Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki (Greek: Θεσσαλονίκη, Turkish: Selanik, Serbian, Bulgarian, Macedonian: Солун, Solun) is the capital of the region of Central Macedonia, Greece, and is, at about one million inhabitants, the second largest city in the country. More importantly, it is a city with a continuous 3,000-year history, preserving relics of its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman past and of its formerly dominant Jewish population. Its Byzantine churches, in particular, are included in UNESCO's World Heritage list.

Thessaloniki lies on the northern fringe of the Thermaic Gulf on its eastern coast and is bound by Mount Chortiatis on its southeast. The metropolitan area, with population of about 1 million, can be divided roughly in 3 parts: The northwestern, the central and the southeastern.

The central part, corresponding to the region that used to be inside the Byzantine walls and can in turn be divided in the "Ano Poli" (Upper City) region which lies on the hillside that is actually the southwest end of Chortiatis, and the part of the city located between the Upper City and the sea.

The later is the "center" of Thessaloniki, as most commercial, entertainment and educational facilities can be found here, while this part of the city remains a dense populated residential area. It is the area surrounded by the seafront to the southwest, Olibiados street to the northeast, Dimokratias square to the northwest and the University campus and the facilities of Thessaloniki International Fair to the southeast. Most places with tourist interest are either in the center or very close to it.

Most roads in the center are either parallel or perpendicular to the coastline. A simple rule that helps the visitor is that if the a street goes downhill, then following it will lead you to the sea. The biggest parallel streets to the sea starting from the sea are Leoforos Nikis, Tsimiski Ioanni, Egnatia, Agiou Dimitriou and Kassandrou. The main vertical to the sea streets, starting from northwest, are Dragoumi Ionos, Venizelou Eleftheriou, Aristotelous, Agias Sofias and Ethinikis Aminis.

There are tourist info and ticket booths at the central bus stations. You can get a free bus line chart there. The tourist information office is at Tsimiski 136, a few minutes from the White Tower. It is open M-F 8AM-8PM, Sa 09:30-16:00 at winter and 08:00-20:00 at summer, Sun closed. If you find it closed, walk up to Aristotelous and buy a map from Iannos bookshop. You can also visit the OASTH website.

The northernmost Byzantine walls of the city and parts of the western walls are still standing, as is the city's symbol - the White Tower. The rest of the walls are in the picturesque Upper Town which offers a spectacular view over the bay, especially in the late afternoon.

The city is also known as "the mother of Israel", due to the once flourishing Jewish community here, which existed from the Roman period and grew substantially after the Ottoman Empire took in Jewish refugees expelled Spain, Portugal, and Spanish territories in Italy; these Jews are known as "Sephardim". Sephardi Jews formed a significant percentage of the city's population and infrastructure until World War II, when, in spring 1943, almost all were deported by the Nazis to the extermination camp at Auschwitz, never to return. However, there are still two Synagogues, and you can see the Jewish Museum.

Also interesting are the Turkish public baths Bey Hamam, the Bezesteni (Ottoman closed market for jewellery and precious materials) the Alatza Imaret (Ottoman poorhouse) and Hamza Bey Camii (both restored and used for exhibitions).

• White Tower. 8 h - 20 h (in the summer), 8 h - 16 h (in the winter). A 16th-century fortified tower, part of the city's erstwhilse Byzantine walls - the only surviving one on the seafront. 4 €.
• Aristotelous Square. the biggest of the city-and the promenade with its cafes and restaurants.
• The bustling Modiano and Kapani markets - see "Buy" below for details.
• Roman forum. 9 h - 16 h. Excavations and a very interesting museum underneath. 4 €.

White Tower. 8 h - 20 h (in the summer), 8 h - 16 h (in the winter). A 16th-century fortified tower, part of the city's erstwhilse Byzantine walls - the only surviving one on the seafront. 4 €.

Aristotelous Square. the biggest of the city-and the promenade with its cafes and restaurants.

The bustling Modiano and Kapani markets - see "Buy" below for details.

Roman forum. 9 h - 16 h. Excavations and a very interesting museum underneath. 4 €.

Visit the upper town for its traditional old houses, small cobbled streets, Byzantine citadel, the Eptapyrgion fort. Next to the Rotunda, see the Arch of Triumph of Galerius and the ruins of his palace.

