Kutaisi

Kutaisi is a city in the Rioni Region of Georgia.

Kutaisi is the traditional rival of Tbilisi for capital status. Since the days of the Golden Fleece, Kutaisi has been considered the capital of Western Georgia (then Ancient Colchis). It is Georgia's second largest city, but, to the irritation of the proud locals, it does not come even close to Tbilisi's present size and wealth. Nevertheless, Kutaisi is more respectful of pedestrians than Tbilisi. Its sidewalks are generally even and flat with very few cars parked on them, whereas in Tbilisi pedestrians are often forced into the streets because of cars sitting on sidewalks. Kutaisi drivers generally stop in front of crosswalks to let pedestrians cross, whereas in Tbilisi pedestrians have to be in the middle of the street to get a car to slow down for them.

Since the Georgian Parliament moved to Kutaisi in 2012, there has been a lot of work on restoring streets, buildings, parks and monuments in the city, and it has become much safer. There seems to be a bit more variety in the materials, facades, and designs of the buildings along Kutaisi's streets. In both Kutaisi and Tbilisi a look up to the second floor can reveal balconies of elaborate ironwork. Kutaisi's central park is a nice (and safe) place to sit and watch people. In addition, a visit to Kutaisi is near mandatory to see the Bagrati Cathedral and Gelati Monastery, which are both UNESCO World Heritage sites and offer views from the mountain slopes over the city and the Rioni River.

• Bagrati Cathedral (UNESCO World Heritage site), Bagrati Street (on foot, from Kutsaisi Park (Central Garden), cross the river on the Nino Street bridge. Over the bridge, turn right, cross the street, and look for the stairs that go up the hill. At the top of the hill follow Bagrati Street to the right. Ancient church that was built in the 11th century by King Bagrat III, a symbol of a unified Georgia. Foundations of an earlier building have been found. Blown up by marauding Islamic invaders in the 18th century, then carefully restored over the last 100 years; the interior is also almost completed. The difference between original and replacement is clearly obvious. The ongoing reconstruction aimed at returning Bagrati Cathedral back to its original state as a religious space has led ICOMOS to recommend that it should be left as a ruin and added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in danger. Free admission.
• Uqimerioni Fortress.
• Synagogue, 57-59 Boris Gaponov St.
• St. Thekla church, Daniel Chonkadze St.
• St Elijah the prophet church., Chekhovi Street I.
• St. Cyprian and Justina church, David Agmashenebeli Ave,.
• Parliament of Georgia, Irakli Abashidze St (in the west of the city on the main road to Tskaltubo. Completed in 2012. It was one of the most prestigious projects of President Mikheil Saakashvili to relocate the parliament from Tbilisi to Kutaisi. However, the relocation of Parliament is cancelled by the new government Ivanishvili. In what way this new €50 million building will be used is still unclear.
• White Bridge. Over the river Rioni, known by the bridge Springer scene in the movie "Neobyknovennaja Vystavka"
• Soviet Mural. Amazing.

• Small Local History museum, Rustaveli Ave. and Tesereteli St. corner. 10:00-18:00. with English signs like "pottery shreds" offering very little in-depth information 3 lari.
• Kutaisi Museum of Sport.
• Kutaisi Museum of Martial Art.
• Museum of Zakaria Paliashvili.
• David Kakabadze Fine Art Gallery, 8 Shota Rustaveli Street. Houses collections of the 19th and 20th century artists

Small Local History museum, Rustaveli Ave. and Tesereteli St. corner. 10:00-18:00. with English signs like "pottery shreds" offering very little in-depth information 3 lari.

Kutaisi Museum of Sport.

Kutaisi Museum of Martial Art.

Museum of Zakaria Paliashvili.

