Khao Lak

Khao Lak (เขาหลัก) is a 20 km long strip of coastal resorts in Phang Nga Province on the Andaman Sea beaches of Southern Thailand, about 100 km north of Phuket Town. When the disastrous tsunami of 2004 struck South Asia, the Khao Lak region was the hardest-hit area in Thailand with over 4,000 fatalities, more than 3,000 more who were never accounted for, and thousands who were injured. It has since made an impressive recovery and is once again a popular tourist destination. Unlike Phuket, the many resorts in the Khao Lak area cater mainly to families and those looking for peace, quiet, and nature.

Khao Lak is a ~20 km stretch of lovely beaches along the Andaman Sea coastline set against a backdrop of jungle-covered mountains. The region is dotted with numerous resorts and tourist facilities.

The name "Khao Lak" translates as "Lak Mountain". The mountain is the centerpiece of Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park.The headland formed as the mountain plunges into the sea near the southern end of the Khao Lak roughly marks the southern boundary of the Khao Lak region.

The attractions of Khao Lak are impressive and many, but they are not flashy. The expanses of lovely uncrowded parks, mountains, roads, and beaches, relatively unspoiled nature, easy access to great off-shore diving, accommodations ranging from luxury to basic, and an infrastructure that supports tourism, but not at the expense of local customs or the Thai way of life, appeal to an increasing number of visitors.

Compared with a place like Patong, Khao Lak can seem boring, especially during low season (Apr-Nov). If jet skis (forbidden in Khao Lak) or exotic nightlife and its associated attractions are the reason you've come to Thailand, Khao Lak is probably not the place for you. On the other hand, it’s an excellent vacation spot for people seeking to get off the treadmill, for family getaways, and for nature-lovers.

Released in early-2013, The Impossible, a Spanish production (Spanish title: Lo Imposible), recounts the events of the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami. Filmed on location in Khao Lak at the Orchid Beach Resort, it is the story of a family caught up in the events of 26 Dec 2004 and its aftermath. Starring Naomi Watts and Ewan MacGregor, the film incorporates stunning special effects recreating the tragic events of that day and the weeks following. Many Khao Lak residents participated in the filming as consultants or as extras.

The entire Khao Lak region straddles Phetkasem Road (ถนนเพชรเกษม, also Petchkasem Rd or Thailand Route 4 (ทางหลวงแผ่นดินหมายเลข4), one of the four major highways in Thailand. At 1,274 km, it is the longest highway in Thailand, stretching from Bangkok to the Malaysian border.

The centre of the Khao Lak area is 37 km north of the Sarasin Bridge, gateway to Ko Phuket, 76 km north of Phuket International Airport, and 106 km north of Phuket City.

Driving north from Phuket, at km803 you will see a sign for Ban Khao Lak, a small village of little interest. Then, after climbing over Lak Mountain on a curvy road, you will descend into Bang La On, de facto heart of the Khao Lak region.

Khao Lak is laid out like a long strip mall. Early settlement patterns resulted in three population centres spaced out along the beaches. Since the 2004 tsunami, development in low-lying areas has tended to gravitate away from the beach, nearer to the highway.

The region hosts many resorts, scattered chiefly among three main urban areas, all containing businesses identifying themselves as "Khao Lak". This can be confusing to visitors and it is useful to distinguish between the settlements.

From south to north the population centres are:

• Bang La On
• Bang Niang
• Khuk Khak

Bang La On is the most tourist-oriented of the three main Khao Lak towns.

Stretching from km795 to km797, Bang La On is mistakenly called Khao Lak by most visitors. It has many shops, bars, restaurants and banks. Any given group of store fronts seems to consist of a souvenir shop, a tailor shop, a dive shop, a massage parlour, an eyewear shop, and a restaurant. Strolling along the short main town centre in the evening can be quite pleasant as there are pavements.

If you are travelling by bus and tell the conductor you are going to “Khao Lak”, Bang La On is where you will be let off the bus, near the Nang Thong Supermarket. This may be far from your intended destination, so try to be more specific if you are not staying near there.

Just south of the supermarket, Nang Thong Road leads to the town’s beach, Nang Thong.

Webcam: Just north of the Nang Thong Supermarket are the offices of Khao Lak Land Discovery, a local tour organiser. Their webcam is mounted on the roof of their building. It shows you a segment of Rte 4, roughly in the centre of Bang La On. Camera's angle of view is to the southeast.

A couple of kilometres north of Bang La On is Bang Niang. Bang Niang is more “Thai” and less “tourist” than Bang La On. The 7-Eleven at km793.3 roughly marks the town centre.

Bang Niang is not much to look at, but is home to the intermittent outdoor market ("talat nat" ตลาดนัด) that takes place in the centre of the town just south of the 7-Eleven on M-W-Sa, from roughly 13:00 until dark. You will find the market area dusty on dry days and muddy on wet days, so dress down for a visit.

Bang Niang is, increasingly, a centre of Khao Lak's nightlife as it is home to a significant number of the area's most popular bars, discos, and cabarets.

Bang Niang Beach can be accessed by turning towards the sea at the 7-Eleven shop in town centre.

Heading north again from Bang Niang, a couple of kilometres will bring you to Khuk Khak. It is even more Thai and less farang than Bang Niang and is the regional centre for things like hardware, paint, kitchen equipment, etc., i.e., all the infrastructural ingredients that keep the resorts running.

It has the daily “fresh market” ("talat sot" ตลาดสด) and the area’s only real, albeit tiny, bus station.

Khuk Khak Beach can be reached by turning at the signpost just south of km790 or, better, turning at the JW Marriott Hotel sign (km789.1) and following the signs to the hotel, then proceeding past it to the beach.

North of Khuk Khak are Pakarang Beach and Pakarang Cape (km787), Pakweep Beach (km784), and Bang Sak Beach (km780). The latter beach is just ~18 km south of Takua Pa. Pakarang Beach is a beautiful and quiet beach overlooking Cape Pakarang and Andaman Sea beyond. During the high season (November to February), as well as parts of the low season, meals can be bought from nearby food outlets and consumed in the series of huts that have been constructed close to the shore. The setting provides a perfect meditative antidote all year round to the bustle of the Khao Lak area in general.

Navigating Khao Lak can be confusing to visitors because many businesses use their mailing addresses in ads and a mailing address can be very misleading. Almost the entire Khao Lak region (except Ban Khao Lak itself) is located in the Khuk Khak Sub-district of the Takua Pa District of Phang Nga Province. Mailing addresses in the area include both the district and sub-district. Thus a typical address will read: “Moo 3/15, Khuk Khak, Takua Pa, Phang Nga”. This would lead visitors to think that the business is in Khuk Khak. In reality, the business could be located in Bang La On or Bang Niang or Khuk Khak or anywhere else in the Khuk Khak Sub-district. The mailing address is of absolutely no help in finding the business. Be careful when reading tourist brochures as many businesses do not go to the trouble of telling you their physical location.

The climate of the Khao Lak region is under the influence of two monsoon winds of a seasonal nature: a southwest monsoon and a northeast monsoon. The southwest monsoon starts in April when a stream of warm moist air from the Indian Ocean moves inland resulting in significant rain. It peaks in October, Khao Lak’s wettest month. Subsequent months, under the influence of prevailing northeast winds, are much drier.

Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov
4	4	7	15	24	23	21	23	24	22	16	6

In simple terms, Khao Lak effectively has two seasons:

• A rainy or southwest monsoon season (April to October). The southwest monsoon prevails over the region and abundant rain occurs. This is the year’s wettest period.
• A dry or northeast monsoon season (November to March). Dry air moves into the region from China. This is the driest period of the year, with March being the hottest month.

From a tourist’s perspective, the dry season is the ideal time to visit Khao Lak, although rainfall numbers can be misleading. Rainfall in Khao Lak tends to occur in late afternoon/early evening, and is often of short duration. Rainy day statistics count any rainfall during a 24-hour period as a rainy day. Further confusing the issue, rainfall in Khao Lak is often highly localized, i.e., brief showers occurring at one location in the area, while everywhere else remains dry.

• Lampi Waterfall. About 30 minutes south of Khao Lak just off Hwy 4. A very nice waterfall, best viewed in the early morning as the sun rises from behind the mountains and the rays shine through the mist. The falls are only a short walk from the car park, making access easy for all. There is a small shop on-site where you can buy drinks (including tea and coffee), ice cream and souvenirs. There are also toilets on-site. Swimming in the water below the falls is permitted and appears reasonably safe.

Lampi Waterfall. About 30 minutes south of Khao Lak just off Hwy 4. A very nice waterfall, best viewed in the early morning as the sun rises from behind the mountains and the rays shine through the mist. The falls are only a short walk from the car park, making access easy for all. There is a small shop on-site where you can buy drinks (including tea and coffee), ice cream and souvenirs. There are also toilets on-site. Swimming in the water below the falls is permitted and appears reasonably safe.

• Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park, +66 76 485 243. 08:30-16:30. Nice walks and a restaurant. Entrance on the headland between Nang Thong and Khao Lak beaches. Walkable from the resorts in Bang La On. Across the road from park headquarters there is a Buddhist shrine to the Khao Lak (Khao Lak mountain) god. Non-Thai adult: 100 baht; non-Thai, under 14 years: 50 baht. Thai adult: 20 baht; Thai, under 14 years, 10 baht. All children under 3: no charge.

Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park, +66 76 485 243. 08:30-16:30. Nice walks and a restaurant. Entrance on the headland between Nang Thong and Khao Lak beaches. Walkable from the resorts in Bang La On. Across the road from park headquarters there is a Buddhist shrine to the Khao Lak (Khao Lak mountain) god. Non-Thai adult: 100 baht; non-Thai, under 14 years: 50 baht. Thai adult: 20 baht; Thai, under 14 years, 10 baht. All children under 3: no charge.

• Ton Chong Fah Waterfall. 08:00-16:30. Great for hot days. Enjoy a short swim. Very scenic and accessible to all. 100 baht for foreigners/50 baht for children..

Ton Chong Fah Waterfall. 08:00-16:30. Great for hot days. Enjoy a short swim. Very scenic and accessible to all. 100 baht for foreigners/50 baht for children..

• Rainbow Waterfall. Approximately 10 minutes north of Bang Niang by motor-scooter, turn right at road sign, then right again at signpost. Waterfall is particularly vibrant during the rainy season, but swimming in the water-hole is available all year round. Can climb to the top of the waterfall by etching out a path to the right of the fall. Drinks and light food are available at the bottom of the waterfall.
• Cheow Lan Lake and Rachaphrapha Dam. Just 2 hr north of Khao Lak off Hwy 401. Superb views over the lake to the limestone ridges. Boat trips are available to rafts (for overnight accommodation you will need to pre book at Khao Sok National Park HQ or book the trip via a tour agency).
• Khao Sok National Park. Nature activities including jungle trekking on foot or elephant, visiting waterfalls & river rafting/canoeing. Park HQ incorporates small natural history displays of local flora and fauna. A good day out. Accommodations near park HQ available for extended visits. Adults: 200 baht; Children: 100 baht.
• Saori Foundation Centre, Bang Muang (drive north from Khao Lak and Bang Niang to Ban Muang; go through the built up area and a few hundred metres further on you will see on the left an official-looking entrance. Turn left into it and find the Saori workshop on the left.. A women's workshop which develops its own textile designs after a Japanese monk showed tsunami survivors how to weave and earn a living. Visitors are welcome M-Sa.
• Takua Pa Old Town. Takua (ตะกั่ว) in Thai means lead, the metal. Which is odd, because the town was a centre for tin--not lead-- mining in the 1920s and 1930s. Little remains of that era except for some old photos in the Takua Pa Library.
  In the old quarter of Takua Pa you will find Sino-Portuguese architecture and have the chance to wander around the quaint shops (best in the early morning). About 30 minutes drive north of Khao Lak. Takua Pa market and River Plaza are in the new town, near the bus station. There is a typical local market. The plaza has some good shops and a few riverside restaurants.
  On a macabre note, Takua Pa was the centre for relief efforts following the tsunami. The collection/identification point for recovered bodies was located here, and there is reputed to be a cemetery holding the remains of unidentified foreign victims of the disaster.
  A great, alternative way to get to Takua Pa is to turn right at km784 following the signs to the Sai Rung waterfall. The next 17 km will take you on one of Thailand's most lovely roads--no traffic, perfect tarmac, and no hills to speak of (perfect for bicycling). You will come to a T-junction. Turn left to old town Takua Pa, 1 km.

Rainbow Waterfall. Approximately 10 minutes north of Bang Niang by motor-scooter, turn right at road sign, then right again at signpost. Waterfall is particularly vibrant during the rainy season, but swimming in the water-hole is available all year round. Can climb to the top of the waterfall by etching out a path to the right of the fall. Drinks and light food are available at the bottom of the waterfall.

Cheow Lan Lake and Rachaphrapha Dam. Just 2 hr north of Khao Lak off Hwy 401. Superb views over the lake to the limestone ridges. Boat trips are available to rafts (for overnight accommodation you will need to pre book at Khao Sok National Park HQ or book the trip via a tour agency).

Khao Sok National Park. Nature activities including jungle trekking on foot or elephant, visiting waterfalls & river rafting/canoeing. Park HQ incorporates small natural history displays of local flora and fauna. A good day out. Accommodations near park HQ available for extended visits. Adults: 200 baht; Children: 100 baht.

Saori Foundation Centre, Bang Muang (drive north from Khao Lak and Bang Niang to Ban Muang; go through the built up area and a few hundred metres further on you will see on the left an official-looking entrance. Turn left into it and find the Saori workshop on the left.. A women's workshop which develops its own textile designs after a Japanese monk showed tsunami survivors how to weave and earn a living. Visitors are welcome M-Sa.

Takua Pa Old Town. Takua (ตะกั่ว) in Thai means lead, the metal. Which is odd, because the town was a centre for tin--not lead-- mining in the 1920s and 1930s. Little remains of that era except for some old photos in the Takua Pa Library.
In the old quarter of Takua Pa you will find Sino-Portuguese architecture and have the chance to wander around the quaint shops (best in the early morning). About 30 minutes drive north of Khao Lak. Takua Pa market and River Plaza are in the new town, near the bus station. There is a typical local market. The plaza has some good shops and a few riverside restaurants.
On a macabre note, Takua Pa was the centre for relief efforts following the tsunami. The collection/identification point for recovered bodies was located here, and there is reputed to be a cemetery holding the remains of unidentified foreign victims of the disaster.
A great, alternative way to get to Takua Pa is to turn right at km784 following the signs to the Sai Rung waterfall. The next 17 km will take you on one of Thailand's most lovely roads--no traffic, perfect tarmac, and no hills to speak of (perfect for bicycling). You will come to a T-junction. Turn left to old town Takua Pa, 1 km.

