Naxos

Naxos (Greek: Νάξος) is the largest in the Cyclades island group in the Aegean Sea and was the centre of ancient Cycladic culture.

The most fertile of the Cyclades islands, Naxos earns much of its income from agriculture. It has a mountainous interior with a great variety of lush green valleys and villages, easily reachable by a well-maintained road system.

The two municipalities of Naxos and Drymalia comprise the island. The largest town and capital is Chora (or Hora) or simply 'Naxos' or 'Naxos Town', with most of the shops and restaurants frequented by visitors.

A number of beach communities extend south along the coast from Chora. The island has stunning Mediterranean beaches with white granite sand.

The port at Chora is too small for cruise ships and too close to the more famous Santorini, saving the island from hordes of tourists. The majority of non-Greek tourists stay in the few beach towns close to Chora, so it is very easy to lose them in the rural centre, or further along the coast. Many wealthy Athenians own houses in the old villages of Halki and Filoti and use the island as escape from the heat of Athenian summers.

The climate of Naxos varies depending on region. The west side is sheltered and flat, getting up to 30 degrees Celsius in the summer. Sea breezes help to prevent it feeling too stuffy directly on the coast. In the centre, the mountains and valleys keep the air temperature cooler. The mountains are high enough that it is rare to have a completely cloudless day, again helping to keep it cool. The rain caused by the mountains keeps the land green and fresh, unlike its rather brown Cycladic cousins. Rain storms are infrequent in the summer, but very heavy, turning marble paths and streets into ice rinks.

English and German are very common in Hora; French and Italian are also spoken by many. Elderly people often only speak Greek, especially in rural central areas. In the villages, expect to have to order in Greek or by pointing.

• Apollo Temple's entrance. The most recognizable landmark and the symbol of Naxos, an iconic 6th century BC marble gate on the islet of Palatia in Naxos harbor. It is the only remnant of a temple dedicated to Apollo.
• The Castro (old, walled city) section, on elevated ground overlooking the harbour. Provides some of the quietest and most photogenic alleyways in town. It was built by the Venetians in the early 13th century and remains one of the few surviving medieval towns in Greece. The area was fortified against attack by locals and pirates.
• Archaeological Museum, +30 22850 22725. W-M 9:00 - 15:30. Well worth a visit, with a good collection of Bronze Age Cycladean artifacts and displays from Neolithic to early Christian times—a good place to get out of the sun. € 2.
• Venetian Museum. Museum is closed since mid-2018 due to ongoing dispute of castle's owners; it's not clear when and whether it will be open again. A well-kept tower house belonging to the Karavias family. Domus festival takes place there from April to the end of October - daily concerts. € 5 for unaccompanied or 35-minute guided tours.
• Chapel of the Duke of Naxos. Roman Catholic Cathedral (13th century), with a display of family crests and ornately painted capitals
• Greek Orthodox Cathedral. Which boasts a wealth of marble ornamentation.

• Folklore Museum, Old Market Street, +30 2285025561. Working hours vary. Private museum with lots of old photos and artefacts. € 3.
• Museum of Naxos Ancient Town. A small museum, built on top of the excavated sites, where an ancient Mycenaean town of the 11th century B.C. was found. Tu-Su 8:30 - 15:00.
• Theatrical museum of Iakovos Kambanelis, +30 2285 023619. M-Sa 11:00–14:00 and 19:00–22:00. Museum dedicated to the poet, playwright, lyricist and novelist Iakovos Kambanelis, born in 1922 in Naxos.

Folklore Museum, Old Market Street, +30 2285025561. Working hours vary. Private museum with lots of old photos and artefacts. € 3.

Museum of Naxos Ancient Town. A small museum, built on top of the excavated sites, where an ancient Mycenaean town of the 11th century B.C. was found. Tu-Su 8:30 - 15:00.

Theatrical museum of Iakovos Kambanelis, +30 2285 023619. M-Sa 11:00–14:00 and 19:00–22:00. Museum dedicated to the poet, playwright, lyricist and novelist Iakovos Kambanelis, born in 1922 in Naxos.

