Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่) is the hub of northern Thailand. With a population of over 170,000 in the city proper (and more than one million in the metropolitan area), it is Thailand's fourth-largest city. On a plain at an elevation of 316 m, surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and quieter than the capital and has a cosmopolitan air and a significant expatriate population, all factors which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "rose of the north".

Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, until the 1920s it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, which remains intact.

Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is "new", hence Chiang Mai translates as "new city"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains.

Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away.

Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Changklan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคราะห์) is the centre of the city's (tourist) night life.

Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but kao soi, Bo Sang umbrellas and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for the locals.

Chiang Mai's most salient physical feature is the moat and the remains of the wall surrounding the old city. About 6.5 km in circumference, it is the reference point for navigating around the city.

The east and west halves of the old city each have their own character. The east side has the highest concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, motorbike rental shops, travel agencies, and other tourist-oriented services. In particular, the northeast corner is a warren of guesthouses, restaurants, massage parlours, and other businesses catering to visitors. The western half is more Thai, with a school for the blind, a coffin shop, the Chiang Mai branch of Thailand's National Library and five or six mostly table-top barbecue restaurants (หมูกระทะ mǔu grà~​tá) almost always packed with Thai customers.

Clockwise from 12 o'clock (north), the main features of the moat and its environs areː

• Chang Phuak Gate. Built by King Mangrai c.1296. Formerly known as Hua Wiang ("head of the city") Gate as it was considered the most important. King Saen Muang Ma (1365-1401) built an albino elephant (cháang-pʉ̀ʉak ช้างเผือก) monument outside the gate during his reign. The name of the gate then changed gradually to reflect its presence. Traditionally, kings-to-be entered the city through this gate on the way to their coronations. Taking the road north from here takes one to the intra-provincial bus station, also named Chang Phuak, then onward to Mae Rim, Pai, Chiang Rai and the Lao border.
• Si Phum Corner. Taking the left turn at this point takes one to the superhighway. Straight on leads to a bridge over the Ping River and beyond it, the rail and bus stations. Turning right (south) parallels the eastern boundary of the moat.
• Tha Phae Gate. Built c.1296 as Chiang Ruak Gate after a nearby village. "Tha Phae" means "raft landing". There used to be an outer Tha Phae on the river and this gate, the inner Tha Phae. When the raft landing was supplanted by a bridge, this became the Tha Phae Gate. Rebuilt 1985-1986. The vicinity is by far the area most useful to visitors as it contains the greatest number of tourist services. The Night Bazaar lies due east, about a 15-min walk. There always seems be something going on in the plaza adjacent to the gate. Every Sunday a Walking Street Market originates here.
• Katam Corner. A "katam" was a "fishtrap". Water flowing into the city from the Hua Lin corner (NW) of the city collected near this corner in a large pond full of fish. The corner took on the name of the tool used to catch the fish. Turning left here leads to the River Ping.
• Chiang Mai Gate. Built c.1296 at the founding of the city by King Mangrai. Traditionally the start of the road south to Lamphun. Reconstructed c.1800. Rebuilt 1966-1969. Nearby is the Chiang Mai (fresh) Market, selling foodstuffs. Adjacent are many food stalls, which are popular throughout the day and evening. Across the street to the south is a Walking Street Market every Saturday.
• Saen Pung Gate. First mentioned in historical records about 1545. Traditionally used to transport the dead out of the city to crematoria outside the city proper.
• Ku Huang Corner. Refers to a stupa "kuu" containing the ashes of a person named "Huang". Rebuilt c. 1800. Turning left here leads to the Airport Plaza Shopping Centre and the airport.
• Suan Dok Gate. On the sign, misspelled in English as "saun dok". Little in the vicinity of interest to visitors.
• Hua Lin Corner. "Hua" means "head" and "lin" meant "aqueduct". At this corner the small brook, Hûuai Kaeo, was lifted over the city's rampart to provide fresh water to the settlement. Turning left here leads to the Nimmanhaemin District, Chiang Mai University, and onward to Doi Suthep.

Chang Phuak Gate. Built by King Mangrai c.1296. Formerly known as Hua Wiang ("head of the city") Gate as it was considered the most important. King Saen Muang Ma (1365-1401) built an albino elephant (cháang-pʉ̀ʉak ช้างเผือก) monument outside the gate during his reign. The name of the gate then changed gradually to reflect its presence. Traditionally, kings-to-be entered the city through this gate on the way to their coronations. Taking the road north from here takes one to the intra-provincial bus station, also named Chang Phuak, then onward to Mae Rim, Pai, Chiang Rai and the Lao border.

Si Phum Corner. Taking the left turn at this point takes one to the superhighway. Straight on leads to a bridge over the Ping River and beyond it, the rail and bus stations. Turning right (south) parallels the eastern boundary of the moat.

Tha Phae Gate. Built c.1296 as Chiang Ruak Gate after a nearby village. "Tha Phae" means "raft landing". There used to be an outer Tha Phae on the river and this gate, the inner Tha Phae. When the raft landing was supplanted by a bridge, this became the Tha Phae Gate. Rebuilt 1985-1986. The vicinity is by far the area most useful to visitors as it contains the greatest number of tourist services. The Night Bazaar lies due east, about a 15-min walk. There always seems be something going on in the plaza adjacent to the gate. Every Sunday a Walking Street Market originates here.

Katam Corner. A "katam" was a "fishtrap". Water flowing into the city from the Hua Lin corner (NW) of the city collected near this corner in a large pond full of fish. The corner took on the name of the tool used to catch the fish. Turning left here leads to the River Ping.

Chiang Mai Gate. Built c.1296 at the founding of the city by King Mangrai. Traditionally the start of the road south to Lamphun. Reconstructed c.1800. Rebuilt 1966-1969. Nearby is the Chiang Mai (fresh) Market, selling foodstuffs. Adjacent are many food stalls, which are popular throughout the day and evening. Across the street to the south is a Walking Street Market every Saturday.

Saen Pung Gate. First mentioned in historical records about 1545. Traditionally used to transport the dead out of the city to crematoria outside the city proper.

Ku Huang Corner. Refers to a stupa "kuu" containing the ashes of a person named "Huang". Rebuilt c. 1800. Turning left here leads to the Airport Plaza Shopping Centre and the airport.

Suan Dok Gate. On the sign, misspelled in English as "saun dok". Little in the vicinity of interest to visitors.

Hua Lin Corner. "Hua" means "head" and "lin" meant "aqueduct". At this corner the small brook, Hûuai Kaeo, was lifted over the city's rampart to provide fresh water to the settlement. Turning left here leads to the Nimmanhaemin District, Chiang Mai University, and onward to Doi Suthep.

Chiang Mai's northern location and moderate elevation results in the city having a more temperate climate than that of the south.

As in the rest of Thailand there are three distinct seasons:

• A cool season from Nov-Feb.
• A hot season from Mar-Jun.
• A wet season from Jul-Oct.

A cool season from Nov-Feb.

A hot season from Mar-Jun.

A wet season from Jul-Oct.

• Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (About 800 m north of the Holiday Inn, east side of the Ping River. A place of history and remembrance.
• Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (At the foot of Doi Suthep, +66 53-893111. Daily, 09:00-17:30. Extremely popular with Thai tourists, and so expect long queues. A large park with over 400 species of animals. While better than some zoos, the animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. Operates a dual pricing system wherein non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges also apply for both the panda exhibition and the aquarium. Many of the animals can be fed for a charge of 10 or 20 baht. The park is pretty large and expect plenty of hills if you want to walk the complete route. It's possible to drive through with your car, but not very practical if you want to see the animals up close. If you have a rental scooter or bike, definitely bring it though. The car park facilities are best described as chaotic. 150 baht.
• Mae Sa Waterfall, +66 53-210244. 08:30-16:30. Set in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park on the Samoeng Loop. The path winds up for almost 2 km to the 8 tiers of cascades. There are many secluded areas off the trail for picnics. Crowded on weekends and holidays. Foreigners, 100 baht; Thais, 20 baht.
• Phu Ping Palace, Suthep (On Rte 1004, beyond Doi Suthep. Daily, 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman's pants to cover your lack of it. This includes ANY leg above the ankle for either gender). The palace itself (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully tended tropical flowers, centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it's closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht.
• Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden, 100 Moo 9, Mae Ram (Go 17 km N to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096 to Samoeng. Travel 12 km to garden on left, +66 53-841234. Daily 08:30-16:30. Thailand's oldest and foremost botanical garden. Dedicated to the conservation of Thai flora, it holds collections of, and carries out research on rare and endangered species. Lovely gardens in a mountain foothills setting. Run by the Botanical Garden Association of Thailand. Adult 40 baht; child 20 baht; car 100 baht.
• Nature Trail to Doi Pui peak. A loop trail (2.4 km) leads from the Doi Pui Campsite to Doi Pui peak (uphill!) and back. From the peak you can continue to a View Point (680 m). The whole trail is in the forest and you're above 1500 m, so it's much cooler than in the city during the hot season. Bring insect repellent. To get there, rent a motorbike (or find a songthaew that takes you there) and drive all the way to Phu Ping Palace, continue on the main road, turn right after about 1 km (turning left will bring you to a mountain village) and continue on a narrow windy road for almost 4 km until you reach the Pui Campsite. Alternatively, walk all the way from Phu Ping Palace, there's not much traffic. A sign marks the start of the trail.

Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (About 800 m north of the Holiday Inn, east side of the Ping River. A place of history and remembrance.

Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (At the foot of Doi Suthep, +66 53-893111. Daily, 09:00-17:30. Extremely popular with Thai tourists, and so expect long queues. A large park with over 400 species of animals. While better than some zoos, the animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. Operates a dual pricing system wherein non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges also apply for both the panda exhibition and the aquarium. Many of the animals can be fed for a charge of 10 or 20 baht. The park is pretty large and expect plenty of hills if you want to walk the complete route. It's possible to drive through with your car, but not very practical if you want to see the animals up close. If you have a rental scooter or bike, definitely bring it though. The car park facilities are best described as chaotic. 150 baht.

Mae Sa Waterfall, +66 53-210244. 08:30-16:30. Set in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park on the [[Samoeng Loop]]. The path winds up for almost 2 km to the 8 tiers of cascades. There are many secluded areas off the trail for picnics. Crowded on weekends and holidays. Foreigners, 100 baht; Thais, 20 baht.

Phu Ping Palace, Suthep (On Rte 1004, beyond Doi Suthep. Daily, 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman's pants to cover your lack of it. This includes ANY leg above the ankle for either gender). The palace itself (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully tended tropical flowers, centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it's closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht.

Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden, 100 Moo 9, Mae Ram (Go 17 km N to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096 to Samoeng. Travel 12 km to garden on left, +66 53-841234. Daily 08:30-16:30. Thailand's oldest and foremost botanical garden. Dedicated to the conservation of Thai flora, it holds collections of, and carries out research on rare and endangered species. Lovely gardens in a mountain foothills setting. Run by the Botanical Garden Association of Thailand. Adult 40 baht; child 20 baht; car 100 baht.

Nature Trail to Doi Pui peak. A loop trail (2.4 km) leads from the Doi Pui Campsite to Doi Pui peak (uphill!) and back. From the peak you can continue to a View Point (680 m). The whole trail is in the forest and you're above 1500 m, so it's much cooler than in the city during the hot season. Bring insect repellent. To get there, rent a motorbike (or find a songthaew that takes you there) and drive all the way to Phu Ping Palace, continue on the main road, turn right after about 1 km (turning left will bring you to a mountain village) and continue on a narrow windy road for almost 4 km until you reach the Pui Campsite. Alternatively, walk all the way from Phu Ping Palace, there's not much traffic. A sign marks the start of the trail.

• Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre, +66 53-217793. Tu-Su 08:30–17:00. This modern multimedia history and cultural education centre has guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing who will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. 90 baht.
• Chiang Mai National Museum, on the superhighway (Within walking distance of Wat Chet Yot, +66 53-221308. W-Su 09:00–16:00. The history of Chiang Mai. 100 baht.
• Chiang Mai Numismatic Museum, 52 Ratchadamnoen Rd, +66 53-224237. M-Sa 09:00–15:30.
• Chiang Mai University Art Museum, corner Suthep and Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-944833. Tu-Su 09:00–17:00. There are exhibitions by undergraduates from the Fine Arts Department at Chiang Mai University. These change often and the work on display is of high quality. Each month there is usually at least one art exhibition featuring the works of artists from Southeast Asia. The museum also hosts musical concerts, often free, in the adjoining theatre. Free.
• Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders, Soi 13, Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-211891. Daily 09:00–17:00. One of Asia's most unusual museums housing butterflies, beetles, etc. Also has a large selection of minerals. Some explanations in English, some in Thai. 200 baht.
• Postal Museum, Mae Ping Post Office. Tu-Sa 08:30–16:30. Free.
• The Highland People Discovery Museum. M-F 08:30-12:00 and 13:00-16:00. The museum is located on a little peninsula in a big pond. There is also an open air part to the museum at 300 m from the main building, where you find houses in the styles of the tribes.

Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre, +66 53-217793. Tu-Su 08:30–17:00. This modern multimedia history and cultural education centre has guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing who will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. 90 baht.

Chiang Mai National Museum, on the superhighway (Within walking distance of Wat Chet Yot, +66 53-221308. W-Su 09:00–16:00. The history of Chiang Mai. 100 baht.

Chiang Mai Numismatic Museum, 52 Ratchadamnoen Rd, +66 53-224237. M-Sa 09:00–15:30.

Chiang Mai University Art Museum, corner Suthep and Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-944833. Tu-Su 09:00–17:00. There are exhibitions by undergraduates from the Fine Arts Department at Chiang Mai University. These change often and the work on display is of high quality. Each month there is usually at least one art exhibition featuring the works of artists from Southeast Asia. The museum also hosts musical concerts, often free, in the adjoining theatre. Free.

Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders, Soi 13, Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-211891. Daily 09:00–17:00. One of Asia's most unusual museums housing butterflies, beetles, etc. Also has a large selection of minerals. Some explanations in English, some in Thai. 200 baht.

Postal Museum, Mae Ping Post Office. Tu-Sa 08:30–16:30. Free.

The Highland People Discovery Museum. M-F 08:30-12:00 and 13:00-16:00. The museum is located on a little peninsula in a big pond. There is also an open air part to the museum at 300 m from the main building, where you find houses in the styles of the tribes.

• Wat Chedi Luang, Prapokklao Rd (Foreigners have to use a separate entrance, 20m left of the main entrance. Almost in the centre of Chiang Mai are the remains of a massive chedi that toppled in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 on the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 m. After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991-92, when it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. A magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, restored sections hint at its former glory. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to the "Pillar of the City", a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites. Thais free; foreigners 40 Baht.
• Wat Chiang Man, Ratchaphakhinai Rd. The oldest temple in the city. Presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296), it is famed for two Buddha statues, which are about 1,800 and 1,000 years old, respectively. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Man is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago.
• Wat Phra Chao Mengrai, Ratchamanka Soi 6, Phra Sing (Near Huen Phen Restaurant, +66 53-278788. An atmospheric temple with two wihan buildings, off the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling. One of the wihan buildings houses an important Buddha image: Phra Buddha Rupa Phra Chao Mengrai.
• Wat Phra Singh. Probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of most historical interest is the Wihan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from rain, floods, and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen. Your admission ticket is in a leaflet form containing useful information and map of Wat Phra Singh complex. The temple is most attractive during Songkran, the Thai New Year, in mid-April.

Wat Chedi Luang, Prapokklao Rd (Foreigners have to use a separate entrance, 20m left of the main entrance. Almost in the centre of Chiang Mai are the remains of a massive chedi that toppled in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 on the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 m. After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991-92, when it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. A magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, restored sections hint at its former glory. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to the "Pillar of the City", a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites. Thais free; foreigners 40 Baht.

Wat Chiang Man, Ratchaphakhinai Rd. The oldest temple in the city. Presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296), it is famed for two Buddha statues, which are about 1,800 and 1,000 years old, respectively. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Man is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago.

Wat Phra Chao Mengrai, Ratchamanka Soi 6, Phra Sing (Near Huen Phen Restaurant, +66 53-278788. An atmospheric temple with two wihan buildings, off the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling. One of the wihan buildings houses an important Buddha image: Phra Buddha Rupa Phra Chao Mengrai.

Wat Phra Singh. Probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of most historical interest is the Wihan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from rain, floods, and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen. Your admission ticket is in a leaflet form containing useful information and map of Wat Phra Singh complex. The temple is most attractive during Songkran, the Thai New Year, in mid-April.

• Wat Chet Yot. The history and unusual architecture scattered under the yawning canopy of ancient trees is an pleasant antidote to the flash and bustle encountered at popular temples. Established in 1455 to host the eighth World Buddhist Council, many features of the grounds imitate significant places of the Buddha's enlightenment. Originally called Botharam Maha Vihata in honour of the venerated Bodhi tree, it came to be known as Wat Jet Yod by locals, after the seven spires (Jet Yod) protruding from the roof of the Vihara. The square-sided design of the Virhra is a replica of Mahabodhi temple in Bodh Gaya, India, though the translation has distorted proportions somewhat. Remnants of the graceful stucco relief murals that adorned the walls depict angels with a distinctly Indian flavour. The grounds also hold some more recently built, but abandoned looking, eroded chedis and buckling bases of vanished halls, overshadowed by a fully intact, though more diminutive, replica of Chedi Luang that was built around 1487 to house the ashes of King Tilokarat.
• Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. 07:00-17:00. The quintessential image of Chiang Mai with its large gilded chedi, visible from the city on a clear day. Built in 1383 during the Lanna Thai period, legend has it that the temples site was selected by an elephant sent to roam the mountain side, where upon reaching a suitable spot, it trumpeted, circled three times, knelt down and promptly died, which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. The temple offers grand views over the city, but no reward is without effort as you must accent the 200-plus steep steps of the Naga-lined stairs. The climb may be a strain in the high altitude's thin air for the less fit, so you may opt to take the cable car for 20 baht. For the Visaka Bucha holiday around May each year, it is traditional for people to walk from the zoo to the temple and vast numbers make the pilgrimage to the top, which takes around 4–5 hours.
  • In the vicinity there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting. The Bhubing Royal Palace Gardens are 4 km further along the road from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, with a reasonably easy walk along the meter-wide road shoulder. Or you can get a shared songthaew from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep for 30 baht, but you may have to wait until it fills up. Further along the road is a hill tribe village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made).
  • Getting there is a source of much consternation to many travelers. Clearly marked songthaews leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, next to the 7-Eleven. Prices are listed as 60 baht up and 60 baht down. The drivers wait until they have sufficient (Minimum of 10) passengers before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. The driver may offer to leave without the minimum number of people if the current passengers are willing to pay a bit extra. Most guidebooks advise taking a songthaew from Mani Nopharat Rd, resulting in the drivers milking the tourist cash-cow and raising their price from a reasonable 60 baht to a ludicrous 500 baht.
  • Another option is to take a songthaew from your hotel to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University for 20 baht (if you are close to the city walls), where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo, so if you just say "zoo" to the driver he will know what you're talking about. Prices range from 40 baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat to 180 baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhubing Palace Gardens, and the hill tribe village, with an hour at each location, but you may have to wait until there are sufficient people who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them, or walking some segment. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions. Also, there may be several little annoying additional costs foreigners. To enter the Doi Suthep is free for Thais, and 30 baht for foreigners. Tour operators will ask 700 baht for a tour.
  • The journey from the city can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.
• Wat Suan Dok. A large open-sided hall with a jumble of roughly hewn Buddhas with a huge dazzlingly whitewashed chedi behind.
• Wat Ton Kwen. Very nice temple with unusual architectural elements. Road 1269 is also part of the Samoeng Loop route.
• Wat Umong, Off Suthep Rd (At the end of a long narrow road, off Suthep Rd. Turn at the Italian restaurant, +66 53-277248 (call only from 08:30-16:00). 08:30-16:00. The name means "tunnel temple". An ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate. It is unusual in that it has tunnel-like chambers in the ground, some of the walls of which still have the original paintings of birds and animals visible. The large stupa is magnificent, and there is an eerie statue of a fasting, emaciated Buddha next to it. You can also take a break by the ponds, where you can feed the fish and turtles. Has a meditation centre open to foreigners. Some monks and the abbot speak a little English.
• Wiang Kum Kam, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, Saraphi district (The marker on the map shows the best entrypoint to the area on the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd. This ancient city was built in the 13th century CE by King Meng Rai to be the first capital city of Lanna. But it flooded every year so he decided to move his capital to Nopburi-Srinakornping Chiang Mai. Wiang Kum Kam was flooded and did not show up again because of the path of Ping River changed. In 1984, one of the temples was found by the Department of Fine Arts, and exploration of the other temples began. Tour around Wiang Kum Kam with a guide are available from tourist agencies for 300 baht. You can get there by carriage for 200 baht, or rent a bicycle to ride along the road and follow the signs. Notice that entering the area via the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd is very nice because of the very tall trees that line this road.

