Palolem

India

Palolem is a village in South Goa, India.

Palolem is one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Goa. It is a natural bay surrounded by lofty headlands on either sides, resulting in a calm, idyllic sea with a gently sloping bed which allows you to walk up to 100 m out from the beach.

Palolem is located at almost the southern end of Goa and is thus far from the more crowded places. This is in a way both an advantage and a disadvantage. For those seeking quiet and solitude, Palolem and the other beaches around it fulfill that need very well. But for those who need a noisy, vibrant place, it can be quite disconcerting.

Over the last few years, though, there has been a fair increase in tourists. One reason for this could be the film The Bourne Supremacy which had a scene filmed here. During the peak season, the place can become quite crowded with backpackers, travelling groups and the attendant businesses.

Unfortunately Palolem has been saturated by travellers, hawkers and over priced sellers: it is sometimes difficult to walk up the beach at high tide due to the restaurants jutting into the cresting waves and you will certainly be asked about your plans for dinner a few times.

Cotigao wildlife sanctuary is a good day trip from Palolem. You can also ride along the narrow but beautiful coastal road northwards to visit Agonda beach and still further north Cabo da Rama(a ruined fort on a cliff).

Sunset over Green Island from Palolem Beach

Take a walk to Butterfly Island, which is to your right on entering the beach. You can walk along the beach and across some rocks during low tide and reach the island, during high tide water covers and makes it impossible to walk across. The island has a network of trails to explore and the more adventurous can traverse the rocks on the periphery of the island. Make sure you carry your water bottle and be careful, people have injured themselves walking over these rocks.

Further on to the right is Butterfly Beach. You'll need a boat to get there but worth a trip for a change of scenery. It has a very steep beach, so deep that you can dive in from the waters edge if you time your dive correctly.

Further on still is Honeymoon Beach, a small strip of beach which generally brings you total seclusion. These islands are usually visited by couples who want get away from the prying eyes of tourists.

The best time for a boat ride to these islands is either in the morning at 07:00 or in the evening around 17:00 when you can see the setting sun from the boat. You need to bargain with the boatsman to get a good deal, there are quite a few running these boats and it would be best to talk to 3-4 before agreeing. A good price is ₹700-₹800 for an hour long ride.

Palolem is a small beach town but do take long walks. Carry a torch if walking along the beach at night. If you happen to be there on a full moon night, its quite an experience stolling on the beach on a full moon night with the islands clearly visible in the moon light,you will find people partying late into the night up to 02:00 - 03:00 in the morning. Immediately to the south of Palolem, which gets busier every season, is the beautiful Columb Bay where you can stay in a comfortable yet eco friendly complex. Just beyond is Patnem beach which used to be much quieter than Palolem but has a few guest houses and beach shacks.

You can take a boat ride in the river joining the sea on northern side of the Palolem beach.

Very quiet and more in the 1960s than in the 21st c (thank goodness). No jet skis.

From Palolem you can find some outdoor sport as :

  • Scuba diving ( near Palolem Guest house )
  • Canyoning and trekking tour ( book at Casa Fiesta restaurant )
  • Rent self-paddle sea kayak boat(in samson`s kiosk)

  • Take a boat trip to see Dolphins, best time is sunset and sunrise, great boat crew near the Church on the right hand side.
  • Day trip to Dudhsagar Falls (Sea of Milk) which are in the top 100 highest falls in the world.
  • Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
  • A visit to the spice farms.
  • A day trip to Karwar. The drive is nice, though hot during the day. Just before entering Karwar town, the Kali Bridge offers awesome views of the idyllic Karwar Beach, especially from a "Fort" in ruins (actually a recreation point, possibly developed by local municipality. This spot is on the north end of the bridge and has flight of stairs going almost 15.2 m.
  • Take a fishing boat ride with local fishermen

Spend a day in Agonda 20 km north of Palolem, very quiet beach. Further north there is an old fort (Cap de Rama) and beautiful views as you drive over the hills.

  • Yoga Classes - In a colourful Yoga Space Kranti Yoga Ashtanga Vinyasa has Drop In Class every morning(09:00) & afternoon(16:00) see signs from the Beach for Kranti Ashtanga Yoga behind Cuba Bar or from Brown Bread Restaurant. Kranti (the teacher) is knowledgeable and has a charismatic personality his classes are not for the fainthearted but you may be exhilarated afterwards.
  • Silent Noise-Party, Neptunes Point (south of the main-beach. THE alternative to the legendary but almost extinct goa-parties. Big crowds of children gather every Saturday for serious partying and dancing underneath the starry sky. You'll be handed wireless headphones with three different channels. Entrance fee is ₹600/person [as per the recently concludes Silent Noise: season 7]

One of the most beautiful Goan beaches, although not as peaceful as it used to be (sometimes referred to as the Goan lost paradise). Palolem Beach is long beach now entirely filled with rooms and huts (₹150-₹400) and restaurants, sometimes with live music. There's also a market for tourists. Walk the beach at night with a torch and you'll be amazed by crabs running away from you.

