Tbilisi

Tbilisi (Georgian: თბილისი), archaic spelling Tiflis, is the capital city of the country of Georgia, lying on the banks of the Mtkvari River. The city covers an area of 726 km² (280.3 square miles) and has a population of approximately 1,345,000.

Tbilisi lies in the centre of eastern Georgia, in the foothills of the Trialeti mountain range. According to Georgian legends, it was founded in the 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali who, while hunting, shot a pheasant which fell into a warm spring and was either boiled or healed. Either way, the king was inspired to found a city on the site, and the name of the city derives from the Georgian word tbili meaning "warm". Although the city has been destroyed and rebuilt 29 times, the layout of the Old Town is largely intact with narrow alleys and big crooked houses built around courtyards.

Tbilisi experiences relatively cold winters and hot summers. Because the city is bounded on most sides by mountain ranges, the close proximity to large bodies of water (Black and Caspian Seas) and the fact that the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range (further to the north) blocks the intrusion of cold air masses from Russia, Tbilisi has a relatively mild micro-climate compared to other cities that possess a similar continental climate along the same latitudes. The average annual temperature in Tbilisi is 12.7 °C (54.9 °F). January is the coldest month with an average temperature of 0.9 °C (33.6 °F). July is the hottest month with an average temperature of 24.4 °C (75.9 °F). The absolute minimum recorded temperature is −24 °C (−11 °F) and the absolute maximum is 40 °C (104 °F). Average annual precipitation is 568 mm (22.4 in). May and June are the wettest months (averaging 84 mm (3.3 in) of precipitation each) while January is the driest (averaging 20 mm (0.8 in) of precipitation). Snow falls on average 15–25 days per year. The surrounding mountains often trap the clouds within and around the city, mainly during the Spring and Autumn months, resulting in prolonged rainy and/or cloudy weather. Northwesterly winds dominate in most parts of Tbilisi throughout the year. Southeasterly winds are common as well.

• Tourism Office, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Ave (north side of the square. Daily 09:00-21:00. They provide a free, very detailed booklet with city map.

Tourism Office, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Ave (north side of the square. Daily 09:00-21:00. They provide a free, very detailed booklet with city map.

• The Georgian National Museum is the umbrella organisation for a dozen museums and other sites in Tbilisi and elsewhere, with practical info in English. Usually they charge 7 lari for an adult, and are closed Mondays.
• Open Air Museum of Ethnography, Kus Tba 1 (1 Turtle Lake Road, Tortoise pond lane) კუსტბის გზა #1) (Bus 59 from Metro Rustaveli; Bus 9 from station square and a little walk up, +995 32 2729045. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. "Skansen"-type museum with 70 houses and other buildings characteristic of the various parts of Georgia, plus household gadgetry and craft tools. The houses are in variable states of repair, some are tumbledown but especially those near the entry gate are okay and with helpful docents. Allow a half day for a visit, a quiet escape from the city. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari, guided tour 10 lari.
• Museum of Fine Arts, 1 Gudiashvili Street (Metro: Liberty Sq., +995 32 999909. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Large permanent collection from antiquity to present. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari.
• Tbilisi History Museum, * 8 Sioni St, +995 32 2982281. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari.
• Museum of Georgia, 3 Shota Rustaveli avenue (Metro: Freedom Square 200 m, +995 32 299 8022. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum, the Museum of Georgia houses Caucasian artefacts of archaeology and ethnography. A permanent exposition follows developments from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century. Gold was mined and worked here from a very early date - it was probably the origin of the "Golden Fleece" legend - so the area developed its own style, which influenced Achaemenid and Hellenistic jewellery. The most valuable exhibits include Homo ergaster fossils discovered at Dmanisi; the Akhalgori hoard of the 5th century BC; a collection of 80,000 coins chiefly of Georgian minting; medieval icons and goldsmith pieces collected from various sites in Georgia; and a lapidary with a rich collection of Urartian inscriptions.
  Nominally a separate Museum of Soviet Occupation, but simply the 4th floor of the same building, depicts Georgia's treatment at the hands of its neighbour, from 19th-century tsarist expansion through Soviet times to the conflict over Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Adults 7 lari, students 1 lari, guided tour in English 45 lari.
• Puppet Museum, 17 Shavteli N St (Metro Freedom Square, +995 32 995337. Apr-Oct: Tu–Su 11:00–18:00, Nov-Mar: Tu–Su 11:00–17:00. Several visitors in summer 2018 found it closed. Adults 3 lari; children 1 lari.
• Galaktion Tabidze Museum, Marjanishvili N 4 (Metro Marjanishvili. Tu–Su 11:00–18:00. The museum of the eminent Georgian poet, Galaktion Tabidze (1892-1959).
• National Gallery, 11 Shota Rustaveli Av (Metro: Freedom Square, +995 32 2157300. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Extensive permanent collection, plus rotating exhibitions usually featuring Georgian artists. Adult 7 lari.
• State Academy of Arts, 3 Gudiashvili Street. It's a working university, not a public gallery, but you may be able to peek in at the historic buildings.
• Jewish History Museum, 3 St. Anton Catholicos. Su-F 11:00-17:00. Depicts the Jews in Georgia from earliest historic times to the present day. Rabbi David Baazov (1883-1947) was sent to Siberia during Stalin's purges, and his son was shot, but he survived to return to Tbilisi. The museum collection became a diaspora (notably to Rochester, Minnesota) but has been repatriated.
• U. Japaridze House-Museum, Shio Mghvimeli St, #2 (North — Bus 6, 9, 14, 21, 31, 34, 37, 42, 46, 51, 59, 61, 66, 78, 87 to 'Janashia Street', off Iakob Nikoladze St. Tu-Su 11:00-18:00. Part of Georgian National Museum. Home of distinguished painter Ucha Japaridze (1906-1988). Adult 3 lari.
• E. Akhvlediani House-Museum, 12 Leo Kiacheli St. (Metro Rustaveli 200 m. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Showcases the work of painter Elene Akhvlediani (1898-1975). Adult 3 lari, student 1 lari.
• Open air carriage exhibition, Zviad Gamsakhurdia Named Right Bank (in front of the Public House, shaped as a mushroom, in the middle treed strip in the busy road. In a strip of garden in the middle of a busy road, there are several carriages and wine making tools in exhibit. Free.

The Georgian National Museum is the umbrella organisation for a dozen museums and other sites in Tbilisi and elsewhere, with practical info in English. Usually they charge 7 lari for an adult, and are closed Mondays.

Open Air Museum of Ethnography, Kus Tba 1 (1 Turtle Lake Road, Tortoise pond lane) კუსტბის გზა #1) (Bus 59 from Metro Rustaveli; Bus 9 from station square and a little walk up, +995 32 2729045. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. "Skansen"-type museum with 70 houses and other buildings characteristic of the various parts of Georgia, plus household gadgetry and craft tools. The houses are in variable states of repair, some are tumbledown but especially those near the entry gate are okay and with helpful docents. Allow a half day for a visit, a quiet escape from the city. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari, guided tour 10 lari.

Museum of Fine Arts, 1 Gudiashvili Street (Metro: Liberty Sq., +995 32 999909. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Large permanent collection from antiquity to present. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari.

Tbilisi History Museum, * 8 Sioni St, +995 32 2982281. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Adults 3 lari, students 1 lari.

Museum of Georgia, 3 Shota Rustaveli avenue (Metro: Freedom Square 200 m, +995 32 299 8022. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum, the Museum of Georgia houses Caucasian artefacts of archaeology and ethnography. A permanent exposition follows developments from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century. Gold was mined and worked here from a very early date - it was probably the origin of the "Golden Fleece" legend - so the area developed its own style, which influenced Achaemenid and Hellenistic jewellery. The most valuable exhibits include Homo ergaster fossils discovered at Dmanisi; the Akhalgori hoard of the 5th century BC; a collection of 80,000 coins chiefly of Georgian minting; medieval icons and goldsmith pieces collected from various sites in Georgia; and a lapidary with a rich collection of Urartian inscriptions.
Nominally a separate Museum of Soviet Occupation, but simply the 4th floor of the same building, depicts Georgia's treatment at the hands of its neighbour, from 19th-century tsarist expansion through Soviet times to the conflict over Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Adults 7 lari, students 1 lari, guided tour in English 45 lari.

Puppet Museum, 17 Shavteli N St (Metro Freedom Square, +995 32 995337. Apr-Oct: Tu–Su 11:00–18:00, Nov-Mar: Tu–Su 11:00–17:00. Several visitors in summer 2018 found it closed. Adults 3 lari; children 1 lari.

Galaktion Tabidze Museum, Marjanishvili N 4 (Metro Marjanishvili. Tu–Su 11:00–18:00. The museum of the eminent Georgian poet, Galaktion Tabidze (1892-1959).

National Gallery, 11 Shota Rustaveli Av (Metro: Freedom Square, +995 32 2157300. Tu–Su 10:00–18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Extensive permanent collection, plus rotating exhibitions usually featuring Georgian artists. Adult 7 lari.

State Academy of Arts, 3 Gudiashvili Street. It's a working university, not a public gallery, but you may be able to peek in at the historic buildings.

Jewish History Museum, 3 St. Anton Catholicos. Su-F 11:00-17:00. Depicts the Jews in Georgia from earliest historic times to the present day. Rabbi David Baazov (1883-1947) was sent to Siberia during Stalin's purges, and his son was shot, but he survived to return to Tbilisi. The museum collection became a diaspora (notably to Rochester, Minnesota) but has been repatriated.

U. Japaridze House-Museum, Shio Mghvimeli St, #2 (North — Bus 6, 9, 14, 21, 31, 34, 37, 42, 46, 51, 59, 61, 66, 78, 87 to 'Janashia Street', off Iakob Nikoladze St. Tu-Su 11:00-18:00. Part of Georgian National Museum. Home of distinguished painter Ucha Japaridze (1906-1988). Adult 3 lari.

E. Akhvlediani House-Museum, 12 Leo Kiacheli St. (Metro Rustaveli 200 m. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Part of the Georgian National Museum. Showcases the work of painter Elene Akhvlediani (1898-1975). Adult 3 lari, student 1 lari.

Open air carriage exhibition, Zviad Gamsakhurdia Named Right Bank (in front of the Public House, shaped as a mushroom, in the middle treed strip in the busy road. In a strip of garden in the middle of a busy road, there are several carriages and wine making tools in exhibit. Free.