With the Similan Islands and Surin Islands, home to some of the best diving in Asia, just offshore, this is one of the main attractions in the area. There are also several local dive sites to choose from and many competent local companies to guide you. Map of Similan Islands dive sites

• IQ Diving, 4/42 Moo 7, Bang La On (across Rte 4 from McDonald's, +66 76 485614 (mobile). Diving & snorkelling in Khao Lak, visiting the Similan Islands, tin barge wrecks, and local sites. Small or large groups, safety focused and family-friendly.
• Khao Lak Explorer, 4/81 Moo 7, Bang La On (across Rte 4 from McDonald's, +66 84 3258106 (mobile). High quality dive centre, providing liveaboards and daytrips to the Similans, Ko Phi Phi and all dive sites in the area.
• Kon-Tiki Khao Lak Diving & Snorkeling Center, 13/128 Moo 7, Bang La On (turn towards sea at the Nang Thong Supermarket [Nang Thong Rd]. ~200 m down on left., +66 76 485378. Established in 1996, Kon-Tiki is one of the longest running dive centres in Khao Lak offering daily dive trips, PADI dive education and liveaboards to the best dive sites in Thailand.
• Manta Point Dive Center, 91/6 Moo 7, Bang La On (adjacent to Dr. Chusak, Krungsri Bank, north end of town, +66 89 8728213. Khao Lak dive safaris since 1999. Liveaboards and scuba day trips to Similan Islands and Richelieu Rock. Similan Snorkel Safaris and PADI dive courses.
• Oktavia Dive Center, 70/4 Moo 5, Bang Niang (200 m past Pinocchio Restaurant towards the beach, +66 83 6340383. Owners and operators of MV Oktavia, one of the largest vessels cruising the Similan Islands for divers, snorkellers and sun-worshippers.
• Sea Dragon Dive Center, 5/51 Moo 7, Bang La On (north end of Bang La On, inland side of Rte 4, 50 m south of The Book Tree, +66 76 485420. 5 Star PADI IDC centre specialising in liveaboards and day trips to the Similan Islands, Ko Bon, Richelieu Rock, and local reefs and wrecks. Established in 1993, Khao Lak's original dive centre now offers 6 different boats and 10 different diving and snorkelling trips. All ages, tastes, styles and budgets catered for. Many languages spoken and small diving groups guaranteed.
• Sign Scuba, 5/11 Moo 7, Bang La On (on main road, near Viking Steakhouse, +66 76 485886. Thai/Euro-run dive centre doing liveaboards, day trips, PADI and SSI courses out of Khao Lak. They've been operating for 20 or so years on the same dive sites so they know their stuff.
• Thailand Dive & Sail, 4/88 Moo 7, Soi Bang La On (on the side street leading to Banana Bungalows near the Viking Restaurant, +66 87 8873878. Reliable, independent information and booking services for scuba diving, snorkelling and sailing trips to the Similan Islands.
• Wicked Diving, Khao Lak, 4/17 Moo 7, Bang La On (on main road, next to Viking Steakhouse in Bang La On, +66 76 485868. Operating liveaboards on 3 and 5 day expeditions to the Similan and Surin Islands. Also offers guided overnight snorkelling tours of the Surin islands in maximum groups of 6 guests.
• Similan Diving Safaris, Nang Thong Road 13/19 moo 7 (take the road next to the Nang Thong supermarket; on the left of this road, about a 100 m walk, +6676485470. 9AM-9PM. Offering 3,4 and 5 day liveaboards to the Similan Islands, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, Surin Islands and Richelieu Rock.

IQ Diving, 4/42 Moo 7, Bang La On (across Rte 4 from McDonald's, +66 76 485614 (mobile). Diving & snorkelling in Khao Lak, visiting the Similan Islands, tin barge wrecks, and local sites. Small or large groups, safety focused and family-friendly.

Khao Lak Explorer, 4/81 Moo 7, Bang La On (across Rte 4 from McDonald's, +66 84 3258106 (mobile). High quality dive centre, providing liveaboards and daytrips to the Similans, Ko Phi Phi and all dive sites in the area.

Kon-Tiki Khao Lak Diving & Snorkeling Center, 13/128 Moo 7, Bang La On (turn towards sea at the Nang Thong Supermarket [Nang Thong Rd]. ~200 m down on left., +66 76 485378. Established in 1996, Kon-Tiki is one of the longest running dive centres in Khao Lak offering daily dive trips, PADI dive education and liveaboards to the best dive sites in Thailand.

Manta Point Dive Center, 91/6 Moo 7, Bang La On (adjacent to Dr. Chusak, Krungsri Bank, north end of town, +66 89 8728213. Khao Lak dive safaris since 1999. Liveaboards and scuba day trips to Similan Islands and Richelieu Rock. Similan Snorkel Safaris and PADI dive courses.

Oktavia Dive Center, 70/4 Moo 5, Bang Niang (200 m past Pinocchio Restaurant towards the beach, +66 83 6340383. Owners and operators of MV Oktavia, one of the largest vessels cruising the Similan Islands for divers, snorkellers and sun-worshippers.

Sea Dragon Dive Center, 5/51 Moo 7, Bang La On (north end of Bang La On, inland side of Rte 4, 50 m south of The Book Tree, +66 76 485420. 5 Star PADI IDC centre specialising in liveaboards and day trips to the Similan Islands, Ko Bon, Richelieu Rock, and local reefs and wrecks. Established in 1993, Khao Lak's original dive centre now offers 6 different boats and 10 different diving and snorkelling trips. All ages, tastes, styles and budgets catered for. Many languages spoken and small diving groups guaranteed.

Sign Scuba, 5/11 Moo 7, Bang La On (on main road, near Viking Steakhouse, +66 76 485886. Thai/Euro-run dive centre doing liveaboards, day trips, PADI and SSI courses out of Khao Lak. They've been operating for 20 or so years on the same dive sites so they know their stuff.

Thailand Dive & Sail, 4/88 Moo 7, Soi Bang La On (on the side street leading to Banana Bungalows near the Viking Restaurant, +66 87 8873878. Reliable, independent information and booking services for scuba diving, snorkelling and sailing trips to the Similan Islands.

Wicked Diving, Khao Lak, 4/17 Moo 7, Bang La On (on main road, next to Viking Steakhouse in Bang La On, +66 76 485868. Operating liveaboards on 3 and 5 day expeditions to the Similan and Surin Islands. Also offers guided overnight snorkelling tours of the Surin islands in maximum groups of 6 guests.

Similan Diving Safaris, Nang Thong Road 13/19 moo 7 (take the road next to the Nang Thong supermarket; on the left of this road, about a 100 m walk, +6676485470. 9AM-9PM. Offering 3,4 and 5 day liveaboards to the Similan Islands, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, Surin Islands and Richelieu Rock.

• Mountain View Driving Range. Irregular hours. Opens early, stays open until at least dark or until last customers leave. Beautiful mountain valley setting and modern facility. Its remoteness means it does not see a lot of activity. You may have to struggle to find someone to take your money.
• Tublamu Navy Golf Course, +66 764 4328807. 07:00-21:00. In the 1990s the Royal Thai Navy constructed an 18-hole, par 72, 7,160 yd golf course on their naval base here, hard by the ocean. It is now open to the public. Has a small pro shop, snack bar, and restaurant. Greens fee: 1,600 baht (half price on Mondays and Thursdays); club rental: 1,000 baht; Shoes rental: 100 baht; caddy fee: 220 baht; golf cart: 400 baht for 1 person, 600 baht for 2 persons..