On no account should you miss the Byzantine churches built between the 5th and 14th centuries, some of which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

• Rotunda, St. George Square. Started life as a Roman temple of Zeus, built by Caesar Galerius, and is almost as old as the Pantheon in Rome. The monument has a diameter of 24.5m and its dome reaches a height of 30m. It was converted into a Christian church during the Early Christian era, and its interior was decorated with magnificent mosaics. However some inside frescoes are a work of the British artist Alexander Rossi (1840-1916). In 1591 the Rotunda was converted into a mosque, and a tall minaret still stands beside the monument. Frequent earthquakes from the early 7th century until 1978 caused several damage. The latter caused the destruction of the dome section. After being restored, the monument reopened to the public in 1998.
• Saint Demetrios. Constructed in the mid-7th century on the ruins of a Roman bath complex, in honor of Demetrius, a Roman officer who was imprisoned and martyred here in 303 AD. An earlier small church, built on the site of martyrdom, burned down during the earthquake of 620 and a new large basilica was erected at expenses of Leontius, the Byzantine prefect of Illyricum and the Bishop of Thessaloniki. The new church of S. Demetrios became one of the most famous centers of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians until its Muslim conversion in 1492. In the Great Fire of Thessaloniki of 1917 the basilica was gutted. The work of restructuring the church lasted fifty years. Most of the ancient mosaics in the western wall and in the inner central aisle survived the heat from the fire. free.
• Church of the Acheiropoietos, Agias Sofias 56. A 5th-century church included in Thessaloniki’s UNESCO World heritage.
• Latomou Monastery.
• Hagia Sophia. 9th Century
• Panagia Chalkeon.
• Saint Catherine.
• Saint Panteleimon.
• Church of the Holy Apostles.
• Saint Nicholas Orphanos. Particularly worth a look for its well-preserved early 14th Century Byzantine frescoes. See if you can spot one of the turtles in the garden. free.
• Church of the Saviour.
• Vlatades Monastery.
• Church of Prophet Elijah.

Rotunda, St. George Square. Started life as a Roman temple of Zeus, built by Caesar Galerius, and is almost as old as the Pantheon in Rome. The monument has a diameter of 24.5m and its dome reaches a height of 30m. It was converted into a Christian church during the Early Christian era, and its interior was decorated with magnificent mosaics. However some inside frescoes are a work of the British artist Alexander Rossi (1840-1916). In 1591 the Rotunda was converted into a mosque, and a tall minaret still stands beside the monument. Frequent earthquakes from the early 7th century until 1978 caused several damage. The latter caused the destruction of the dome section. After being restored, the monument reopened to the public in 1998.

Saint Demetrios. Constructed in the mid-7th century on the ruins of a Roman bath complex, in honor of Demetrius, a Roman officer who was imprisoned and martyred here in 303 AD. An earlier small church, built on the site of martyrdom, burned down during the earthquake of 620 and a new large basilica was erected at expenses of Leontius, the Byzantine prefect of Illyricum and the Bishop of Thessaloniki. The new church of S. Demetrios became one of the most famous centers of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians until its Muslim conversion in 1492. In the Great Fire of Thessaloniki of 1917 the basilica was gutted. The work of restructuring the church lasted fifty years. Most of the ancient mosaics in the western wall and in the inner central aisle survived the heat from the fire. free.

Church of the Acheiropoietos, Agias Sofias 56. A 5th-century church included in Thessaloniki’s UNESCO World heritage.

Latomou Monastery.

Hagia Sophia. 9th Century

Panagia Chalkeon.

Saint Catherine.

Saint Panteleimon.

Church of the Holy Apostles.

Saint Nicholas Orphanos. Particularly worth a look for its well-preserved early 14th Century Byzantine frescoes. See if you can spot one of the turtles in the garden. free.

Church of the Saviour.

Vlatades Monastery.

Church of Prophet Elijah.

Thessaloniki is home to many museums, mostly archaeological and ethnographic. The two big archaeological museums are in the city centre, under the OTE Tower at the CHANTH Square. It is possible to obtain a pass for €15 which allows entry into five museums (valid for three days): Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum, Museum of Byzantine Culture, White Tower, Archaeological Site and Museum of the Roman Agora, and Galerian Complex. Note that Winter opening times are shorter than Summer opening times.

• Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum. Mon-Sun 8.00-20.00 (Summer). Andronikou st 6. Covers the history of Thessaloniki from prehistory to Roman times. Adults €8, children free.
• Museum of Byzantine Culture, Leoforos Stratou 2, +30 2313 306-400. 09:00-16:00 (winter) and 08:00-20:00 (summer). Stratou ave 2. Award-winning museum (2005 - best Museum of Europe). €8 (reduced price for students and during low season Nov-Mar).
• Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art, Egnatia St 154 (Inside Thessaloniki International Fair area near the OTE tower. Thu-Sun. €4.
• Teloglion Foundation of Art. Weekdays 09:00-14:00, Weekends 10:00-18:00. €5.
• Olympic Museum. Sports related.
• Atatürk House, Agiou Dimitriou St. The house where Kemal Atatürk was born.
• Museum at Aghios Demetrios, Agiou Dimitriou St.
• State Museum of Contemporary Art, Thessaloniki, Kolokotroni 25, Stavroupoli district.
• Museum at the White Tower, +30 2310 267832. Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00. Platia Lefkou Pyrgou €4, under 18 for free.
• Museum of Ancient Greek, Byzantine, and Post Byzantine Musical Instruments, Katouni 12 (in the Ladadika neighbourhood.
• Thessaloniki Museum of Photography, Harbor, Warehouse A.
• Museum of Cinematography in Thessaloniki, Harbor, Warehouse A. €2.
• Museum of Science.
• Folklore and Ethnological Museum of Macedonia and Thrace, Vassilisis Olgas St 68.
• Jewish Museum, Agiou Mina St 13. closed on Mondays. €5.
• Municipal Gallery of Art, Vassilisis Olgas St 162.
• War Museum of Thessaloniki, Grigoriou Lampraki St 4, +30 2310 249803. €4.
• Museum for the Macedonian Struggle, Proxenou Koromila 23. Mon-Fri 9.00-14.00, Sat 10.00-14.00. €2.

Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum. Mon-Sun 8.00-20.00 (Summer). Andronikou st 6. Covers the history of Thessaloniki from prehistory to Roman times. Adults €8, children free.

Museum of Byzantine Culture, Leoforos Stratou 2, +30 2313 306-400. 09:00-16:00 (winter) and 08:00-20:00 (summer). Stratou ave 2. Award-winning museum (2005 - best Museum of Europe). €8 (reduced price for students and during low season Nov-Mar).

Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art, Egnatia St 154 (Inside Thessaloniki International Fair area near the OTE tower. Thu-Sun. €4.

Teloglion Foundation of Art. Weekdays 09:00-14:00, Weekends 10:00-18:00. €5.

Olympic Museum. Sports related.

Atatürk House, Agiou Dimitriou St. The house where Kemal Atatürk was born.

Museum at Aghios Demetrios, Agiou Dimitriou St.

State Museum of Contemporary Art, Thessaloniki, Kolokotroni 25, Stavroupoli district.

Museum at the White Tower, +30 2310 267832. Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00. Platia Lefkou Pyrgou €4, under 18 for free.

Museum of Ancient Greek, Byzantine, and Post Byzantine Musical Instruments, Katouni 12 (in the Ladadika neighbourhood.

Thessaloniki Museum of Photography, Harbor, Warehouse A.

Museum of Cinematography in Thessaloniki, Harbor, Warehouse A. €2.

Museum of Science.

Folklore and Ethnological Museum of Macedonia and Thrace, Vassilisis Olgas St 68.

Jewish Museum, Agiou Mina St 13. closed on Mondays. €5.

Municipal Gallery of Art, Vassilisis Olgas St 162.

War Museum of Thessaloniki, Grigoriou Lampraki St 4, +30 2310 249803. €4.

Museum for the Macedonian Struggle, Proxenou Koromila 23. Mon-Fri 9.00-14.00, Sat 10.00-14.00. €2.

• Take a walk along the long seafront promenade (about 12 km altogether).
• Thessaloniki has a very active nightlife, as a 2007 New York Times article called it "Seattle of the Balkans".
• The very lively and youth-oriented international film festival is held in November, the International Trade Fair in September.
• Thessaloniki Concert Hall, "25 Μartiou" Str. (near the Posidonio Athletic Center of Thessaloniki - Kalamaria. The venue includes a main hall of 1,400 seats, designed by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki and inaugurated on 2 January 2000. The Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra plays Italian Operas and works of Greek composers. Current events listed on in their website.
• Waterland. A large Water park near Tagarades Hill. Free bus service starting at the City center
• Watch football ie soccer. The city has two teams playing in the Super League, the top tier of Greek football. PAOK FC play at Toumba Stadium, capacity 29,000, two km southeast of city centre. Newly promoted Aris Thessaloniki FC play at Kleanthis Vikelidis Stadium, capacity 22,800, a further km south.
• Join the amazing World Naked Bike Ride in Thessaloniki every year in June. A celebration of Cycling, Environment, Body Freedom!

Thermaikos Gulf is a challenging place for yachting and sailing. Many days there are strong North winds but with low waves making sailing a fun and joy for all sailors. There are three sailing clubs in Thessaloniki and world championships take place here every year. Thessaloniki has several marinas with a new one containing 182 mooring places under construction in the centre of the city and next to Aistotelous square. There are many yacht charter companies renting sailing yachts.

• Discovery Yachting, Thermaikou 21, +30 231 046 5269, +30 694 838 8098. Bareboat charter or skippered sailing yacht, also night time tours.
• Nautilia Yachting, Leoforos Karamanli Konstantinou 145, +30 231 055 8192. Nautilia Yachting is based in Thessaloniki, Greece, officially licensed by the Greek National Tourism Organization and specialized in organizing yacht charters in Greece.

