Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap Rivers, is the capital of Cambodia and its largest city.

Despite being liberated from the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, Phnom Penh has long remained a bit rough. Things are improving, though roads remain shabby, traffic chaotic, and electricity strained.

The city is slowly gaining high rise buildings and traffic lights. The beauty that made it a "Paris of the East" before 1970 is unfortunately well hidden, though a few French colonial buildings remain. The wide boulevards and promenades envisaged by the French have become parking spaces and market stalls: pedestrians are not in favour.

The most pleasant strolling is to be done along the park-like river front, which hosts cafés and restaurants aplenty. Standard tourist sights are few, which makes the city a place to relax, watch the street life and absorb the local colour. Phnom Penh is a worthwhile destination for those who enjoy an "edgy" experience and can brave the downsides of reckless driving, noise, dust, and perennial theft.

Touts and beggars abound. A firm but polite refusal should work. Older or disabled beggars will be happy to accept 500 riel. Anyone old enough to have survived the Khmer Rouge has had a tough life. Generosity here is no bad thing. Some older people may even invoke a blessing on you for your gift. Cocky young kids demanding a dollar should not be encouraged.

The weather is hot and humid, with showers in the late afternoon in the rainy season.

In 1975 Phnom Penh was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then US-backed government and the Khmer Rouge. The city fell to the Khmer Rouge in 1975, who completely emptied it of civilians and allowed it to crumble for several years. The city's small class of skilled or educated professionals was systematically murdered by Pol Pot, or driven into exile.

Cambodia's developing economy and institutionalised corruption have concentrated wealth into a new class of nouveau riche that now frequent Phnom Penh's new fancy hotels and restaurants. Increasing tourist numbers are also bringing about improving tourist infrastructure.

All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered. Some major thoroughfares also have names. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north-south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbered streets run west-east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g., the west side of what was Boeung Kak Lake).

House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially on a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number on the same street.

France's Cambodian colony was acquired late and largely neglected. Historic colonial architecture was limited to start with and has largely decayed. The Grand Post Office Building, Central Market and Raffles Le Royal Hotel are notable exceptions. Generally any building in good condition, old or new, will be behind a big wall and security guards.

• Independence and Liberation Memorials. Impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. The area is especially popular on weekend nights with locals when multi-coloured fountains are activated and communal music is played.
• The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. 07:30-17:30. This place is not for the squeamish. A former Chinese cemetery, this is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of over 8,000 human skulls. The sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed, with ominous scraps of clothing still to be found here and there. It is a serene yet sombre place. Regularly throughout the day, a small museum screens a documentary with gruesome video images of human remains that were unearthed when the mass graves were found in 1979. Visit after learning about the Khmer Rouge terror at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. As millions were killed during the traumatic genocidal regime of Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge, as a sign of respect, wear respectable clothing such as long pants and no sleeveless shirts or tops. Flowers and incense can be bought in front of the stupa. In 2005 the memorial site was sold to a for-profit private company. A tuk-tuk to the site should cost USD9-11 return (after haggling, of course), including stopping at the Genocide Museum on the way and waiting for you at both places. USD6 which includes a very good audio tour.
• The National Museum of Cambodia, St 13, Sangkat Chey Chumneas, Khan Daun Penh (Opposite the Royal Palace, +855 23 211753, +855 12 621522 (mobile). Daily, 08:00-17:00, last admission 16:30. Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the centre. A main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in a meditative pose. Other exhibits worth seeing include graceful statues of Hindu gods, ancient stelae (tablets) inscribed in Sanskrit and old Khmer, and artefacts from a prehistoric burial site. No photos may be taken inside the museum, although photography is allowed in the central courtyard upon payment of a small fee (cameras: USD1, video cameras: USD3). In the middle of the courtyard is the original statue of the "Leper King" (actually Yama, the Hindu god of death) from the terrace of the Leper King in Angkor Archaeological Park. The pleasant little park in front of the museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or failure of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002. The gift shop has a small selection of books on Cambodian archaeology, art, culture, and history. Remember that money you spend at any Cambodian government-run institution will end up in officials' pockets. USD5.
• Olympic Stadium. Built in the 1960s for the Asian Games that never happened, this interesting complex in the Modern-style has been sold off to the Taiwanese, in a murky deal by the Cambodian government. The new owners have renovated it and it has begun to be used once again as a venue. However in the evenings a walk around the top perimeter is worthwhile: you can see hundreds attending exercise and dance classes, and get a view of the abandoned track below. There is also an Olympic-size swimming pool and diving pool with a 10 m platform open to the public opposite the main building, across the track. 6,000 riel to get in, 500 riel to check your things.
• The Royal Palace, Sothearos Blvd (one block to the west of Sisowath Quay. 08:00-10:00 & 14:00-17:00. The King of Cambodia still lives here, but much of the palace is open to the public. The manicured gardens are nearly as dazzling as the colorful glass tiles of the palace roof. The two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian design, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly well. See them early in the day before it gets too hot. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can buy sarongs and oversized T-shirts for USD2-3, or you can rent T-shirts and sarongs for a token 1000 riel at the entrance. Shorts that cover your knees are okay. In general, the palace complex has a more structured, formal, organised, and harmonious layout with a clear and specific architectural style rather than in Bangkok which has more hodgepodge of styles taken here and there. 40,000 riel.
• Sisowath Quay. Phnom Penh is a bite-sized town, and it's easy to combine sightseeing, shopping, eating and drinking into a single walk through the city. The key to connecting the dots is the town's riverside promenade, Sisowath Quay, which runs along the west bank of the Tonle Sap River. This is a 3 km strip filled with vendors, locals, tourists and expats, and lined with hotels, restaurants, bars cafes and shops. Every morning the Quay kicks off with a life affirming exercise session to some interesting music - while birds fly and turn in pattern formation overhead. It's fronted by a large, long open space with manicured lawns, palm trees and open pathways, all re-done as part of a Japanese funded project to upgrade the flood infrastructure along the river. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is popular with tourists and expats prepared to run its gauntlet of touts selling drugs, girls, and tuk-tuk rides. The river front (once seen as Phnom Penh's "safe" area) is no longer entirely safe for tourists. Tourist police are supposedly present in plainclothes. The esplanade along the river is also popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the river front park opposite the royal palace, and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. Dawn at Sisowath Quay is also a busy time, with locals doing calisthenics in front of the royal palace, and the sun rising over the river. In addition to the recent brick attacks on foreigners, there are supposedly child gangs and pickpockets so extra caution is warranted.

• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison), St 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, +855 23 300698. A school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the killing fields; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs of people dying. For an introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's Voices from S-21 . Documentary movie S-21 can be purchased in Phnom Penh for USD1.50-2. There is also a short movie screening featuring some survivors that plays at 09:30 upstairs in the far building. A hefty slice of your Tuol Sleng entrance fee will go into the pocket of the museum's director, who is the son of the responsible government minister. (This is perhaps the main reason the museum is in rather shabby condition, and the displays so unimaginative.) And a warning to those who patronize the souvenir shop. Don't get conned into buying some vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Omega watches. They are fakes and are worthless. The owner is very convincing and will tell you that it is a collection from her husband. Instead, right across from the museum (No 54 & 56, St 113, Phnom Penh is a little shop called CHA (http://www3.online.com.kh/users/wthanchashop) that sells inexpensive handmade goods that are made by women disabled from polio and land mines. If you ask, you will also be able to tour the shop, meeting the female workers and seeing where they study English. USD5 entrance USD3 for audio tour.

• Wat Botum. Historically, the wat was favoured by royalty. In the 1930s, it housed a charming young novice named Saloth Sar, who "never caused anyone any trouble, never started fights - a lovely child". Later in life, he changed his name to Pol Pot.

• Wat Phnom. This hilltop pagoda marks the spot where the city was founded, and is always busy with pilgrims and fortune-tellers. The temple is notable more for its historic importance than physical structure, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you leave unattended. Admission: USD1; elephant ride: USD15.
• Wat Ounalom. Dates back to 1422 and is one of the five original founding monasteries of Phnom Penh.
• Wat Langka. Offers free meditation session on Mondays and Thursdays at 18:00.

Independence and Liberation Memorials. Impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. The area is especially popular on weekend nights with locals when multi-coloured fountains are activated and communal music is played.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. 07:30-17:30. This place is not for the squeamish. A former Chinese cemetery, this is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of over 8,000 human skulls. The sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed, with ominous scraps of clothing still to be found here and there. It is a serene yet sombre place. Regularly throughout the day, a small museum screens a documentary with gruesome video images of human remains that were unearthed when the mass graves were found in 1979. Visit after learning about the Khmer Rouge terror at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. As millions were killed during the traumatic genocidal regime of Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge, as a sign of respect, wear respectable clothing such as long pants and no sleeveless shirts or tops. Flowers and incense can be bought in front of the stupa. In 2005 the memorial site was sold to a for-profit private company. A tuk-tuk to the site should cost USD9-11 return (after haggling, of course), including stopping at the Genocide Museum on the way and waiting for you at both places. USD6 which includes a very good audio tour.

The National Museum of Cambodia, St 13, Sangkat Chey Chumneas, Khan Daun Penh (Opposite the Royal Palace, +855 23 211753, +855 12 621522 (mobile). Daily, 08:00-17:00, last admission 16:30. Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the centre. A main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in a meditative pose. Other exhibits worth seeing include graceful statues of Hindu gods, ancient stelae (tablets) inscribed in Sanskrit and old Khmer, and artefacts from a prehistoric burial site. No photos may be taken inside the museum, although photography is allowed in the central courtyard upon payment of a small fee (cameras: USD1, video cameras: USD3). In the middle of the courtyard is the original statue of the "Leper King" (actually Yama, the Hindu god of death) from the terrace of the Leper King in [[Angkor Archaeological Park]]. The pleasant little park in front of the museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or failure of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002. The gift shop has a small selection of books on Cambodian archaeology, art, culture, and history. Remember that money you spend at any Cambodian government-run institution will end up in officials' pockets. USD5.

Olympic Stadium. Built in the 1960s for the Asian Games that never happened, this interesting complex in the Modern-style has been sold off to the Taiwanese, in a murky deal by the Cambodian government. The new owners have renovated it and it has begun to be used once again as a venue. However in the evenings a walk around the top perimeter is worthwhile: you can see hundreds attending exercise and dance classes, and get a view of the abandoned track below. There is also an Olympic-size swimming pool and diving pool with a 10 m platform open to the public opposite the main building, across the track. 6,000 riel to get in, 500 riel to check your things.

The Royal Palace, Sothearos Blvd (one block to the west of Sisowath Quay. 08:00-10:00 & 14:00-17:00. The King of Cambodia still lives here, but much of the palace is open to the public. The manicured gardens are nearly as dazzling as the colorful glass tiles of the palace roof. The two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian design, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly well. See them early in the day before it gets too hot. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can buy sarongs and oversized T-shirts for USD2-3, or you can rent T-shirts and sarongs for a token 1000 riel at the entrance. Shorts that cover your knees are okay. In general, the palace complex has a more structured, formal, organised, and harmonious layout with a clear and specific architectural style rather than in Bangkok which has more hodgepodge of styles taken here and there. 40,000 riel.