• Mamadaviti, Mtatsminda Pantheon (on Mtatsminda hill. Constructed in 1859–1871, domed in 1879.
• Sioni Church, Sioni street (სიონის ქ.) #6 (upper Kala, from Metro Freedom Square 0.8 km south-east or from Metro Avlabari 0.7 km west.
• Sameba Cathedral, Samreklo Street (on Elia Hill. 1 km north from Avlabari metro station. Constructed between 1995 and 2004, it is the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world. Sameba is a synthesis of traditional styles dominating the Georgian church architecture at various stages in history and has some Byzantine undertones. The Sameba Cathedral was erected on the Elia Hill, which rises above the left bank of the Kura River (Mtkvari) in the historic neighborhood of Avlabari in Old Tbilisi on the grounds of what was once a park, and before that the largest Armenian cemetery in Tbilisi, a tiny portion of that cemetery now forms the Armenian Pantheon. Designed in a traditional Georgian style but with an exaggerated vertical emphasis, and regarded as an eyesore by many and venerated by as many others, the Sameba Cathedral has a cruciform plan with a dome over a crossing which rests on eight columns. At the same time, the parameters of the dome are independent from the apses, imparting a more monumental look to the dome and the church in general. The dome is surmounted by a 7.5-m-tall cross covered with gold. The cathedral consists of nine chapels (chapels of the Archangels, John the Baptist, Saint Nino, Saint George, Saint Nicholas, the Twelve Apostles, and All Saints); five of them are situated in a large, underground compartment. The overall area of the cathedral, including its large narthex, is 0.5 ha and the volume it occupies is 137 m³. The interior of the church measures 56 m × 44 m, with an interior area of 2,380 m². The height of the cathedral from the ground to the top of the cross is 105.5 m. The underground chapel occupies 35,550 m³. The height is 13 m. Natural materials are used for construction. The floor is made of marble tiles and the altar will also be decorated with mosaic. The painting of the murals is being executed by a group of artists guided by Amiran Goglidze. The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedral church, a free-standing bell-tower, the residence of the Patriarch, a monastery, a clerical seminary and theological academy, several workshops, places for rest, etc.
• Metekhi Church ("Church of Assumption"), Metekhis Rise (მეტეხის აღმართი) (Metro Avlabari. Goes back to the reign of St. Demeritus II. late 13th century. Rebuilt 17th century. Unusual in design.
• Ascension Catholic Church of the Virgin Mary?, Gia Abesadze St (აბესაძის ქ.) #6 (Metro Metro Station Freedom Square. The church was built, which starts from the 13th century. The church is an example of eclectic architecture and has been built with pseudo-gothic and Baroco elements. The interior is decorated with thematic vitrages. Height: 23 m.
• Anchiskhati ("Basilica of St. Mary"), Ioane Shavteli St, 18 (Metro Freedom Square. Constructed began at the time of king Dachi Ujarmeli in the 6th century. This is the oldest church in town. Anchiskhati Basilica is a three-span basilica, divided by two abutments forming horseshoe shaped conches, which indicates the antiquity of its construction. Originally constructed of blocks of yellow tuff stone, the 1958–1964 restoration made extensive use of brick. The structure has entrances on three sides, but today only the western entrance is in use. Aside from the altarpiece, which was painted in 1683 by order of Catholicos Nikoloz Amilakhvari, all of the remaining paintings in the church date from the 19th century.
• Narikala Church, Orbiri St (Narikala Castle.
• Kashveti Church of St. George, Shota Rustaveli Avenue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #9 (Metro Freedom Square. A copy of 11th-century Samtavisi church. The Kashveti church was constructed between 1904 and 1910 by the architect L. Bilfeldt, who based his design on the medieval Samtavisi Cathedral. The construction was sponsored by the Georgian nobility and bourgeoisie. Kashveti was built on the site of a damaged church built of brick at the request of the Amilakhvari family in 1753. Significant contributions to the current church’s ornate design were made by N. Agladze. Kashveti’s frescoes were painted by the influential Georgian painter, Lado Gudiashvili, in 1947. The name "Kashveti" is derived from Georgian words kva for a "stone" and shva "to give birth." Legend has it the prominent 6th century monk David of Gareja of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers was accused by a woman of making her a pregnant in Tbilisi. David prophesied his denial would be proved when she gave birth to a stone. She did, and the place received the name of "kashveti."
• Synagogue, K. Leselidze street, 4? or Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) #41 (Metro Freedom Square. Functioning synagogue constructed in 1910. Women and men are seated separately.
• Jumah Mosque, Botanikuri (Abanotubani, ბოტანიკურის ქ.) #32. Turkish Sunni mosque, along the road from the Botanical Gardens to the Sulphur Baths. The usual dress code and entry restrictions for non-Muslims apply.
• Holy Trinity Church, Erosi Manjgaladze Turn, Abashidze Street (აბაშიძის ქ.) # 4 (Metro: Freedom Square.
• Alex. Nevskiy Orthodox Church, Marjanishvili Street, ~53.
• Armenian Cathedral of S. Gevorg, 5 Samghebro St. (At Meydan Square, +995 322754111. Built in 1251 AD, and seat of the Armenian Archbishop of Georgia. Tomb of the famous Caucasian bard Sayat-Nova is in front of the church. free.
• Norashen Armenian Church, Afkhazi Street. Boarded up Armenian Church, used as a library in Soviet times. It was built in 1487, with a lot of new work in the mid-1600s.
• Church of Fathers' Cross?, Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) # 42.
• Upper and Lower Bethlehem churches.
• George Church, Bethlehem Street (ბეთლემის ქ.) #7.
• Michael Tvereli church, Zaldastanishvili Street (ს. ზალდასტანიშვილის ქ.) #38.
• Echmiadzin Armenian Church. Built in 1805, and later renovated. free.

Mamadaviti, Mtatsminda Pantheon (on Mtatsminda hill. Constructed in 1859–1871, domed in 1879.

Sioni Church, Sioni street (სიონის ქ.) #6 (upper Kala, from Metro Freedom Square 0.8 km south-east or from Metro Avlabari 0.7 km west.

Sameba Cathedral, Samreklo Street (on Elia Hill. 1 km north from Avlabari metro station. Constructed between 1995 and 2004, it is the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world. Sameba is a synthesis of traditional styles dominating the Georgian church architecture at various stages in history and has some Byzantine undertones. The Sameba Cathedral was erected on the Elia Hill, which rises above the left bank of the Kura River (Mtkvari) in the historic neighborhood of Avlabari in Old Tbilisi on the grounds of what was once a park, and before that the largest Armenian cemetery in Tbilisi, a tiny portion of that cemetery now forms the Armenian Pantheon. Designed in a traditional Georgian style but with an exaggerated vertical emphasis, and regarded as an eyesore by many and venerated by as many others, the Sameba Cathedral has a cruciform plan with a dome over a crossing which rests on eight columns. At the same time, the parameters of the dome are independent from the apses, imparting a more monumental look to the dome and the church in general. The dome is surmounted by a 7.5-m-tall cross covered with gold. The cathedral consists of nine chapels (chapels of the Archangels, John the Baptist, Saint Nino, Saint George, Saint Nicholas, the Twelve Apostles, and All Saints); five of them are situated in a large, underground compartment. The overall area of the cathedral, including its large narthex, is 0.5 ha and the volume it occupies is 137 m³. The interior of the church measures 56 m × 44 m, with an interior area of 2,380 m². The height of the cathedral from the ground to the top of the cross is 105.5 m. The underground chapel occupies 35,550 m³. The height is 13 m. Natural materials are used for construction. The floor is made of marble tiles and the altar will also be decorated with mosaic. The painting of the murals is being executed by a group of artists guided by Amiran Goglidze. The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedral church, a free-standing bell-tower, the residence of the Patriarch, a monastery, a clerical seminary and theological academy, several workshops, places for rest, etc.

Metekhi Church ("Church of Assumption"), Metekhis Rise (მეტეხის აღმართი) (Metro Avlabari. Goes back to the reign of St. Demeritus II. late 13th century. Rebuilt 17th century. Unusual in design.

Ascension Catholic Church of the Virgin Mary?, Gia Abesadze St (აბესაძის ქ.) #6 (Metro Metro Station Freedom Square. The church was built, which starts from the 13th century. The church is an example of eclectic architecture and has been built with pseudo-gothic and Baroco elements. The interior is decorated with thematic vitrages. Height: 23 m.

Anchiskhati ("Basilica of St. Mary"), Ioane Shavteli St, 18 (Metro Freedom Square. Constructed began at the time of king Dachi Ujarmeli in the 6th century. This is the oldest church in town. Anchiskhati Basilica is a three-span basilica, divided by two abutments forming horseshoe shaped conches, which indicates the antiquity of its construction. Originally constructed of blocks of yellow tuff stone, the 1958–1964 restoration made extensive use of brick. The structure has entrances on three sides, but today only the western entrance is in use. Aside from the altarpiece, which was painted in 1683 by order of Catholicos Nikoloz Amilakhvari, all of the remaining paintings in the church date from the 19th century.

Narikala Church, Orbiri St (Narikala Castle.

Kashveti Church of St. George, Shota Rustaveli Avenue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #9 (Metro Freedom Square. A copy of 11th-century Samtavisi church. The Kashveti church was constructed between 1904 and 1910 by the architect L. Bilfeldt, who based his design on the medieval Samtavisi Cathedral. The construction was sponsored by the Georgian nobility and bourgeoisie. Kashveti was built on the site of a damaged church built of brick at the request of the Amilakhvari family in 1753. Significant contributions to the current church’s ornate design were made by N. Agladze. Kashveti’s frescoes were painted by the influential Georgian painter, Lado Gudiashvili, in 1947. The name "Kashveti" is derived from Georgian words kva for a "stone" and shva "to give birth." Legend has it the prominent 6th century monk David of Gareja of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers was accused by a woman of making her a pregnant in Tbilisi. David prophesied his denial would be proved when she gave birth to a stone. She did, and the place received the name of "kashveti."

Synagogue, K. Leselidze street, 4? or Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) #41 (Metro Freedom Square. Functioning synagogue constructed in 1910. Women and men are seated separately.

Jumah Mosque, Botanikuri (Abanotubani, ბოტანიკურის ქ.) #32. Turkish Sunni mosque, along the road from the Botanical Gardens to the Sulphur Baths. The usual dress code and entry restrictions for non-Muslims apply.

Holy Trinity Church, Erosi Manjgaladze Turn, Abashidze Street (აბაშიძის ქ.) # 4 (Metro: Freedom Square.

Alex. Nevskiy Orthodox Church, Marjanishvili Street, ~53.

Armenian Cathedral of S. Gevorg, 5 Samghebro St. (At Meydan Square, +995 322754111. Built in 1251 AD, and seat of the Armenian Archbishop of Georgia. Tomb of the famous Caucasian bard Sayat-Nova is in front of the church. free.

Norashen Armenian Church, Afkhazi Street. Boarded up Armenian Church, used as a library in Soviet times. It was built in 1487, with a lot of new work in the mid-1600s.

Church of Fathers' Cross?, Abkhazians Street.(კ. აფხაზის ქ.) # 42.

Upper and Lower Bethlehem churches.

George Church, Bethlehem Street (ბეთლემის ქ.) #7.

Michael Tvereli church, Zaldastanishvili Street (ს. ზალდასტანიშვილის ქ.) #38.

Echmiadzin Armenian Church. Built in 1805, and later renovated. free.

