Siem Reap

The town of Siem Reap (សៀមរាប), in northern Cambodia, is the primary access point for the Angkor Archaeological Park, just north of the city.

The name Siem Reap literally means "Siam Defeated". These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to the Angkor Archaeological Park. This once quaint village has become the largest boom town and construction site in Cambodia. It is quite laid-back and a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. It is a nice compromise between observing Cambodian life and enjoying the amenities of modern services and entertainment, thanks to a large expatriate community. Since Siem Reap is a major tourist destination, prices in some instances are higher than elsewhere in Cambodia. Expect to receive almost constant offers for motodop and tuk-tuk rides, along with everything else which drivers may be able to offer to you.

Be sure to pick up your free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide and the equally free and useful Siem Reap Pocket Guide from your hotel/guesthouse. It contains lots of info on Siem Reap and the Angkor Archaeological Park, including hotel/bar/restaurant/shop info, travel info, and maps. For the eco-sensitive tourist, check out Stay Another Day: Cambodia, a detailed guide with local spots that support the environment and community. Another address is the ConCERT tourist office, a local NGO committed to raising the standards of responsible tourism and eco-tourism activities and providing information on the causes and effects of poverty in Cambodia, volunteering opportunities and eco-tours.

Most people come to visit Angkor Archaeological Park, which is thoroughly covered in its own article. The town itself has some worthwhile attractions and a number of beautiful modern Buddhist temples.

• Angkor National Museum, 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd, +855 63 966 601. Daily, 08:30-18:00. Exhibits covering the history of the Angkor complex as well as Khmer culture and clothing using high tech displays and video screens. Some say the 1,000 Buddhas room is as impressive as it sounds. $12.
• Wat Bo, Samdech Tep Vong St and St 22 (east side of the river. Follow the road that continues from over Wat Bo Bridge. As one of the oldest temples it makes a nice contrast between the oldest and the glittering new ones, though the rough artwork wouldn't match the craftsmen of Angkor. The architecture of the ramshackle open air hall next to the main building blends French-style arches and balustrades with Thai-influenced Buddhist details. A forest of chedi surround the main hall, in between frangipani trees and some fine topiary.
• Wat Damnak. A landscaped temple with many stupas, a small decorative pool, and a school on the premises.
• Wat Preah Prom Rath, Pokambor Ave. The glittering modern temple grounds give few hints as to its 500 year history. Though the lotus-themed architecture seems to emulate temples from over the border, the front gate integrates Bayon-style heads and a scene in relief of the Buddha seated under a tree, while armies fire arrows on one side and others are eaten by crocodiles on the other side, that looks like it could have been taken directly from Angkorian mural. Legend is that the site was established around 1500 when a famous monk landed ashore on a piece of his sinking boat. The boat wood was carved into the oddly foreshortened reclining Buddha installed in a swimming pool-like pit behind the imposing, yet despondent looking, seated Buddha in the main hall. Perhaps mimicking the construction materials origins, the reclining Buddha has taken on a sunken slant at the feet end. A pair of small weather worn cannons on either side of the hall are of unknown origin but their style, an embossed crown-like seal and mysterious numbers suggest a European origin.
• Wat Thmei Temple & Stupa Memorial to the Killing Fields. A large Buddhist temple. In the grounds is a stupa with glass sides contains bones and skulls of victims of Pol Pot's army. Be wary of people purporting to be guides or asking for donations. Also, several of the photographs on the display boards are actually of the holocaust in Nazi Germany. Take this attraction with a pinch of salt. Free, donations welcome.

• Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre, Sanday Village (3 km before the Landmine Museum on the road to Banteay Srey temple, +855 97 852 7852. 09:00-1700. Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre is a community development project and tourist destination just down the road from the Landmine Museum and Banteay Srey temple. Revenue from admissions is used to pay families in remote villages who are farming butterflies for the exhibit. The project makes a real difference to the farmers' livelihoods and provides a wonderful experience for visitors as they can see spectacular local butterfly species flying close at hand in a beautiful tropical garden. $4 adults, $2 children under 12.

• Butterfly Paradise, Kantrak Village (5 km from Psar Chas Market on Butterfly Paradise Road, +855 12558768. 09:00-16:30 Sunday to Friday. A park with butterflies amongst many species of plants and flowers, with waterfalls and ponds. $10 Adult, $7 Child, $4 Khmer Adult, $2 Khmer child.
• Kampong Phluk Floating Village. This mangrove forest offers a much more authentic floating village experience than the one close to the Tonlé Sap ferry harbour. This fascinating village on stilts can be reached by tuk-tuk from Siem Reap. It takes about 1 hour to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level. Depending on where you buy your tour, your haggling techniques and your initiative to book a tuk-tuk and boat ride yourself the price varies between $7-60 per person for a round trip. Beware of scams. When you reach the school in the village, your tour guide will give you pack of exercise books and pencils as "a payment to village for visiting them". The queue of pupils will be longer than number of books you have. Immediately you receive next pack but then you will need to pay $9 for the second pack.

• Landmine Museum, +855 15 674 163. 07:30–17:30. This tiny museum was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and unexploded ordnance (UXO) lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, many of whom live on-site. This is a very worthwhile attraction that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of real Cambodia. $3.
• Phnom Bok. The highest hill in the area. Temple ruins similar to those found atop of Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakong can also be found on top of Phnom Bok. It lies 20 km to the north east of Siem Reap. Expect a tiring hike up the stairs. A guard may be able to show you around. Don't forget to check out the old howitzers from the civil war. Admission is free, no pass is needed for the Angkorian ruins.
• Phnom Krom. The hill which dominates the view, as you approach the floating village of Chong Kneas from Siem Reap. At the top, temple ruins similar to the other two hills can be found. This particular hill is popular for sunsets, as it can be viewed over the flooded plains during the wet season, and over incredibly vibrant rice fields in the dry season.
• War museum, +855 97 4578 666. 8am-5:30p.m.. Collection of old (mainly Russian) tanks, artillery, landmines, handguns etc. Also some history background about the Cambodian civil war is displayed. Worthwile for a 1-2 hour visit if interested in military. 5 $.

Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre, Sanday Village (3 km before the Landmine Museum on the road to Banteay Srey temple, +855 97 852 7852. 09:00-1700. Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre is a community development project and tourist destination just down the road from the Landmine Museum and Banteay Srey temple. Revenue from admissions is used to pay families in remote villages who are farming butterflies for the exhibit. The project makes a real difference to the farmers' livelihoods and provides a wonderful experience for visitors as they can see spectacular local butterfly species flying close at hand in a beautiful tropical garden. $4 adults, $2 children under 12.

Butterfly Paradise, Kantrak Village (5 km from Psar Chas Market on Butterfly Paradise Road, +855 12558768. 09:00-16:30 Sunday to Friday. A park with butterflies amongst many species of plants and flowers, with waterfalls and ponds. $10 Adult, $7 Child, $4 Khmer Adult, $2 Khmer child.

Kampong Phluk Floating Village. This mangrove forest offers a much more authentic floating village experience than the one close to the Tonlé Sap ferry harbour. This fascinating village on stilts can be reached by tuk-tuk from Siem Reap. It takes about 1 hour to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level. Depending on where you buy your tour, your haggling techniques and your initiative to book a tuk-tuk and boat ride yourself the price varies between $7-60 per person for a round trip. Beware of scams. When you reach the school in the village, your tour guide will give you pack of exercise books and pencils as "a payment to village for visiting them". The queue of pupils will be longer than number of books you have. Immediately you receive next pack but then you will need to pay $9 for the second pack.

