Srinagar

India

Srinagar in the Kashmir Valley is the summer capital of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir and the largest city in the Kashmir region.

Sikharas in Dal Lake The city has become safer to travel to since 2003; however, police/army presence is still heavy. Many buildings of value will also have a sandbag bunker and razor wire for protection. If arriving from the airport, you will also notice hundreds of large, Western-style houses. These were built before the current conflict when domestic travel to Kashmir was booming. Most of these houses are empty, being squatted in or have been usurped for military use.

Most people visit the city in the summer months. The temperature at this time is cool to pleasant. Light sweaters may be needed for occasional cool nights in the summertime. In winter, you will need full winter gear and expect snow and few places to have hot water.

Tomb of Zain-ul-Abudin's Mother Khan Qah of Shah Hamadan Dal Lake, Srinagar Nishat Bagh Shalimar Bagh Hazaratbal Shrine

  • Hazratbal Mosque. The white mosque is breathtakingly beautiful. Women may enter only the first part of the mosque. Take a walk through the adjacent market area with a range of great fresh food and a thousand things deep fried.
  • Mughal Gardens. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them: the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions. The beauty of these gardens is at their best during spring but the Mughal structure of these gardens lends them a unique sense of beauty even when the flowers are not blossoming.
    • Chashme Shahi Garden. A beautiful garden.
    • Nishat Bagh. On the banks of Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan Mountains as its backdrop (11 km from TRC), this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow-capped Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.
    • Shalimar Bagh. Built by Emperor Jahangir in front of the Dal lake.
  • Nehru Garden, off Dal Gate (before Chasmashahi Garden. A well maintained park with lake by Dept of Floriculture with organised parking lot next to the park. The park occupies a large area and has a beverage shop run by the J&K Tourism department. They serve hot and flavoured "Kahva", a traditional drink of Kashmir. A cup costs ₹25. The nearby Tulip Park only has seasonal access. There is adequate parking adjacent to the park. Adult: ₹10.
  • Pari Mahal. Don't miss the breathtaking views of the city from here.
  • Parihaspora, Dewar (on way to Gulmarg. Visit the ruins located on the outskirts of Srinagar on way to Gulmarg. See the palaces of Kashmir's Buddhist and Hindu rulers and Buddhist places of worship.
  • Shankaracharya Mandir. A Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on a hilltop. It can be reached by car or taxi or auto rickshaw. You can walk too. It is a 5 km walk from the entrance of the hill. No cameras or mobiles phones are allowed within the temple and you are supposed to leave them in the vehicle before entering the temple premises. The army checkpoint can also keep your camera and mobilesphones. Cigarettes and alcoholic drinks should be deposited with the police before the ascent of the hill, as these items are against Hindu religion. Locals from Dal Gate say there are 250 steps to reach the temple. The temple is visible from Dal Lake Area.
  • Sunrise at Dal Lake. The early sunrise at 06:30 offers the real glimpse of Kashmiri beauty. Though intense cold will make you bit lazy, the beauty offered by sun and Lake is enough to get you out of the sleep.
  • Tomb of the Mother of Zain-ul-Abidin. Hidden in the streets between river and Zainda Kadal, this extraordinary brick mausoleum marks the final resting place of Sultan Sikande’s wife.
  • Ziarati Hazrati Youza Asouph. In the Khanyar area, about 150 m NW of Dastgir Saheb mosque & shrine. This tomb, also known as Roza Bal, is believed by some to be the tomb of Jesus (part of the larger theory that he survived the crucifixion and made his way to Kashmir where he lived until at least the age of 100). It has been made popular by recent books such as Jesus Lived in India by Holger Kersten among others. It's down a little side road - ask around, pretty much anyone in the area can point you in the right direction. It was closed in September 2011 and sealed, photography and videography are not permitted.

Hazratbal Mosque. The white mosque is breathtakingly beautiful. Women may enter only the first part of the mosque. Take a walk through the adjacent market area with a range of great fresh food and a thousand things deep fried.

Mughal Gardens. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them: the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions. The beauty of these gardens is at their best during spring but the Mughal structure of these gardens lends them a unique sense of beauty even when the flowers are not blossoming.

  • Chashme Shahi Garden. A beautiful garden.
  • Nishat Bagh. On the banks of Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan Mountains as its backdrop (11 km from TRC), this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow-capped Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.
  • Shalimar Bagh. Built by Emperor Jahangir in front of the Dal lake.

Mughal Gardens. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them: the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions. The beauty of these gardens is at their best during spring but the Mughal structure of these gardens lends them a unique sense of beauty even when the flowers are not blossoming.

  • Chashme Shahi Garden. A beautiful garden.
  • Nishat Bagh. On the banks of Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan Mountains as its backdrop (11 km from TRC), this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow-capped Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.
  • Shalimar Bagh. Built by Emperor Jahangir in front of the Dal lake.

