Gunung Leuser National Park is a large Indonesian National Park covering 950,000 hectares in northern Sumatra, straddling the border of the provinces of North Sumatra and Aceh.
The village of Bukit Lawang is in the park 90 km northwest of Medan. It is most famous for being one of the last places in the world where one can see orangutans in the wild. Bukit Lawang is situated at the eastern side of Gunung Leuser National Park. As Bukit Lawang is near Medan, it can get crowded during the weekend, especially during the public holiday period (June-beginning of July). Try to avoid the weekends (full guesthouses, crowded feeding platform, large and numerous trekking groups).
Make your plans to go for either half a day trekking or a full day trekking as a miminimum to see the Orang Hutans and other wild animals in the forest
Ketambe village is another option — quiet, not crowded, wild. There is a research station at Ketembe. It is not open to the public.
The park is named after one of its highest points, the 3,381m Mount Leuser (Gunung Leuser). The Gunung Leuser National Park was originally created as a wildlife reserve.
Along with the two other National Parks (Kerinci Seblat and Bukit Barisan Selatan) on the island, it comprises the UNESCO World Heritage site of 'The Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra' (status since 2004).
In 1973 a Swiss organization set up an orangutan rehabilitation centre in Bukit Lawang (Bukit Lawang literally means "door to the hills"). The purpose of the centre was to rehabilitate orangutans released from captivity. The rangers at the centre teach the orangutan all the necessary skills to survive in the wild. After an intense period of quarantine, readjustment to the natural habitat and reintegration into the (semi-)wild population, the orangutan is released back into the jungle. All orangutans released are still monitored by the rangers and they still provide them with supplementary food at the feeding platform until they become fully self-reliant.
In the years after the arrival of the rehabilitation center more and more tourists found their way to Bukit Lawang and it became one of the most popular destinations in Sumatra. The feeding center was closed several years ago. All orangutans from the center have been slowly released to the wild. Now you can only see orangutans in the wild while guided trekking in the Nationalpark.
The Flood
A flash flood hit Bukit Lawang on 2 November 2003. Described by witnesses as a tidal wave, the water was approximately 20 meters high, as it came crashing down the hills, wiping out everything in its path. The disaster, which was the result of illegal logging, destroyed the local tourist resorts and had a devastating impact to the local tourism industry. Around 400 houses, 3 mosques, 8 bridges, 280 kiosks and food stalls, 35 inns and guest houses were destroyed by the flood, and 239 people (5 of them tourists) were killed and around 1,400 locals lost their homes. After eight months of rebuilding, Bukit Lawang was re-opened again in July 2004.
For many villagers the trauma of losing family, friends and their homes has taken a long time to come to terms with. The people were facing unemployment and homelessness. It has been a long road to recovery and an especially hard task to rebuild a town with only limited financial assistance from the government. However the people in Bukit Lawang are survivors and the new village is taking shape and more and more businesses are opening again.
Especially the young generation is hoping to rebuild the village in more sustainable way than before and they are very aware of the importance of preservation of the fragile ecosystem they live in. They can use all the support they can get and the income of tourism will help them in realizing their ideas for a brighter future for Bukit Lawang.
Part of the Barisan mountain range lies within the park. The highest peak, and the park's namesake, Gunung Leuser can be climbed. Much of the park is steep and inaccessible.
Seeing the orangutans is a magical experience. About 10,000 live in this area. In Bukit Lawang, you can usually see them near the rehabilitation centre and at the feeding platform during the morning and afternoon feeding sessions. In Ketambe, you can go to 1-7 days treks into the jungle.
The best experience is an encounter in the jungle where there are many semi-wild and wild animals. The wild orangutan can be difficult to spot unless you go deep into the jungle. There are also white and black gibbons that make an amazing noise calling out to each other, and Thomas Leaf monkeys. If you are lucky, you may be able to see hornbills, toucans, moon snakes, monitor lizards.
Since there are very few (hundreds) still alive, it is very improbable that either the Sumatran Tiger or the Sumatran Rhinoceros will be encountered, although footprints and droppings have been reported. If you really want to see a tiger, you have to go deep, and be patient (waiting for weeks).
For elephants, go to Tangkahan or near Ketambe, where you can trek further into the jungle to try and spot wild elephants.
During the wet season, October to March, expect rain at least daily, towards the late afternoon and early evening. Intensity varies, but invariably the monsoonal rains always arrive. Climate is always very humid, so pack a lot of drinking water if you are trekking.