Apollo Temple's entrance. The most recognizable landmark and the symbol of Naxos, an iconic 6th century BC marble gate on the islet of Palatia in Naxos harbor. It is the only remnant of a temple dedicated to Apollo.

The Castro (old, walled city) section, on elevated ground overlooking the harbour. Provides some of the quietest and most photogenic alleyways in town. It was built by the Venetians in the early 13th century and remains one of the few surviving medieval towns in Greece. The area was fortified against attack by locals and pirates.

Archaeological Museum, +30 22850 22725. W-M 9:00 - 15:30. Well worth a visit, with a good collection of Bronze Age Cycladean artifacts and displays from Neolithic to early Christian times—a good place to get out of the sun. € 2.

Venetian Museum. Museum is closed since mid-2018 due to ongoing dispute of castle's owners; it's not clear when and whether it will be open again. A well-kept tower house belonging to the Karavias family. Domus festival takes place there from April to the end of October - daily concerts. € 5 for unaccompanied or 35-minute guided tours.

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos. Roman Catholic Cathedral (13th century), with a display of family crests and ornately painted capitals

Greek Orthodox Cathedral. Which boasts a wealth of marble ornamentation.

The village of Apiranthos stands out among its peers for its marble-paved alleys, arched passages, and four museums dedicated, respectively, to archaeology, folk tradition, geology, and natural history.

• Apiranthos Folk Art Museum, Apiranthos village. Smallish museum with only three rooms, which are intended to look like the interior of a 18-19th century village house.
• Apiranthos Geological Museum, Apiranthos village. Exhibits a collection of over 2000 stones, minerals, and fossils found on the island through various excavations.
• Apiranthos Archaeological Museum, Apiranthos village. Shows findings from various island excavations.

Apiranthos Folk Art Museum, Apiranthos village. Smallish museum with only three rooms, which are intended to look like the interior of a 18-19th century village house.

Apiranthos Geological Museum, Apiranthos village. Exhibits a collection of over 2000 stones, minerals, and fossils found on the island through various excavations.

Apiranthos Archaeological Museum, Apiranthos village. Shows findings from various island excavations.

• Temple of Sangri, Sangri. It's one of the earliest Ionic temples, built around 530 BC. It was built completely from Naxian marble and was probably dedicated to Demeter or Kore. In the 6th century AD, the temple was largely demolished and a three-naved Christian basilica was built from the same stone on the same site.
• Kouros of Apollonas.
• Kouros at the village of Melanes. 6.4 m tall kouros, which dates from the 7th century BC. There is a second kouros statue (the kouros of Faranghi) close by.
• Chimarros Tower, on the way to Kalandos.
• Bazeos Tower, 12th Km of the main road linking Chora with the inland (Halki, Filoti), +30 2285031402. The wonderfully renovated tower, built circa 1600. Which now serves as a space for cultural activities. In 2018 it housed a modern art exhibition by Greek, Indonesian and American artists.
• Panagia Drosiani Church, South of the village of Moni. The island's most important Byzantine monument.
• Vallindras Distillery, Chalki village. A small distillery, established in 1896, used to produce a very famous Citron liqueur. It works as a small museum now, which runs very seldom organised tours, its main focus is selling their liqueurs.
• Eggares Olive Press Museum, Eggares village (8 km from Chora, +30 2285 062021. 1st of April to the 30th of September 10:00–18:00. Tells the history of the olive tree, olive press techniques, as well as other uses of olive oil. Free.
• Temple of Dionysus. Tu-Su 08:00-15:00. The site of the sanctuary was a place for a fertility cult as early as 1400 BC. Several temples was constructed on the site prior to the final temple. Full €2, reduced €1.

Temple of Sangri, Sangri. It's one of the earliest Ionic temples, built around 530 BC. It was built completely from Naxian marble and was probably dedicated to Demeter or Kore. In the 6th century AD, the temple was largely demolished and a three-naved Christian basilica was built from the same stone on the same site.

Kouros of Apollonas.

Kouros at the village of Melanes. 6.4 m tall kouros, which dates from the 7th century BC. There is a second kouros statue (the kouros of Faranghi) close by.