Sisowath Quay. Phnom Penh is a bite-sized town, and it's easy to combine sightseeing, shopping, eating and drinking into a single walk through the city. The key to connecting the dots is the town's riverside promenade, Sisowath Quay, which runs along the west bank of the Tonle Sap River. This is a 3 km strip filled with vendors, locals, tourists and expats, and lined with hotels, restaurants, bars cafes and shops. Every morning the Quay kicks off with a life affirming exercise session to some interesting music - while birds fly and turn in pattern formation overhead. It's fronted by a large, long open space with manicured lawns, palm trees and open pathways, all re-done as part of a Japanese funded project to upgrade the flood infrastructure along the river. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is popular with tourists and expats prepared to run its gauntlet of touts selling drugs, girls, and tuk-tuk rides. The river front (once seen as Phnom Penh's "safe" area) is no longer entirely safe for tourists. Tourist police are supposedly present in plainclothes. The esplanade along the river is also popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the river front park opposite the royal palace, and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. Dawn at Sisowath Quay is also a busy time, with locals doing calisthenics in front of the royal palace, and the sun rising over the river. In addition to the recent brick attacks on foreigners, there are supposedly child gangs and pickpockets so extra caution is warranted.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison), St 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, +855 23 300698. A school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the killing fields; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs of people dying. For an introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's Voices from S-21 . Documentary movie S-21 can be purchased in Phnom Penh for USD1.50-2. There is also a short movie screening featuring some survivors that plays at 09:30 upstairs in the far building. A hefty slice of your Tuol Sleng entrance fee will go into the pocket of the museum's director, who is the son of the responsible government minister. (This is perhaps the main reason the museum is in rather shabby condition, and the displays so unimaginative.) And a warning to those who patronize the souvenir shop. Don't get conned into buying some vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Omega watches. They are fakes and are worthless. The owner is very convincing and will tell you that it is a collection from her husband. Instead, right across from the museum (No 54 & 56, St 113, Phnom Penh is a little shop called CHA (http://www3.online.com.kh/users/wthanchashop) that sells inexpensive handmade goods that are made by women disabled from polio and land mines. If you ask, you will also be able to tour the shop, meeting the female workers and seeing where they study English. USD5 entrance USD3 for audio tour.

Wat Botum. Historically, the wat was favoured by royalty. In the 1930s, it housed a charming young novice named Saloth Sar, who "never caused anyone any trouble, never started fights - a lovely child". Later in life, he changed his name to Pol Pot.

Wat Phnom. This hilltop pagoda marks the spot where the city was founded, and is always busy with pilgrims and fortune-tellers. The temple is notable more for its historic importance than physical structure, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you leave unattended. Admission: USD1; elephant ride: USD15.

Wat Ounalom. Dates back to 1422 and is one of the five original founding monasteries of Phnom Penh.

Wat Langka. Offers free meditation session on Mondays and Thursdays at 18:00.

• Mekong Cruises. Boats leave every evening for a river cruise. Many provide snacks or dinners at sunset. Be sure to visit Mekong Island to see rural life. USD8.
• PhoceaMekong Cruises, Tourism terminal passenger, +855 12 221 348. Phoceamekong Cruises operates river cruises from Phnom Penh. The trips are "all-inclusive," but their website notes that they actually do not include "personal expenses, tips, and other services not mentioned."

Mekong Cruises. Boats leave every evening for a river cruise. Many provide snacks or dinners at sunset. Be sure to visit Mekong Island to see rural life. USD8.

PhoceaMekong Cruises, Tourism terminal passenger, +855 12 221 348. Phoceamekong Cruises operates river cruises from Phnom Penh. The trips are "all-inclusive," but their website notes that they actually do not include "personal expenses, tips, and other services not mentioned."

• Mekong Islands Bicycle Tour, 23 St 144. 08:00-12:30. Daily 20-km bicycle ride with Grasshopper Adventures, along small trails along the rivers and criss-crossing the islands (4 ferry hops) to explore the lush green countryside around Phnom Penh. USD29.
• Backstreet Academy, * 14, Street 360, Sangkat Boueng Keng Kong 1 (BKK1) (Khan Chamkarmorn (Same Building As Music Arts School), +855 077793214. 09:00-18:00. An alternative tour experiences platform, they enable locals to offer authentic and unique activities to tourists such as fishing on the mekong like a local fisherman, coconut carving workshops, Cambodian Boxing, Apsara dance classes, even a fear factor challenge where you learn to cook insects which are sold by vendors along the streets in Phnom Penh. A social enterpise, they work with many underprivileged people who either serve as hosts or facilitators. The facilitators will pick you up from your hotel and translate for you. These facilitators are usually young students looking for work to pay for their education or orphans looking to transition into society. Transport is provided for most activities in Phnom Penh. A great way to interact with local people and take in the culture and have something memorable to bring home.
• Veasna In The Kitchen, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, +855 89392921. By appointment. Offers private customised cooking classes including market tours in a large kitchen overlooking the Phnom Penh riverside. Private dining experiences also available. Website includes large library of 'how to' cooking videos on classic Cambodian dishes, these are regularly updated. USD45.

Mekong Islands Bicycle Tour, 23 St 144. 08:00-12:30. Daily 20-km bicycle ride with Grasshopper Adventures, along small trails along the rivers and criss-crossing the islands (4 ferry hops) to explore the lush green countryside around Phnom Penh. USD29.

Backstreet Academy, * 14, Street 360, Sangkat Boueng Keng Kong 1 (BKK1) (Khan Chamkarmorn (Same Building As Music Arts School), +855 077793214. 09:00-18:00. An alternative tour experiences platform, they enable locals to offer authentic and unique activities to tourists such as fishing on the mekong like a local fisherman, coconut carving workshops, Cambodian Boxing, Apsara dance classes, even a fear factor challenge where you learn to cook insects which are sold by vendors along the streets in Phnom Penh. A social enterpise, they work with many underprivileged people who either serve as hosts or facilitators. The facilitators will pick you up from your hotel and translate for you. These facilitators are usually young students looking for work to pay for their education or orphans looking to transition into society. Transport is provided for most activities in Phnom Penh. A great way to interact with local people and take in the culture and have something memorable to bring home.

Veasna In The Kitchen, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, +855 89392921. By appointment. Offers private customised cooking classes including market tours in a large kitchen overlooking the Phnom Penh riverside. Private dining experiences also available. Website includes large library of 'how to' cooking videos on classic Cambodian dishes, these are regularly updated. USD45.

• Help the Needy with Choice. A great way to help some of the local poor people in a positive and rewarding way is to help the expat-run charity called Choice. They help provide food and basic supplies to more than 200 extremely poor families, and medical assistance if needed. They also provide vocational training and feed and send many children to local schools and universities. Skilled volunteers especially teachers are welcome to help.
• Orphanage Visit. If considering visiting one of the orphanages do be aware that they may be exploitative and poorly run. Your money may go to the owner rather than the children. There are few if any legitimate orphanages in Phnom Penh: almost all are scams. Also, accepting impromptu visits from unscreened foreigners is often a sign of a substandard orphanage which does not have the children's best interests at heart. If you really want to help, try contacting organisations like this one that run educational programs, and see if there is any way you can assist.

Help the Needy with Choice. A great way to help some of the local poor people in a positive and rewarding way is to help the expat-run charity called Choice. They help provide food and basic supplies to more than 200 extremely poor families, and medical assistance if needed. They also provide vocational training and feed and send many children to local schools and universities. Skilled volunteers especially teachers are welcome to help.

Orphanage Visit. If considering visiting one of the orphanages do be aware that they may be exploitative and poorly run. Your money may go to the owner rather than the children. There are few if any legitimate orphanages in Phnom Penh: almost all are scams. Also, accepting impromptu visits from unscreened foreigners is often a sign of a substandard orphanage which does not have the children's best interests at heart. If you really want to help, try contacting organisations like this one that run educational programs, and see if there is any way you can assist.

A few years ago Phnom Penh had few modern cinemas but filling the gap were a few privately run mini cinemas. Today there are plenty of modern cinemas such as Major at location at Aeon Mall and Sorya Center Point. Legion at Exchange Square.

The remaining mini cinemas are:

• The E11even independent cinema, * 90, St 136 (near Feel Good Cafe within Happy 11 backpackers. Formerly Flicks 2, 32-seat mini cinema USD3 all day ticket.
• Institute Francais. Film screenings, with fewer English subtitles than previously.
• Meta House, 6, St 264, opposite Wat Botum. Art gallery, bar, mini-cinema and production house. Shows free, high quality foreign and Cambodian films Tu-Su nights at 19:00 in the bar-lounge on the roof.

The E11even independent cinema, * 90, St 136 (near Feel Good Cafe within Happy 11 backpackers. Formerly Flicks 2, 32-seat mini cinema USD3 all day ticket.

Institute Francais. Film screenings, with fewer English subtitles than previously.

Meta House, 6, St 264, opposite Wat Botum. Art gallery, bar, mini-cinema and production house. Shows free, high quality foreign and Cambodian films Tu-Su nights at 19:00 in the bar-lounge on the roof.

• Hash House Harriers. A running club that meets every Sunday at 14:15 at the railway station. USD5.
• NagaWorld Casino. The only casino in Phnom Penh.
• Scuba Nation Diving Centre, 18Eo, St 3 (Close to the FCC, +855 12 715785. M-F 09:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-17:00, Su 11:00-18:00. The pioneers of diving in Cambodia, providing comprehensive diving and snorkelling services, day trips, liveaboards, nitrox and a full range of PADI courses from beginner to instructor. Flexibility is the key: you can do training sessions while sightseeing in Phnom Penh, then finish with a liveaboard on the only custom made diving boat in Cambodia.
• Thunder Ranch Shooting Range. Shooting range run by a unit of the Royal Cambodian Army. For a pretty hefty fee you can fire everything from pistols to machine guns at paper targets. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious of the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields and will take a nice commission for taking you there. Pistol, USD20; AK-47, (30 rounds) USD40; rocket launcher, USD350.

Hash House Harriers. A running club that meets every Sunday at 14:15 at the railway station. USD5.

NagaWorld Casino. The only casino in Phnom Penh.

Scuba Nation Diving Centre, 18Eo, St 3 (Close to the FCC, +855 12 715785. M-F 09:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-17:00, Su 11:00-18:00. The pioneers of diving in Cambodia, providing comprehensive diving and snorkelling services, day trips, liveaboards, nitrox and a full range of PADI courses from beginner to instructor. Flexibility is the key: you can do training sessions while sightseeing in Phnom Penh, then finish with a liveaboard on the only custom made diving boat in Cambodia.

Thunder Ranch Shooting Range. Shooting range run by a unit of the Royal Cambodian Army. For a pretty hefty fee you can fire everything from pistols to machine guns at paper targets. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious of the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields and will take a nice commission for taking you there. Pistol, USD20; AK-47, (30 rounds) USD40; rocket launcher, USD350.

Popular tourist buys include silk, silverware, handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes (which are often of good quality). If you want to support businesses that are noted for supporting Cambodia's culture and heritage, look for the Heritage Friendly Business Logo from Heritage Watch, an organization that promotes the preservation of Cambodia's cultural legacy.

The Cambodian riel is not used for large purchases. Prices for anything more substantial than a plate of rice will be quoted in US dollars. The Cambodian Central Bank maintains the riel at approximately 3,900–4,100 to the dollar. Be wary if rates are outside this range. Money changers are plentiful near the central market and display their rates on boards.

Only upmarket places will accept credit cards (normally with a 3% surcharge). Changing dollars into riel is generally unnecessary, though the parsimonious will notice a small benefit. Small purchases with notes above USD20 can cause problems, though vendors will manage. Do not worry if a vendor runs off with your large note, they are finding change not robbing you. Torn, damaged, or old series US currency may not be accepted.

There are plenty of ATMs. They dispense US dollars and accept international cards. Canadia Bank and Mekong Bank ATMs were fee-free but no longer as of the end of 2014. MB Bank (St 93 cnr St 214) doesn't charge and allows up to USD1,000 withdrawal (July 2016). Maybank also doesn't charge, but it accepts only Visa cards. Otherwise typical charges are USD5 regardless of amount withdrawn, typically USD400 is the maximum. ANZ Royal Bank and Canadia Bank charge USD5 per transaction, maximum single withdrawal USD400. For safety reasons, it's a good idea to use ATMs at actual bank branches when they are open so any problems can immediately be reported and there is often a security guard on duty too. It also gives the opportunity to ask for smaller notes, such as 20s or 10s which are much easier to spend and get change back from and little risk of picking up counterfeit notes. The Mekong Bank at 220 Sisowath Quay are happy to change big notes to smaller ones or change damaged notes.

