Lake Toba

Indonesia

Lake Toba (Danau Toba), on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia, is the largest volcanic lake in the world. Samosir island, in the lake, is an island within an island. It is located at North Sumatra.

Lake Toba Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake covering an area of 1,707 km2 (1,000 km2 bigger than Singapore) with an island in the center. Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggest that there were only a few thousand individuals that survived the catastrophe. The island in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of Batak tribe who are mostly Christians nowadays.

Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs skyrocket. In its effort to promote tourism, government has greatly improved the infrastructure.

Now, Lake Toba is unhealthy for swimming due to excess of fish feeding, mainly for locations near fish floating net cages.

The local people who live in the Toba region are called Toba Batak, or simply Batak, and they speak the local Batak language, but everyone also speaks Indonesian. You may want to use the Batak greeting, horas, which means welcome, good morning, farewell, etc.

Well preserved traditional Batak house in Monument of KIng Silalahi.

  • King Sidabutar Grave, Tomok. The Batak king who adopted Christianity is buried in Tomok, a village 5km southeast of Tuktuk.
  • Batak Tombs. Many large tombs scattered in the (often rice) fields as family graves. This is typical for Toba Bataks but also other Bataks (e.g. SE of Berastagi).
  • Batak Museum, Simanindo. At the northern tip of the island there is a Batak Museum with traditional dance performed twice daily at on 10am. Rp 50,000.
  • Tele observation tower terrace overlooking western Lake Toba & Samosir island.Stone chairs and old houses, Ambarita. 8am-6pm. Stone chairs used for judgement and executions on a village square, in front of a line of old Batak houses (about 50-100 years old, but look older). Many houses are still in use.Entrance fee of Rp 5,000 (June 2017)
  • Or you can just enjoy the scenery which is breathtaking!
  • Sipiso-piso falls, Tongging, Merek (30 min drive from Merek, turns right when you see the sign. Continue until you meet a gate to pay entrance fee.. 24 hours. Highest waterfall in North Sumatra. You can climb down to get near to the waterfall or just enjoy the vista from top
  • Monument of King Silalahi, Silalahi, Paropo (Continue down the main road along the lake from Tongging village (not back to Merek road) until Silalahi village, on the left side of the road. A grave of Batak King Silalahi, contains well-preserved Batak traditional house.
  • Tele observation tower. Offer a view of Mt. Pusuk Buhit and the whole western side of Lake Toba. There is a small souvenir shop just beside the tower. The road to here are narrow and offer limited parking place. Rp 7,000 per person.
  • Bukit HolbungHolbung, Harian, Samosir (Head down the road from Tele tower to Panguruan, you will see branch to the right that is heading down. Continue along the road passing some villages and Efrata waterfalls. You will pass over a hill and then back down to a vast rocky field to your right. You'll see the road start climbing high again. On top of the road is a parking place and small post to denote the place.. A splendid rolling hills that offer breathtaking view of the western part of Lake Toba. Also a popular spot for camping. Rp 5,000 per person, parking fee Rp 10,000 per car.
  • Simarjarunjung hill, Jl. Simarjarunjung (Between main road of Parapat and Merek. Another spot to view the eastern side of Lake Toba There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.

King Sidabutar Grave, Tomok. The Batak king who adopted Christianity is buried in Tomok, a village 5km southeast of Tuktuk.

Batak Tombs. Many large tombs scattered in the (often rice) fields as family graves. This is typical for Toba Bataks but also other Bataks (e.g. SE of Berastagi).

Batak Museum, Simanindo. At the northern tip of the island there is a Batak Museum with traditional dance performed twice daily at on 10am. Rp 50,000.

Stone chairs and old houses, Ambarita. 8am-6pm. Stone chairs used for judgement and executions on a village square, in front of a line of old Batak houses (about 50-100 years old, but look older). Many houses are still in use.Entrance fee of Rp 5,000 (June 2017)

Sipiso-piso falls, Tongging, Merek (30 min drive from Merek, turns right when you see the sign. Continue until you meet a gate to pay entrance fee.. 24 hours. Highest waterfall in North Sumatra. You can climb down to get near to the waterfall or just enjoy the vista from top

Monument of King Silalahi, Silalahi, Paropo (Continue down the main road along the lake from Tongging village (not back to Merek road) until Silalahi village, on the left side of the road. A grave of Batak King Silalahi, contains well-preserved Batak traditional house.