Landmine Museum, +855 15 674 163. 07:30–17:30. This tiny museum was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and unexploded ordnance (UXO) lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, many of whom live on-site. This is a very worthwhile attraction that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of real Cambodia. $3.

Phnom Bok. The highest hill in the area. Temple ruins similar to those found atop of Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakong can also be found on top of Phnom Bok. It lies 20 km to the north east of Siem Reap. Expect a tiring hike up the stairs. A guard may be able to show you around. Don't forget to check out the old howitzers from the civil war. Admission is free, no pass is needed for the Angkorian ruins.

Phnom Krom. The hill which dominates the view, as you approach the floating village of Chong Kneas from Siem Reap. At the top, temple ruins similar to the other two hills can be found. This particular hill is popular for sunsets, as it can be viewed over the flooded plains during the wet season, and over incredibly vibrant rice fields in the dry season.

War museum, +855 97 4578 666. 8am-5:30p.m.. Collection of old (mainly Russian) tanks, artillery, landmines, handguns etc. Also some history background about the Cambodian civil war is displayed. Worthwile for a 1-2 hour visit if interested in military. 5 $.

Angkor National Museum, 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd, +855 63 966 601. Daily, 08:30-18:00. Exhibits covering the history of the Angkor complex as well as Khmer culture and clothing using high tech displays and video screens. Some say the 1,000 Buddhas room is as impressive as it sounds. $12.

Wat Bo, Samdech Tep Vong St and St 22 (east side of the river. Follow the road that continues from over Wat Bo Bridge. As one of the oldest temples it makes a nice contrast between the oldest and the glittering new ones, though the rough artwork wouldn't match the craftsmen of Angkor. The architecture of the ramshackle open air hall next to the main building blends French-style arches and balustrades with Thai-influenced Buddhist details. A forest of chedi surround the main hall, in between frangipani trees and some fine topiary.

Wat Damnak. A landscaped temple with many stupas, a small decorative pool, and a school on the premises.

Wat Preah Prom Rath, Pokambor Ave. The glittering modern temple grounds give few hints as to its 500 year history. Though the lotus-themed architecture seems to emulate temples from over the border, the front gate integrates Bayon-style heads and a scene in relief of the Buddha seated under a tree, while armies fire arrows on one side and others are eaten by crocodiles on the other side, that looks like it could have been taken directly from Angkorian mural. Legend is that the site was established around 1500 when a famous monk landed ashore on a piece of his sinking boat. The boat wood was carved into the oddly foreshortened reclining Buddha installed in a swimming pool-like pit behind the imposing, yet despondent looking, seated Buddha in the main hall. Perhaps mimicking the construction materials origins, the reclining Buddha has taken on a sunken slant at the feet end. A pair of small weather worn cannons on either side of the hall are of unknown origin but their style, an embossed crown-like seal and mysterious numbers suggest a European origin.

Wat Thmei Temple & Stupa Memorial to the Killing Fields. A large Buddhist temple. In the grounds is a stupa with glass sides contains bones and skulls of victims of Pol Pot's army. Be wary of people purporting to be guides or asking for donations. Also, several of the photographs on the display boards are actually of the holocaust in Nazi Germany. Take this attraction with a pinch of salt. Free, donations welcome.

• Angkor Pottery Center, +855 12 755 286. 08:00-17:00. Daily pottery classes for beginners as well as professionals in pottery making, carving and glazing by local potter, Mrs Paruth Hann. Make your own design and take your glazed pot home as a souvenir. An enjoyable experience whilst supporting an enterprise creating fair wage jobs for the poor village women in Siem Reap. $7-20.
• Pottery Classes & Painting classes, 130, vithey Charles de Gaulle (On the main Temple road very near the Angkor national museum, 30m after the traffics light on the right hand side, +855 17 843 014. from 08:00 to 20:00. With the pottery class and clay class course, you can make your own ceramic artifact on the potter wheel. After you finish your piece, you can add different designs on it with potter's tools. With the painting activities, you can draw and / or paint your own design on a pot, cup, plate or other kind of ceramics products. All activities from $15.
• Backstreet Academy, Siem Reap, Road 60, Trang Village, Sangkat Slorkram - 200m East of Naga Bridge (Opposite Angkor Village, +855 089746459. 08:00-06:00. An alternative tour experiences platform, they enable locals to offer authentic and unique activities to tourists such as fishing on the mekong like a local fisherman, coconut carving workshops, Cambodian Boxing, Apsara dance classes, even a fear factor challenge where you learn to cook insects which are sold by vendors along the streets in Phnom Penh. A social enterpise, they work with many underprivileged people who either serve as hosts or facilitators. The facilitators will pick you up from your hotel and translate for you. These facilitators are usually young students looking for work to pay for their education or orphans looking to transition into society. Transport is provided for most activities in Phnom Penh. A great way to interact with local people, take in the culture and have a memorable souvenir.

Angkor Pottery Center, +855 12 755 286. 08:00-17:00. Daily pottery classes for beginners as well as professionals in pottery making, carving and glazing by local potter, Mrs Paruth Hann. Make your own design and take your glazed pot home as a souvenir. An enjoyable experience whilst supporting an enterprise creating fair wage jobs for the poor village women in Siem Reap. $7-20.

Pottery Classes & Painting classes, 130, vithey Charles de Gaulle (On the main Temple road very near the Angkor national museum, 30m after the traffics light on the right hand side, +855 17 843 014. from 08:00 to 20:00. With the pottery class and clay class course, you can make your own ceramic artifact on the potter wheel. After you finish your piece, you can add different designs on it with potter's tools. With the painting activities, you can draw and / or paint your own design on a pot, cup, plate or other kind of ceramics products. All activities from $15.

Backstreet Academy, Siem Reap, Road 60, Trang Village, Sangkat Slorkram - 200m East of Naga Bridge (Opposite Angkor Village, +855 089746459. 08:00-06:00. An alternative tour experiences platform, they enable locals to offer authentic and unique activities to tourists such as fishing on the mekong like a local fisherman, coconut carving workshops, Cambodian Boxing, Apsara dance classes, even a fear factor challenge where you learn to cook insects which are sold by vendors along the streets in Phnom Penh. A social enterpise, they work with many underprivileged people who either serve as hosts or facilitators. The facilitators will pick you up from your hotel and translate for you. These facilitators are usually young students looking for work to pay for their education or orphans looking to transition into society. Transport is provided for most activities in Phnom Penh. A great way to interact with local people, take in the culture and have a memorable souvenir.

• KKO - Off Track Mountain Bike Tours, St 20, Wat Bo Rd (Close to the New Apsara Supermarket on Wat Bo Rd, +855 93 903 024. KKO is a local charitable non-profit NGO. They offer unique Angkor park and countryside off track bike tours and mototours also to the countryside. The entire profit generated from the bike tours flows back to the local KKO School. $30-$40 for a guided full day biketour and $45-$60 for a full day mototour. Booking is required. $25-40 for a full-day tour.
• Sabai Motobike and Jeep Adventures, +855 0 88 372 3121. Explore the Cambodian countryside on a guided motobike adventure or in a Jeep. On tour, get off the beaten path to discover authentic, rugged, and fascinating Cambodia. Sabai Moto and Jeep Adventures tours start from Siem Reap.
• Shooting Range. Armament and explosives availability apparently is only limited by how much you are willing to spend. Listening to the soldiers-turned-used car salesmen put the hard sell on a new machine gun is almost worth the trip. This is a true game of Russian roulette. Fancy pulling the pin of a 30+ year old grenade and possibly getting the faulty one? Make sure that whoever is supervising you is also willing to stand next to you. It can be a little bit difficult to find, and a tuk-tuk driver may know where it is. $50 per AK-47 or M-16 magazine, M-60 belt (50 rounds) $80 (Nov 2011). Grenade throwing: $30.