• Chronicle of Georgia. An impressive memorial with a great view across Tbilisi and its lake. Also, an interesting walk through some past architecture. It consists of a number of huge statues and 16 30- to 35-m-tall columns at the top, and a portrait of the life of Christ at the bottom part. There is also a chapel and a St. Nino cross. It was originally designed by Zurab Tsereteli in 1985 but never really finished. A hidden gem that many who have been here recommend to see.
• Mother Georgia Monument, Sololakis Alley (სოლოლაკის ხეივანი). A 20-metre aluminium figure of a woman in Georgian national dress, erected on the Sololaki hill in 1958, Tbilisi's 1,500th birthday and designed by Elguja Amashukeli.
• Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and Public Figures. Many famous writers, and the mother of Joseph Stalin, are buried here.
• Old Tbilisi. Perhaps one of the most distinctive pleasures of walking through the Old City, with its old-style balconies, ancient churches, winding streets, and charming shops. Be prepared to see a number of eclectic sights, from the abandoned streetcar near Erekle Street to the art galleries of Chardini Street to the stunning modern art lining Sioni Street. Sub-neighborhoods include Sololaki, with its elegant restaurants and art nouveau architecture, Old Tbilisi proper — with sites ranging from churches to mosques to sulfur baths, Betlemi — housing two of the city's oldest churches and the stunning vistas of the Narikala Fortress — and Mtsasminda, just up the mountain from Rustaveli Avenues, a more sedate, "livable" district filled with charming old houses and a number of families. A large section has been refurbished in recent years turning parts into a sterile, tourist-trade and therefore purely overly consumption attuned quarter. Bars and restaurants largely overpriced. Even Segway rental is available — given the state of Tbilisi pavements, a ridiculous proposition.
• Vake Park Area, around Chavchavadze and Abashidze avenues (from MetroDelisi to south 1.5 km. This is one of Tbilisi's posher districts, home to many expats and nouveaux riches. While not quite as atmospheric as Old Tbilisi, Vake is home to some lovely parks, pleasant nineteenth-century architecture, and some of the city's most high-end shopping, including luxury furniture store Missioni. There are also plenty of elegant, if understated, bars and restaurants in this area. In Vake there are two buildings of Ivane Javakhishvili Tbilisi state university. The university is founded by Ivane Javakhishvili in 1918 and is one of the historical buildings in Tbilisi.
• Shota Rustaveli monument, - Shota Rustaveli Square (შოთა რუსთაველის მოედანი).
• Gudiashvili monument, - April 9 Garden (9 აპრილის ბაღი) (Metro Liberty Square;.
• Ietim Gurji monument, Right bank (მტკვრის მარჯვენა სანაპირო).

Chronicle of Georgia. An impressive memorial with a great view across Tbilisi and its lake. Also, an interesting walk through some past architecture. It consists of a number of huge statues and 16 30- to 35-m-tall columns at the top, and a portrait of the life of Christ at the bottom part. There is also a chapel and a St. Nino cross. It was originally designed by Zurab Tsereteli in 1985 but never really finished. A hidden gem that many who have been here recommend to see.

Mother Georgia Monument, Sololakis Alley (სოლოლაკის ხეივანი). A 20-metre aluminium figure of a woman in Georgian national dress, erected on the Sololaki hill in 1958, Tbilisi's 1,500th birthday and designed by Elguja Amashukeli.

Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and Public Figures. Many famous writers, and the mother of Joseph Stalin, are buried here.

Old Tbilisi. Perhaps one of the most distinctive pleasures of walking through the Old City, with its old-style balconies, ancient churches, winding streets, and charming shops. Be prepared to see a number of eclectic sights, from the abandoned streetcar near Erekle Street to the art galleries of Chardini Street to the stunning modern art lining Sioni Street. Sub-neighborhoods include Sololaki, with its elegant restaurants and art nouveau architecture, Old Tbilisi proper — with sites ranging from churches to mosques to sulfur baths, Betlemi — housing two of the city's oldest churches and the stunning vistas of the Narikala Fortress — and Mtsasminda, just up the mountain from Rustaveli Avenues, a more sedate, "livable" district filled with charming old houses and a number of families. A large section has been refurbished in recent years turning parts into a sterile, tourist-trade and therefore purely overly consumption attuned quarter. Bars and restaurants largely overpriced. Even Segway rental is available — given the state of Tbilisi pavements, a ridiculous proposition.

Vake Park Area, around Chavchavadze and Abashidze avenues (from MetroDelisi to south 1.5 km. This is one of Tbilisi's posher districts, home to many expats and nouveaux riches. While not quite as atmospheric as Old Tbilisi, Vake is home to some lovely parks, pleasant nineteenth-century architecture, and some of the city's most high-end shopping, including luxury furniture store Missioni. There are also plenty of elegant, if understated, bars and restaurants in this area. In Vake there are two buildings of Ivane Javakhishvili Tbilisi state university. The university is founded by Ivane Javakhishvili in 1918 and is one of the historical buildings in Tbilisi.

Shota Rustaveli monument, - Shota Rustaveli Square (შოთა რუსთაველის მოედანი).

Gudiashvili monument, - April 9 Garden (9 აპრილის ბაღი) (Metro Liberty Square;.

Ietim Gurji monument, Right bank (მტკვრის მარჯვენა სანაპირო).

• Georgian National Academy of Sciences, Shota Rustaveli Ave. (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ), #48 / Rustaveli Square (Metro Rustaveli.
• City Hall, Freedom square (Tavisupleba square, თავისუფლების მოედანი), 2. Before City Hall stay the Monument of St. George
• National Bank of Georgia, Leonidze Street.( ლეონიძის ქ.) № 3/5.
• Georgian National Youth Palace, Shota Rustaveli Ave. #6.
• Parliament, Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #8.
• Presidential Palace, M. Abdushevelli 1 (Metro Avlabari. Inaugurated in summer 2009, an architectural monstrosity above the river, designed by Italian architect Michele De Luki. Guided tours may be booked seven work days in advance.
• House of Melik-Azaryants, - Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.) #37 (Metro: Rustaveli.
• House of the Officers, - Shota Rustaveli Ave. #16 (Metro: Liberty Square.
• Theatre and Film University, - Shota Rustaveli Ave. #19 (Metro Liberty Square.
• Library of the Parliament, Lado Gudiashvili Street. (ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ.) #3 (Metro Liberty Square.
• Caucasian House, Galaktion Tabidze Street.( გალაკტიონის ქ.) #20 (Metro Liberty Square 400 m, +995 595548608. Also an accommodation.
• Government Chancellery, P. Ingorokva Street.(პ. ინგოროყვას ქ.) #7 (Metro: Liberty Square.
• House of Writers, I l According Street ( ი. მაჩაბლის ქ.) #11.

Nearby (50-150 km) popular sights that allow for a day trip from Tbilisi are Mtskheta, Uplistsikhe, David Gareja Monastery Complex, Dmanisi archaeological site, Sighnaghi and Rustavi with its Sioni Church and the Auto Trade Center, the biggest market for used cars in the Caucasus.

Georgian National Academy of Sciences, Shota Rustaveli Ave. (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ), #48 / Rustaveli Square (Metro Rustaveli.

City Hall, Freedom square (Tavisupleba square, თავისუფლების მოედანი), 2. Before City Hall stay the Monument of St. George

National Bank of Georgia, Leonidze Street.( ლეონიძის ქ.) № 3/5.

Georgian National Youth Palace, Shota Rustaveli Ave. #6.

Parliament, Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #8.

Presidential Palace, M. Abdushevelli 1 (Metro Avlabari. Inaugurated in summer 2009, an architectural monstrosity above the river, designed by Italian architect Michele De Luki. Guided tours may be booked seven work days in advance.

House of Melik-Azaryants, - Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.) #37 (Metro: Rustaveli.

House of the Officers, - Shota Rustaveli Ave. #16 (Metro: Liberty Square.

Theatre and Film University, - Shota Rustaveli Ave. #19 (Metro Liberty Square.

Library of the Parliament, Lado Gudiashvili Street. (ლ. გუდიაშვილის ქ.) #3 (Metro Liberty Square.

Caucasian House, Galaktion Tabidze Street.( გალაკტიონის ქ.) #20 (Metro Liberty Square 400 m, +995 595548608. Also an accommodation.

Government Chancellery, P. Ingorokva Street.(პ. ინგოროყვას ქ.) #7 (Metro: Liberty Square.

House of Writers, I l According Street ( ი. მაჩაბლის ქ.) #11.

• Sulphur Baths, Bath Street (აბანოს ქუჩა) (from Metro Avlabari 1 km SW, south side of the Metekhi bridge. The main bath district is easy to spot with its small domes on ground level. There are several small baths offering different levels of comfort. The baths are relatively small, and you may have to wait for a pool to become available. English service is not guaranteed. Massages are available; however, they are more like a washing, but well worth it for the experience. You should bring your own towel and beach sandals but also they are available for a small fee, but pricey compared to the 3 lari if you use the public bath. Some travellers have suggested the Royal Baths is a much better alternative to Sulphur Baths (they are next to each other). Sulphur baths tend to double the price at the end of the massage and bath in spite of your original agreed price. Private pool: 50–200 lari/hr; massage/scrub 5–20 lari.

  * Bath No. 5. This is the only public bath in this area right at the beginning, follow the neon light. It is definitely worth the experience, so do not miss it. The men's section has a central shower area, a hot pool and a sauna. The women's public section only provides showers and massage, and are probably not worth it. 5 lari/hr, bring thongs and towel or it's extra.

  * Bagni Sulfurei Zolfo. An old, and characteristic bath. You can find this sulphur baths near Station Square. Upstairs is a men's sauna for 7 lari, but it is also a gay hangout. In the evening you can get a private bath there. 7 lari, private bath 10 lari, additional towel 2 lari.

• Turtle Lake (Kus T'ba). This lake is in the hilly outskirts of Tbilisi. A popular weekend getaway for families, the lake offers pedal-boat rentals as well as swimming (deckchairs optional) for reasonable prices (swimming entry, without deckchair, is about 3 lari). Alright for a hot summer day, and offering views of the mountains and of the city below. Snackbars, restaurants and fruit cocktail shakers are available overlooking the lake. It's about an hour's pleasant walk from the Saburtalo district along country roads, passing the Ethnographical Museum, or a 10-15 minute (5–10 lari) cab ride from the center. While the lake itself isn't particularly nice, the views from the hike up to the lake makes it a worthwhile excursion.
• Lake Lisi (Lisis T'ba), Reservoir Road (5.1 km SW-W. Much further out than Turtle Lake (a cab will set you back about 10–15 lari each way), Lake Lisi is much larger and more remote, with long, winding mountain walks surrounding the lake. Unlike Turtle Lake, the entire Lake Lisi is opened up for swimmers. Be warned — there aren't always taxis waiting to take you back.
• Climb up to the Narikala Fortress. The crumbling ruins of this once-great fortress, standing alongside the Upper Betelmi Churches and the stunning Botanical gardens, offer panoramic views of the city below. It's quite a steep climb, though you could take the cable car instead. Also while the lack of bureaucracy and guard-rails can be liberating for some, you may want to watch your step.
• Botanical garden, Botanikuri str. N1 (access via Botanikuri St., or from above through the fortress. Nearest Metro Avalabari. There is another entrance a little south (coming from the Transfiguration monastery), as well as from the top at Mother of Georgia's—pay on your way out., +995 322724306. 09:00-18:30. National botanic garden of Georgia, founded in 1845. Lying in the Tsavkisis-Tskali Gorge near Narikala Fortress. The garden is big and inconsistently maintained. Some nice parts are the Waterfall and the path along the creek upstream in the Mediterranean collection. Also the Parterre in a Central Park is a hidden gem. A fun zipline for over 150 cm tall and under 110 kg sliders is available for 40 lari. 4 lari (adults).