Tele observation tower. Offer a view of Mt. Pusuk Buhit and the whole western side of Lake Toba. There is a small souvenir shop just beside the tower. The road to here are narrow and offer limited parking place. Rp 7,000 per person.

Holbung, Harian, Samosir (Head down the road from Tele tower to Panguruan, you will see branch to the right that is heading down. Continue along the road passing some villages and Efrata waterfalls. You will pass over a hill and then back down to a vast rocky field to your right. You'll see the road start climbing high again. On top of the road is a parking place and small post to denote the place.. A splendid rolling hills that offer breathtaking view of the western part of Lake Toba. Also a popular spot for camping. Rp 5,000 per person, parking fee Rp 10,000 per car.

Simarjarunjung hill, Jl. Simarjarunjung (Between main road of Parapat and Merek. Another spot to view the eastern side of Lake Toba

Pusuk Buhit from Tele tower

  • Hot springs. The are several establishments at hot springs, most of which also offer accommodations and restaurants. If you stay or eat at the establishment, the entry fee may be free. The water is hot. Locals usually use their hands to get some water out of the pool. Standing in the pool is possible, but you probably won't be able to swim. Rp 10.000 per person.

Replace after the frenetic atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 20:15 onwards. After the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men.

Rent a scooter to get around. Scooters cost about Rp 80,000 -100,000 per day. Petrol is approx Rp 9,000 per liter as of June 2017.

Do visit the west! Especially the viewpoint at the northwest tip called Pantai Batu Hoda. Very chill place with a couple of huts to relax and have coffee in. It's away from the roads and bustle of touristic jet skis.

Get to the viewpoint in the northeast, after Tomok near Latihan Paralayang, for a good accessible view over the lakes while up on the hills. Take a right fork after passing Tomok town. Roads are good. The road on the left fork is not paved.

Fishing Rental of a fishing rod (Rp 120,000 including bait) is possible.

The adventurous travelers may find many opportunity to explore the wilderness. Lake Toba offers plenty of rainforest with hills and mountains. Unless you are an experienced trekker and know what you are doing, a guide is recommended.

  • Pusuk Buhit, Sianjur - Pangururan. A sacred mountain for Batak people, legend said that the Batak people's origin is from this mountain. With a height of 1982 m, this mountain is the most accessible mountain to be climbed around Lake Toba. The climbing is easy and can be completed in less than a day. Climb from just after midnight to time your arrival at summit before sunrise to get best experience.
  • Sibuatan, Merek (From Merek, head to village of Naga Lingga as start point. Highest mountain in North Sumatra with a height of 2457 m. Located in northern part of Lake Toba, the mountain is covered in thick rainforest. A guide is needed and the climb is hard. Not very popular with climbers. Usual climb will take 2 days.
  • Water scooters. with a guide on-board (150,000Rp per half hour.
  • Speed boat rides. Private boat to Tomok or Tuktuk costs Rp 700,000 and takes 10 minutes.
  • Kiddle ride. Self paddle "kiddle ride" boats for Rp 40,000 per hour.
  • Rafting. Rafting in Parhitean: Asahan River is a river in North Sumatra which flows from Lake Toba. This river passes Porsea, district Asahan, and ends at Nibung Gulf, the Strait of Malacca. The river is 150 km in length and passes through the valleys of the Barisan Mountains. The Asahan River, especially around the Tangga village, flows around 120 m / sec with grade IV-V + and has an average depth of 5 m: it is considered very challenging by whitewater rafting enthusiasts.