Mughal Gardens. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them: the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions. The beauty of these gardens is at their best during spring but the Mughal structure of these gardens lends them a unique sense of beauty even when the flowers are not blossoming.

  • Chashme Shahi Garden. A beautiful garden.
  • Nishat Bagh. On the banks of Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan Mountains as its backdrop (11 km from TRC), this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow-capped Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.
  • Shalimar Bagh. Built by Emperor Jahangir in front of the Dal lake.

Nehru Garden, off Dal Gate (before Chasmashahi Garden. A well maintained park with lake by Dept of Floriculture with organised parking lot next to the park. The park occupies a large area and has a beverage shop run by the J&K Tourism department. They serve hot and flavoured "Kahva", a traditional drink of Kashmir. A cup costs ₹25. The nearby Tulip Park only has seasonal access. There is adequate parking adjacent to the park. Adult: ₹10.

Pari Mahal. Don't miss the breathtaking views of the city from here.

Parihaspora, Dewar (on way to Gulmarg. Visit the ruins located on the outskirts of Srinagar on way to Gulmarg. See the palaces of Kashmir's Buddhist and Hindu rulers and Buddhist places of worship.

Shankaracharya Mandir. A Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on a hilltop. It can be reached by car or taxi or auto rickshaw. You can walk too. It is a 5 km walk from the entrance of the hill. No cameras or mobiles phones are allowed within the temple and you are supposed to leave them in the vehicle before entering the temple premises. The army checkpoint can also keep your camera and mobilesphones. Cigarettes and alcoholic drinks should be deposited with the police before the ascent of the hill, as these items are against Hindu religion. Locals from Dal Gate say there are 250 steps to reach the temple. The temple is visible from Dal Lake Area.

Sunrise at Dal Lake. The early sunrise at 06:30 offers the real glimpse of Kashmiri beauty. Though intense cold will make you bit lazy, the beauty offered by sun and Lake is enough to get you out of the sleep.

Tomb of the Mother of Zain-ul-Abidin. Hidden in the streets between river and Zainda Kadal, this extraordinary brick mausoleum marks the final resting place of Sultan Sikande’s wife.

Ziarati Hazrati Youza Asouph. In the Khanyar area, about 150 m NW of Dastgir Saheb mosque & shrine. This tomb, also known as Roza Bal, is believed by some to be the tomb of Jesus (part of the larger theory that he survived the crucifixion and made his way to Kashmir where he lived until at least the age of 100). It has been made popular by recent books such as Jesus Lived in India by Holger Kersten among others. It's down a little side road - ask around, pretty much anyone in the area can point you in the right direction. It was closed in September 2011 and sealed, photography and videography are not permitted.

Shikaras in Dal Lake

All the hotels organize excursions (1, 2, 4 days) to see the Himalayan mountains. Beside that package tours by JKTDC can be a good option. Using an honest guide or fixer can potentially save you money on goods and accommodation.

Go for a Shikara ride in the Dal lake which costs around ₹150 (off season) - ₹500 (peak season) for the whole Shikara. For better views and a more peaceful ride in an area devoid of other tourists, walk up a fair bit of distance till you can see the fountain and ask the Shikara rider to take you for a ride to the fountain. It costs ₹300 (off season) to ₹600 (peak season). Make sure you bargain a little, especially in off season. If you are staying longer, you could go on shikara rides more than once... each time to a different part of the lake. A must see is the "village" in the lake. Ask for a ride to the side where locals live and see the floating vegetable market. The market is usually operational only at sunrise and is easiest organised through an agent or your hotel/houseboat.

One important point to note for tourists having passion for shopping is when you hire an auto rickshaw, please mention that you want to go to Lal Chowk Ghantaghar only for shopping, as most of the auto rickshaw drivers will insist that there is nothing in Lal Chowk, and you should go to the wholesale market instead. This is because the prices at the so-called wholesale market are very much inflated, as they pay at least 20% commission to those auto rickshaw drivers. Also, there are very few shops there. Do not fall into the trap of these cheating auto rickshaw pullers.