• Mtatsminda park. Bus until 23:00. to have fun with your kids, see the views of Tbilisi or to take a ride on the ferris wheel. You need to buy an access card at a cashiers desk for 2 lari. Funicular ride is also 3 lari one way and you use the access card for that.
• Alexander's Garden, Dry Bridge Area (მშრალი ხიდი) (Metro: Freedom Square. A part of Park April.
• Locomotive Stadium, +995 551536854.
• Vake Swimming Pool, Chavchavadze Avenue (ჭავჭავაძის გამზირი).
• Paragliding around Tbilisi. Find yourself (and your pilot) hanging in the sky with the clouds staring at the gorgeous sprawling Georgian Caucasus mountains below you.
• Watch football (soccer) at FC Dinamo Tbilisi, who play in Erovnuli Liga, the top tier of Georgian football. Their home ground is Dinamo Arena, capacity 54,500, east of the river near the main railway station. The soccer season in Georgia runs Feb to Nov with a winter break.

• Alexander Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre, Rustaveli Av. 2 (M1 Liberty Square 200 m, +995 32 293 58 11.
• Gabriadze Theatre, Shavteli 13 (M1 'Liberty Square' 500 m, +995 32 2986590.
• Tbilisi Opera and Ballet State Theatre, Rustaveli Avenue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 25. Beautiful opera house in neo-moorish building. Opera founded in 1851. Tickets (for some shows?) can be bought online at .
• Rustaveli National Theater, Rustaveli Avenue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 17.
• Cinema Rustaveli, Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #5 (M1 Liberty Square 200 m.
• Tbilisi State Conservatory, Al.Griboyedov Street. ( ალ. გრიბოედოვის ქ.) #8-10 (M1 Liberty Square 500 m.

Alexander Griboedov Russian State Drama Theatre, Rustaveli Av. 2 (M1 Liberty Square 200 m, +995 32 293 58 11.

Gabriadze Theatre, Shavteli 13 (M1 'Liberty Square' 500 m, +995 32 2986590.

Tbilisi Opera and Ballet State Theatre, Rustaveli Avenue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 25. Beautiful opera house in neo-moorish building. Opera founded in 1851. Tickets (for some shows?) can be bought online at .

Rustaveli National Theater, Rustaveli Avenue (შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ.), 17.

Cinema Rustaveli, Shota Rustaveli Ave.(შოთა რუსთაველის გამზ) #5 (M1 Liberty Square 200 m.

Tbilisi State Conservatory, Al.Griboyedov Street. ( ალ. გრიბოედოვის ქ.) #8-10 (M1 Liberty Square 500 m.

• Tbilisi Marathon. Held annually in October, with full & half-marathon, 10 km race and kids' runs. The start and finish is at Rustaveli Avenue. The last event was 30 Sept 2018, the 2019 date has not yet been announced. Participation fee 10 lari/10 km and 15 lari/Half marathon.

Tbilisi Marathon. Held annually in October, with full & half-marathon, 10 km race and kids' runs. The start and finish is at Rustaveli Avenue. The last event was 30 Sept 2018, the 2019 date has not yet been announced. Participation fee 10 lari/10 km and 15 lari/Half marathon.

Sulphur Baths, Bath Street (აბანოს ქუჩა) (from Metro Avlabari 1 km SW, south side of the Metekhi bridge. The main bath district is easy to spot with its small domes on ground level. There are several small baths offering different levels of comfort. The baths are relatively small, and you may have to wait for a pool to become available. English service is not guaranteed. Massages are available; however, they are more like a washing, but well worth it for the experience. You should bring your own towel and beach sandals but also they are available for a small fee, but pricey compared to the 3 lari if you use the public bath. Some travellers have suggested the Royal Baths is a much better alternative to Sulphur Baths (they are next to each other). Sulphur baths tend to double the price at the end of the massage and bath in spite of your original agreed price. Private pool: 50–200 lari/hr; massage/scrub 5–20 lari.

* Bath No. 5. This is the only public bath in this area right at the beginning, follow the neon light. It is definitely worth the experience, so do not miss it. The men's section has a central shower area, a hot pool and a sauna. The women's public section only provides showers and massage, and are probably not worth it. 5 lari/hr, bring thongs and towel or it's extra.

* Bagni Sulfurei Zolfo. An old, and characteristic bath. You can find this sulphur baths near Station Square. Upstairs is a men's sauna for 7 lari, but it is also a gay hangout. In the evening you can get a private bath there. 7 lari, private bath 10 lari, additional towel 2 lari.

Turtle Lake (Kus T'ba). This lake is in the hilly outskirts of Tbilisi. A popular weekend getaway for families, the lake offers pedal-boat rentals as well as swimming (deckchairs optional) for reasonable prices (swimming entry, without deckchair, is about 3 lari). Alright for a hot summer day, and offering views of the mountains and of the city below. Snackbars, restaurants and fruit cocktail shakers are available overlooking the lake. It's about an hour's pleasant walk from the Saburtalo district along country roads, passing the Ethnographical Museum, or a 10-15 minute (5–10 lari) cab ride from the center. While the lake itself isn't particularly nice, the views from the hike up to the lake makes it a worthwhile excursion.

Lake Lisi (Lisis T'ba), Reservoir Road (5.1 km SW-W. Much further out than Turtle Lake (a cab will set you back about 10–15 lari each way), Lake Lisi is much larger and more remote, with long, winding mountain walks surrounding the lake. Unlike Turtle Lake, the entire Lake Lisi is opened up for swimmers. Be warned — there aren't always taxis waiting to take you back.

Climb up to the Narikala Fortress. The crumbling ruins of this once-great fortress, standing alongside the Upper Betelmi Churches and the stunning Botanical gardens, offer panoramic views of the city below. It's quite a steep climb, though you could take the cable car instead. Also while the lack of bureaucracy and guard-rails can be liberating for some, you may want to watch your step.

Botanical garden, Botanikuri str. N1 (access via Botanikuri St., or from above through the fortress. Nearest Metro Avalabari. There is another entrance a little south (coming from the Transfiguration monastery), as well as from the top at Mother of Georgia's—pay on your way out., +995 322724306. 09:00-18:30. National botanic garden of Georgia, founded in 1845. Lying in the Tsavkisis-Tskali Gorge near Narikala Fortress. The garden is big and inconsistently maintained. Some nice parts are the Waterfall and the path along the creek upstream in the Mediterranean collection. Also the Parterre in a Central Park is a hidden gem. A fun zipline for over 150 cm tall and under 110 kg sliders is available for 40 lari. 4 lari (adults).

Mtatsminda park. Bus until 23:00. to have fun with your kids, see the views of Tbilisi or to take a ride on the ferris wheel. You need to buy an access card at a cashiers desk for 2 lari. Funicular ride is also 3 lari one way and you use the access card for that.

Alexander's Garden, Dry Bridge Area (მშრალი ხიდი) (Metro: Freedom Square. A part of Park April.

Locomotive Stadium, +995 551536854.

Vake Swimming Pool, Chavchavadze Avenue (ჭავჭავაძის გამზირი).

Paragliding around Tbilisi. Find yourself (and your pilot) hanging in the sky with the clouds staring at the gorgeous sprawling Georgian Caucasus mountains below you.

Watch football (soccer) at FC Dinamo Tbilisi, who play in Erovnuli Liga, the top tier of Georgian football. Their home ground is Dinamo Arena, capacity 54,500, east of the river near the main railway station. The soccer season in Georgia runs Feb to Nov with a winter break.

Money exchange kiosks generally have a spread of around 1% between "buy" and "sell" rates for major currencies—excellent value by western standards.

Shops and restaurants around Kote Afkhazi Street (i.e. Old Tbilisi) are overpriced tourist-trippy-rippy places, double or more of what you pay elsewhere.

• Antiques & other miscellaneous gifts – in Georgia you will able to find many antiques from Georgia, the Middle East, Mediterranean, Russia and Europe.
• Gold, silver, precious stones, and other jewellery – Many foreigners visit Georgia to buy jewellery, because of its cheap cost and superior quality, there is a dizzying selection available upstairs in one of the malls N/W of station square metro.
• Georgian wine – Georgia is the cradle of wine making, and with 521 original varieties of grape you will be sure to find excellent wines.
• Brandy (locally called 'cognac') – made from Georgian wine.
• Mineral waters – Borjomi, Sairme, Nabeghlavi mineral waters from Georgian resorts. Georgian sparkling waters all have a much more metallic taste (not unpleasant, more unexpected) than that of those in Western Europe.
• Chacha – Grape vodka, a Georgian version of grappa. Available in supermarkets or homemade available in local markets for as little as 3 lari. Peach chacha is harder to find but goes down rather more smoothly than the more traditional 'grappa'-type stuff.
• Churchkhela aka "Georgian snickers" – A traditional sweet made by dipping a string of nuts repeatedly into a grape sauce, a must-try.

Antiques & other miscellaneous gifts – in Georgia you will able to find many antiques from Georgia, the Middle East, Mediterranean, Russia and Europe.

Gold, silver, precious stones, and other jewellery – Many foreigners visit Georgia to buy jewellery, because of its cheap cost and superior quality, there is a dizzying selection available upstairs in one of the malls N/W of station square metro.

Georgian wine – Georgia is the cradle of wine making, and with 521 original varieties of grape you will be sure to find excellent wines.

Brandy (locally called 'cognac') – made from Georgian wine.

Mineral waters – Borjomi, Sairme, Nabeghlavi mineral waters from Georgian resorts. Georgian sparkling waters all have a much more metallic taste (not unpleasant, more unexpected) than that of those in Western Europe.

Chacha – Grape vodka, a Georgian version of grappa. Available in supermarkets or homemade available in local markets for as little as 3 lari. Peach chacha is harder to find but goes down rather more smoothly than the more traditional 'grappa'-type stuff.

Churchkhela aka "Georgian snickers" – A traditional sweet made by dipping a string of nuts repeatedly into a grape sauce, a must-try.

Markets:

• The flea market, Dzveli Tbilisi, ~3 Zviad Gamsakhurdia Named Right Bank (by the river on the "Dry Overpass" and surrounding areas; from Metro Station Freedom Square 0.6 km NW. Every Saturday, but seems to be every day nowadays until sunset. This is one of the best places to get jewellery, antiques, and even antique swords, as well as musical instruments and electronics. Haggling is encouraged, although if you speak little Georgian or Russian you may experience the odd juxtaposition of bargaining for antiques using the type-pad of your vendor's mobile phone. Very popular with tourists, so prices are inflated.
• Dezerter Bazaar. Sells everything, especially fruit, vegetable, cheese and churchkhela. Famous with tourists and locals likewise.
• Station Square Underground Market. Sells mainly clothes, and has a lot of repair shops.
• Didube Market. Has a large selection of cheap second hand clothes and shoes.

2nd hand:

Tbilisi is a great place to get cheap and good quality 2nd-hand cloths. Sure, there is lots of cheap stuff from China all over this city, but considering environment and durability, you are probably better off with the former.