Discovery Yachting, Thermaikou 21, +30 231 046 5269, +30 694 838 8098. Bareboat charter or skippered sailing yacht, also night time tours.

Nautilia Yachting, Leoforos Karamanli Konstantinou 145, +30 231 055 8192. Nautilia Yachting is based in Thessaloniki, Greece, officially licensed by the Greek National Tourism Organization and specialized in organizing yacht charters in Greece.

Take a walk along the long seafront promenade (about 12 km altogether).

Thessaloniki has a very active nightlife, as a 2007 New York Times article called it "Seattle of the Balkans".

Thessaloniki Concert Hall, "25 Μartiou" Str. (near the Posidonio Athletic Center of Thessaloniki - Kalamaria. The venue includes a main hall of 1,400 seats, designed by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki and inaugurated on 2 January 2000. The Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra plays Italian Operas and works of Greek composers. Current events listed on in their website.

Waterland. A large Water park near Tagarades Hill. Free bus service starting at the City center

Watch football ie soccer. The city has two teams playing in the Super League, the top tier of Greek football. PAOK FC play at Toumba Stadium, capacity 29,000, two km southeast of city centre. Newly promoted Aris Thessaloniki FC play at Kleanthis Vikelidis Stadium, capacity 22,800, a further km south.

Join the amazing World Naked Bike Ride in Thessaloniki every year in June. A celebration of Cycling, Environment, Body Freedom!

For fashion, Proxenou Koromila, Mitropoleos and Tsimiski. You won't find many bargains, but the shopping area is conveniently small and full of cafes when you get too tired. For cheaper clothing, check out Egnatia street.

Books and maps in various languages can be bought in stores such as:

• Ianos bookshop, Aristotelous Sq (in the city centre. Books & art-objects, cultural events.
• Traveler map store
• Maliaris-Pedia bookstore

Also in the 9th International Book Fair, that is held annually in late spring.

Ianos bookshop, Aristotelous Sq (in the city centre. Books & art-objects, cultural events.

Traveler map store

Maliaris-Pedia bookstore

You can buy local food products, such as olive oil, sometimes at significantly lower prices than in nearby countries.

For eating out, see the "Eat" section below

• Modiano market. The traditional central food market, with hundreds of stalls selling meat, fish, fruit, vegetables (sometimes cheek-by-jowl, an unnerving experience for North Americans), cheap clothes and shoes, flowers, herbs and spices, near Aristotele Square.

  * For food specialities, go to Modiano market and try the Terpsis and Omega delicatessens (the most famous is Kosmas, but it specialises in Asian food). Any Greek will expect you to bring back sweets from Salonica, so try tsoureki, plaited sweetened breads for which Terkenlis is famous, and desserts (baklava and galaktoboureko) e.g. or Nikiforou on Venizelou street. The most famous of the baklava joints is Hatzis, but fame has not made it any better - it's become overpriced and not as good as in previous years.

*For a morning or late-night snack, try Bougatsa pies: cream (sweet) or cheese (savoury) filling.

• Kapani Market. The city's oldest market, with a wide variety of shops.

Modiano market. The traditional central food market, with hundreds of stalls selling meat, fish, fruit, vegetables (sometimes cheek-by-jowl, an unnerving experience for North Americans), cheap clothes and shoes, flowers, herbs and spices, near Aristotele Square.

* For food specialities, go to Modiano market and try the Terpsis and Omega delicatessens (the most famous is Kosmas, but it specialises in Asian food). Any Greek will expect you to bring back sweets from Salonica, so try tsoureki, plaited sweetened breads for which Terkenlis is famous, and desserts (baklava and galaktoboureko) e.g. or Nikiforou on Venizelou street. The most famous of the baklava joints is Hatzis, but fame has not made it any better - it's become overpriced and not as good as in previous years.

Kapani Market. The city's oldest market, with a wide variety of shops.

If you like sweets, there are 3 typical pastry-shops you should try, typical of this city:

• Chatzis. Is famous for its collection of Greek Asia Minor sweets (politika glyka) originating from Constantinople.
• Terkenlis. Is famous for its variety of "tsoureki", a sweet bread much like brioche but containing spices too, covered and filled with several combinations of chocolates/creams/nuts, etc.
• Elenidis. Is considered the expert in "trigona" (triangles made of sfoglia, filled with cream).

Best winter dessert: baked quince.

Chatzis. Is famous for its collection of Greek Asia Minor sweets (politika glyka) originating from Constantinople.

Terkenlis. Is famous for its variety of "tsoureki", a sweet bread much like brioche but containing spices too, covered and filled with several combinations of chocolates/creams/nuts, etc.

Elenidis. Is considered the expert in "trigona" (triangles made of sfoglia, filled with cream).