  • Chainstitch rugs There are rugs in two styles; English design or Kilim design. It will be evident what is meant when you see them.
  • Carpets.
  • Cashmere (Pashmina) shawls Have been manufactured in Kashmir for thousands of years. Pashmina Shawls are very popular items for sale in the Valley, but make sure to test the quality before purchasing. The test for a 100% pashmina has been warmth, feel and the passing of the shawl through a wedding ring. Costs on a true pashmina can vary wildly, but usually start around ₹8,000. Secondly, the weave pattern on a good Pashmina is fainter than on a "silk Pashmina" or other wool Pashmina. There is also lower grades of pashmina known as Semi-Pashmina (10-50% pashmina wool) and Half-Pashmina (50% pashmina wool) which are still of an exceptional quality but much lower price (₹1,000-3,000). Also check if they are machine woven or hand woven (look for irregularities in the wool to spot a hand woven), hand woven are stronger due to the density of the weave and cost more.
  • Government Emporia You can also buy embroidered felt mats called Namdahs but the colours of the wool may be a bit too bright in most shops. The Government Emporia supplies might be better than some the private shops.
  • Kashmir Shawl Museum, 1st floor of the Auquaf Building at Dalgate at the end of The Boulevard in the centre of town (Near Dhar Medicate look for a tiny staircase heading up and a big 1st floor sign, +91 194 242 4891. They will take you through in detail the types of pashminas you can buy (and how to test them) and are fantastic in that they don't negotiate but offer a set price.
  • Paper Machie products: Unique to Kashmir with colourful motifs and design on them. They are seen everywhere and resemble pottery in shape and design.
  • You can also buy leather products or special jewellery of Srinagar.

Chainstitch rugs There are rugs in two styles; English design or Kilim design. It will be evident what is meant when you see them.

Carpets.

Cashmere (Pashmina) shawls Have been manufactured in [[Kashmir]] for thousands of years. Pashmina Shawls are very popular items for sale in the Valley, but make sure to test the quality before purchasing. The test for a 100% pashmina has been warmth, feel and the passing of the shawl through a wedding ring. Costs on a true pashmina can vary wildly, but usually start around ₹8,000. Secondly, the weave pattern on a good Pashmina is fainter than on a "silk Pashmina" or other wool Pashmina. There is also lower grades of pashmina known as Semi-Pashmina (10-50% pashmina wool) and Half-Pashmina (50% pashmina wool) which are still of an exceptional quality but much lower price (₹1,000-3,000). Also check if they are machine woven or hand woven (look for irregularities in the wool to spot a hand woven), hand woven are stronger due to the density of the weave and cost more.

Government Emporia You can also buy embroidered felt mats called Namdahs but the colours of the wool may be a bit too bright in most shops. The Government Emporia supplies might be better than some the private shops.

Kashmir Shawl Museum, 1st floor of the Auquaf Building at Dalgate at the end of The Boulevard in the centre of town (Near Dhar Medicate look for a tiny staircase heading up and a big 1st floor sign, +91 194 242 4891. They will take you through in detail the types of pashminas you can buy (and how to test them) and are fantastic in that they don't negotiate but offer a set price.

Paper Machie products: Unique to Kashmir with colourful motifs and design on them. They are seen everywhere and resemble pottery in shape and design.

You can also buy leather products or special jewellery of Srinagar.

There are numerous bakeries in the city. Kashmiris are very fond of bakery products, especially pastries and cakes, and you can find these bakeries very crowded, especially around the times of major festivals. The more famous bakeries include:

  • Jee Enn Sons, Nallahmar Rd. Famous for its pastries, bread, bakery products, patties and themed cakes.
  • Mughal Darbar. Notable for sweets, cakes and pastries.
  • Shawl Bakery. Famous for its wedding cakes and boasts about its sweets and chocolates.

There are a number of restaurants and cafes in Srinagar. Most of the good ones are located in Lal chowk or on Boulevard along the banks of the Dal Lake. Most of the restaurants will serve Kashmiri, Indian, Mughlai and 'Indianized' Chinese dishes. Some pure veg restaurants are also located along Boulevard. Among the veg restaurants 'Krishna Dhaba' is the most popular for its Rajma-and-kheer.

Make sure you try dishes like Rogan-gosht (meat cooked in red sauce), Gushtaba (soft meat balls cooked in natural yoghurt),Rishta (soft meat balls in delicious sauce), Tabakmaaz (deep fried ribs of a lamb) and Kanti (small chunks of meat cooked with a lot of onions). All these meat items are usually eaten with rice.

Another popular local delicacy called Seekh-tuji consists of marinated meat pieces which are freshly barbecued and eaten with chutney. Most of these vendors are located in the Khayaam region of the city. This place is usually teeming with teenagers, especially in the evenings.

Enjoy the grilled mutton available in Srinagar. This is referred to as a "tilli" or "tekh" and mostly eaten by locals.

Jee Enn Sons, Nallahmar Rd. Famous for its pastries, bread, bakery products, patties and themed cakes.

Mughal Darbar. Notable for sweets, cakes and pastries.

Shawl Bakery. Famous for its wedding cakes and boasts about its sweets and chocolates.