• Station Square Bridge. Cloths and shoes can be found here. A pair of leather boots start at 40-50 lari.
• Samgori Metro Underpass. The shops here specialise on used shoes.
• 2nd hand outlet. A huge store of about 200 m² with all sorts of used good, mostly shoes and cloths, but also sports and camping equipment, and even a scooter.
• Day Off! - Re-Use Store, Vertskhlis St. 41. Probably more posh than actual used, for the according extra lari.

Various:

• Tiflis Avenue Art Center and Gallery, 8/10 Erekle II St (Metro Freedom Square, +995 577 50 64 50. Tu-Su 16:00-21:00. This is represents a variety of Georgian artists working in different media. The gallery is in an old town, on King Erekle II Street, where exhibitions of art are held regularly. Tiflis Avenue also runs an online art store with the largest selection of contemporary Georgian art. Entrance free.
• Pixel 34, Ilia Chavchavadze ave., 34 (Bus 9, 21, 34, 51, 59, 61, 85, 88, 140 to Children's City Mziuri 50m. Shopping Centre

The flea market, Dzveli Tbilisi, ~3 Zviad Gamsakhurdia Named Right Bank (by the river on the "Dry Overpass" and surrounding areas; from Metro Station Freedom Square 0.6 km NW. Every Saturday, but seems to be every day nowadays until sunset. This is one of the best places to get jewellery, antiques, and even antique swords, as well as musical instruments and electronics. Haggling is encouraged, although if you speak little Georgian or Russian you may experience the odd juxtaposition of bargaining for antiques using the type-pad of your vendor's mobile phone. Very popular with tourists, so prices are inflated.

Dezerter Bazaar. Sells everything, especially fruit, vegetable, cheese and churchkhela. Famous with tourists and locals likewise.

Station Square Underground Market. Sells mainly clothes, and has a lot of repair shops.

Didube Market. Has a large selection of cheap second hand clothes and shoes.

Station Square Bridge. Cloths and shoes can be found here. A pair of leather boots start at 40-50 lari.

Samgori Metro Underpass. The shops here specialise on used shoes.

2nd hand outlet. A huge store of about 200 m² with all sorts of used good, mostly shoes and cloths, but also sports and camping equipment, and even a scooter.

Day Off! - Re-Use Store, Vertskhlis St. 41. Probably more posh than actual used, for the according extra lari.

Tiflis Avenue Art Center and Gallery, 8/10 Erekle II St (Metro Freedom Square, +995 577 50 64 50. Tu-Su 16:00-21:00. This is represents a variety of Georgian artists working in different media. The gallery is in an old town, on King Erekle II Street, where exhibitions of art are held regularly. Tiflis Avenue also runs an online art store with the largest selection of contemporary Georgian art. Entrance free.

Pixel 34, Ilia Chavchavadze ave., 34 (Bus 9, 21, 34, 51, 59, 61, 85, 88, 140 to Children's City Mziuri 50m. Shopping Centre

Street side stalls selling Georgian "fast food" are all over the city. Some kind of hot snack will cost 0.70-2.50 lari.

• Dzveli Sakhli Restaurant (Old House), 3 Mtkvris Marjvena Sanapiro (on the Mtkvari River, +995 322 36 53 65. 12:00-24:00. Live traditional Georgian music and singing starts at around 18:00 every day, although it's also the perfect place for a quiet post-flea market weekend lunch. Stunning river-views and faux-rural atmosphere — enormous portions at relatively reasonable prices. Credit cards accepted.
• Shemoikhede Genatsvale, 25 Leselidze St (Metro Station Freedom Square, +995 32 2439646. Delicious food cheaper than in the restaurants surrounding it. Khinkali are around 0.50 lari each. Try the ones filled with potato and beef with greens (seasonings). US$7-10.
• Cafe Gabriadze, Shavtelis Qucha (Right off Baratashvili street, next to the puppet theatre. Formerly the trendy "Sans Souci," this artsy eatery (owned by master puppeteer Gabriadze) has reopened after a lengthy renovation period. With a quirkily bohemian decor and inventive takeoffs of classic Georgian dishes (just try their lobio!), the fare here is a cut above the standard khachapuri-and-khinkhali dinner options.
• Kala, 8/10 Erekle II St, +995 899 799737. 10:00–02:00. Hip cafe/restaurant with live Jazz most evenings. Seemingly twinned with its far cheaper neighbor KGBs. We–Fi; Credit card payment accepted. Food seems to have gone downhill in recent months, however, and is increasingly overpriced for the quality. 20–25 lari.
• KGBs, 8/10 Erekle II St (next to Kala. With the tagline "we're still watching you," this painfully hip piece of Soviet Kitsch wouldn't be out of place in Williamsburg. Menu offerings include "Proletariat pizza" and meals advertised as "Lenin's favorite dish." The cheque comes in vintage Soviet working papers. Much cheaper than Kala. 15 lari.
• Khinklis Sakhli (House of Khinkali), 37 Rustaveli Ave (M Rustaveli 50m, +995 893 756671. 09:30-23:30. All Khinkali, all the time. Does a wide range of other Georgian food too. The entrance isn't obvious, you have to enter an alleyway at No. 37 and then go down some steps into a courtyard. 12 lari.
• Machakhela, N106 Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue, (M Marjanishvili, +995 322 911959. 10:00 till 24:00. Biggest restaurant chain specialising in Georgian pastries, with 10 locations in Tbilisi. 'Khachapuri'-traditional Georgian cheese pie, baked in wood-fired oven. Credit cards accepted. More units: 16 K. Marjanishvili, (M Marjanishvili); 23 Tumaniani Str. (Metro Station Avlabari)
• Tamada, 37 Orbeliani St (Metro Technical University, +995 322923280. 09:00–02:00. Ethnographic restaurant. Evenings Georgian music and dances. Wi-Fi available. 25 lari.
• Taglaura, Mtkvari right coast, Vakhushti Bagrationi Bridge, +995 555 207700. Good Georgian food, locally brewed beer, traditional barbeque, live music and outdoor seating. Four locations in Tblisi. Beliashvili St.
• Tsisqvili (Windmill), 9 Dzotsenidze St.?. Amazing menu & food, superb customer service and great design.
• Caravan, Purseladze Street. ? (Metro 'Rustaveli', off Rustaveli Avenue by the cinema. A travel-themed "literary cafe" with East-meets-West decor, a menu that fuses Georgian classics with Middle Eastern treats, and a whole host of travel books on the shelves. Free Wi-Fi. 15 lari.
• Cafe Flowers, Avlabari Ascent (in the pink house overlooking Europa Square - Metro Station Avlabari. Sporting the most stunning views in Tbilisi, the terrace at Cafe Flowers (so named for the gorgeous flora that adorn the terrace and adjacent garden) overlooks the Old Town from across the river. Food is generally good, although be wary of dairy-based dishes lest you come down with an upset stomach. 30 lari.
• Lunch ladies, Corner of Dzmebi Zubalashvilebi St and Laghidze (from Metro Rustaveli, turn uphill at the big Magti store (number 22); head uphill past the Music Conservatory and look for a tiny hut on the street corner at the T-junction. Run by three friendly women, this tiny take-out place serves a wide variety of delicious home-style salads, in addition to a good selection of khatchapuri, at great prices. Make sure to ask for a "guruli" khatchapuri, a style served with boiled egg inside that is most commonly made during the holidays. If you're looking for a cheap, quick lunch but want to try something besides khatchapuri and lobiani, this is the place to visit. No English, but you can see and point to everything. 5 lari.
• Kiwi Vegan Cafe, 6 Ivane Machabeli St (in Old Town between Pushkin and Leselidze, +995 322990456. Vegan cafe. Cheap, delicious, has tofu. 4-7 lari.
• Cafe Leila, Erekle 2 St., 18 (next to Hangar Bar, +995 593 28 10 85. Daily 12:00-02:00. Charming pescatarian cafe with vegan options. Serves vegan wine. Tables outside which look out onto the main square and good decor inside. 10-12 lari average.
• Great Georgian Restaurant, 19 Pushkin (Liberty square, +99559988568. 11:00-00:00. Traditional Georgian dishes, and Indian dishes prepared by indian chefs.

Dzveli Sakhli Restaurant (Old House), 3 Mtkvris Marjvena Sanapiro (on the Mtkvari River, +995 322 36 53 65. 12:00-24:00. Live traditional Georgian music and singing starts at around 18:00 every day, although it's also the perfect place for a quiet post-flea market weekend lunch. Stunning river-views and faux-rural atmosphere — enormous portions at relatively reasonable prices. Credit cards accepted.

Shemoikhede Genatsvale, 25 Leselidze St (Metro Station Freedom Square, +995 32 2439646. Delicious food cheaper than in the restaurants surrounding it. Khinkali are around 0.50 lari each. Try the ones filled with potato and beef with greens (seasonings). US$7-10.

Cafe Gabriadze, Shavtelis Qucha (Right off Baratashvili street, next to the puppet theatre. Formerly the trendy "Sans Souci," this artsy eatery (owned by master puppeteer Gabriadze) has reopened after a lengthy renovation period. With a quirkily bohemian decor and inventive takeoffs of classic Georgian dishes (just try their lobio!), the fare here is a cut above the standard khachapuri-and-khinkhali dinner options.

Kala, 8/10 Erekle II St, +995 899 799737. 10:00–02:00. Hip cafe/restaurant with live Jazz most evenings. Seemingly twinned with its far cheaper neighbor KGBs. We–Fi; Credit card payment accepted. Food seems to have gone downhill in recent months, however, and is increasingly overpriced for the quality. 20–25 lari.

KGBs, 8/10 Erekle II St (next to Kala. With the tagline "we're still watching you," this painfully hip piece of Soviet Kitsch wouldn't be out of place in [[Brooklyn/Williamsburg|Williamsburg]]. Menu offerings include "Proletariat pizza" and meals advertised as "Lenin's favorite dish." The cheque comes in vintage Soviet working papers. Much cheaper than Kala. 15 lari.

Khinklis Sakhli (House of Khinkali), 37 Rustaveli Ave (M Rustaveli 50m, +995 893 756671. 09:30-23:30. All Khinkali, all the time. Does a wide range of other Georgian food too. The entrance isn't obvious, you have to enter an alleyway at No. 37 and then go down some steps into a courtyard. 12 lari.

Machakhela, N106 Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue, (M Marjanishvili, +995 322 911959. 10:00 till 24:00. Biggest restaurant chain specialising in Georgian pastries, with 10 locations in Tbilisi. 'Khachapuri'-traditional Georgian cheese pie, baked in wood-fired oven. Credit cards accepted. More units: 16 K. Marjanishvili, (M Marjanishvili); 23 Tumaniani Str. (Metro Station Avlabari)

Tamada, 37 Orbeliani St (Metro Technical University, +995 322923280. 09:00–02:00. Ethnographic restaurant. Evenings Georgian music and dances. Wi-Fi available. 25 lari.

Taglaura, Mtkvari right coast, Vakhushti Bagrationi Bridge, +995 555 207700. Good Georgian food, locally brewed beer, traditional barbeque, live music and outdoor seating. Four locations in Tblisi. Beliashvili St.

