Struga

Republic_of_Macedonia

Struga Struga (Macedonian: Струга, Albanian: Strugë) is a city in Western North Macedonia on Lake Ohrid. Nicknamed the "City of Poetry", it is known for its annual international poetry festival. Unlike larger and more popular Ohrid, Struga has flatter geography and is more ethnically diverse. Nonetheless, it contains a fair amount of places of interest both within the city and the outlying villages.

Struga has always been in the shadow of Ohrid, as Ohrid has more monuments and better preserved houses. But Struga can still be a fun daytrip from Ohrid if one combines it with a trip to the villages on the west coast of lake Ohrid where main sight, aside from the nice quiet beaches, are the cave churches.

Unlike Ohrid which is situated on hills, Struga is flat, spread around Drim river. It is a great place to relax with a cup of coffee by the river.

While the city of Struga has a majority ethnic Macedonian population, Struga Municipality as a whole with its 50 surrounding villages is home to an Albanian majority.

In ancient time the city was known as Enchalon, which means eel (fishing eels in Drim river was very popular in Struga up until recently). The Via Egnatia road that connected Rome with Thesaloniki and Constantinople passed through Struga. The name Struga was used for the first time in a document in the 11th c, but it originates from the 7th c. The Byzantine travel writer Ana Komnina visited Struga in the 11th century and named it “City of 100 bridges”.

While the nearby Ohrid was always cultural and religious centre, Struga played the role of trading centre of the region. It still does and a visit on market day can be fun.

In the 19th century Struga played important part in the national revival as it was home town of Konstantin and Dimitar Miladinovi, brothers who collected and published a collection of folk songs (named "Folk songs from Macedonia") in 1862. Konstantin Miladinov wrote Sorrow for the south (also translated as 'Longing for the South') during his studies in Saint Petersburg. Today, in his honour, the biggest poetry festivals in the world is held in Struga every year.

  • The river Drim, which enters Ohrid lake in the St. Naum monastery, comes out in Struga after going through the whole lake.
  • Before the Drim had been blocked by several dams downstream of Struga, Lake Ohrid was home to a large population of eels. The annual run of the eels, when they left the lake en masse every fall, to spawn in the Atlantic Ocean, was a major event in Struga, where weirs were constructed to catch the fish. The towns' eel lore is celebrated in Luan Starova's novel The Path of Eels ("Патот на јагулите").
  • Vlado Maleski, a poet from Struga wrote the Macedonian national anthem "Denes nad Makedonija se raga". It was sung for the first time in Struga.
  • The Vasilica carnival in Vevčani village has been held on 14th & 15th of January for over 1500 years.

  • Old Bazaar, Marshal Tito St. is a straight street, and today has more cafes than shops. It ends with a lively market.
  • St. George Church, Marshal Tito St (On the end of 'Old Bazaar straight street' after the crossroad. This is a good example of revival period architecture built in 1835. The church is most famous for the St.George Icon painted in 1267, and considered miraculous as it was found in the lake. The only part of the city which has managed to preserve couple of old houses and atmosphere is along Goce Delcev Street left of the old bazaar. It starts with a lovely small stone house which once was a residence of church officials (notice the small altar of the chapel that once was in the house).
  • Traditional houses. there are couple of traditional houses preserved, including the so-called island house as it stands alone in the middle of a small square.
  • Halveti Teke. - is one of the most representative examples of Ottoman architecture in Struga and it is protected by the Macedonian Cultural Memorial Institute. The tekke (Muslim monastery) was established by Hasan Baba (Asan Dede) in the beginning of the 18th century and consists of five rooms in the shape of the letter T.
  • Miladinovci House. interesting examples of traditional architecture. The brothers were born and lived in this building, and today it serves as a museum dedicated to them.
  • Vangel Kodzoman Gallery. one of the most famous Macedonian painters of the 20th c. Checking out his paintings will show you Struga which unfortunately does not exist any more.
  • Nikola Nezlobinski Nature Museum, Niko Nestor Street, +389 46 786 664. The museum was founded in 1928 by Nikola Nezlobinski, a Russian doctor who lived and worked in Struga after the October Revolution, and who was the prototype of one of the main characters of Starova's "Path of the Eels".
  • Museum of Livadhia.