Wat Chet Yot. The history and unusual architecture scattered under the yawning canopy of ancient trees is an pleasant antidote to the flash and bustle encountered at popular temples. Established in 1455 to host the eighth World Buddhist Council, many features of the grounds imitate significant places of the Buddha's enlightenment. Originally called Botharam Maha Vihata in honour of the venerated Bodhi tree, it came to be known as Wat Jet Yod by locals, after the seven spires (Jet Yod) protruding from the roof of the Vihara. The square-sided design of the Virhra is a replica of Mahabodhi temple in [[Bodh Gaya]], India, though the translation has distorted proportions somewhat. Remnants of the graceful stucco relief murals that adorned the walls depict angels with a distinctly Indian flavour. The grounds also hold some more recently built, but abandoned looking, eroded chedis and buckling bases of vanished halls, overshadowed by a fully intact, though more diminutive, replica of Chedi Luang that was built around 1487 to house the ashes of King Tilokarat.

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. 07:00-17:00. The quintessential image of Chiang Mai with its large gilded chedi, visible from the city on a clear day. Built in 1383 during the Lanna Thai period, legend has it that the temples site was selected by an elephant sent to roam the mountain side, where upon reaching a suitable spot, it trumpeted, circled three times, knelt down and promptly died, which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. The temple offers grand views over the city, but no reward is without effort as you must accent the 200-plus steep steps of the Naga-lined stairs. The climb may be a strain in the high altitude's thin air for the less fit, so you may opt to take the cable car for 20 baht. For the Visaka Bucha holiday around May each year, it is traditional for people to walk from the zoo to the temple and vast numbers make the pilgrimage to the top, which takes around 4–5 hours.

• In the vicinity there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting. The Bhubing Royal Palace Gardens are 4 km further along the road from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, with a reasonably easy walk along the meter-wide road shoulder. Or you can get a shared songthaew from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep for 30 baht, but you may have to wait until it fills up. Further along the road is a hill tribe village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made).
• Getting there is a source of much consternation to many travelers. Clearly marked songthaews leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, next to the 7-Eleven. Prices are listed as 60 baht up and 60 baht down. The drivers wait until they have sufficient (Minimum of 10) passengers before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. The driver may offer to leave without the minimum number of people if the current passengers are willing to pay a bit extra. Most guidebooks advise taking a songthaew from Mani Nopharat Rd, resulting in the drivers milking the tourist cash-cow and raising their price from a reasonable 60 baht to a ludicrous 500 baht.
• Another option is to take a songthaew from your hotel to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University for 20 baht (if you are close to the city walls), where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo, so if you just say "zoo" to the driver he will know what you're talking about. Prices range from 40 baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat to 180 baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhubing Palace Gardens, and the hill tribe village, with an hour at each location, but you may have to wait until there are sufficient people who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them, or walking some segment. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions. Also, there may be several little annoying additional costs foreigners. To enter the Doi Suthep is free for Thais, and 30 baht for foreigners. Tour operators will ask 700 baht for a tour.
• The journey from the city can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.

Wat Suan Dok. A large open-sided hall with a jumble of roughly hewn Buddhas with a huge dazzlingly whitewashed chedi behind.

Wat Ton Kwen. Very nice temple with unusual architectural elements. Road 1269 is also part of the [[Samoeng Loop]] route.

Wat Umong, Off Suthep Rd (At the end of a long narrow road, off Suthep Rd. Turn at the Italian restaurant, +66 53-277248 (call only from 08:30-16:00). 08:30-16:00. The name means "tunnel temple". An ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate. It is unusual in that it has tunnel-like chambers in the ground, some of the walls of which still have the original paintings of birds and animals visible. The large stupa is magnificent, and there is an eerie statue of a fasting, emaciated Buddha next to it. You can also take a break by the ponds, where you can feed the fish and turtles. Has a meditation centre open to foreigners. Some monks and the abbot speak a little English.

Wiang Kum Kam, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, Saraphi district (The marker on the map shows the best entrypoint to the area on the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd. This ancient city was built in the 13th century CE by King Meng Rai to be the first capital city of Lanna. But it flooded every year so he decided to move his capital to Nopburi-Srinakornping Chiang Mai. Wiang Kum Kam was flooded and did not show up again because of the path of Ping River changed. In 1984, one of the temples was found by the Department of Fine Arts, and exploration of the other temples began. Tour around Wiang Kum Kam with a guide are available from tourist agencies for 300 baht. You can get there by carriage for 200 baht, or rent a bicycle to ride along the road and follow the signs. Notice that entering the area via the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd is very nice because of the very tall trees that line this road.

• Alliance Francaise, 138 Charoen Prathet Rd, +66 53-275277. W nights, 19:30. Screens French films, but frequently sub-titled in English. See the website for calendar of showings. The alliance also has an extensive library and exhibitions.
• Chiang Mai Vista Cinema. Ticket prices vary depending on the duration of the film. The place is not very popular among the locals since it is a bit old and worn. Most showings are in Thai, only a few a day in English. 80-120 baht.
• Major Cineplex, Airport Plaza. Ticket prices depend on the duration of the film and seat type. Honeymoon seats generally cost 40 baht more than standard seats. If you would like to avoid the crowd, avoid going on Thursday, Friday or Saturday nights. Make sure to check the language of the film prior to booking. Some children's movies are dubbed into Thai. 120-260 baht.
• SF Cinema.
• SFX Cinema.

Alliance Francaise, 138 Charoen Prathet Rd, +66 53-275277. W nights, 19:30. Screens French films, but frequently sub-titled in English. See the website for calendar of showings. The alliance also has an extensive library and exhibitions.

Chiang Mai Vista Cinema. Ticket prices vary depending on the duration of the film. The place is not very popular among the locals since it is a bit old and worn. Most showings are in Thai, only a few a day in English. 80-120 baht.

Major Cineplex, Airport Plaza. Ticket prices depend on the duration of the film and seat type. Honeymoon seats generally cost 40 baht more than standard seats. If you would like to avoid the crowd, avoid going on Thursday, Friday or Saturday nights. Make sure to check the language of the film prior to booking. Some children's movies are dubbed into Thai. 120-260 baht.

SF Cinema.

SFX Cinema.

• Bo Sang Umbrella & Sankampang Handicrafts Festival. Takes place around the third weekend of Jan at Ban Bo Sang, Sankampang. The festival is in the form of a "street fair" in which the central road of the village is used, with shops on both sides. Shops are decorated in Lanna-style, most with the well-known umbrellas, as well as with traditional lanterns. In addition there are contests, exhibitions, cultural performances, local entertainment, and assorted shows day and night. There is a grand procession decorated with umbrellas and local products, a variety of handicrafts for sale, northern-style khantoke meals and the Miss Bo Sang pageant.

• Chiang Mai Flower Festival. Staged every year during the first weekend in February. The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.
• Inthakin or Tham Boon Khan Dok. City Pillar Festival in Chiang Mai. This is a six-day festival where the city pillar spirits are propitiated to ensure the continuity of the city. Occurs in May or Jun as part of the Northern Thailand lunar calendar. Very large event focused around Wat Chedi Luang.

• Loi Krathong and Yi Peng Festivals. If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food and parties. Don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in Nov). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called khom loi. Loi Krathong coincides with the northern Thai (Lanna) festival known as "Yi Peng" (ยี่เป็ง). Due to a difference between the old Lanna calendar and the Thai calendar, Yi Peng is held on a full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calendar ("Yi" meaning "2nd" and "Peng" meaning "month" in the Lanna language). A multitude of Lanna-style sky lanterns (khom loi (โคมลอย), literally: "floating lanterns") are launched into the air where they drift with the winds. The festival is meant as a time for "tam-bun" (ทำบุญ), to make merit. People decorate their houses, gardens, and temples with khom fai (โคมไฟ): intricately shaped paper lanterns which take on different forms. Khom thue (โคมถือ) are lanterns which are carried around hanging from a stick, khom khwaen (โคมแขวน) are the hanging lanterns, and khom pariwat (โคมปริวรรต) which are placed at temples and which revolve due to the heat of the candle inside. Chiang Mai has the most elaborate Yi Peng celebrations, where both Loi Krathong and Yi Peng are celebrated at the same time resulting in lights floating on the waters, lights hanging from trees/buildings or standing on walls, and lights floating by in the sky.

• Mae Jo Lantern Release. A huge lantern release (It is often referred to as the 10,000 lantern release, but there are not as many as that) happens near Mae Jo University on the Saturday before Loi Krathong, in 2013: 16 Nov. The DMC Buddhist Sect puts this on and though it is billed as "for local people" this event has no connection with Chiang Mai or Lanna events, and is not promoted by local government officials nor included in their program. The lantern release takes place at the end of a ceremony that begins at 18:30, with the release at 20:00. The event is free of charge, but respectful attire is required and alcohol is forbidden. A tourist-targeted event (which costs about 3,000 baht) occurs in the same location on the following weekend.
• Prinses Dara Rasmi rememberance day. Yearly on 9 December. Prinses Dara Rasmi was a consort of king Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and a member of the original royal family of Chiang Mai. 9 December 1933 she died. Now there is a yearly event around her villa. The event has a fair and perfomances of traditional dances.
• Songkran Festival. The Thai Water Festival is celebrated as the Thai new year from 13-15 Apr (though it may begin a day or two early). The most obvious sign that you're in the middle of the festival is when you get soaked by someone pouring a bucket of water over you, or squirting you with a water gun. This tradition evolved from people tossing water that had been poured over holy statues, since this water was expected to be good luck. Now, it takes the form of a free-for-all water fight, and you will undoubtedly be drenched. It's also a way of staying cool during the very hot and humid month of April. Put your mobile phone in a plastic bag.

Bo Sang Umbrella & Sankampang Handicrafts Festival. Takes place around the third weekend of Jan at Ban Bo Sang, Sankampang. The festival is in the form of a "street fair" in which the central road of the village is used, with shops on both sides. Shops are decorated in Lanna-style, most with the well-known umbrellas, as well as with traditional lanterns. In addition there are contests, exhibitions, cultural performances, local entertainment, and assorted shows day and night. There is a grand procession decorated with umbrellas and local products, a variety of handicrafts for sale, northern-style khantoke meals and the Miss Bo Sang pageant.

Chiang Mai Flower Festival. Staged every year during the first weekend in February. The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.

Inthakin or Tham Boon Khan Dok. City Pillar Festival in Chiang Mai. This is a six-day festival where the city pillar spirits are propitiated to ensure the continuity of the city. Occurs in May or Jun as part of the Northern Thailand lunar calendar. Very large event focused around Wat Chedi Luang.

Loi Krathong and Yi Peng Festivals. If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food and parties. Don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in Nov). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called khom loi. Loi Krathong coincides with the northern Thai (Lanna) festival known as "Yi Peng" (ยี่เป็ง). Due to a difference between the old Lanna calendar and the Thai calendar, Yi Peng is held on a full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calendar ("Yi" meaning "2nd" and "Peng" meaning "month" in the Lanna language). A multitude of Lanna-style sky lanterns (khom loi (โคมลอย), literally: "floating lanterns") are launched into the air where they drift with the winds. The festival is meant as a time for "tam-bun" (ทำบุญ), to make merit. People decorate their houses, gardens, and temples with khom fai (โคมไฟ): intricately shaped paper lanterns which take on different forms. Khom thue (โคมถือ) are lanterns which are carried around hanging from a stick, khom khwaen (โคมแขวน) are the hanging lanterns, and khom pariwat (โคมปริวรรต) which are placed at temples and which revolve due to the heat of the candle inside. Chiang Mai has the most elaborate Yi Peng celebrations, where both Loi Krathong and Yi Peng are celebrated at the same time resulting in lights floating on the waters, lights hanging from trees/buildings or standing on walls, and lights floating by in the sky.

Mae Jo Lantern Release. A huge lantern release (It is often referred to as the 10,000 lantern release, but there are not as many as that) happens near Mae Jo University on the Saturday before Loi Krathong, in 2013: 16 Nov. The DMC Buddhist Sect puts this on and though it is billed as "for local people" this event has no connection with Chiang Mai or Lanna events, and is not promoted by local government officials nor included in their program. The lantern release takes place at the end of a ceremony that begins at 18:30, with the release at 20:00. The event is free of charge, but respectful attire is required and alcohol is forbidden. A tourist-targeted event (which costs about 3,000 baht) occurs in the same location on the following weekend.

Prinses Dara Rasmi rememberance day. Yearly on 9 December. Prinses Dara Rasmi was a consort of king Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and a member of the original royal family of Chiang Mai. 9 December 1933 she died. Now there is a yearly event around her villa. The event has a fair and perfomances of traditional dances.

Songkran Festival. The Thai Water Festival is celebrated as the Thai new year from 13-15 Apr (though it may begin a day or two early). The most obvious sign that you're in the middle of the festival is when you get soaked by someone pouring a bucket of water over you, or squirting you with a water gun. This tradition evolved from people tossing water that had been poured over holy statues, since this water was expected to be good luck. Now, it takes the form of a free-for-all water fight, and you will undoubtedly be drenched. It's also a way of staying cool during the very hot and humid month of April. Put your mobile phone in a plastic bag.

While it is probably possible to do alone, there are several companies along the main road who organize 2-3 day long hiking trips. The prices are mostly similar (except when you book at the hotel of course), just stroll along the main square road. Multiple offices often share bookings with the same companies and thus the program is usually similar too - but different packages exist, depending on price and duration. The program consists of something like minivan pick-up and drop-off, light hiking with a guide, sleeping-over in a hill village, visiting some hill tribe and elephant zoo, rafting. Some basic food should be included too (ask to be sure), and it should be possible to leave the bags at the "booking office".

• Fah Lanna Massage, 186/3 Loi Kroh Rd (Near the Night Bazaar, down the street from McDonald's, past Royal Lanna Hotel, +66 82-0303029. A small and very cosy massage shop close to the Iron Bridge. Clean, friendly and professional, Fah Lanna gets consistently high ratings in customer reviews. First, customers get a gentle foot-bath with scrub and comfortable clothes to change into and after the massage they are offered ginger tea and a cold towel. The decor and the background music are beautiful and add to the experience. After collecting 10 stamps (1 stamp per 1-hour treatment) they give a free massage. Massages are excellent, the prices seem to have increased due to its success. 600+ baht.
• Green Bamboo Massage, 1 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 1, +66 89-8275563. A small, charming studio in a typical wooden Thai house located inside the moat. The staff are trained in Thai massage therapy. Also offers individual daily or weekly courses in traditional Thai massage, Thai yoga massage, Tok Sen massage and Thai oil massage. Seminars are run by Ms Mesa, a certified and experienced masseuse. From 200 baht/hour.
• Kiyora Spa, Chang Moi Road Soi 2 (From Tha Pae Road, turn into Chang Moi Rd Soi 2., +66-52-003-268. 10:00-22:00. Kiyora is a provider of Thai-Lanna massage modalities incorporated with Western massage techniques. Price of a massage includes transport service within the city. From 800 baht.
• Le'Lux Massage. Excellent staff and ambience. Services include Thai massage (150 baht/hr), oil massage (200 baht/hr), scrubs, manicure (150 baht), pedicure (150 baht). Tea and water are included.
• Let's Relax. Does professional massage in a very clean surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A 45-minute foot reflexology session costs 350 baht, nearly twice the price of the competition, but is worth every satang after a long trek.
• Nantana Massage. Very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Air-con. Oil, foot and neck/shoulder massage available. Thai massage, 150 baht/hour.
• Sun Massage, Loi Kroh Rd, opposite 7-11. Very clean and pleasant modern decor. The masseuses are very friendly, and provide decent, skilled massages. There is a table in front of the shop where the masseuses often hang out when idle. Traditional Thai massage, 199 baht/hour..
• Thai Massage Conservation Club, 99 Ratchamanka Rd, +66 53-904452, +66 89-7552155. Daily 08:00 - 21:00. Massage is performed by blind masseurs, who speak (some) English. They offer traditional Thai as well as oil massage. Oil massage 300 baht/hour.
• Viang Ping Massage and Spa, 2/4 Tha Phae Rd, Soi 2 (Opposite Wat Bupparam, +66 53-874071. Very clean and well-run business, professionally run by Fern, manager-proprietor. All massages based on the Lanna, northern Thai-style, using pressure points and energy lines. Homemade coconut oil and natural facial, body scrub, and wrap products. Fern also teaches massage and spa services to individuals or occasionally to small groups. Loyalty cards for regular customers, free massage after 10 visits. Thai and oil massage courses, also spa courses. Prices average 200 baht for Thai, foot, or head and shoulder massages. 250 baht for oil massages..
• Wat Sam Pao. Just inside the south gate to the compound on your left. 1 hr: Thai massage, 130 baht; foot massage, 130 baht; oil massage, 300 baht.
• Blue Garden Chiang Mai, Ratchamanaka road Soi 4, +66 851062895. Blue Garden offers Chi Nei Tsang treatments and training and advanced Thai Yoga Massage treatments and training. Like dynamic Thai Massage, advanced stretching and neck therapy

Fah Lanna Massage, 186/3 Loi Kroh Rd (Near the Night Bazaar, down the street from McDonald's, past Royal Lanna Hotel, +66 82-0303029. A small and very cosy massage shop close to the Iron Bridge. Clean, friendly and professional, Fah Lanna gets consistently high ratings in customer reviews. First, customers get a gentle foot-bath with scrub and comfortable clothes to change into and after the massage they are offered ginger tea and a cold towel. The decor and the background music are beautiful and add to the experience. After collecting 10 stamps (1 stamp per 1-hour treatment) they give a free massage. Massages are excellent, the prices seem to have increased due to its success. 600+ baht.

Green Bamboo Massage, 1 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 1, +66 89-8275563. A small, charming studio in a typical wooden Thai house located inside the moat. The staff are trained in Thai massage therapy. Also offers individual daily or weekly courses in traditional Thai massage, Thai yoga massage, Tok Sen massage and Thai oil massage. Seminars are run by Ms Mesa, a certified and experienced masseuse. From 200 baht/hour.

Kiyora Spa, Chang Moi Road Soi 2 (From Tha Pae Road, turn into Chang Moi Rd Soi 2., +66-52-003-268. 10:00-22:00. Kiyora is a provider of Thai-Lanna massage modalities incorporated with Western massage techniques. Price of a massage includes transport service within the city. From 800 baht.

Le'Lux Massage. Excellent staff and ambience. Services include Thai massage (150 baht/hr), oil massage (200 baht/hr), scrubs, manicure (150 baht), pedicure (150 baht). Tea and water are included.

Let's Relax. Does professional massage in a very clean surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A 45-minute foot reflexology session costs 350 baht, nearly twice the price of the competition, but is worth every satang after a long trek.

Nantana Massage. Very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Air-con. Oil, foot and neck/shoulder massage available. Thai massage, 150 baht/hour.

Sun Massage, Loi Kroh Rd, opposite 7-11. Very clean and pleasant modern decor. The masseuses are very friendly, and provide decent, skilled massages. There is a table in front of the shop where the masseuses often hang out when idle. Traditional Thai massage, 199 baht/hour..

Thai Massage Conservation Club, 99 Ratchamanka Rd, +66 53-904452, +66 89-7552155. Daily 08:00 - 21:00. Massage is performed by blind masseurs, who speak (some) English. They offer traditional Thai as well as oil massage. Oil massage 300 baht/hour.

Viang Ping Massage and Spa, 2/4 Tha Phae Rd, Soi 2 (Opposite Wat Bupparam, +66 53-874071. Very clean and well-run business, professionally run by Fern, manager-proprietor. All massages based on the Lanna, northern Thai-style, using pressure points and energy lines. Homemade coconut oil and natural facial, body scrub, and wrap products. Fern also teaches massage and spa services to individuals or occasionally to small groups. Loyalty cards for regular customers, free massage after 10 visits. Thai and oil massage courses, also spa courses. Prices average 200 baht for Thai, foot, or head and shoulder massages. 250 baht for oil massages..

Wat Sam Pao. Just inside the south gate to the compound on your left. 1 hr: Thai massage, 130 baht; foot massage, 130 baht; oil massage, 300 baht.

