Glenfinnan

Glenfinnan is a village in the Western Highlands of Scotland, between Fort William and Mallaig (ferry port for Skye and the Small Isles). Standing at the head of Loch Shiel, it's famous as the place where "Bonnie Prince Charlie" launched his 1745 Jacobite rebellion. The railway to Mallaig here sweeps over the valley on the spectacular Glenfinnan Viaduct, used as a location in several films and TV series. The viaduct also features on the Bank of Scotland (2007 & 2017 series) £10 note.

• Glenfinnan Viaduct. Magnificent 21-arched concrete railway viaduct, opened 1901, curling round the valley at the head of the loch. There is a viewing platform above the car park at the visitor centre which can be reached in about 5 minutes walk. For a better view use the free car park further up the route, then 15 to 20 mins walk takes you under then behind the viaduct, giving a nice close up view. Both paths are mapped out on signs in front of the visitor centre as are times of the passing steam trains. Films that have used this location include Ring of Bright Water, Charlotte Gray, Monarch of the Glen, Stone of Destiny and (endlessly) the Harry Potter series. But they don't include Stand by Me so please do not walk onto the viaduct! It's an active railway line, you're trespassing and you might get squished. There's a legend that a horse and cart tumbled into one of the pylons during construction and became entombed. Investigations failed to detect it, but in 2001 it was found in Loch nam Uamh viaduct 15 miles west, near Arisaig.
• Glenfinnan Monument. In 1745 "'Bonnie Prince Charlie" crossed from France to try to reclaim the throne for his father James, who'd tried himself and failed in 1715. Charles landed in the Western Isles then came to the mainland with a force of some 1000 men. On 19 Aug he launched his uprising here by raising his "royal" banner - that of the Catholic Stuart dynasty, who'd been deposed by the Protestant Hanoverians. His force grew, marched on and occupied Edinburgh unopposed. He routed a counter-attack at Prestonpans, then set off into England again unopposed and with hopes high. Everything was going so well, how could they fail? . . . But some 15 miles west of Glenfinnan is "The Prince's Cairn", where in Sept 1746 Charles finally fled into exile in France, with his cause lost forever, his supporters slain in battle or put to death, and the Highlands suffering harsh military reprisals.
• Loch Shiel is a 17-mile-long fjord - a valley carved out by glaciers that used to be an inlet of the sea, but dammed by glacial rubble to become a fresh-water loch. There are boat trips on the loch and walks on the forestry trails beside it - look for otters and eagles. The wooded islets contain remnants of Scotland's primeval forest. None of the surrounding hills count as "Munroes" but several are "Corbetts".

Glenfinnan Viaduct. Magnificent 21-arched concrete railway viaduct, opened 1901, curling round the valley at the head of the loch. There is a viewing platform above the car park at the visitor centre which can be reached in about 5 minutes walk. For a better view use the free car park further up the route, then 15 to 20 mins walk takes you under then behind the viaduct, giving a nice close up view. Both paths are mapped out on signs in front of the visitor centre as are times of the passing steam trains. Films that have used this location include Ring of Bright Water, Charlotte Gray, Monarch of the Glen, Stone of Destiny and (endlessly) the [[Harry Potter tourism|Harry Potter]] series. But they don't include Stand by Me so please do not walk onto the viaduct! It's an active railway line, you're trespassing and you might get squished. There's a legend that a horse and cart tumbled into one of the pylons during construction and became entombed. Investigations failed to detect it, but in 2001 it was found in Loch nam Uamh viaduct 15 miles west, near [[Arisaig]].

Glenfinnan Monument. In 1745 "'Bonnie Prince Charlie" crossed from France to try to reclaim the throne for his father James, who'd tried himself and failed in 1715. Charles landed in the Western Isles then came to the mainland with a force of some 1000 men. On 19 Aug he launched his uprising here by raising his "royal" banner - that of the Catholic Stuart dynasty, who'd been deposed by the Protestant Hanoverians. His force grew, marched on and occupied Edinburgh unopposed. He routed a counter-attack at Prestonpans, then set off into England again unopposed and with hopes high. Everything was going so well, how could they fail? . . . But some 15 miles west of Glenfinnan is "The Prince's Cairn", where in Sept 1746 Charles finally fled into exile in France, with his cause lost forever, his supporters slain in battle or put to death, and the Highlands suffering harsh military reprisals.

Loch Shiel is a 17-mile-long fjord - a valley carved out by glaciers that used to be an inlet of the sea, but dammed by glacial rubble to become a fresh-water loch. There are boat trips on the loch and walks on the forestry trails beside it - look for otters and eagles. The wooded islets contain remnants of Scotland's primeval forest. None of the surrounding hills count as "Munroes" but several are "Corbetts".