Mountain View Driving Range. Irregular hours. Opens early, stays open until at least dark or until last customers leave. Beautiful mountain valley setting and modern facility. Its remoteness means it does not see a lot of activity. You may have to struggle to find someone to take your money.

Tublamu Navy Golf Course, +66 764 4328807. 07:00-21:00. In the 1990s the Royal Thai Navy constructed an 18-hole, par 72, 7,160 yd golf course on their naval base here, hard by the ocean. It is now open to the public. Has a small pro shop, snack bar, and restaurant. Greens fee: 1,600 baht (half price on Mondays and Thursdays); club rental: 1,000 baht; Shoes rental: 100 baht; caddy fee: 220 baht; golf cart: 400 baht for 1 person, 600 baht for 2 persons..

Khao Lak is the most convenient point from which to go snorkelling in the Surin and Similan Islands, which offer some of Thailand's best coral and fish diversity and numbers. It takes usually 1-2 hours by speedboat to get to the islands. Several companies offer 1/2/3 day tours.

• Andaman Snorkel Discovery, 5/52 Moo 7, Khuk Khak. Offers a 3 day/3 night snorkelling liveaboard trip to Similan Islands & Ko Bon & Ko Tachai & Surin Islands. This mix is absolutely unique for snorkellers.
• Fantastic Similan Travel, 40/9 Moo 6, Khuk Khak, +66 76 485998. A popular and well-organised company offering snorkelling to the Similan Islands with a fleet of 4 boats. Thai-owned and managed with good reviews on travel forums. Bookable through the website or at tour shops locally. 3,200 (adults)/2,200 baht (children).
• Khao Lak Land Discovery, 21/5 Moo 7, Bang La On (just south of the Discovery Cafe, central Bang La On, +66 76 485411. Professionally operated and guided snorkelling tours (day trips and overnight) to Similan and Surin Islands with German, Swedish, and English guides.
• Sea Star, 5/12 Moo 7, Khuk Khak, +66 76 485595. Specialised in snorkelling in the Tachai Islands.
• Similan Tour, 1/6 Khao Lak, Lam Kaen (south of Khao Lak in Lam Kaen, +66 76 443258. A very well-organised snorkelling-only liveaboard for 3 days/2 nights, departing Tuesdays and Fridays. Swedish management who also run the Poseidon Bungalows. From 2018 the tour goes to Surin Islands instead. 9900 baht.

Andaman Snorkel Discovery, 5/52 Moo 7, Khuk Khak. Offers a 3 day/3 night snorkelling liveaboard trip to Similan Islands & Ko Bon & Ko Tachai & Surin Islands. This mix is absolutely unique for snorkellers.

Fantastic Similan Travel, 40/9 Moo 6, Khuk Khak, +66 76 485998. A popular and well-organised company offering snorkelling to the Similan Islands with a fleet of 4 boats. Thai-owned and managed with good reviews on travel forums. Bookable through the website or at tour shops locally. 3,200 (adults)/2,200 baht (children).

Khao Lak Land Discovery, 21/5 Moo 7, Bang La On (just south of the Discovery Cafe, central Bang La On, +66 76 485411. Professionally operated and guided snorkelling tours (day trips and overnight) to Similan and Surin Islands with German, Swedish, and English guides.

Sea Star, 5/12 Moo 7, Khuk Khak, +66 76 485595. Specialised in snorkelling in the Tachai Islands.

Similan Tour, 1/6 Khao Lak, Lam Kaen (south of Khao Lak in Lam Kaen, +66 76 443258. A very well-organised snorkelling-only liveaboard for 3 days/2 nights, departing Tuesdays and Fridays. Swedish management who also run the Poseidon Bungalows. From 2018 the tour goes to Surin Islands instead. 9900 baht.

• OneTwoSurf, 67/139 Moo 5, Bang Niang Beach (go towards beach on Bang Niang Beach Road to Soi Jerung and turn right, +66 71 921085. 08:00-22:00. Board rentals and surfing lessons with a certified instructor. Surf Safari packages taking you to the best breaks in the area with lodging and airport pickup available from May to November. 400 baht.
• Pakarang Surf Shop, 28/5 Moo 7, Khuk Khak (turn towards sea at km788.1, near Cape Pakarang, follow signs 3 km, +66 76 485350. 09:00-17:00. Surf shop in Khao Lak. Board rental and good surf spot. 3 breaks on Cape Pakarang plus good beach breaks around Khao Lak. 300 baht/hr.

OneTwoSurf, 67/139 Moo 5, Bang Niang Beach (go towards beach on Bang Niang Beach Road to Soi Jerung and turn right, +66 71 921085. 08:00-22:00. Board rentals and surfing lessons with a certified instructor. Surf Safari packages taking you to the best breaks in the area with lodging and airport pickup available from May to November. 400 baht.

Pakarang Surf Shop, 28/5 Moo 7, Khuk Khak (turn towards sea at km788.1, near Cape Pakarang, follow signs 3 km, +66 76 485350. 09:00-17:00. Surf shop in Khao Lak. Board rental and good surf spot. 3 breaks on Cape Pakarang plus good beach breaks around Khao Lak. 300 baht/hr.

• Body Balance Gym, 65/5 Moo 3, Khuk Khak (on the inland side of the road at the south end of Khuk Khak, ~km791.7, +66 76 486544. Daily 07:00-11:00 and 15:00-22:00 except Sa when it is closed in the morning. Thai-run gym featuring most of the equipment one expects. Includes a small cafe serving healthy drinks and coffee. No air-conditioning. No Wi-Fi. Just south of the gym there is a small reservoir with surrounding 1 km hard surface path that is great for walking/jogging. 1 visit, 85 baht; 1 month, 950 baht; 1 year, 8,000 baht.

Body Balance Gym, 65/5 Moo 3, Khuk Khak (on the inland side of the road at the south end of Khuk Khak, ~km791.7, +66 76 486544. Daily 07:00-11:00 and 15:00-22:00 except Sa when it is closed in the morning. Thai-run gym featuring most of the equipment one expects. Includes a small cafe serving healthy drinks and coffee. No air-conditioning. No Wi-Fi. Just south of the gym there is a small reservoir with surrounding 1 km hard surface path that is great for walking/jogging. 1 visit, 85 baht; 1 month, 950 baht; 1 year, 8,000 baht.

• Foundation for Education and Development (FED), Rte 4, north Khuk Khak (km790, Khuk Khak, +66 76 486351. 09:00-17:00. FED, a Burmese/Thai NGO, came to Khao Lak to help the many thousands of displaced Burmese migrant workers in the aftermath of the 2004 tsunami. The organisation has been doing stellar work in the area ever since: educating children, supporting women's rights, providing medical and legal assistance. If you have at least a month to give, helping this group help others might prove to be the highlight of your stay in Thailand.

Foundation for Education and Development (FED), Rte 4, north Khuk Khak (km790, Khuk Khak, +66 76 486351. 09:00-17:00. FED, a Burmese/Thai NGO, came to Khao Lak to help the many thousands of displaced Burmese migrant workers in the aftermath of the 2004 tsunami. The organisation has been doing stellar work in the area ever since: educating children, supporting women's rights, providing medical and legal assistance. If you have at least a month to give, helping this group help others might prove to be the highlight of your stay in Thailand.

