Strontian

United_Kingdom

The Ardnamurchan Peninsula (Scottish Gaelic: Àird nam Murchan: headland of the great seas) is in the Scottish Highlands. It's the most westerly and remote part of mainland Britain, accessed only by a long, winding single-track lane. For visitor purposes the name generally applies to the entire triangle of land west of Loch Linnhe, north of the Sound of Mull, and south of the A830, taking in Moidart, Sunart, Ardgour and Morvern as well Ardnamurchan which geographically is just the western tip.

Strontian is the tiny village at the centre of this triangle which gave its name to the element strontium. In 1790 geologists discovered a new mineral in the lead mines here, which they called "strontianite", and within it identified strontium from its distinctive crimson-red flame. It became commercially important in the 19th century in the extraction of sugar from beet, and in the 20th century for the coating of TV cathode-ray tubes; nowadays a major use is for red firework flares. It's chemically similar to calcium and is therefore taken up by bones and other body tissues. The natural isotope is mostly strontium-88, which is non-toxic, radio-stable and not a health concern. It's strontium-90, a radioactive product of nuclear fallout such as the Chernobyl explosion, that causes bone cancer, leukaemia and other serious conditions. You're not at heightened risk of these through visiting Strontian.

  • Ariundle Oakwood, PH36 4JB (above Strontian. Oak forests once cloaked the Atlantic coast from Norway to Portugal; Ariundle is a rare survival in Scotland, designated as a National Nature Reserve. Both sessile and pedunculate oaks (plus hybrids) thrive here; their presence is partly artificial, as they were cultivated for charcoal during the lead-mining era (hence their multiple stems, from coppicing). There are two trails through the woods, which can be combined into a 3-mile loop; watch out for otters, pipistrelle bats, wildcats, pine martens and badgers. The woods are also notable for mosses, liverworts and lichens. Trails starting from the Oakwood go up to the old lead mines and the summit of Sgùrr Dhòmhnuill, a Corbett of 888 m or 2913 ft. Free.
  • Castle Tioram, Dorlin PH36 4JZ. A ruin on a tidal island on the shore of Loch Moidart, dating perhaps to 13th C. The ruin is unsafe to enter but you can stroll around the exterior at low tide.
  • Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, PH36 4JB. April-Oct daily 10:00-17:00. It's not quite the most westerly point on the British mainland, as Corrachadh Mòr half a mile south just edges it, but it's still a spectacular view over the roiling Atlantic. The tour includes ascent of the 36m tower. Adult, concs.
  • Ardnamurchan (Adelphi) Distillery, PH36 4JG (on B8007 between Salen and Kilchoan. M-Sa 10:00-18:00. It produces single malt whisky, but as it was only started in 2013, the whisky is still maturing and is not yet on sale. Standard tour £8.
  • Glenborrodale Castle & Gardens. The gardens are closed and the castle is for sale at £3.75 million (as of 2019).

Ariundle Oakwood, PH36 4JB (above Strontian. Oak forests once cloaked the Atlantic coast from Norway to Portugal; Ariundle is a rare survival in Scotland, designated as a National Nature Reserve. Both sessile and pedunculate oaks (plus hybrids) thrive here; their presence is partly artificial, as they were cultivated for charcoal during the lead-mining era (hence their multiple stems, from coppicing). There are two trails through the woods, which can be combined into a 3-mile loop; watch out for otters, pipistrelle bats, wildcats, pine martens and badgers. The woods are also notable for mosses, liverworts and lichens. Trails starting from the Oakwood go up to the old lead mines and the summit of Sgùrr Dhòmhnuill, a Corbett of 888 m or 2913 ft. Free.

Castle Tioram, Dorlin PH36 4JZ. A ruin on a tidal island on the shore of Loch Moidart, dating perhaps to 13th C. The ruin is unsafe to enter but you can stroll around the exterior at low tide.

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, PH36 4JB. April-Oct daily 10:00-17:00. It's not quite the most westerly point on the British mainland, as Corrachadh Mòr half a mile south just edges it, but it's still a spectacular view over the roiling Atlantic. The tour includes ascent of the 36m tower. Adult, concs.

Ardnamurchan (Adelphi) Distillery, PH36 4JG (on B8007 between Salen and Kilchoan. M-Sa 10:00-18:00. It produces single malt whisky, but as it was only started in 2013, the whisky is still maturing and is not yet on sale. Standard tour £8.

Glenborrodale Castle & Gardens. The gardens are closed and the castle is for sale at £3.75 million (as of 2019).

  • Scuba diving: preferably in a dry-suit, though you can get away with a chunky wet-suit in summer or early autumn. Lochaline has a dive centre, with the signature dive being along the wall near the slipway. The Sound of Mull is littered with wrecks, many of historical interest. The dive centre has a bunk-house and occasionally runs archaeological dives on protected sites where diving is normally restricted, such as the Swan, a Cromwellian warship lost in a storm in 1653; prior booking is essential.

Scuba diving: preferably in a dry-suit, though you can get away with a chunky wet-suit in summer or early autumn. Lochaline has a dive centre, with the signature dive being along the wall near the slipway. The Sound of Mull is littered with wrecks, many of historical interest. The dive centre has a bunk-house and occasionally runs archaeological dives on protected sites where diving is normally restricted, such as the Swan, a Cromwellian warship lost in a storm in 1653; prior booking is essential.

Stock up before you come, there's limited supplies of anything here.

Your best option is the hotel restaurants.

  • Cafe Sunart in Strontian serves snacks M-Sa 09:30-16:30, Su 10:00-15:00.

The hotels mostly have public bars.

Passable mobile & Wi-Fi coverage in the main settlements. Some dead spots along the roads between, and near zero out on the moors.

  • The island of Mull is just south across the Sound, by ferry from Lochaline or Kilchoan.
  • Go north to Arisaig or Mallaig for boat trips round (or longer stays on) the Small Isles.
  • Ferries from Mallaig ply to Armadale on Skye, or drive the longer way around by the bridge. The scenery is spectacular but it'll feel very crowded and touristy after Ardnamurchan.