Ikeda

Ikeda also known as Awa-Ikeda (阿波池田), is the town center for Miyoshi City in the central part of the island of Shikoku, Japan.

Iya Valley

Located at the crossroads of central Shikoku on the banks of the Yoshino River and surrounded by lush green mountains, Ikeda has a long history serving as a commercial and travel hub for the region. For decades the products from the Iya Valley and outlying areas moved through here to markets elsewhere, traveling by boat down the river to Tokushima City and beyond, with the main cash crop traded out being tobacco. Reaching its heyday in the 1960s and 70s, Ikeda also became famed for its high school baseball team, and for anyone in Japan born before 1980, they will almost certainly have heard of how this obscure little town would repeatedly win and/or be the team to beat in the national championship. Nowadays, Ikeda is a lot more subdued. The tobacco industry collapsed in the 1980s, and what was a large processing plant for the crop has now been rebuilt into the town's main shopping center. As the river has been dammed, boats no longer ply the route to Tokushima and its been decades since the local boys have won a baseball championship, having recently only qualified for the tournament very occasionally. The main shopping arcade which extends from the station is no longer bustling, and the large majority of shops and pubs there are either devoid of customers or simply closed up. It still remains the areas administrative center with banking, hospital, and various other residential services, and for the traveler it continues to be a transport hub for the region, though most people only pass through or just stock up on supplies here as the more remote valleys and mountain areas lack the stores Ikeda still has to offer (few that they may be compared to larger Shikoku towns). Ikeda could also serve as a nice place to stay if looking for a central base and if wishing for a bit more in the way of restaurants, drinking, and shopping, but the real splendor of the region in Iya and Oboke/Koboke are still quite a bit farther out, and accommodation in those places may be more in line with one's image of deep Japan.

An Awa Bank is located at the end of the arcade, though you may/may not be able to do a US dollar cash exchange. A JP office with an ATM that takes foreign cards and English display is located about halfway down the arcade and then one and a half blocks to the left (when going from the train station). Hours are 9am to 6pm weekdays, and close a bit earlier on weekends. Either one of Ikeda's two 7/11s also take foreign bank cards with multi-language availability.

There are few sights in the town, but a couple blocks just after the end of the shopping arcade is the historic district (don't blink as you walk by, or you might miss it). There are a few restored buildings, a shop or two, and a Tobacco Museum in a pretty old house (with a small traditional Japanese garden) that highlights the once thriving tobacco industry of the area. On some weekends this area holds an outdoor flea market of local arts and food.

Most people use Ikeda as a hub for going elsewhere. Food, drink, and gear can be stocked up here before heading out, as the more picturesque and adventurous areas around have only limited supplies available.

  • Unpenji Temple This is temple 66 of the 88 Temple Shikoku Pilgrimage. Located on a mountain top in the western part of town, near the border of Shikoku-chuo City (aka Kawanoe). To access, drive out westward from the town center on route 192 about 10-15 minutes, then follow the signs (in English) for the turn off on the right side. Drive a winding road up the mountain or park at the bottom of the mountain to hike the whole way (about 2 hours). Bring water if hiking. (Alternately, a cable car lift can be taken here from the north side of the mountain from Kanonji City in Kagawa Prefecture.) At 920m, it is the highest temple of the 88 Temple route.
  • The Ikawa X Park has now closed.

  • Awa-Odori The biggest festival in Ikeda is the annual Awa-Odori street dancing event held for three days each August 14-16 . Though not nearly as big as the main Awa-Odori event held in Tokushima City at the same time of year, the Ikeda event is still lots of fun and the streets are full of performing dance groups decked out in costume. Festivities are held each evening starting about 6pm, with lots of street vendors and locals out in yukata. It may even be possible that you will be pulled in to participate.
  • Shikoku Sake Tasting Festival Held usually the third weekend of February, dozens of Shikoku's sake brewers converge in Ikeda to show off their flavors. The three local distilleries also open their doors to the public for tours/tasting. A great experience for any hard core sake aficionado, though expect lots of middle aged Japanese men getting their game on. Tickets at door are 2000yen. http://www.shikoku-sakematuri.com/ in Japanese (an English description an be found here)

A large shopping center is located in the same parking area as the bus station, including a supermarket, 100yen shop, and a home center . Some camping supplies can be found here. Most stores are open 9am to 8pm (home center is open till 7:30pm) A 24 hour 7/11 is located just beyond the home center. From the train station, a generally lifeless shopping arcade extends straight in front of it. There are few stores that sell anything here anymore, just some restaurants/pubs. An Awa Bank is located at the end of the arcade, though you may/may not be able to do a US dollar cash exchange. A JP office (Japan Post) with an ATM that takes foreign cards is located about halfway down the arcade and then one and a half blocks to the left (when going from the train station). The 7/11 also takes foreign bank cards. The "River Station" 川の駅 has a great farmer's market, butcher, and local product vendor as well as a couple restaurants. See the listing under "Eat" below for more details. The best as well as cheapest alcohol selection (and dry-food store) in town is located heading out on Route 192 going west towards Route 32 (to Kochi), about 300 meters from the 7/11 (not to be confused with the other 7/11 located in the town center by the home center). It is in a yellow warehouse-looking building on the left (English sign says 'Liquor and Foods') directly across from the large 'Idemitsu' gasoline station. It could be easy to miss, but it's the first building on the left side of Route 192 after the 7/11.

A noodle restaurant is located just outside the bus station. In between the defunct shops along the shopping arcade that extends from the station are several small restaurants serving noodles, barbecue, rice dishes and other set courses. On the main road Route 192 just east of the 7/11 and across from the police station is the 川の駅 (kawa-no-eki "River Station"), located in a pink/orange building with a curved glass-windowed second floor. It houses a large local vegetable market and butcher (best local stock in town), as well as two restaurants: upstairs has breakfast buffet and a variety of lunch and dinner options; in the basement is a slightly classier meat barbecue restaurant that's great for satisfying your inner carnivore. The supermarket near the bus station sells bentos (lunch boxes).

If you find yourself stuck here for some reason, and most definitely in need of a drink, then it would probably be best to simply grab a six-pack from the supermarket or the 7/11 and just drown your sorrows on a park bench. But for a bit of social atmosphere in exchange for over-priced Asahi Super Dry, various places along the shopping arcade offer up a beer. There are also a few small bars located in the narrow blocks outside the end of the arcade just beyond the Awa Bank. Some have hostesses. The cafe/bar next to the Tobacco Museum is probably one of the only ones not exclusively filled with crusty middle-aged men. Coco Cross guesthouse also serves up drinks most evenings.

  • Oboke and Koboke - Adventure abounds with some of Japan's most awesome white water rafting.
  • Iya Valley - A wild, rugged place for great mountain hiking, traditional villages, and daring vine bridges.
  • Mima - Step back in time while walking through the old 'Udatsu' town district.
  • Tokushima - Dance your heart out at the famous Awa-Odori.
  • Kami - Let your inner otaku have fun at the Anpanman Museum
  • Kochi - Head south for beach fun, great sushi, and Japan's highest concentration of alcoholics.
  • Kotohira - Climb the 1000 steps of their impressive mountain temple.
  • Takamatsu - Go north for some unbeatable udon noodles and some of Japan's best gardens.