Chimarros Tower, on the way to Kalandos.

Bazeos Tower, 12th Km of the main road linking Chora with the inland (Halki, Filoti), +30 2285031402. The wonderfully renovated tower, built circa 1600. Which now serves as a space for cultural activities. In 2018 it housed a modern art exhibition by Greek, Indonesian and American artists.

Panagia Drosiani Church, South of the village of Moni. The island's most important Byzantine monument.

Vallindras Distillery, Chalki village. A small distillery, established in 1896, used to produce a very famous Citron liqueur. It works as a small museum now, which runs very seldom organised tours, its main focus is selling their liqueurs.

Eggares Olive Press Museum, Eggares village (8 km from Chora, +30 2285 062021. 1st of April to the 30th of September 10:00–18:00. Tells the history of the olive tree, olive press techniques, as well as other uses of olive oil. Free.

Temple of Dionysus. Tu-Su 08:00-15:00. The site of the sanctuary was a place for a fertility cult as early as 1400 BC. Several temples was constructed on the site prior to the final temple. Full €2, reduced €1.

Naxos is well known for its wonderful beaches, some with advantageous winds for prime windsurfing and kitesurfing. Most of the island's west coast is one long sandy beach with crystal clear azure water. The most popular sandy stretches are Agios Prokopios, Agia Anna, Maragas, Plaka, Orkos, and Mikri Vigla, Kastraki, and Alyko.

Heading north will bring you to the beaches of Kalantos, Panormos, Psili Ammos, Lionas, and Apollonas, below the village of the same name.

Other beaches are Amitis, Kalados, Aliko, and Pyrgaki.

Naxos beaches, like those on many Greek islands, offer clothing options. Generally, nude sunbathing is more frequently encountered in southern beach communities that have sand dunes blocking the view from the access road, such as in Plaka. At the end of Plaka beach nearest to Agia Anna, there is a group of rocks and small coves, and this area is excellent for naturists. It is hidden from the road by trees, yet is an easy (300m) walk along a flat beach from the bus stop at Paradiso taverna.

To avoid the crowds, head further south to the crystal clear waters of Mikri Vigla. The locals swim on either side of the causeway to the Portara. The west side is a sheltered shallow bay, with steps and seating built into the causeway. The east side is much deeper, and if the sea is calm you can hold your breath and dive down to ancient columns that have fallen in from the temple. Beware of sea urchins!

The tiny harbours of Lionas and Moutsouna on the east coast are very picturesque and quiet even in the summer months. Both have tavernas and a beach. A newly asphalted road from Moutsouna down to Panermos is also well worth exploring, as it passes by several secluded bays.

Ancient ruins include the Portara gateway, visible from the harbour, and two rather modest half-finished Kouros statues uncovered in a quarry near Melanes (Kouronohori) as well as a larger version near Apollonas on the northern coast. Special attention has been given in recent years to the sites of Dimitra's Temple at Sangri, and Dionysus' temple below Glinado village, where the Ministry of Culture organizes full moon concerts in July and August.

The villages in the centre of the island are older than those around the coast, with Bronze Age origins. They are perched high in the mountainous regions with steep narrow streets to make them defensible against pirates. Halki village is a good example of Greek neo-classical architecture, with its cluster of red roofs. The ancient fishing village of Moutsana was the port from which emery and marble were shipped from the islands.

Head 10 km inland and the island changes from the flat brown swampy landscape of Hora to lush green mountain valleys. Ancient olive and lemon groves surround the small villages, with narrow gorges with terrapin-inhabited streams. The area is still agricultural, with this being the main source of income to the island. Above the groves rise two chains of mountains. The central chain is a moonscape of exposed and weather gneiss, with the village Ano Potamia perched in the middle. Descending from these hills brings you into the secluded valley of Halki, Damarionas and Filoti. Above Filoti rises Mt. Zas (Mt Zeus)—at 1004m, it is the highest mountain in the Cyclades. Its marble slopes rise steeply to an impressive point. The ascent from the north, via Aghios Marina (a rest point with a beautiful view) is easier, with frequent fountains. The ascent from the north is much steeper and more rocky. From the top, it is possible to see Turkey on a very clear day.