KKO - Off Track Mountain Bike Tours, St 20, Wat Bo Rd (Close to the New Apsara Supermarket on Wat Bo Rd, +855 93 903 024. KKO is a local charitable non-profit NGO. They offer unique Angkor park and countryside off track bike tours and mototours also to the countryside. The entire profit generated from the bike tours flows back to the local KKO School. $30-$40 for a guided full day biketour and $45-$60 for a full day mototour. Booking is required. $25-40 for a full-day tour.

Sabai Motobike and Jeep Adventures, +855 0 88 372 3121. Explore the Cambodian countryside on a guided motobike adventure or in a Jeep. On tour, get off the beaten path to discover authentic, rugged, and fascinating Cambodia. Sabai Moto and Jeep Adventures tours start from Siem Reap.

Shooting Range. Armament and explosives availability apparently is only limited by how much you are willing to spend. Listening to the soldiers-turned-used car salesmen put the hard sell on a new machine gun is almost worth the trip. This is a true game of Russian roulette. Fancy pulling the pin of a 30+ year old grenade and possibly getting the faulty one? Make sure that whoever is supervising you is also willing to stand next to you. It can be a little bit difficult to find, and a tuk-tuk driver may know where it is. $50 per AK-47 or M-16 magazine, M-60 belt (50 rounds) $80 (Nov 2011). Grenade throwing: $30.

• Beyond Unique Cooking Class, +855 77 562 565. Daily 9.30am-3.30pm. Cambodian cooking classes in a village 10 min from town. The classes are three hours long and include a visit to a local family and information on Cambodian cooking customs and beliefs. Hands on classes for a maximum of six people unless you book a private group. $24.

Beyond Unique Cooking Class, +855 77 562 565. Daily 9.30am-3.30pm. Cambodian cooking classes in a village 10 min from town. The classes are three hours long and include a visit to a local family and information on Cambodian cooking customs and beliefs. Hands on classes for a maximum of six people unless you book a private group. $24.

• Apsara Theatre, Wat Bo Rd, +855 63 963 561. 20:00-21:30. A flashy performance of traditional, popular and classical dances.
• Cambodian Cultural Village, Airport Road # 6, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Krus Village (between the airport and city centre, along national road number 6, 3 km from Siem Reap Airport, +855 63 963098. Daily, 10:00-18:30. Cambodian culture in a nutshell, miniature of Cambodian landmarks, Cambodian traditional house replicas, and cultural performances. $25.
• Smile of Angkor, Smile of Angkor Grand Theatre (Angkor COEX) (northeast outskirts of Siem Reap, direction Angkor. Turn right on Apsara Rd, +855 63 6550168. Nightly, 19:15-20:30. A lavish production of Cambodian traditional dances equipped with a large screen featuring Angkor civilization. "Smile of Angkor" is the grand epic show that revives the Angkor dynasty in all aspects; from foundation to prosperity, tale of folk customs, past to present. The performance expresses traditional Cambodian culture with the latest technology. $38-48.
• We Are The Champions Performances by the Local Disabled Community, Night Market (Back of Night Market adjacent to Island Bar, +855 12 676826. 20:30-21:15, every night except Sunday. A two act play written and performed by participants who share with great feeling what it is like to be disabled in Cambodia and the challenges of their lives. As many of the performers are in pursuit of education to better their lives they appreciate donations of school materials such pens and writing books. Free, donations encouraged.

Apsara Theatre, Wat Bo Rd, +855 63 963 561. 20:00-21:30. A flashy performance of traditional, popular and classical dances.

Cambodian Cultural Village, Airport Road # 6, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Krus Village (between the airport and city centre, along national road number 6, 3 km from Siem Reap Airport, +855 63 963098. Daily, 10:00-18:30. Cambodian culture in a nutshell, miniature of Cambodian landmarks, Cambodian traditional house replicas, and cultural performances. $25.

Smile of Angkor, Smile of Angkor Grand Theatre (Angkor COEX) (northeast outskirts of Siem Reap, direction Angkor. Turn right on Apsara Rd, +855 63 6550168. Nightly, 19:15-20:30. A lavish production of Cambodian traditional dances equipped with a large screen featuring Angkor civilization. "Smile of Angkor" is the grand epic show that revives the Angkor dynasty in all aspects; from foundation to prosperity, tale of folk customs, past to present. The performance expresses traditional Cambodian culture with the latest technology. $38-48.

We Are The Champions Performances by the Local Disabled Community, Night Market (Back of Night Market adjacent to Island Bar, +855 12 676826. 20:30-21:15, every night except Sunday. A two act play written and performed by participants who share with great feeling what it is like to be disabled in Cambodia and the challenges of their lives. As many of the performers are in pursuit of education to better their lives they appreciate donations of school materials such pens and writing books. Free, donations encouraged.

• Angkor Photography Festival: Photography for Change. Annual festival that showcases outdoor projections and various exhibitions around Siem Reap of regional and international photographers. The festival is held during the last week of November every year, consisting of 7 evenings of outdoor projections and more than 10 gallery exhibitions across various venues in the city. The festival is the first of its kind in Southeast Asia and is also the biggest. It aims to highlight the work of Asian photographers and provides free workshops for 30 young photographers from the region every year, led by world renowned professionals, which are showcased during the event. There is a full time office/gallery for the festival located on the East river road near the Bopha Angkor Hotel. As well as the festival, the organisers support a local NGO working with street children, that promotes the arts and runs a photography course with students. Photography from these students is also showcased as part of the festival programme.
• The Annual Street Puppet Festival. An exciting pageantry with the concept of sticks and stilts manipulated puppets much like those which debuted in the opening parade of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and also quite similar to the Trinidad & Tobago Carnival.
• The Water Festival. This vast festival is probably the most extravagant festival in the calendar. Over three days starting with the last full moon day in October or the beginning of November up to a million people from all walks of life from all over the country flock to the banks of Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers in Phnom Penh to watch hundreds of brightly coloured boats with over 50 paddlers battle it out. The boat racing dates back to ancient times marking the strengths of the powerful Khmer marine forces during the Khmer empire. In the evening brightly decorated floats cruise along the river prior to and complimenting the fireworks displays. there is often a parallel festival at Angkor Wat and although it is smaller in scale it is just as impressive due to the backdrop of Angkor Wat. The festival marks the changing of the flow of the Tonle Sap and is also seen as thanksgiving to the Mekong River for providing the country with fertile land and abundant fish. It is at this time when the river flow reverts to its normal down stream direction. The remarkable phenomenon that is the Tonle Sap sees the river flowing upstream during the rainy season and then change direction as the rains cease and the swollen Tonle Sap Lake empties back into the Mekong River leaving behind vast quantities of fish.

Angkor Photography Festival: Photography for Change. Annual festival that showcases outdoor projections and various exhibitions around Siem Reap of regional and international photographers. The festival is held during the last week of November every year, consisting of 7 evenings of outdoor projections and more than 10 gallery exhibitions across various venues in the city. The festival is the first of its kind in Southeast Asia and is also the biggest. It aims to highlight the work of Asian photographers and provides free workshops for 30 young photographers from the region every year, led by world renowned professionals, which are showcased during the event. There is a full time office/gallery for the festival located on the East river road near the Bopha Angkor Hotel. As well as the festival, the organisers support a local NGO working with street children, that promotes the arts and runs a photography course with students. Photography from these students is also showcased as part of the festival programme.