Cashing traveller's cheques can be problematic. Even major banks may refuse to exchange traveller's cheques above USD100.

• 2500 riel shops, St 51. If you like dollar, euro or pound shops then you will enjoy the Cambodian versions, which are even cheaper at 2500 riel. They are also sometimes called 1000 or 1500 riel shops. There are a few along St 310.
• $1.9 shop, St 172 (cnr Monivong. Japanese almost USD2 shop. Full of different kinds of items. Similar shops can be found Aeon Mall.
• Get a visa. Phnom Penh is a good place to get visas for neighbouring countries Vietnam and Thailand as well as for China. You can get these visas by going directly to the embassies, but that will take two visits, time filling in forms, potentially a lot of waiting and transport costs. For a few dollars extra a visa agent can be well worth it. Visas for Indonesia can only be obtained from the Indonesian Embassy.
• Worldwide Travel and visa agent, St 172 cnr St 19. Get your bus tickets and visas from this helpful and long running green coloured travel agent.

2500 riel shops, St 51. If you like dollar, euro or pound shops then you will enjoy the Cambodian versions, which are even cheaper at 2500 riel. They are also sometimes called 1000 or 1500 riel shops. There are a few along St 310.

$1.9 shop, St 172 (cnr Monivong. Japanese almost USD2 shop. Full of different kinds of items. Similar shops can be found Aeon Mall.

Get a visa. Phnom Penh is a good place to get visas for neighbouring countries Vietnam and Thailand as well as for China. You can get these visas by going directly to the embassies, but that will take two visits, time filling in forms, potentially a lot of waiting and transport costs. For a few dollars extra a visa agent can be well worth it. Visas for Indonesia can only be obtained from the Indonesian Embassy.

Worldwide Travel and visa agent, St 172 cnr St 19. Get your bus tickets and visas from this helpful and long running green coloured travel agent.

The Cambodia Antiquities Law (1996) bans the sale, purchase and export of Cambodian antiques, and since 1999 the US has banned their import. Consequently, most of the "antiques" sold in Cambodia are reproductions.

• Hidden Treasures, 9 St 148. Antiques, art, and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby SE Asian cultures.

Hidden Treasures, 9 St 148. Antiques, art, and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby SE Asian cultures.

The pirated books that children will try to sell you for USD5 need to be haggled down (they buy them for USD1). Spend a minute or so leafing through before buying. Quality varies: pages can be in the wrong order or missing, or the book may not be the one described on the cover.

• Bohr's Books, 5 Sothearos Blvd (St 3) (One block from the Royal Palace, +855 12 929148. A small store offering a large, diverse collection of books. Easy to find. A second store now operates on St 172, 400 m from Wat Unalom.
• Boston Book Company, 8 St 240, Chaktomuk Duan Penh (Around the corner from Monument Books, +855 92 214452. A second-hand bookshop. Has a good collection of fiction and non-fiction, including texts for teachers and students. In an attractive building, it will eventually have a cafe.
• D's Books, 79 St 240, and 363 Sisowath Quay (Near the Foreign Correspondents' Club. A chain of second-hand bookshops dealing mainly in mass market paperbacks. Uncommunicative, monosyllabic staff.
• International Book Center, 154 Sihanouk Blvd (St 274, between Monivong Blvd and St 63); 250 Preah Monivong Blvd (near Central Market); 43-45 Kampuchea Krom Blvd (at the corner of St 215), +855 23 218352, +855 23 222822 (Sihanouk). Large barn-like bookshops selling mostly textbooks and other educational works. Has a small classic literature collection. Also sells stationery, electronic devices, sporting goods and souvenirs.
• Monument Books, 111 Norodom Blvd (near the corner of St 240, +855 23 217617. Has the most extensive collection of new books in Phnom Penh, including fiction and non-fiction, children's books, non-English-language works (in French and Khmer, for instance), magazines and newspapers. There is a particularly good collection of books from and about Cambodia, for instance, on Angkor Wat, the Khmer Rouge regime, and the history of Cambodia. Prices can be very high, often above the list price, and can be purchased cheaper elsewhere in town. However, you can also get a good tea or coffee and cake there, if the serving staff are awake and it's a nice place to sip and read without being pestered. Monument Toys upstairs has a collection of children's toys and games. There is a branch of the bookshop at the airport.

Bohr's Books, 5 Sothearos Blvd (St 3) (One block from the Royal Palace, +855 12 929148. A small store offering a large, diverse collection of books. Easy to find. A second store now operates on St 172, 400 m from Wat Unalom.

Boston Book Company, 8 St 240, Chaktomuk Duan Penh (Around the corner from Monument Books, +855 92 214452. A second-hand bookshop. Has a good collection of fiction and non-fiction, including texts for teachers and students. In an attractive building, it will eventually have a cafe.

D's Books, 79 St 240, and 363 Sisowath Quay (Near the Foreign Correspondents' Club. A chain of second-hand bookshops dealing mainly in mass market paperbacks. Uncommunicative, monosyllabic staff.

International Book Center, 154 Sihanouk Blvd (St 274, between Monivong Blvd and St 63); 250 Preah Monivong Blvd (near Central Market); 43-45 Kampuchea Krom Blvd (at the corner of St 215), +855 23 218352, +855 23 222822 (Sihanouk). Large barn-like bookshops selling mostly textbooks and other educational works. Has a small classic literature collection. Also sells stationery, electronic devices, sporting goods and souvenirs.

Monument Books, 111 Norodom Blvd (near the corner of St 240, +855 23 217617. Has the most extensive collection of new books in Phnom Penh, including fiction and non-fiction, children's books, non-English-language works (in French and Khmer, for instance), magazines and newspapers. There is a particularly good collection of books from and about Cambodia, for instance, on Angkor Wat, the Khmer Rouge regime, and the history of Cambodia. Prices can be very high, often above the list price, and can be purchased cheaper elsewhere in town. However, you can also get a good tea or coffee and cake there, if the serving staff are awake and it's a nice place to sip and read without being pestered. Monument Toys upstairs has a collection of children's toys and games. There is a branch of the bookshop at the airport.

Throughout the city, but especially in the Russian Market, tailors make custom made clothes: A medium quality costs USD12 and a high quality costs USD15.

• Beautiful Shoes, 138 St 143, Boeung Keng Kong 3 (one street behind the Genocide Museum and about 10 min from Riverside. Good custom-made shoes. USD35–60.
• Close Out Factory Outlet, * 44A, St 289. Stock bargain priced clothes and large sizes.

Beautiful Shoes, 138 St 143, Boeung Keng Kong 3 (one street behind the Genocide Museum and about 10 min from Riverside. Good custom-made shoes. USD35–60.

Close Out Factory Outlet, * 44A, St 289. Stock bargain priced clothes and large sizes.

• Apple Computers. Cambodia is a cheap place to buy a MacBook, iPad or iPod: prices are in US dollars are similar to elsewhere, but without added tax. iPhones are available only by special import and from licensed Apple agents and so are not cheap. The best Mac retailer and repairer is Uniyoung near the Central Market.
• Huawei Phones. Cheap and decent Android phones and Bluetooth speakers.
• Samsung Phones. Cambodia is a cheap place to buy Samsung phones as there is no sales tax, but it's best to buy from one of only two authorised dealers in Phnom Penh. One near Central Market has closed and the other on Monivong Blvd. The Samsung one-year guarantees are only valid in the country of purchase.

Apple Computers. Cambodia is a cheap place to buy a MacBook, iPad or iPod: prices are in US dollars are similar to elsewhere, but without added tax. iPhones are available only by special import and from licensed Apple agents and so are not cheap. The best Mac retailer and repairer is Uniyoung near the Central Market.

Huawei Phones. Cheap and decent Android phones and Bluetooth speakers.

Samsung Phones. Cambodia is a cheap place to buy Samsung phones as there is no sales tax, but it's best to buy from one of only two authorised dealers in Phnom Penh. One near Central Market has closed and the other on Monivong Blvd. The Samsung one-year guarantees are only valid in the country of purchase.

St 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.

• Cambodian Handicraft Association, 54 & 56, St 113 (across from the Genocide Museum. Handmade silk goods, jewellery, accessories and clothing made by women disabled from polio and land mines. If you ask, you will also be able to tour the shop, meeting the female workers and seeing where they study English. The products are absolutely beautiful and the majority of the silk is sourced from a local village, where it is all hand woven. The costs of running the project are covered by selling the artists' work in the shop. They receive no grants or aid.
• Colors of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Specializes in handicrafts from around the country.
• Kravan House, 13 St 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.
• Stef's Happy Painting Gallery, Sisowath Quay (Near St 178, directly under FCC. Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions. This features some very famous "happy monk" paintings which you will see a lot around Phnom Penh.

Cambodian Handicraft Association, 54 & 56, St 113 (across from the Genocide Museum. Handmade silk goods, jewellery, accessories and clothing made by women disabled from polio and land mines. If you ask, you will also be able to tour the shop, meeting the female workers and seeing where they study English. The products are absolutely beautiful and the majority of the silk is sourced from a local village, where it is all hand woven. The costs of running the project are covered by selling the artists' work in the shop. They receive no grants or aid.

Colors of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Specializes in handicrafts from around the country.

Kravan House, 13 St 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.

Stef's Happy Painting Gallery, Sisowath Quay (Near St 178, directly under FCC. Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions. This features some very famous "happy monk" paintings which you will see a lot around Phnom Penh.

• Central Market. The "New Market" is a 1930s art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well laid out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. It has recently been beautifully renovated and its architecture alone is worth admiring.
• Night Market. F Sa Su nights. Good for cheap local food with many food stalls. Usually some live entertainment, but is primarily for the locals.
• City Mall, Monireth Blvd (Near Olympic Stadium. The mall contains a large branch of Lucky Supermarket, as well as many fast food outlets and modern shops.
• Olympic Market. Olympic Market was built in 1994 and is a local favourite with shoppers looking for wholesale fabrics, everyday wear, religious paraphernalia and traditional Khmer dresses. Buyers can look forward to big discounts in this market especially if they are buying in bulk. The market is well laid out and is one of the more modern multi-story market complexes. Buyers should definitely give this market a visit.
• Russian Market. The Russian Market moniker dates to the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s. Real designer clothes at discount prices. A lot of the factories for Levis, CK, Ralph Lauren and many other brands are in Phnom Penh; however, a lot of the clothes sold here are deemed unfit to be shipped abroad due to very small faults and, therefore are sold at this market. You can also purchase fake Swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It's away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.
• Sorya Centre Point, St 63 (between St 154 and St 142 near Central Market. Renovated, renamed and made more upmarket in 2018. It is air-conditioned and contains a range of fast food outlets including Starbucks, Cafe Amazon, Asian Kitchen, Bonchon as well as the well-stocked Lucky Supermarket and Guardian pharmacy all on the ground floor. There is a multi-screen Major cinema on the 5th floor. On the 4th floor is a food court.
• Aeon Mall. Probably Phnom Penh's most modern shopping mall (opened mid-2014) with many brand name and Japanese stores. It has many restaurants and 7 screen, including one 4DX, Major Cineplex Cinema on 2nd floor. It has a small ice rink and laser tag on the 4th floor. Access via central escalators.
• Exchange Square, St 102. New multi-purpose development partially open with upmarket shops and restaurants including a Starbucks, Hard Rock Cafe and Legend cinema on the 2nd floor, above Hard Rock Cafe.

