Banlung

Banlung (បានលុង), although a small town, is the capital of Ratanakiri Province in Eastern Cambodia.

This part of the country is heavily forested, giving way to plantation agriculture (rubber, cashews, and oil palms) and home to 12 ethnic minority groups, giving the province a sort of "edge of civilization" feel to it. The town is growing though, new roads are being built, and some things change quite quickly.

Banlung is near several spectacular natural attractions, including waterfalls, lakes, natural parks and hill tribe villages.

• Mining Tour. As evident from the number of gem dealers in town, Ratanakiri Province is a significant gem mining area. Miners work in the Bokeo mines about 36 km from the town extracting the gems which sometimes are sold in Banlung's market. For more tour information, ask your guesthouse.
• Rubber Plantations. There are a few large rubber plantations on the way to the waterfalls .
• Virachey National Park. It's chock full of jungle and mountains, and hasn't been completely explored yet. Not all areas of the park are accessible in the wet season. The Ministry of Environment (Biodiversity and Protected Areas Management Project) offers jungle treks into the park, guided by a park ranger and community guide. Their office is near Banlung centre.
• Wat Rahtanharahm. There is a large reclining Buddha with a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside past the wat and about half a kilometre up the hill .
• Waterfalls. There are several local waterfalls, and they are best seen during the rainy season when the water volume is at its highest and the vegetation is lush and green. Cha Ong is the most visited waterfall in the area, and is 18 m high. The rock area behind the waterfall has been eroded away over the centuries by the waterfall, thus allowing you to walk behind the fall. Kan Chang is another fall, which is approximately 7 m in height and empties into a large pool in which it is possible to swim. Ka Tieng is a third waterfall, 10 m tall, in the jungle which also allows swimming, and where you can swim with elephants from the Airavata Elephant foundation, trying to save the last elephants in Ratanakiri. Further out from town are Ou'Sean Lair Waterfall (about 26 km SE) with 4 tiers, Ou'Sensranoh Waterfall (about 9 km SE and 18 m high), Veal Rum Plan stone field (about 14 km N) and another crater lake (about 35 km SE). Each of these charge a 2,000 riel entry fee in addition to whatever you shell out to get there in the first place..
• Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake. A 700,000-year-old volcanic crater lake in the Yeak Laom (Yaklom) Commune Protected Area. The lake and the surrounding areas are considered sacred by the local tribal minorities, and many a legend abound about this lake. There are docks on the lake, and swimming and picnicking are options here. There is also a hiking trail which winds around the lake. Along the trail there is a visitors centre displaying some objects and folklore of the local hill tribes. 8,000 riel (USD2) (2019).

Mining Tour. As evident from the number of gem dealers in town, Ratanakiri Province is a significant gem mining area. Miners work in the Bokeo mines about 36 km from the town extracting the gems which sometimes are sold in Banlung's market. For more tour information, ask your guesthouse.

Rubber Plantations. There are a few large rubber plantations on the way to the waterfalls .

Virachey National Park. It's chock full of jungle and mountains, and hasn't been completely explored yet. Not all areas of the park are accessible in the wet season. The Ministry of Environment (Biodiversity and Protected Areas Management Project) offers jungle treks into the park, guided by a park ranger and community guide. Their office is near Banlung centre.

Wat Rahtanharahm. There is a large reclining Buddha with a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside past the wat and about half a kilometre up the hill .

Waterfalls. There are several local waterfalls, and they are best seen during the rainy season when the water volume is at its highest and the vegetation is lush and green. Cha Ong is the most visited waterfall in the area, and is 18 m high. The rock area behind the waterfall has been eroded away over the centuries by the waterfall, thus allowing you to walk behind the fall. Kan Chang is another fall, which is approximately 7 m in height and empties into a large pool in which it is possible to swim. Ka Tieng is a third waterfall, 10 m tall, in the jungle which also allows swimming, and where you can swim with elephants from the Airavata Elephant foundation, trying to save the last elephants in Ratanakiri. Further out from town are Ou'Sean Lair Waterfall (about 26 km SE) with 4 tiers, Ou'Sensranoh Waterfall (about 9 km SE and 18 m high), Veal Rum Plan stone field (about 14 km N) and another crater lake (about 35 km SE). Each of these charge a 2,000 riel entry fee in addition to whatever you shell out to get there in the first place..

Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake. A 700,000-year-old volcanic crater lake in the Yeak Laom (Yaklom) Commune Protected Area. The lake and the surrounding areas are considered sacred by the local tribal minorities, and many a legend abound about this lake. There are docks on the lake, and swimming and picnicking are options here. There is also a hiking trail which winds around the lake. Along the trail there is a visitors centre displaying some objects and folklore of the local hill tribes. 8,000 riel (USD2) (2019).

• Go on a rafting trip or jungle trek, visit a hill tribe cemetery, seven-tier waterfall and mining villages with a local guide. These can be tailored to your taste but can be expensive for only one or two people.
• Respect the locals. Ethnic minorities are animist and many taboos exist. At certain times, e.g. village sacrifice ceremonies, outsiders may not enter the village. Look out for signs, such as fresh tree leaves hanging in front of the village gate or house. Taking photos of people or places in hill tribe villages can break a taboo or disturb the spirits so get permission, and you may be fined if you don't. If you are unsure about local traditions, do not enter villages without a knowledgeable guide.