• 7-Eleven Shops, located throughout the region. 24/7. There are six 7-Elevens in the Khao Lak region. They are very useful as navigational aids as well as convenient places to purchase mobile phone SIM cards, additional airtime for your mobile phone, liquor and beer, and sundry items.
  There are two 7-Elevens in Bang La On, one in Bang Niang (km793.3), two in Khuk Khak (km791.2), and one at the turn for Parkarang Cape (km787). Several things are worth noting: 1) 7-Elevens will sell alcohol only between the hours of 11:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 24:00. This is irregularly enforced. On religious holidays there will be no alcohol sales at any time. Holidays can last for several days. Smaller corner shops will be happy to sell you alcohol anytime they are open. 2) The northern Khuk Khak 7-Eleven, located at the PTT gas station (km790.5), does not sell any alcohol. This is true for all convenience stores adjacent to gas stations in Thailand. 3) All 7-Elevens have ATMs adjacent to their entrance. Doubly convenient, as you will get 1,000 baht notes from the machine. Use them for purchases in the 7-Eleven, as smaller shops frequently have difficulty making change.
• Bang Niang Market, Central Bang Niang (just south of the Bang Niang 7-Eleven. M-W-Sa 13:00-dark. Outdoor market held 3 days per week. One section of the market sells fresh fish, meat, vegetables, and fruit. Another section sells prepared foods like barbecued chicken and corn on the cob. The remainder of the market stalls sell clothing, luggage, DVDs, games, kitchen ware, souvenirs, sunglasses, etc. All at knock down prices if you haggle, as is expected. There are at least three bars on the market grounds where you can buy a beer and take in the passing scene.
• Fresh Market, Central Khuk Khak (find the 7-Eleven in central Khuk Khak, turn at the road adjacent to it, proceed 2 blocks. Daily 04:30-16:00. This is the market where all the smaller restaurateurs from the area procure their foodstuffs: fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, and so forth. Some small storefronts around the market specialise in foreign foods such as salami, butter, cheese, frozen foods, olive oil, as well as sell frozen beef steaks, lamb, lobsters, and other exotics. On M-W-Sa, when the Bang Niang Market takes place, this market appears to shut down about 13:00, when the vendors move to the other marketplace. The government bus station, BKS, is located here at the NW corner of the square.
• Mark One Tailor, 4/146 Moo 7, Khaolak Center.

7-Eleven Shops, located throughout the region. 24/7. There are six 7-Elevens in the Khao Lak region. They are very useful as navigational aids as well as convenient places to purchase mobile phone SIM cards, additional airtime for your mobile phone, liquor and beer, and sundry items.
There are two 7-Elevens in Bang La On, one in Bang Niang (km793.3), two in Khuk Khak (km791.2), and one at the turn for Parkarang Cape (km787). Several things are worth noting: 1) 7-Elevens will sell alcohol only between the hours of 11:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 24:00. This is irregularly enforced. On religious holidays there will be no alcohol sales at any time. Holidays can last for several days. Smaller corner shops will be happy to sell you alcohol anytime they are open. 2) The northern Khuk Khak 7-Eleven, located at the PTT gas station (km790.5), does not sell any alcohol. This is true for all convenience stores adjacent to gas stations in Thailand. 3) All 7-Elevens have ATMs adjacent to their entrance. Doubly convenient, as you will get 1,000 baht notes from the machine. Use them for purchases in the 7-Eleven, as smaller shops frequently have difficulty making change.

Bang Niang Market, Central Bang Niang (just south of the Bang Niang 7-Eleven. M-W-Sa 13:00-dark. Outdoor market held 3 days per week. One section of the market sells fresh fish, meat, vegetables, and fruit. Another section sells prepared foods like barbecued chicken and corn on the cob. The remainder of the market stalls sell clothing, luggage, DVDs, games, kitchen ware, souvenirs, sunglasses, etc. All at knock down prices if you haggle, as is expected. There are at least three bars on the market grounds where you can buy a beer and take in the passing scene.

Fresh Market, Central Khuk Khak (find the 7-Eleven in central Khuk Khak, turn at the road adjacent to it, proceed 2 blocks. Daily 04:30-16:00. This is the market where all the smaller restaurateurs from the area procure their foodstuffs: fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, and so forth. Some small storefronts around the market specialise in foreign foods such as salami, butter, cheese, frozen foods, olive oil, as well as sell frozen beef steaks, lamb, lobsters, and other exotics. On M-W-Sa, when the Bang Niang Market takes place, this market appears to shut down about 13:00, when the vendors move to the other marketplace. The government bus station, BKS, is located here at the NW corner of the square.

Mark One Tailor, 4/146 Moo 7, Khaolak Center.

• O'Rendez-vous, 5/42 Moo 7, Bang La On (opposite Andaburi Resort, next to Sea Dragon Dive Centre, +66 83 5908002. 16:00 till late. Thai and French cuisine with a big choice of international dishes, nice atmosphere and multilingual service. The place also serves as a bar with a local expatriate crowd, offering a variety of music including soul/jazz/lounge in the early hours. Cocktails, free Wi-Fi and shisha. Closed in low season. Main dishes from 90-420 baht.

O'Rendez-vous, 5/42 Moo 7, Bang La On (opposite Andaburi Resort, next to Sea Dragon Dive Centre, +66 83 5908002. 16:00 till late. Thai and French cuisine with a big choice of international dishes, nice atmosphere and multilingual service. The place also serves as a bar with a local expatriate crowd, offering a variety of music including soul/jazz/lounge in the early hours. Cocktails, free Wi-Fi and shisha. Closed in low season. Main dishes from 90-420 baht.

• Green Pepper, 67/145 Moo 5, Bang Niang (turn towards sea at 7-Eleven [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd], go c. 300 m. At the sign for the restaurant, turn left, +66 85 6557626. 16:00 until late. Thai seafood and western cuisine. Also cooking classes where you can accompany instructors to the market and select the food that you will cook personally.
• Hill Tribe Restaurant, 13/22 Moo 6, Bang Niang (next to RT Hotel, 500 m south of the market, +66 86 2830933. Thai food including dishes from north Thailand. Decorated with original items from Chiang Rai.
• Ingfah, Bang Niang Beach (across from Casa de La Flora, +66 76 42899. 17:00-01:00. Traditional Thai food in an ultra-modern, chic, open-air setting. Glass of beer: 50 baht; Prix fixe meals at 350, 450, 600 baht.
• Khao Niau, Sea side of Rte 4, central Bang Niang (opposite the Tsunami Police Boat, just south of the local market, +66 89 9992380. 12:30-22:00. Closed on the 16th of every month. Thai food, including dishes from Isaan. Menu in Thai/German/English. Cooking classes, good food. Wi-Fi. khao pat gai: 90 baht; pad Thai Gai, 90 baht; yam talay, 120 baht; large beer, 90 baht.
• Lucky Seafood, 60/18 Moo 5, Bang Niang (find the 7-Eleven on the main road. Restaurant is about 100 m behind it on road to the sea, +66 83 6399731. 14:00-22:00. Very clean restaurant with an extensive Thai/Western menu. Run by a Thai lady along with her Swedish husband and her sisters. Excellent, ample portions. Prices typical for Thai restaurants serving a tourist clientèle. Full bar. No Wi-Fi. Open most of the year.
• Pinocchio Restaurant, 67/1 Moo 7, Bang Niang (turn towards sea at 7-Eleven [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd], go ~400 m. Restaurant on the right., +66 89 9232395. Italian restaurant open all year.
• Rusty Pelican Mexican Café, 67/193, Bang Niang Beach Rd [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd] (Turn towards the beach at 7-Eleven in Bang Niang, 300 m down the road on the left., +66 87 192-1085. Kitchen open 14:00-22:00. Home-made Mexican cuisine using the freshest ingredients available. Full bar, frozen cocktails, and ice-cold beer. Family friendly with good music and a free pool table.
• Takieng Restaurant, 26/43 Moo 5, Bang Niang (just north of the Police Boat on the same side of Rte 4. Decorated with many items brought from the owners home town in northern Thailand. Open most of the year.