Tsisqvili (Windmill), 9 Dzotsenidze St.?. Amazing menu & food, superb customer service and great design.

Caravan, Purseladze Street. ? (Metro 'Rustaveli', off Rustaveli Avenue by the cinema. A travel-themed "literary cafe" with East-meets-West decor, a menu that fuses Georgian classics with Middle Eastern treats, and a whole host of travel books on the shelves. Free Wi-Fi. 15 lari.

Cafe Flowers, Avlabari Ascent (in the pink house overlooking Europa Square - Metro Station Avlabari. Sporting the most stunning views in Tbilisi, the terrace at Cafe Flowers (so named for the gorgeous flora that adorn the terrace and adjacent garden) overlooks the Old Town from across the river. Food is generally good, although be wary of dairy-based dishes lest you come down with an upset stomach. 30 lari.

Lunch ladies, Corner of Dzmebi Zubalashvilebi St and Laghidze (from Metro Rustaveli, turn uphill at the big Magti store (number 22); head uphill past the Music Conservatory and look for a tiny hut on the street corner at the T-junction. Run by three friendly women, this tiny take-out place serves a wide variety of delicious home-style salads, in addition to a good selection of khatchapuri, at great prices. Make sure to ask for a "guruli" khatchapuri, a style served with boiled egg inside that is most commonly made during the holidays. If you're looking for a cheap, quick lunch but want to try something besides khatchapuri and lobiani, this is the place to visit. No English, but you can see and point to everything. 5 lari.

Kiwi Vegan Cafe, 6 Ivane Machabeli St (in Old Town between Pushkin and Leselidze, +995 322990456. Vegan cafe. Cheap, delicious, has tofu. 4-7 lari.

Cafe Leila, Erekle 2 St., 18 (next to Hangar Bar, +995 593 28 10 85. Daily 12:00-02:00. Charming pescatarian cafe with vegan options. Serves vegan wine. Tables outside which look out onto the main square and good decor inside. 10-12 lari average.

Great Georgian Restaurant, 19 Pushkin (Liberty square, +99559988568. 11:00-00:00. Traditional Georgian dishes, and Indian dishes prepared by indian chefs.

• Picasso Restaurant, 6 Roman Miminoshvili St (Off Perovskaya St. Chinese cuisine
• Vong, +995 322292570. Pricey but delicious fusion-Asian cuisine served in a decadently authentic atmosphere.
• New Asia Restaurant, Griboedov Str, 29? (up the hill from Metro Rustaveli at the corner of Lagidze and Griboedovi streets; opposite Tbilisi State Conservatoire.
• Qalaquri Sushi Bar, 13 Ioane Shavteli St (Near to 'Anchiskhati Church' -, +995 32 2000 260. Club Th-Su from 20:00; karaoke bar daily from 19:00; restaurant daily from 11:00. Sushi + night club + Middle Eastern atmosphere, 4 floors. Cocktail Bar, and BBQ.
• Sushi Bar Tokyo, 14 I. Abashidze St. (in Vake, on Abashidze Street, +995 322250343. Japanese restaurant.
• Baan Thai, 4 Tabukashvili St (follow the road leading to the Radisson and continue past the Radisson as the road curves right; the restaurant is on the left side of the road, if you see the back side of the Opera house, you've gone too far. This is the most authentic Thai restaurant in the city, and a favorite of local expats. Operated by a friendly Thai woman, it has good food and quick service, but it's easy to miss because it's on an unremarkable street between the Opera house and Radisson hotel. 10-15 lari.

Picasso Restaurant, 6 Roman Miminoshvili St (Off Perovskaya St. Chinese cuisine

Vong, +995 322292570. Pricey but delicious fusion-Asian cuisine served in a decadently authentic atmosphere.

New Asia Restaurant, Griboedov Str, 29? (up the hill from Metro Rustaveli at the corner of Lagidze and Griboedovi streets; opposite Tbilisi State Conservatoire.

Qalaquri Sushi Bar, 13 Ioane Shavteli St (Near to 'Anchiskhati Church' -, +995 32 2000 260. Club Th-Su from 20:00; karaoke bar daily from 19:00; restaurant daily from 11:00. Sushi + night club + Middle Eastern atmosphere, 4 floors. Cocktail Bar, and BBQ.

Sushi Bar Tokyo, 14 I. Abashidze St. (in Vake, on Abashidze Street, +995 322250343. Japanese restaurant.

Baan Thai, 4 Tabukashvili St (follow the road leading to the Radisson and continue past the Radisson as the road curves right; the restaurant is on the left side of the road, if you see the back side of the Opera house, you've gone too far. This is the most authentic Thai restaurant in the city, and a favorite of local expats. Operated by a friendly Thai woman, it has good food and quick service, but it's easy to miss because it's on an unremarkable street between the Opera house and Radisson hotel. 10-15 lari.

• Cafe de Paris, Saakadze square (in the city center. Famous for its tasty salads and crepes. Nice place to spend time with friends. Outdoor garden seating.
• Cafe Canape, Abashidze Street (Vake. Reasonably priced, charming bistro with fusion French-Georgian cuisine and a neighborhood-y atmosphere. Definitely a brunch place for Vake's "smart set". The khachapuri is out-of-this-world.
• Zandukeli 40, Zandukeli Street (straight up the hill from the Philharmony. European bistro with an emphasis on German food. Food and service are among the best in town, prices are very reasonable. Run by one of the longest-lasting expats in Tbilisi, Rainer Kaufmann.
• Ronny's Pizza, 3 Vaja Pshavelas (next to the archive building in Saburtalo, +995 322 47 24 72. Su-Th 11:00–22:00, F Sa 11:00–23:00. Lunch, dinner, delivery, take out and catering. Ronny's pizza comes in personal size, regular (12 inch) or extra large (18inch) Delivery charge based on kilometers all over Tbilisi. Classic American style pizza with mozzarella.

Cafe de Paris, Saakadze square (in the city center. Famous for its tasty salads and crepes. Nice place to spend time with friends. Outdoor garden seating.

Cafe Canape, Abashidze Street (Vake. Reasonably priced, charming bistro with fusion French-Georgian cuisine and a neighborhood-y atmosphere. Definitely a brunch place for Vake's "smart set". The khachapuri is out-of-this-world.

Zandukeli 40, Zandukeli Street (straight up the hill from the Philharmony. European bistro with an emphasis on German food. Food and service are among the best in town, prices are very reasonable. Run by one of the longest-lasting expats in Tbilisi, Rainer Kaufmann.

Ronny's Pizza, 3 Vaja Pshavelas (next to the archive building in Saburtalo, +995 322 47 24 72. Su-Th 11:00–22:00, F Sa 11:00–23:00. Lunch, dinner, delivery, take out and catering. Ronny's pizza comes in personal size, regular (12 inch) or extra large (18inch) Delivery charge based on kilometers all over Tbilisi. Classic American style pizza with mozzarella.

• Segafredo Zanetti Espresso, 26 Chavchavadze Ave. Expensive quality coffee and Italian + European food. Wi-Fi.
• coffee.ge, Three locations (24 Abashidze Str., 41 Chavchavadze Ave., 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave.). Pizza and other Italian food. Delivers food to your home. Wi-Fi.
• Fiorino, 77 Kostava St. - Saakadze square. Fiorino offers best pizzas in Tbilisi, one of the best carpaccios and veal. Relaxing environment and outdoor seating.
• Il Garage, Mozashvili street 26 (50 m from Vake park. Decent versions of risotto, linguini, lasagna, and an excellent, huge antipasti misto. Pleasant outdoor seating in the summer and affordable prices year round. Run by Alberto - a real Italian.
• Prego, Three locations (Saburtalo, intersection of Vazha-Pshavela and Pekini St.; Vake, on Paliashvili, just below the round (UN) garden and the third in the old town, Erekle II st.). Prices are said to be reasonable and service is usually good. Look out for the daily specials - usually a bit pricier, but worth it.
• Piano, Tabidze Street (right next to People's). This new Italian eatery feels more like a swank New York restaurant than a Georgian-style trattoria, with black-and-white Botticelli-inspired wallpaper and uber-trendy minimalist light fixtures. The food is reasonably priced for the — admittedly expensive — area, but it's good (especially the super-fresh tomato-based sauces) and air-conditioned to boot. Beware of the bread; it's so delicious, you'll be full before your appetizers arrive.
• Solemio Italian Restaurant Lounge Bar, 27b Mitskevich Str. - Saburtalo. Pizza and other Italian food. Delivers food to your home. Wi-Fi.

Segafredo Zanetti Espresso, 26 Chavchavadze Ave. Expensive quality coffee and Italian + European food. Wi-Fi.

coffee.ge, Three locations (24 Abashidze Str., 41 Chavchavadze Ave., 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave.). Pizza and other Italian food. Delivers food to your home. Wi-Fi.

Fiorino, 77 Kostava St. - Saakadze square. Fiorino offers best pizzas in Tbilisi, one of the best carpaccios and veal. Relaxing environment and outdoor seating.

Il Garage, Mozashvili street 26 (50 m from Vake park. Decent versions of risotto, linguini, lasagna, and an excellent, huge antipasti misto. Pleasant outdoor seating in the summer and affordable prices year round. Run by Alberto - a real Italian.

Prego, Three locations (Saburtalo, intersection of Vazha-Pshavela and Pekini St.; Vake, on Paliashvili, just below the round (UN) garden and the third in the old town, Erekle II st.). Prices are said to be reasonable and service is usually good. Look out for the daily specials - usually a bit pricier, but worth it.

Piano, Tabidze Street (right next to People's). This new Italian eatery feels more like a swank New York restaurant than a Georgian-style trattoria, with black-and-white Botticelli-inspired wallpaper and uber-trendy minimalist light fixtures. The food is reasonably priced for the — admittedly expensive — area, but it's good (especially the super-fresh tomato-based sauces) and air-conditioned to boot. Beware of the bread; it's so delicious, you'll be full before your appetizers arrive.

Solemio Italian Restaurant Lounge Bar, 27b Mitskevich Str. - Saburtalo. Pizza and other Italian food. Delivers food to your home. Wi-Fi.

Some outlets of sterile international hamburger "restaurants" exist, also some "freed chicken" imitators in the city, offering the same kind of material Americans consider "food" at prices which are high by local standards.

• Prospero's Bookstore and Caliban's Coffehouse, 34 Rustaveli Ave (in a courtyard by the entrance to the overpass near the opera, past the Sony store in the direction of the Rustaveli metro stop. With wireless internet, a bucolic courtyard, and spotless furnishings, this expat bookstore-cum-coffeehouse could be in London's Notting Hill. Good selection of English books, but the real gem is the atmosphere - a perfect escape for when Tbilisi's more chaotic pleasures start to become overwhelming. Effectively bilingual waitstaff, try to strike up conversations with other foreigners.
• There is a kebab shop where you can get a large kebab for 2.5 lari outside Didube metro, a good first stop if you are arriving by the bus station. Go left past the money changers' shops.