  • World Heritage Minimini, +62 81370181202. The government has promoted development of several fish farms, using dugout lakes, far from Lake Toba, to prevent its contamination. One of these new farms uses a unique sustainable development technique, using the surplus of plankton to fertilize the 5,000 fruit trees planted around the 26 dugout lakes. Camping sites, gardens, golf 19-20, badminton, mölkky, geocaching, a heliport and world heritage replicas have been laid out around the lakes without cutting the pre-existing trees in this valley. Actually, the Government already controls the situation and many new fish farms are opening away from Lake Toba. One of these new farms "World Heritage minimini" which is managed by a Community Organism welcome ecotourism tourism. World Heritage minimini uses, for fish farming, a sustainable-development technique (1000 years), unique in the world, taking excess-plankton-annually-to-fertilize-fruit-trees. 5 000 fruit trees were planted around the 26 dugout lakes.

World Heritage Minimini, +62 81370181202. The government has promoted development of several fish farms, using dugout lakes, far from Lake Toba, to prevent its contamination. One of these new farms uses a unique sustainable development technique, using the surplus of plankton to fertilize the 5,000 fruit trees planted around the 26 dugout lakes. Camping sites, gardens, golf 19-20, badminton, mölkky, geocaching, a heliport and world heritage replicas have been laid out around the lakes without cutting the pre-existing trees in this valley. Actually, the Government already controls the situation and many new fish farms are opening away from Lake Toba. One of these new farms "World Heritage minimini" which is managed by a Community Organism welcome ecotourism tourism. World Heritage minimini uses, for fish farming, a sustainable-development technique (1000 years), unique in the world, taking excess-plankton-annually-to-fertilize-fruit-trees. 5 000 fruit trees were planted around the 26 dugout lakes.

Hot springs. The are several establishments at hot springs, most of which also offer accommodations and restaurants. If you stay or eat at the establishment, the entry fee may be free. The water is hot. Locals usually use their hands to get some water out of the pool. Standing in the pool is possible, but you probably won't be able to swim. Rp 10.000 per person.

Pusuk Buhit, Sianjur - Pangururan. A sacred mountain for Batak people, legend said that the Batak people's origin is from this mountain. With a height of 1982 m, this mountain is the most accessible mountain to be climbed around Lake Toba. The climbing is easy and can be completed in less than a day. Climb from just after midnight to time your arrival at summit before sunrise to get best experience.

Sibuatan, Merek (From Merek, head to village of Naga Lingga as start point. Highest mountain in North Sumatra with a height of 2457 m. Located in northern part of Lake Toba, the mountain is covered in thick rainforest. A guide is needed and the climb is hard. Not very popular with climbers. Usual climb will take 2 days.

Water scooters. with a guide on-board (150,000Rp per half hour.

Speed boat rides. Private boat to Tomok or Tuktuk costs Rp 700,000 and takes 10 minutes.

Kiddle ride. Self paddle "kiddle ride" boats for Rp 40,000 per hour.

Rafting. Rafting in Parhitean: Asahan River is a river in North Sumatra which flows from Lake Toba. This river passes Porsea, district Asahan, and ends at Nibung Gulf, the Strait of Malacca. The river is 150 km in length and passes through the valleys of the Barisan Mountains. The Asahan River, especially around the Tangga village, flows around 120 m / sec with grade IV-V + and has an average depth of 5 m: it is considered very challenging by whitewater rafting enthusiasts.

The main road around Tuktuk is lined with small restaurants of varying quality. Also on offer is magic mushroom and various "happy herb" pizzas if you want that.

Most restaurants in Parapat are located either on the main road or in hotels. The hotels offer some western dishes, whereas the local restaurants are either Batak (pork may be present) or Minang/Padang (Muslim). Many hotels will include a basic Indonesian breakfast of coffee and either fried rice (nasi goreng) or fried noodles (mee goreng)