The Annual Street Puppet Festival. An exciting pageantry with the concept of sticks and stilts manipulated puppets much like those which debuted in the opening parade of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and also quite similar to the Trinidad & Tobago Carnival.

The Water Festival. This vast festival is probably the most extravagant festival in the calendar. Over three days starting with the last full moon day in October or the beginning of November up to a million people from all walks of life from all over the country flock to the banks of Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers in Phnom Penh to watch hundreds of brightly coloured boats with over 50 paddlers battle it out. The boat racing dates back to ancient times marking the strengths of the powerful Khmer marine forces during the Khmer empire. In the evening brightly decorated floats cruise along the river prior to and complimenting the fireworks displays. there is often a parallel festival at Angkor Wat and although it is smaller in scale it is just as impressive due to the backdrop of Angkor Wat. The festival marks the changing of the flow of the Tonle Sap and is also seen as thanksgiving to the Mekong River for providing the country with fertile land and abundant fish. It is at this time when the river flow reverts to its normal down stream direction. The remarkable phenomenon that is the Tonle Sap sees the river flowing upstream during the rainy season and then change direction as the rains cease and the swollen Tonle Sap Lake empties back into the Mekong River leaving behind vast quantities of fish.

The Khmer believe that Thai massage is derived from Khmer massage and that it is more relaxing as it requires less twisting and turning. The numerous Khmer-style massage shops mostly offer genuine massage and are not a front for sexual services. Contrary to common belief, blind massage services do offer special massages too.

• Fish Massage. This Thai fad has crossed the border. Dip your feet in a tank of fish and wince as they eat the dead skin off your toes. Trying a tank with feet already inside it will tell you if the fish are hungry. Some claim to have no piranhas while others offer a free beer to subdue any doubts. $1-2 for 15 min.
• Frangipani Spa, 615/617 Hup Guan St (At the ANZ Royal Bank on the corner go a few metres south to the next (small) street and turn right on Hup Guan St. The spa is near the end of the street., +855 63 964391. Wonderful spa with a nice atmosphere, peaceful rooms, and experienced staff. The massages actually feel like trained people are giving them. No special services or hidden fees. It is a nice place to go as a couple or alone. They have massage tables and air conditioning. Tasteful exterior surrounded by frangipani plants (partly obscuring their tasteful green sign saying "frangipani"). $35-75.
• Lemongrass Garden, 7 Sivatha Blvd, +855 12 387 385. 11:00-23:00. Lovely little spa with a relaxing atmosphere and experienced staff. 60 minute Khmer massages are $15, while 90 minute Khmer massages are $22. They also offer oil massages, "spiritual massages," and manicures/pedicures. Treatment rooms have air conditioning, and they provide a cool drink before treatment and warm tea afterwards. They also claim to pay higher wages than most places in Siem Reap, as well as provide other benefits to their workers. $10-70.

Fish Massage. This Thai fad has crossed the border. Dip your feet in a tank of fish and wince as they eat the dead skin off your toes. Trying a tank with feet already inside it will tell you if the fish are hungry. Some claim to have no piranhas while others offer a free beer to subdue any doubts. $1-2 for 15 min.

Frangipani Spa, 615/617 Hup Guan St (At the ANZ Royal Bank on the corner go a few metres south to the next (small) street and turn right on Hup Guan St. The spa is near the end of the street., +855 63 964391. Wonderful spa with a nice atmosphere, peaceful rooms, and experienced staff. The massages actually feel like trained people are giving them. No special services or hidden fees. It is a nice place to go as a couple or alone. They have massage tables and air conditioning. Tasteful exterior surrounded by frangipani plants (partly obscuring their tasteful green sign saying "frangipani"). $35-75.

Lemongrass Garden, 7 Sivatha Blvd, +855 12 387 385. 11:00-23:00. Lovely little spa with a relaxing atmosphere and experienced staff. 60 minute Khmer massages are $15, while 90 minute Khmer massages are $22. They also offer oil massages, "spiritual massages," and manicures/pedicures. Treatment rooms have air conditioning, and they provide a cool drink before treatment and warm tea afterwards. They also claim to pay higher wages than most places in Siem Reap, as well as provide other benefits to their workers. $10-70.

Children are not tourist attractions, and especially orphaned children. Some visitors feel visiting an orphanage is a good way to make a positive contribution to Cambodia, while others feel that orphanage tours do more harm than good. The largest child protection group in the country has asked that tourists not to visit orphanages. The great majority of Cambodian children in orphanages have living parents, who rent them to the orphanages. Most are scams and have histories with severe child abuse. It is strongly encouraged that you do not support this 'business'.

However, some transparent and genuine, long running orphanages that have a good reputation are:

• Cambodian Children's House of Peace, No.004 Phum Mondul 3, Sangkat Slorkram (Turn right off of Charles de Gaulle Blvd, just after the SOS School, +855 92 407077. Sundays, 19:00. The Cambodian Children's House of Peace (aka Santepheap, which means Peace in English) is an orphanage in Siem Reap responsible for over 30 children. The children of the orphanage put on a traditional Khmer Dance show every Sunday night from 19:00-20:15 to highlight traditional Cambodian culture as well as draw attention to the orphanage in general. Free.

Cambodian Children's House of Peace, No.004 Phum Mondul 3, Sangkat Slorkram (Turn right off of Charles de Gaulle Blvd, just after the SOS School, +855 92 407077. Sundays, 19:00. The Cambodian Children's House of Peace (aka Santepheap, which means Peace in English) is an orphanage in Siem Reap responsible for over 30 children. The children of the orphanage put on a traditional Khmer Dance show every Sunday night from 19:00-20:15 to highlight traditional Cambodian culture as well as draw attention to the orphanage in general. Free.

As elsewhere in Cambodia, US dollars, and to a lesser extent, Thai baht are preferred over Cambodian riel except for the very smallest purchase. Using riel for small purchases can be better than using dollars as retailers tend to round up $ prices.

The Heritage Watch non-profit organisation supports business that promote Cambodia's arts, culture, heritage and development. Certified businesses display either a gold or silver Heritage Friendly logo.

International ATMs in Siem Reap are plentiful and most banks will do cash advances from credit cards.

• Artisans d'Angkor, Stung Thmey St, +855 63 963 330. 07:30-17:30. A workshop in the city centre. Showcases traditional Cambodian handicrafts such as wood and stone carving, lacquering, gilding and silk painting. Visitors are conducted on a free guided tour where they can see the craftsmen in action. The boutiques display the many items produced. Tours available in Khmer, English, French, German, Spanish, Japanese and Chinese.
• Bloom Bags. Sturdily made totes, messenger and laptop bags made from recycled fish feed sacks. Though you can buy cheaper knock-offs from the market, these are genuine and you can be assured that your money is going to the women who made your bag.
• Khmer Ceramics & Fine Arts Centre, Vithey Charles de Gaulle, Khum Slorkram (On the road to the temples; 30 m after the traffic light when coming from Siem Reap, +855 1784 3014. 08:00-19:30. Glazed stoneware bowls, plates, teapots and decorative objects made with traditional Khmer ceramic techniques.
• Samatoa, Kolkran, 11 Road 63, +855 63 965 310. 08:00-22:00. Specialises in Cambodian natural silk products. Samatoa encourages fair-trade. From $50.
• Theam's House Gallery, Veal Village, Khum Kokchak, +855 78 20 81 61. Daily, 08:00-19:00. Exhibits paintings and art created by the artist-designer Theam Lim, who has studied at Ecole Boulle and Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Theam's House Gallery and atelier are located in the house of the artist, built by himself, inspired by Khmer rural architecture, surrounded by a luxurious and tropical garden.