The all but abandoned mountain village of Gorna Belica West coast of Ohrid Lake

  • Kalishta cave monastery. It constitutes 3 churches: the main 17th century Holy Mother of God church, 13th century cave church built into the rock and smaller Saint Peter and Paul's church built in 1990.
  • St. Atanasie Cave Church. It has ancient frescoes which dates back to the 14th century. Some of them were painted in the 19th century as well.
  • Radozda village and St. Mihail cave church. A 14th century cave church built in the natural caves and decorated with frescoes. Away from the lake:
  • Vevčani village (NW 14 km)
  • Gorna Belica village. Picturesque mountain village 1,600 m above sea level on Jablanica Mountain. Settled by Vlachs (Aromanians) around 1730, the village in the present-day has few year-round residents. Nonetheless, many people maintain weekend homes in Gorna Belica.
  • Church of Saint Athanasius, village of Višni. Višni is an old village situation on the border with Albania. It is home to multiple churches and its main one was built in the 19th century, dedicated to Saint Athanasius. It was built of stone and features a dark wooden cupola. The village cemetery is situated in the church's courtyard. Just outside the village are natural springs worth a visit.
  • Church of the Ascension of Christ, village of Višni. This is a significant cave church just outside Višni, along a river canyon. It requires a decent uphill hike through woods and rocks but the pathway features railing for security. The date of construction isn't known but it is several centuries old; the frescoes date from the 14th century based on characteristics of the painting style. Unfortunately, due to high levels of moisture at this location, the frescoes are not well-preserved.
  • Church of the Introduction of the Virgin Mary, village of Vranište. In this large village sits a church dating from the 10th or 11th century. It is a small building built of stone but it features some interesting architectural features. It is surrounded by graves.
  • Church of Saint Nicholas, village of Vranište. This main church of Vranište was built prior to the 19th century with funds donated by an Ottoman official. The church features a dominant bell tower. In 2014, a museum was opened within the church complex that houses archaeological pieces, medieval icons, and more.

Kalishta cave monastery. It constitutes 3 churches: the main 17th century Holy Mother of God church, 13th century cave church built into the rock and smaller Saint Peter and Paul's church built in 1990.

St. Atanasie Cave Church. It has ancient frescoes which dates back to the 14th century. Some of them were painted in the 19th century as well.

Radozda village and St. Mihail cave church. A 14th century cave church built in the natural caves and decorated with frescoes.

[[Vevčani|Vevčani village]] (NW 14 km)

Gorna Belica village. Picturesque mountain village 1,600 m above sea level on Jablanica Mountain. Settled by Vlachs (Aromanians) around 1730, the village in the present-day has few year-round residents. Nonetheless, many people maintain weekend homes in Gorna Belica.

Church of Saint Athanasius, village of Višni. Višni is an old village situation on the border with Albania. It is home to multiple churches and its main one was built in the 19th century, dedicated to Saint Athanasius. It was built of stone and features a dark wooden cupola. The village cemetery is situated in the church's courtyard. Just outside the village are natural springs worth a visit.

Church of the Ascension of Christ, village of Višni. This is a significant cave church just outside Višni, along a river canyon. It requires a decent uphill hike through woods and rocks but the pathway features railing for security. The date of construction isn't known but it is several centuries old; the frescoes date from the 14th century based on characteristics of the painting style. Unfortunately, due to high levels of moisture at this location, the frescoes are not well-preserved.

Church of the Introduction of the Virgin Mary, village of Vranište. In this large village sits a church dating from the 10th or 11th century. It is a small building built of stone but it features some interesting architectural features. It is surrounded by graves.

Church of Saint Nicholas, village of Vranište. This main church of Vranište was built prior to the 19th century with funds donated by an Ottoman official. The church features a dominant bell tower. In 2014, a museum was opened within the church complex that houses archaeological pieces, medieval icons, and more.