Glenfinnan is in an area of hills, loch and beautiful scenery. Here are a few recommended walks:

• The Village: from the red phone box on the main road, start towards the top of the village, but take the first right down a bumpy track. This is the "backtrack". Follow the path down and across the foot bridge. When you reach the tarmac road, turn right and follow the road to the pier. At the pier, take the shore path to the left, and you will end up at the Glenfinnan House Hotel. Walk across the front of the lawn, and you will find yourself upon the road again. Straight across the road, there is a footpath leading up to the church. You will have to cross someone's drive to carry on here. At the church there is a fantastic view of the loch. At the church car park, and the main road, you can either take a right down to the bottom of the village and the glen, or take a left to take you back to the top of the village. The main road in the village is single track and has some beautiful little beaches if you just step off the road.
• The Loch: from the Monument take the path left around the loch to come onto its east shore. An old bridge takes you over the River Callop where there's a choice of routes. You could go east, inland, on the trail besides that river up towards Callop village and glen. Or stay on the lochside heading south, using the Forestry dirt road that goes all the way to Polloch. Further trails ascend above Polloch towards Strontian on Loch Sunart: this would be a serious expedition with an overnight bivvy.
• The Glen: park at the foot of the glen. There's a tarmac road up the glen but only the residents up there may drive it. The road leads under the viaduct, and parallels the river up as far as the bothy, 4 miles, before giving out into hill trails. Various swimming spots and views along the way.

Loch Shiel at the foot of the village is a good place to swim. It's rocky and shallow to begin with, then widens with a sandy bottom. Strong swimmers can get to the island and back. Obvious but please remember: it's fresh water so you don't float as well as in the sea. And it's not as warm as it looks, especially in early summer when the water temperature takes a month or two to follow the air temperature, so it's still March in there.

The River Finnan, up the glen, is quieter and has pools to splosh in.

• Glenfinnan Gathering and Highland Games are held annually on the August weekend closest to the 19th, the anniversary of Bonnie Prince Charlie launching his uprising. The next will be on Sat 17 Aug 2019. Games involve athletics, wrestling, piping and dancing, caber-tossing, and much swirling of kilts. The event is held on Jacobite Monument Field, prominent on the left as you enter the village coming from Fort William. The event starts at 11:30 and goes on till 5pm, with a hill race in the afternoon. Later that evening there is the Games Dance.
• Glenfinnan Fun Day: family-oriented event usually held in June each year on the lawn of Glenfinnan House Hotel. Sports, wacky races, games & slides, local produce stalls. But it didn't happen in 2019 and the future of this event is in doubt.

Glenfinnan Gathering and Highland Games are held annually on the August weekend closest to the 19th, the anniversary of Bonnie Prince Charlie launching his uprising. The next will be on Sat 17 Aug 2019. Games involve athletics, wrestling, piping and dancing, caber-tossing, and much swirling of kilts. The event is held on Jacobite Monument Field, prominent on the left as you enter the village coming from Fort William. The event starts at 11:30 and goes on till 5pm, with a hill race in the afternoon. Later that evening there is the Games Dance.

Glenfinnan Fun Day: family-oriented event usually held in June each year on the lawn of Glenfinnan House Hotel. Sports, wacky races, games & slides, local produce stalls. But it didn't happen in 2019 and the future of this event is in doubt.

Glenfinnan has no grocery shops (nearest: Corpach, 12 miles in the direction of Fort William), clubs or bank machines, although many places do accept credit cards as payment.

• There is a shop at the National Trust for Scotland, selling souvenirs, books, post cards and other miscellaneous items.
• There is a small shop at the Station Museum on the platform at Glenfinnan Station.
• There is a candle shop at the top of the village (opposite the Prince's House), selling all kinds from the best midge candles in the area (and very handy they are too!) to gorgeous scented candles, all hand made on the premises.

• Glenfinnan House Hotel and The Prince's House (see "Sleep" listings) both have good restaurants open to non-residents.
• The National Trust for Scotland Cafe. Daily 10:00-16:45. Sandwiches and soup available at lunch time. Tea, coffee and cake available all day every day.
• The Carriage. Daily 10:00-16:30. Sandwiches, soup and home baking available all day every day.

Glenfinnan House Hotel and The Prince's House (see "Sleep" listings) both have good restaurants open to non-residents.

The National Trust for Scotland Cafe. Daily 10:00-16:45. Sandwiches and soup available at lunch time. Tea, coffee and cake available all day every day.

The Carriage. Daily 10:00-16:30. Sandwiches, soup and home baking available all day every day.

Both hotel bars are open to non-residents, with a wide selection of alcohol, bar meals and soft drinks.

• The nearest town of any size is Fort William 17 miles east, at the foot of Ben Nevis (for climbing, skiing and mountain biking).
• Good beaches in the vicinity are Glenuig (17 miles, go west to Lochailort then left towards Acharacle), Camusdarach (21 miles, take straggly old road after Arisaig) and Silver Sands (Morar, approaching Mallaig).
• Ferries to the Small Isles (Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna) leave from Mallaig daily. Day trips may be possible, and boat trips also run from Arisaig.
• Over the sea to Skye: ferries run from Mallaig to Armadale, or go around by road across the Kyles of Lochalsh Bridge.
• Ardnamurchan Point is the most westerly point on the mainland of Great Britain, and in some ways more remote than the islands. Drive west to Lochailort, follow the road south along the coast to Kilchoan and continue west until the road runs out.
• For the Isle of Mull by public transport, return to Fort William, then take the bus (one per day M-Sa) to Kilchoan for the short ferry crossing to Tobermory.