Artisans d'Angkor, Stung Thmey St, +855 63 963 330. 07:30-17:30. A workshop in the city centre. Showcases traditional Cambodian handicrafts such as wood and stone carving, lacquering, gilding and silk painting. Visitors are conducted on a free guided tour where they can see the craftsmen in action. The boutiques display the many items produced. Tours available in Khmer, English, French, German, Spanish, Japanese and Chinese.

Bloom Bags. Sturdily made totes, messenger and laptop bags made from recycled fish feed sacks. Though you can buy cheaper knock-offs from the market, these are genuine and you can be assured that your money is going to the women who made your bag.

Khmer Ceramics & Fine Arts Centre, Vithey Charles de Gaulle, Khum Slorkram (On the road to the temples; 30 m after the traffic light when coming from Siem Reap, +855 1784 3014. 08:00-19:30. Glazed stoneware bowls, plates, teapots and decorative objects made with traditional Khmer ceramic techniques.

Samatoa, Kolkran, 11 Road 63, +855 63 965 310. 08:00-22:00. Specialises in Cambodian natural silk products. Samatoa encourages fair-trade. From $50.

Theam's House Gallery, Veal Village, Khum Kokchak, +855 78 20 81 61. Daily, 08:00-19:00. Exhibits paintings and art created by the artist-designer Theam Lim, who has studied at Ecole Boulle and Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Theam's House Gallery and atelier are located in the house of the artist, built by himself, inspired by Khmer rural architecture, surrounded by a luxurious and tropical garden.

• Georges Rhumerie. Infused. Alcohol made in Siem Reap, composed of 10 flavours, inspired by Cambodian fruits and taste. It can be found at Georges Rhumerie restaurant for a free tasting during the day, and also at night. The packaging comes in 2 forms, one normal composed of cardboard, making it legit for the picky custom agent, and the other one more traditional, best for a gift, made by villagers around Siem Reap.
• Sombai Cambodian Liqueur Shop & Workshop, 176 Sombai Road, Salakamreuk Village (Head to ISSR and Quad Adventure Cambodia, pass by the police station turn left just after the bridge. Straight over 200 meters to a lovely traditional wooden house behind a red wall and a black gate, +855 63 555 02 80 (Khmer), +855 63 555 02 80 (Khmer). 8AM-8PM. This shop is the factory outlet of the locally-produced infused liqueur called Sombai. The beverage comes in nicely hand-painted bottles. The shop offers free tasting and a general presentation of the brand. Also available: a range of non-alcoholic products that also come in hand-painted bottles and jars. It is recommended to book in advance.

Georges Rhumerie. Infused. Alcohol made in Siem Reap, composed of 10 flavours, inspired by Cambodian fruits and taste. It can be found at Georges Rhumerie restaurant for a free tasting during the day, and also at night. The packaging comes in 2 forms, one normal composed of cardboard, making it legit for the picky custom agent, and the other one more traditional, best for a gift, made by villagers around Siem Reap.

Sombai Cambodian Liqueur Shop & Workshop, 176 Sombai Road, Salakamreuk Village (Head to ISSR and Quad Adventure Cambodia, pass by the police station turn left just after the bridge. Straight over 200 meters to a lovely traditional wooden house behind a red wall and a black gate, +855 63 555 02 80 (Khmer), +855 63 555 02 80 (Khmer). 8AM-8PM. This shop is the factory outlet of the locally-produced infused liqueur called Sombai. The beverage comes in nicely hand-painted bottles. The shop offers free tasting and a general presentation of the brand. Also available: a range of non-alcoholic products that also come in hand-painted bottles and jars. It is recommended to book in advance.

• Angkor Trade Centre. The mall, Cambodian-style. A reasonably extensive selection of packaged food, drinks whitening deodorant, imported alcohol and the familiar feeling of shopping in air conditioned comfort.
• Central Market. Eclectic collection of clothes and trinkets. Bargain. Most stalls carry the same selection so you can shop around and find the cheapest price.
• Psar Chas. A range of knick-knacks and tourist junk. Some items purport to be antique, but they probably aren't. If so, most likely it has been stolen.

Angkor Trade Centre. The mall, Cambodian-style. A reasonably extensive selection of packaged food, drinks whitening deodorant, imported alcohol and the familiar feeling of shopping in air conditioned comfort.

Central Market. Eclectic collection of clothes and trinkets. Bargain. Most stalls carry the same selection so you can shop around and find the cheapest price.

Psar Chas. A range of knick-knacks and tourist junk. Some items purport to be antique, but they probably aren't. If so, most likely it has been stolen.

• Lex Roulor Tattoo Shop, In the X Bar, at the end of Pub St, +855 97 3042827. 10:00-18:30. Lex Roulor's Tattoo Shop Siem Reap features a French artist with a personal and professional approach to each project. European hygiene standards. Interesting combination of Western old school style and traditional Khmer designs.

Lex Roulor Tattoo Shop, In the X Bar, at the end of Pub St, +855 97 3042827. 10:00-18:30. Lex Roulor's Tattoo Shop Siem Reap features a French artist with a personal and professional approach to each project. European hygiene standards. Interesting combination of Western old school style and traditional Khmer designs.

Eating options span the full spectrum of tastes and budgets from the rudimentary Asian staples and pizza to authentic Khmer and sophisticated fine-dining featuring exotic local ingredients. The highest assortment of restaurants are in few blocks north of the old market, but there are appetizing alternatives along Wat Bo Rd and hidden in the surrounding neighbourhoods.

Though Pub St is better known for its bars, a handful of places serve great food, many with seating upstairs so you can escape the partying milieu on the street below. Crammed along The Alley is a wider selection of restaurants that offer a generally quieter and more intimate experience. The local restaurants lining Phsar Chas have extensive, yet near identical, menus of cheap fried rice and Westernised approximations of Khmer dishes. At dusk the Kindergarten on the corner of Street 8 and 11 becomes a jumble of small BBQ stalls, replete with billowing smoke, noise, and the persistently entreating peddlers. The phnom pleurng here is the cheapest you will find.

Outside of the main part of town in the sometimes dusty neighbourhood streets and area along Wat Bo Rd are some trendy restaurants and small local places serving the most authentic Khmer food.

• L'Annexe French restaurant, Sok San Road 17259, +855 95 839 745. 16.00-22.30. French food. Exquisite cuisine made by a passionate chef, who prefers excellence and quality before all. Subtile and creative cuisine in a friendly atmosphere, Bringing authentic French cuisine, wines and hospitality to Siem Reap $4.50-17.00.
• Neary Khmer Restaurant, +855 12 422 247. 16.00-22.30. Local food along with good vegetarian options. $4.50-17.00.
• Common Grounds Restaurant, * 719, St. 14 / Mundol 1, Khum Svay Dangkum (Behind Central Market, across street from U-Dara Guesthouse, +855 63 965687. M-Sa, 07:00-20:00. Serving Western dishes; chicken tenders, grilled cheese, crispy chicken apple salad, German chocolate cake, seasonal muffins, cinnamon rolls and some Asian dishes. All profit goes to fund local humanitarian projects through NGO People for Care & Learning. Air-con & high speed Internet. $3-7.
• Curry Walla, Two locations Sivatha Blvd & Night Market Rd, +855 63 965 451. Authentic vegetarian & non-veg Indian food.
• Ecstatic Pizza, * 072 2 Thnou St (across from the Provincial Hospital, +855 12 436 869. 07:00-24:00. Italian and Khmer food. Has been operating since 1994. Many kinds of pizza and pasta dishes. You can request your own pizza with either thin or thick crust. Western & English-style breakfasts any time. Fruit shakes, soft drinks, draught beer, wine. Free delivery available. $3-7.
• Factory Pizza and Bar, Little Pub Street New street A (between Pub street and riverside, +855 88 580 00 10. 5pm - 00:00 everyday. Restaurant with decoration factory and street art. Located in front of Pub street. There is pizza, pasta, cocktail and beer. 3$ - 11$.
• Taj Mahal, Street 11 (near Pub St. Classic Indian dishes. All the food is halal.