Prospero's Bookstore and Caliban's Coffehouse, 34 Rustaveli Ave (in a courtyard by the entrance to the overpass near the opera, past the Sony store in the direction of the Rustaveli metro stop. With wireless internet, a bucolic courtyard, and spotless furnishings, this expat bookstore-cum-coffeehouse could be in London's Notting Hill. Good selection of English books, but the real gem is the atmosphere - a perfect escape for when Tbilisi's more chaotic pleasures start to become overwhelming. Effectively bilingual waitstaff, try to strike up conversations with other foreigners.

One is never far from a corner store opening late selling the bare essentials of life late into the night, which always include booze and bread. Georgia is known as the cradle of wine having produced wine since the neolithic period; and locals are very proud of this. Georgian wine was and still is the best in post-Soviet culture and there are many wine tasting shops in the upmarket areas of the city where wine culture is greatly respected. Try one of the famous wines from Kakheti or the other popular regions.

It is possible to have a great night you may or may not remember for only 10 or 15 lari if you follow students to the cheaper bars where tourists are welcome, but you might be shortchanged a few lari.

Also of note (especially for non-drinkers) is the famous Georgian "Laghidze Waters", sweet drinks based on soda and natural fruit and herb syrups, listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia. There is a Laghidze Waters restaurant in Tbilisi selling the genuine article, but Natakhtari is quite similar and sold in corner shops all over.

• Singer. Jazz bar and restaurant with great live music. In summer you might just hang around on the square in front and enjoy the music with a beer from a local shop. mulled wine 8 lari.
• Dublin, 8 Akhvlediani St (Metro Rustaveli, +995 32 98 44 67. until 03:00. Irish pub with live music from 20:00-00:00. Try the meat wrapped in bacon. 30 lari.
• Fahrenheit, 5 Vashlovani St, +995 855 975117, +995 599378086. Bar, Jazz and Blues club. Live music everyday.
• Hangar Bar, Irakli II Street (ერეკლე II ქუჩა) (Metro Station Freedom Square, +995 551 61 15 88. Irish pub run by an American couple. Very popular among expats.
• Old London, 6 Akhvlediani St, +995 57279194, +995 593259116. Live music every evening.
• Hadson & Hooker, 67 Beliashvili St (Next to Cruise, +995 55328360. American bar. Exotic wine tasting every Thursday. Live music every evening, can-can dancers, billiards, darts
• Alibi Room. Cheap bar well known (or infamous) among locals, attracts a young crowd and gets packed on Fridays, when things can get a bit rough; so it's not for the faint hearted. Recently moved address. Chacha 1 lari, beer 2 lari.
• Shot time bar, 15 Aleksandr Pushkin St, Tbilisi (underground on Liberty Square. Cheap and friendly bar in good location, beer, wine or chacha. Beer 2 lari.
• Warszawa bar. Polish bar with a nice atmosphere, popular with young people. 2 lari beer, decent selection of other drinks. 2-6.
• 41 Gradus, 19 Galaktion Tabidze St (1.5 blocks south of Liberty Square. Small stylish cocktail bar serving their own creations (15 lari). Slide the metal door to get downstairs. 15.
• Sakhelosno, 41 Revaz Tabukashvili St (Behind the opera, 2 blocks to the NW. Crowded underground dive, alternative/student vibe, with cheap and tasty peach chacha, and (at least on weekends) excellent karaoke singing.
• Kazbegi Beer, 68a Dimitri Uznadze street 0112 (On the river road, not D. Uznadze street. From D. Uznadze, turn left down O. Dgebuadze street; straight past some stalls of women selling fish behind chicken wire, then left on the main road. Ostensibly 10:00-23:00 daily but has been known to close early. Legendary. Large beer cafe frequented mostly by locals but also the famous "beer wall" where bottles will be filled with beer of your choosing from a hose. 2 lari per litre.

Singer. Jazz bar and restaurant with great live music. In summer you might just hang around on the square in front and enjoy the music with a beer from a local shop. mulled wine 8 lari.

Dublin, 8 Akhvlediani St (Metro Rustaveli, +995 32 98 44 67. until 03:00. Irish pub with live music from 20:00-00:00. Try the meat wrapped in bacon. 30 lari.

Fahrenheit, 5 Vashlovani St, +995 855 975117, +995 599378086. Bar, Jazz and Blues club. Live music everyday.

Hangar Bar, Irakli II Street (ერეკლე II ქუჩა) (Metro Station Freedom Square, +995 551 61 15 88. Irish pub run by an American couple. Very popular among expats.

Old London, 6 Akhvlediani St, +995 57279194, +995 593259116. Live music every evening.

Hadson & Hooker, 67 Beliashvili St (Next to Cruise, +995 55328360. American bar. Exotic wine tasting every Thursday. Live music every evening, can-can dancers, billiards, darts

Alibi Room. Cheap bar well known (or infamous) among locals, attracts a young crowd and gets packed on Fridays, when things can get a bit rough; so it's not for the faint hearted. Recently moved address. Chacha 1 lari, beer 2 lari.

Shot time bar, 15 Aleksandr Pushkin St, Tbilisi (underground on Liberty Square. Cheap and friendly bar in good location, beer, wine or chacha. Beer 2 lari.

Warszawa bar. Polish bar with a nice atmosphere, popular with young people. 2 lari beer, decent selection of other drinks. 2-6.

41 Gradus, 19 Galaktion Tabidze St (1.5 blocks south of Liberty Square. Small stylish cocktail bar serving their own creations (15 lari). Slide the metal door to get downstairs. 15.

Sakhelosno, 41 Revaz Tabukashvili St (Behind the opera, 2 blocks to the NW. Crowded underground dive, alternative/student vibe, with cheap and tasty peach chacha, and (at least on weekends) excellent karaoke singing.

Kazbegi Beer, 68a Dimitri Uznadze street 0112 (On the river road, not D. Uznadze street. From D. Uznadze, turn left down O. Dgebuadze street; straight past some stalls of women selling fish behind chicken wire, then left on the main road. Ostensibly 10:00-23:00 daily but has been known to close early. Legendary. Large beer cafe frequented mostly by locals but also the famous "beer wall" where bottles will be filled with beer of your choosing from a hose. 2 lari per litre.

Tbilisi is the one city in Georgia where coffee vending machines 0.50-0.80 lari may be found, though with a huge load of sugar.

Unless you would like to forget you are in Tbilisi and drink in fancy expensive places where only tourists and expats may be found, Chardini and its connecting streets should be avoided as the most blatant tourist trap in the country. The best pubs and cafes in Tbilisi are tucked in unlikely looking side streets of the Old City, often underground or sometimes without even a sign to mark their presence. Keep your eyes and ears open.

• Four Seasons, 2 Irakli Abashidze Street (Steps from Gamsakhurdia ave, +995 322147188, +995 32-144440. 11:00–01:00. Cozy place with lounge-sitting rooms and unique interior. European cuisine. Prices are affordable and nice music is played. 15 lari.
• The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, 20 Rustaveli Ave. 08:00—22:00. A great cafe with tasty pastries, good coffee, and free Wi-fi. 5-10 lari.
• Laghidze Waters, 53 Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue (Just at the Marjanishvili end of the 'tourist' section of Aghmashenebeli Avenue where the fairy lights start. 12:00-00:00 daily (ostensibly). Small cafe selling the (reasonably) famous Laghidze Waters and a range of Georgian pastry snacks quite cheap (3-7 lari for a pastry). The other Laghidze Waters cafe near Sameba Cathedral seems to be closed as of 3/19 so this is the only one in Tbilisi.
• The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, 20 Rustaveli Ave. 08:00—22:00. A great cafe with tasty pastries, good coffee, and free Wi-fi. 5-10 lari.

Four Seasons, 2 Irakli Abashidze Street (Steps from Gamsakhurdia ave, +995 322147188, +995 32-144440. 11:00–01:00. Cozy place with lounge-sitting rooms and unique interior. European cuisine. Prices are affordable and nice music is played. 15 lari.

The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, 20 Rustaveli Ave. 08:00—22:00. A great cafe with tasty pastries, good coffee, and free Wi-fi. 5-10 lari.

Laghidze Waters, 53 Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue (Just at the Marjanishvili end of the 'tourist' section of Aghmashenebeli Avenue where the fairy lights start. 12:00-00:00 daily (ostensibly). Small cafe selling the (reasonably) famous Laghidze Waters and a range of Georgian pastry snacks quite cheap (3-7 lari for a pastry). The other Laghidze Waters cafe near Sameba Cathedral seems to be closed as of 3/19 so this is the only one in Tbilisi.

The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, 20 Rustaveli Ave. 08:00—22:00. A great cafe with tasty pastries, good coffee, and free Wi-fi. 5-10 lari.

Be wary about scams and tourist traps – see #Stay safe below. Some shady clubs/bars have specialised in forcing tourists to pay unjustified amounts of money for drinks and services, especially strip bars. If it's shiny and classy, be wary.

• Bassiani, 2 Akaki Tsereteli Ave, Tbilisi (under the dinamo arena. A famous underground techno club, possibly one of the best in the whole region—think Berghain. It also has an LGBT night, clearly stating its modernness and openness. Don't go if the latter does upset you in any way! FB. 30 lari entry—if the bouncer lets you in.
• Buddha Bar, Rikhe,, +995 322 255222. 19:00–Late. Opened in March 2012. Latest arm of Buddha Bar Asian-inspired restaurant/lounge chain. Reservations are highly encouraged and sometimes a must. Reservations can be called in after 12:00 daily. An excellent place for sushi and good lounge and electronic music. Expensive.
• Cubic, 45 Kostava Str. One of the best places for good house music, real minimal techno and sometimes some breakbeats and dnb. Entrance: 30 lari.
• GURU Club, 12 Rustaveli Ave, +995 322 983803. ay, Sa Su 22:00-07:00. Foreign DJs and singers & G.U.R.U. show girls
• KalaKuri Restaurant/Club, 13 Shavteli St (Mtatsminda District, +995 322 996683. Club: F and Sa from 23:00; Restaurant: 12:00–13:00; Lounge Bar: 17:00–03:00. Good night club, pop, 90s and modern music.
• Night Flight, Baratashvili Street (Under Baratashvili bridge. Open on Fridays and Saturdays. Supposedly has the best house, trance, dance, club music, Georgian and foreign DJs in Tbilisi. Drinks are a bit expensive, but worth it. Entrance: 30 lari.

Bassiani, 2 Akaki Tsereteli Ave, Tbilisi (under the dinamo arena. A famous underground techno club, possibly one of the best in the whole region—think [[Berlin/East_Central#Clubs|Berghain]]. It also has an LGBT night, clearly stating its modernness and openness. Don't go if the latter does upset you in any way! FB. 30 lari entry—if the bouncer lets you in.

Buddha Bar, Rikhe,, +995 322 255222. 19:00–Late. Opened in March 2012. Latest arm of Buddha Bar Asian-inspired restaurant/lounge chain. Reservations are highly encouraged and sometimes a must. Reservations can be called in after 12:00 daily. An excellent place for sushi and good lounge and electronic music. Expensive.

Cubic, 45 Kostava Str. One of the best places for good house music, real minimal techno and sometimes some breakbeats and dnb. Entrance: 30 lari.