Silent Noise-Party, Neptunes Point (south of the main-beach. THE alternative to the legendary but almost extinct goa-parties. Big crowds of children gather every Saturday for serious partying and dancing underneath the starry sky. You'll be handed wireless headphones with three different channels. Entrance fee is ₹600/person [as per the recently concludes Silent Noise: season 7]

If you are a shopaholic this is perhaps not the best place, but there are great crafts people on the beaches (stone carvers, instrument makers etc.). Be very firm but polite if you don't want their wares:they are much more polite and civilised than sellers on other Indian beaches. The situation has got worse in recent years though with the result that there are now far too many beach sellers. Your best bet is to compare their prices with what the shops are charging, generally the shops are cheaper. There are also many beggars, some are regulars who follow the tourist season and the tourists around, but giving ₹10 or ₹20 to an old woman will not kill you.

On the beach front and inland there are many wonderful little music shops, spice shops and garment shops. The hippy influence over the years means that they can let you chill out and choose rather than trying to hard sell you from the second you enter the shop. Some of the shops are now owned by westerners offering western labels at cheap but fixed prices.

There are no ATMs near the beach in Palolem. There is one that is 2 km away from the main stretch of restaurants and shops that the rickshaw drivers will take you to at a heightened charge (try to get ₹40 there and back, but you may need to pay ₹60 or ₹70). More shops, a Saturday market and several ATMs are a 10-minute drive away in the local town, Chaudi.

Some people are under the misapprehension that most of the food in Palolem is quite westernised. However, most places serve both "international" food and Indian - so you have the choice. There are great curries and rotis/nan/chippati/rice almost everywhere and these are great and very cheap to live on. Being more sensitive to local needs and choosing local brands is more environmentally sound, means that you help the local economy more as your money doesn't just go on exports, halves the cost of your stay and give you a more Indian experience. Also remember that the chefs idea of an western dish may be slightly different than yours in some of the restaurants.

Local trade is mainly tourism and fishing, so your fish dinner is certainly from the sea. A good fish main course usually starts from ₹300.

Fernandes, just past the church on the right hand side of the beach, great Indian food and tandoori plus fairly cheap and fresh fish, a favourite for old regulars.

Palolem Beach Resort, curries in Palolem tend to be quite lacklustre, but the Palolem Beach Resort does a great paneer butter masala and chana masala with garlic naan and rice. Chicken is great here too. The service is really poor and most of the focus is on foreign tourists, best avoided. The food quality is OL and portion size is quite generous. One of the few places on the beach where there is a proper restaurant and clean washrooms and a proper kitchen. They also have a large wall mounted TV, which mostly plays football to cater to western tastes.

Cool Breeze - a jazz café that is quite popular with the locals, great food.

Sameer Restaurant - good breakfasts. It's on the beach, so fantastic views of the ocean.

  • Café Inn. Known for its freshly ground coffee from an Italian espresso machine. Recommended for breakfasts, for the variety of special sandwiches and wraps, large variety of mezethes, cakes and pastries (must try almond croissant). In the afternoons and evenings it's recommended to come for the BBQ, where you can have your choice of meat (chicken, beef and lamb) or sea food, marinated in variety of sauces and served with more than 10 types of salads, on a plate or in middle eastern Lafa. Top Choice at the 'South India & Kerala' Lonely Planet.
  • Dropadi, near centre light (near the main entrance to the beach. Probably the best and most popular restaurant in Palolem. Serves a good variety of food and the service here is good with friendly waiters who are willing to go the extra mile to serve you. Tandoori fish speciality.
  • Magic Italy, Palolem Beach Road, on the left as you approach the beach (Walk down short road towards the beach. It's on the left.. The best pizza in Palolem, possibly India. Try their Four Cheese or Spinach pizzas. Cosy, with a selection of tables or cushions on the floor. There is a takeaway version of this next to the coffee house on the beach road. From ₹200 for a pizza.
  • Smugglers' Inn, on the road running parallel with the beach.. Until late, open during wet season.. British run bar serving old favourites like fish and chips, bangers and mash, bacon sandwiches. Go here if you want a big mug of British tea and HP brown sauce. Mains from ₹90. Since a since change in management between the 2009-10 and 2010-11 seasons, this place has slid downhill. The bacon and sausages, once its selling point, aren't what they used to be and there's no longer an inside, 'pubby' feel to it. It's difficult to justify the higher prices now.
  • Yum Yum Tom Yum, +91 9049775449, +91 7798681077. Great Thai food cooked by a Thai woman. It is authentic and delicious. They have rooms available as well, but the food is the thing here. Friendly German-Goan guy and his Thai girlfriend run this place. Simple wooden tables.
  • The Lotus Lounge. Located back from the beach, at the north end. It can be a challenge to find: through Dream Catcher Cabins to the riverside location. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served seven days a week. The food is superb, of excellent quality with strong European influences. French-press coffee is available.
  • Spicy Bella, main Road, near Bus Stop, +91 9923471292. spicy bella, main road,near bus stop. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served seven days a week.
  • D'Costa Bar & Restaurant. This is a run of the mill place and you won't notice anything to make it stand out from the other beach shacks, but the service is great and food good value for money.