L'Annexe French restaurant, Sok San Road 17259, +855 95 839 745. 16.00-22.30. French food. Exquisite cuisine made by a passionate chef, who prefers excellence and quality before all. Subtile and creative cuisine in a friendly atmosphere, Bringing authentic French cuisine, wines and hospitality to Siem Reap $4.50-17.00.

Neary Khmer Restaurant, +855 12 422 247. 16.00-22.30. Local food along with good vegetarian options. $4.50-17.00.

Common Grounds Restaurant, * 719, St. 14 / Mundol 1, Khum Svay Dangkum (Behind Central Market, across street from U-Dara Guesthouse, +855 63 965687. M-Sa, 07:00-20:00. Serving Western dishes; chicken tenders, grilled cheese, crispy chicken apple salad, German chocolate cake, seasonal muffins, cinnamon rolls and some Asian dishes. All profit goes to fund local humanitarian projects through NGO People for Care & Learning. Air-con & high speed Internet. $3-7.

Curry Walla, Two locations Sivatha Blvd & Night Market Rd, +855 63 965 451. Authentic vegetarian & non-veg Indian food.

Ecstatic Pizza, * 072 2 Thnou St (across from the Provincial Hospital, +855 12 436 869. 07:00-24:00. Italian and Khmer food. Has been operating since 1994. Many kinds of pizza and pasta dishes. You can request your own pizza with either thin or thick crust. Western & English-style breakfasts any time. Fruit shakes, soft drinks, draught beer, wine. Free delivery available. $3-7.

Factory Pizza and Bar, Little Pub Street New street A (between Pub street and riverside, +855 88 580 00 10. 5pm - 00:00 everyday. Restaurant with decoration factory and street art. Located in front of Pub street. There is pizza, pasta, cocktail and beer. 3$ - 11$.

Taj Mahal, Street 11 (near Pub St. Classic Indian dishes. All the food is halal.

• Butterfly Garden. Vegetarian restaurant serving Western and Cambodian food. Vegan options available. In a quiet street (opposite Karavansera Hotel). A few butterflies though their stock is sadly depleted
• Chamkar, The Passage, Off Pub St. Vegetarian restaurant with Cambodian food and numerous vegan options in the lively Pub Street area
• Father's Restaurant, Central Market, +855 92 963 242. 08:00-22:00. The menu diverges from the usual with fairly authentic Khmer and Chinese foods. The Western menu is not nearly as intriguing. Free Wi-Fi. Fried noodles: $2; pure fruit shakes: $1.
• Peace Cafe, East River Road. An unusual place combining home-style cooking with environmental displays. Large mostly vegetarian menu comprised of both authentic Khmer food and grilled sandwiches and fresh salads, juices, and shakes. $2-5.
• Sunflower Restaurant, 2 Thnou St (north of Street 7, +855 92 245 915. The restaurant looks simple but the Hong Kong dim sum, Vietnamese pho and Chinese wonton soup provide a welcome variation from what you find elsewhere. $2-7.
• Viva, +855 17 838 854. A bright orange Mexican restaurant. Burritos, enchiladas, and quesadillas are reasonably authentic considering the location. They have some Khmer dishes if you want to eat more local food while enjoying the view over the balcony. $2-6.
• La Creperie Bretonne, Lane 10A, between Pub Street and Street 7, +855 86 814 303. French restaurant owned by a Belgian expat. Excellent meats, crepes and a wide beer collection. $ 10-20.
• Molop Wat Damnak Restaurant, Rambutan lane (south of Wat Damnak Pagoda Rambutan Ln, +855 98 663 929. Mon-Sun 7:00-23:00. Cosy restaurant offering Organic Khmer and Western food of high quality. The vegetables are from the uncle´s farm, which can also be visited on a nice and educating half-day tour. Plenty of vegetarian and even vegan options available. They also offer cooking classes for Khmer cooking. The dishes are rich and delicious, and not too spicy. Always serve some spicy peanuts. Main dishes from about $3.
• Viroth's Restaurant, * 246 Wat Bo Rd, +855 12 826 346. Stylish Khmer restaurant that is often so full you will have to wait for a table. The extensive menu is a mix of Khmer and Asian-esque dishes and with some vegetarian options. Some say the food is not spicy enough but the outdoor setting is nice if it is not raining. $5-8.
• Georges Rhumerie restaurant, Wat Damnak, next to quad adventure, +855 968 617 448. from 6PM, closed on Sunday. Features Creole fusion dishes with a nice Cambodian touch coming from home-style chilli and chutney. The cocktails are made better through the use of the Georges infused rum. 1 to 8$.
• HAVEN, Chocolate Road, Wat Damnak area (West of Angkor High School, +855 78 34 24 04. Mon-Sat 11:30-14:30 and 17:30-21:30, Closed on Sunday. Training restaurant teaching disadvantaged young adults. Cambodian, Asian, Western Food, with many vegetarian/vegan options.

Butterfly Garden. Vegetarian restaurant serving Western and Cambodian food. Vegan options available. In a quiet street (opposite Karavansera Hotel). A few butterflies though their stock is sadly depleted

Chamkar, The Passage, Off Pub St. Vegetarian restaurant with Cambodian food and numerous vegan options in the lively Pub Street area

Father's Restaurant, Central Market, +855 92 963 242. 08:00-22:00. The menu diverges from the usual with fairly authentic Khmer and Chinese foods. The Western menu is not nearly as intriguing. Free Wi-Fi. Fried noodles: $2; pure fruit shakes: $1.

Peace Cafe, East River Road. An unusual place combining home-style cooking with environmental displays. Large mostly vegetarian menu comprised of both authentic Khmer food and grilled sandwiches and fresh salads, juices, and shakes. $2-5.

Sunflower Restaurant, 2 Thnou St (north of Street 7, +855 92 245 915. The restaurant looks simple but the Hong Kong dim sum, Vietnamese pho and Chinese wonton soup provide a welcome variation from what you find elsewhere. $2-7.

Viva, +855 17 838 854. A bright orange Mexican restaurant. Burritos, enchiladas, and quesadillas are reasonably authentic considering the location. They have some Khmer dishes if you want to eat more local food while enjoying the view over the balcony. $2-6.

La Creperie Bretonne, Lane 10A, between Pub Street and Street 7, +855 86 814 303. French restaurant owned by a Belgian expat. Excellent meats, crepes and a wide beer collection. $ 10-20.