Blue Garden Chiang Mai, Ratchamanaka road Soi 4, +66 851062895. Blue Garden offers Chi Nei Tsang treatments and training and advanced Thai Yoga Massage treatments and training. Like dynamic Thai Massage, advanced stretching and neck therapy

• Motorcycle touring is a great way to explore northern Thailand. One good day trip out of Chiang Mai is up and over Doi Suthep, which will take you up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and beyond the mountain to the reservoir. A perennial favourite among bicyclists and motorcyclists is the Samoeng Loop, a 100 km circuit into the mountains and back to Chiang Mai.
• Motor-scooter touring as far as Mae Hong Son and suitable for the less experienced motorcyclist.

Motorcycle touring is a great way to explore northern Thailand. One good day trip out of Chiang Mai is up and over Doi Suthep, which will take you up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and beyond the mountain to the reservoir. A perennial favourite among bicyclists and motorcyclists is the [[Samoeng Loop]], a 100 km circuit into the mountains and back to Chiang Mai.

Motor-scooter touring as far as Mae Hong Son and suitable for the less experienced motorcyclist.

After football, Thai boxing is the national sport of Thailand. It can be seen in three different "stadia", in reality more like boxing rings in warehouses.

• Kalare Boxing Stadium. Real muay Thai fights (almost) every Monday and Friday at 20:30 with 10 bouts ranging from young novices to local champions to locals v. foreigners. Spoiler alert: The locals usually win. The smallest of the three stadia it is nearly open-air, but with a new tent covering and good lighting. This is much more authentic than the frenzied beer bar atmosphere of the other two locations. 400-600 baht.
• Loi Kroh Boxing Stadium. Fights are usually held 3-4 nights per week. Look for flyers posted up all over the old city. They usually have about 8 fights and feature Thai fighters as well as a few matches with foreign fighters. This is not the best location to see muay Thai with a family, as it is surrounded by girlie bars and during a break between the fights a group of ladyboys sometimes will dance and occasionally strip. After about 23:00 the complex is opened up for free, letting all the vendors (flower sellers and others) in. If you are on a tight budget you may be able to see a few of the remaining fights for free this way. 400 baht for normal seating or 600 baht for VIP.
• Tha Phae Boxing Stadium. It hosts around 8 fights per show, including a few matches with foreign fighters. This is the largest of the three stadiums and has food as well as beverages served. Gambling is prominently featured.

Kalare Boxing Stadium. Real muay Thai fights (almost) every Monday and Friday at 20:30 with 10 bouts ranging from young novices to local champions to locals v. foreigners. Spoiler alert: The locals usually win. The smallest of the three stadia it is nearly open-air, but with a new tent covering and good lighting. This is much more authentic than the frenzied beer bar atmosphere of the other two locations. 400-600 baht.

Loi Kroh Boxing Stadium. Fights are usually held 3-4 nights per week. Look for flyers posted up all over the old city. They usually have about 8 fights and feature Thai fighters as well as a few matches with foreign fighters. This is not the best location to see muay Thai with a family, as it is surrounded by girlie bars and during a break between the fights a group of ladyboys sometimes will dance and occasionally strip. After about 23:00 the complex is opened up for free, letting all the vendors (flower sellers and others) in. If you are on a tight budget you may be able to see a few of the remaining fights for free this way. 400 baht for normal seating or 600 baht for VIP.

Tha Phae Boxing Stadium. It hosts around 8 fights per show, including a few matches with foreign fighters. This is the largest of the three stadiums and has food as well as beverages served. Gambling is prominently featured.

Raft trips down the Mae Tang River are offered by several companies and can often be combined with elephant riding or mountain biking. During the dry season (Jan-Feb) water levels are relatively low with only grade 2-3 rapids, but during the rainy season (Jun-Oct) higher water levels make for a more exciting grade 4-5 trip.

• 8Adventures, 21/22 Moo 2 Soi 2 Thorakamanakom, Chang Puak, Muang Chiang Mai, +66 8 9000 7728. Created by a group of adventurers that includes two-time world champion kayaker Eric Southwic, they offer world class rafting and kayaking tours, ATV, SuP and trekking. Pick-ups daily from Chiang Mai.
• Peak Adventure Tour, 302/4 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, +66 53-800567. Offers 10 km rafting trips that can be combined with elephant riding or ATV driving.

8Adventures, 21/22 Moo 2 Soi 2 Thorakamanakom, Chang Puak, Muang Chiang Mai, +66 8 9000 7728. Created by a group of adventurers that includes two-time world champion kayaker Eric Southwic, they offer world class rafting and kayaking tours, ATV, SuP and trekking. Pick-ups daily from Chiang Mai.

Peak Adventure Tour, 302/4 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, +66 53-800567. Offers 10 km rafting trips that can be combined with elephant riding or ATV driving.

• Mae Ping River Cruise, 133 Charoen Pratet Rd (Wat Chaimongkol boat landing, between Hotel Chedi and Ping Nakara, +66 53-274822. 08:30-17:00. Two-hour cruise with a refreshment stop at a Thai farmer's house. Hotel pick-up. Be aware that the Mae Ping is a grotty, slow-flowing stream the colour of greenish khaki with nondescript banks. 450 baht.

Mae Ping River Cruise, 133 Charoen Pratet Rd (Wat Chaimongkol boat landing, between Hotel Chedi and Ping Nakara, +66 53-274822. 08:30-17:00. Two-hour cruise with a refreshment stop at a Thai farmer's house. Hotel pick-up. Be aware that the Mae Ping is a grotty, slow-flowing stream the colour of greenish khaki with nondescript banks. 450 baht.

• Aerobics. Aerobics sessions are held in the car park of Tesco Lotus on the superhighway every weekday from 17:30. The sessions are very popular and tourists or visitors to Chiang Mai are welcomed. Regular water aerobics classes, incorporating Tai Chi and yoga exercises, are held at the Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool.
• Cricket. Northern Thailand may seem an odd place to find an international cricket tournament. Every year since 1988 more than 200 cricketers from around the world gather at Chiang Mai for the tournament. The week-long tournament for amateur players, with a sprinkling of test stars, it is held at the historic Chiang Mai Gymkhana Club, generally at the start of April.
• Extreme Sports Centre, 816 Moo 1, Rim Thai, Mae Rim (Go 17 km N to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096, direction Samoeng. Travel 3 km. X-Centre on the left, +66 53-297700. Daily 09:00-18:00. Kiwi-run business, totally buttoned-down and professional. Bungy jumping; off-road buggies; dirt bikes; paintball; indoor drift carts; Xorb ball; sports bar and restaurant. Transport available from Chiang Mai at 09:30, 13:00, 15:00.
• Football (soccer). Go watch the local football team, Chiang Mai FC, play at 700 Year Stadium. Fixtures and info in English or visit the Red Lion English Pub in the Night Bazaar two hours before the game to get a free ride (nearly always available).
• Golfing. Chiang Mai is one of the great golfing destinations in Thailand. The beautiful mountain backdrop, the unrivaled services and affordable green fees made golfing here quite an impressive experience. There is The Annual Chiang Mai Golf Festival during May to June, when almost every golf courses offer very cheap green fees.
• Mountain Biking. Just west of Chiang Mai lies the beautiful Doi Suthep National Park, its summit at 1,650 m, 1,300 m above the valley floor. Chiang Mai Mountain Biking runs daily downhill trips and nature cross country rides.
• Rock Climbing. Approximately 55 km east of Chiang Mai is Crazy Horse Buttress, a 60 m, orange- and black-streaked monolith jutting out of the green Mae On Valley. Crazy Horse boasts more than 130 bolted routes between (French system) grades 5 and 8a, which makes it an ideal destination for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Spend several days exploring every part of the crag, or just spend a day or an afternoon above ground as a break from exploring the magnificent caves of the region. Climbing guides and information are available from Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures.
• Tennis. There are many places to play tennis in Chiang Mai: Gymkhana Club (Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd); Chiang Mai Land Village (Chiang Mai Land Rd); Imperial Chiang Mai Resort & Sports Club (284 Moo 3, Don Kaew, Mae Rim); Lanna Sports Club (Chotana Rd); Palm Springs (120 Moo 5, Mahidol Rd); and Chiang Mai Sports Complex (700 Year Stadium, Irrigation Canal Rd, Rte 121 to Mae Rim), which has 12 courts. All courts are bookable in advance and at most flood lighting makes it possible to play in the evening when it is cooler. There is an additional charge to cover the cost of electricity.
• Yoga. The diversity of yoga studios in Chiang Mai rounds out the image of Chiang Mai as a centre for massage training, healing, and spas.
• Chiang Mai Kayaking, 1 Samlan Road (Inside the old City square, 50 m south of Wat Prasing Temple. Offers guided kayaking tours in the surrounding area for both beginners and experienced.

Aerobics. Aerobics sessions are held in the car park of Tesco Lotus on the superhighway every weekday from 17:30. The sessions are very popular and tourists or visitors to Chiang Mai are welcomed. Regular water aerobics classes, incorporating Tai Chi and yoga exercises, are held at the Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool.

Cricket. Northern Thailand may seem an odd place to find an international cricket tournament. Every year since 1988 more than 200 cricketers from around the world gather at Chiang Mai for the tournament. The week-long tournament for amateur players, with a sprinkling of test stars, it is held at the historic Chiang Mai Gymkhana Club, generally at the start of April.

Extreme Sports Centre, 816 Moo 1, Rim Thai, Mae Rim (Go 17 km N to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096, direction Samoeng. Travel 3 km. X-Centre on the left, +66 53-297700. Daily 09:00-18:00. Kiwi-run business, totally buttoned-down and professional. Bungy jumping; off-road buggies; dirt bikes; paintball; indoor drift carts; Xorb ball; sports bar and restaurant. Transport available from Chiang Mai at 09:30, 13:00, 15:00.

Football (soccer). Go watch the local football team, Chiang Mai FC, play at 700 Year Stadium. Fixtures and info in English or visit the Red Lion English Pub in the Night Bazaar two hours before the game to get a free ride (nearly always available).

Golfing. Chiang Mai is one of the great golfing destinations in Thailand. The beautiful mountain backdrop, the unrivaled services and affordable green fees made golfing here quite an impressive experience. There is The Annual Chiang Mai Golf Festival during May to June, when almost every golf courses offer very cheap green fees.

Mountain Biking. Just west of Chiang Mai lies the beautiful Doi Suthep National Park, its summit at 1,650 m, 1,300 m above the valley floor. Chiang Mai Mountain Biking runs daily downhill trips and nature cross country rides.

Rock Climbing. Approximately 55 km east of Chiang Mai is Crazy Horse Buttress, a 60 m, orange- and black-streaked monolith jutting out of the green Mae On Valley. Crazy Horse boasts more than 130 bolted routes between (French system) grades 5 and 8a, which makes it an ideal destination for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Spend several days exploring every part of the crag, or just spend a day or an afternoon above ground as a break from exploring the magnificent caves of the region. Climbing guides and information are available from Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures.

Tennis. There are many places to play tennis in Chiang Mai: Gymkhana Club (Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd); Chiang Mai Land Village (Chiang Mai Land Rd); Imperial Chiang Mai Resort & Sports Club (284 Moo 3, Don Kaew, Mae Rim); Lanna Sports Club (Chotana Rd); Palm Springs (120 Moo 5, Mahidol Rd); and Chiang Mai Sports Complex (700 Year Stadium, Irrigation Canal Rd, Rte 121 to Mae Rim), which has 12 courts. All courts are bookable in advance and at most flood lighting makes it possible to play in the evening when it is cooler. There is an additional charge to cover the cost of electricity.

Yoga. The diversity of yoga studios in Chiang Mai rounds out the image of Chiang Mai as a centre for massage training, healing, and spas.

Chiang Mai Kayaking, 1 Samlan Road (Inside the old City square, 50 m south of Wat Prasing Temple. Offers guided kayaking tours in the surrounding area for both beginners and experienced.

Chiang Mai swimming pools open to the public vary in quality, cleanliness, and accessibility. On balance, those pools which are operated to internationally recognised standards of water quality are those which are privately owned by foreign investors.

• Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool and Resort. Open to tourists and other visitors. There are 3 swimming pools and decks. A detailed map and directions in Thai and English can be printed from their website. The pool is sanitised using salt water.
• Chiang Mai Land Swimming Pool. Open to the public. It has a pool deck and also has a restaurant and pool-side service. The pool is sanitised using chlorine. Adults, 50 baht; children, 30 baht.
• Hotel Pools. Some up-market hotels such as The Orchid on Huay Kaew Rd allow non-guests to use their pools for a fee. Travelling time from the city centre is around 10 min. These are sanitised using chlorine.
• The Lake at Huay Tung Tao. A reservoir in surrounding woodlands. Admission, 20 baht..
• Seven Hundred Year Stadium. W-Su 10:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:45. A huge sports complex built for the SE Asia Games, held in Chiang Mai in the early 1990s, and now a public sports and recreation centre. The pool is sanitised using chlorine. Membership is required but it's open to anyone. It costs 300 baht/year and you have to provide two passport-size pictures. Single entry is 30 baht after that.
• Waterfalls and Natural Pools. The pools at the bottom of the waterfalls are not really big enough for swimming, but are a great place to cool off at the height of summer. During the dry season some of the waterfalls dry up. Head for the high ground and you will still find pools full of fresh water. There are usually quite a few students hanging out there from the nearby university, who will happily practice their English conversational skills with you. Free.

Centre of the Universe Swimming Pool and Resort. Open to tourists and other visitors. There are 3 swimming pools and decks. A detailed map and directions in Thai and English can be printed from their website. The pool is sanitised using salt water.

Chiang Mai Land Swimming Pool. Open to the public. It has a pool deck and also has a restaurant and pool-side service. The pool is sanitised using chlorine. Adults, 50 baht; children, 30 baht.

Hotel Pools. Some up-market hotels such as The Orchid on Huay Kaew Rd allow non-guests to use their pools for a fee. Travelling time from the city centre is around 10 min. These are sanitised using chlorine.

The Lake at Huay Tung Tao. A reservoir in surrounding woodlands. Admission, 20 baht..

Seven Hundred Year Stadium. W-Su 10:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:45. A huge sports complex built for the SE Asia Games, held in Chiang Mai in the early 1990s, and now a public sports and recreation centre. The pool is sanitised using chlorine. Membership is required but it's open to anyone. It costs 300 baht/year and you have to provide two passport-size pictures. Single entry is 30 baht after that.

Waterfalls and Natural Pools. The pools at the bottom of the waterfalls are not really big enough for swimming, but are a great place to cool off at the height of summer. During the dry season some of the waterfalls dry up. Head for the high ground and you will still find pools full of fresh water. There are usually quite a few students hanging out there from the nearby university, who will happily practice their English conversational skills with you. Free.

• Panumart Tattoo, 77/3 Samlaan Rd, Mueang, Chiang Mai 50200, +66 97 098 4517. 11:00-19:00. Panumart Tattoo offers bamboo tattoos, traditional Thai sak yant tattoos, ands a range of modern tattoo styles. Tattoo artists are of high quality. Western-hygienic standards are practiced. English is spoken by managers and artists.

Panumart Tattoo, 77/3 Samlaan Rd, Mueang, Chiang Mai 50200, +66 97 098 4517. 11:00-19:00. Panumart Tattoo offers bamboo tattoos, traditional Thai sak yant tattoos, ands a range of modern tattoo styles. Tattoo artists are of high quality. Western-hygienic standards are practiced. English is spoken by managers and artists.

Miracle Cabaret Chiang Mai

• The Playhouse Complex. Start your evening with a unique dining experience in Kinnaree Park. Set in an eco-friendly environment, surrounded by mountains and waterfalls offering a real Lanna experience with traditional dance and a delicious northern Thai buffet before entering the theatre adjacent to the restaurant. The 350-seat capacity theatre hosts two shows per day at 20:00 and 22:00. Presenting Sequins & Dance, a fun and happy performance of wholesome entertainment that's full of sparkle, movement, and emotion. Performed by 30 Thai performers, it is exciting. Family, individual or group bookings welcome. Adult 1,000 baht; child 500 baht. Thai buffet (Saturdays): adult 1,300 baht; child 650 baht.

The Playhouse Complex. Start your evening with a unique dining experience in Kinnaree Park. Set in an eco-friendly environment, surrounded by mountains and waterfalls offering a real Lanna experience with traditional dance and a delicious northern Thai buffet before entering the theatre adjacent to the restaurant. The 350-seat capacity theatre hosts two shows per day at 20:00 and 22:00. Presenting Sequins & Dance, a fun and happy performance of wholesome entertainment that's full of sparkle, movement, and emotion. Performed by 30 Thai performers, it is exciting. Family, individual or group bookings welcome. Adult 1,000 baht; child 500 baht. Thai buffet (Saturdays): adult 1,300 baht; child 650 baht.

• Baanchang Elephant Park, 147/1 Rachadamnoen Rd, +66 53 814 174 or +66 89 635 5206. Although they offer an "Elephant's Day Care" program with no riding, be warned that they also offer elephant rides through their "Elephant Training Courses." 4500 baht a day (can be split between two people who share a ride one elephant).
• Eddy Elephant Care Chiang Mai, 87 Sripoom Rd, +66 53 222 525. Although their brochures states, "We try the best to take a good care of the elephants," they offer elephant rides. 2,300 baht a day including lunch and transportation.
• Elephant Jungle Sanctuary, 119/10 Tha Phae Rd Chang Klan (Approximately 60 km S of Chiang Mai, +66 53 273 415. 08:00-22:00. EJS is an ethical and sustainable eco-tourism project located approximately 60 km from the city of Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand. Founded in July 2014, it is a joint initiative between members of the Karen hilltribes and Chiang Mai locals who were concerned about the welfare of elephants in Thailand. The Elephant Jungle Sanctuary project also provides many Karen people with employment, education, and financial support. Half-day, full-day, and overnight visits to the sanctuary are available. Weekly volunteering opportunities can also be arranged. Half-day 1,500 baht; 1 day 2,400 baht; overnight 4,900 baht; week 11,500 baht.
• Elephant Nature Park, 1 Ratmakka Rd (Approximately 60 km N of Chiang Mai, +66 53 272 855. 07:30-21:30. A renowned sanctuary for rescued and abused elephants, established in 1996 by Lek Chailert, a native Thai woman who has become an internationally-recognized elephant advocate. During a day visit you will feed and bathe the elephants, walk with them around the scenic 50 acre park, and be treated to a vegetarian buffet lunch. Cats and dogs rescued after the tsunami also live at the park, dozing on benches and getting lots of love from visitors. Day and overnight visits as well as one week volunteering opportunities can be booked via the website. Pick up and drop off at your hotel in Chiang Mai. Day 2,500 baht; week 12,000 baht.
• Elephant Retirement Park, 5 Kotchasarn Rd, +66 81 961 9663. Established to create a haven for retired elephants formerly working in building yards, a sustainable habitat for the elephants to live in a safe and natural environment free from profiteering and neglect. Family units are never separated and herbal medicines are used to keep the animals healthy and enjoy a better quality of life. There is no riding or beating of any kind. The main focus of the park is to promote the well-being of retired elephants. Visitors and volunteers can expect to work with the local mahouts to care, feed, and bathe the elephants. 2,600 baht/person.
• Friends for Asia Elephant Camp Volunteer Project, 63/3 Old Chang Moi Rd, Chang Moi, +66 53 232 053. After a two-day orientation in Chiang Mai, coordinating staff sends volunteers to the elephant camp, roughly a one hour drive from the city. Volunteers stay from Monday to Friday bathing, feeding, caring for and learning about elephants. Lodging is in a tree house on the premises. Two week minimum. 36,671 baht for two weeks; 7,466 baht for each additional week.
• Mae Sa Elephant Camp, 119/9 Tha Phae Rd, +66 53 206 247 or +66 53 206 248. An elephant camp in the hills about an hour's drive north of the city centre. It has an elephant show, which includes elephants playing football and painting, not natural activities for these creatures. "Like elephants used in the elephant trekking industry, young elephants used for painting must be broken and experience the pain of the phajaan process. Over this time baby elephants are starved, shackled, and beaten, until their spirit is completely broken and will submit to the will of their captors. Once young elephants have undergone this process they can being learning to paint. More info." You can also take half-hour or one hour elephant rides.
• Patara Elephant Farm, 299/22 Siwalee Rachapreuk MaeHea (29 km SW of the city centre., +66 81 671 0958 (English), +66 85 076 8461 (Deutsch). As their website states, "you learn how to ride on its neck." 5,800 baht including transport and lunch.
• Tiger Kingdom, Rim Tai, Amphoe Mae Rim.

Baanchang Elephant Park, 147/1 Rachadamnoen Rd, +66 53 814 174 or +66 89 635 5206. Although they offer an "Elephant's Day Care" program with no riding, be warned that they also offer elephant rides through their "Elephant Training Courses." 4500 baht a day (can be split between two people who share a ride one elephant).

