens from certain other countries may also access the service. There is no after-hours service. US$75 per consultation.

Centre Medical de l’Ambassade de France, +856 21 214150. With the support of the French Embassy in Vientiane, the opened its doors to the foreign community in Laos in Apr 2007. The medical centre provides primary health care, 24 hours a day 7 days a week, along with paramedical services, including dental care, physiotherapy, speech therapy, and psychotherapy, to expatriates and tourists in Vientiane. (English-speaking.) US$36 per consultation.

• Ambulance services to Thailand, +856 21 351156. The ambulances of Wattana Hospital can cross the border to pick up patients in Vientiane. They can also take them to Aek Udon Hospital. Ambulances of Setthathirat Hospital can also cross the border. The bridge is open from 06:00-22:00. Outside these hours the gates are only opened for emergencies upon telephone request from the hospital.
• Aek Udon International Hospital, +66-42-342555 (from Laos). In Udon Thani. Has more facilities.
• Wattana Hospital, +66-42-465201 (from Laos). In Nong Khai, good for treating simpler cases.

Ambulance services to Thailand, +856 21 351156. The ambulances of Wattana Hospital can cross the border to pick up patients in Vientiane. They can also take them to Aek Udon Hospital. Ambulances of Setthathirat Hospital can also cross the border. The bridge is open from 06:00-22:00. Outside these hours the gates are only opened for emergencies upon telephone request from the hospital.

Aek Udon International Hospital, +66-42-342555 (from Laos). In Udon Thani. Has more facilities.

Wattana Hospital, +66-42-465201 (from Laos). In Nong Khai, good for treating simpler cases.

Vientiane is free from malaria, but dengue is a real threat, especially during the rainy season. Take the necessary precautions against mosquito bites by wearing DEET repellent, available to purchase at any minimart. It is common practice to request a mosquito coil at dusk at outdoor venues.

Taxi drivers will offer ladies as partners for single men as part of their all-out sales pitch. These drivers may be Thais (to a non-expert eye they look and sound the same) since they operate from unmarked vans and they always mistakenly quote prices in baht, not in kip, as if they were in Thailand.

Don't follow the example of the locals who will bathe in anything that looks like water. There is a real risk of picking up parasites. Swimming in public pools is okay. There is one-of-a-kind garden setting on Sok Paluang Rd, and another, not in such a nice setting, on the road by the stadium.

Hotel pools are also safe. Some hotels with pools that you can use for a fee if you are not staying there: Mercure, Lao Plaza, Don Chan Palace, Settha Palace, and there are more. Recommended: the Sunday brunch (11:00-15:00) in the Mercure at 130,000 kip (plus 10% service charge and 10% taxes) including use of pool and fitness centre.

The city's waterworks are called Nam PaPaa, which some may joke means "water without fishes". Yes, the fish have been removed but not everything else. Don't drink the tap water, no matter how long it's been boiled (it tastes very industrial). Stick to the bottled water, available everywhere, though even that varies in quality. Some people have a preference for clear plastic bottles.

Vientiane is a fairly safe city in terms of crime. However, bag snatching from guests sitting in front of cafes is becoming more common. Bags in the baskets of (rented) bicycles or mopeds, even when moving along, are also far from safe. Do not leave a bag in an accessible position. If your bag is snatched, immediately start shouting: the perpetrators rely on tourists reacting by silently trying to chase them without alerting the numerous police boxes.

Probably a bigger hazard than crime is the missing sewer covers on pavements. Additionally, there are many loose pavement stones that will tip if stepped on. Tread carefully and exercise extreme caution at night.

To prevent the development of a sex trade industry, so prevalent in neighbouring Thailand, Laotian law bans foreigners from having sexual relations with Laotian nationals other than their spouses. This law is enforced by the village chief and, given the fines, the incentive to enforce is high. The penalty is US$500 for the first offence, though as the text of the law is not available, the fine could be much more (the US Embassy says US$5,000); the foreign offender can face prison or deportation and the Lao woman prison. A Laotian prison is the last place anyone would want to be. If you take a girl to your room and she robs you, this law makes it almost impossible to obtain police assistance. Foreign women should note that, while rare, Laotian police enforce this law on both sexes. Bartenders are happy to provide stories of angry tourists confronting girls at the same bars they picked up the night before. Most hotels do not allow foreigners to take girls to their rooms as it is prohibited.

Homosexuality is legal and there is a fairly open gay scene in Vientiane. Since the Pathet Lao took over in 1975, the Lao government has been completely silent on LGBT rights and homosexuality. Female homosexuality is relatively frowned upon for Lao women while male homosexuality is widely tolerated. A growing acceptance of homosexuality in Laos continues. Gay and lesbian travellers should be aware though that some hotels will impose the same restrictions as for straight people and not allow a Lao national into your room.

Illegal drugs are a problem throughout Laos and certainly so in Vientiane where even very young children can try to peddle "happy pills" to tourists. After declaring victory in the "war on opium" in 2005, it is not so much opium and heroin these days as methamphetamine that incurs the wrath of the authorities. Penalties are extremely harsh. Be extremely cautious of tuk-tuk drivers offering to sell you drugs, as they often collaborate with the police or police impersonators to "shake down" unsuspecting tourists.