Molop Wat Damnak Restaurant, Rambutan lane (south of Wat Damnak Pagoda Rambutan Ln, +855 98 663 929. Mon-Sun 7:00-23:00. Cosy restaurant offering Organic Khmer and Western food of high quality. The vegetables are from the uncle´s farm, which can also be visited on a nice and educating half-day tour. Plenty of vegetarian and even vegan options available. They also offer cooking classes for Khmer cooking. The dishes are rich and delicious, and not too spicy. Always serve some spicy peanuts. Main dishes from about $3.

Viroth's Restaurant, * 246 Wat Bo Rd, +855 12 826 346. Stylish Khmer restaurant that is often so full you will have to wait for a table. The extensive menu is a mix of Khmer and Asian-esque dishes and with some vegetarian options. Some say the food is not spicy enough but the outdoor setting is nice if it is not raining. $5-8.

Georges Rhumerie restaurant, Wat Damnak, next to quad adventure, +855 968 617 448. from 6PM, closed on Sunday. Features Creole fusion dishes with a nice Cambodian touch coming from home-style chilli and chutney. The cocktails are made better through the use of the Georges infused rum. 1 to 8$.

HAVEN, Chocolate Road, Wat Damnak area (West of Angkor High School, +855 78 34 24 04. Mon-Sat 11:30-14:30 and 17:30-21:30, Closed on Sunday. Training restaurant teaching disadvantaged young adults. Cambodian, Asian, Western Food, with many vegetarian/vegan options.

• L'Angelo. Probably Siem Reap's most daring restaurant, serving fusionesque Italian cuisine like foie gras on a bed of white asparagus and balsamic vinegar ice cream in a setting so achingly modern that the only decoration is a cloud of black dots on the white wall. A full meal with a glass or two of wine costs around $100 for two.
• Le Malraux, Sivatha St. French cuisine and Khmer specialties, all made with local and fresh products. Central city location that opens early in the morning for breakfast.
• The Dining Room (Park Hyatt Hotel), Sivutha Blvd. Formerly known as Meric when this was the Hotel de la Paix, the name-change has not blunted the quality of the food, which is excellent. Acclaimed by some as the best Khmer restaurant in all Cambodia, it is set in a chic hotel with a minimalist modern feel. The chefs source the freshest ingredients for both Khmer tasting menus, as well as a la carte dishes. Sit in air conditioned comfort, or outside tables and lounge furniture and enjoy the nighly music and dance performances that commence at 20:00.
• The Red Piano, Pub St. 2 floors. Serves a variety of Italian and other European food with Britney Spears music videos in the background.
• Cuisine Wat Damnak, Wat Damnak Market St (Behind Wat Damnak Pagoda, between Psa Dey Hoy Market and Angkor High School, +855 77 347 762. Tu-Su, 18:30-21:30, closed M. French food with Cambodian influence. Only has two tasting menus, no à la carte dishes. Indoor and outdoor seating. $19-$26.
• Cafe D’Angkor (Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor). This restaurant is inside the colonial-era Raffles Hotel. Main courses include western and Khmer dishes, and range from $20 to $30. Both the food and services were excellent. There are other restaurants in this hotel.

L'Angelo. Probably Siem Reap's most daring restaurant, serving fusionesque Italian cuisine like foie gras on a bed of white asparagus and balsamic vinegar ice cream in a setting so achingly modern that the only decoration is a cloud of black dots on the white wall. A full meal with a glass or two of wine costs around $100 for two.

Le Malraux, Sivatha St. French cuisine and Khmer specialties, all made with local and fresh products. Central city location that opens early in the morning for breakfast.

The Dining Room (Park Hyatt Hotel), Sivutha Blvd. Formerly known as Meric when this was the Hotel de la Paix, the name-change has not blunted the quality of the food, which is excellent. Acclaimed by some as the best Khmer restaurant in all Cambodia, it is set in a chic hotel with a minimalist modern feel. The chefs source the freshest ingredients for both Khmer tasting menus, as well as a la carte dishes. Sit in air conditioned comfort, or outside tables and lounge furniture and enjoy the nighly music and dance performances that commence at 20:00.

The Red Piano, Pub St. 2 floors. Serves a variety of Italian and other European food with Britney Spears music videos in the background.

Cuisine Wat Damnak, Wat Damnak Market St (Behind Wat Damnak Pagoda, between Psa Dey Hoy Market and Angkor High School, +855 77 347 762. Tu-Su, 18:30-21:30, closed M. French food with Cambodian influence. Only has two tasting menus, no à la carte dishes. Indoor and outdoor seating. $19-$26.

Cafe D’Angkor (Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor). This restaurant is inside the colonial-era Raffles Hotel. Main courses include western and Khmer dishes, and range from $20 to $30. Both the food and services were excellent. There are other restaurants in this hotel.

• Sister Srey Cafe, 200 pokambor St, Siem Reap, Siemreab-Otdar Meanchey (a one minute walk from the old market. Run by two Australian sisters. Located in an old colonial building. Excellent coffee. Wonderful atmosphere.
• The Hive, Behind Hotel Riviera, Central Market Road. Cosy, chic cafe offering excellent coffee. Healthy meals.

Sister Srey Cafe, 200 pokambor St, Siem Reap, Siemreab-Otdar Meanchey (a one minute walk from the old market. Run by two Australian sisters. Located in an old colonial building. Excellent coffee. Wonderful atmosphere.

The Hive, Behind Hotel Riviera, Central Market Road. Cosy, chic cafe offering excellent coffee. Healthy meals.

The majority of bars and pubs of Siem Reap are concentrated in on a strip called Pub Street and its surrounding alleys. Although peaceful during the day, the streets in the Pub Street area which is just a block away from the historic Psah Chas (Old Market), comes alive with lights and music. Tourists, both local and international alike, starts pouring into the bars and pubs and give the streets almost a nightly street party scene.

Started in the late-1990s by a local business called Angkor What? Bar and followed by its rival, Temple Bar, from the across the street, Pub Street is often recommended as a must-see attraction in Siem Reap.

The distinction between eating and drinking establishments is fairly blurry as even the most humble of restaurants can have an extensive cocktail list on their menu. Nonetheless, a vibrant drinking scene concentrated along Street 8, aptly dubbed "Pub Street", is where serious drinkers head for cheap beer, loud music and the sweaty backpacking hubbub scene akin to Bangkok's Khao San Road. The biggest and most well-known Pub St bars, Angkor What?, The Red Piano, Temple Club and Le Tigre du Papier, are easy to find, with Angkor What? and Temple Club engaged in a running battle playing pop music across the street at very loud volumes.

Travelers looking for more subdued place to appreciate a quiet drink can seek out some of the smaller places along "The Alley", "The Lane" and the adjoining streets. A few drinking holes offer a bit more than cheap drunkenness.

Most places have draught Angkor beer for $0.50 and cans of other beers for $1-2. Cocktails and spirits go for as little as $2. Imported red and white wine, generally from the less prestigious wine producing countries, is widely available and cheaper than you would expect. Better quality Australian and French wines are available in more upmarket establishments at a correspondingly premium price.

These are hostess clubs popular with the locals, room charges are about $5-10 per hour, beer is $2-4. Most of these places are fronts for prostitution. Many of these places have two menus. One for Cambodians, which has cheaper prices, and one for foreigners, which have higher prices. If you see that the beer is $4, they probably gave you the foreigner price.

Pub St features two main late night bars, Angkor What? and Temple Club which are directly across from each other. Commonly late night bar-goers will also congregate and drink in the street between the two bars and consume their own alcohol there, which is readily bought at stalls or shops in the immediate area.