Greeks consider Thessaloniki a gourmet city - but bear in mind that this refers to the excellent local specialities and cheap-and-cheerful ouzo taverns rather than to haute cuisine or a range of foreign restaurants. The latter are best avoided in Thessaloniki.

• Try a crepe in one of the numerous crepe shops patronised by the student population at Gounari St, near Navarinou Sq.
• There are plenty of shops selling gyros. Usually there are pork and chicken gyros. This is the best calories per money option, since with less that €3 you get a meal that, although not that healthy, can keep you going for many hours.
• During the winter you can try roasted chestnuts (kastana in Greek) that are sold from carts.
• During the summer one can buy boiled or roasted corn on the cob that is sold from carts. Cost €1-2.
• You can try stafidopsomo, a small bread with raisins, or koulouri a donut-shaped small bread with sesame. You can find them sold in a bakery or on carts. Cost: €0.50.
• For breakfast you can have a bougatsa, a type of cream pie, that Thessaloniki is famous for. You can accompany it with a cacao milk or coffee.
• For a carnivore's treat, try soutzoukakia: minced meat pellets either grilled (at the central market or rotisseries) and topped with chilli pepper flakes, or cooked in tomato and cumin sauce (Smyrna-style).
• For a late night (or early morning) meal try patsas (Tripe soup).
• Seafood: gemista kalamarakia (stuffed squid), mydopilafo (rice with mussels) or mydia saganaki (mussels in tomato sauce).

Go for a meal in one of the many central ouzo restaurants (ouzeri). Accompany your ouzo or tsipouro with a battery of small dishes - by far the best way to eat in Salonica. Particularly good are the fava beans, octopus either grilled or in wine sauce and mussels (fried, or in pilaff, or with a hot cheese sauce, saganaki). If you see "boiled vegetables' on the menu in wintertime, you'll be amazed at how good they taste. Another typical winter salad is politiki, a combination of shredded cabbage and pickles.

Many fast food options are found on the Dimitriou Gounari Street (between Rotonda and the sea).

• Agora, Kapodistriou 5 (Off Ionos Dragoumi. Ouzo restaurant (ouzeri) in one of the most interesting old downtown areas.
• Ano Poli. Tavern.
• Ellinikon. In the old warehouse area near the port, around Morichovou Sq, chock-full of restaurants, bars and clubs. Offers "appelation d'origine" local delicacies.
• Evi Evan, Olympou 68 (Bit-Bazaar.
• Glykia Symoria, Ioustinianou and Zaliki 1 (Bit-Bazaar.
• Goody's. Is the Greek fast-food chain. You will find classic hamburgers, also souvlaki, pasta and salads.
• Makedoniko.
• Pyrgos. A brasserie.
• Selini, +30 2310 221778.
• To Floro Ke To Laio, Baltadorou 11 and Benizelou (Bit-Bazaar.

Agora, Kapodistriou 5 (Off Ionos Dragoumi. Ouzo restaurant (ouzeri) in one of the most interesting old downtown areas.

Ano Poli. Tavern.

Ellinikon. In the old warehouse area near the port, around Morichovou Sq, chock-full of restaurants, bars and clubs. Offers "appelation d'origine" local delicacies.

Evi Evan, Olympou 68 (Bit-Bazaar.

Glykia Symoria, Ioustinianou and Zaliki 1 (Bit-Bazaar.

Goody's. Is the Greek fast-food chain. You will find classic hamburgers, also souvlaki, pasta and salads.

Makedoniko.

Pyrgos. A brasserie.

Selini, +30 2310 221778.

To Floro Ke To Laio, Baltadorou 11 and Benizelou (Bit-Bazaar.

• Apo Dyo Horia. Cretan and Pontian restaurant. Here, order raki rather than ouzo or tsipouro.
• Kamaras. Great traditional dishes.
• Lila Cafe Bistro, Diogenus 23 (Ano Toumba district, +30 2310 947377. Traditional pies and sweets, croissant and dishes accompany the coffee or your drink. Porcelain miniatures and collective drinks are available for original gifts.
• Myrsini. Good Cretan restaurant.
• Ouzo Melathron, Karipi 21.
• Pire kai vradiazei, Omirou 7 (Off Theagenio Hospital. Great taverna, unique style, good food and some days (Th-Su) live music.
• Pizza da Pepe, Stefanou Tatti 10 (Side street off Egnatia, near Aghia Sophia Church, +30 2310 242407. For the best pizzas in town head here.
• Toicho-Toicho, Polydorou 1 (Ano Poli (Kastra). An hipster hang-out, nice atmosphere, very expensive for the quality.
• Tombourlika, Navmachias Limnou 14 (Off Vardaris Sqare, +30 2310 548193. Great traditional ouzeri, with fresh fish and meat dishes and live rembetico music.
• Tsarouchas, Olymbou 78 (Off Ancient Forum. 24/7. For those with adventurous tastes, preferably go after a hard night's drinking, for a "patsás" (tripe) soup - a delicious way to prevent a hangover.
• Nea Diagonios, Nik. Plastira 89, Kalamaria (Take the bus 5 from Aristotelous square stop at Akaion Station, +302310029085. 12:30 to 00:00. Here you can eat pork gyros and soutzoukakia 15€.