Kahwah is a traditional green tea recipe from Kashmir. The tea is made from green tea leaves with saffron strands, cinnamon bark and cardamom pods. Some varieties are made as a herbal infusion only, without the green tea leaves. Generally, it is served with sugar or honey, and crushed nuts, usually almonds or walnuts. There is another form of tea that is quite famous amongst the locals, its called 'namkeen chai' or 'nun chai'. It is pink in colour and is also called pink tea. It is made from black tea, cardamom, various spices, salt and bicarbonate of soda. Also people like nune toath and dum toath which are very famous among Sufis. Nunetoath is nunechai without milk and dumtoath is strong form of kahwa.

If searching for a beer or other drink there is a small bottle shop on the Boulevard. It's at the base of a hotel about halfway up the street and looks like a mini-Fort Knox. Ask people on the street and they'll point you in the right direction.

  • There, Alpine Ridge Hotel (In Gulmarg, +91 195 4254527. Inside the Alpine Ridge hotel. Western-style food and alcohol in a relaxed environment, with indie music and an fusion of local Kashmiri craft and Scandinavian woodwork in the decor. Après-ski option on the mountain. Open from 10:00 for the ski season, Dec-March.

There, Alpine Ridge Hotel (In Gulmarg, +91 195 4254527. Inside the Alpine Ridge hotel. Western-style food and alcohol in a relaxed environment, with indie music and an fusion of local Kashmiri craft and Scandinavian woodwork in the decor. Après-ski option on the mountain. Open from 10:00 for the ski season, Dec-March.

The situation in Srinagar is extremely tense because of the ongoing dispute between India and Pakistan. You will see army trucks, soldiers along the street and Dal Lake Military presence, also seen at the Srinagar Airport. If you plan to travel to Srinagar, it is advisable to read your country's embassy or consular pages for emergency travel warnings or tips on staying alert.

It is recommended to travel in groups, and you have to be extra careful while in Srinagar. However, that doesn't mean you have to be under constant fear, or else you will not able to enjoy your tour and your visit will be almost futile.

At the Dal lake, the Shikara and houseboat touts are aggressive. If you do not take their offered service, some of them are likely to scold you. It is difficult to walk around the Dal Lake because of the constant harassment from the touts.

Do not be seen around the old city mosque after prayer call- it is well known as a hotbed of unrest, stone throwing is daily and it would be easy to be caught in the afray- photo taking is especially unwise.

The villages surrounding Srinagar are dangerous. Without the constant army presence, security here cannot be guaranteed and anti-army protests and road blockages are still common in 2018. It is better not to go here at all as there is little that cannot be seen elsewhere.

Terrorism has touched the whole population of Srinagar, and that includes those involved in the tourism industry- you may find your driver or hotel owner voicing support for terrorist organizations, if this happens just nod and smile; say you are only visiting and don't care much for politics. Similarly many involved in the tourism industry see it as their duty to try and convert tourists to Islam, this can involve uncomfortably pointed discussions in family homes, invitations to mosques, even visits to your guesthouse- but these are generally well meaning in nature if forceful.

  • Gulmarg is a spectacular hill station at an altitude of 2,730 m, which used to be known as Gaurimarg. Gulmarg boasts about beautiful landscapes, green backdrop and flowering gardens.
  • Jammu Jeeps leave daily as well as buses, be aware that J&K bus company quite often go on strike. Jeep costs ₹350-450 and takes approx 8 hr. One can take package tours advertised in the Tourist Information Centre.
  • Leh/Ladakh More than 400 km away from Srinagar, Leh is one of the emerging tourist destinations in India. Jeeps leave daily except Sunday, taking two days with an overnight stop in Kargil.
  • Pahalgam Pahalgam valley is situated at confluence of Seshnag Lake's streams and Lidder River. The lush green valley is popular for those seeking relaxation.
  • Sonamarg The authentic beauty of the region helped it to earn the name Sonamarg. Situated around 87 km from Srinagar, it is famous for hiking trails and trekking.

[[Gulmarg]] is a spectacular hill station at an altitude of 2,730 m, which used to be known as Gaurimarg. Gulmarg boasts about beautiful landscapes, green backdrop and flowering gardens.

[[Jammu]] Jeeps leave daily as well as buses, be aware that J&K bus company quite often go on strike. Jeep costs ₹350-450 and takes approx 8 hr. One can take package tours advertised in the Tourist Information Centre.

[[Leh]]/[[Ladakh]] More than 400 km away from Srinagar, Leh is one of the emerging tourist destinations in India. Jeeps leave daily except Sunday, taking two days with an overnight stop in [[Kargil]].

[[Pahalgam]] Pahalgam valley is situated at confluence of Seshnag Lake's streams and Lidder River. The lush green valley is popular for those seeking relaxation.

[[Sonamarg]] The authentic beauty of the region helped it to earn the name Sonamarg. Situated around 87 km from Srinagar, it is famous for hiking trails and trekking.