• Aeon Supermarket, 132 street Samdach Sotheros Tonie Bassac Kan Chamkamon, +855-23-901091. 09:00-22:00. The biggest supermarket in Phnom Penh
• Thai Huot Supermarkets, 99-105 Monivong Blvd, +855-23-724623. 09:00-22:00. There are now three Thai Huot supermarkets in Phnom Penh.
• Lucky Supermarkets, 160 Sihanouk Boulevard. 09:00-22:00. Lucky Supermarkets is the biggest Nationwide retailer in Cambodia.

Aeon Supermarket, 132 street Samdach Sotheros Tonie Bassac Kan Chamkamon, +855-23-901091. 09:00-22:00. The biggest supermarket in Phnom Penh

Thai Huot Supermarkets, 99-105 Monivong Blvd, +855-23-724623. 09:00-22:00. There are now three Thai Huot supermarkets in Phnom Penh.

Lucky Supermarkets, 160 Sihanouk Boulevard. 09:00-22:00. Lucky Supermarkets is the biggest Nationwide retailer in Cambodia.

Central Market. The "New Market" is a 1930s art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well laid out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. It has recently been beautifully renovated and its architecture alone is worth admiring.

Night Market. F Sa Su nights. Good for cheap local food with many food stalls. Usually some live entertainment, but is primarily for the locals.

City Mall, Monireth Blvd (Near Olympic Stadium. The mall contains a large branch of Lucky Supermarket, as well as many fast food outlets and modern shops.

Olympic Market. Olympic Market was built in 1994 and is a local favourite with shoppers looking for wholesale fabrics, everyday wear, religious paraphernalia and traditional Khmer dresses. Buyers can look forward to big discounts in this market especially if they are buying in bulk. The market is well laid out and is one of the more modern multi-story market complexes. Buyers should definitely give this market a visit.

Russian Market. The Russian Market moniker dates to the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s. Real designer clothes at discount prices. A lot of the factories for Levis, CK, Ralph Lauren and many other brands are in Phnom Penh; however, a lot of the clothes sold here are deemed unfit to be shipped abroad due to very small faults and, therefore are sold at this market. You can also purchase fake Swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It's away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.

Sorya Centre Point, St 63 (between St 154 and St 142 near Central Market. Renovated, renamed and made more upmarket in 2018. It is air-conditioned and contains a range of fast food outlets including Starbucks, Cafe Amazon, Asian Kitchen, Bonchon as well as the well-stocked Lucky Supermarket and Guardian pharmacy all on the ground floor. There is a multi-screen Major cinema on the 5th floor. On the 4th floor is a food court.

Aeon Mall. Probably Phnom Penh's most modern shopping mall (opened mid-2014) with many brand name and Japanese stores. It has many restaurants and 7 screen, including one 4DX, Major Cineplex Cinema on 2nd floor. It has a small ice rink and laser tag on the 4th floor. Access via central escalators.

Exchange Square, St 102. New multi-purpose development partially open with upmarket shops and restaurants including a Starbucks, Hard Rock Cafe and Legend cinema on the 2nd floor, above Hard Rock Cafe.

Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats not found elsewhere in the country. These include French-influenced dining and Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian dishes. Pizzas, banana pancakes, and fried rice are always easy to find.

The river front hosts everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros. Stalls likely lack hygienic practices: eating peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked may have undesirable consequences.

Duck embryo eggs are sold at the southwest corner of Sokun Mean Bun St (St 178) and Norodum Blvd (in front of the green SSN Bldg) inside a big high school compound, together with days old hatched chicks to frogs (everything is eaten, not just the legs) dipped in batter and deep fried. Skewered and grilled pigs ears, chicken claws, and gizzards are sold in the Central Market. Pig intestines are sold at USD1 per 100 g, cut into pieces and splattered with sauce. Grilled small crabs, lobsters, prawns are also sold in the market. Chicken feet are sold in the open-air restaurants as you turn to the right at St 154 as you go northbound from Monivong Blvd. Bugs and other insects, especially the grasshopper, spider/crab, and grubs and pupae stage are sold along Sothearos Blvd from 184 St to 178 St.

• 5555, St 154, near riverside - new location. If you like oysters come to this friendly local street side eatery. Also try the sambak fish. 20 oysters for USD3.5 either on ice or BBQ and jugs of Angkor beer for 6500 riel..
• Aroma Chef. A great eating place in the middle of St 172. Khmer and International menu, nice staff and pleasant atmosphere.
• Asian Spice Cafe Pub, 79 St 111 (50 m off Sihanouk Blvd opposite Sport Shop. Cafe established in 2006 with a pub upstairs. Owned by a Singaporean, a former Intercontinental Hotel chef. Very popular with expats and tourists. Chinese, Malaysian, Singaporean, Western and some Khmer dishes. USD1.40-2.80.
• Baitong Restaurant, 7 St 360 (opposite the International School of Phnom Penh (ISPP). Authentic Khmer, Thai, and Vietnamese dishes. They also have breakfast express and lunch buffet set around USD2–3.75. 2 large rooms can be used for conferences, training and other events and a smaller room for meetings and private dinners.
• Camory Cookie Boutique, 167 Sisowath Quay (Between St 110 and 118. 09:00-20:30. A cafe-cum-development project that trains chefs and ploughs back money into humanitarian causes. The Sreh T'nout cookie, made from a rich combo of chocolate, nuts and palm sugar, is their bestseller.
• C'est Wat Restaurant and Guesthouse, 9 St 118 (2-min walk from the riverside. 10:00-15:00. Check out the massive USD7.50 Sunday roast with free glass of wine, or the huge USD4 all day breakfast: pork sausages, back bacon, mushrooms, eggs, potato fritters, beans, toast, tea or coffee. USD0.75 beer.
• Sony Side Up (formerly Chat 'n Chew), St 172, +855 12 482302. Very popular with expats who hang out here. Owner Sony and his family are very friendly and helpful.
• Comme a la Maison, 13 St 57. In a pleasant garden terrace. Laid-back but stylish French feel with warm service. Pizza and salads, ice cream desserts.
• Red Chilli, St 228 (just off St 51. Great BBQ pork ribs for just 7,000 riel a plate.
• Evergreen Vegetarian House, 109 St 130 (Between St 15 and 19. 06:30-14:00, 15:30-21:00. Small restaurant with big selection of Japanese, Thai & Cambodian vegetarian food, with and without mock meats. Delicious and inexpensive. Air-con. USD2–5.
• Feel Good Cafe. Great cafe run by a Kiwi couple serving good coffee and food. Also offers cooking classes.
• Cafe Fin, No 27Eo, St 506/135, Phsar Doeum Thkov, Chamkarmorn, +855 97 682 8166. 08:00 - 20:00. South of the Russian Market, Café Fin provides a tranquil environment where you can have breakfast, lunch or dinner and enjoy the view from the spacious and breezy roof terrace. It also serves as an ideal venue for breaks, meetings and functions. Its menu offers a range of Western food and Asian home-cooking specials, as well as a variety of creative drinks USD5-20.
• Halal Foods Mumina, 86 St (north side of the street, in front of South China Airlines office. Recommended are the Muslim restaurants on north of the Phnom Penh Hotel. Also, the guesthouses in this area are among the cheapest, offering USD4 rooms. This area is popular with the French and Brits as their embassies are located nearby.
• Kathmandu Kitchen, 13 Long Nget Street 258 (south of the Palace, in the same street as Lazy Gecko and Okay Guesthouse, on corner Sothearos BlvD, +855 235000485. Delicious Nepali and Indian food for reasonable prices in a restaurant setting with free water and condiments. USD2-5; veg. Nepali-style thali USD3.5.
• K.K. Tandoor, Sothearos Blvd (opposite Vietnamese Monument, next to Pannasastra University. Moderately priced Indian food with chicken tandoori, butter chicken, and naans. Air-con. You can get draft beer for a dollar.
• La Lotus Blanc, 402 Stung Mean Chey and 152 St 51 Boeung Keng Kang. French and Asian cuisines and quite a popular neighbourhood hub. The food is prepared and served by students from the PSE.
• NOW Snack Shop, 69H St 101, Boeng Trabek Ward, Chamkar Mon (near Rock Entertainment Centre, Royal University of Law & Economics, +855 97 9498853. 06:00-19:00. English speaking staff will serve you breakfast, lunch, dinner, Vietnamese snacks, coffee, tea, shake, juice, fruit yogurt. USD0.50-2.00.
• P&K Restaurant, 319 Sisowath Quay Blvd. Khmer & Chinese restaurant on the riverside, Good service and authentic and absolutely delicious Khmer takes on Chinese cuisine, with everything in between. The beef tripe with teouk prahok is especially delicious. Apparently open since 1984 and quite popular with locals. USD0.50 draft Angkor. USD3–12.
• Setsara Thai Restaurant, 3D St 278. Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service, though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.
• Tinat Restaurant. Extensive local food photo menu at cheap prices, such as sweet and sour chicken USD2. Free rice.
• Tom Yum Kung Thai Restaurant, 10 St 278 (In the BKK1 area. 07:00-22:00. Thatch-roofed Thai/Khmer restaurant, popular with locals and visitors alike. Big selection of authentically prepared Thai and Khmer dishes. As one might expect, the tom yum gung is recommended. Air-con upstairs, fans downstairs.
• The Vegetarian, 11 St 200 (Oknha Men). Good daily special with white or brown rice and 3 small dishes. Most of the customers are Westerners. English speaking staff. Most dishes at USD1.50.
• Warung Bali, 3D St 178 No. 25 E0, Royal Palace. Small, traditional Indonesian restaurant in a tourist area.

5555, St 154, near riverside - new location. If you like oysters come to this friendly local street side eatery. Also try the sambak fish. 20 oysters for USD3.5 either on ice or BBQ and jugs of Angkor beer for 6500 riel..

Aroma Chef. A great eating place in the middle of St 172. Khmer and International menu, nice staff and pleasant atmosphere.

Asian Spice Cafe Pub, 79 St 111 (50 m off Sihanouk Blvd opposite Sport Shop. Cafe established in 2006 with a pub upstairs. Owned by a Singaporean, a former Intercontinental Hotel chef. Very popular with expats and tourists. Chinese, Malaysian, Singaporean, Western and some Khmer dishes. USD1.40-2.80.

Baitong Restaurant, 7 St 360 (opposite the International School of Phnom Penh (ISPP). Authentic Khmer, Thai, and Vietnamese dishes. They also have breakfast express and lunch buffet set around USD2–3.75. 2 large rooms can be used for conferences, training and other events and a smaller room for meetings and private dinners.

Camory Cookie Boutique, 167 Sisowath Quay (Between St 110 and 118. 09:00-20:30. A cafe-cum-development project that trains chefs and ploughs back money into humanitarian causes. The Sreh T'nout cookie, made from a rich combo of chocolate, nuts and palm sugar, is their bestseller.

C'est Wat Restaurant and Guesthouse, 9 St 118 (2-min walk from the riverside. 10:00-15:00. Check out the massive USD7.50 Sunday roast with free glass of wine, or the huge USD4 all day breakfast: pork sausages, back bacon, mushrooms, eggs, potato fritters, beans, toast, tea or coffee. USD0.75 beer.

Sony Side Up (formerly Chat 'n Chew), St 172, +855 12 482302. Very popular with expats who hang out here. Owner Sony and his family are very friendly and helpful.

Comme a la Maison, 13 St 57. In a pleasant garden terrace. Laid-back but stylish French feel with warm service. Pizza and salads, ice cream desserts.

Red Chilli, St 228 (just off St 51. Great BBQ pork ribs for just 7,000 riel a plate.

Evergreen Vegetarian House, 109 St 130 (Between St 15 and 19. 06:30-14:00, 15:30-21:00. Small restaurant with big selection of Japanese, Thai & Cambodian vegetarian food, with and without mock meats. Delicious and inexpensive. Air-con. USD2–5.