Café Inn. Known for its freshly ground coffee from an Italian espresso machine. Recommended for breakfasts, for the variety of special sandwiches and wraps, large variety of mezethes, cakes and pastries (must try almond croissant). In the afternoons and evenings it's recommended to come for the BBQ, where you can have your choice of meat (chicken, beef and lamb) or sea food, marinated in variety of sauces and served with more than 10 types of salads, on a plate or in middle eastern Lafa. Top Choice at the 'South India & Kerala' Lonely Planet.

Dropadi, near centre light (near the main entrance to the beach. Probably the best and most popular restaurant in Palolem. Serves a good variety of food and the service here is good with friendly waiters who are willing to go the extra mile to serve you. Tandoori fish speciality.

Magic Italy, Palolem Beach Road, on the left as you approach the beach (Walk down short road towards the beach. It's on the left.. The best pizza in Palolem, possibly India. Try their Four Cheese or Spinach pizzas. Cosy, with a selection of tables or cushions on the floor. There is a takeaway version of this next to the coffee house on the beach road. From ₹200 for a pizza.

Smugglers' Inn, on the road running parallel with the beach.. Until late, open during wet season.. British run bar serving old favourites like fish and chips, bangers and mash, bacon sandwiches. Go here if you want a big mug of British tea and HP brown sauce. Mains from ₹90. Since a since change in management between the 2009-10 and 2010-11 seasons, this place has slid downhill. The bacon and sausages, once its selling point, aren't what they used to be and there's no longer an inside, 'pubby' feel to it. It's difficult to justify the higher prices now.

Yum Yum Tom Yum, +91 9049775449, +91 7798681077. Great Thai food cooked by a Thai woman. It is authentic and delicious. They have rooms available as well, but the food is the thing here. Friendly German-Goan guy and his Thai girlfriend run this place. Simple wooden tables.

The Lotus Lounge. Located back from the beach, at the north end. It can be a challenge to find: through Dream Catcher Cabins to the riverside location. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served seven days a week. The food is superb, of excellent quality with strong European influences. French-press coffee is available.

Spicy Bella, main Road, near Bus Stop, +91 9923471292. spicy bella, main road,near bus stop. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served seven days a week.

D'Costa Bar & Restaurant. This is a run of the mill place and you won't notice anything to make it stand out from the other beach shacks, but the service is great and food good value for money.

There are many places along the beach serving alcohol and are usually your best bet if you want to mingle and meet new people. Try the Sameer Restaurant or Café del Mar which are supposed to be quite happening. There are two places on the main road with cable so you can watch football.

Also Cuba bar on the main road just before you take a left towards the beach plays good music, has a pool table and great atmosphere.

The days of partys in Palolem are over now but there a few things happening at night, ask people. For a different experience try the Headphone Party at the Alpha Bar on Wed /Thur.

  • Euphoria Multicuise Veg Restaurant and Juice/Cocktail Bar. Located to the main road to Palolem Beach is a fresh fruit juice and cocktail bar. Specialises in organic Indian/Chinese food.

Euphoria Multicuise Veg Restaurant and Juice/Cocktail Bar. Located to the main road to Palolem Beach is a fresh fruit juice and cocktail bar. Specialises in organic Indian/Chinese food.

Palolem is a very safe place - the main risk you face is not wanting to leave.

One thing to bear in mind is the dog situation - Palolem is home to a multitude of stray and semi-stray dogs which can become very aggressive if you try to cross their territory. They very rarely bite, but can be quite frightening especially in packs. The beach dogs are not generally aggressive and the main problems they present are fleas and mange, but the dogs on the back roads away from the beach can be noisy and peevish. Many dogs in Goa are badly treated by their owners, and some have no owners at all. Please do not harm the dogs of Goa, but be aware that they can be a nuisance.

There were also people selling mehndi (similar to henna) carelessly mixed with cheaper chemicals.

The local train station is Canacona is less than 5 minutes drive from Palolem. It's very quiet with not many trains.

If you want more choice, get a taxi to Margao where you can link up with all the main lines. If you have a little extra time and you want to save money, take the local buses. Dirt cheap, respectful locals and careful drivers. For a taxi ride that would cost you ₹1000 upwards (depending on what the cabbie thinks he can make off of you), you could get there for ₹17!!

Don't miss the chance to haggle with flashy yellow plate cars. These are taxis heading to the Airport. (Though all yellow plate cars are taxis, the flashy ones usually head to the airport. These are either returning or heading to pick a prebooking. Haggle hard and you may settle for under ₹500, though only during the day. As the sun goes down, the price goes up, which is normal for all facilities.

If you are interested in exploring nearby places, like the Patnem beach about 2-3 kilometres away, rent a bicycle. Better yet, rent a scooter/motorcycle for about ₹300-₹500 per day and explore the area even more conveniently.

A little quieter (and more expensive) than Palolem is Agonda, a 15-minute autorickshaw trip north.