  • Cotney Restaurant. Rendangs, curries. Internet is available at a reasonable local price.
  • Jenny's Restaurant. Restaurant with view of Lake Toba. Curries, fresh lake-fish, steamed or grilled, western food such as schnitzel (breaded pork or chicken chop pan fried). Desserts include fresh papaya that grows in the back-yard or a golden-brown banana pancake with chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of coconut. Once all the guests in the small place with only about 5 tables are fed and happy, Rinto will take the guitar from the wall and entertain his patrons
  • Joe's. A family restaurant with a kind, friendly owner. Chicken à la batak Rp 25,000, banana chocolate cake Rp 80,000 (for a whole cake). Also has fresh vanilla for sale (Rp 70,000 for 100 grams) and motorbike rental.
  • Leo's Restaurant. Batak food, including pork and lake fish with local spices. Large Bintang Rp 35,000, 100 g fish Rp 8,000, served with fried potatoes (one portion of fish is 500 g normally, but they might have bigger ones, too). Family run, used to be one of the first restaurants in Tuktuk, then closed for some time and reopened in 2010 by the son of the previous owner.
  • Marco Polo, Close to the northern tip of Tuk Tuk (Walk north past most restaurants, about 15 min from Carolina. Views and reasonably priced food. Make sure to try the avocado sandwich for Rp 10,000, the avocado tree can be seen from the balcony. The owners are extremely nice and helpful but don't seem to get many customers as they are past the main tourist area.
  • Maruba Restaurant, Tuk-tuk (In between Amberoba Hotel and Rodeo Accommodation. Traditional Batak and Indonesian food and a variety of Western meals such as schnitzels, real homemade burgers, pasta and roast chicken with fresh herb stuffing. Brown bread, burger buns and baguettes baked most days. English breakfast with smoked bacon is delicious. You can order a Batak feast one day (or less) in advance. Some choices are boneless fish curry, ikan na neura (very fresh raw fish marinated with candlenuts, spices & lime juice), napi nadir (a Batak style curry made with grilled chicken), saksang (chopped pork cooked with Batak spices and fresh pig's blood (blood is optional). Also available to order – delicious Lake Toba freshwater lobster (crayfish) at a very reasonable price.
  • Orari Restaurant, Tuk-Tuk (Next to Anju, +62 625 451093. Restaurant with traditional Batak, Indonesian and European cuisine. Spaghetti bolognese, nasi goreng 'special', beef rendang, BBQ fish. Restaurant has a view of the lake. Motorbike rentals also available for Rp 60,000.
  • RM Muslim Suroboyo, Tongging (roadside of the winding road heading down to Tongging. 10AM - 530PM. An alternative to Sitopsi if the latter is packed full. Offer more or less similar menu, price and services.
  • Sitopsi, Tongging (From Tongging market, turn to left and follow the small road. Offer fresh seafood with a very cheap price. You can choose either grilled or fried. Do try the lobster! Very packed with people around lunch time and serving time seems to take forever.
  • Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, +62 625 451318. Free wifi, western-styled food served, the extensive menu is possibly pricier than other options. They have baked goods and European quality natural yoghurt. Fish is caught directly from the lake. from Rp 215,000.
  • Today's cafe, Tuk-tuk (5mins walk from samosir guesthouse. The owner of this small cafe, Juliet, is very friendly. Main meals from Rp 20,000-35,000. Wifi for Rp 100,000 an hour.
  • Mie Pangsit Way 88, Jl. SM Raja No 22, Pangururan (turn right after the bridge to Pangururan, on the right side across Indomaret. Maybe the only Chinese-style food you can found on Samosir island.

Cotney Restaurant. Rendangs, curries. Internet is available at a reasonable local price.

Jenny's Restaurant. Restaurant with view of Lake Toba. Curries, fresh lake-fish, steamed or grilled, western food such as schnitzel (breaded pork or chicken chop pan fried). Desserts include fresh papaya that grows in the back-yard or a golden-brown banana pancake with chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of coconut. Once all the guests in the small place with only about 5 tables are fed and happy, Rinto will take the guitar from the wall and entertain his patrons

Joe's. A family restaurant with a kind, friendly owner. Chicken à la batak Rp 25,000, banana chocolate cake Rp 80,000 (for a whole cake). Also has fresh vanilla for sale (Rp 70,000 for 100 grams) and motorbike rental.

Leo's Restaurant. Batak food, including pork and lake fish with local spices. Large Bintang Rp 35,000, 100 g fish Rp 8,000, served with fried potatoes (one portion of fish is 500 g normally, but they might have bigger ones, too). Family run, used to be one of the first restaurants in Tuktuk, then closed for some time and reopened in 2010 by the son of the previous owner.