Permits need to be arranged at a PHPA office before entering the park. The fee is Rp 150,000 per person.
In Bukit Lawang this can also be paid at the orangutan feeding ground. The permit should be included in all treks and jungle activities, but check with the guide to be sure.
In Ketembe your guesthouse may ask for your passport to register you with the authorities. If you have copies of your passport (including the visa page) you can give them those instead.
- Wild monkeys: gibbons, orangutans in the rainforest near Ketambe
- Bat Cave near Bukit Lawang
- Elephant Camp at Tangkahan
- Various waterfalls in the jungle
- Landak river
Wild monkeys: gibbons, orangutans in the rainforest near [[Ketambe]]
Bat Cave near Bukit Lawang
Elephant Camp at Tangkahan
Various waterfalls in the jungle
The number one reason to go to Gunung Leuser National Park is for a trek, whether that's mountain trekking or trekking to spot wildlife.
A jungle trek is a must. Seeing the orangutan in the wild may be one of the best experiences you will have in your life.
It is not permitted to go unaccompanied into the jungle. There are plenty of good and reliable guides around so take your time to get to know some of them, have a chat, make your choice and prepare for a great adventure. Ask questions and ask them if they follow the rules and do not feed orangutans or any other wildlife. Ask if they will actually be your guide or if they will pass you on to another group. It has happened that travellers pay their money and get sold off and end up in a group of 10 people. Ask how many people will be in the group.
It is a good idea to ask for information at the guest houses... if anything goes wrong or you are not happy you can complain to them. And they have a reputation to keep up.
A fixed price for jungle treks is €55 per day. A 2-day trek including rafting is €90 and a 3-day trek including rafting is €120. During the trek the guides always provide you nice Indonesian traditional meals and exotic fruits! Usually you stop at a really nice waterfall where you have the chance to relax and swim!
It happened quite often that some guides have fed orangutan some human food during a trek just to coax the wild animals to pose for tourists. Several orangutan have gotten sick or died for this reason. You should not get close to or call or feed any of the animals, even if your guide irresponsibly tells you it is OK.
Even though sightings of the orangutan and other wildlife can never be guaranteed, when following the instructions of your guide the chances are favorable.
Another hero is the Thomas Leaf Monkey. Such a wonderful creature that leaps into air with wild abandon as they move from tree to tree. Their mohawk hair styles and faces filled with millions of years of character really make these little guys stand out.
If you want to go on a multiple day trek make sure you are fit and in good condition. The humidity coupled with the intensity of grade of the hills makes for some hard work. The reward at the end of your jungle adventure is a late afternoon paddle in the river back to the village.
Everyone who is planning to go on a jungle trek is asked to refrain from any physical contact with the orangutans. Getting too close to an orangutan increases the risk of passing on disease and viral infection, which jeopardizes the orangutan's chances of survival and in turn the health and survival of the wild orangutan population in the entire area. All guests should keep at least 10 meters away and move away if an orangutan approaches. The motto of any jungle adventure should be take only pictures, leave only footprints.
Another popular past time activity is tubing. When tubing one uses an inner tube to float down the river. Tubes can be rented at various stalls along the village and expect pay around Rp 10.000 per tube. Be careful on the water because currents are strong.
You can also visit the bat cave for Rp 10,000 [make sure to take a flashlight], make a stroll around the rice fields and rubber plantations, visit some of the social projects (like the Children's Home on the way to the bat cave), visit the Friday market or just hang out with some of the locals and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere.
A wide range of treks into the jungle looking for wildlife are available in Bukit Lawang, Ketembe and Tangkahan. There are many tours from 1 to 3 days (sleeping in the jungle) but more or less can probably be arranged too.
- Bukit Lawang - it's highly recommended to do a trek with one of the official rangers from the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre as there can be problems with guides feeding the orangutans to ensure tourists get a sighting.
- Ketembe - you will see real wild living orangutans (not like in Bukit Lawang, were you can even feed them), monkeys and many kind of birds. On a 2- to 3-day trip you can go to a hot spring beside the Alas river and camp over there. The treks are not very strenuous as the emphasis is on finding wildlife not hiking. On a longer trip (7-10 days) you can go deeper into the jungle and look for some shy tigers. (Prices: Rp 350,000 per person per day, 2014)
- Kedah - there is jungle trekking around Pucuk Angkasan. Guides: Mr Jally and Pak Umar.