Apo Dyo Horia. Cretan and Pontian restaurant. Here, order raki rather than ouzo or tsipouro.

Kamaras. Great traditional dishes.

Lila Cafe Bistro, Diogenus 23 (Ano Toumba district, +30 2310 947377. Traditional pies and sweets, croissant and dishes accompany the coffee or your drink. Porcelain miniatures and collective drinks are available for original gifts.

Myrsini. Good Cretan restaurant.

Ouzo Melathron, Karipi 21.

Pire kai vradiazei, Omirou 7 (Off Theagenio Hospital. Great taverna, unique style, good food and some days (Th-Su) live music.

Pizza da Pepe, Stefanou Tatti 10 (Side street off Egnatia, near Aghia Sophia Church, +30 2310 242407. For the best pizzas in town head here.

Toicho-Toicho, Polydorou 1 (Ano Poli (Kastra). An hipster hang-out, nice atmosphere, very expensive for the quality.

Tombourlika, Navmachias Limnou 14 (Off Vardaris Sqare, +30 2310 548193. Great traditional ouzeri, with fresh fish and meat dishes and live rembetico music.

Tsarouchas, Olymbou 78 (Off Ancient Forum. 24/7. For those with adventurous tastes, preferably go after a hard night's drinking, for a "patsás" (tripe) soup - a delicious way to prevent a hangover.

Nea Diagonios, Nik. Plastira 89, Kalamaria (Take the bus 5 from Aristotelous square stop at Akaion Station, +302310029085. 12:30 to 00:00. Here you can eat pork gyros and soutzoukakia 15€.

• Krikelas, Ladadika (Near Morichovou Sq.
• Odos Aristotelous, Odos Aristotelous. Most Salonicans know it as the "Lepen"
• Zythos-Dore. An upmarket brasserie with a wide range of specialties and interesting ambiance.

Krikelas, Ladadika (Near Morichovou Sq.

Odos Aristotelous, Odos Aristotelous. Most Salonicans know it as the "Lepen"

Zythos-Dore. An upmarket brasserie with a wide range of specialties and interesting ambiance.

Try a crepe in one of the numerous crepe shops patronised by the student population at Gounari St, near Navarinou Sq.

There are plenty of shops selling gyros. Usually there are pork and chicken gyros. This is the best calories per money option, since with less that €3 you get a meal that, although not that healthy, can keep you going for many hours.

During the winter you can try roasted chestnuts (kastana in Greek) that are sold from carts.

During the summer one can buy boiled or roasted corn on the cob that is sold from carts. Cost €1-2.

You can try stafidopsomo, a small bread with raisins, or koulouri a donut-shaped small bread with sesame. You can find them sold in a bakery or on carts. Cost: €0.50.

For breakfast you can have a bougatsa, a type of cream pie, that Thessaloniki is famous for. You can accompany it with a cacao milk or coffee.

For a carnivore's treat, try soutzoukakia: minced meat pellets either grilled (at the central market or rotisseries) and topped with chilli pepper flakes, or cooked in tomato and cumin sauce (Smyrna-style).

For a late night (or early morning) meal try patsas (Tripe soup).

Seafood: gemista kalamarakia (stuffed squid), mydopilafo (rice with mussels) or mydia saganaki (mussels in tomato sauce).

Thessaloniki is by far the liveliest city in Northern Greece- maybe even the whole country. Most of the trendy bars at the old sea-front (Nikis Ave.) and around, many of the tavernas are either downtown or in the old city (Kastra). You can also find numerous bars and tavernas at Krini, an area in eastern Thessaloniki. If you want to check out what the whole bouzoukia scene is all about, try the clubs Pyli Axiou and Mamounia, at Vilka. You will also find a lot of night clubs, bars and restaurants in Ladadika, the neighbourhood with the old warehouses next to the port. The student area is around Kamara (the Arch of Galerius), with many cheaper cafes and bars.

If you will be in town during summer, take a ride on the floating bars plying the harbour. Every 2 hr or so they leave from the White Tower area for a short evening trip (30 min) in the Gulf of Thessaloniki. They play mostly ethnic and alternative foreign music.

A beer would cost you €3-7, an alcohol drink €5-10 and a coffee €2.50-5.