Eddy Elephant Care Chiang Mai, 87 Sripoom Rd, +66 53 222 525. Although their brochures states, "We try the best to take a good care of the elephants," they offer elephant rides. 2,300 baht a day including lunch and transportation.

Elephant Jungle Sanctuary, 119/10 Tha Phae Rd Chang Klan (Approximately 60 km S of Chiang Mai, +66 53 273 415. 08:00-22:00. EJS is an ethical and sustainable eco-tourism project located approximately 60 km from the city of Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand. Founded in July 2014, it is a joint initiative between members of the Karen hilltribes and Chiang Mai locals who were concerned about the welfare of elephants in Thailand. The Elephant Jungle Sanctuary project also provides many Karen people with employment, education, and financial support. Half-day, full-day, and overnight visits to the sanctuary are available. Weekly volunteering opportunities can also be arranged. Half-day 1,500 baht; 1 day 2,400 baht; overnight 4,900 baht; week 11,500 baht.

Elephant Nature Park, 1 Ratmakka Rd (Approximately 60 km N of Chiang Mai, +66 53 272 855. 07:30-21:30. A renowned sanctuary for rescued and abused elephants, established in 1996 by Lek Chailert, a native Thai woman who has become an internationally-recognized elephant advocate. During a day visit you will feed and bathe the elephants, walk with them around the scenic 50 acre park, and be treated to a vegetarian buffet lunch. Cats and dogs rescued after the tsunami also live at the park, dozing on benches and getting lots of love from visitors. Day and overnight visits as well as one week volunteering opportunities can be booked via the website. Pick up and drop off at your hotel in Chiang Mai. Day 2,500 baht; week 12,000 baht.

Elephant Retirement Park, 5 Kotchasarn Rd, +66 81 961 9663. Established to create a haven for retired elephants formerly working in building yards, a sustainable habitat for the elephants to live in a safe and natural environment free from profiteering and neglect. Family units are never separated and herbal medicines are used to keep the animals healthy and enjoy a better quality of life. There is no riding or beating of any kind. The main focus of the park is to promote the well-being of retired elephants. Visitors and volunteers can expect to work with the local mahouts to care, feed, and bathe the elephants. 2,600 baht/person.

Friends for Asia Elephant Camp Volunteer Project, 63/3 Old Chang Moi Rd, Chang Moi, +66 53 232 053. After a two-day orientation in Chiang Mai, coordinating staff sends volunteers to the elephant camp, roughly a one hour drive from the city. Volunteers stay from Monday to Friday bathing, feeding, caring for and learning about elephants. Lodging is in a tree house on the premises. Two week minimum. 36,671 baht for two weeks; 7,466 baht for each additional week.

Mae Sa Elephant Camp, 119/9 Tha Phae Rd, +66 53 206 247 or +66 53 206 248. An elephant camp in the hills about an hour's drive north of the city centre. It has an elephant show, which includes elephants playing football and painting, not natural activities for these creatures. "Like elephants used in the elephant trekking industry, young elephants used for painting must be broken and experience the pain of the phajaan process. Over this time baby elephants are starved, shackled, and beaten, until their spirit is completely broken and will submit to the will of their captors. Once young elephants have undergone this process they can being learning to paint. More info." You can also take half-hour or one hour elephant rides.

Patara Elephant Farm, 299/22 Siwalee Rachapreuk MaeHea (29 km SW of the city centre., +66 81 671 0958 (English), +66 85 076 8461 (Deutsch). As their website states, "you learn how to ride on its neck." 5,800 baht including transport and lunch.

Tiger Kingdom, Rim Tai, Amphoe Mae Rim.

Chiang Mai is a great place to shop. Sprawling markets during the day and night carry items from cheap trinkets to skilfully made local crafts.

• Back Street Books, 2/8 Chang Moi Kao Rd (Main branch outside the moat in the vicinity of the Tha Phae Gate. On the road right behind the Starbucks. Almost next door to Gecko Books.. Large collection of used books. Fiction and non-fiction.
• DK Book Centre, 79/1 Kotchasan Rd (Just past the turn to Loi Kroh Rd in a shopping centre on the left, +66 53-208995. M-F 10:30-20:00; Sa-Su 09:00-20:00. Not the best selection of Western language titles, but particularly strong in educational books and learning resources of every description.
• Gekko Books, 2/6 Chang Moi Kao Rd (Main branch outside the moat in the vicinity of the Tha Phae Gate. On the road right behind the Starbucks., +66 91-745-6971. Daily 09:00-20:00. Three locations. Large collection of used books. On-line ordering.
• The Lost Book Shop.
• Suriwong Book Centre, Sridonchai Rd (Two blocks west of Chang Khlan Rd (Night Bazaar). Essentially two shops: a magazine shop open from 08:00-20:00 and the main, large book/stationery shop open from 10:00-19:00. Good selection of Western language titles, and wide variety of Thai titles, as well as office supplies. Pleasant ambience.

Back Street Books, 2/8 Chang Moi Kao Rd (Main branch outside the moat in the vicinity of the Tha Phae Gate. On the road right behind the Starbucks. Almost next door to Gecko Books.. Large collection of used books. Fiction and non-fiction.

DK Book Centre, 79/1 Kotchasan Rd (Just past the turn to Loi Kroh Rd in a shopping centre on the left, +66 53-208995. M-F 10:30-20:00; Sa-Su 09:00-20:00. Not the best selection of Western language titles, but particularly strong in educational books and learning resources of every description.

Gekko Books, 2/6 Chang Moi Kao Rd (Main branch outside the moat in the vicinity of the Tha Phae Gate. On the road right behind the Starbucks., +66 91-745-6971. Daily 09:00-20:00. Three locations. Large collection of used books. On-line ordering.

The Lost Book Shop.

Suriwong Book Centre, Sridonchai Rd (Two blocks west of Chang Khlan Rd (Night Bazaar). Essentially two shops: a magazine shop open from 08:00-20:00 and the main, large book/stationery shop open from 10:00-19:00. Good selection of Western language titles, and wide variety of Thai titles, as well as office supplies. Pleasant ambience.

• Nok 'Em Ded Designs, 162/5 Prapokklao Rd, Prasingh (From Tha Phae Gate, go straight on Rachadamnoen Rd, turn left at 2nd intersection. Shop is on left, opposite Wat Puntao & Wat Chedi Luang., +66 53-280960, +66 87-0344067. M 12:00-20:00; Tu-Sa 10:00-20:00; Su 10:00-23:00. Unique styles from simple to extravagant. English-speaking owners & staff. Jewellery is handmade by the artist owners. Great quality T-shirt collection. from 50 baht.
• Palmy Shoes, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 5, +66 81-4720607. Handmade leather shoes and accessories. The owners speak English and all shoes are made locally. 1,000-2,500 baht.

Nok 'Em Ded Designs, 162/5 Prapokklao Rd, Prasingh (From Tha Phae Gate, go straight on Rachadamnoen Rd, turn left at 2nd intersection. Shop is on left, opposite Wat Puntao & Wat Chedi Luang., +66 53-280960, +66 87-0344067. M 12:00-20:00; Tu-Sa 10:00-20:00; Su 10:00-23:00. Unique styles from simple to extravagant. English-speaking owners & staff. Jewellery is handmade by the artist owners. Great quality T-shirt collection. from 50 baht.

Palmy Shoes, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 5, +66 81-4720607. Handmade leather shoes and accessories. The owners speak English and all shoes are made locally. 1,000-2,500 baht.

• Rimping Supermarkets, 129 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (Chang Moi Rd E to Kad Luang, take a right, S to the Nawarat Bridge (Thapae Rd). Cross the bridge and take a right. Drive 1 block S past the Iron bridge, Rimping on the left., +66 53-246333-4. Daily 08:00-21:00. If you want Western foodstuffs like good bread, pickles, charcuterie, etc., pickings are slim in the vicinity of the Old City. 9 locations in the Chiang Mai area, map on the website. It's comparatively expensive, but they're one of the few supermarkets that sell western groceries.
• Tops Supermarket, 21 Huay Kaew Rd (From the NW corner of the moat, go about 500 m W towards the mountains. Shopping centre on your left., +66 53 224953. Daily, 09:00-21:00. At the lowest level of the Kad Suan Kaew Shopping Centre. Good selection of Western foods, including good bread, cheese, wine and beer. There are five Tops locations in the Chiang Mai area.
• Kasem Store, 19 Ratchawong Road, Muang, Chiang Mai, +66 53 234 986. A small store a few doors up from Chang Moi Road, situated near but not in Warowot market ( to the east of the walled city and just before the Ping River). Has those difficult to get items such as real powdered milk, black loose leafed tea, assorted good cereals, assorted pastries, etc. Has a good assortment of foreign goods including vegetarian and vegan food. Good English spoken.

Rimping Supermarkets, 129 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (Chang Moi Rd E to Kad Luang, take a right, S to the Nawarat Bridge (Thapae Rd). Cross the bridge and take a right. Drive 1 block S past the Iron bridge, Rimping on the left., +66 53-246333-4. Daily 08:00-21:00. If you want Western foodstuffs like good bread, pickles, charcuterie, etc., pickings are slim in the vicinity of the Old City. 9 locations in the Chiang Mai area, map on the website. It's comparatively expensive, but they're one of the few supermarkets that sell western groceries.

Tops Supermarket, 21 Huay Kaew Rd (From the NW corner of the moat, go about 500 m W towards the mountains. Shopping centre on your left., +66 53 224953. Daily, 09:00-21:00. At the lowest level of the Kad Suan Kaew Shopping Centre. Good selection of Western foods, including good bread, cheese, wine and beer. There are five Tops locations in the Chiang Mai area.

Kasem Store, 19 Ratchawong Road, Muang, Chiang Mai, +66 53 234 986. A small store a few doors up from Chang Moi Road, situated near but not in Warowot market ( to the east of the walled city and just before the Ping River). Has those difficult to get items such as real powdered milk, black loose leafed tea, assorted good cereals, assorted pastries, etc. Has a good assortment of foreign goods including vegetarian and vegan food. Good English spoken.

Along Rte 1006 (Charoen Muang Rd) just past the superhighway (Rte 11) are various factories offering factory tours. Silverware, silk, furniture and brass items generally priced with the cashed-up tourist in mind, but the tours might be worth a look to see how things are made. They are generally open during typical daytime hours.

• Mengrai Kilns, 79/2 Arak Rd, Samlan 6, +66 53-272063. Celadon green-glazed ceramics. Sift through their pile of rejects in the covered area to the right of store and find something interesting for 20 baht. 20-500 baht.

Mengrai Kilns, 79/2 Arak Rd, Samlan 6, +66 53-272063. Celadon green-glazed ceramics. Sift through their pile of rejects in the covered area to the right of store and find something interesting for 20 baht. 20-500 baht.

• CentralFestival, 99/3 Moo 4, Tambon Fah Ham (NE of the city centre, Juvenile Court intersection, Super Hwy 11 and Chiang Mai-Doi Saket Rd (Rte 118). Take Kaewnawarat east, past the bus station, cross the ring road and turn into the entrance on the left. Coming from the N, take the first ring road and turn into the entrance before crossing Rte 118 (Doi Saket Rd/Kaewnawarat)., +66 53 998999. M-Th 11:00-21:30; F 11:00-22:00; Sa-Su 10:00-22:00. Measuring 250,000 m², with 250 shops, it rivals the Central Plaza Chiang Mai in size. Central Festival opened in late 2013 and includes an ice rink, IMAX and 4DX cinemas, dozens of restaurants and shops on five floors. A food court on the fifth floor as well as at the ground floor level (with better prices). All banks and mobile phone companies are represented.
• Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport, 2 Mahidol Rd, Haiya, (Corner Thipanet Rd and Mahidon Rd, about a kilometre from the airport, +66 53-999199. On five floors, with a food court, banks/ATMs, and multi-screen cinema. It also has a Cultural Centre attached selling many crafts, a large food market, and an extensive selection of Thai ready-to-eat stalls in the basement.
• Kad Suan Keaw, 21 Huay Kaew Rd (Near corner Huay Kaew Rd and Bunreuangrit Rd, +66 53-224444. Daily 10:00-21:00. Great location, just off the moat's NW corner. Decent shops, very good Tops Supermarket, restaurants and banks/ATMs.
• MAYA Lifestyle Shopping Center, 55 Moo 5, Huay Kaew Rd. Chang Phuak (Corner Huay Kaew Rd and Superhighway, +66 52 081555. The Rimping Supermarket on the lowest floor is open from 06:00-24:00. The cinemas on the top floor are open late. Restaurants and bars on the open roof afford good views of Chiang Mai.
• One Nimman, 1 Nimman Haemin Rd (At the corner of Nimmanhaemin Soi 1, +66 52 080 900. 11:00-23:00. A shopping centre in pseudo-Italian style. Many smaller shops at the ground floor, a kind of department store on the second floor. Warning: People who cannot walk very well should not use the escalator to the second floor. Once you are up, it is not possible to go back with the downwards escalator, but you need to go through the entire department store, a 250 meter walk passing 10 short flights of stairs. There is no warning sign for this when you approach the escalator!
• Promenada Resort Mall, 192-193 Tasala (Corner Rte 1141 and Rte 3029 (1st ringroad). This mall is significant distance from the city centre, though there are free shuttles; otherwise a phone call is required to get a taxi back to the city since there is no taxi stand., +66 53 142761. M-F 11:00-21:00; Sa Su holidays 10:00-21:00. Spacious, two floor, sprawling mall opened in 2013. The immigration office is also located here.

CentralFestival, 99/3 Moo 4, Tambon Fah Ham (NE of the city centre, Juvenile Court intersection, Super Hwy 11 and Chiang Mai-Doi Saket Rd (Rte 118). Take Kaewnawarat east, past the bus station, cross the ring road and turn into the entrance on the left. Coming from the N, take the first ring road and turn into the entrance before crossing Rte 118 (Doi Saket Rd/Kaewnawarat)., +66 53 998999. M-Th 11:00-21:30; F 11:00-22:00; Sa-Su 10:00-22:00. Measuring 250,000 m², with 250 shops, it rivals the Central Plaza Chiang Mai in size. Central Festival opened in late 2013 and includes an ice rink, IMAX and 4DX cinemas, dozens of restaurants and shops on five floors. A food court on the fifth floor as well as at the ground floor level (with better prices). All banks and mobile phone companies are represented.

Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport, 2 Mahidol Rd, Haiya, (Corner Thipanet Rd and Mahidon Rd, about a kilometre from the airport, +66 53-999199. On five floors, with a food court, banks/ATMs, and multi-screen cinema. It also has a Cultural Centre attached selling many crafts, a large food market, and an extensive selection of Thai ready-to-eat stalls in the basement.

Kad Suan Keaw, 21 Huay Kaew Rd (Near corner Huay Kaew Rd and Bunreuangrit Rd, +66 53-224444. Daily 10:00-21:00. Great location, just off the moat's NW corner. Decent shops, very good Tops Supermarket, restaurants and banks/ATMs.

MAYA Lifestyle Shopping Center, 55 Moo 5, Huay Kaew Rd. Chang Phuak (Corner Huay Kaew Rd and Superhighway, +66 52 081555. The Rimping Supermarket on the lowest floor is open from 06:00-24:00. The cinemas on the top floor are open late. Restaurants and bars on the open roof afford good views of Chiang Mai.

One Nimman, 1 Nimman Haemin Rd (At the corner of Nimmanhaemin Soi 1, +66 52 080 900. 11:00-23:00. A shopping centre in pseudo-Italian style. Many smaller shops at the ground floor, a kind of department store on the second floor. Warning: People who cannot walk very well should not use the escalator to the second floor. Once you are up, it is not possible to go back with the downwards escalator, but you need to go through the entire department store, a 250 meter walk passing 10 short flights of stairs. There is no warning sign for this when you approach the escalator!

Promenada Resort Mall, 192-193 Tasala (Corner Rte 1141 and Rte 3029 (1st ringroad). This mall is significant distance from the city centre, though there are free shuttles; otherwise a phone call is required to get a taxi back to the city since there is no taxi stand., +66 53 142761. M-F 11:00-21:00; Sa Su holidays 10:00-21:00. Spacious, two floor, sprawling mall opened in 2013. The immigration office is also located here.

• Anusarn Market. 18:00-24:00. During the day time the Anusarn Market area is devoid of any vendor stalls. All the permanent shops, bars, and eateries around the inside walls of the market area are open for business. Every afternoon the Anusarn Market vendors move in, erect their large tent type stalls and open. Good shopping, good restaurants, and in a back corner there is a ladyboy cabaret that puts on a one-hour show at 21:30 at a reasonable price.
• Chiang Mai Gate Market. A major shopping venue for fruit, vegetables, meat, and fish for locals. Between the ring roads and in the vicinity are numerous food stalls.
• Kalare Market. 18:00-24:00. A large covered arcade full of shops with an open food court and entertainment area. The food court operates on a coupon system: you buy coupons from the cashiers, then redeem them at the many small adjacent food stalls. Cheap dining. The market has bars, many shops, massage shops.
• Malin Plaza Night Market, +66 53-892111. About 18:00-. If the Night Bazaar is the place tourists go at night, Malin Plaza is where young Thais go. It's proximity to มช ("maw chaw", the local nickname for CMU) means that in the evening this place is crawling with teens and twenty-somethings. Clothing is young, trendy and cheap. Cheap restaurants abound, including a number of all-you-can-eat table-top barbecues, usually priced about 175 baht per person.
• Night Bazaar. 18:00-24:00. A huge indoor/outdoor commercial maelstrom centred on the Night Bazaar Building on the west side of Changklan Rd. The Night Bazaar can be considered an entire region of the city as it incorporates the Anusarn and Kalare Markets as well, with the borders being ambiguous (and unimportant). It can take a concerted effort to find something different among the near identical stalls selling tourist-oriented sunglasses, T-shirts, textiles, watches, luggage, caps, and anything else small enough to sell from a market stall. You rarely see Thai people shopping here. On the east side of the street you will find the Anusarn and Kalare Markets with wider offerings.

• Sompet Market. Just south of the moat's northeast corner. Mostly a fruit and veg market for locals, but close at hand to the many guesthouses in the area so a good place for visitors to stock up on grub. Lots of prepared meat and meals as well.

• Tha Phae Walking Street, Ratchadamnoen Rd (From the Tha Phae Gate W along Ratchadamnoen to Singharat Rd at Wat Prah Sing.. Su 17:00-23:00. This market is enormous and takes up several blocks on either side of Ratchadamnoen including from Ratchawithi to Ratchamanka on Prapoklao (from the 3 Kings Monument to past Wat Chedi Luang). The street is blocked off to traffic for local craft vendors to layout their handmade wares. There are food vendors strewn throughout. It starts at 16:00, but not everyone is set up until around 18:00. Runs late, but most vendors start to pack up around 22:00 or so.

• Warorot Market, Tha Phae Rd and Chang Moi Rd. 07:00-17:00. This sprawling indoor/outdoor market is where the locals shop and is worth a visit to look over the plethora of fabrics, spices, tea, and dried fruit piled up along the aisles. Across the road is a flower and fruit market and an out-of-this-world fireworks stand. At night the street is packed with snack stalls.
• Wualai Walking Street, Wualai Rd (Outside the moat on the city's S side, starting roughly across from Chiang Mai Gate. Sa 17:00-23:00. In the old silver-working district, it's a smaller version of the Sunday market with many of the same vendors.

Anusarn Market. 18:00-24:00. During the day time the Anusarn Market area is devoid of any vendor stalls. All the permanent shops, bars, and eateries around the inside walls of the market area are open for business. Every afternoon the Anusarn Market vendors move in, erect their large tent type stalls and open. Good shopping, good restaurants, and in a back corner there is a ladyboy cabaret that puts on a one-hour show at 21:30 at a reasonable price.

Chiang Mai Gate Market. A major shopping venue for fruit, vegetables, meat, and fish for locals. Between the ring roads and in the vicinity are numerous food stalls.

Kalare Market. 18:00-24:00. A large covered arcade full of shops with an open food court and entertainment area. The food court operates on a coupon system: you buy coupons from the cashiers, then redeem them at the many small adjacent food stalls. Cheap dining. The market has bars, many shops, massage shops.

Malin Plaza Night Market, +66 53-892111. About 18:00-. If the Night Bazaar is the place tourists go at night, Malin Plaza is where young Thais go. It's proximity to มช ("maw chaw", the local nickname for CMU) means that in the evening this place is crawling with teens and twenty-somethings. Clothing is young, trendy and cheap. Cheap restaurants abound, including a number of all-you-can-eat table-top barbecues, usually priced about 175 baht per person.