• Banks. Acleda (pronounced "A.C. leader") is the only bank in Banlung. It has an ATM that accepts Visa but not Cirrus or Mastercard. Since guesthouses in town that cash travellers' cheques charge high commissions and ATMs are unreliable, visitors are advised to carry sufficient cash both for the visit and for travel onto the next destination. The Acleda charge for overseas cards is USD2, and although many Cambodian banks in Phnom Penh don't charge, ANZ Royal charge USD4. Canadia Bank have a branch, with a 24-hr ATM that accepts many cards, on the street on the west side of the market.
• Phsar Banlung. Banlung's market is a typical Cambodian market selling the same merchandise as other markets. At early many Khmer Loeu people come to the market from their villages to sell fruits, vegetables and forest products. In addition to offering a good shopping opportunity it is a very photogenic, although permission should be sought.

Banks. Acleda (pronounced "A.C. leader") is the only bank in Banlung. It has an ATM that accepts Visa but not Cirrus or Mastercard. Since guesthouses in town that cash travellers' cheques charge high commissions and ATMs are unreliable, visitors are advised to carry sufficient cash both for the visit and for travel onto the next destination. The Acleda charge for overseas cards is USD2, and although many Cambodian banks in Phnom Penh don't charge, ANZ Royal charge USD4. Canadia Bank have a branch, with a 24-hr ATM that accepts many cards, on the street on the west side of the market.

Phsar Banlung. Banlung's market is a typical Cambodian market selling the same merchandise as other markets. At early many Khmer Loeu people come to the market from their villages to sell fruits, vegetables and forest products. In addition to offering a good shopping opportunity it is a very photogenic, although permission should be sought.

Eat responsibly in Banlung and don't encourage poaching by eating the local wildlife.

There's not much to differentiate Banlung cuisine from other Cambodian towns. All but three restaurants are owned and run by Cambodians. Aside from restaurants located in guesthouses, there are several eateries that serve Western food. All of these serve a variety of Cambodian and Western food and drinks. The staff are friendly and dishes start at around USD1.50 or 6,000 riel.

• A'Dam. Cheap, with a relaxed pub-like feel. Has a pool table, big screen television, filling meals and draught beer. Especially convivial on Friday nights when the expats gather
• Beef and Chips. Good beef and home-style chips.
• Gecko House. Gecko has moved and the style has changed. The new place is a hit with locals. Upmarket ambience. Owned by the brother of A'dam's host, there's good food at competitive prices including Thai dishes, pizza and draught beer. Popular meeting place for lunches and small group dinners. Free Wi-Fi. Choose inside with air-con or the garden. Prices are reasonable and rumour has it that they have a new chef from PP.
• Khmer restaurants. A couple of good soup restaurants: the first, Tanam, is popular for breakfasts. The second, Soup 63, has a great view. Down the second street left is another Khmer place, while further out on the left are three Khmer restaurants, Red Cow, Green House with last named in Khmer only, that have gone beyond plastic chairs and strip lights to more pleasant décor.
• Sal's, +855 12 284377. The menu has a couple of English and Mexican specialities, such as shepherd's pie and chili con carne, and pizza. The menu is sorted by waiting time, important as the slow service is infamous. No Khmers eat here twice. Impatient diners can call to order pizzas in advance.

A'Dam. Cheap, with a relaxed pub-like feel. Has a pool table, big screen television, filling meals and draught beer. Especially convivial on Friday nights when the expats gather

Beef and Chips. Good beef and home-style chips.

Gecko House. Gecko has moved and the style has changed. The new place is a hit with locals. Upmarket ambience. Owned by the brother of A'dam's host, there's good food at competitive prices including Thai dishes, pizza and draught beer. Popular meeting place for lunches and small group dinners. Free Wi-Fi. Choose inside with air-con or the garden. Prices are reasonable and rumour has it that they have a new chef from PP.

Khmer restaurants. A couple of good soup restaurants: the first, Tanam, is popular for breakfasts. The second, Soup 63, has a great view. Down the second street left is another Khmer place, while further out on the left are three Khmer restaurants, Red Cow, Green House with last named in Khmer only, that have gone beyond plastic chairs and strip lights to more pleasant décor.

Sal's, +855 12 284377. The menu has a couple of English and Mexican specialities, such as shepherd's pie and chili con carne, and pizza. The menu is sorted by waiting time, important as the slow service is infamous. No Khmers eat here twice. Impatient diners can call to order pizzas in advance.

South of the roundabout are four shops selling beer, wine and spirits, all a bit more expensive than more accessible places like Phnom Penh. The range of wines is modest.

• Banlung Reggae Bar and Restaurant, 25 St at 46 St (Close to football stadium. 06:00-23:00. Quiet atmosphere and reggae músic. Western and local. Also vegan and vegetarian (HappyCow). Popular with Westerners USD3-5 meals. Happy hour..
• Cafe Alee, +855 89 473 767. Cool place to hang out and meet people in the evenings. Open all day.

Banlung Reggae Bar and Restaurant, 25 St at 46 St (Close to football stadium. 06:00-23:00. Quiet atmosphere and reggae músic. Western and local. Also vegan and vegetarian (HappyCow). Popular with Westerners USD3-5 meals. Happy hour..

Cafe Alee, +855 89 473 767. Cool place to hang out and meet people in the evenings. Open all day.

There have been some muggings around Banlung, and some gang robberies targeting isolated farms. In February 2009, a French tourist was shot during an attempted robbery after he became lost looking for Cha Ong Waterfall outside Banlung. You should not resist if accosted.

• Kratie - A pleasant riverside town which is a nice place to break the long journey to Phnom Penh.
• Stung Treng - The town most tourists pass through on the way to Laos.

[[Kratie]] - A pleasant riverside town which is a nice place to break the long journey to Phnom Penh.

[[Stung Treng]] - The town most tourists pass through on the way to Laos.