GURU Club, 12 Rustaveli Ave, +995 322 983803. ay, Sa Su 22:00-07:00. Foreign DJs and singers & G.U.R.U. show girls

KalaKuri Restaurant/Club, 13 Shavteli St (Mtatsminda District, +995 322 996683. Club: F and Sa from 23:00; Restaurant: 12:00–13:00; Lounge Bar: 17:00–03:00. Good night club, pop, 90s and modern music.

Night Flight, Baratashvili Street (Under Baratashvili bridge. Open on Fridays and Saturdays. Supposedly has the best house, trance, dance, club music, Georgian and foreign DJs in Tbilisi. Drinks are a bit expensive, but worth it. Entrance: 30 lari.

• Numisi Cellar Museum.
• Winery Khareba.

Numisi Cellar Museum.

Winery Khareba.

Tbilisi is very safe after the Rose Revolution. You will be welcomed with the cheerful hospitality that is a hallmark of Georgian culture. The police system was reformed completely and the recent polls show that public's trust in police shifted from nearly 10% to 88%. The police are usually quick to respond, though usually only Georgian and Russian are spoken.

While walking is generally fine, even for solo women, it makes sense to take a bus or taxi home at night. Use common sense and big-city awareness. Night time at the clubs and bars are generally safe but fights between locals can escalate quickly. The taxi service is safe as long as it's a company taxi like "009" or others. The public bus is also a good, safe option for 0.50 lari.

• Police Tel: 112
• Ambulance tel: 112

Extreme caution should be exercised when frequenting any establishment in the "Shardeni" area, between Kote Apkhazi street and the river, on streets "Chardin", "Bambis Rigi", and "Rkinis Rigi". These bars, clubs, and restaurants are well known for operating expensive scams, charging upwards of US$1,000 for a few drinks and forcing tourists to pay. Although a few establishments in this area have a reasonable reputation, such as "KGB", it is safer and cheaper to completely avoid this area. This is the only area of the city where such caution should be taken.

As always, cab drivers will try to cheat tourists; especially coming from the airport, rigging the meter, misrepresenting the value of the lari or quoting a price in lari then demanding payment in US dollars. Stand your ground and walk away if necessary.

Beggars have become more aggressive in the tourist areas, children may cling to the legs of wealthy-looking tourists or several adults may cling to a tourist whilst pickpocketing them; yell for help and fight back- unfortunately the police appear to be in on this and will often turn a blind eye; or encourage you to let the perpetrators go.

• Medi Club Georgia, 22a, Tashkenti St (Metro: "Medical University" 300 m walk to Taskent lane corner opp- of its, +995 32 2251991, +995 599 581991 (Emergency). One of designated medical clinic for foreigners—meaning overpriced. Apparently, official bills from here are accepted more commonly by international health insurances, but this really depends on your insurance.

Medi Club Georgia, 22a, Tashkenti St (Metro: "Medical University" 300 m walk to Taskent lane corner opp- of its, +995 32 2251991, +995 599 581991 (Emergency). One of designated medical clinic for foreigners—meaning overpriced. Apparently, official bills from here are accepted more commonly by international health insurances, but this really depends on your insurance.

The Government postal service is notorious for being over-priced and unreliable with many thefts, and lost or damaged packages. Use a private postal company for anything important.

More details here: https://www.embassypages.com/georgia

• Armenia Armenia, 4 Gia Tetelashvili Street, 0102, +995 32 295-1723, +995 32 295-9443.
• Azerbaijan Azerbaijan, 4 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0114, +995 32 224-2220. 09:00-18:00.
• Brazil Brazil, 6/2 Gia Chanturia street, 0108, +995 32 293-2419.
• Bulgaria Bulgaria, 15 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0105, +995 32 291-0194, +995 32 291-019495, +995 577233030.
• Estonia Estonia, 4 Likhauri street, 0171, +995 32 236-5122.
• France France, 49 Krtsanisi St, +995 32 272 1490. M-Th 09:00-13:00 and 14:00-18:00 and F 09:00-13:00 and 14:00-16:30.
• Germany Germany, 20 Telavi street, Hotel „Sheraton Metekhi Palace“ (300 Aragveli Subway Station, +995 32 244 7300. M-Th 08:30–17:30, F 08:30-14:30.
• Hungary Hungary, 83 Lvovi Street on some map Kushitashvili street (off Budapesht Street), Saburtalo district (Metro: "Medical University" 0.7 km, +995 32 2399008, +995 595 580777 (Emergency).
• Iran Iran, 80 Ilia Chavchavadze Ave (From M Delisi S3.5km - At Vake Cemetery, +995 32 291 3656, +995 32 2913658, +995 32 2913659, +995 32 291660.
• Iraq Iraq, 17 Lvov St, +995 32 223 4501, +995 32 223 4502, +995 32 223 4503.
• Israel Israel, 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave, +995 32 255 65 00.
• Italy Italy, 3a Chitadze St, +995 32 299 64 18, +995 32 292 14 62, +995 32 292 18 54.
• Japan Japan, 7d Krtsanisi St, +995 32 275 21 11.
• Latvia Latvia, 16 Akhmeta St, +995 32 224 48 58.
• Lithuania Lithuania, 25 Tengiz Abuladze street, 0162, +995 32 291 29 33.
• Switzerland Swiss, Krtsanisi St (კრწანისის ქუჩა).
• Turkey Turkey, 35 Chavchavadze Ave, +995 32 225 20 72, +995 32 225 20 73, +995 32 225 20 74, +995 32 225 20 76.
• United Kingdom United Kingdom, 51 Krtsanisi St, +995 32 227 47 47.
• United States United States, 11 Balanchini St, +995 32 227 70 00, +995 32 253 23 34.

Armenia Armenia, 4 Gia Tetelashvili Street, 0102, +995 32 295-1723, +995 32 295-9443.

Azerbaijan Azerbaijan, 4 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0114, +995 32 224-2220. 09:00-18:00.

Brazil Brazil, 6/2 Gia Chanturia street, 0108, +995 32 293-2419.

Bulgaria Bulgaria, 15 Vakhtang Gorgasali street, 0105, +995 32 291-0194, +995 32 291-019495, +995 577233030.

Estonia Estonia, 4 Likhauri street, 0171, +995 32 236-5122.

France France, 49 Krtsanisi St, +995 32 272 1490. M-Th 09:00-13:00 and 14:00-18:00 and F 09:00-13:00 and 14:00-16:30.

Germany Germany, 20 Telavi street, Hotel „Sheraton Metekhi Palace“ (300 Aragveli Subway Station, +995 32 244 7300. M-Th 08:30–17:30, F 08:30-14:30.

Hungary Hungary, 83 Lvovi Street on some map Kushitashvili street (off Budapesht Street), Saburtalo district (Metro: "Medical University" 0.7 km, +995 32 2399008, +995 595 580777 (Emergency).

Iran Iran, 80 Ilia Chavchavadze Ave (From M Delisi S3.5km - At Vake Cemetery, +995 32 291 3656, +995 32 2913658, +995 32 2913659, +995 32 291660.

Iraq Iraq, 17 Lvov St, +995 32 223 4501, +995 32 223 4502, +995 32 223 4503.

Israel Israel, 154 Aghmashenebeli Ave, +995 32 255 65 00.

Italy Italy, 3a Chitadze St, +995 32 299 64 18, +995 32 292 14 62, +995 32 292 18 54.

Japan Japan, 7d Krtsanisi St, +995 32 275 21 11.

Latvia Latvia, 16 Akhmeta St, +995 32 224 48 58.

Lithuania Lithuania, 25 Tengiz Abuladze street, 0162, +995 32 291 29 33.

Switzerland Swiss, Krtsanisi St (კრწანისის ქუჩა).

Turkey Turkey, 35 Chavchavadze Ave, +995 32 225 20 72, +995 32 225 20 73, +995 32 225 20 74, +995 32 225 20 76.

United Kingdom United Kingdom, 51 Krtsanisi St, +995 32 227 47 47.

United States United States, 11 Balanchini St, +995 32 227 70 00, +995 32 253 23 34.

• Mtskheta – The old capital, and nearby is Jvari monastery. Marshrutka from Didube (1 lari), or take a tour (prices range from 30-120 lari per person).
• Rustavi – For a Soviet immersive experience, to the east. You'll be glad to come back. Unspoiled and 25 km, about half an hour by frequent marshrutkas from metro station "station square" (1.5 lari) yellow marshrutka no. 19.

Not far east of Tbilisi is the beginning of the Kakheti region with various sights, including:

• Telavi – Gateway to the close-by Alaverdi Monastery, Gurjaani (part of the wine route) and the mountain region of Tusheti
• Sighnaghi – A restored wine town with an extensive wall and close-by the popular Monastery of St. George at Bodbe (aka Bodbe Convent)
• David Gareja Monastery Complex – A 6th-century cave monastery, though not as impressive as Vardzia

• Gudauri – A popular ski resort about 120 km north
• Stepantsminda/Kazbegi – A great hiking and mountaineer destination with one of the highest mountains in Europe, Mount Kazbeg, and home to the spectacularly situated Gergeti Trinity Church. And along the way from Tbilisi the beautiful Ananuri Fortress Complex.

All sights are covered under the according region article and its cities, especially Rioni Region, Samtskhe-Javakheti and Northwestern Georgia. Some highlights:

• Gori – Known for its Stalin cult and the close-by Uplistsikhe, a 3,600-year-old Silk Road cave city that was a major regional centre of Caucasian pagan religion.
• Borjomi – A resort town popular for its mineral well, the nearby Borjomi (Kharagauli) Nature Reserve, a hiking paradise, and Mtsvane Monastery (aka the Green Monastery).
• Bakuriani – A ski resort and scenic slow train trip destination from Borjomi.
• Vardzia – The best cave monastery to visit in Georgia, beyond Uplistsikhe and David Gareja.
• Mestia/Svaneti region – 10-12 hr away by bus, and the most famous mountain region in Georgia with the famous Svan Towers, glaciers, the authentic village Ushguli, as well as numerous hiking destinations
• Batumi – ~250 km away by night & day train, plane, or bus/minibus, a summer and beach city on the Black Sea, also on the way to Turkey.
• Ozurgeti – A good jumping off point for nearby beaches and mountain resorts. ~200 km via night train, leaves around 21:45, arrives 06:10. There is also a marshutka from Station Square (the train station), which leaves at 16:00 and arrives around 22:00), is a regional centre.

• Ijevan – The first destination when coming from Georgia/Tbilisi and popular for its post-Soviet feel and the surrounding mountains. Easily reached by marshutka from Tbilisi, several a day.
• Sevan – The nearby lake (biggest in Armenia) is a famous summer destination. Also several marshutkas daily from Tbilisi.
• Yerevan – The capital is a must see, and the best base for exploring the country. Ijevan and Lake Sevan are on the way to Yerevan.

• Ganja – First large town when entering Azerbaijan from Tbilisi along the main highway. Popular for its architecture as well as nearby hiking destination, Goygol National Park.
• Baku – The most eastern point of Azerbaijan. The capital, cosmopolitan and spectacular. Best reached by night train, but also possible by marshrutka.
• Qax (Qakh) – A popular and remote city near the Caucasus, great for hiking into the Caucasus
• Zaqatala – Similar to Qax, though a little more touristic