Night Bazaar. 18:00-24:00. A huge indoor/outdoor commercial maelstrom centred on the Night Bazaar Building on the west side of Changklan Rd. The Night Bazaar can be considered an entire region of the city as it incorporates the Anusarn and Kalare Markets as well, with the borders being ambiguous (and unimportant). It can take a concerted effort to find something different among the near identical stalls selling tourist-oriented sunglasses, T-shirts, textiles, watches, luggage, caps, and anything else small enough to sell from a market stall. You rarely see Thai people shopping here. On the east side of the street you will find the Anusarn and Kalare Markets with wider offerings.

Sompet Market. Just south of the moat's northeast corner. Mostly a fruit and veg market for locals, but close at hand to the many guesthouses in the area so a good place for visitors to stock up on grub. Lots of prepared meat and meals as well.

Tha Phae Walking Street, Ratchadamnoen Rd (From the Tha Phae Gate W along Ratchadamnoen to Singharat Rd at Wat Prah Sing.. Su 17:00-23:00. This market is enormous and takes up several blocks on either side of Ratchadamnoen including from Ratchawithi to Ratchamanka on Prapoklao (from the 3 Kings Monument to past Wat Chedi Luang). The street is blocked off to traffic for local craft vendors to layout their handmade wares. There are food vendors strewn throughout. It starts at 16:00, but not everyone is set up until around 18:00. Runs late, but most vendors start to pack up around 22:00 or so.

Warorot Market, Tha Phae Rd and Chang Moi Rd. 07:00-17:00. This sprawling indoor/outdoor market is where the locals shop and is worth a visit to look over the plethora of fabrics, spices, tea, and dried fruit piled up along the aisles. Across the road is a flower and fruit market and an out-of-this-world fireworks stand. At night the street is packed with snack stalls.

Wualai Walking Street, Wualai Rd (Outside the moat on the city's S side, starting roughly across from Chiang Mai Gate. Sa 17:00-23:00. In the old silver-working district, it's a smaller version of the Sunday market with many of the same vendors.

• Lanna Rentals Co Ltd, 3/1 Loi Kroh Rd, Soi 1 (As you walk down Loi Kroh, turn right on Soi 1, marked by a street sign. About 50 m on the left, +66 884 327496. 09:00-24:00. Tam, a lovely Thai lady, and Tony, her British partner, run a motorbike rental service combined with a coffee shop, bar, and restaurant. He's a bike expert. She's expert in people, creating great food and a convivial ambience. Excellent coffee, food, and bikes. Weekly and monthly rentals available. Honda Scoopy 200 baht per day; Honda Click, 250 baht; Honda PCX, 350 baht.

Lanna Rentals Co Ltd, 3/1 Loi Kroh Rd, Soi 1 (As you walk down Loi Kroh, turn right on Soi 1, marked by a street sign. About 50 m on the left, +66 884 327496. 09:00-24:00. Tam, a lovely Thai lady, and Tony, her British partner, run a motorbike rental service combined with a coffee shop, bar, and restaurant. He's a bike expert. She's expert in people, creating great food and a convivial ambience. Excellent coffee, food, and bikes. Weekly and monthly rentals available. Honda Scoopy 200 baht per day; Honda Click, 250 baht; Honda PCX, 350 baht.

A bowl of Chiang Mai's signature dish, Khao Soi Kai, with pickled cabbage and lime to add to taste

Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth, traditionally served with chicken (kai) or beef (nuea), but available some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Another local specialty is hang ley, Lanna-style pork curry. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent international food restaurants, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian restaurants.

When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a khantoke dinner and show. Although these are just for tourists it is still a nice way to spend an evening. The first khantoke dinner was held in 1953 by Professor Kraisi Nimanhemin who wanted to host a special event for 2 friends leaving Chiang Mai. Two more such dinners were held, both in 1953, thus "khantoke" dinners are not "historic", but rather a relatively recent invention. Khantoke literally means small bowl, low table (khan = small bowl. tok = low table) There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

The range and value of Western food in Chiang Mai is unsurpassed in Northern Thailand and there is a full range of restaurants from Australian/British/Irish, through French and German to Italian, Spanish, American and Mexican. Considering how remote Chiang Mai is from the major centres of population in Asia, there are a remarkable number of Western restaurants.

• Khao Soi Siri Chai, Inthawarorot Rd (behind the Three Kings monument. A street-side restaurant dedicated to the Northern Thai signature dish khao soi and Hainan Chicken Rice. It is not easily missed as a huge sign is placed outside. It is a local favourite, and has also been discovered by foreign visitors. 40 baht.

• Anusarn Market, Changklan Rd (Side of road opposite Night Bazaar Building, further down the street. A busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai, Indian and Western restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere.
• Kalare Food Centre, Changklan Rd (Opposite the Night Bazaar Building. 17:00-22:00. Has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with pre-purchased coupons. mains 20-50 baht.
• Suthep Road Moveable Feast. Daily 17:00-22:00. Dozens of food carts set up every evening around from around 17:00 until about 22:00, with a huge variety of very inexpensive food, and tables set up along the pavement.

Anusarn Market, Changklan Rd (Side of road opposite Night Bazaar Building, further down the street. A busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai, Indian and Western restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere.

Kalare Food Centre, Changklan Rd (Opposite the Night Bazaar Building. 17:00-22:00. Has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with pre-purchased coupons. mains 20-50 baht.

Suthep Road Moveable Feast. Daily 17:00-22:00. Dozens of food carts set up every evening around from around 17:00 until about 22:00, with a huge variety of very inexpensive food, and tables set up along the pavement.

• Funkydog Cafe, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 6 (Inside moat. Local handmade coffee from a local hill tribe. Fantastic Thai family cooking. All fresh and made by hand, great atmosphere and music, low-cost food. Genuine owner who will keep you informed of all the natural products you should eat. The yellow curry is recommended.
• Guaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Rd (Near Ratchamanka Rd (inside moat); English sign on sidewalk. Serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff. 25 baht.
• Kanjana Restaurant, Ratchadamnoen Rd Soi 5. Delicious food at really low prices. Friendly staff.
• Lucky Pub and Restaurant, +66 86-99227115. Daily 18:00-08:00. Lucky Pub is on the ground floor. The restaurant is above and to the rear. The bar opens and 16:00 and closes at 02:00. The restaurant opens at 18:00 and closes at 08:00 the next morning. This is its appeal. When everything else is closed at 03:00 and you're hungry, this is one of the only places to go. Thai food only. Free Wi-Fi in the bar. Small Chang beer 80 baht; fried rice 60 baht.
• Muan Baan, Moon Muang, Soi 7. A variety of Thai meals, for breakfast and lunch. The food is excellent and the owners and staff are very pleasant and helpful.
• Ratana’s Kitchen, Tha Phae Rd. Popular for its wide range of Thai dishes and a huge vegetarian selection. Smoking (inside, air-conditioned) and non-smoking areas. Visa and MasterCard accepted. 30-60 baht.
• Re-Feel Café, 48/4-5 Rachawithi Rd (Inside moat. Great Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.
• Sailomjoy Restaurant, 7 Rachadamnoen Rd (Near Tha Phae Gate (inside moat). Daily, 07:30-16:00. Delicious food (Thai, Western and vegetarian), friendly service and simple and relaxed atmosphere.

Funkydog Cafe, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 6 (Inside moat. Local handmade coffee from a local hill tribe. Fantastic Thai family cooking. All fresh and made by hand, great atmosphere and music, low-cost food. Genuine owner who will keep you informed of all the natural products you should eat. The yellow curry is recommended.

Guaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Rd (Near Ratchamanka Rd (inside moat); English sign on sidewalk. Serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff. 25 baht.

Kanjana Restaurant, Ratchadamnoen Rd Soi 5. Delicious food at really low prices. Friendly staff.

Lucky Pub and Restaurant, +66 86-99227115. Daily 18:00-08:00. Lucky Pub is on the ground floor. The restaurant is above and to the rear. The bar opens and 16:00 and closes at 02:00. The restaurant opens at 18:00 and closes at 08:00 the next morning. This is its appeal. When everything else is closed at 03:00 and you're hungry, this is one of the only places to go. Thai food only. Free Wi-Fi in the bar. Small Chang beer 80 baht; fried rice 60 baht.

Muan Baan, Moon Muang, Soi 7. A variety of Thai meals, for breakfast and lunch. The food is excellent and the owners and staff are very pleasant and helpful.

Ratana’s Kitchen, Tha Phae Rd. Popular for its wide range of Thai dishes and a huge vegetarian selection. Smoking (inside, air-conditioned) and non-smoking areas. Visa and MasterCard accepted. 30-60 baht.

Re-Feel Café, 48/4-5 Rachawithi Rd (Inside moat. Great Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.

Sailomjoy Restaurant, 7 Rachadamnoen Rd (Near Tha Phae Gate (inside moat). Daily, 07:30-16:00. Delicious food (Thai, Western and vegetarian), friendly service and simple and relaxed atmosphere.

• Ghekko Garden Bar and Restaurant, Sridonchai Rd (Opposite the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel (outside moat). Highlights are lemon grass beef, sun-dried beef and chili crab. See the bar blackboard for daily specials.
• Hong Tauw Inn, Nimmanhaemin Road. 11:00-22:00. Thai food. Inside you might think you are in a clock museum. The front part of the restaurant has a high ceiling with fans, giving it a colonial atmosphere. 80-120 baht for most main dishes.
• Huen Muan Jai, Ratchaphruek Rd, +66 53-404998. 10:00-22:00. Wooden Lanna-style buildings in a very nice garden. They have Northern Thai-style food only.
• Huen Phen, 112 Ratchamanka Rd (Inside moat. Daily, 08:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00. Specialises in Northern Thai food, and is popular with both Thais and foreigners. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will cost less than 100 baht. Portions are small however. This place is featured in Chinese guidebooks, thus in high-season it will be thronged with Chinese making it difficult to get seated without a lengthy wait.
• Mho-O-Cha Seafood Restaurant, +66 53-273008. Daily 11:00-24:00. Terrific restaurant on a prominent corner of the Anusarn Market. It is very popular with Chinese visitors who are quick to spot a good deal. There are some excellent vegetarian choices. Great staff, huge menu.
• Sila Aat. Daily 15:00-24:00. Fresh seafood and a wide selection of Thai and northern/Lanna specialties. Operated by two sisters.

Ghekko Garden Bar and Restaurant, Sridonchai Rd (Opposite the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel (outside moat). Highlights are lemon grass beef, sun-dried beef and chili crab. See the bar blackboard for daily specials.

Hong Tauw Inn, Nimmanhaemin Road. 11:00-22:00. Thai food. Inside you might think you are in a clock museum. The front part of the restaurant has a high ceiling with fans, giving it a colonial atmosphere. 80-120 baht for most main dishes.

Huen Muan Jai, Ratchaphruek Rd, +66 53-404998. 10:00-22:00. Wooden Lanna-style buildings in a very nice garden. They have Northern Thai-style food only.

Huen Phen, 112 Ratchamanka Rd (Inside moat. Daily, 08:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00. Specialises in Northern Thai food, and is popular with both Thais and foreigners. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will cost less than 100 baht. Portions are small however. This place is featured in Chinese guidebooks, thus in high-season it will be thronged with Chinese making it difficult to get seated without a lengthy wait.

Mho-O-Cha Seafood Restaurant, +66 53-273008. Daily 11:00-24:00. Terrific restaurant on a prominent corner of the Anusarn Market. It is very popular with Chinese visitors who are quick to spot a good deal. There are some excellent vegetarian choices. Great staff, huge menu.

Sila Aat. Daily 15:00-24:00. Fresh seafood and a wide selection of Thai and northern/Lanna specialties. Operated by two sisters.

• Galae Garden Restaurant, +66 53-278655. Thai food and grilled specialties, some of them regional, in a delightful outdoor setting.
• Khum Khantoke, 139 Moo 4, Nong Pakrung (In Chiang Mai Business Park behind Big C Extra Hypermarket, Chiang Mai-Lampang super highway, +66 53-304121. Daily 19:00-21:00. Traditional northern Thai cuisine. To get a good seat reservations are recommended. All you can eat, 590 baht.
• Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre, 185/3 Wualai Rd, +66 53-275097. Daily 19:00-21:30. The first commercial khantoke dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best northern Thai food of any of the khantoke establishments. However the seating, show and music are not as good as others.

Galae Garden Restaurant, +66 53-278655. Thai food and grilled specialties, some of them regional, in a delightful outdoor setting.

Khum Khantoke, 139 Moo 4, Nong Pakrung (In Chiang Mai Business Park behind Big C Extra Hypermarket, Chiang Mai-Lampang super highway, +66 53-304121. Daily 19:00-21:00. Traditional northern Thai cuisine. To get a good seat reservations are recommended. All you can eat, 590 baht.

Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre, 185/3 Wualai Rd, +66 53-275097. Daily 19:00-21:30. The first commercial khantoke dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best northern Thai food of any of the khantoke establishments. However the seating, show and music are not as good as others.

Khao Soi Siri Chai, Inthawarorot Rd (behind the Three Kings monument. A street-side restaurant dedicated to the Northern Thai signature dish khao soi and Hainan Chicken Rice. It is not easily missed as a huge sign is placed outside. It is a local favourite, and has also been discovered by foreign visitors. 40 baht.

• Paradise Pizza, 7/2 Ratchawichi Road (Across the street from the U.N. Irish Pubin the old city., +66 53 418 409. 11:00 till late. Authentic New York-style pizza. Slices or whole pies available. Made with fresh ingredients included imported Italian tomatoes. Available toppings: garlic, onion, pineapple, peppers, mozzarella, ricotta, olives, meatballs, bacon, sausage, hamburger, ham, pepperoni, chicken, mushrooms. Calzone also available. Drinks: beer, water and soft drinks. Free Wi-Fi. 2 slices plus a drink for 139 baht.
• Tiny House Homemade Fried Chicken, Sridonchai Rd (In front of Suriwong Book Centre, +65-87-912-7575. A small and new western-style food stand selling Southern-US style fried chicken and chicken burgers. Tasty and cheap. 30-100 baht.

Paradise Pizza, 7/2 Ratchawichi Road (Across the street from the U.N. Irish Pubin the old city., +66 53 418 409. 11:00 till late. Authentic New York-style pizza. Slices or whole pies available. Made with fresh ingredients included imported Italian tomatoes. Available toppings: garlic, onion, pineapple, peppers, mozzarella, ricotta, olives, meatballs, bacon, sausage, hamburger, ham, pepperoni, chicken, mushrooms. Calzone also available. Drinks: beer, water and soft drinks. Free Wi-Fi. 2 slices plus a drink for 139 baht.

Tiny House Homemade Fried Chicken, Sridonchai Rd (In front of Suriwong Book Centre, +65-87-912-7575. A small and new western-style food stand selling Southern-US style fried chicken and chicken burgers. Tasty and cheap. 30-100 baht.

• Amazing Sandwich, 20/2 Huay Kaew Rd. M-Sa 08:00-22:00; Su 08:00-16:00. Choose any of the ingredients on their list and they'll make a sandwich for you how you like it. They also serve breakfasts and have bagels.
• Archers Bar and Restaurant, 133/134 Ratchapakanai Rd (Inside moat, opposite Wat Pan Ping, +66 83-6377621. Closed M. Tu-Su 10:00-late; kitchen closes at 22:00. Some say the baguettes are better than in France, which is nonsense, but they may well be the best in Thailand. Very well-run establishment, with outstanding food, great staff and ambience. Owners, Mark and Sa. Large Leo 85 baht; fried rice 60 baht; Massaman curry 75 baht; pad Thai 60 baht; cappuccino 45 baht; brie/bacon baguette 100 baht.
• Cafe de Siam, +66 53-207258. 06:30-22:00. It's hard to find an early-morning breakfast in Chiang Mai due to the number of tourists on hotel package deals, but this place does. Free Wi-Fi. Three coin-operated Internet computers, 10 baht for 15 minutes. Continental breakfast 100 baht; American breakfast 160 baht.
• Chiangmai Saloon, 30 Ratchawithi Rd (1 location inside the moat, +66 81-9302212. American-style burger and steakhouse. Friendly staff, nice atmosphere, music videos and sports on three 3-m screens, pool tables and free Internet, free popcorn and peanuts, over 50 kinds of margaritas, Chang beer on tap. Is open everyday from breakfast until late.
• Dash! Restaurant & Bar, 38 Moon Muang Soi 2 (Moon Muang is the inside road on the W side of the old city. Take Soi 1 or 2 off Moon Muang and follow it around. You won't miss the place., +66 85 3477554 or +66 53 279230. 10:00-24:00. Possibly the best value in Chiang Mai. Wonderful ambiance, with indoor or outdoor seating. Great food, cocktails and desserts at more than reasonable prices. Cooking classes offered on-site. Also has a 3-bedroom, 2-bath house for rent at 3,000 baht per day. Chicken fried rice 85 baht; Chicken pat Thai 85 baht; hamburger 155 baht; American breakfast 165 baht.
• Duke's Steak House & Pizzeria, Chiang Mai Pavilion, 1st and 2nd Floor, Changklan Rd (Outside moat, opposite Royal Princess Hotel, +66 53-818603. 10:30-24:00. Excellent American-style dishes and desserts: ribs, burgers, pizza, cheesecake, etc. Full bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, children's menu, no loud music or entertainment, just good food. Eat in, take away & call for delivery. The flagship restaurant is at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, south of the Nawarat Bridge, 50 m N of TAT. A third is in the Promenada Shopping Centre.
• La Fourchette, 162/2 Phrapoklao Rd (Inside moat, across from Wat Chedi Luang, +66 89-7585604. M-Sa 17:00-23:00. Authentic French restaurant in the centre of the old city. Large selection of imported meats and wines at affordable prices. Romantic open-air seating area with upstairs art gallery.
• Mong Pearl Cafe, Huay Kaew Rd (From the old city: 100 m after Canal Rd (Hwy 121), on your right. 08:00-20:00. A favourite with Westerners because of the great service, good English, nice aesthetics and delicious food and drinks.
• My Place Lounge, 80 Loi Kroh Rd., +66 085 709 6851. 08:00-16:00. Sports Bar with a full food menu, breakfast (including hash browns), burgers, Buffalo wings, nachos, panini, salads, sandwiches, Thai food, and cheesesteaks. All the major sports are shown here, including UFC, Premier League, NFL, Superbowl, NBA, Formula 1 (F1), AFL (Aussie Rules), NRL, and Rugby. Free pool table, along with free Wifi.
• Norden Restaurant Chiang Mai, 139 Moo 1 Superhighway Chiangmai-Lampang Rd. (On the superhighway before the Promenada Mall, +66 960909769. 11:30-21:00. A modern European restaurant with our roots & inspiration from Scandinavia all cooked from a Swedish chef & owner. Then menu has many steaks, BBQ ribs, Pizza, and Nordic Food. The quality of the food is outstanding without the price tag to go with it. Very reasonably priced.
• O'Malley's Irish Pub, 149-14/15 Changklan Rd (SW corner of Anusarn Market, +66 53-271921. 09:00-02:00. Delicious cocktails and excellent Western and Thai food. Has inside (air conditioned) and outside (smoking) seating. The interior closely resembles an authentic pub. This place does all the small things well: Tabasco, Lea & Perrins on the tables, soap and towels in the toilets, spotlessly clean. Not cheap, but the food is superb and the portions generous. Free Wi-Fi.
• Overstand Coffee & Breakfast, 19/3 Ratchamanka Road Soi 2, Phra Sing, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chang Wat Chiang Mai 50200 (Inside moat, just below Tha Phae Gate, +66 94 626 8311. daily 08:00–15:00. Western breakfasts, local coffee. Bacon and eggs, but also several vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. They also have a branche in Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 5. Latte 80 baht, smashed avocado on sourdough toast with fetta 120 baht.
• Peppermint Cafe, Rachadamnoen Rd, Soi 5 (Inside moat, very near AUA and Wat Pan On, +66 53-279735. 07:00-late. Spotlessly clean and excellent Western/Thai food at great prices. Terrific pizza at 69 baht a huge slice. Friendly, accommodating staff. Free Wi-Fi. English breakfast 145 baht; burger 99 baht.
• Pern's Restaurant, 26/5-6 Huay Keaw Rd (Opposite Shell gas station on the way to Doi Suthep, +66 86-1117766. Tu-Su 17:00-23:00. Serves great Mediterranean-style food. Greece, Turkey, Italy are all represented. Tapas, budget pork and chicken steaks. Bacon cheese steak burger 229 baht.
• The Red Lion English Pub, 123 Loi Kroh Rd (Night Bazaar, just past McDonald's and Burger King., +66 53 818847. 10:00-01:00. Draught Guinness and Heineken, imported Blackthorn Cider and Fuller's London Pride, and Belgian and German beers. Pub favourites including bangers 'n mash, fish 'n chips, steak & kidney pie as well as steaks, pasta and Thai food. Live sports on a HD big screen including Premier League Football, Aussie Rules, Rugby and Formula 1.
• The Salad Concept, Nimmanhaemin Rd Soi 13 (Flagship restaurant at the corner of Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-894455. 11:00-22:00. Order by completing a form which is then handed to the staff. Fast and efficient, and the food is very good. Second location on 5F of Central Festival Mall. Third location on Chaiyapoom Rd, just E of the moat. ~150 baht per person.