David Kakabadze Fine Art Gallery, 8 Shota Rustaveli Street. Houses collections of the 19th and 20th century artists

• Motsameta Monastery. A 11th-century monastery richly decorated with frescoes. On a ridge in between a impressing mountainous region. Has far less tourists than Gelati, but often considered the more beautiful one, due to its interesting location. From along the train tracks you might be able to get a better picture with the hills around the monastery than from within the monastery itself.
• Gelati Monastery, 7, Nazarishvili str (NE 11 km of Kutaisi. There is minibus #33 going to the monastery departing from behind Kutaisi's Meskhishvili Theater (Mari Brosse Street), costs 1 lari, leaves at 08:00, 11:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00 and going back 09:00, 12:00, 15:00, 17:00, 18:20. There is a sign indicating "Gelati" in the wind shield. Alternatively get to Gelati on the Kutaisi-Tkibuli road by train (1 lari) or bus and walk for 2 km from the Gelati stop uphill to the monastery..
• Geguti Palace, Geguti village (S 15 km. One of the few secular monuments of the medieval Georgian kingdom, located on the banks of the River Rioni. It is well preserved and developed for tourism. It's not protected anyhow and thus it's free to enter.
• Vani archaeological site. one of the most important cities of antique Colchi, from 8th-6th century BC have been discovered. The city was destroyed in the 1st century AD.
• Sataplia Nature Reserve. Three main attractions of the reserve - a pavilion with well-preserved dinosaur footprints, karst cave and glass balcony - an observation deck on top of the mountain Sataplia (highest point of the reserve). However, the guides are unsatisfactory since they either only speak Russian or give little information. Read the online reviews before heading here. 17 lari.

Motsameta Monastery. A 11th-century monastery richly decorated with frescoes. On a ridge in between a impressing mountainous region. Has far less tourists than Gelati, but often considered the more beautiful one, due to its interesting location. From along the train tracks you might be able to get a better picture with the hills around the monastery than from within the monastery itself.

Gelati Monastery, 7, Nazarishvili str (NE 11 km of Kutaisi. There is minibus #33 going to the monastery departing from behind Kutaisi's Meskhishvili Theater (Mari Brosse Street), costs 1 lari, leaves at 08:00, 11:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:00 and going back 09:00, 12:00, 15:00, 17:00, 18:20. There is a sign indicating "Gelati" in the wind shield. Alternatively get to Gelati on the Kutaisi-Tkibuli road by train (1 lari) or bus and walk for 2 km from the Gelati stop uphill to the monastery..

Geguti Palace, Geguti village (S 15 km. One of the few secular monuments of the medieval Georgian kingdom, located on the banks of the River Rioni. It is well preserved and developed for tourism. It's not protected anyhow and thus it's free to enter.

Vani archaeological site. one of the most important cities of antique Colchi, from 8th-6th century BC have been discovered. The city was destroyed in the 1st century AD.

Sataplia Nature Reserve. Three main attractions of the reserve - a pavilion with well-preserved dinosaur footprints, karst cave and glass balcony - an observation deck on top of the mountain Sataplia (highest point of the reserve). However, the guides are unsatisfactory since they either only speak Russian or give little information. Read the online reviews before heading here. 17 lari.

Bagrati Cathedral (UNESCO World Heritage site), Bagrati Street (on foot, from Kutsaisi Park (Central Garden), cross the river on the Nino Street bridge. Over the bridge, turn right, cross the street, and look for the stairs that go up the hill. At the top of the hill follow Bagrati Street to the right. Ancient church that was built in the 11th century by King Bagrat III, a symbol of a unified Georgia. Foundations of an earlier building have been found. Blown up by marauding Islamic invaders in the 18th century, then carefully restored over the last 100 years; the interior is also almost completed. The difference between original and replacement is clearly obvious. The ongoing reconstruction aimed at returning Bagrati Cathedral back to its original state as a religious space has led ICOMOS to recommend that it should be left as a ruin and added to the list of [[UNESCO World Heritage Sites]] in danger. Free admission.

Uqimerioni Fortress.

Synagogue, 57-59 Boris Gaponov St.

St. Thekla church, Daniel Chonkadze St.

St Elijah the prophet church., Chekhovi Street I.

St. Cyprian and Justina church, David Agmashenebeli Ave,.