Old Bazaar, Marshal Tito St. is a straight street, and today has more cafes than shops. It ends with a lively market.

St. George Church, Marshal Tito St (On the end of 'Old Bazaar straight street' after the crossroad. This is a good example of revival period architecture built in 1835. The church is most famous for the St.George Icon painted in 1267, and considered miraculous as it was found in the lake. The only part of the city which has managed to preserve couple of old houses and atmosphere is along Goce Delcev Street left of the old bazaar. It starts with a lovely small stone house which once was a residence of church officials (notice the small altar of the chapel that once was in the house).

Traditional houses. there are couple of traditional houses preserved, including the so-called island house as it stands alone in the middle of a small square.

Halveti Teke. - is one of the most representative examples of Ottoman architecture in Struga and it is protected by the Macedonian Cultural Memorial Institute. The tekke (Muslim monastery) was established by Hasan Baba (Asan Dede) in the beginning of the 18th century and consists of five rooms in the shape of the letter T.

Miladinovci House. interesting examples of traditional architecture. The brothers were born and lived in this building, and today it serves as a museum dedicated to them.

Vangel Kodzoman Gallery. one of the most famous Macedonian painters of the 20th c. Checking out his paintings will show you Struga which unfortunately does not exist any more.

Nikola Nezlobinski Nature Museum, Niko Nestor Street, +389 46 786 664. The museum was founded in 1928 by Nikola Nezlobinski, a Russian doctor who lived and worked in Struga after the October Revolution, and who was the prototype of one of the main characters of Starova's "Path of the Eels".

Museum of Livadhia.

  • Struga Poetry Evenings. The international poetry festival held in the summer (usually, in the second half of August) every year since 1966. There are two rewards given, one for lifetime achievement, and one for a young poet (if you have just published your first book of poetry, send it to UNESCO as they decide who gets this award). There has been a wide number of notable recipients over the years.
  • Guided hikes by Mountaineering Club Struga. They often organize hiking tours in region. They usually charge a small amount for transportation and 2-4 € for participation.

Struga Poetry Evenings. The international poetry festival held in the summer (usually, in the second half of August) every year since 1966. There are two rewards given, one for lifetime achievement, and one for a young poet (if you have just published your first book of poetry, send it to UNESCO as they decide who gets this award). There has been a wide number of notable recipients over the years.

Guided hikes by Mountaineering Club Struga. They often organize hiking tours in region. They usually charge a small amount for transportation and 2-4 € for participation.

  • Klimetica, +389 755-178.
  • T'ga Za Jug, +389 46 788741.
  • Dardania, +389 46 785088.
  • Sv.Nikola, Goce Delcev 88, +389 70 362720. Macedonian national restaurant where you can find the most amazing national food. The location of this restaurant is very good, next to the river Drim, where you can enjoy food and relaxing music.
  • Restaurant Aquarius, Vlado Malevski, 6330 Ustrugha, Struga, Republic of North Macedonia, +38946787290. 10:00 AM - 12:00 AM, Sun - Sat.
  • Versus Beach Bar, +389 46 788 200. Monday-Sunday 9.00 - 01.00 A.M.

Klimetica, +389 755-178.

T'ga Za Jug, +389 46 788741.

Dardania, +389 46 785088.

Sv.Nikola, Goce Delcev 88, +389 70 362720. Macedonian national restaurant where you can find the most amazing national food. The location of this restaurant is very good, next to the river Drim, where you can enjoy food and relaxing music.

Restaurant Aquarius, Vlado Malevski, 6330 Ustrugha, Struga, Republic of North Macedonia, +38946787290. 10:00 AM - 12:00 AM, Sun - Sat.

Versus Beach Bar, +389 46 788 200. Monday-Sunday 9.00 - 01.00 A.M.

  • Ohrid, the most famous city on Lake Ohrid, is just 15 km away and full of culture.
  • Shebenik-Jabllanice National Park is a mountainous national park just across the border in Albania.
  • Elbasan, Albania