Feel Good Cafe. Great cafe run by a Kiwi couple serving good coffee and food. Also offers cooking classes.

Cafe Fin, No 27Eo, St 506/135, Phsar Doeum Thkov, Chamkarmorn, +855 97 682 8166. 08:00 - 20:00. South of the Russian Market, Café Fin provides a tranquil environment where you can have breakfast, lunch or dinner and enjoy the view from the spacious and breezy roof terrace. It also serves as an ideal venue for breaks, meetings and functions. Its menu offers a range of Western food and Asian home-cooking specials, as well as a variety of creative drinks USD5-20.

Halal Foods Mumina, 86 St (north side of the street, in front of South China Airlines office. Recommended are the Muslim restaurants on north of the Phnom Penh Hotel. Also, the guesthouses in this area are among the cheapest, offering USD4 rooms. This area is popular with the French and Brits as their embassies are located nearby.

Kathmandu Kitchen, 13 Long Nget Street 258 (south of the Palace, in the same street as Lazy Gecko and Okay Guesthouse, on corner Sothearos BlvD, +855 235000485. Delicious Nepali and Indian food for reasonable prices in a restaurant setting with free water and condiments. USD2-5; veg. Nepali-style thali USD3.5.

K.K. Tandoor, Sothearos Blvd (opposite Vietnamese Monument, next to Pannasastra University. Moderately priced Indian food with chicken tandoori, butter chicken, and naans. Air-con. You can get draft beer for a dollar.

La Lotus Blanc, 402 Stung Mean Chey and 152 St 51 Boeung Keng Kang. French and Asian cuisines and quite a popular neighbourhood hub. The food is prepared and served by students from the PSE.

NOW Snack Shop, 69H St 101, Boeng Trabek Ward, Chamkar Mon (near Rock Entertainment Centre, Royal University of Law & Economics, +855 97 9498853. 06:00-19:00. English speaking staff will serve you breakfast, lunch, dinner, Vietnamese snacks, coffee, tea, shake, juice, fruit yogurt. USD0.50-2.00.

P&K Restaurant, 319 Sisowath Quay Blvd. Khmer & Chinese restaurant on the riverside, Good service and authentic and absolutely delicious Khmer takes on Chinese cuisine, with everything in between. The beef tripe with teouk prahok is especially delicious. Apparently open since 1984 and quite popular with locals. USD0.50 draft Angkor. USD3–12.

Setsara Thai Restaurant, 3D St 278. Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service, though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.

Tinat Restaurant. Extensive local food photo menu at cheap prices, such as sweet and sour chicken USD2. Free rice.

Tom Yum Kung Thai Restaurant, 10 St 278 (In the BKK1 area. 07:00-22:00. Thatch-roofed Thai/Khmer restaurant, popular with locals and visitors alike. Big selection of authentically prepared Thai and Khmer dishes. As one might expect, the tom yum gung is recommended. Air-con upstairs, fans downstairs.

The Vegetarian, 11 St 200 (Oknha Men). Good daily special with white or brown rice and 3 small dishes. Most of the customers are Westerners. English speaking staff. Most dishes at USD1.50.

Warung Bali, 3D St 178 No. 25 E0, Royal Palace. Small, traditional Indonesian restaurant in a tourist area.

• 50 Cents Cafe, 105 St 19 (street behind Lux Cinema, close to the corner, +855 16 386094 or +855 97 2226666. 08:00-22:00. Thai food, western food with affordable prices. Drinks such as cocktails, coffee, and soft drinks; fresh fruit salad, crepes, ice cream, quiet rest on cool sofa, artwork, and movie room. Free Wi-Fi. USD1.75-4.5.
• Amok Restaurant & Cafe, 2 St 278 (near Independence Monument, +855 12 912319. Nice cosy décor, with open air dining. Traditional Khmer dishes and other styles. The classic fish amok is well done, and the servings are large.
• Anise, 57 St (near the corner of Sihanouk and 278 St. Comfortable, nicely decorated corner restaurant with free Wi-Fi and some good dishes from a varied menu, including SE Asian. Their club sandwich is excellent. Perhaps a little over-priced.
• Atmosphere, 141C Norodom Blvd. Fancy French restaurant. Quiet on an ordinary day, but draws a regular crowd of expats.
• Aussie XL, 205A 51 (Pasteur) St. About the only thing Aussie about this place is the owner. Foster's has, in keeping with Aussie trends, been banished from the place. But the food is very good and the wood-fired oven pizza matches anything found in Italy.
• Bai Thong, 100-102 Sothearos Blvd, +855 23 211054, +855 12 666390 (mobile). 11:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00. French and Indochinese cuisine in nicely decorated surroundings. USD10-20.
• Blue Cat, St 110. Comfortable and friendly. Suitable for family dining with an international and Khmer menu, and a respectable wine list. Free Wi-Fi.
• Brown Coffee and Bakery, 17 St 214 (next to Old Pencil Supermarket, +855 23 217262. Great coffee with good barista. The bakery chef was trained at Cordon Bleu and the sandwiches are great.
• Cafe Yejj, 170 St 450 (SE corner of the Russian Market, less than 15 m E of the corner of St 155 & 450. Indoor and outdoor seating both ground level and second floor. Pasta, panini, burritos and Cambodian food. Participates in breaking the cycle of poverty by training women-at-risk as employees. Service very good. Very clean bathroom upstairs. Most dishes less than USD4. Sit inside if you do not want to be bothered by beggars.
• Chenla Floating Restaurant, 219B Sisowath Quay (opposite the Paragon Hotel. Offers dinner cruises (set menu USD8, departure nightly at 17:30).
• Chez Lipp, St 86, very near Monivong. All you can eat, cook your own with table top "steam boat" style cookers. Prawns, squid, beef, chicken etc. USD7.50 per person. Popular with locals, less known by tourists and expats. Beware the monkey near the entrance.
• Chi Cha Restaurant, 27 St 110 (near the riverfront in the café and bar area. Excellent and plentiful Indian food, vegetarian or not, in a convenient central location. Also has rooms from USD8. Set meals USD4.
• The Corn, 26 Preah Suramarit Blvd (Norodom Blvd). Mostly vegetarian Cambodian food with numerous (excellent) vegan options and a friendly English-speaking staff
• Le Duo, St 228 (between Monivong and St 63. Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pasta and pizzas.
• Friends Restaurant, * 215, St 13 (50 m north of the National Museum, +855 12 802072. M-Sa 11:00-21:00, closed Su. Run by a NGO that trains and educates former street children. Western and Asian dishes, most of them tapas, so order 2 or 3. Nice garden terrace, stylish interior. Good choice of vegetarian dishes. USD3-6.
• Frizz Restaurant, 67 St 240, +855 23 220953, +855 12 845525 (mobile). 10:00-23:00. Traditional Cambodian cuisine. The restaurant operates the Cambodia Cooking Class. USD5-10.
• Green Mango Restaurant and Bar, 170E Street 63 (corner of St 278, Boeung Keng Kang I, +855 23 720470. Western, Khmer, and Mediterranean dishes. A good place for casual meet-ups with friends. Excellent Wi-Fi connection, great choice of music and friendly staff.
• Jars of Clay, 39B St 155 (south of the Russian Market, +855 23 300281. Closed Su. Cafe managed by women. Great place to relax after a visit to the crowded Russian Market. English-style breakfast, quiches, sandwiches, soups, delicious cakes. Smoothies, ice cream and really good coffee and air-con. USD4-10.
• Java Café, 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Soups, salads and sandwiches in a cosy setting overlooking the Independence Monument. Good vegetarian options. Has a rotating art exhibition.
• Khmer Surin, 11 St 57 (South of Sihanouk Blvd. Romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.
• Meta House 3.0, * 47, St 178, +855 23 224140. Nice gallery, German pfannkuchen (flat pizzas) and interesting documentaries about Cambodia.
• Metro Café. Stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from USD1 and a great steak for about USD12. Free Wi-Fi.
• Nature and Sea, +855 12 879486. Relaxed restaurant on a 2nd floor rooftop opposite to Wat Langka that promotes health food. Delicious salads, crepes, juices. Try the passion fruit juice. USD3-7.
• Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel, +855 23 990373. Pleasant and has fun and refreshing bubble tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.
• Penny Lane Café. Italian-style cafe with air-con and outdoor areas where they take great pride in their coffee. Free Wi-Fi.
• Riverside Bistro, 273a Sisowath Quay (corner of Street 148 and Sisowath Quay, +855 12 277882. 07:30-02:00. In an old colonial style building with comfortable outdoor dining and views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists, and affluent Khmers. Try "root of lotus". Facilities include live music every day, pool table, 4 HD screens for sports, music videos (60s-70s era), Foosball table (table football), Free wifi.
• The Shop, * 39, St 240, +855 23 986964, +855 92 955963 (mobile). 07:00-19:00. Popular place with a good selection of sandwiches, quiches, salads and freshly baked goods plus nice coffee too. Has a cosy and quiet courtyard seating area. Very good breakfast options.
• Viva la Mexico restaurant, riverside. Great Mexican restaurant. Try the USD1.50 Viva frozen margaritas at Happy Hour from 11:00-23:00.
• Dine in the Dark (DiD), St 19 near St 172 (opposite LongLin GH. A great experience eating in total darkness. The service staff are all blind. The vegetarian option is not so great apparently. USD18.
• Junk Food Junction, cnr St 51 and St 310, BKK1. The BBK1 area is experiencing great growth in construction and becoming continually more an upmarket area of the city. At the junction of St 51 and St 310, each corner now has a multinational joint, KFC, Burger King, Carl's Jnr (California flame grilled burgers) and Gloria Jean's coffee.

50 Cents Cafe, 105 St 19 (street behind Lux Cinema, close to the corner, +855 16 386094 or +855 97 2226666. 08:00-22:00. Thai food, western food with affordable prices. Drinks such as cocktails, coffee, and soft drinks; fresh fruit salad, crepes, ice cream, quiet rest on cool sofa, artwork, and movie room. Free Wi-Fi. USD1.75-4.5.

Amok Restaurant & Cafe, 2 St 278 (near Independence Monument, +855 12 912319. Nice cosy décor, with open air dining. Traditional Khmer dishes and other styles. The classic fish amok is well done, and the servings are large.

Anise, 57 St (near the corner of Sihanouk and 278 St. Comfortable, nicely decorated corner restaurant with free Wi-Fi and some good dishes from a varied menu, including SE Asian. Their club sandwich is excellent. Perhaps a little over-priced.

Atmosphere, 141C Norodom Blvd. Fancy French restaurant. Quiet on an ordinary day, but draws a regular crowd of expats.

Aussie XL, 205A 51 (Pasteur) St. About the only thing Aussie about this place is the owner. Foster's has, in keeping with Aussie trends, been banished from the place. But the food is very good and the wood-fired oven pizza matches anything found in Italy.

Bai Thong, 100-102 Sothearos Blvd, +855 23 211054, +855 12 666390 (mobile). 11:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00. French and Indochinese cuisine in nicely decorated surroundings. USD10-20.

Blue Cat, St 110. Comfortable and friendly. Suitable for family dining with an international and Khmer menu, and a respectable wine list. Free Wi-Fi.

Brown Coffee and Bakery, 17 St 214 (next to Old Pencil Supermarket, +855 23 217262. Great coffee with good barista. The bakery chef was trained at Cordon Bleu and the sandwiches are great.

Cafe Yejj, 170 St 450 (SE corner of the Russian Market, less than 15 m E of the corner of St 155 & 450. Indoor and outdoor seating both ground level and second floor. Pasta, panini, burritos and Cambodian food. Participates in breaking the cycle of poverty by training women-at-risk as employees. Service very good. Very clean bathroom upstairs. Most dishes less than USD4. Sit inside if you do not want to be bothered by beggars.