Green Pepper, 67/145 Moo 5, Bang Niang (turn towards sea at 7-Eleven [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd], go c. 300 m. At the sign for the restaurant, turn left, +66 85 6557626. 16:00 until late. Thai seafood and western cuisine. Also cooking classes where you can accompany instructors to the market and select the food that you will cook personally.

Hill Tribe Restaurant, 13/22 Moo 6, Bang Niang (next to RT Hotel, 500 m south of the market, +66 86 2830933. Thai food including dishes from north Thailand. Decorated with original items from Chiang Rai.

Ingfah, Bang Niang Beach (across from Casa de La Flora, +66 76 42899. 17:00-01:00. Traditional Thai food in an ultra-modern, chic, open-air setting. Glass of beer: 50 baht; Prix fixe meals at 350, 450, 600 baht.

Khao Niau, Sea side of Rte 4, central Bang Niang (opposite the Tsunami Police Boat, just south of the local market, +66 89 9992380. 12:30-22:00. Closed on the 16th of every month. Thai food, including dishes from Isaan. Menu in Thai/German/English. Cooking classes, good food. Wi-Fi. khao pat gai: 90 baht; pad Thai Gai, 90 baht; yam talay, 120 baht; large beer, 90 baht.

Lucky Seafood, 60/18 Moo 5, Bang Niang (find the 7-Eleven on the main road. Restaurant is about 100 m behind it on road to the sea, +66 83 6399731. 14:00-22:00. Very clean restaurant with an extensive Thai/Western menu. Run by a Thai lady along with her Swedish husband and her sisters. Excellent, ample portions. Prices typical for Thai restaurants serving a tourist clientèle. Full bar. No Wi-Fi. Open most of the year.

Pinocchio Restaurant, 67/1 Moo 7, Bang Niang (turn towards sea at 7-Eleven [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd], go ~400 m. Restaurant on the right., +66 89 9232395. Italian restaurant open all year.

Rusty Pelican Mexican Café, 67/193, Bang Niang Beach Rd [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd] (Turn towards the beach at 7-Eleven in Bang Niang, 300 m down the road on the left., +66 87 192-1085. Kitchen open 14:00-22:00. Home-made Mexican cuisine using the freshest ingredients available. Full bar, frozen cocktails, and ice-cold beer. Family friendly with good music and a free pool table.

Takieng Restaurant, 26/43 Moo 5, Bang Niang (just north of the Police Boat on the same side of Rte 4. Decorated with many items brought from the owners home town in northern Thailand. Open most of the year.

• Mama's Greeting, On the beach (JW Marriott Khao Lak beachfront. Turn right and walk about 300 m. Last restaurant of a string of restaurants and massage shops. 09:00-21:00. Cute, clean, and pleasant spot with Thai and Western food and an accommodating staff.
• Phen Restaurant, Khuk Khak Beach (first restaurant to the right (facing sea) of the JW Marriott Hotel beach. 09:00-22:00 daily. Thai and seafood beach restaurant with a wide range of tasty dishes. It has very nice sunset views and an informal and friendly atmosphere. Tour information from the owner, Mrs. Phen. Sunchairs, parasols, shower, traditional Thai massage, and taxi service available.
• Pizza Pasta & Steak, Khuk Khak (across from Khuk Khak 7-Eleven on the sea side of road, +66 87 2693928. 10:30-22:00, closed W. Small restaurant run by Thai couple, one of whom is a former chef at Le Meridien. Pasta made on the premises. Portions are small by Western standards, but so are the prices: the most expensive thing on the menu is T-bone steak 180 baht. Pizzas, albeit tiny, (120 baht) and salads are terrific. No Wi-Fi. Caveat: there is a restaurant of the same name almost directly across the road.

Mama's Greeting, On the beach (JW Marriott Khao Lak beachfront. Turn right and walk about 300 m. Last restaurant of a string of restaurants and massage shops. 09:00-21:00. Cute, clean, and pleasant spot with Thai and Western food and an accommodating staff.

Phen Restaurant, Khuk Khak Beach (first restaurant to the right (facing sea) of the JW Marriott Hotel beach. 09:00-22:00 daily. Thai and seafood beach restaurant with a wide range of tasty dishes. It has very nice sunset views and an informal and friendly atmosphere. Tour information from the owner, Mrs. Phen. Sunchairs, parasols, shower, traditional Thai massage, and taxi service available.

Pizza Pasta & Steak, Khuk Khak (across from Khuk Khak 7-Eleven on the sea side of road, +66 87 2693928. 10:30-22:00, closed W. Small restaurant run by Thai couple, one of whom is a former chef at Le Meridien. Pasta made on the premises. Portions are small by Western standards, but so are the prices: the most expensive thing on the menu is T-bone steak 180 baht. Pizzas, albeit tiny, (120 baht) and salads are terrific. No Wi-Fi. Caveat: there is a restaurant of the same name almost directly across the road.

• Monkey Bar. Hours vary.
• Walker's Inn, 26/61 Moo 7, Bang La On (south end of Bang La On, inland side of Rte 4, +66 84 8402689. 07:00-00:00. Hosts Joo and Andy run this commodious bar-restaurant-lodging house that feels more like being in your living room than in south Thailand. Free pool table, Wi-Fi. Motorbikes for rent for 200-250 baht per day depending on model. Five rooms with air-conditioning are available at 650 baht. Dorm bunks for 150 baht. The restaurant employs a great cook. Representative prices: burger/fries, 150 baht; pizza, 250 baht; pad Thai, 80 baht; khao pat, 90 baht; full English breakfast, 195 baht. Clientèle includes many knowledgeable expats, so this place is great for making connections, asking questions, learning of new places. Beer 60 baht.
• Violet Bar. Small hostess bar with one pool table.

Monkey Bar. Hours vary.

Walker's Inn, 26/61 Moo 7, Bang La On (south end of Bang La On, inland side of Rte 4, +66 84 8402689. 07:00-00:00. Hosts Joo and Andy run this commodious bar-restaurant-lodging house that feels more like being in your living room than in south Thailand. Free pool table, Wi-Fi. Motorbikes for rent for 200-250 baht per day depending on model. Five rooms with air-conditioning are available at 650 baht. Dorm bunks for 150 baht. The restaurant employs a great cook. Representative prices: burger/fries, 150 baht; pizza, 250 baht; pad Thai, 80 baht; khao pat, 90 baht; full English breakfast, 195 baht. Clientèle includes many knowledgeable expats, so this place is great for making connections, asking questions, learning of new places. Beer 60 baht.

Violet Bar. Small hostess bar with one pool table.