Parliament of Georgia, Irakli Abashidze St (in the west of the city on the main road to Tskaltubo. Completed in 2012. It was one of the most prestigious projects of President Mikheil Saakashvili to relocate the parliament from Tbilisi to Kutaisi. However, the relocation of Parliament is cancelled by the new government Ivanishvili. In what way this new €50 million building will be used is still unclear.

White Bridge. Over the river Rioni, known by the bridge Springer scene in the movie "Neobyknovennaja Vystavka"

Soviet Mural. Amazing.

• Do as the locals do: Sit in the city centre park (Central Garden) and watch the world pass by.
• Torpedo Kutaisi F.C., Giorgi Brtskinavale. See the local football team in a match at the Givi Kiladze Stadium. 2 lari.
• Tskaltubo Spa Resort, 23, Rustaveli ave., Tskaltubo, +995 599-091610. Besides the decaying old building of the old sanatorium, there is this hotel which offers spa and mineral treatments, sauna and massages. Probably a good option when it's raining in Kutaisi. 30 lari for a full treat.

• Lado Meskhisvili Theater, Gelati Street.
• Puppet Theater.

Lado Meskhisvili Theater, Gelati Street.

Puppet Theater.

• Botanical Garden "Kolchuri". Rather small but still nice botanical garden. Some trees has signs in English. There is also interesting chapel built inside the tree. 1 lari.
• Park of Culture and Rest, Vazha Pashavela St.
• Central Garden, Rustaveli Avenue (across from the water fountain with horned animals in the city's main roundabout. A great central location to rejuvinate, observe, meet, and plan.
• Kharazov Park, Solomon Pirveli Street.
• Youth Park, Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Rd..
• Kikvidze Park, Zviad Gamsakhurdia St.

Botanical Garden "Kolchuri". Rather small but still nice botanical garden. Some trees has signs in English. There is also interesting chapel built inside the tree. 1 lari.

Park of Culture and Rest, Vazha Pashavela St.

Central Garden, Rustaveli Avenue (across from the water fountain with horned animals in the city's main roundabout. A great central location to rejuvinate, observe, meet, and plan.

Kharazov Park, Solomon Pirveli Street.

Youth Park, Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Rd..

Kikvidze Park, Zviad Gamsakhurdia St.

Torpedo Kutaisi F.C., Giorgi Brtskinavale. See the local football team in a match at the Givi Kiladze Stadium. 2 lari.

Tskaltubo Spa Resort, 23, Rustaveli ave., Tskaltubo, +995 599-091610. Besides the decaying old building of the old sanatorium, there is this hotel which offers spa and mineral treatments, sauna and massages. Probably a good option when it's raining in Kutaisi. 30 lari for a full treat.

The homemade wine in the bazaar in Kutaisi is apparently not that good, because more than often they mix with sugar and other stuff. This is at least what some locals are saying.

• Bazaar, off Zakhira Paliashvili (Paliashvili V Aly) St (From Kutsaisi Park (the Central Garden) walk towards the river in the direction of the Bagrati Cathedral and then follow the people. In addition to fruits, vegetables, and whole chickens, natural, homemade red wine is sold in Kutaisi's market, bottled in re-used plastic soda pop containers (from 2 lari a bottle). Look for a row of sellers in the first floor of a shabby building not far from the sellers on the street; the wine seller is on one end of this building in a walk-up stall.
• Regular stores, along Tsereteli St..

Bazaar, off Zakhira Paliashvili (Paliashvili V Aly) St (From Kutsaisi Park (the Central Garden) walk towards the river in the direction of the Bagrati Cathedral and then follow the people. In addition to fruits, vegetables, and whole chickens, natural, homemade red wine is sold in Kutaisi's market, bottled in re-used plastic soda pop containers (from 2 lari a bottle). Look for a row of sellers in the first floor of a shabby building not far from the sellers on the street; the wine seller is on one end of this building in a walk-up stall.

Regular stores, along Tsereteli St..