Chenla Floating Restaurant, 219B Sisowath Quay (opposite the Paragon Hotel. Offers dinner cruises (set menu USD8, departure nightly at 17:30).

Chez Lipp, St 86, very near Monivong. All you can eat, cook your own with table top "steam boat" style cookers. Prawns, squid, beef, chicken etc. USD7.50 per person. Popular with locals, less known by tourists and expats. Beware the monkey near the entrance.

Chi Cha Restaurant, 27 St 110 (near the riverfront in the café and bar area. Excellent and plentiful Indian food, vegetarian or not, in a convenient central location. Also has rooms from USD8. Set meals USD4.

The Corn, 26 Preah Suramarit Blvd (Norodom Blvd). Mostly vegetarian Cambodian food with numerous (excellent) vegan options and a friendly English-speaking staff

Le Duo, St 228 (between Monivong and St 63. Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pasta and pizzas.

Friends Restaurant, * 215, St 13 (50 m north of the National Museum, +855 12 802072. M-Sa 11:00-21:00, closed Su. Run by a NGO that trains and educates former street children. Western and Asian dishes, most of them tapas, so order 2 or 3. Nice garden terrace, stylish interior. Good choice of vegetarian dishes. USD3-6.

Frizz Restaurant, 67 St 240, +855 23 220953, +855 12 845525 (mobile). 10:00-23:00. Traditional Cambodian cuisine. The restaurant operates the Cambodia Cooking Class. USD5-10.

Green Mango Restaurant and Bar, 170E Street 63 (corner of St 278, Boeung Keng Kang I, +855 23 720470. Western, Khmer, and Mediterranean dishes. A good place for casual meet-ups with friends. Excellent Wi-Fi connection, great choice of music and friendly staff.

Jars of Clay, 39B St 155 (south of the Russian Market, +855 23 300281. Closed Su. Cafe managed by women. Great place to relax after a visit to the crowded Russian Market. English-style breakfast, quiches, sandwiches, soups, delicious cakes. Smoothies, ice cream and really good coffee and air-con. USD4-10.

Java Café, 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Soups, salads and sandwiches in a cosy setting overlooking the Independence Monument. Good vegetarian options. Has a rotating art exhibition.

Khmer Surin, 11 St 57 (South of Sihanouk Blvd. Romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.

Meta House 3.0, * 47, St 178, +855 23 224140. Nice gallery, German pfannkuchen (flat pizzas) and interesting documentaries about Cambodia.

Metro Café. Stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from USD1 and a great steak for about USD12. Free Wi-Fi.

Nature and Sea, +855 12 879486. Relaxed restaurant on a 2nd floor rooftop opposite to Wat Langka that promotes health food. Delicious salads, crepes, juices. Try the passion fruit juice. USD3-7.

Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel, +855 23 990373. Pleasant and has fun and refreshing bubble tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.

Penny Lane Café. Italian-style cafe with air-con and outdoor areas where they take great pride in their coffee. Free Wi-Fi.

Riverside Bistro, 273a Sisowath Quay (corner of Street 148 and Sisowath Quay, +855 12 277882. 07:30-02:00. In an old colonial style building with comfortable outdoor dining and views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists, and affluent Khmers. Try "root of lotus". Facilities include live music every day, pool table, 4 HD screens for sports, music videos (60s-70s era), Foosball table (table football), Free wifi.

The Shop, * 39, St 240, +855 23 986964, +855 92 955963 (mobile). 07:00-19:00. Popular place with a good selection of sandwiches, quiches, salads and freshly baked goods plus nice coffee too. Has a cosy and quiet courtyard seating area. Very good breakfast options.

Viva la Mexico restaurant, riverside. Great Mexican restaurant. Try the USD1.50 Viva frozen margaritas at Happy Hour from 11:00-23:00.

Dine in the Dark (DiD), St 19 near St 172 (opposite LongLin GH. A great experience eating in total darkness. The service staff are all blind. The vegetarian option is not so great apparently. USD18.

Junk Food Junction, cnr St 51 and St 310, BKK1. The BBK1 area is experiencing great growth in construction and becoming continually more an upmarket area of the city. At the junction of St 51 and St 310, each corner now has a multinational joint, KFC, Burger King, Carl's Jnr (California flame grilled burgers) and Gloria Jean's coffee.

• 102, 1A, St 102 (One block south of Le Royal, +855 23 990880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists, but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations are recommended. USD30.
• Le Bistrot, 4D, St 29. French and Italian in an old villa.
• FCC Phnom Penh, 363 Sisowath Quay, +855 23 724014. 07:00-24:00. This Phnom Penh institution is in a renovated colonial building and its second-floor terrace offers sweeping views over the river, a Khmer-Western menu and a list of signature cocktails (USD5.50): try the Tonle Sap Breezer or the Burmese Rum Sour. The decor and feel captures the eventful past of the city. The bar is open until midnight and a very popular nightspot on weekends. While famous and definitely worth a visit, it's pricy compared to most of the competition and service and timing tend to be haphazard. No air-con and rather spoiled by the unseemly gauntlet of touts one has to battle through to leave. FCC does particularly good desserts. From USD20.
• La Luna d'Autunno, 4D, St 29. Italian food in a beautiful old villa with lovely garden setting, air-con inside.
• Le Quay, +855 23 213582. Seating by a water feature or on the terrace, enjoying Phnom Penh riverside activities. Western and Asian dishes.
• Le Wok, 33 St 178 (near the National Museum, +855 98 821857. 09:00-23:00. Delicious French and pan-Asian cuisine in a tastefully decorated venue. From USD20. Lunch special USD10.

102, 1A, St 102 (One block south of Le Royal, +855 23 990880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists, but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations are recommended. USD30.

Le Bistrot, 4D, St 29. French and Italian in an old villa.

FCC Phnom Penh, 363 Sisowath Quay, +855 23 724014. 07:00-24:00. This Phnom Penh institution is in a renovated colonial building and its second-floor terrace offers sweeping views over the river, a Khmer-Western menu and a list of signature cocktails (USD5.50): try the Tonle Sap Breezer or the Burmese Rum Sour. The decor and feel captures the eventful past of the city. The bar is open until midnight and a very popular nightspot on weekends. While famous and definitely worth a visit, it's pricy compared to most of the competition and service and timing tend to be haphazard. No air-con and rather spoiled by the unseemly gauntlet of touts one has to battle through to leave. FCC does particularly good desserts. From USD20.

La Luna d'Autunno, 4D, St 29. Italian food in a beautiful old villa with lovely garden setting, air-con inside.

Le Quay, +855 23 213582. Seating by a water feature or on the terrace, enjoying Phnom Penh riverside activities. Western and Asian dishes.

Le Wok, 33 St 178 (near the National Museum, +855 98 821857. 09:00-23:00. Delicious French and pan-Asian cuisine in a tastefully decorated venue. From USD20. Lunch special USD10.

The coffee scene has exploded in the last few years in Phnom Penh. Several global chains are here, including Costa Coffee (UK), Gloria Jean's (Australia), Brown Coffee (Cambodia), Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf (USA), Joma (Laos), Tous les Jours (Korea), Cafe Amazon (Thailand), Big Apple Donuts and coffee (Malaysia) and more recently Starbucks (USA). There are also lots of small independent coffee shops too, such as Feel Good cafe (St 136), The Shop (St 240), Connecting Hands Training Cafe (St 178), Bronos (St 57, near Starbucks), Library Cafe (St 51, near Heart of Darkness) and Boss Coffee (St 51 / St 144).

• Cousin's Burger Coffee, St 200. 11:00-21:00. French-run, French-style. Coffees as well as burger, fries and soft drinks.
• Luxuries Cafe, +855 96 777 7552. 06:00-23:00. True to its name this is a very comfortable and luxurious cafe. Has both photo drinks and food menus. Prices surprisingly not expensive.
• Bloom Cafe & Training Center, * 40, Street 222 (between St. 63 & 55). Relax and enjoy delicious coffee and cake in comfort.
• Connecting Hands Training Cafe, * 42H, street 178 (Opposite the Pagoda. M-Sa 09:00-18:00.
• Big Apple, St 302. A nice comfortable place to enjoy coffee and donuts.
• Chhma Catfe, St 178. 08:30-20:30. A cat cafe where you can enjoy a nice hot or cold drink in the company of lots of playful cats, when they are not sleeping or eating. USD1.5 donation entrance fee. Smoothies USD2.5

Cousin's Burger Coffee, St 200. 11:00-21:00. French-run, French-style. Coffees as well as burger, fries and soft drinks.

Luxuries Cafe, +855 96 777 7552. 06:00-23:00. True to its name this is a very comfortable and luxurious cafe. Has both photo drinks and food menus. Prices surprisingly not expensive.

Bloom Cafe & Training Center, * 40, Street 222 (between St. 63 & 55). Relax and enjoy delicious coffee and cake in comfort.

Connecting Hands Training Cafe, * 42H, street 178 (Opposite the Pagoda. M-Sa 09:00-18:00.

Big Apple, St 302. A nice comfortable place to enjoy coffee and donuts.

Chhma Catfe, St 178. 08:30-20:30. A cat cafe where you can enjoy a nice hot or cold drink in the company of lots of playful cats, when they are not sleeping or eating. USD1.5 donation entrance fee. Smoothies USD2.5

Places to hang out after dark include St 136 near riverside, St 104 and St 108 near the St 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses. For a more upmarket bar and restaurant scene, visit an area called BKK1 that includes St 278 and St 282, near St 51 or St 308.

• Blue Cat, St 110 (Just off the riverside. Classy bar, friendly staff, fun popular place with free pool and a night club upstairs. Cheap cocktails.
• Blue Chili, 36Eo, 178 St (behind the National Museum, +855 12 566353. One of the more popular gay bars.
• FCC and Guesthouse. Overlooking the river. Excellent place to meet professionals and tourists. Happy hour 17:00-19:00.
• Liquid, 3B St 278. Daily 08:00-late. Polished concrete, gun-metal grey floor, chocolate leather seats and fabulously backlit bar serving some of the best and most inventive cocktails in town. One of the only slate pool tables in town. As much a mid-week bar as a weekend bar.
• Rubies, St 240. Wine bar popular with young expats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.
• Show Box, * 11, St 330. A venue for the Khmer contemporary alternative music and art scenes that have begun to spark interest in modern-day Phnom Penh. Cheap beer and good food too. Katy Perry pizza Monday nights and also every other Thursday, along with a quiz that starts at 20:00.
• UpDownbar, St 136 (Across from the famous 136 Bar. Relaxed atmosphere, with a bar upstairs and on the ground floor.
• Zeppelin Cafe, St 278 (Upstairs. Listen to 1970s rock classics played by Mr Jun Rockwell, with his massive vinyl album collection. Relocated in 2016 from St 51 after 8 years. USD2 cocktails and great boiled or fried dumplings.

Blue Cat, St 110 (Just off the riverside. Classy bar, friendly staff, fun popular place with free pool and a night club upstairs. Cheap cocktails.

Blue Chili, 36Eo, 178 St (behind the National Museum, +855 12 566353. One of the more popular gay bars.

FCC and Guesthouse. Overlooking the river. Excellent place to meet professionals and tourists. Happy hour 17:00-19:00.

Liquid, 3B St 278. Daily 08:00-late. Polished concrete, gun-metal grey floor, chocolate leather seats and fabulously backlit bar serving some of the best and most inventive cocktails in town. One of the only slate pool tables in town. As much a mid-week bar as a weekend bar.

Rubies, St 240. Wine bar popular with young expats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.