As of 2006, the Lao PDR criminal code for drug trafficking or possession carries the following penalties:

• Heroin: up to life imprisonment and 10 million kip fine; death penalty for possession of over 500 g.
• Chemical substance: up to 20 years imprisonment, 50 million kip fine.
• Amphetamines: up to 5 years imprisonment and 7 million kip fine.
• Opium: up to 15 years imprisonment and 30 million kip fine; death penalty for possession of quantities over 3 kg.
• Marijuana: up to 10 years imprisonment and 20 million kip fine; death penalty for quantities over 10 kg.

Long trousers and sleeves are recommended when visiting a temple or official offices. Foreign women adopting the traditional long sarong (siin) are appreciated.

• Australia Australia, Thadeua Rd (Riverside. Four km south of centre.
• China China, Wat Nak Rd, Sisattanak (Motorbike, tuk-tuk (~15, 000 kip from Centre 1 Way), jumbo, small white bus from capital bus station to engineering faculty (2,000 kip) + 5-min walk, +856 21 315100. M-F 09:00-11:30. To apply for Chinese visa, pay only in U.S. dollars, valid for 90 days, duration of stay 1 month maximum, but extendable. Standard fee is US$32, with USA citizens charged US$140, in 4 days, express extra fee US$30/20 in 1 day or 2-3 days. EU nationals need to provide evidence of a return air ticket and a hotel booking.
• Thailand Thailand, Kaysone Phomvihane Ave, Xaysettha, +856 21 214581. M-F 08:30-12:00 & 13:00-16:30.

  Consular Office, 15 Ban Ponesinuan, Bourichane Rd (Near Lao-Singapore Business College, +856 21 453916, +856 21 415337. You can apply for visa from 08:30-11:30 and pick up your passport the next day from 13:30-15:30. Visa fee is 800 baht for transit visitor, 1,000 baht for tourist visitor and 2,000 baht for non-immigrant (5,000 baht for multiple entries.) The visa fee must be paid in cash and in Thai baht only.

• United States United States, Ban Somvang Thai, Thadeua Road, Km 9, Hatsayfong district, +856 21 48-7000.
• Vietnam Vietnam, No 85, 23 Singha Rd, Ban Phonxay, Saysettha District (Go to Patuxai and continue road from town centre, +856 21 990986. M 10:00-11:30 & 13:30-16:30, Tu-F, 08:30-11:30 & 13:30-16:30. To get visa, pay only in U.S dollars. need to complete a form, 1 photo, next day delivery US$50, 2 days delivery US$45, 1 month duration, 1 day wait for visa.

Australia Australia, Thadeua Rd (Riverside. Four km south of centre.

China China, Wat Nak Rd, Sisattanak (Motorbike, tuk-tuk (~15, 000 kip from Centre 1 Way), jumbo, small white bus from capital bus station to engineering faculty (2,000 kip) + 5-min walk, +856 21 315100. M-F 09:00-11:30. To apply for Chinese visa, pay only in U.S. dollars, valid for 90 days, duration of stay 1 month maximum, but extendable. Standard fee is US$32, with USA citizens charged US$140, in 4 days, express extra fee US$30/20 in 1 day or 2-3 days. EU nationals need to provide evidence of a return air ticket and a hotel booking.

Thailand Thailand, Kaysone Phomvihane Ave, Xaysettha, +856 21 214581. M-F 08:30-12:00 & 13:00-16:30.

Consular Office, 15 Ban Ponesinuan, Bourichane Rd (Near Lao-Singapore Business College, +856 21 453916, +856 21 415337. You can apply for visa from 08:30-11:30 and pick up your passport the next day from 13:30-15:30. Visa fee is 800 baht for transit visitor, 1,000 baht for tourist visitor and 2,000 baht for non-immigrant (5,000 baht for multiple entries.) The visa fee must be paid in cash and in Thai baht only.

United States United States, Ban Somvang Thai, Thadeua Road, Km 9, Hatsayfong district, +856 21 48-7000.

Vietnam Vietnam, No 85, 23 Singha Rd, Ban Phonxay, Saysettha District (Go to Patuxai and continue road from town centre, +856 21 990986. M 10:00-11:30 & 13:30-16:30, Tu-F, 08:30-11:30 & 13:30-16:30. To get visa, pay only in U.S dollars. need to complete a form, 1 photo, next day delivery US$50, 2 days delivery US$45, 1 month duration, 1 day wait for visa.

• Luang Prabang a supremely charming city in the north of the country.
• Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area for wonderful elephants and waterfalls and fresh highland scenery.
• Vang Vieng for a party atmosphere head three hours north to the beautiful town of Vang Vieng. Buses from Talat Sao cost 35,000 kip, but can get a little crowded.
• Nong Khai is a very pleasant riverside Thai town just across the border on the other end of the Friendship Bridge. Well worth a visit if you are over-landing into Thailand.