Kutaisi has quite a number of decent restaurants. They are mainly in the city center, but a bit spread out, so just walk around to find what you're looking for.

• Chinese Restaurant. True Chinese cuisine. Owners are obviously Chinese. Offer huge variety of national dishes. It's a bit pricey, however tea comes for free. It's a big surprise to find it in Kutaisi. 10-30 lari.
• Club Almano, On Alexander Pushkin Street between Tamar Mepe and Tsereteli Sts (on Pushkin, across from Flo/Koton mall. theculturetrip.com says Almano "offers Georgian food in a charming European atmosphere. This is a great place to try ojakhuri, a Georgian dish that often appears on the supra (the special Georgian feast) table. It involves meat and potatoes that are roasted and mixed together. You can’t go wrong with the other options on the menu, however, like shashlik, another form of roasted meat, or, of course, the ubiquitous khachapuri. If you want something green on the table, try their starter salads with the delicious Georgian bread". American favorites like club sandwiches and potato wedges are also served. Salads include lettuce. Not the cheapest.
• El Paso. Specialising on Khinkali, but also has other Georgian dishes. Does not seem to charge the 10% service fee. Inexpensive, beer 2 lari.
• El Depo, +995 431244273. Seems to be the same owner as El Paso, hence similar dishes. But more like a pub for the evening though.
• Khvicha. For an authentic experience, where only locals eat, try to go to this place. Do not expect much — it is a dukkan. There is no menu. You can order a tasty soup or khachapuri. Portions are really big. They speak only Georgian and Russian.
• Sudarushka, Clinda Nino st. No. 13, +995 598 29 06 95. 09:00 - 02:00. Authentic Russian cuisine from the owners who know how to cook it right. Food tastes good, big portions, nice personal, Russian music as an accompaniment. Note this place doesn't have English sign on the entrance so just look for a wooden sign (saying სუდარუშკა Сударушка) or a window with a Russian girl in a national costume in it. 3-8 lari per meal.
• Tea House Foe-Foe, Rustaveli St. 5 (Across the street from the Kutaisi opera building, +995 577577533. 10:00-00:00. Free Wi-Fi. Menu: Speciality teas, and Georgian, European, and Mediterranean dishes (main courses, soups, salads, crepes, sweets). This is one of the Althaus-brand tea houses, similar to the two in Tbilisi. It appears that this cafe is in the wide lobby of what was once an office building with multi-tier seating on the steps leading up to the office's main entrance. Floor-to-ceiling windows make watching passer-bys easy. Hip music, hippy vibe, tasty tea, decent food. 5-15 lari, credit cards accepted.

Chinese Restaurant. True Chinese cuisine. Owners are obviously Chinese. Offer huge variety of national dishes. It's a bit pricey, however tea comes for free. It's a big surprise to find it in Kutaisi. 10-30 lari.

Club Almano, On Alexander Pushkin Street between Tamar Mepe and Tsereteli Sts (on Pushkin, across from Flo/Koton mall. theculturetrip.com says Almano "offers Georgian food in a charming European atmosphere. This is a great place to try ojakhuri, a Georgian dish that often appears on the supra (the special Georgian feast) table. It involves meat and potatoes that are roasted and mixed together. You can’t go wrong with the other options on the menu, however, like shashlik, another form of roasted meat, or, of course, the ubiquitous khachapuri. If you want something green on the table, try their starter salads with the delicious Georgian bread". American favorites like club sandwiches and potato wedges are also served. Salads include lettuce. Not the cheapest.

El Paso. Specialising on Khinkali, but also has other Georgian dishes. Does not seem to charge the 10% service fee. Inexpensive, beer 2 lari.

El Depo, +995 431244273. Seems to be the same owner as El Paso, hence similar dishes. But more like a pub for the evening though.

Khvicha. For an authentic experience, where only locals eat, try to go to this place. Do not expect much — it is a dukkan. There is no menu. You can order a tasty soup or khachapuri. Portions are really big. They speak only Georgian and Russian.