Among the most popular places to drink a coffee or a beer are:

• Aristotle Sq (Aristotelous) - The most popular tourist cafés and bars lie in the central square of the city and the homonymous street. One can find quiet cafes or noisy ones usually preferred by the young. Breakfast is also served, some restaurants are also available.
• Nikis’ Av - The center’s seafront avenue is full of cafeterias usually crowded around the clock, available for coffee in daytime and beer or drink at night.
• Proxenou Kroromila St - Parallel to the seafront Nikis avenue is Pr. Koromila street with some cafés and bars.
• Iktinou pedestrian - Another place in the city with cafes and bars and a couple of restaurants. The last two years a "street beer" culture has been created by both locals and students. People just buy beer from the kiosks and hang out on the surrounding benches. This is probably one of the most economic ways to drink some Retsina and socialize with locals.
• Ladadika district - At the west side of the center lies the picturesque neighbourhood of Ladadika (meaning: oil stores). Named this way by the many stores selling oil arrived from the adjacent harbour. Formerly notorious district, recently renovated with many stone build warehouses now host the most known nightclubs with all sorts of music including traditional Greek bouzoukia.

• Aretsou - Aretsou is located in the southeast part of the city, in the Kalamaria District. In the seafront Plastira Av. are restaurants which change to bars during night featuring loud music and hosting many young.
• Karabournaki - A place in Kalamaria district hosting delicate bars, restaurants and pizzerias. All of them along Sofouli street next to the seashore.
• Boat bars - Quite interesting are the boats near the white tower’s seafront, which make a short trip around Thermaikos gulf where you can enjoy a late night city view. Most of them play ethnic and alternative foreign music.
• Vilka. (The area around the old trains station) - A set of high-range café, bars, restaurants, disco, ouzeris some with live music at the city’s west.
• Valaoritou and Syggrou - Over the last 2 years a lot of Thessaloniki's nightlife has moved here. The old industrial centre has become a place for entertainment for everybody. Many bars, clubs and cafes may remind you of Berlin, or English pubs.
• Mylos Club, 56 "Andrea Georgiou" Str., +30 231 051 0081. Hosting concerts, events, exhibitions, music bands, famous Greek artists etc. Venue can change. Check their page on Facebook.

Aristotle Sq (Aristotelous) - The most popular tourist cafés and bars lie in the central square of the city and the homonymous street. One can find quiet cafes or noisy ones usually preferred by the young. Breakfast is also served, some restaurants are also available.

Nikis’ Av - The center’s seafront avenue is full of cafeterias usually crowded around the clock, available for coffee in daytime and beer or drink at night.

Proxenou Kroromila St - Parallel to the seafront Nikis avenue is Pr. Koromila street with some cafés and bars.

Iktinou pedestrian - Another place in the city with cafes and bars and a couple of restaurants. The last two years a "street beer" culture has been created by both locals and students. People just buy beer from the kiosks and hang out on the surrounding benches. This is probably one of the most economic ways to drink some Retsina and socialize with locals.

Ladadika district - At the west side of the center lies the picturesque neighbourhood of Ladadika (meaning: oil stores). Named this way by the many stores selling oil arrived from the adjacent harbour. Formerly notorious district, recently renovated with many stone build warehouses now host the most known nightclubs with all sorts of music including traditional Greek bouzoukia.

Aretsou - Aretsou is located in the southeast part of the city, in the Kalamaria District. In the seafront Plastira Av. are restaurants which change to bars during night featuring loud music and hosting many young.

Karabournaki - A place in Kalamaria district hosting delicate bars, restaurants and pizzerias. All of them along Sofouli street next to the seashore.

Boat bars - Quite interesting are the boats near the white tower’s seafront, which make a short trip around Thermaikos gulf where you can enjoy a late night city view. Most of them play ethnic and alternative foreign music.

Vilka. (The area around the old trains station) - A set of high-range café, bars, restaurants, disco, ouzeris some with live music at the city’s west.

Valaoritou and Syggrou - Over the last 2 years a lot of Thessaloniki's nightlife has moved here. The old industrial centre has become a place for entertainment for everybody. Many bars, clubs and cafes may remind you of Berlin, or English pubs.

Mylos Club, 56 "Andrea Georgiou" Str., +30 231 051 0081. Hosting concerts, events, exhibitions, music bands, famous Greek artists etc. Venue can change. Check their page on Facebook.

There are many Internet cafes and bars, restaurants or coffee shops that offer free wireless internet (wi-fi).

There are also free Wi-Fi hotspots in several public places: Thessaloniki International Fair, in the park outside the White Tower, and on Aristotelous Square.

At Thessaloniki airport, go up to the restaurant on the 2nd floor for free, fast (16 Mbps) wifi (SSID "Goodbye Free Wifi"). The IKEA store (4 km north of the airport) has free WiFi as well.

Watch your pockets and travel documents as there are pickpockets, especially in buses during rush hour.