Amazing Sandwich, 20/2 Huay Kaew Rd. M-Sa 08:00-22:00; Su 08:00-16:00. Choose any of the ingredients on their list and they'll make a sandwich for you how you like it. They also serve breakfasts and have bagels.

Archers Bar and Restaurant, 133/134 Ratchapakanai Rd (Inside moat, opposite Wat Pan Ping, +66 83-6377621. Closed M. Tu-Su 10:00-late; kitchen closes at 22:00. Some say the baguettes are better than in France, which is nonsense, but they may well be the best in Thailand. Very well-run establishment, with outstanding food, great staff and ambience. Owners, Mark and Sa. Large Leo 85 baht; fried rice 60 baht; Massaman curry 75 baht; pad Thai 60 baht; cappuccino 45 baht; brie/bacon baguette 100 baht.

Cafe de Siam, +66 53-207258. 06:30-22:00. It's hard to find an early-morning breakfast in Chiang Mai due to the number of tourists on hotel package deals, but this place does. Free Wi-Fi. Three coin-operated Internet computers, 10 baht for 15 minutes. Continental breakfast 100 baht; American breakfast 160 baht.

Chiangmai Saloon, 30 Ratchawithi Rd (1 location inside the moat, +66 81-9302212. American-style burger and steakhouse. Friendly staff, nice atmosphere, music videos and sports on three 3-m screens, pool tables and free Internet, free popcorn and peanuts, over 50 kinds of margaritas, Chang beer on tap. Is open everyday from breakfast until late.

Dash! Restaurant & Bar, 38 Moon Muang Soi 2 (Moon Muang is the inside road on the W side of the old city. Take Soi 1 or 2 off Moon Muang and follow it around. You won't miss the place., +66 85 3477554 or +66 53 279230. 10:00-24:00. Possibly the best value in Chiang Mai. Wonderful ambiance, with indoor or outdoor seating. Great food, cocktails and desserts at more than reasonable prices. Cooking classes offered on-site. Also has a 3-bedroom, 2-bath house for rent at 3,000 baht per day. Chicken fried rice 85 baht; Chicken pat Thai 85 baht; hamburger 155 baht; American breakfast 165 baht.

Duke's Steak House & Pizzeria, Chiang Mai Pavilion, 1st and 2nd Floor, Changklan Rd (Outside moat, opposite Royal Princess Hotel, +66 53-818603. 10:30-24:00. Excellent American-style dishes and desserts: ribs, burgers, pizza, cheesecake, etc. Full bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, children's menu, no loud music or entertainment, just good food. Eat in, take away & call for delivery. The flagship restaurant is at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, south of the Nawarat Bridge, 50 m N of TAT. A third is in the Promenada Shopping Centre.

La Fourchette, 162/2 Phrapoklao Rd (Inside moat, across from Wat Chedi Luang, +66 89-7585604. M-Sa 17:00-23:00. Authentic French restaurant in the centre of the old city. Large selection of imported meats and wines at affordable prices. Romantic open-air seating area with upstairs art gallery.

Mong Pearl Cafe, Huay Kaew Rd (From the old city: 100 m after Canal Rd (Hwy 121), on your right. 08:00-20:00. A favourite with Westerners because of the great service, good English, nice aesthetics and delicious food and drinks.

My Place Lounge, 80 Loi Kroh Rd., +66 085 709 6851. 08:00-16:00. Sports Bar with a full food menu, breakfast (including hash browns), burgers, Buffalo wings, nachos, panini, salads, sandwiches, Thai food, and cheesesteaks. All the major sports are shown here, including UFC, Premier League, NFL, Superbowl, NBA, Formula 1 (F1), AFL (Aussie Rules), NRL, and Rugby. Free pool table, along with free Wifi.

Norden Restaurant Chiang Mai, 139 Moo 1 Superhighway Chiangmai-Lampang Rd. (On the superhighway before the Promenada Mall, +66 960909769. 11:30-21:00. A modern European restaurant with our roots & inspiration from Scandinavia all cooked from a Swedish chef & owner. Then menu has many steaks, BBQ ribs, Pizza, and Nordic Food. The quality of the food is outstanding without the price tag to go with it. Very reasonably priced.

O'Malley's Irish Pub, 149-14/15 Changklan Rd (SW corner of Anusarn Market, +66 53-271921. 09:00-02:00. Delicious cocktails and excellent Western and Thai food. Has inside (air conditioned) and outside (smoking) seating. The interior closely resembles an authentic pub. This place does all the small things well: Tabasco, Lea & Perrins on the tables, soap and towels in the toilets, spotlessly clean. Not cheap, but the food is superb and the portions generous. Free Wi-Fi.

Overstand Coffee & Breakfast, 19/3 Ratchamanka Road Soi 2, Phra Sing, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chang Wat Chiang Mai 50200 (Inside moat, just below Tha Phae Gate, +66 94 626 8311. daily 08:00–15:00. Western breakfasts, local coffee. Bacon and eggs, but also several vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. They also have a branche in Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 5. Latte 80 baht, smashed avocado on sourdough toast with fetta 120 baht.

Peppermint Cafe, Rachadamnoen Rd, Soi 5 (Inside moat, very near AUA and Wat Pan On, +66 53-279735. 07:00-late. Spotlessly clean and excellent Western/Thai food at great prices. Terrific pizza at 69 baht a huge slice. Friendly, accommodating staff. Free Wi-Fi. English breakfast 145 baht; burger 99 baht.

Pern's Restaurant, 26/5-6 Huay Keaw Rd (Opposite Shell gas station on the way to Doi Suthep, +66 86-1117766. Tu-Su 17:00-23:00. Serves great Mediterranean-style food. Greece, Turkey, Italy are all represented. Tapas, budget pork and chicken steaks. Bacon cheese steak burger 229 baht.

The Red Lion English Pub, 123 Loi Kroh Rd (Night Bazaar, just past McDonald's and Burger King., +66 53 818847. 10:00-01:00. Draught Guinness and Heineken, imported Blackthorn Cider and Fuller's London Pride, and Belgian and German beers. Pub favourites including bangers 'n mash, fish 'n chips, steak & kidney pie as well as steaks, pasta and Thai food. Live sports on a HD big screen including Premier League Football, Aussie Rules, Rugby and Formula 1.

The Salad Concept, Nimmanhaemin Rd Soi 13 (Flagship restaurant at the corner of Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-894455. 11:00-22:00. Order by completing a form which is then handed to the staff. Fast and efficient, and the food is very good. Second location on 5F of Central Festival Mall. Third location on Chaiyapoom Rd, just E of the moat. ~150 baht per person.

• Arcobaleno Italian Restaurant, 60 Keaw Nawarat Rd, Soi 1 (Across from Wat Ket Karam; first soi off of Keaw Nawarat Rd, +66 53-306254. Daily 11:00-14:00, 17:30-22:00. Open for lunch and dinner with a range of traditional Italian soup, pasta, antipasti, meat and vegetarian dishes. Homemade ice cream, 35 baht per serving. Vegetarian pastas 130-160 baht.
• The House, 199 Moon Muang Rd, +66 53-419011. 10:00-23:00. Old 1930s colonial style house in the city centre. Western and Thai food, Pacific Rim and fusion. Free Wi-Fi. Shop with unusual houseware items on the premises. Grilled fillet steak, 495 baht; hamburger, 250 baht.
• Piccola Roma Palace Italian Restaurant, 144 Charoen Prathet Rd (Opposite Chedi Hotel, corner of Charoen Prathet Rd & Sri Donchai Rd, +66 53-820297-8. Open lunch & dinner amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents for over 15 years. Menu and recipes on website. Reservations recommended. Call for free transportation.

Arcobaleno Italian Restaurant, 60 Keaw Nawarat Rd, Soi 1 (Across from Wat Ket Karam; first soi off of Keaw Nawarat Rd, +66 53-306254. Daily 11:00-14:00, 17:30-22:00. Open for lunch and dinner with a range of traditional Italian soup, pasta, antipasti, meat and vegetarian dishes. Homemade ice cream, 35 baht per serving. Vegetarian pastas 130-160 baht.

The House, 199 Moon Muang Rd, +66 53-419011. 10:00-23:00. Old 1930s colonial style house in the city centre. Western and Thai food, Pacific Rim and fusion. Free Wi-Fi. Shop with unusual houseware items on the premises. Grilled fillet steak, 495 baht; hamburger, 250 baht.

Piccola Roma Palace Italian Restaurant, 144 Charoen Prathet Rd (Opposite Chedi Hotel, corner of Charoen Prathet Rd & Sri Donchai Rd, +66 53-820297-8. Open lunch & dinner amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents for over 15 years. Menu and recipes on website. Reservations recommended. Call for free transportation.

• The Swan, 48 Chaiyapoom Rd (Just outside the moat on the east side, two doors down from Mike's Hamburgers, +66 81-0992777. 12:00-23:00. Free Wi-Fi. Smoking and non-smoking areas. Charming restaurant with a tiny front but a cavernous interior. Good food at good prices. Those unfamiliar with Burmese food are in for a treat. Tea leaf salad for 69 baht; beef curry for 120 baht.

The Swan, 48 Chaiyapoom Rd (Just outside the moat on the east side, two doors down from Mike's Hamburgers, +66 81-0992777. 12:00-23:00. Free Wi-Fi. Smoking and non-smoking areas. Charming restaurant with a tiny front but a cavernous interior. Good food at good prices. Those unfamiliar with Burmese food are in for a treat. Tea leaf salad for 69 baht; beef curry for 120 baht.

• Fuji, Central Airport Plaza. While perhaps not a special restaurant in that it is not unique to Chiang Mai (it's actually a large chain), for those seeking reasonably-priced Japanese food, Fuji is a must. Expect to pay 120 baht and up for each dish (for instance, a single sushi roll), however there are several spectacular set meals that offer superb value, e.g., the Fuji Sashimi Set which can easily fill up a sushi lover for 190 baht. From 120 baht.
• Gigantea, 300 Chang Moi Rd, +66 53-233464. Daily 11:00-14:00, 17:00-22:00. Owned and managed by a cute Japanese-Thai husband and wife team, this restaurant is known as the best Japanese restaurant among Japanese residents in Chiang Mai. Although the menu is limited, ingredients are always fresh, cooking and presentation are excellent. Lunch is best value, with set meals around 140-200 baht.
• Kanson Sushi Bar, Kotchasan Rd, Soi 1. A little hidden in a side street, but visible from the main road near Tha Phae Gate. Delicious and very good value (250 baht will fill you).
• Sushi Box Chiang Mai, 16/1 Moo 2, Huay Kaew Rd (Between the first ring road/Nimman and the Canal Road, at The Harbour, an open air mall, +66 81-5552103. Reasonably priced sushi, sashimi, and standard sushi bar Japanese meals. This is the first Sushi Box in Chiang Mai, there are five in Phuket. Mainly Thai crowd, moderately priced, lounge upstairs, great for people watching. Open 11:00-23:00. Can get busy at night.

Fuji, Central Airport Plaza. While perhaps not a special restaurant in that it is not unique to Chiang Mai (it's actually a large chain), for those seeking reasonably-priced Japanese food, Fuji is a must. Expect to pay 120 baht and up for each dish (for instance, a single sushi roll), however there are several spectacular set meals that offer superb value, e.g., the Fuji Sashimi Set which can easily fill up a sushi lover for 190 baht. From 120 baht.

Gigantea, 300 Chang Moi Rd, +66 53-233464. Daily 11:00-14:00, 17:00-22:00. Owned and managed by a cute Japanese-Thai husband and wife team, this restaurant is known as the best Japanese restaurant among Japanese residents in Chiang Mai. Although the menu is limited, ingredients are always fresh, cooking and presentation are excellent. Lunch is best value, with set meals around 140-200 baht.

Kanson Sushi Bar, Kotchasan Rd, Soi 1. A little hidden in a side street, but visible from the main road near Tha Phae Gate. Delicious and very good value (250 baht will fill you).

Sushi Box Chiang Mai, 16/1 Moo 2, Huay Kaew Rd (Between the first ring road/Nimman and the Canal Road, at The Harbour, an open air mall, +66 81-5552103. Reasonably priced sushi, sashimi, and standard sushi bar Japanese meals. This is the first Sushi Box in Chiang Mai, there are five in Phuket. Mainly Thai crowd, moderately priced, lounge upstairs, great for people watching. Open 11:00-23:00. Can get busy at night.

• Gogi Jib Stone Grill Barbecue, 29/3 Kotchasarn Rd (Just outside Tha Phae Gate, +66 84-4541943. 12:00-23:00. Modern and friendly Korean barbecue spot offering high quality beef and pork as well as other Korean traditional dishes. Great artwork on the colourful walls and groovy tunes floating over the conversations. The staff are very attentive and the owners can give a quick Korean lesson. 295 baht and up includes unlimited side dishes.

Gogi Jib Stone Grill Barbecue, 29/3 Kotchasarn Rd (Just outside Tha Phae Gate, +66 84-4541943. 12:00-23:00. Modern and friendly Korean barbecue spot offering high quality beef and pork as well as other Korean traditional dishes. Great artwork on the colourful walls and groovy tunes floating over the conversations. The staff are very attentive and the owners can give a quick Korean lesson. 295 baht and up includes unlimited side dishes.

It can be hard to find strictly vegetarian food in Chiang Mai, as fish and oyster sauce are used frequently, and the local Buddhist monks themselves often eat fish. Thus, asking for your dish to be prepared "like the monks", which works in other places, does not get the same results in Chiang Mai. There are a few completely vegetarian options.

• Anchan, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi Hillside 3 (Opposite Soi 13, about 50 m off of Nimmanhaemin, +66 83-5811689. Excellent vegetarian food, perhaps the best in Chiang Mai.
• Blue Diamond, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 9. M-Sa 08:00-21:00. Thai and Western, huge selection of items for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Great salads, fruits, fruit juices, noodle dishes, bakery, good breads.
• Gulf Restaurant, Anusarn Market (In a corner inside Anusarn Mkt, next to the pharmacy. open late. Lebanese owner/chef caters to middle eastern food lovers. Large portions of delicious tabbouleh, tahini salads and humus alongside fresh falafel and flat bread. Shisha/nargila/water pipes are available as well as mint tea.
• ImmAim/Pun Pun, Santhitam Rd (Near the YMCA, at the south end of Santhitam Rd, follow signs to. A mix of Thai and other styles, run by laconic locals linked to a local farm. The falafel is lovely, but different, and the salsa it comes with is delicious. Pasta can be quite sweet, and the biscuits are good.
• Ming Kwan Vegetarian Buffet, Ratchadamnoen Rd (Opposite the police station. days only. A different range of Thai vegan dishes from the norm. A focus on faux-meats, the veggie sausage is great, and the faux-fish in curry sauce is good. Of course, bamboo shoot stir fry, noodle soups, etc., means there's lots to try. They cook during the day, so other dishes often appear from the kitchen.
• No Name Buddhist Buffet, Phrapokkloa Rd (Yellow fronted shop, 80 m N of Chiang Mai Gate (south side) on the right next to the Kodak shop. Daily 06:00-16:00. Delicious vegan buffet at low prices. There are a few great dishes: the tofu, mushroom, and lemon grass wrapped in banana leaves is addictive; the het-hom (shitake) and other protein/gluten goodies are lovely; the steaming noodle soup is a great addition to a meal if you've arrived late and want to warm up the buffet dishes. The earlier the better as when dishes run out, they aren't remade. Also, you can buy some vegan supplies.
• Pun Pun Vegetarian Restaurant, Wat Suan Dok Temple, Suthep Rd (Inside the temple compound behind the monk chat building in an outdoor courtyard with a large bodhi tree and tables with umbrellas., +66 86-101850. 09:00-15:00, closed W. Thai vegetarian with organic ingredients from local farmers and many vegan-friendly options. Run by a local self-reliance and seed-saving centre outside the city.
• Taste from Heaven, +66 53-208803. Daily 08:30-22:00. Thai vegetarian with vegan options. Owned by a friendly English expat, this restaurant offers curries and noodle dishes in a comfortable and clean setting, with both indoor and garden seating.
• Vegan Heaven, 44/6 Loi Kroh Rd (next to the Britannia Hotel, +66 52 001-447. 9AM-10PM daily. A 100% vegan restaurant in the old city of Chiang Mai. It has a wide variety of meals: the usual Thai dishes in vegan, such as khao soi, tom yam, tom kha and pad see ew, but also breakfast meals, sandwiches and even vegan hot dogs and burgers. 150 baht.

Anchan, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi Hillside 3 (Opposite Soi 13, about 50 m off of Nimmanhaemin, +66 83-5811689. Excellent vegetarian food, perhaps the best in Chiang Mai.

Blue Diamond, Moon Muang Rd, Soi 9. M-Sa 08:00-21:00. Thai and Western, huge selection of items for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Great salads, fruits, fruit juices, noodle dishes, bakery, good breads.

Gulf Restaurant, Anusarn Market (In a corner inside Anusarn Mkt, next to the pharmacy. open late. Lebanese owner/chef caters to middle eastern food lovers. Large portions of delicious tabbouleh, tahini salads and humus alongside fresh falafel and flat bread. Shisha/nargila/water pipes are available as well as mint tea.

ImmAim/Pun Pun, Santhitam Rd (Near the YMCA, at the south end of Santhitam Rd, follow signs to. A mix of Thai and other styles, run by laconic locals linked to a local farm. The falafel is lovely, but different, and the salsa it comes with is delicious. Pasta can be quite sweet, and the biscuits are good.

Ming Kwan Vegetarian Buffet, Ratchadamnoen Rd (Opposite the police station. days only. A different range of Thai vegan dishes from the norm. A focus on faux-meats, the veggie sausage is great, and the faux-fish in curry sauce is good. Of course, bamboo shoot stir fry, noodle soups, etc., means there's lots to try. They cook during the day, so other dishes often appear from the kitchen.

No Name Buddhist Buffet, Phrapokkloa Rd (Yellow fronted shop, 80 m N of Chiang Mai Gate (south side) on the right next to the Kodak shop. Daily 06:00-16:00. Delicious vegan buffet at low prices. There are a few great dishes: the tofu, mushroom, and lemon grass wrapped in banana leaves is addictive; the het-hom (shitake) and other protein/gluten goodies are lovely; the steaming noodle soup is a great addition to a meal if you've arrived late and want to warm up the buffet dishes. The earlier the better as when dishes run out, they aren't remade. Also, you can buy some vegan supplies.

Pun Pun Vegetarian Restaurant, Wat Suan Dok Temple, Suthep Rd (Inside the temple compound behind the monk chat building in an outdoor courtyard with a large bodhi tree and tables with umbrellas., +66 86-101850. 09:00-15:00, closed W. Thai vegetarian with organic ingredients from local farmers and many vegan-friendly options. Run by a local self-reliance and seed-saving centre outside the city.

Taste from Heaven, +66 53-208803. Daily 08:30-22:00. Thai vegetarian with vegan options. Owned by a friendly English expat, this restaurant offers curries and noodle dishes in a comfortable and clean setting, with both indoor and garden seating.

Vegan Heaven, 44/6 Loi Kroh Rd (next to the Britannia Hotel, +66 52 001-447. 9AM-10PM daily. A 100% vegan restaurant in the old city of Chiang Mai. It has a wide variety of meals: the usual Thai dishes in vegan, such as khao soi, tom yam, tom kha and pad see ew, but also breakfast meals, sandwiches and even vegan hot dogs and burgers. 150 baht.

• V T Namneung, 49/9 Lamphun Rd (On the east bank of the Ping River, just north of the Iron Bridge, just south of the Nawarat Bridge, +66 53-266111. Handsome 2-storey restaurant with air-con upstairs. Serves what amounts to Vietnamese tapas: spring rolls, salted pork ribs, nem; all with lots of leafy greens. Serve beer, but the fresh fruit juices are better. Do very little to cater to visitors as most everything is in Thai including signs and menus. At the entry have a shop that offers many of their products packaged for take-away. The website lists their catering offerings.