• Degree, Rte 4, Bang Niang (sea side of Rte 4, roughly across from Police Boat 813. until 02:00. Thai open-air nightclub featuring live music most nights, if not every night. All will be made to feel welcome. Very casual, come as you are kind of place. No cover charge. Serves beer, drinks, and bottles of whisky. No sign in English, just follow the sound of the music.
• Gecko Bar. Opens ~19:00 in high season, ~21:00 in low. Closes when the party's over. Great late-night bar, run by a very gracious Thai couple, Black and Lin. Pool table, professional Foosball table, a rarity in Thailand, excellent Wi-Fi. Clientèle is a mix of expats and vacationers. Open year-round. Beer 70 baht.
• Jungle Bar and Restaurant, Jerung St, Bang Niang (take the road adjacent to the 7-Eleven towards the beach (Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd). Go ~700 m, turn right across from the Mukdara Resort onto a small soi and travel to the end., +66 81 9682443. 10:00-02:00. Great restaurant for Western and Thai fare at reasonable prices. Serves high quality cocktails. Open year-round. 80-400 baht.
• Mars Bar, Central Bang Niang (across the highway from the Tsunami Museum, ~150 m south of the Police Boat. 9:00-24:00. It's hard to miss the Mars Bar, with its bright orange exterior. And you would not want to miss it. The English proprietor, Mars, runs a great establishment with his Thai partner, Mem. Best coffee in the area and a broad menu that includes home made bread, British staples like bangers & mash, as well as Thai food. Beer & cocktails at very reasonable prices. Great, free Wi-Fi. A favourite feature is the Mars Bar "lending library", a wide collection of mostly thrillers in English, German, Nordic, and other languages. You won't find a more welcoming place in Khao Lak. Open year-round. Beer from 70 baht.
• Mr. Chay Bar, Bang Niang Market (central Bang Niang on the sea side of highway. 14:00-02:00. Mondays, Wednesdays, & Saturdays, are market days in Bang Niang. Vendors sell everything from clothing to fresh shrimp. There are lots of prepared food stalls to choose from too. On the south side of the market, under a large tamarind tree, you will find this very pleasant and reasonable bar, run by Mr. Chay, who speaks serviceable English and German. A good place to stop to enjoy the passing scene. No Wi-Fi. Open year-round.
• Moo Moo Cabaret Show, Central Bang Niang (across Rte 4 from Riverside Guest House, sea side of road, +66 76 486156. Khao Lak's original (tasteful) cabaret show performed exclusively by lady boys. Cocktails, beer, and soft drinks served. Daily show in high season. No entrance charge. Show time 21:45. Closed low-season.
• Rusty Pelican Mexican Cafe, 67/139 Moo 5, Bang Niang Beach (turn towards sea at 7-Eleven [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd], then right on Soi Jerung, +66 87 1921085. 12:00-22:00. Nachos, fajitas, frozen margaritas, and ice cold beer. Tacos, burritos and children's menu. Great music and pool table (competition every Friday night, 20:00). Open for lunch and dinner every day. Free Wi-Fi. 300 baht.
• Song's Bar, Market Fair grounds, Bang Niang (central Bang Niang, behind 7-Eleven on north side of market. Open year-round but hours are variable, opens early evening on market days, M, W, Sa. Funky, open air bar run by Wan. Good music, largely expat clientèle. Very popular, especially on market days (M-W-Sa). Serves bar snacks. Stays open as long as there are customers. No Wi-Fi. Beer: 60 baht.
• Star Bar. Small hostess bar on Rte 4.
• Tha Bar. 19:00-02:00. Small, fun bar run by a Thai lady named Tha. Very accommodating and friendly. Entertaining bar hostesses. Snooker table. No Wi-Fi. Closed during low season (May-Oct).
• Zantika Pub, Rte 4, Bang Niang (north end of Bang Niang, sea side of road, well signposted, +66 76 486411. Gets going around midnight, closes near dawn. The person who came up with the name of this place obviously doesn't know what a pub is, for this place is a disco for sure. State of the art music system and lighting make this place rock out. Popular with young Thais, but always with a solid contingent of farangs present. No entrance charge. Prices are reasonable. Best fun is to go with a group and buy a bottle instead of individual drinks.

Degree, Rte 4, Bang Niang (sea side of Rte 4, roughly across from Police Boat 813. until 02:00. Thai open-air nightclub featuring live music most nights, if not every night. All will be made to feel welcome. Very casual, come as you are kind of place. No cover charge. Serves beer, drinks, and bottles of whisky. No sign in English, just follow the sound of the music.

Gecko Bar. Opens ~19:00 in high season, ~21:00 in low. Closes when the party's over. Great late-night bar, run by a very gracious Thai couple, Black and Lin. Pool table, professional Foosball table, a rarity in Thailand, excellent Wi-Fi. Clientèle is a mix of expats and vacationers. Open year-round. Beer 70 baht.

Jungle Bar and Restaurant, Jerung St, Bang Niang (take the road adjacent to the 7-Eleven towards the beach (Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd). Go ~700 m, turn right across from the Mukdara Resort onto a small soi and travel to the end., +66 81 9682443. 10:00-02:00. Great restaurant for Western and Thai fare at reasonable prices. Serves high quality cocktails. Open year-round. 80-400 baht.

Mars Bar, Central Bang Niang (across the highway from the Tsunami Museum, ~150 m south of the Police Boat. 9:00-24:00. It's hard to miss the Mars Bar, with its bright orange exterior. And you would not want to miss it. The English proprietor, Mars, runs a great establishment with his Thai partner, Mem. Best coffee in the area and a broad menu that includes home made bread, British staples like bangers & mash, as well as Thai food. Beer & cocktails at very reasonable prices. Great, free Wi-Fi. A favourite feature is the Mars Bar "lending library", a wide collection of mostly thrillers in English, German, Nordic, and other languages. You won't find a more welcoming place in Khao Lak. Open year-round. Beer from 70 baht.

Mr. Chay Bar, Bang Niang Market (central Bang Niang on the sea side of highway. 14:00-02:00. Mondays, Wednesdays, & Saturdays, are market days in Bang Niang. Vendors sell everything from clothing to fresh shrimp. There are lots of prepared food stalls to choose from too. On the south side of the market, under a large tamarind tree, you will find this very pleasant and reasonable bar, run by Mr. Chay, who speaks serviceable English and German. A good place to stop to enjoy the passing scene. No Wi-Fi. Open year-round.

Moo Moo Cabaret Show, Central Bang Niang (across Rte 4 from Riverside Guest House, sea side of road, +66 76 486156. Khao Lak's original (tasteful) cabaret show performed exclusively by lady boys. Cocktails, beer, and soft drinks served. Daily show in high season. No entrance charge. Show time 21:45. Closed low-season.

Rusty Pelican Mexican Cafe, 67/139 Moo 5, Bang Niang Beach (turn towards sea at 7-Eleven [Chai Hat Bang Niang Rd], then right on Soi Jerung, +66 87 1921085. 12:00-22:00. Nachos, fajitas, frozen margaritas, and ice cold beer. Tacos, burritos and children's menu. Great music and pool table (competition every Friday night, 20:00). Open for lunch and dinner every day. Free Wi-Fi. 300 baht.

Song's Bar, Market Fair grounds, Bang Niang (central Bang Niang, behind 7-Eleven on north side of market. Open year-round but hours are variable, opens early evening on market days, M, W, Sa. Funky, open air bar run by Wan. Good music, largely expat clientèle. Very popular, especially on market days (M-W-Sa). Serves bar snacks. Stays open as long as there are customers. No Wi-Fi. Beer: 60 baht.

Star Bar. Small hostess bar on Rte 4.

Tha Bar. 19:00-02:00. Small, fun bar run by a Thai lady named Tha. Very accommodating and friendly. Entertaining bar hostesses. Snooker table. No Wi-Fi. Closed during low season (May-Oct).