For those who love adventure, the island offers many opportunities for active sports.

Bluefindivers Naxos Diving Center, located at Agios Prokopios beach, offers beautiful and safe diving/snorkelling trips around the island.

Excellent conditions are formed among meadows of seaweed (Posidonia Oceanica), sand banks, reefs and vertical cuts along with shipwrecks, not only for marine life but also for the divers/snorkellers who explore them.

Naxos Surf Club do great value taster sessions for sailing-cats, wind surf and kite surfing, in English, Greek and German.

• Aqua Fun Water Park. 3 adult water slides, 3 children slides, kids pool, adults pool, volleyball court.
• Scuba diving with Blue Fin Divers
• Learn sailing on the yacht Annabella during its daily cruises to the Small Cyclades or Paros island
• Naxos Horse Riding Club. Beginners and advanced programs. Dual activities in low season.
• Gokarting at Heart Rock Kartodrome. On the way to Galanados, 3 km from Chora. 10AM to midnight.
• George Fragiskos Yacht Charter. Tours to Rina Cave, Kalandos Bay, Koufonissia Islands, Delos, Rinia Islands, Small Cyclades, Paros island
• Flisvos Sport Club at St George Beach. Windsurfing, watersports, yacht/catamaran sailing, beach sports, mountain bikes.
• Trekking with Naxos Tours. Full and half day tours.

Every village has at least a small supermarket, so self-catering is easy. Hora, Halki and Glinado have decent sized supermarkets.

Only fish and chicken (both frozen) are easily available ready packaged. For red meat, a trip to a butchers is necessary, and an interesting experience for sheltered Northern Europeans. This can be quite entertaining—expect a baby goat tied up outside as advertisement, and to have to point out which bit of cow you'd like to be chopped off (unless you're lucky enough to know the Greek for 'half a kilo of sirloin please'!).

For really fresh eggs and chicken, try hailing the chicken truck. It drives around the island full of crates of live chickens, announcing its presence with loud speakers—it is quite a sight!

Bakeries can be found in most villages, and always worth stopping for, although they often shut at lunch time. Savoury cheese and spinach, spanokopita, baklava, loukoumi (Greek Turkish delight) and amazing sticky syrupy chocolate cake are all worth trying.

• Anna's organic Shop and Garden Café. The first shop on the island of Naxos to offer exclusively biological products. Anna John offers delicious, healthy food, and detailed advice in matters of food and nutrition. It's a very nice place to have breakfast or a snack.
• Fish and Olive. In Halki village. Husband and wife Alexander Reichardt and Katarina Boelsch run this gallery in Halki. Katarina produces ceramics with distinctive moulded olive and frog designs (beware of fakes sold in cheap tourist shops), while Alex paints delicate patterns of fish and animals onto tiles and other ceramics, and designs jewelry. Follow a trip by a piece of chocolate brownie in the cafe opposite.
• Vallindras Distillery. Visit the distillery in Halki and buy their produce. The lemon liqueur might be more appreciated than ouzo or retsina, and is certainly more authentically Naxos.

Anna's organic Shop and Garden Café. The first shop on the island of Naxos to offer exclusively biological products. Anna John offers delicious, healthy food, and detailed advice in matters of food and nutrition. It's a very nice place to have breakfast or a snack.

Fish and Olive. In Halki village. Husband and wife Alexander Reichardt and Katarina Boelsch run this gallery in Halki. Katarina produces ceramics with distinctive moulded olive and frog designs (beware of fakes sold in cheap tourist shops), while Alex paints delicate patterns of fish and animals onto tiles and other ceramics, and designs jewelry. Follow a trip by a piece of chocolate brownie in the cafe opposite.

Vallindras Distillery. Visit the distillery in Halki and buy their produce. The lemon liqueur might be more appreciated than ouzo or retsina, and is certainly more authentically Naxos.