• Khmer Pub Street Beergarden KTVs. close 02:00. There is a strip of local Cambodian bars near the Platinum KTV. If you walk past it, there is a whole 2-3 block street full of local cambodian bars. Menus are not in English and few employees speak English, but the prices are good. These are restaurant/bars, they have young women sitting at the entrance, and you can have one accompany you for $1.50. Beers are $1. $.50 for draught beer.
• Score Sports Bar. More than just a sports bar, with free pool table and 3 large HD TVs. Great place to watch rugby and football. Expensive drinks.
• Angkor What?, Pub St. sundown until late. The most famous backpacker bar in Siem Reap, located directly across from competing late night spot Temple Club. $1 draught beers, $2 mixers, $6-8 buckets. Large Western crowd. Offers inside and outside drinking. Open until late.
• Banana Leaf Cafe, Pub St. Small contemporary street side café, with weekend live music. Efficient and professional staff will entertain the crowd until late. Great cocktails.
• X Bar, 102 Sok San Road, +855 12 263 271. 15:00-sunrise. Open air rooftop bar featuring a 2 m skateboard halfpipe, jam sessions every Wednesday evening, live DJs and bands every week and a resident tattoo shop with a French artist. Probably the best city views in town, and unusual sunset over the halfpipe. At the end of Pub Street, look up for the X.
• Asana Old Wooden House, The Lane, behind Pub St, +855 92 9987801. Food & cocktail bar. Restored in 2012, Asana is the last wooden house in the city-old market area.
• Little Pari, The Lane, behind Pub St. A delightful corner bar playing jazz and dispensing cocktail infusions to a friendly expat crowd.
• Miss Wong Cocktail Bar, The Lane, behind Pub St. Tucked away from the rowdy chaos of Pub St, this sophisticated bar serves up delightful refreshing cocktails in a sultry red lounge plucked straight from 1930s Shanghai.

Khmer Pub Street Beergarden KTVs. close 02:00. There is a strip of local Cambodian bars near the Platinum KTV. If you walk past it, there is a whole 2-3 block street full of local cambodian bars. Menus are not in English and few employees speak English, but the prices are good. These are restaurant/bars, they have young women sitting at the entrance, and you can have one accompany you for $1.50. Beers are $1. $.50 for draught beer.

Score Sports Bar. More than just a sports bar, with free pool table and 3 large HD TVs. Great place to watch rugby and football. Expensive drinks.

Angkor What?, Pub St. sundown until late. The most famous backpacker bar in Siem Reap, located directly across from competing late night spot Temple Club. $1 draught beers, $2 mixers, $6-8 buckets. Large Western crowd. Offers inside and outside drinking. Open until late.

Banana Leaf Cafe, Pub St. Small contemporary street side café, with weekend live music. Efficient and professional staff will entertain the crowd until late. Great cocktails.

X Bar, 102 Sok San Road, +855 12 263 271. 15:00-sunrise. Open air rooftop bar featuring a 2 m skateboard halfpipe, jam sessions every Wednesday evening, live DJs and bands every week and a resident tattoo shop with a French artist. Probably the best city views in town, and unusual sunset over the halfpipe. At the end of Pub Street, look up for the X.

Asana Old Wooden House, The Lane, behind Pub St, +855 92 9987801. Food & cocktail bar. Restored in 2012, Asana is the last wooden house in the city-old market area.

Little Pari, The Lane, behind Pub St. A delightful corner bar playing jazz and dispensing cocktail infusions to a friendly expat crowd.

Miss Wong Cocktail Bar, The Lane, behind Pub St. Tucked away from the rowdy chaos of Pub St, this sophisticated bar serves up delightful refreshing cocktails in a sultry red lounge plucked straight from 1930s Shanghai.

Most locals are decent people just trying to make an honest living, but a few shady characters try every trick to take advantage of travellers' good will. Be alert to deceptive dealers but don't let suspicion ruin your trip.

Convenience stores have been known to give incorrect change and pocket the rest. Check your change before you walk out of the store and point out any short changing. Most likely they will admit to their "mistake" and give you the right change.

Street vendors and beggars in competition for generous travellers' handouts have developed cunning, if underhanded, techniques to get your attention (and money). The "beggar army" of young children will come up to you in the crowd and grab your hands, leading you to a shop where they will then try and have you buy food/baby milk/water for them. Baby milk powder seems to be a popular one. It might sound like a more humanitarian way to help than simply giving them money, but once you leave the store the goods you bought for them are sold back to the shop owners or to other locals and the cash goes to an adult. Young women with babies cradled in a krama perform a similar trick.

Donation-collectors for orphanages may approach you in the street claiming to be volunteer workers, showing you convincing photos of themselves in the orphanage and a clip board listing the generous donations made by foreign visitors. Though these young adults may be well groomed and speak excellent English it's possible that your donation will go directly into their pockets. A donation (either of money, or your time) to a recognised charity might be a better way to help.

Baby-milk scams may be encountered in the centre of town, outside supermarkets. A very poor looking woman will beg for some milk powder, pointing to her baby. If one cracks and buys the milk, she later returns it to the shop, and the money is split half-half.

Dollar bills need to be checked, as you will find out that you won't be able to change bills with any tiny cut. Fake dollar bills are also wide spread, and can even be issued from ATMs.

NGO safari should be avoided. Do not schedule any orphanage visit unless this is the main purpose of your trip.

Paedopilia scam is a danger for any Western male travelling alone to Siem Reap. Crooked NGO APLE ("Agir pour les enfants"), is trapping individuals with child-abuse related false allegations. Do not stay alone with young people (room, temple, school, countryside, stadium, car) and do not respond to any favour they ask of you (transport, phone call, help, use your toilet or a glass of water)

For general information on health in Cambodia, see the article on Cambodia.

• Royal Angkor International Hospital, National Rte 6, Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea, +855 63 761 888. Owned by the Bangkok Hospital Group and caters specifically to tourists. The care is not cheap, but it is of a very high standard. There is a fully stocked pharmacy, general surgeon, orthopedic surgeon, paediatrician and other hospital services such as treatment for fractures and intestinal problems.

Royal Angkor International Hospital, National Rte 6, Phum Kasekam, Khum Sra Ngea, +855 63 761 888. Owned by the Bangkok Hospital Group and caters specifically to tourists. The care is not cheap, but it is of a very high standard. There is a fully stocked pharmacy, general surgeon, orthopedic surgeon, paediatrician and other hospital services such as treatment for fractures and intestinal problems.

The numerous Internet cafés charge anywhere $0.50-1.50/hr. Speed of connection, and speed of PC, very much depends from place to place. A free public Wi-Fi network covers the Pub St and Alley areas but it can sometimes be spotty and always terribly slow.

Most hotels will have cable TV with many international channels such as BBC and CNN as well as those from surrounding countries. There are several FM radio stations, which include international broadcaster Radio France International on 92.0MHz.

• Banteay Chhmar - the forgotten Angkorian complex in neighboring Banteay Meanchey Province. A bit ambitious for a day trip by tuk-tuk but makes for a wonderful excursion by helicopter (about $2,200).
• Battambang - Cambodia's second largest city with Buddhist temples, shrines and statues.
• Koh Ker - the ancient capital, much less touristy than Angkor.
• Kampong Thom - a gateway to the world heritage listed ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk.
• Phnom Penh - the modern capital, with the Royal Palace and sites related to the gruesome Khmer Rouge regime and the Cambodian genocide.
• Thailand - the border crossing at Poipet is a couple hours away, and there are several daily buses to Bangkok
• Tonle Sap Lake - Southeast Asia's biggest lake with floating villages and a rich biodiversity.