Show Box, * 11, St 330. A venue for the Khmer contemporary alternative music and art scenes that have begun to spark interest in modern-day Phnom Penh. Cheap beer and good food too. Katy Perry pizza Monday nights and also every other Thursday, along with a quiz that starts at 20:00.

UpDownbar, St 136 (Across from the famous 136 Bar. Relaxed atmosphere, with a bar upstairs and on the ground floor.

Zeppelin Cafe, St 278 (Upstairs. Listen to 1970s rock classics played by Mr Jun Rockwell, with his massive vinyl album collection. Relocated in 2016 from St 51 after 8 years. USD2 cocktails and great boiled or fried dumplings.

• Eclipse Sky Bar, cnr Monivong and St 232. Tallest sky bar in Phnom Penh, is a hidden gem in the heart of the city’s business district. From the roof of the 22-story Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower, the view of the city is breath-taking, and the soft mix of pop music in the background adds to the bar’s relaxed ambiance. USD3 Tiger draught beer.
• Le Moon terrace bar, riverside (roof of Kwest. 17:00-23:00. Opened in November 2010, this is the first open terrace facing the riverside life of Phnom Penh. It's an open-air lounge bar that serves finger foods as well as drinks including cocktails, and a great location for enjoying sunset.
• Paragon Central Hotel & Sky Bar, St 144.
• Cloud9 Skybar, * 68 Street 136, Phsar Kandal 1 12204 Phnom Penh, +855 23 961 888. In the evenings at Sun & Moon Urban Hotel, guests and local residents can chill out in style at Cloud 9, the hotel’s rooftop bar, with cool beats, creative cocktails, and spectacular views over Phnom Penh city. Poolside BBQ parties and buffet dinners can also be arranged at this location.

Eclipse Sky Bar, cnr Monivong and St 232. Tallest sky bar in Phnom Penh, is a hidden gem in the heart of the city’s business district. From the roof of the 22-story Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower, the view of the city is breath-taking, and the soft mix of pop music in the background adds to the bar’s relaxed ambiance. USD3 Tiger draught beer.

Le Moon terrace bar, riverside (roof of Kwest. 17:00-23:00. Opened in November 2010, this is the first open terrace facing the riverside life of Phnom Penh. It's an open-air lounge bar that serves finger foods as well as drinks including cocktails, and a great location for enjoying sunset.

Paragon Central Hotel & Sky Bar, St 144.

Cloud9 Skybar, * 68 Street 136, Phsar Kandal 1 12204 Phnom Penh, +855 23 961 888. In the evenings at Sun & Moon Urban Hotel, guests and local residents can chill out in style at Cloud 9, the hotel’s rooftop bar, with cool beats, creative cocktails, and spectacular views over Phnom Penh city. Poolside BBQ parties and buffet dinners can also be arranged at this location.

• Bouchon, St 174 (next to Romdeng restaurant. 11:00-14:00, 16:00-00:00. French wine and cocktails bar with gourmet food. Famous for its near half price USD3 martinis on Saturday nights 21:00-00:00.

Bouchon, St 174 (next to Romdeng restaurant. 11:00-14:00, 16:00-00:00. French wine and cocktails bar with gourmet food. Famous for its near half price USD3 martinis on Saturday nights 21:00-00:00.

• Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, * 126 St 130 (about 3.5 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market). Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Upstairs on the first floor above street level. Large space, huge centre bar, outside balcony and with plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah".

Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, * 126 St 130 (about 3.5 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market). Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Upstairs on the first floor above street level. Large space, huge centre bar, outside balcony and with plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah".

• 69 Bar. Popular dance-oriented hostess bar.
• Barbados. Hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.
• Golden Vine, St 108 (next to two other bars Zapata and Enigma. Hostess bar with pool table.
• One3Six Bar, St 136. Popular hostess bar. Great range of drinks plus they keep their 42 Below and Grey Goose in the freezer, so the shots are really smooth.
• OneZeroFour Bar, St 104. Popular low-key hostess bar. The bar has a good range of single malt whiskys.
• Pit Stop, St 51. Popular hostess bar.
• Shanghai Bar & Restaurant, +855 12804836. 15:30-03:00. One of the oldest hostess bars in Phnom Penh, however is not pushy and does not have a bar fine. Downstairs bar has a great music collection from the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and 90s. 1st floor lounge disco and rooftop terrace. Prices are reasonable and also has a great value Sunday roast at USD6.
• Zanzibar, St 104. High energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, very popular among expats.
• Zapata Bar, St 108 (next to Golden Vine bar. Stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.

69 Bar. Popular dance-oriented hostess bar.

Barbados. Hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.

Golden Vine, St 108 (next to two other bars Zapata and Enigma. Hostess bar with pool table.

One3Six Bar, St 136. Popular hostess bar. Great range of drinks plus they keep their 42 Below and Grey Goose in the freezer, so the shots are really smooth.

OneZeroFour Bar, St 104. Popular low-key hostess bar. The bar has a good range of single malt whiskys.

Pit Stop, St 51. Popular hostess bar.

Shanghai Bar & Restaurant, +855 12804836. 15:30-03:00. One of the oldest hostess bars in Phnom Penh, however is not pushy and does not have a bar fine. Downstairs bar has a great music collection from the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and 90s. 1st floor lounge disco and rooftop terrace. Prices are reasonable and also has a great value Sunday roast at USD6.

Zanzibar, St 104. High energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, very popular among expats.

Zapata Bar, St 108 (next to Golden Vine bar. Stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.

As in any big city, be wary walking alone at night.

Daytime bag-snatching is not uncommon. Women are the main targets. When riding in a tuk-tuk keep your bag toward the middle of the tuk-tuk to protect against bag snatching. When on a motorcycle taxi, keep your bag between you and the driver or in front of the driver. Do not carry/wear your bag on your back!

Scammers and con men sometimes work the tourist areas such as the riverfront, Hun Sen Park and the Sorya Mall. A group of scammers operate around the riverside, targeting travellers. Their basic method is to start a conversation, make friends, claim to have a relative who is soon moving to your country of origin, and invite you to dinner at their house. Once you get there, they will apparently try to trick you into playing a rigged card game for money, and if that fails then they will give you stories about sick relatives and ask money for that instead.

Beware of fake monks. Real monks don't walk around begging from tourists. Ignore them or call the tourist police (012 942 4840) if you are harassed by fake monks.

As in most developing world countries, avoiding cold, uncooked food is desirable to prevent stomach upsets. Salads are also suspect at times. Ice is usually OK as it is made from filtered water in factories.

There are dozens of girlie bars catering to foreigners in the cross-streets back from the river. Freelance girls are picked up at establishments like Heart of Darkness, Sharky's Bar, Riverhouse Lounge, and Martini Bar.

HIV is carried by about one in eight of Cambodia's female sex workers. NGOs have got the HIV rate in the general population down from around 2% to around 1% over the past decade, but emerging liberal behaviour coupled with ignorance of safe practices may reverse this gain. Condoms are strongly advised.

Cheap SIM cards from USD2 for GSM phones are available on almost any major street. A vendor should have an activated test card to be used to make sure your phone will operate on that network. Calls between mobile networks can be spotty and Skype calls from abroad to mobiles in Cambodia are sometimes dropped, so be prepared to redial frequently. SIM cards, phone credit and internet packages can be bought and activated at the airport located just after passing through customs. A great time and place to do so if you know you going to buy a local SIM card in Cambodia. Its a good idea to have your phone sim unlocked before leaving home. It seems all phones sold in Cambodia are unlocked. Dual sim phones are cheaply available which are useful for travellers who want to use their home sim card and a local SIM card at the same time.

Mobitel (cellcard) and metfone have the best coverage around the whole of Cambodia. Metfone is particularly good for their internet packages (e.g. 4Gb for one month for USD5) and they allow hotspot tethering from you smart phone unlike Mobitel. Useful if you use a laptop a lot and want to use wifi via your hotspot enabled smart phone. Smart has probably the cheapest for local phone calls but not so great for internet. Dual sim phones are popular in Cambodia so as to take advantage of different deals available, such as Smart for calls and cellcard or metfone for internet.

Most of the major networks, such as metfone, have kiosks at the Phnom Penh airport located just after walking through customs where you can buy a local sim card, some credit and an Internet data package. If so, check that it all appears to be operating OK before heading off, such as by loading up a web page and checking your balance.

Wi-Fi is available in most of the hotels that welcome Western tourists and backpackers. Speed and reliability is on par with neighbouring countries. There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most are in the 1,500 riel/hour to 2,000 riel/hour bracket (~USD0.50)

Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets. Most up-market hotels provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium. A number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents' Club (expensive), Fresco Café (under the FCC, also expensive), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel), and Metro Cafe (free).

• Cybercity 8, 17 & 1, St 271 (in front of Sovanna Shopping Centre beside KFC Sovanna, +855 17 307066. 24/7. A modern Internet cafe with 3Mb fiber optic cables. Open 24 hours with promotional rates at night. USD0.50/hr.
• Galaxy Web. Excellent service, popular with Westerners.
• Sunny Internet, 178 St (opposite Foreign Correspondents' Club, also Sisowath Quay, next to the Riverstreet restaurant.. Provides a faster service at USD1/hr and is popular with tourists and expats.

Cybercity 8, 17 & 1, St 271 (in front of Sovanna Shopping Centre beside KFC Sovanna, +855 17 307066. 24/7. A modern Internet cafe with 3Mb fiber optic cables. Open 24 hours with promotional rates at night. USD0.50/hr.

Galaxy Web. Excellent service, popular with Westerners.

Sunny Internet, 178 St (opposite Foreign Correspondents' Club, also Sisowath Quay, next to the Riverstreet restaurant.. Provides a faster service at USD1/hr and is popular with tourists and expats.

The main, impressive French colonial-style post office is at the intersection of St 13 and 102, roughly between Wat Phnum and the Riverside. Another branch is more downtown, at the intersection of Sihanouk and Monivong Blvd. Both offices offer full range of postal services, including PO boxes for affordable prices, and are open 7 days a week.

Postage for international postcards is 3,000 riel. Very nice picture stamps are available. Philatelists: ask for mix and match options. Letters and especially parcels to Phnom Penh's post office frequently go missing, or are not made available to recipients for up to one year.

BBC World Service news is broadcast in Phnom Penh on easy to remember 100.00MHz FM.

Bring your largest pair of sunglasses: Phnom Penh is dusty year-round (even in the wet season) and riding in tuk-tuks means a lot of the dust in your eyes.

• Australia Australia, 16B National Assembly Rd, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Kahn Chamkamon, +855 23 213470. M-Th 08:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:00; F 08:00-12:00 and 13:30-16:15.
• China China, 156 Mao Tsetung Blvd, +855 23 720920, +855 12 810928 (24 hr).
• France France, 1 Monivong Blvd, +855 23 430020. M-F 08:30-11:30.
• Indonesia Indonesia, St 466, (Oknha Nhek Tioulong) corner Norodom Boulevard, +855 23 213470. M-Th 08:00-17:00.
• Philippines Philippines, House No 15, St 422, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Khan Chamkarmon, +855 23 222203, +855 23 222204.
• Russia Russia, 213 Blvd Sothearos, +855 23 210931.
• Singapore Singapore, 129 Norodom Blvd, Sangkat Chaktomuk, Khan Daun Penh, +855 23 221875. M-F 08:00-12:30, 14:00-17:00.
• Sweden Sweden, 10th floor, Phnom Penh Tower, 445, Monivong Blvd, (St. 93/332), Sangkat Boeung Pralit, Khan 7 Makara, +855 23 861 700. M-F 09:00-12:00.
• United Kingdom United Kingdom, 27-29 St 75, Sangkat Srah Chak Khan Daun, +855 23 427124.
• United States United States, 1, St 96, Sangkat Wat Phnom, Khan Daun Penh, +855 23 728000. You are lucky if you visit during December and get to view their Christmas light display!