Due to its fertile valleys, Naxos has the richest variety of produce of the Cyclades islands (Naxos is famous in Greece for its potatoes), as well as cattle and poultry. Most restaurants serve fresh and wholesome food, but only a few stand out for excellent dishes, especially in local cuisine.

Greek specialties like moussaka, souvlaki and a wonderfully mild feta are available in restaurants. The local olive oils are superior to the 'light virgin' oil commonly available elsewhere, in that the local process leaves much more olive flavor.

Many meals start with meze in the early evening, with main courses not arriving until much later. Meze is similar to Spanish tapas, with lots of small dishes including hummus, tatziki, olives and small fish.

There are also supermarkets on the outskirts of Hora which offer food and drink at everyday prices. As many rooms come complete with cooking facilities, this offers an excellent way to keep expenses down.

• Η ΑΞΙΩΤΙΣΣΑ (Axiotissa), popularly known as The Yellow House, on the road from Hora to Pyrgaki at the height of Kastraki. Its menu blends Naxian specialties with the cuisine of Asia Minor. Reservations recommended.
• Meze2 on the waterfront serves particularly good fish dishes. Their meze is great too.
• ΤΑΒΕΡΝΑ Ο ΤΖΩΝΝΗΣ. Located in Sagri, a traditional village with hospitable residents. It uses local, fresh ingredients.
• Στης Ειρινι (Ιrini's) features Naxian home cooking such as dakos (wheat rusk topped with tomato and fresh Myzithra cheese) or the spicy Shrimp Saganaki. One of the best restaurants on the waterfront, with excellent views. The slow-cooked beef is delicious.
• ΦΑΡΟΣ Αλυκού (FAROS Aliko beach), famous restaurant with authentic Greek mama's recipes on the road from Hora to Pyrgaki at the height of Aliko beach next to a unique cedar forest.
• Scirocco Cafe & Restauranf, +30 22850 25931. A family-run business founded by brothers Nikos and Michalis (mom Katerina runs the kitchen), serving good food made with fresh ingredients in generous portions at reasonable prices. Salads, pastas, traditional Greek starters and dishes, grilled meats, fresh fish, and more,

Η ΑΞΙΩΤΙΣΣΑ (Axiotissa), popularly known as The Yellow House, on the road from Hora to Pyrgaki at the height of Kastraki. Its menu blends Naxian specialties with the cuisine of Asia Minor. Reservations recommended.

Meze2 on the waterfront serves particularly good fish dishes. Their meze is great too.

ΤΑΒΕΡΝΑ Ο ΤΖΩΝΝΗΣ. Located in Sagri, a traditional village with hospitable residents. It uses local, fresh ingredients.

Στης Ειρινι (Ιrini's) features Naxian home cooking such as dakos (wheat rusk topped with tomato and fresh Myzithra cheese) or the spicy Shrimp Saganaki. One of the best restaurants on the waterfront, with excellent views. The slow-cooked beef is delicious.

ΦΑΡΟΣ Αλυκού (FAROS Aliko beach), famous restaurant with authentic Greek mama's recipes on the road from Hora to Pyrgaki at the height of Aliko beach next to a unique cedar forest.

Scirocco Cafe & Restauranf, +30 22850 25931. A family-run business founded by brothers Nikos and Michalis (mom Katerina runs the kitchen), serving good food made with fresh ingredients in generous portions at reasonable prices. Salads, pastas, traditional Greek starters and dishes, grilled meats, fresh fish, and more,

• O ΓΙΩΡΓΗΣ, +30 22850-62180. In Melanes village just 7 km outside Hora is a family restaurant with a magnificent view of a green valley. Open all-year round, it makes for an excellent stop-over after visiting the Kouros and has very reasonable prices and huge portions. Try the rooster in tomato sauce, stuffed pork, lamb in a clay pot with fried potatoes and cheese, rabbit in onion sauce, aubergine with pork and cheese, and one of the many different traditional sweets that the owner's wife makes all year round, served with yoghurt or ice cream.