- Tangkahan has about 7 elephants and very few tourists. Guides there charge Rp 180,000 for guided jungle treks, though just seeing the elephants is very cheap and rides on the elephants are negotiable.
- Elephant trekking through the jungle in Tangkahan
Bukit Lawang - it's highly recommended to do a trek with one of the official rangers from the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre as there can be problems with guides feeding the orangutans to ensure tourists get a sighting.
Ketembe - you will see real wild living orangutans (not like in Bukit Lawang, were you can even feed them), monkeys and many kind of birds. On a 2- to 3-day trip you can go to a hot spring beside the Alas river and camp over there. The treks are not very strenuous as the emphasis is on finding wildlife not hiking. On a longer trip (7-10 days) you can go deeper into the jungle and look for some shy tigers. (Prices: Rp 350,000 per person per day, 2014)
Kedah - there is jungle trekking around Pucuk Angkasan. Guides: Mr Jally and Pak Umar.
Tangkahan has about 7 elephants and very few tourists. Guides there charge Rp 180,000 for guided jungle treks, though just seeing the elephants is very cheap and rides on the elephants are negotiable.
Elephant trekking through the jungle in Tangkahan
These are all multi-day treks.
- Gunung Leuser - the best starting points are the villages near Blangkejeren. The trek from Kedah to the Gunung Leuser peak and back takes 10 days in total. Guides charge Rp 350,000/day/person. Since the trek is about 70% in alpine regions, you will not see too much wildlife, but exciting flora. For wildlife you better choose a trek to Gunung Angkosan (2 days) or to upper Alas valley (4 days).
- Gunung Kemiri - the best starting point is Ketembe.
Gunung Leuser - the best starting points are the villages near Blangkejeren. The trek from Kedah to the Gunung Leuser peak and back takes 10 days in total. Guides charge Rp 350,000/day/person. Since the trek is about 70% in alpine regions, you will not see too much wildlife, but exciting flora. For wildlife you better choose a trek to Gunung Angkosan (2 days) or to upper Alas valley (4 days).
Gunung Kemiri - the best starting point is Ketembe.
- Tubing in Bukit Lawang
- Rafting along the Alas River, Ketembe
- Bathe in hot springs in the jungle near Ketembe
Tubing in Bukit Lawang
Rafting along the Alas River, Ketembe
Bathe in hot springs in the jungle near Ketembe
After your Bukit Lawang adventure you can also explore other parts of the island like Lake Toba or Berastagi. Discover Sumatra specializes in organising tailor-made trips.
- We Care Program. This school provides free English lessons, lessons on the environment and key skills to disadvantaged children in Bukit Lawang. They appreciate any time you can give: You can join them for one lesson or volunteer long-term. They provide free accommodation for long-term volunteers. Visitors to the school are also welcome. You can also pay to trek with the teachers; proceeds will go to the school.
We Care Program. This school provides free English lessons, lessons on the environment and key skills to disadvantaged children in Bukit Lawang. They appreciate any time you can give: You can join them for one lesson or volunteer long-term. They provide free accommodation for long-term volunteers. Visitors to the school are also welcome. You can also pay to trek with the teachers; proceeds will go to the school.
In Bukit Lawang during the low season not all shops are open on weekdays, however in the weekend there are several small shops that sell the locally made coconut necklaces and clothes. Also there is a small shop selling bamboo souvenirs, like key chains, picture frames, etc. There are also a few shops that sell wood carvings and at the beginning is Genta's batik shop, selling traditional batik paintings.
There are only very small shops in Ketembe selling not much more than packets of biscuits and bottles of water. Buy everything you need in Kutacane or elsewhere.
All of the guesthouses have restaurants, usually with both Indonesian and Western food available. When trekking, your guide should provide all your food.
- Green Hill. Has great views of the jungle and there food is great. The restaurant is a lovely open plan space and a good menu and is brilliant for vegetarians e.g. banana and chocolate pancakes, tempe rendang, veggie curry.
- Indra Valley Inn and Resto. Have a wonderful riverside location with jungle views. The restaurant & bar offer offer a variety of delicious fresh meals and snacks with a good variety of vegetarian options. Ask the staff about their river surfing- for those wanting to work up an appetite before they dine.
- Jungle Tribe. A cocktail bar and restaurant owned by Erika-Canadian woman and her husband Agun. Situated next door to Sam's restaurant across the road from Sam's Bungalows- 3 very pleasant rooms with great views of the river.