V T Namneung, 49/9 Lamphun Rd (On the east bank of the Ping River, just north of the Iron Bridge, just south of the Nawarat Bridge, +66 53-266111. Handsome 2-storey restaurant with air-con upstairs. Serves what amounts to Vietnamese tapas: spring rolls, salted pork ribs, nem; all with lots of leafy greens. Serve beer, but the fresh fruit juices are better. Do very little to cater to visitors as most everything is in Thai including signs and menus. At the entry have a shop that offers many of their products packaged for take-away. The website lists their catering offerings.

Chiang Mai's nightlife is the most happening in the north, although still a far cry from Bangkok's hot spots. The busiest night life zones are near Tha Phae Gate, Loi Kroh Rd and along Charoen Rat Rd on the east bank of the Ping River.

Bars close at midnight in Chiang Mai. The police are strict about this.

Many, but by no means all, of Chiang Mai's tourist-oriented bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคระห์), outside the southeast quadrant of the old city. In addition to the street bars, the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex (CMEC) (the CMEC sign is not prominent. Much more so is a lighted sign in front, Loikroh Boxing Stadium) can be found at the Night Bazaar-end of Loi Kroh. Here you will find around 30 bars ranging from sports bars that feature big screens to watch sports and play pool, to Pattaya-style girlie "beer bars", to even bars staffed exclusively by kathoeys (ladyboys). The complex also features a muay Thai boxing ring that has exhibition bouts for free or a voluntary donation, and on some nights (varies) real competitive boxing that requires an entrance fee unless your bar has provided you with complimentary viewing. And for extra fun, the occasional Westerner climbs into the ring, usually with hilarious results.

Also take a stroll along Moon Muang Road and its side Sois 1 and 2. Here you can find small expat hangouts and sports bars. Most have pool tables and hostesses, along with music videos or various TV sport programmes. Be aware that despite their charm and friendliness, the pressure to purchase lady drinks can result in a very surprising tab at the end of the night.

• Ben Cocktail Bar, 71/1-2 Loi Kroh Rd (Across from My Place Lounge; cater-corner across the street northwest from the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex. Small sign. Look for it and you will be rewarded, +66 89-9502762. 17:00-last man standing. A tiny, hole-in-the-wall (~15 seat) cocktail bar that just may serve the best cocktails in Chiang Mai. Certainly the best price/performance. Run by Ben, an irrepressible, animal-loving, lovely female and her partner, Keng. She is especially proud of her mojitos, but all the 270 cocktails on offer are delicious. The conversation is good too as she speaks excellent English. Free Wi-Fi. Great place to people watch. Chang beer 60 baht; cocktails 120 baht.
• Blue Bat, 46,48 Charoenprathet Rd (Between the Night Bazaar and the river. On the 21st floor of the hotel, this is as high as you can go in Chiang Mai to have a drink. Good views all round. Serves full range of cocktails, also Thai and Western food. Take the lift to the 20th floor, then hike up a not-very-inviting staircase to the open rooftop. It can't compare with the fabulous rooftop bars of Bangkok, but it's the best Chiang Mai has to offer.
• Chiang Mai Cabaret Show. Daily show, 21:30-22:30. A nightly revue, dancing to Western tunes by ladyboys in lavish costumes. The one hour show is tame and family-friendly, with children frequently in the audience. Lots of dancing to ABBA tunes and extravagant costumes, with no nudity. The show's length is perfect and the price is surprising affordable. Good fun. Happy Hour precedes the show, 19:30-20:30, and also follows the show. 200 baht cover, includes one drink.
• Dragonfly Bar, 8/1 Loi Kroh Rd. One of the smaller bars at the top of Loi Kroh but also one of the most cosy. What really make this place stand out is the friendly staff and that this bar has two floors so you can get away from the bustle of street level and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere from the balcony.
• Number 1 Bistro/Cafe, 2 Loi Kroh, Soi 1 (As you go down Loi Kroh, take Soi 1 to the right, +66 810342417. 15:00-24:00. Great expat bar. Free Wi-Fi with electrical outlets spaced at one metre intervals under the bar. They specialise in Belgian beer as well as having eight draught beers on tap, including domestic and Guinness. Excellent kitchen serving Thai and farang food, although the latter can be pricy: pad Thai is 80 baht, while the cheeseburger is expensive at 250 baht (July 2015). Number 1 is a refuge in Chiang Mai's red light district as it has no bar girls hassling you for a drink. And it's one of the few places on Loi Kroh where you can comfortably take a date. Two excellent pool tables, 20 baht per game (July 2015). Small Leo beer 80 baht.

Ben Cocktail Bar, 71/1-2 Loi Kroh Rd (Across from My Place Lounge; cater-corner across the street northwest from the Chiang Mai Entertainment Complex. Small sign. Look for it and you will be rewarded, +66 89-9502762. 17:00-last man standing. A tiny, hole-in-the-wall (~15 seat) cocktail bar that just may serve the best cocktails in Chiang Mai. Certainly the best price/performance. Run by Ben, an irrepressible, animal-loving, lovely female and her partner, Keng. She is especially proud of her mojitos, but all the 270 cocktails on offer are delicious. The conversation is good too as she speaks excellent English. Free Wi-Fi. Great place to people watch. Chang beer 60 baht; cocktails 120 baht.

Blue Bat, 46,48 Charoenprathet Rd (Between the Night Bazaar and the river. On the 21st floor of the hotel, this is as high as you can go in Chiang Mai to have a drink. Good views all round. Serves full range of cocktails, also Thai and Western food. Take the lift to the 20th floor, then hike up a not-very-inviting staircase to the open rooftop. It can't compare with the fabulous rooftop bars of Bangkok, but it's the best Chiang Mai has to offer.

Chiang Mai Cabaret Show. Daily show, 21:30-22:30. A nightly revue, dancing to Western tunes by ladyboys in lavish costumes. The one hour show is tame and family-friendly, with children frequently in the audience. Lots of dancing to ABBA tunes and extravagant costumes, with no nudity. The show's length is perfect and the price is surprising affordable. Good fun. Happy Hour precedes the show, 19:30-20:30, and also follows the show. 200 baht cover, includes one drink.

Dragonfly Bar, 8/1 Loi Kroh Rd. One of the smaller bars at the top of Loi Kroh but also one of the most cosy. What really make this place stand out is the friendly staff and that this bar has two floors so you can get away from the bustle of street level and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere from the balcony.

Number 1 Bistro/Cafe, 2 Loi Kroh, Soi 1 (As you go down Loi Kroh, take Soi 1 to the right, +66 810342417. 15:00-24:00. Great expat bar. Free Wi-Fi with electrical outlets spaced at one metre intervals under the bar. They specialise in Belgian beer as well as having eight draught beers on tap, including domestic and Guinness. Excellent kitchen serving Thai and farang food, although the latter can be pricy: pad Thai is 80 baht, while the cheeseburger is expensive at 250 baht (July 2015). Number 1 is a refuge in Chiang Mai's red light district as it has no bar girls hassling you for a drink. And it's one of the few places on Loi Kroh where you can comfortably take a date. Two excellent pool tables, 20 baht per game (July 2015). Small Leo beer 80 baht.

Northwest of the city centre, the area around Nimmanhaemin Rd is a popular hangout for younger Thais, perhaps due to its proximity to Chiang Mai University ("maw chaw"). The pubs tend to straddle a fine line between bar, restaurant and nightclub, and feature loud music interspersed with live bands fronted by musicians who are most likely hitting the books in the daytime. Tourists looking for something racier are better off staying in the east side of the city. Little English is spoken in this part of the city. Little doesn't mean none, however, and the staff of many bars, being students, still can understand what do you want, or even sometimes can speak English reasonably well.

• Mo'C Mo'L, Huay Kaew Rd. Pub and restaurant near Chiang Mai University, there are many zones in the restaurant: coffee shop, dining outdoors near the small pond, dining indoors with live music.
• The Pub, 189 Huay Kaew Rd (Near Amari Rincome Hotel, +66 53-211550. 07:00-23:00. Long-established English-style pub, has had a makeover and extended the bar and the restaurant, but kept its charm. Great selection of food and drinks, including roast dinners on Sundays. Has an outside area where you can sit and enjoy the tranquillity of a tropical garden, and has bungalows for those wishing to linger longer. Bungalows from 800 baht.
• Warm Up Bar. This chain bar/restaurant/club has several venues in Thailand. The venue in Chiang Mai is a lot less touristy and the dance hall packed to the brim with Thai students.

Mo'C Mo'L, Huay Kaew Rd. Pub and restaurant near Chiang Mai University, there are many zones in the restaurant: coffee shop, dining outdoors near the small pond, dining indoors with live music.

The Pub, 189 Huay Kaew Rd (Near Amari Rincome Hotel, +66 53-211550. 07:00-23:00. Long-established English-style pub, has had a makeover and extended the bar and the restaurant, but kept its charm. Great selection of food and drinks, including roast dinners on Sundays. Has an outside area where you can sit and enjoy the tranquillity of a tropical garden, and has bungalows for those wishing to linger longer. Bungalows from 800 baht.

Warm Up Bar. This chain bar/restaurant/club has several venues in Thailand. The venue in Chiang Mai is a lot less touristy and the dance hall packed to the brim with Thai students.

• Café Souvannaphoum, 20/1 Ratchamanka Rd (Near Moon Muang, next to Dada Kafe, +66 53-903781. M-Sa 17:00-01:00. A decent wine bar with comfortable seating and relaxing music, a great escape from the busy street scene.
• Half Moon Pub, Soi 2 Moon Muang (50 m into Soi 2 from the moat, +66 85-3205023. 10:00-late. Sports bar with many regulars and tourists. Darts and pool area, big TV, really nice international cuisine, especially the burgers, but also good Thai and Indian dishes. Excellent (can be loud) music, friendly atmosphere and beautiful women.
• The Writers Club, 141/3 Ratchadamnoen Rd (about 600 m into the old city from Tha Phae Gate., +66 53-814187, +66 53-814187. An old fashioned bar and restaurant purportedly for SE Asia's community of authors, journalists and screenwriters, though everyone's welcome. A good, informal source of information about SE Asia. This is where the some of those writing guidebooks gather.
• Zoe in Yellow, 40/12 Ratchawithi Rd (Inside the moat. Very large indoor/outdoor bar and club with a dance floor, live music or DJ, including lots of outdoor seating and multiple bars. If you're looking to party with foreigners in Chiang Mai, this is the place to be. Closes exactly at midnight except on special occasions, such as New Year or Songkran.

Café Souvannaphoum, 20/1 Ratchamanka Rd (Near Moon Muang, next to Dada Kafe, +66 53-903781. M-Sa 17:00-01:00. A decent wine bar with comfortable seating and relaxing music, a great escape from the busy street scene.

Half Moon Pub, Soi 2 Moon Muang (50 m into Soi 2 from the moat, +66 85-3205023. 10:00-late. Sports bar with many regulars and tourists. Darts and pool area, big TV, really nice international cuisine, especially the burgers, but also good Thai and Indian dishes. Excellent (can be loud) music, friendly atmosphere and beautiful women.

The Writers Club, 141/3 Ratchadamnoen Rd (about 600 m into the old city from Tha Phae Gate., +66 53-814187, +66 53-814187. An old fashioned bar and restaurant purportedly for SE Asia's community of authors, journalists and screenwriters, though everyone's welcome. A good, informal source of information about SE Asia. This is where the some of those writing guidebooks gather.

Zoe in Yellow, 40/12 Ratchawithi Rd (Inside the moat. Very large indoor/outdoor bar and club with a dance floor, live music or DJ, including lots of outdoor seating and multiple bars. If you're looking to party with foreigners in Chiang Mai, this is the place to be. Closes exactly at midnight except on special occasions, such as New Year or Songkran.

• Akha Ama, 9/1 Mata Apartment, Hussadhisewee Rd, Soi 3 (Santitham area. 08:00-20:00, closed W.
• Cool Muang, Moon Muang Road 81, +66 8 9756 4321. Using 100% Thai Arabica coffee beans.
• La Fattoria, 175/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd (Inside moat, near Wat Phra Sing. 08:00-20:00. At this location they roast the coffee for their outlets.
• Happy Espresso, Thongkaw Rd (In the Santitham area.
• J. Ju Coffee, 52 Ratchamanka Rd. Run by "Oil", this little place has excellent espresso-based drinks, free Wi-Fi, or ten minutes on the computer with your coffee. Very modern design; seating in the front is open-air while the back is air conditioned. Oil herself speaks excellent English and is happy to give you the low-down.
• Pacamara, Ratchadamnoen Rd (Inside moat, near Wat Chedi Luang. 07:00-19:00.
• Ponganes, 133/5 Ratchapakinai Rd, +66 8 7727 2980, +66 52 089 569. Th-Tu 08:30-16:30, closed W.
• Ristr8to, 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd (Between Soi 3 and Soi 5. 08:00-23:00. A trendy art cafe featuring an award-winning barista (world champion latte art 2017), choices of single-origin beans and a varied drink menu. Very friendly atmosphere at much higher standard than is normally seen in Thailand. 89 baht for a doppio ristretto.
• Sky Café, +66 86 587 4575. Nice situation on a busy road with across that road a pond where often horses are bathed around 11:00. Espresso is brewed very well, using good coffee beans. 30 baht for an espresso.
• Starbucks. Wi-Fi is free after registration. Drink prices much higher than the other coffee places..
• Sunisa's Coffee & Bistro, 6/1 Kotchasarn Lane 1 alley (Just off the east side of the moat, just north of the entrance to Soi Loi Kroh, +66 80 561 4519. Daily, 09:00-19:00. Cute, gemütlich little place run by Sunisa (Thai) and her Chilean/Canadian partner. Good people with good coffee and other drinks. One of CM's lowest-priced Western breakfasts: two eggs, ham, sausage, toast, fruit on the side for 149 baht. Eggs Benedict and omelettes on the menu as well, up to 200 baht. Standard breakfast, 149 baht.
• Wawee Coffee, Ratchadamnoen Rd (At Kad Klang Wiang. Looks much like a Starbucks. Nice mugs if you drink it there. Several other locations in and around Chiang Mai. Inside is well air-conditioned, outside is under a canopy (they mist water in the heat of the afternoon). The staff pride themselves on their decorative drinks (look for the panda-topped latte). Internet available for small fee.

Akha Ama, 9/1 Mata Apartment, Hussadhisewee Rd, Soi 3 (Santitham area. 08:00-20:00, closed W.

Cool Muang, Moon Muang Road 81, +66 8 9756 4321. Using 100% Thai Arabica coffee beans.

La Fattoria, 175/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd (Inside moat, near Wat Phra Sing. 08:00-20:00. At this location they roast the coffee for their outlets.

Happy Espresso, Thongkaw Rd (In the Santitham area.

J. Ju Coffee, 52 Ratchamanka Rd. Run by "Oil", this little place has excellent espresso-based drinks, free Wi-Fi, or ten minutes on the computer with your coffee. Very modern design; seating in the front is open-air while the back is air conditioned. Oil herself speaks excellent English and is happy to give you the low-down.

Pacamara, Ratchadamnoen Rd (Inside moat, near Wat Chedi Luang. 07:00-19:00.

Ponganes, 133/5 Ratchapakinai Rd, +66 8 7727 2980, +66 52 089 569. Th-Tu 08:30-16:30, closed W.

Ristr8to, 15/3 Nimmanhaemin Rd (Between Soi 3 and Soi 5. 08:00-23:00. A trendy art cafe featuring an award-winning barista (world champion latte art 2017), choices of single-origin beans and a varied drink menu. Very friendly atmosphere at much higher standard than is normally seen in Thailand. 89 baht for a doppio ristretto.

Sky Café, +66 86 587 4575. Nice situation on a busy road with across that road a pond where often horses are bathed around 11:00. Espresso is brewed very well, using good coffee beans. 30 baht for an espresso.

Starbucks. Wi-Fi is free after registration. Drink prices much higher than the other coffee places..

Sunisa's Coffee & Bistro, 6/1 Kotchasarn Lane 1 alley (Just off the east side of the moat, just north of the entrance to Soi Loi Kroh, +66 80 561 4519. Daily, 09:00-19:00. Cute, gemütlich little place run by Sunisa (Thai) and her Chilean/Canadian partner. Good people with good coffee and other drinks. One of CM's lowest-priced Western breakfasts: two eggs, ham, sausage, toast, fruit on the side for 149 baht. Eggs Benedict and omelettes on the menu as well, up to 200 baht. Standard breakfast, 149 baht.

Wawee Coffee, Ratchadamnoen Rd (At Kad Klang Wiang. Looks much like a Starbucks. Nice mugs if you drink it there. Several other locations in and around Chiang Mai. Inside is well air-conditioned, outside is under a canopy (they mist water in the heat of the afternoon). The staff pride themselves on their decorative drinks (look for the panda-topped latte). Internet available for small fee.

• Since 2015 Chareon Prathet Soi 6 at Chiang Mai Night Bazaar has become home to many gay bars and is now known locally as gay soi 6.

  * Jacky Bar.

  * Orion Bar.

  * Pandee Bar.

  * Ram bar. Daily shows.

  * Secrets Bar.

• In the Santitham area, NW from the Old Town:

  * Black door, Morakot Rd (about 80 meters from Santitham Rd. Neighborhood pub, mixed straight and gay, with international and local visitors.

  * ZESTpetit. The latest (March 2019) addition to the gay scene.

Since 2015 Chareon Prathet Soi 6 at Chiang Mai Night Bazaar has become home to many gay bars and is now known locally as gay soi 6.

* Jacky Bar.

* Orion Bar.

* Pandee Bar.

* Ram bar. Daily shows.

* Secrets Bar.

In the Santitham area, NW from the Old Town:

* Black door, Morakot Rd (about 80 meters from Santitham Rd. Neighborhood pub, mixed straight and gay, with international and local visitors.

* ZESTpetit. The latest (March 2019) addition to the gay scene.

The area along the east bank of the Mae Ping River on Charoen Rat Rd is famous for jazz, rock, pop, Thai, and country and Western live music, along with restaurants serving Thai, Western and Chinese food. Coming from the centre of the city, just walk from the Night Bazaar across the Nawarat Bridge, from where all the restaurants can be seen along the river on the left.

Most bands in Chiang Mai play for about an hour, and then move on to do the same at another restaurant or pub, so don't be surprised to see the same band if you move venues.

• Boy Blues Bar. 19:00-01:00. The owner, "Boy", plays great blues guitar and is a nephew of Chiang Mai legend "Took", of the now defunct Brasserie. Monday night is jamming night and some great visiting musicians have made this often memorable. Bangkok blues legend, Chai (of Chai's Blues Bar fame), often joins in. Well worth a visit.
• The Bridge Bar, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 11, +66 81-5950678. Till 01:00. Live music every night, except Monday: Brit pop, rock, Thai. Mostly Thais go to this bar but you will as well see some expats, ages: 22-32. Service is excellent and if you happen to go there by yourself, for sure someone will come up to talk to you. The menu includes delicious cocktails: "Mango Kiss", "Velvet"! Cheap beer & Sangsom (Thai rum) as well as snacks. The outside sitting area is perfect if you want to talk.
• The Good View, 13 Charoen Rat Rd (Next to The Riverside Restaurant, +66 53-241886. 10:00-01:00. Thai and Western varieties of rock, jazz, pop and country music in the evening. Their extensive menu offers more than 150 Thai, Chinese, and Western dishes, including curries, noodles, rice and pizza. Full-service bar serving wine, beer and spirits. If you want to get in, get there early and there's a queue every night.
• The North Gate Jazz Collective. Nightly jazz performances starting around 21:30 with different performers and occasional guests from the audience. Mixed bag in terms of quality: sometimes great, sometimes mediocre. Serves a variety of drinks not normally found in Chiang Mai, notably red and white wine, mojitos and other mixed drinks. The staff are quick and efficient, and the prices are reasonable.
• Riverside Restaurant, 9-11 Charoen Rat Rd, +66 53-243239. The live music starts around 19:00 with dinner music from the Eagles, Beatles or soft jazz. Starting at 21:00, the music changes to more rock and pop. The restaurant gets very crowded, so arrive early to get a table. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 20:00 for 110 baht/person extra.
• Tha Chang Jazz Club, 25 Charoen Rat Rd (Next to Gallery Restaurant, +66 53-248601. Live jazz on Saturdays.

Boy Blues Bar. 19:00-01:00. The owner, "Boy", plays great blues guitar and is a nephew of Chiang Mai legend "Took", of the now defunct Brasserie. Monday night is jamming night and some great visiting musicians have made this often memorable. Bangkok blues legend, Chai (of Chai's Blues Bar fame), often joins in. Well worth a visit.