O ΓΙΩΡΓΗΣ, +30 22850-62180. In Melanes village just 7 km outside Hora is a family restaurant with a magnificent view of a green valley. Open all-year round, it makes for an excellent stop-over after visiting the Kouros and has very reasonable prices and huge portions. Try the rooster in tomato sauce, stuffed pork, lamb in a clay pot with fried potatoes and cheese, rabbit in onion sauce, aubergine with pork and cheese, and one of the many different traditional sweets that the owner's wife makes all year round, served with yoghurt or ice cream.

• ΛΕΥΤΕΡΗΣ (Lefteris) in the quaint, historic village of Apiranthos. Known for its homemade Galaktoboureko and Pasta Flora sweets.
• Apolafsi, +30 2285075483. Beautiful Naxian cuisine made with fresh produce, all homemade by Voula. Great views to enjoy a romantic evening.

ΛΕΥΤΕΡΗΣ (Lefteris) in the quaint, historic village of [[Apiranthos]]. Known for its homemade Galaktoboureko and Pasta Flora sweets.

Apolafsi, +30 2285075483. Beautiful Naxian cuisine made with fresh produce, all homemade by Voula. Great views to enjoy a romantic evening.

• The taverna in Ano Potamia has large terraces, good quality traditional taverna fare (souvlaki, rabbit, goat, meatballs), but the best part is its stunning location, perched on high ground looking over valleys and mountains.

Naxos is famous for producing its own liquor called kitron, made from an exotic fruit which can be compared perhaps to lemons, though kitron's taste is pleasantly sweet and citric. Its production process can be viewed at the old Valindras distillery in the village of Halki, where different varieties can also be tasted. Kitron is also produced by Promponas.

More common with the locals is a drink called raki which in winter is served hot with honey (Rakomelo). Raki is a brandy made from pomace (the pieces of grapes (including the stems and seeds) that were pressed for wine making and is similar to Italian grappa. One of the places that continuously serves Rakomelo is Cafe Naxos, located in the narrow alleys in the port's old town. Enjoy it with your "parea" (company of friends) by the cosy fireplace or outside in summer.

On the Rocks Bar is located in the heart of Chora between the seafront (paralia), and the really old town. Have a seat in the early evening for an aperitif or a before-dinner-cocktail and watch people passing by while the sun fades away. Enjoy the atmosphere and get yourself a perfect drink, perhaps accompanied by a Havana cigar or shisha (waterpipe) .

• Sottovento, st. george beach (Located on St. George Beach, just a few steps from the center, +30 2285029222. Open from breakfast till night. Offers a range of dining options from classic pizza to chef's specials.

Sottovento, st. george beach (Located on St. George Beach, just a few steps from the center, +30 2285029222. Open from breakfast till night. Offers a range of dining options from classic pizza to chef's specials.

Naxos is generally a safe island.

Be aware of rental scams, especially with agencies working only with motorbikes and ATVs. Using these types of vehicles is very common on Naxos and there are a lot of rental agencies. Some of them are ready to cheat. They will offer faulty motorbikes or ATVs for a lower price, but in case of accident they will demand that the customer pay for the whole cost of damage. They are offering only basic insurance but will present it like full insurance. Also, there is a big possibility of serious injuries.

It is possible to recognize these rental agencies by observing them aggressively attracting tourists and offering lower prices than others. Employees in front of these type of agencies will be loud and ready to promise everything until the contract is signed. It is necessary to check the vehicle before making any decision. Their vehicles are in most of the cases dusty, dirty and look old.

Ferries are available to Aegiali (Amorgos), Anafi, Astypalea, Donoussa, Folegandros, Heraklion, Ios, Iraklia, Katapola (Amorgos), Kea, Kimolos, Koufonissi, Kythnos, Lavrio, Milos, Mykonos, Paros, Piraeus, Rafina, Schinoussa, Sifnos, Sikinos, Syros, Thira (Santorini), Thirasia, and Tinos.

Word of advice: It is not an uncommon story on Naxos that someone who initially planned to stay for only a few days missed their original ferry out, and liked the island so much that they ended up staying there forever. They are living proof of Ariadne's legend, who was left behind here by Theseus after they escaped from Crete, and remained to become the wife of Dionysus.