Australia Australia, 16B National Assembly Rd, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Kahn Chamkamon, +855 23 213470. M-Th 08:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:00; F 08:00-12:00 and 13:30-16:15.

China China, 156 Mao Tsetung Blvd, +855 23 720920, +855 12 810928 (24 hr).

France France, 1 Monivong Blvd, +855 23 430020. M-F 08:30-11:30.

Indonesia Indonesia, St 466, (Oknha Nhek Tioulong) corner Norodom Boulevard, +855 23 213470. M-Th 08:00-17:00.

Philippines Philippines, House No 15, St 422, Sangkat Tonle Bassac, Khan Chamkarmon, +855 23 222203, +855 23 222204.

Russia Russia, 213 Blvd Sothearos, +855 23 210931.

Singapore Singapore, 129 Norodom Blvd, Sangkat Chaktomuk, Khan Daun Penh, +855 23 221875. M-F 08:00-12:30, 14:00-17:00.

Sweden Sweden, 10th floor, Phnom Penh Tower, 445, Monivong Blvd, (St. 93/332), Sangkat Boeung Pralit, Khan 7 Makara, +855 23 861 700. M-F 09:00-12:00.

United Kingdom United Kingdom, 27-29 St 75, Sangkat Srah Chak Khan Daun, +855 23 427124.

United States United States, 1, St 96, Sangkat Wat Phnom, Khan Daun Penh, +855 23 728000. You are lucky if you visit during December and get to view their Christmas light display!

Ascertain that the doctor has a Western medical degree. If not, get out. Local training is poor and treatment can be fatal. Local hospitals are generally basic, including Calmette Hospital, the city's best. A doctor's appointment should be made at one of the international clinics, which can also arrange transfer to a hospital in Thailand if necessary.

• Dr Marissa Regino-Manampan, 262B St 63, +855 23 217349. Filipino MD. Family medicine.
• IMI International Dental Clinic, 193 St 208, +855 23 212909. International Dental Clinic is one of the biggest high-tech dental clinics in Cambodia. Offering convenient and flexible services and total dental care since 1997. Recognised by the Ministry of Health and National Dental Council of Cambodia. Now has a second clinic, in cooperation with a Japanese dentist, in Siem Reap Province.
• International SOS Medical and Dental Clinic, 161 St 51 (Pasteur), +855 23 216911. Has local and foreign doctors providing wide ranging standard health care and 24-hr emergency service. This clinic is experienced with foreigners and with travel insurance requirements and will ensure that all documentation for insurance claims are provided.
• Naga Clinic, 11 Senei Vinna Vaut Oum (St 254), +855 23 211300, +855 11 811175 (Mobile). Some of the Khmer doctors here are foreign-trained and competent, but abrupt and uncommunicative, in the Asian doctor-style. The two French doctors are both competent and communicative, and are favoured by expats. One of them, Dr Garen, speaks good English. USD30 for foreigners, USD15 for Khmer.
• Royal Rattanak Hospital, 11 St 592, Boeung Kak 2, Toul Kok, +855 23 365555. The second Cambodian hospital of Bangkok Dusit Medical Services PCL. Provides full secondary health care services including: emergency medicine, general surgery, plastic surgery, orthopedic surgery, anesthesiology, pediatrics, Ob-Gyn, general internal medicine, intensive care and rehabilitation services. Good service and some real doctors, but insanely expensive. A keybone operation with 4 days stay costs around USD4,000. You pay around USD190/night.
• Chenda Polyclinic, 8, St 39, +855 23 555 3156. An efficient and low-cost multi-service clinic. Bookings not always necessary, a good place to head to if sick. Particularly good place if you have no insurance as its costs are low. They are good a removing moles and various other lumps for as little as USD20 each.
• Tropical & Travellers Medical Clinic: Dr. Gavin Scott, 88 St 108, +855 23 306802. British doctor. General Medicine. Tropical medicine.

Dr Marissa Regino-Manampan, 262B St 63, +855 23 217349. Filipino MD. Family medicine.

IMI International Dental Clinic, 193 St 208, +855 23 212909. International Dental Clinic is one of the biggest high-tech dental clinics in Cambodia. Offering convenient and flexible services and total dental care since 1997. Recognised by the Ministry of Health and National Dental Council of Cambodia. Now has a second clinic, in cooperation with a Japanese dentist, in Siem Reap Province.

International SOS Medical and Dental Clinic, 161 St 51 (Pasteur), +855 23 216911. Has local and foreign doctors providing wide ranging standard health care and 24-hr emergency service. This clinic is experienced with foreigners and with travel insurance requirements and will ensure that all documentation for insurance claims are provided.

Naga Clinic, 11 Senei Vinna Vaut Oum (St 254), +855 23 211300, +855 11 811175 (Mobile). Some of the Khmer doctors here are foreign-trained and competent, but abrupt and uncommunicative, in the Asian doctor-style. The two French doctors are both competent and communicative, and are favoured by expats. One of them, Dr Garen, speaks good English. USD30 for foreigners, USD15 for Khmer.

Royal Rattanak Hospital, 11 St 592, Boeung Kak 2, Toul Kok, +855 23 365555. The second Cambodian hospital of Bangkok Dusit Medical Services PCL. Provides full secondary health care services including: emergency medicine, general surgery, plastic surgery, orthopedic surgery, anesthesiology, pediatrics, Ob-Gyn, general internal medicine, intensive care and rehabilitation services. Good service and some real doctors, but insanely expensive. A keybone operation with 4 days stay costs around USD4,000. You pay around USD190/night.

Chenda Polyclinic, 8, St 39, +855 23 555 3156. An efficient and low-cost multi-service clinic. Bookings not always necessary, a good place to head to if sick. Particularly good place if you have no insurance as its costs are low. They are good a removing moles and various other lumps for as little as USD20 each.

Tropical & Travellers Medical Clinic: Dr. Gavin Scott, 88 St 108, +855 23 306802. British doctor. General Medicine. Tropical medicine.

Sihanoukville, Battambang, and Siem Reap are within a few hours reach. Watch out for guesthouses profiteering on bus tickets. Several tour companies offer day-trips to Tonle Bati, which includes Ta Prohm, an Angkor-era temple not to be mistaken for the Angkor-area temple of the same name.

Company (comments)	Departs	Hours	USD
Siem Reap	Mekong Express (air-con, snack, water, guide)	07:00 08:30 12:30 14:25	6	12
Apsara Khmer Travel (air-con, water)	07:00 09:00 13:30 15:30	5	9
Gold VIP (air-con, snack, water)	07:00 08:30 13:30 14:30 20:00 24:00	5-6	9
Selia Angkor (air-con, snack, water)	07:00 09:00 14:00 15:00	5	9
Virak Buntham	11:30 (5 hr) 18:00 20:00 24:00 (6 hr)		9
Sok Sokha (cold towel, air-con, snack, water)	07:30 08:30 12:30 13:30	6	8
Capitol (air-con)	06:15 07:30 08:30 10:15 12:00 13:30 14:30	6.5	7
Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	07:00 07:45 08:45 11:30 12:45 15:15	7	7
Sihanoukville	Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	07:00 08:00 09:00 11:30 12:45 15:45 17:00	5	7
Capitol (air-con)	07:15 08:45 09:45 11:15 12:15 13:30 14:30	5	7
G.S.T. (air-con)	07:15 08:15 12:30 13:30 13:15	5	7
Virak Buntham (blanket, water, air-con)	01:30	4	8
Kep/Kompot	Capitol (air-con)	07:30 13:00	4	7
Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	06:45 07:30 09:30 12:45 13:45	5	7
Kratie	Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	06:45 07:15 8:00 10:30	6	8
G.S.T. (air-con)	07:00	6	8
Battambang	Virak Buntham (air-con)	05:00 06:30	5	7
Capitol (air-con)	07:00-14:45 (every hr)	5	7
Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	06:30 07:45 08:45 10:45 12:45	6	7
Koh Kong	Virak Buntham (air-con)	07:45 12:30	6	9
Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	07:45 11:30	6	9
Kampong Cham	Capitol (air-con)	08:15 14:00	3	6
Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	07:15-15:45 every hr	3	6
Preah Vihear	G.S.T. (air-con)	07:30	8	7
Poi Pet	Virak Buntham (air-con)	20:00 21:00 24:00	7	10
Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	06:15 06:30 07:45 07:30	8	10
Capitol (air-con)	06:30 08:00 10:00	8	10
Stung Streng	Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	07:15	9	12
Rathanakiri	Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	07:30	13	12
Mondulkiri	Phnom Penh Sorya (air-con)	08:15	8	10

Buses to Don Det (USD19, 12 hr) leave at 06:45. The 27 hr journey to Vientiane costs USD46 and takes four different buses. The first leg is on the Don Det bus. Once over the border you'll spend hours on cramped minibuses heading to Pakse before the final stretch to the capital. The border is slow and bureaucratic, with endless form-filling and small bribes to officials, long walks hauling your luggage between windows (500 m), and no one much to assist with enquiries. There have been reports of various problems on the onward journey to Vientiane, from Lao companies not honouring tickets sold in Cambodia, to nocturnal groping.

Prices May 2012:

Bus Company (comments)	Departs	Hours	USD
4000 Islands/Don Khong (ferry not included)	Phnom Penh Sorya	06:45	10	23
Pakse	Phnom Penh Sorya	06:45	12	30
Vientiane	Phnom Penh Sorya	06:45	22.5	50

Through tickets to Bangkok (14 hr, USD15–26) are generally unproblematic. You will change buses at the border. Anything more than USD15 is a bit steep given that Phnom Penh to Siem Reap should cost USD5 and that Siem Reap to Bangkok should cost USD10.

Prices May 2012:

Bus Company (comments)	Departs	Hours	USD
Bangkok	Virak Buntham (via Koh Kong)	07:45	>12	28
Virak Buntham (via Poipet)	21:00 21:30 24:00 24:30	12	23
Gold VIP (via Poipet)	20:00 24:00 (night bus)	>12	23
Angkor Express (via Poipet)	06:30	13	18
Capitol (via Poipet)	06:30	13	18
Phnom Penh Sorya (via Poipet)	06:30	13	18
Ko Chang	Virak Buntham	07:45	9	23
Ko Samet	Virak Buntham	07:45	12	29
Pattaya	Virak Buntham	07:45	11	29
Trat	Virak Buntham	07:45	8	19

There are legends of a slow boat to Chau Doc in Vietnam (USD9–10) that you can take instead of a bus (USD10, 6 hr to either Ho Chi Minh City or Chau Doc), though it's not clear whether this is still possible. Faster boats (4-5hrs) from Phnom Penh to Chau Doc do still run once a day (see "Get In" section above). There is reportedly no longer any regular boat service from Chau Doc onward towards Ho Chi Minh City or even other parts of the Mekong Delta. The journey can be also stretched into a 2-3 day Mekong tour, usually including both boat and bus segments (possibly starting from about USD60, though most range from about USD100 up into the thousands).

Prices May 2012:

Bus Company (comments)	Departs	Hours	USD
HCMC	Mekong Express (air-con, snack, water, guide)	06:30 07:00 08:30 13:00 14:00 15:00	6	13
Sapaco Tourist (air-con, water, toilet)	06:00 07:00 08:00 09:00 11:30 13:00 14:00 15:00	6	12
Khai Nam Transport	05:30 07:00 08:00 09:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 13:00 14:00 15:00	6	11
Virak Buntham	08:30	6	11
Virak Buntham (blanket, air-con)	00:30 (night bus)	8	12
Capitol	06:45 08:00 13:30	6	11
Phnom Penh Sorya	05:45 06:45 08:30 11:45 13:30	6	15
Hatien	Champa Mekong (minibus, air-con)	08:00	5	15
Phu Quoc	Champa Mekong (minibus, air-con)	08:00	7	27