Marco Polo, Close to the northern tip of Tuk Tuk (Walk north past most restaurants, about 15 min from Carolina. Views and reasonably priced food. Make sure to try the avocado sandwich for Rp 10,000, the avocado tree can be seen from the balcony. The owners are extremely nice and helpful but don't seem to get many customers as they are past the main tourist area.

Maruba Restaurant, Tuk-tuk (In between Amberoba Hotel and Rodeo Accommodation. Traditional Batak and Indonesian food and a variety of Western meals such as schnitzels, real homemade burgers, pasta and roast chicken with fresh herb stuffing. Brown bread, burger buns and baguettes baked most days. English breakfast with smoked bacon is delicious. You can order a Batak feast one day (or less) in advance. Some choices are boneless fish curry, ikan na neura (very fresh raw fish marinated with candlenuts, spices & lime juice), napi nadir (a Batak style curry made with grilled chicken), saksang (chopped pork cooked with Batak spices and fresh pig's blood (blood is optional). Also available to order – delicious Lake Toba freshwater lobster (crayfish) at a very reasonable price.

Orari Restaurant, Tuk-Tuk (Next to Anju, +62 625 451093. Restaurant with traditional Batak, Indonesian and European cuisine. Spaghetti bolognese, nasi goreng 'special', beef rendang, BBQ fish. Restaurant has a view of the lake. Motorbike rentals also available for Rp 60,000.

RM Muslim Suroboyo, Tongging (roadside of the winding road heading down to Tongging. 10AM - 530PM. An alternative to Sitopsi if the latter is packed full. Offer more or less similar menu, price and services.

Sitopsi, Tongging (From Tongging market, turn to left and follow the small road. Offer fresh seafood with a very cheap price. You can choose either grilled or fried. Do try the lobster! Very packed with people around lunch time and serving time seems to take forever.

Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, +62 625 451318. Free wifi, western-styled food served, the extensive menu is possibly pricier than other options. They have baked goods and European quality natural yoghurt. Fish is caught directly from the lake. from Rp 215,000.

Today's cafe, Tuk-tuk (5mins walk from samosir guesthouse. The owner of this small cafe, Juliet, is very friendly. Main meals from Rp 20,000-35,000. Wifi for Rp 100,000 an hour.

Mie Pangsit Way 88, Jl. SM Raja No 22, Pangururan (turn right after the bridge to Pangururan, on the right side across Indomaret. Maybe the only Chinese-style food you can found on Samosir island.

This area is in a depressed tourist state but is actual a wonderful gem that should be on the world stage. So while some places may look like not much is going on- just go in - and the momentum will build into a fun filled night with new friends. There is one discotheque on Fri and Sat nights - expect the 80s music. Better to drink at your guest house generally. There are a number of fine spots around the Tuk Tuk area to catch a sunset beer. Especially on Saturday night you can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuktuk area.

  • Samosir Cottages. you will provide a wonderful local Batak performance that is a mixture of traditional dances and fantastic drinking songs.
  • Reggae Bar. is perched high up looking over the lake.
  • Hibiscus Bar. on main street is hosted by two wonderful local girls and plays cool tunes.
  • b.caro coffe shop, Haranggaol St. 114, Parapat (5 minutes from down town, 2 minutes from Tigaraja harbour, +62 62541306. Good coffee. 3000 per cup.

Samosir Cottages. you will provide a wonderful local Batak performance that is a mixture of traditional dances and fantastic drinking songs.

Reggae Bar. is perched high up looking over the lake.

Hibiscus Bar. on main street is hosted by two wonderful local girls and plays cool tunes.

b.caro coffe shop, Haranggaol St. 114, Parapat (5 minutes from down town, 2 minutes from Tigaraja harbour, +62 62541306. Good coffee. 3000 per cup.

The local Batak people are very respectful. Some of the local males may try to turn on the charm too much.

A popular way for tourists to get around Samosir Island is to hire a motorcycle Rp 70,000-80,000, a lower rate may be available if rented for a longer period. Care should be taken if choosing this option as the roads around the island are in poor condition and medical services very limited if you have an accident requiring medical treatment.