Sudarushka, Clinda Nino st. No. 13, +995 598 29 06 95. 09:00 - 02:00. Authentic Russian cuisine from the owners who know how to cook it right. Food tastes good, big portions, nice personal, Russian music as an accompaniment. Note this place doesn't have English sign on the entrance so just look for a wooden sign (saying სუდარუშკა Сударушка) or a window with a Russian girl in a national costume in it. 3-8 lari per meal.

Tea House Foe-Foe, Rustaveli St. 5 (Across the street from the Kutaisi opera building, +995 577577533. 10:00-00:00. Free Wi-Fi. Menu: Speciality teas, and Georgian, European, and Mediterranean dishes (main courses, soups, salads, crepes, sweets). This is one of the Althaus-brand tea houses, similar to the two in Tbilisi. It appears that this cafe is in the wide lobby of what was once an office building with multi-tier seating on the steps leading up to the office's main entrance. Floor-to-ceiling windows make watching passer-bys easy. Hip music, hippy vibe, tasty tea, decent food. 5-15 lari, credit cards accepted.

Kutaisi does not have a great bar or club culture like Tbilisi, but you can checkout the following:

• El Galeon. Specialising on Rock Music.
• Reflector. Saturdays. Associates itself with Bassiani.
• Bude Records. Opens F 23:45. Hip but not posh, if existent.

El Galeon. Specialising on Rock Music.

Reflector. Saturdays. Associates itself with Bassiani.

Bude Records. Opens F 23:45. Hip but not posh, if existent.

The tourist office kiosk between the two main bridges is staffed during the summer season only. Rest of the year it is located in the annex building left to the city hall at the ground floor. (It is a bit hard to find since the mayor don't want to have signs to it. Ask in the city hall if you cannot find it.)

Dingy post office on Tamar Mepe St. Previously existing Internet cafés have closed due to numerous freely available hotspots.

• Batumi – The capital of Ajara and Georgia's third largest city is a pleasant Black Sea port with great Ajaruli cuisine
• Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park (for details see Borjomi) – The largest national park in Georgia. The diversity of physical, geographical and especially climatical conditions of its has shaped the wealth and variety of its flora and fauna. Apart from the largely untouched nature of Borjom-Kharagauli, there are numerous cultural monuments. In particular, there are two easily accessible churches, built in 9th century. Eight tourist trails are operating in the national park. They vary in length, duration and complexity. Open from Apr until October.
• Jvari – A small town with a couple of great attractions nearby, namely Enguri Dam and Silver Lake. The latter is one of the most impressive alpine treks that you can do in Georgia. The marshrutka to Zugdidi leaves from the main marshrutka station behind the central McDonald's. The journey is 133 km. In Zugdidi connect with the Jvari marshrutka just over the bridge and a minute's walk away.
• Mestia – The "capital" of Svaneti and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
• Oni – A very pretty, rustic town on the Rioni River up in the mountains that was for millennia a center of Georgian Jewish culture. Today it is becoming a major tourist destination for domestic travelers as well as attracting adventurous foreign travelers attracted to its natural beauty, remote setting and a local culture that has not seen the effects of tourism yet.
• Tbilisi – The beautiful and interesting capital, Georgia's largest and most cosmopolitan city.
• Tskhaltubo – A balneological ex-resort that was very popular during Soviet times (8 km away from Kutaisi). Many sanatoria are populated with refugees since war with Abkhazia. Destroyed luxury Soviet-time hotels are very interesting places to see.
• Zugdidi – A not very popular city with tourists for itself, however many of them pass through it on their way up to Mestia in Svaneti.

• Tkibuli (ტყიბული) – 08:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 16:40, 17:40. 3½ lari.
• Chkhari (ჩხარი) – 08:00, 12:10, 16:25. 2½ lari.
• Tuzi (თუზი) – 10:25, 17:30. 3½ lari.
• Zeda Alisubani (ზედა ალისუბანი) – 13:40. 2.70 lari.
• Tavasa (თავასა) – 10;00, 15:20. 3 lari.
• Oni (ონი) – 16:25. 10 lari.