Some people may feel very uncomfortable walking in the areas near the railway station at night, as there are several brothels there.

Police number: 100

Tap water is safe to drink. In some places in the city centre you might get a slight "taste" from the water. That means that the pipes in the building are getting old, so you might want to buy bottled water.

Greece is a sunny place, and if your skin is light-coloured, intense sunlight can be a serious danger. Use sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.

Emergency phone number: 112

The suburb of Panorama is well heeled and has good restaurants, and spectacular views over Thessaloniki - especially at sunset.

The classic trips out of Thessaloniki are:

• Serres: The second largest city in Greece's Macedonia region and close to the Bulgarian towns of Melnik and Bansko and Pirin National Park
• Kavala and Philippi: About 160km east of Thessaloniki is Kavala, one of the most beautiful cities of Greece and is especially recommended to visit. The ancient site of Philippi is particularly known by Apostle Paul and the first Christian baptism in Europe
• The Island Thasos is a green island with high mountains and wonderful beaches. You can visit the island on a day trip but its definitively worth to spent more days. There are ferry boats from Kavala harbor and Keramoti.
• There are 500 km of wonderful beaches on the two first fingers of Halkidikí peninsula, one of the main tourist destinations of Greece. The first "finger" from the West is called Kassandra and its the place where many Salonicans (and tourists) spend their holidays. The second "finger" called Sithonia is the most beautiful place of Halkidiki both in landscape and beaches. In the summer, the Armenistis campground (Sithonia peninsula) stages concerts and other events. Also check out the jazz and classical concerts in Sani (Kassandra peninsula). Try to schedule your visit in summer so that you're not driving back to the city on Sunday evening. The third finger is the monastic community of Mount Athos. Mount Athos is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This peninsula houses over 1,700 monks in 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries. The visit is strictly controlled and only male visitors are allowed. Tourist require a visa. But there are also sightseeing boats that offer tours around the peninsula (without landing). These do not require permits and are the only option for women who want to see Mount Athos. The boat tours start in Ouranopolis from about 10 o'clock.
• Mount Olympus coast, towards Platamonas, a very scenic region which has fallen out of favour with the trendy set but has lost no business - it is now mainly catering to tourists from Eastern Europe.
• Pella, the Macedonian capital during the time of Alexander the Great.
• Vergina, the spectacular site of the Macedonian royal tombs.
• Dion, a beautiful archeological site near Mount Olympus.
• Prespa and Doirani lakes near the borders with Albania and North Macedonia, respectively, the Prespas especially offering an austere and evocative Balkan landscape and plenty of birdwatching.

[[Serres]]: The second largest city in [[Macedonia (Greece)|Greece's Macedonia region]] and close to the [[Bulgaria|Bulgarian]] towns of [[Melnik]] and [[Bansko]] and [[Pirin National Park]]

[[Kavala]] and [[Philippi]]: About 160km east of Thessaloniki is Kavala, one of the most beautiful cities of Greece and is especially recommended to visit. The ancient site of Philippi is particularly known by Apostle Paul and the first Christian baptism in Europe

The Island [[Thasos]] is a green island with high mountains and wonderful beaches. You can visit the island on a day trip but its definitively worth to spent more days. There are ferry boats from Kavala harbor and Keramoti.

There are 500 km of wonderful beaches on the two first fingers of [[Chalkidiki|Halkidikí]] peninsula, one of the main tourist destinations of Greece. The first "finger" from the West is called [[Kassandra]] and its the place where many Salonicans (and tourists) spend their holidays. The second "finger" called [[Sithonia]] is the most beautiful place of Halkidiki both in landscape and beaches. In the summer, the Armenistis campground (Sithonia peninsula) stages concerts and other events. Also check out the jazz and classical concerts in Sani (Kassandra peninsula). Try to schedule your visit in summer so that you're not driving back to the city on Sunday evening. The third finger is the monastic community of [[Mount Athos]]. Mount Athos is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This peninsula houses over 1,700 monks in 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries. The visit is strictly controlled and only male visitors are allowed. Tourist require a visa. But there are also sightseeing boats that offer tours around the peninsula (without landing). These do not require permits and are the only option for women who want to see Mount Athos. The boat tours start in Ouranopolis from about 10 o'clock.

Mount Olympus coast, towards [[Platamonas]], a very scenic region which has fallen out of favour with the trendy set but has lost no business - it is now mainly catering to tourists from Eastern Europe.

[[Pella (region)|Pella]], the Macedonian capital during the time of Alexander the Great.

Vergina, the spectacular site of the Macedonian royal tombs.

Dion, a beautiful archeological site near Mount Olympus.

[[Prespa|Prespa and Doirani lakes]] near the borders with Albania and North Macedonia, respectively, the Prespas especially offering an austere and evocative Balkan landscape and plenty of birdwatching.