The Bridge Bar, Nimmanhaemin Rd, Soi 11, +66 81-5950678. Till 01:00. Live music every night, except Monday: Brit pop, rock, Thai. Mostly Thais go to this bar but you will as well see some expats, ages: 22-32. Service is excellent and if you happen to go there by yourself, for sure someone will come up to talk to you. The menu includes delicious cocktails: "Mango Kiss", "Velvet"! Cheap beer & Sangsom (Thai rum) as well as snacks. The outside sitting area is perfect if you want to talk.

The Good View, 13 Charoen Rat Rd (Next to The Riverside Restaurant, +66 53-241886. 10:00-01:00. Thai and Western varieties of rock, jazz, pop and country music in the evening. Their extensive menu offers more than 150 Thai, Chinese, and Western dishes, including curries, noodles, rice and pizza. Full-service bar serving wine, beer and spirits. If you want to get in, get there early and there's a queue every night.

The North Gate Jazz Collective. Nightly jazz performances starting around 21:30 with different performers and occasional guests from the audience. Mixed bag in terms of quality: sometimes great, sometimes mediocre. Serves a variety of drinks not normally found in Chiang Mai, notably red and white wine, mojitos and other mixed drinks. The staff are quick and efficient, and the prices are reasonable.

Riverside Restaurant, 9-11 Charoen Rat Rd, +66 53-243239. The live music starts around 19:00 with dinner music from the Eagles, Beatles or soft jazz. Starting at 21:00, the music changes to more rock and pop. The restaurant gets very crowded, so arrive early to get a table. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 20:00 for 110 baht/person extra.

Tha Chang Jazz Club, 25 Charoen Rat Rd (Next to Gallery Restaurant, +66 53-248601. Live jazz on Saturdays.

• Discovery. A small club with live band, DJ, and huge screens showing music videos. Good for drinking nights and letting loose. Bring ID/passport as they can be strict about entry, especially on weekends.
• Hot Shots. A Thai place with live music most nights, reasonable drink prices and no cover charge for foreigners or locals.
• Spicy, 82 Chaiyaphum Rd (Outside moat, across the moat from the Sompet Market, +66 53-234869. 02:00-. A hectic after-hours place with good drinks, dancing and lots of girls looking to party. Be forewarned, many are bar girls (the place doesn't get rocking until they get off at 02:00) so do not be surprised if they ask for money to go home with you.

Discovery. A small club with live band, DJ, and huge screens showing music videos. Good for drinking nights and letting loose. Bring ID/passport as they can be strict about entry, especially on weekends.

Hot Shots. A Thai place with live music most nights, reasonable drink prices and no cover charge for foreigners or locals.

Spicy, 82 Chaiyaphum Rd (Outside moat, across the moat from the Sompet Market, +66 53-234869. 02:00-. A hectic after-hours place with good drinks, dancing and lots of girls looking to party. Be forewarned, many are bar girls (the place doesn't get rocking until they get off at 02:00) so do not be surprised if they ask for money to go home with you.

• Fire: 053-241777
• Police - emergencies: 191
• Rescue Team: 053-218888
• Tourist police: 1155, 053-278559

Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but crime is rare and visitors shouldn't worry unduly. As always, travellers should take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote areas. Don't carry valuables in a bag after dark as the most common tourist related crime here is bag-snatching by youths on motorbikes. Mind your bag especially if you are walking on a dark street at night.

The safest approach is to act like your Thai hosts and wear reasonable clothing (shoulders and chest covered) medium-length skirts, long shorts or long pants, speak in a moderate tone of voice, and avoid flashing money or jewellery. Not only will respectable Thais appreciate your behaviour, you are much less likely to become a target of any criminal activity.

Some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their ugly heads in Chiang Mai. Two in particular are worth watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying near-worthless gems at far above their real value; and the tuk-tuk scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a sightseeing tour for 20 baht (or some similarly unrealistic amount) - needless to say, the tour will either consist of nothing but overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam. See the "Stay Safe" section of the Bangkok article for more details.

Chiang Mai's smoke levels can be discomforting, and sometimes dangerous, during burning season which starts around Makha Bucha Day (end-Feb to early Mar) and lasts about a month. Although there is a ban on burning, the whole of northern Thailand often falls under a thick haze during this period, with tens of thousands treated for smoke inhalation. Rice farmers burning off fields are commonly blamed for the smoke, but according to the Department of Air Quality there is an extensive range of burning activities during this season. In addition to slash and burn farmers clearing fields, a smaller proportion of farmers may burn land in order to clear forests and expand fields, to flush out game, or to trigger the growth of specific mushroom varieties. As a result, there are typically dozens of deaths, and for example in 2007 58 people died of smoke-related heart attacks. You are well advised to avoid Chiang Mai during this period. If you intend to visit at this time, you are advised to check on smoke levels in advance. Thousands of residents, both foreign and Thai, leave Chiang Mai at this time to escape the smoke. The government is apparently uninterested in fixing the problem: in 2015 they blamed it on outdoor cooking. The present solution is to spray the streets with water to "moisten the air". There is no political will to tackle the burning of rice fields and forests, which is the cause of the smoke. On 10 March 2015, dangerous PM10 particles measured over 255 mcg per cubic metre of air in Chiang Mai, well above the unsafe level of 120 mcg (this is the Thai government standard which is more than twice the maximum level set by the World Health Organization [WHO] at 50 mcg). Neighbouring areas can be as bad or worse, Chiang Rai for example, was at 306 mcgs, so moving on to a neighbouring province will generally not help: the pall of smoke stretches from northern Laos, across Thailand to eastern Burma. Here you can find the actual situation.

Tap water should be regarded as non-potable. Liquids from sealed bottles nearly always are, and should be used wherever possible. Nearly all restaurants use ice that is made by professional ice-making companies and is generally safe. There are street side water vending machines (1 baht per litre) throughout the city. Using one saves money and a lot of plastic refuse.

• DHL, Log 2-6, 1st floor, Montri Hotel, Ratchadamnoen Rd (Just north of the Tha Phae Gate inside moat, +66 53-326553. World-wide express shipping. Packaging services.

DHL, Log 2-6, 1st floor, Montri Hotel, Ratchadamnoen Rd (Just north of the Tha Phae Gate inside moat, +66 53-326553. World-wide express shipping. Packaging services.

The government of Thailand censors Internet access. 2010 estimates place the number of blocked websites at 110,000 and growing. Roughly 77% are blocked for reasons of lèse majesté, content (content that defames, insults, threatens, or is unflattering to the king, including national security and some political issues), 22% for pornography, which is illegal in Thailand. Some web pages from BBC One, BBC Two, CNN, Yahoo News, the Post-Intelligencer newspaper (Seattle, USA), The Age newspaper (Melbourne, Australia) dealing with Thai political content are blocked. The Daily Mail (UK) is blocked entirely.

Many guesthouses, hotels, cafes, bars, restaurants, and even swimming pools, offer Wi-Fi connections. These are usually free or available for a small charge. If you are travelling with your laptop you should be able to connect to the Internet within a 500 m radius of your Chiang Mai city-based accommodation at little or no cost.

In November 2012, the Ministry of Information announced the launch of 3,000 free Wi-Fi hotspots in Chiang Mai. The scheme, called ICT Free Wi-Fi for the Public by AIS, offers a download speed of 10 Mbit/s for up to five hours a month. Hotspots can be found near schools, shopping centres, hospitals and government offices. Those interested must sign up for the free service at ICT Free Wi-Fi, after which you will receive a user ID and password.

Internet cafes can be found everywhere within the city. Prices vary from 10 baht/hour (in "gaming" places filled with local children) to 60 baht/half-hour (2 baht/minute) and more. Most places charge per 15 or 30 minute block, others by the minute. The cheapest and most comfortable places with fast connections, webcam, microphone, and Skype, are along Huay Kaew Road near the main entrance to Chiang Mai University, where the cost is 10-20 baht.

• Buddy Internet, 12 Huay Kaew Rd (Northwest corner of the moat, opposite the Central Department Store, +66 53-404550. 08:00-24:00.

As elsewhere in Thailand, GPRS/EDGE is a cheap and convenient option to access Internet if you have a laptop and local SIM card. TrueMove 850 MHz 3G covers most parts of the city. For more details, refer to the Thailand article.

Buddy Internet, 12 Huay Kaew Rd (Northwest corner of the moat, opposite the Central Department Store, +66 53-404550. 08:00-24:00.

• Directory inquiry service: 183/1133
• International and domestic operator-assisted service: 100
• Overseas dial-out code: 001
• AT&T International operator for collect calls: 001 999 11111
• Mobile phones in Thailand have 10 digits, including the leading zero. Land-line telephones have 11 digits, including the leading zero.

• Airport 24-hr Post Office, 60 Moo 3, Airport Rd, +66 53-277382.
• Changklan Post Office, 186-186/1 Changklan Rd, +66 53-273657.
• Chang Phuak Post Office, 195/8-9 Chang Phuak Rd, +66 53-222483.
• Mae Ping Post Office, 24 Praisanee Rd, +66 53-252036-7.
• Main Post Office, Charoen Muang Rd, +66 53-241 070, +66 53-245376.
• Phra Sing Post Office.
• Talat Kam Tieng Post Office. This is the post office where you ship/receive bulky objects like bicycles and motorbikes.
• Tha Phae Post Office. Daily 08:00-20:00. This little PO is the most convenient one for most visitors due to its hours and central location. The offer packaging services, faxing, international telephoning, sell postcards, stamps, etc.

Airport 24-hr Post Office, 60 Moo 3, Airport Rd, +66 53-277382.

Changklan Post Office, 186-186/1 Changklan Rd, +66 53-273657.

Chang Phuak Post Office, 195/8-9 Chang Phuak Rd, +66 53-222483.

Mae Ping Post Office, 24 Praisanee Rd, +66 53-252036-7.

Main Post Office, Charoen Muang Rd, +66 53-241 070, +66 53-245376.

Phra Sing Post Office.

Talat Kam Tieng Post Office. This is the post office where you ship/receive bulky objects like bicycles and motorbikes.

Tha Phae Post Office. Daily 08:00-20:00. This little PO is the most convenient one for most visitors due to its hours and central location. The offer packaging services, faxing, international telephoning, sell postcards, stamps, etc.

• Australia Australia, 165 Sirimungklajarn, +66 53-219726 or +66 53-400232.
• Bangladesh Bangladesh, 95 Huay Kaew Rd, +66 53-212373-4.
• Canada Canada, 151 Super Highway, +66 53-850147 or +66 53-242292.
• China China, 111 Changlo Rd, Haiya District, +66 53-276125, +66 53-272197, +66 53-200424.
• Finland Finland, 104-112 Tha Phae Rd, +66 53-234777.
• France France, 138 Charoen Prathet Rd, +66 53-281466. M-F 10:00-12:00.
• Germany Germany, 199/163 Moo 3, Baan Nai Fun2, Kan Klong Chonpretan Rd (20 minutes out of the city by motorbike. Exceedingly difficult to find. Once you find Baan Nai Fun, ignore the numbers and go all the way inside until you see the tennis court. The consulate is in the ground floor of the building next to that., +66 53-838735.
• India India, 33/1, Thung Hotel Rd, +66 53-243066. People on a tourist visa in Thailand can apparently not apply for an Indian visa here—they have to acquire an e-visa.
• Italy Italy, 19/1 Soi 9 Sirimangkalajarn, 50200, +66 53-212925.
• Japan Japan, Airport Business Park, 90 Mahidol Rd, +66 53-203367. Alternative website.
• Myanmar Myanmar. M-F 09:00-12:00, 15:30-16:30, except Thai and Myanmar holidays. The office issues visas from 09:00-12:00, you are required to bring a passport, two standard colour passport photographs, a photocopy of the photo page of your passport, and providing the usual details. Pickup for same-day visa at 15:30. The costs for cheapest tourist visa are 1,600 baht.
• South Africa South Africa, 2F, Chiang Inn Hotel (Hotel closed permanently), 100 Changklan Rd, +66 53-270070-6.
• South Korea South Korea, V Group Bldg, 3rd Fl, 50 Huay Kaew Rd, +66 53-223120 ext 204.
• Sweden Sweden, 186/48 Green Valley, Moo 5, Mae Sa, Mae Rim (map marker is at a position where a direction poiter to the consulate can be found, +66 99-3787773.
• United States United States, 387 Witchayanon Rd, +66 53-252629. Alternative website.

Australia Australia, 165 Sirimungklajarn, +66 53-219726 or +66 53-400232.

Bangladesh Bangladesh, 95 Huay Kaew Rd, +66 53-212373-4.

Canada Canada, 151 Super Highway, +66 53-850147 or +66 53-242292.

China China, 111 Changlo Rd, Haiya District, +66 53-276125, +66 53-272197, +66 53-200424.

Finland Finland, 104-112 Tha Phae Rd, +66 53-234777.

France France, 138 Charoen Prathet Rd, +66 53-281466. M-F 10:00-12:00.

Germany Germany, 199/163 Moo 3, Baan Nai Fun2, Kan Klong Chonpretan Rd (20 minutes out of the city by motorbike. Exceedingly difficult to find. Once you find Baan Nai Fun, ignore the numbers and go all the way inside until you see the tennis court. The consulate is in the ground floor of the building next to that., +66 53-838735.

India India, 33/1, Thung Hotel Rd, +66 53-243066. People on a tourist visa in Thailand can apparently not apply for an Indian visa here—they have to acquire an e-visa.

Italy Italy, 19/1 Soi 9 Sirimangkalajarn, 50200, +66 53-212925.

Japan Japan, Airport Business Park, 90 Mahidol Rd, +66 53-203367. Alternative website.

Myanmar Myanmar. M-F 09:00-12:00, 15:30-16:30, except Thai and Myanmar holidays. The office issues visas from 09:00-12:00, you are required to bring a passport, two standard colour passport photographs, a photocopy of the photo page of your passport, and providing the usual details. Pickup for same-day visa at 15:30. The costs for cheapest tourist visa are 1,600 [[Thailand#Money|baht]].

South Africa South Africa, 2F, Chiang Inn Hotel (Hotel closed permanently), 100 Changklan Rd, +66 53-270070-6.

South Korea South Korea, V Group Bldg, 3rd Fl, 50 Huay Kaew Rd, +66 53-223120 ext 204.

Sweden Sweden, 186/48 Green Valley, Moo 5, Mae Sa, Mae Rim (map marker is at a position where a direction poiter to the consulate can be found, +66 99-3787773.

United States United States, 387 Witchayanon Rd, +66 53-252629. Alternative website.

• Elite Smile Dental Clinic, Changklan Rd (Pantip Plaza, Night Bazaar, +66 53-288199. Daily, 10:00-21:00. Sparkling clean dental facilities with modern equipment and great hours. Patronised by many expats.
• Grace Dental Care Clinic, 45 Soi 11 Nimmanhemin Rd, +66 53-894568-69. M-F 09:00-20:30; Sa-Su 09:00-17:00. Modern, state-of-the-art dental clinic. Many of the practitioners there, about 15 total, have studied abroad. Most, if not all, speak excellent English, as does the staff.
• Mukmai Dental Clinic, 11/3-4 Jaban Rd (Behind the 3 Kings Monument inside moat, +66 53-416328. M-Sa 09:00-20:00. Dr Suttipong is a terrific dentist, almost painless treatment. Friendly and accommodating staff and English spoken. Reasonable rates and convenient location.

Elite Smile Dental Clinic, Changklan Rd (Pantip Plaza, Night Bazaar, +66 53-288199. Daily, 10:00-21:00. Sparkling clean dental facilities with modern equipment and great hours. Patronised by many expats.

Grace Dental Care Clinic, 45 Soi 11 Nimmanhemin Rd, +66 53-894568-69. M-F 09:00-20:30; Sa-Su 09:00-17:00. Modern, state-of-the-art dental clinic. Many of the practitioners there, about 15 total, have studied abroad. Most, if not all, speak excellent English, as does the staff.

Mukmai Dental Clinic, 11/3-4 Jaban Rd (Behind the 3 Kings Monument inside moat, +66 53-416328. M-Sa 09:00-20:00. Dr Suttipong is a terrific dentist, almost painless treatment. Friendly and accommodating staff and English spoken. Reasonable rates and convenient location.

There are laundromats and laundry services, charging around 30 baht per kg, all over the city, but they all wash cold. There is a laundromat that has 3 machines that can do hot washing as well on Chaiyapum Rd (road along the moat from Si Phum corner to Tha Phae Gate) about half way between Sompet market and Tha Phae Gate. Opposite there is a cafe from where you can watch your stuff while having a beer.

• CM Mediclinic, 155/28 Moo 2, Yu Yen Soi 10, Tambon Changphueak (Opposite A-Plus Gallery Place, near TK Mansion, Ban Jed Yod & Sahataya Mansion at the back of Wat Jed Yod, Wat Chet Yot, (Google map spelling), +66 805 362362. M-F 16:30-20:00; Sa 08:00-17:00. Thai- and English-speaking healthcare centre/medical clinic providing comprehensive medical services for travelers, such as vaccinations and full health check-ups.
• Loi Kroh Clinic, 62/2 Loi Kroh Rd (corner of Loi Kroh Rd and Loi Kroh Soi 3, +66 53-271571. M-F 08:00-13:00, 16:30-20:30; Sa 08:00-13:00; Su 16:30-20:30. Small clinic for the treatment of minor ailments. Experienced, English-speaking doctor. Small pharmacy on the premises. In and out in 15 min, drugs in hand. 560 baht for examination of conjunctivitis, course of antibiotics and eye drops.

CM Mediclinic, 155/28 Moo 2, Yu Yen Soi 10, Tambon Changphueak (Opposite A-Plus Gallery Place, near TK Mansion, Ban Jed Yod & Sahataya Mansion at the back of Wat Jed Yod, Wat Chet Yot, (Google map spelling), +66 805 362362. M-F 16:30-20:00; Sa 08:00-17:00. Thai- and English-speaking healthcare centre/medical clinic providing comprehensive medical services for travelers, such as vaccinations and full health check-ups.

Loi Kroh Clinic, 62/2 Loi Kroh Rd (corner of Loi Kroh Rd and Loi Kroh Soi 3, +66 53-271571. M-F 08:00-13:00, 16:30-20:30; Sa 08:00-13:00; Su 16:30-20:30. Small clinic for the treatment of minor ailments. Experienced, English-speaking doctor. Small pharmacy on the premises. In and out in 15 min, drugs in hand. 560 baht for examination of conjunctivitis, course of antibiotics and eye drops.

• Chiang Dao — an hour north of the city, and a good starting point for treks into the mountains
• Chiang Rai — a relaxed city 3 hours north, and a transit point on the way to the Golden Triangle and Laos
• Doi Inthanon National Park — the highest peak in Thailand (2,599 m), 60 km SW of Chiang Mai
• Lampang — urban Northern Thailand without the commercialism, 100 km SE of Chiang Mai
• Lamphun — a scenic town with a long history and a longan festival, 26 km SE of Chiang Mai
• Mae Hong Son — a picturesque little town with lush valleys, rocky streams and a small lake, 235 km from Chiang Mai on Rte 1095. By public bus about 6 hr
• Nan — the former capital of a small kingdom filled with history and temples and surrounded by mountains
• Pai — a tourist-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller & backpacker scene. Popular with hippies

• Chiang Khong - Huay Xai, Laos. From Huay Xai also there are slow (2-day) and fast (6-8 hr) boats ply the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Buses are also available to Luang Prabang and north to Luang Namtha.
• Mae Sai - Tachilek, Myanmar. Best known for their border markets. A popular place to pop over the border for a few hours before renewing your Thai visa. There are no consular services so you cannot get a new visa here. It is possible to get a 14-day Thai visa on re-entry to Thailand which can come in very handy if you do not have any time left on your current Thai visa. The Myanmar fee for a same day entry permit is USD10 or 500 baht, and so it is better to use US dollars. Many people buy Western alcohol, especially wine, while in Myanmar due to the very large duties imposed in Thailand.

Chiang Khong - Huay Xai, Laos. From Huay Xai also there are slow (2-day) and fast (6-8 hr) boats ply the Mekong to Luang Prabang. Buses are also available to Luang Prabang and north to Luang Namtha.

Mae Sai - Tachilek, Myanmar. Best known for their border markets. A popular place to pop over the border for a few hours before renewing your Thai visa. There are no consular services so you cannot get a new visa here. It is possible to get a 14-day Thai visa on re-entry to Thailand which can come in very handy if you do not have any time left on your current Thai visa. The Myanmar fee for a same day entry permit is USD10 or 500 baht, and so it is better to use US dollars. Many people buy Western alcohol, especially wine, while in Myanmar due to the very large duties imposed in Thailand.