Terschelling

Terschelling is one of the West Frisian Islands in the north of the Netherlands. From left to right, it's the third island in the group and it's one of the five inhabited ones.

The island of Terschelling was formed in medieval times after a sand bank known as De Schelling merged with the island located east from it, Wexalia. The name of Wexalia, the then name for the group of islands and sandbanks located where Terschelling lies now, has been out of common usage since the later medieval ages. The oldest settlements to have been found on Terschelling date back from around 850, being a little wooden church near Striep. A church list dating from the eleventh century mentioned the church of Echternach (Luxembourg) owning two churches on Terschelling.

Being located on the North Sea in an age in which the Dutch did not yet have their ability to protect against the seas, Terschelling was often damaged by storms and floods. The worst of these to have ever happened to Terschelling was in 1287, named the Saint Hubertusflood. This flood removed the ability to walk to the island via an shallow passage in the Wadden Sea, connecting to the island near Hoorn. The main connection shifted to the west at this point, making West-Terschelling the main settlement of the island.

Terschelling has been divided into two municipalities in 1612 after differences between inhabitants of the eastern and western parts of the island came to an all-time high. West-Terschelling became the capital city of West Terschelling, while Oost Terschelling was controlled from Midsland. Only after French occupation in Napoleonic times was the island reunited into unison.

Terschelling has been part of multiple countries and provinces, the last time of which was in 1942, when during German occupation the island along with its neighbour Vlieland was transferred from the province of North Holland to Friesland.

After a merchants fleet was destroyed on the Vlieree, the strait of water dividing Vlieland from Terschelling, on August 19th, 1666, West-Terschelling was attacked by the British navy the following day, led by captain Robert Holmes and Dutch deserteer captain Laurentz van Heemskerk. They attacked West-Terschelling since Vlieland, their original target, has prepared itself for possible attacks. Terschelling hadn't done so, and was therefore an easy target. The three hundred houses in the Town of Brandaris were burned to the ground without much resistance from the locals. The lighthouse Brandaris was one of the sole building to survive Holmes' Fire. Through help from up the hierarchy, namely the authorities of the district of Holland, the town was rebuilt successfully within several years. The layer of burnt ashes is still visible to this day, pitch black, it is found by digging down for about a meter. As of 2016, 350 years after the matter, a part of the ashes has been made visible in the Commandeursstraat, one of the oldest streets of West-Terschelling.

Nowadays, Terschelling counts roughly 8,300 permanent inhabitants, with that number tripling in high season. Like most of the West Frisian Islands, Terschelling thrives on domestic tourism who usually stay several days to enjoy the quiet, rural island atmosphere, spend time on the beaches and take bike trips to see the nature.

Terschelling is also the birthplace of explorer Willem Barentsz.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

There are several small villages and hamlets on the island. The largest settlements are West-Terschelling. (with about 2,400 people) and Midsland. with around 1,000 inhabitants. All others are far smaller, with towns counting as little as 14 inhabitants as is the case with Kaard.. The towns of Hoorn., Formerum., Lies. and Oosterend. all count more than 125 inhabitants.

The number one attraction is the island's lovely nature. There are large dune landscapes and lots of bird life. Some other sights include:

• Brandaris, West-Terschelling. The islands light house is the oldest still operating one in the country, and a landmark that can't be missed. Locals refer to it simply as "the tower", and it's a square shaped, late 16th century structure. Unfortunately, the interior is not open for visitors.
• Harbour of West-Terschelling. The village harbour is a picturesque place. It's the arrival point for the ferries, but otherwise home base for many smaller boats. There are cosy cafés around, allowing to sit back and take in the atmosphere.
• Formerum Windmill, Formerum. The only remaining mill on the island, it once was used to mill the grains for the local community. Now, it's called the "Koffiemolen" or Coffeemill, for the coffee bar that's housed inside it. The building is a national monument and was constructed in 1838. About 40 years later it was moved from it's original location near West-Terschelling to its current place.
• Museum 't Behouden Huys, Commandeurstraat 30-32 West Terschelling, +31 562-442389. Housed in two historic commandor's mansions, this small but pleasant museum has an interesting collection on the island's history. There's a yearly changing exposition as well as a permanent exposition space. The museum is named after the shelter on Nova Zembla that Willem Barentz, born on the island, famously built in 1596, to survive the northern winter after his ship became stuck in the ice. € 4/2 for adults/children.

Brandaris, West-Terschelling. The islands light house is the oldest still operating one in the country, and a landmark that can't be missed. Locals refer to it simply as "the tower", and it's a square shaped, late 16th century structure. Unfortunately, the interior is not open for visitors.