- Sam's Bungalows. Right next door to Jungle Tribe cocktail bar, this restaurant has the best in panoramic views of the river. Sam's cook uses an array of herbs and spices that give her cooking an extra dimension. Try the Gado Gado special. All the curries are rich in flavor, filled with nutritious and natural food.
- Tony's Restaurant. Serves excellent home made pizza for those craving a touch of the west. The best spaghetti this side of Roma and a great tasting Gado Gado for those seeking some of the local fare.
- Yusri Cafe. Situated across from the National Park Ticket Office. A very homely feeling cafe with Yusuf and Rita (with Rita & her mum doing all the cooking) taking care of you. Serving tasty local food at local prices with decent portion sizes. Good western selection of food for breakfast. Nasi Goreng Rp 8,000, Nasi Ayam Rp 10,000, Black Tea/Coffee Rp 2,000 with milk Rp 5,000, Banana toast Rp 7,000, Banana Pancake Rp 8,000.
Green Hill. Has great views of the jungle and there food is great. The restaurant is a lovely open plan space and a good menu and is brilliant for vegetarians e.g. banana and chocolate pancakes, tempe rendang, veggie curry.
Indra Valley Inn and Resto. Have a wonderful riverside location with jungle views. The restaurant & bar offer offer a variety of delicious fresh meals and snacks with a good variety of vegetarian options. Ask the staff about their river surfing- for those wanting to work up an appetite before they dine.
Jungle Tribe. A cocktail bar and restaurant owned by Erika-Canadian woman and her husband Agun. Situated next door to Sam's restaurant across the road from Sam's Bungalows- 3 very pleasant rooms with great views of the river.
Sam's Bungalows. Right next door to Jungle Tribe cocktail bar, this restaurant has the best in panoramic views of the river. Sam's cook uses an array of herbs and spices that give her cooking an extra dimension. Try the Gado Gado special. All the curries are rich in flavor, filled with nutritious and natural food.
Tony's Restaurant. Serves excellent home made pizza for those craving a touch of the west. The best spaghetti this side of Roma and a great tasting Gado Gado for those seeking some of the local fare.
Yusri Cafe. Situated across from the National Park Ticket Office. A very homely feeling cafe with Yusuf and Rita (with Rita & her mum doing all the cooking) taking care of you. Serving tasty local food at local prices with decent portion sizes. Good western selection of food for breakfast. Nasi Goreng Rp 8,000, Nasi Ayam Rp 10,000, Black Tea/Coffee Rp 2,000 with milk Rp 5,000, Banana toast Rp 7,000, Banana Pancake Rp 8,000.
Guesthouses sell a range of drinks and when trekking your guide should bring enough water but you may wish to check this. At sunset a great place for a Bintang is the terrace at the Eco Lodge. The friendly folks there will serve you up a cold beer and you can watch the colours change over the town and river below.
Some guides can get quite flirtatious/annoying with the girls during trekking trips esp in Bukit Lawang so team up with a larger group during a hike if travelling as a single female or pair. It is perfectly safe for female travellers here but do behave appropriately. Don't wear bikinis or skimpy clothing... this includes tight fitting and low cut t-shirts. Solo female travellers who seek a bit of reassurance should check with the guesthouses and arrange to go trekking with other travellers. Green Hill and Sam's Bungalows have good reputations for solo travellers. Any woman who experiences sexual harassment in any form in Bukit Lawang should report the incident immediately to the Guides Association at +62-813-70730151 (Bahrum the leader). Also make sure you get a photo of the guide as well.
When travelling down the river rapids on the rubber tyres, do not go past the bridge. There are narrow drains and sharper rocks the closer you get to the village.
Keep your villa doors and windows closed when you are not around, the long tailed macaques like to get inside and raid your belongings for food.
Unbranded or unfamiliar branded or even unsealed bottled liquor or alcohol is best to be avoided as it may be too harsh for you and you might be end up hospitalized.
- From Bukit Lawang, Tangkahan could be an interesting delve further into the National Park. Otherwise head back to Medan for connections elsewhere.
- From Ketambe, you could go on to Kedah to switch from wildlife trekking to mountain climbing.
- There are regular buses from Kutacane to Medan which pass through mountain town Berastagi (home to Sibayak and Sinabung volcanoes). Or change direction and head up to Banda Aceh.