Zantika Pub, Rte 4, Bang Niang (north end of Bang Niang, sea side of road, well signposted, +66 76 486411. Gets going around midnight, closes near dawn. The person who came up with the name of this place obviously doesn't know what a pub is, for this place is a disco for sure. State of the art music system and lighting make this place rock out. Popular with young Thais, but always with a solid contingent of farangs present. No entrance charge. Prices are reasonable. Best fun is to go with a group and buy a bottle instead of individual drinks.

The tsunami on 26 Dec 2004 devastated Khao Lak. It was the hardest hit area in Thailand, with nearly 10,000 recorded deaths--some 2,000 of them tourists. Since that time the government has installed sophisticated warning systems which were lacking in 2004. In Apr 2012 the system was tested by an Indonesian earthquake and performed flawlessly. Sirens alerted the populace, who were able to move to higher ground with more than 2 hours notice of the impending landfall. Should you hear sirens blaring during your stay, immediately move inland to higher ground. In low-lying areas such as Bang Niang and south Bang La On, the tsunami reached Rte 4 and beyond to a depth of at least 5 m. As an additional precaution, go to the U.N.-sponsored Global Disaster Alert and Coordination System (GDACS) and sign up for an alert which will be sent via SMS to your mobile phone (Thai or other SIM card) or via email to your computer . Register at http://register.gdacs.org/Detail.aspx

• Clinic Dr Amornrut, +66 83 6477053. M-F 17:00-20:30; Su 15:00-20:30; closed Sa. Super clean and efficient single doctor clinic for minor ailments and injuries. Includes small pharmacy. 500 baht doctor's fee + treatment fee typical.

Clinic Dr Amornrut, +66 83 6477053. M-F 17:00-20:30; Su 15:00-20:30; closed Sa. Super clean and efficient single doctor clinic for minor ailments and injuries. Includes small pharmacy. 500 baht doctor's fee + treatment fee typical.

• Thai SIM cards may be purchased at any 7-Eleven shop for 50 baht. They are given away free at the Phuket International Airport (if you arrive at a decent hour). One popular card with good coverage in Khao Lak and Thailand in general is 1-2-Call from AIS, Inc.
• Mobile phones in Thailand have 10 digits, including the leading zero. Land-line telephones have 11 digits, including the leading zero. When calling within Thailand, strip off the country code and add a zero before the number. "+66 76 485762" thus becomes "076 485762".
• Western language books and magazines are sold in the Nang Thong Supermarket and in the area's only bookstore, The Book Tree (Hours: 10:00-20:00).
• International newspapers are distributed in Khao Lak via the NewspaperDirect Network and can be ordered or bought in some local shops and hotels.
• There is a post office at the north end of Bang Niang (inland side of road). Hours: M-F 8:30-16:30, Sa 9:00-12:00. Closed Su. There is another in Lam Kaen, a village about 3 km south of the Khao Lak headland, ~km803.6. Hours are 08:30-16:30 M-F, closed Sa-Su.
• Internet cafe: Coffee & Internet, a shop located on the inland side of Rt 4 in Bang Niang, a few hundred metres north of the Bang Niang 7-Eleven. Open 09:00-21:00. Serves good coffee. Has 10+ desktops loaded with Skype, etc., and a printer available for use on a charge per page basis. 40 baht per hour.
• The government of Thailand actively censors Internet access. 2010 estimates place the number of blocked websites at 110,000 and growing. Roughly 77% are blocked for reasons of lèse majesté, content (content that defames, insults, threatens, or is unflattering to the king, including national security and some political issues), 22% for pornography, which is illegal in Thailand. Some web pages from BBC One, BBC Two, CNN, Yahoo! News, the Post-Intelligencer newspaper (Seattle, USA), and The Age newspaper (Melbourne, Australia) dealing with Thai political content are blocked, as is Wikileaks.

Western language books and magazines are sold in the Nang Thong Supermarket and in the area's only bookstore, The Book Tree (Hours: 10:00-20:00).

There is a post office at the north end of Bang Niang (inland side of road). Hours: M-F 8:30-16:30, Sa 9:00-12:00. Closed Su. There is another in Lam Kaen, a village about 3 km south of the Khao Lak headland, ~km803.6. Hours are 08:30-16:30 M-F, closed Sa-Su.

Internet cafe: Coffee & Internet, a shop located on the inland side of Rt 4 in Bang Niang, a few hundred metres north of the Bang Niang 7-Eleven. Open 09:00-21:00. Serves good coffee. Has 10+ desktops loaded with Skype, etc., and a printer available for use on a charge per page basis. 40 baht per hour.

• Chumphon: A bus (direction: north) comes past the Nang Thong Supermarket in Bang La On at 09:40 and goes to the in-town bus terminal in Chumphon without stopping at the suburban terminal. It arrives there at 16:15. Cost is 260 baht.
• Krabi: It's a bit of a hassle getting to Krabi from Khao Lak. There is rumoured to be a daily minibus. Details are hard to come by. All transport companies in Khao Lak will be glad to drive you there for about 3,000 baht. Cheaper would be to take any bus north to Takua Pa (they all stop at the bus station there), about 50 baht, then transfer to a Krabi-bound bus. Alternatively, take a bus south in direction of Phuket, get off at Khok Kloy and take a bus to Krabi there; that's a bit shorter.
• Pattaya: There is a daily bus that leaves Phuket, travels through Bangkok in the wee hours of the morning, and deposits you in Pattaya in the morning. And vice-versa. This eliminates the hassle of making bus changes, even bus station changes, in Bangkok. There are several complications, however. From Khao Lak, to catch the bus you must either go to Phuket where it originates, or the Kok Kloi junction, about 1 hour south of Khao Lak, where the bus stops about 19:30 each evening. There are also some hassles buying a ticket as well, as you must pay for and pick up your ticket by 15:00 on the day of departure. Cost is 920 baht for a regular seat (36 of them) or 1,226 baht for VIP seating (6 available). See the Sawasdee All Thai Co. website for information.
• Phang Nga: Phang Nga Bay is well known for its limestone karst islands and formations, including one, James Bond Island, that was featured in the film The Man with the Golden Gun. Head for Phang Nga Town, an hour or so southeast of Bang La On. Tours of the bay and boat rentals can be arranged there.
• Phuket: Stand anywhere on the inland side of Rte 4 between the hours of 06:00 and 18:00 and a bus bound for Phuket will be along at least once an hour. Flag it down. Buy a ticket on the bus for ~120 baht. The bus will take you to Phuket City, travel time 2 hours. Change there for Patong and all other Ko Phuket destinations.
• Ranong: The second-rainiest place in Thailand (first is Khlong Yai on the gulf coast and Cambodian border), home of impressive hot springs, and departure point to Ko Chang off the coast.
• Similan Islands: An archipelago of nine islands, the Similans are a protected Thai national park hugely popular among divers owing to the spectacular underwater scenery. Park is open Dec-May, closed to visitors the rest of the year. Local dive companies can arrange visits.
• Surat Thani: Gateway to the gulf coast islands: Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, Ko Tao. Buses bound north for Surat Thani pass through Khao Lak at least once an hour. Flag one down from the sea side of Rte 4. Cost will be about 125 baht and travel time 3-4 hours depending on the number of stops to pick up or deposit passengers.
• Surin Islands: Five stunningly beautiful islands 100 km north of the Similans, 60 km off the coast. Open to visitors from 16 Nov-15 May. Local dive companies can arrange visits.