Harbour of West-Terschelling. The village harbour is a picturesque place. It's the arrival point for the ferries, but otherwise home base for many smaller boats. There are cosy cafés around, allowing to sit back and take in the atmosphere.

Formerum Windmill, Formerum. The only remaining mill on the island, it once was used to mill the grains for the local community. Now, it's called the "Koffiemolen" or Coffeemill, for the coffee bar that's housed inside it. The building is a national monument and was constructed in 1838. About 40 years later it was moved from it's original location near West-Terschelling to its current place.

Museum 't Behouden Huys, Commandeurstraat 30-32 West Terschelling, +31 562-442389. Housed in two historic commandor's mansions, this small but pleasant museum has an interesting collection on the island's history. There's a yearly changing exposition as well as a permanent exposition space. The museum is named after the shelter on Nova Zembla that Willem Barentz, born on the island, famously built in 1596, to survive the northern winter after his ship became stuck in the ice. € 4/2 for adults/children.

• Oerol Festival. The annual Oerol theatre festival is known throughout the country, and in fact one of the largest events of its kind in all of Europe. It's a cultural happening full of theatre, music and arts, attracting about 50.000 visitors each year. It's praised for it's programme, but also for the remarkable settings, with stages in the dunes, in barns, on the dikes and right in the village streets. If you happen to be in the area in early summer, this is an event worth catching a ferry for. €20.
• Bird watching. On the western side of the island is Natural Reserve De Boschplaat. Some 65 to 70 different bird species roam and breed here, making it a popular destination for bird life enthusiasts. Note however that the area is closed in summer, March 15 - August 15, for the breeding season of the animals. There's no entrance fee.

Oerol Festival. The annual Oerol theatre festival is known throughout the country, and in fact one of the largest events of its kind in all of [[Europe]]. It's a cultural happening full of theatre, music and arts, attracting about 50.000 visitors each year. It's praised for it's programme, but also for the remarkable settings, with stages in the dunes, in barns, on the dikes and right in the village streets. If you happen to be in the area in early summer, this is an event worth catching a ferry for. €20.

Bird watching. On the western side of the island is Natural Reserve De Boschplaat. Some 65 to 70 different bird species roam and breed here, making it a popular destination for bird life enthusiasts. Note however that the area is closed in summer, March 15 - August 15, for the breeding season of the animals. There's no entrance fee.

There's a range of shops available in the island's main towns, providing all daily groceries (also since there are many self-catering apartments) as well as souvenirs. If you want to go shopping for more than basic stuff, West-Terschelling is the best bet, with many small stores in and around the Torenstraat and Boomstraat.

Local specialities from the island include cheeses, cranberry-products and local honey. You'll also find beer and liquors made from wild cherries, which grow in the natural park Boschplaat at the east side of Terschelling.

Two proper supermarkets are found on the island:

• Jumbo Mier, Formerum 16, Formerum, +31 562 448 729. The longest-standing supermarket on the island (though this doesn't mean much as Mier was the only supermarket until recently). The supermarket has an in-house bakery which 60% of the island relies upon and a liquor shop (Slijterij) next door.
• Coop Terschelling-Midsland, Oosterburen 2-4, Midsland, +31 562 445 025.

Jumbo Mier, Formerum 16, Formerum, +31 562 448 729. The longest-standing supermarket on the island (though this doesn't mean much as Mier was the only supermarket until recently). The supermarket has an in-house bakery which 60% of the island relies upon and a liquor shop (Slijterij) next door.

Coop Terschelling-Midsland, Oosterburen 2-4, Midsland, +31 562 445 025.

There are plenty of places to eat, in all of the major villages. Most of the food is simple, bistro-style stuff for reasonable prices. In summer, many establishments have pleasant outdoor terraces where you can enjoy your meal.

• Steakhouse Brasserie Brandaris, Boomstraat 3, West-Terschelling, +31 562 442 554. 11:00-23:00. Located close to the light house, this places serves bistro style food rather than real steak house meats, but it's a good pick if you're up for some spare-ribs or saté. However, they also serve fried fish and several vegetarian options. Mains from €16.50.
• El Mundo, Boomstraat 31, West-Terschelling, +31 562 450 125. Wed-Sun: 17:00-23:00.
• Grand Café Zeezicht, Willem Barentszkade 20, West Terschelling, +31 562 442 952.
• Grand Café Het Raadhuis, Torenstraat 15, West-Terschelling, +31 562 850 520. 10:00-22:00.
• Storm, Torenstraat 27, West-Terschelling, +31 562 443 232. 11:30-23:00.
• De Heksenketel, Willem Barentszkade 2, West-Terschelling, +31 562 442 452. Fri-Sun: 15:00-22:00.

Steakhouse Brasserie Brandaris, Boomstraat 3, West-Terschelling, +31 562 442 554. 11:00-23:00. Located close to the light house, this places serves bistro style food rather than real steak house meats, but it's a good pick if you're up for some spare-ribs or saté. However, they also serve fried fish and several vegetarian options. Mains from €16.50.

El Mundo, Boomstraat 31, West-Terschelling, +31 562 450 125. Wed-Sun: 17:00-23:00.

Grand Café Zeezicht, Willem Barentszkade 20, West Terschelling, +31 562 442 952.

Grand Café Het Raadhuis, Torenstraat 15, West-Terschelling, +31 562 850 520. 10:00-22:00.

Storm, Torenstraat 27, West-Terschelling, +31 562 443 232. 11:30-23:00.

De Heksenketel, Willem Barentszkade 2, West-Terschelling, +31 562 442 452. Fri-Sun: 15:00-22:00.

• Pannenhoekenhuis Hans & Grietje, Westerburen 4, Midsland, +31 562 448 482. €12.50.
• Eetcafé De Dammesaan, Oosterburen 3, Midsland, +31 562 449 261.
• Het Oud Hollandsch, Oosterburen 10, Midsland, +31 562 448 834.
• La Grotta, Oosterburen 30, Midsland, +31 562 448 415.
• 't Golfje, Heereweg 22A, +31 562 448 105.
• El Léon Rojo, Heereweg 11, Midsland, +31 562 449 350.
• De Drie Grapen, Dorreveldweg 2, Midsland, +31 562 448 975.
• De Kajuit, Formerum 33, Formerum, +31 562 449 685.
• Muziekcafé De Vijfpoort, Formerum 47, Formerum, +31 562 448 949.
• Eet- en Terrascafé De Rustende Jager, Molenweg 2, Formerum, +31 562 448 589. 11:00-23:00, kitchen closes at 21:30. Open the year round.. Restaurant, café and pub which often features live music in the weekends.

Pannenhoekenhuis Hans & Grietje, Westerburen 4, Midsland, +31 562 448 482. €12.50.

Eetcafé De Dammesaan, Oosterburen 3, Midsland, +31 562 449 261.

Het Oud Hollandsch, Oosterburen 10, Midsland, +31 562 448 834.

La Grotta, Oosterburen 30, Midsland, +31 562 448 415.

't Golfje, Heereweg 22A, +31 562 448 105.

El Léon Rojo, Heereweg 11, Midsland, +31 562 449 350.

De Drie Grapen, Dorreveldweg 2, Midsland, +31 562 448 975.

De Kajuit, Formerum 33, Formerum, +31 562 449 685.

Muziekcafé De Vijfpoort, Formerum 47, Formerum, +31 562 448 949.

Eet- en Terrascafé De Rustende Jager, Molenweg 2, Formerum, +31 562 448 589. 11:00-23:00, kitchen closes at 21:30. Open the year round.. Restaurant, café and pub which often features live music in the weekends.

• De Reis, Dorpstraat 58, Hoorn, +31 562 448 424.
• De Heeren van der Schelling, Oosterend 43, Oosterend, +31 562 448 780.
• De Boschplaat - Steak & Pancake, Oosterend 14, Oosterend, +31 562 448 824.

De Reis, Dorpstraat 58, Hoorn, +31 562 448 424.

De Heeren van der Schelling, Oosterend 43, Oosterend, +31 562 448 780.

De Boschplaat - Steak & Pancake, Oosterend 14, Oosterend, +31 562 448 824.

• OKA 18, Molenstraat 17, West, +31 0562 443109. 14:00 – 2:00.
• Bar-Dancing De Braskoer, Torenstraat 32, West, +31 0562 442197. 10:00 – 2:00. Bar and disco
• Bar-Dancing Wyb, Oosterburen 11, Midsland, +31 0562 448930.

OKA 18, Molenstraat 17, West, +31 0562 443109. 14:00 – 2:00.

Bar-Dancing De Braskoer, Torenstraat 32, West, +31 0562 442197. 10:00 – 2:00. Bar and disco

Bar-Dancing Wyb, Oosterburen 11, Midsland, +31 0562 448930.

There's fast ferry connection to the island of Vlieland. The other West Frisian Islands are great if you're looking for more of the same, but it you'd like to get back to mainland try charming Harlingen (where the ferry goes), or move on from there to lovely historic Franeker, Leeuwarden or bustling Groningen.

Alternatively, take the cause way to the Western Netherlands, where you'll find most of the famous Dutch destinations. It takes just a few hours to get from the island all the way to Amsterdam.