G2Rail

Phitsanulok (พิษณุโลก) is a historic city in Lower Northern Thailand, about halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. It has a population of around 80,000.

A city in the lower part of Northern Thailand rich in historical, cultural and natural attractions, Phitsanulok is some 377 kilometres from Bangkok. The province around it covers an area of 10,815 square kilometres, featuring mountains, plains and forest in the east and river basin. The Nan River, lifeline of the province, runs through the heart of the city.

It is also a regional commerce and transportation hub. Many travellers will at least pass through Phitsanulok on way to and from the North. The city itself is not the most exciting or prettiest place in the world, but it can be useful for stocking up on supplies, and Phitsanulok is a great starting point for exploring the ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai.

The local Tourism Authority Thailand (TAT) office is at 209/7-8 Borom Trailokanat Rd, a few streets south of the train station (walking, 5-7 min) (08:30-16:30 daily).

The city dates back to the 10th century when the Khmer ruled this region. Formerly, the city was named Song Khwae, meaning two rivers, as it was located between the Nan and Khwae Noi River. The original location of Song Khwae city is at Wat Chulamani. Around the year 1357, king of Sukhothai, Phra Maha Thammaracha Lithai, decided to move the town to its present location. Since then, Phitsanulok served as a strategic border town ruled by members of the royal family.

During the Ayutthaya Period, the town played a larger role as a buffer town between Ayutthaya, the capital city, and the northern kingdom. Following an administrative reform by King Borommatrailokkanat, it had served as the capital city for 25 years. After that, the town was downgraded to a strategic border town. It has played a major role in blocking the invasion of Burmese troops. King Naresuan the Great, who ruled the town in a capacity as Crown Prince, mobilized troops from Phitsanulok to fight against the Burmese who then ruled over the Siamese Kingdom, and reclaimed independence in 1584.

Phitsanulok became a strategic town in coping Burmese invasion again in 1775 in the Thon Buri period. During a tough battle, the Burmese army commander requested the appearance of a Thai commander, Chaophraya Chakri, and predicted that he would become a king. Chaophraya Chakri was later crowned the first monarch of the Rattanakosin period, King Rama I the Great of the Royal House of Chakri. Phitsanulok was upgraded to be a circle called Monthon Phitsanulok in 1894 in the reign of King Rama V. Now, Phitsanulok is a province.

Phitsanulok is not well-known to foreign tourists and thus has retained the charm of a typical, larger Thai city. Unfortunately, most of the older parts of the city were destroyed in a disastrous fire decades ago.

Aviary. With around 100 local species such as parrots (English is spoken!) and hornbills.
City Pillar Shrine/Lak Mueang (Thai). The spiritual centre of the city and province. A Lak Mueang (Thai) or 'City Pillar Shrine' is a golden pillar, which represents the tutelary deity of each province of Thailand, housed inside an impressively designed structure. This shrine was designed by the Thai Fine Arts Department, in a Khymer-style.
Folklore Museum. A small museum exhibiting local culture and society, as collected by Sergeant Major Tawee. Interesting, worth a look. 50 baht.
Houseboats. Once a symbol of Phitsanulok, only a few of these are left on the river and some now function as restaurants and cafes.
King Naresuan Shrine and Wang Chan Palace Ruin. King Naresuan was one of the great Thai kings who liberated Ayutthaya Kingdom from the Burmese in the 16th century. This shrine commemorates his life. A small white building contains the statue of the King. Surrounding the shrine are the ruins of the king's palace birthplace.
Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat. This is the most important temple in Phitsanulok and is the home of the famous Phra Buddha Chinnarat, one of the most revered Buddha figures in Thailand. The temple is host to a large fair every January. There is also a small market on the ground, where people offer souvenirs and local food. Connected to the temple ground of Wat Yai is the Nang Phaya Temple. There you can get a traditional Thai massage.
Wat Ratburana. This wat is best known for its very old and tall chedi. According to legend this was constructed in the 15th century to house the ashes of the King of Sukhothai's two brothers. There is also the usual Thai temple buildings, plus, a small museum, and a boat used by King Chulalongkorn.

Aviary. With around 100 local species such as parrots (English is spoken!) and hornbills.

City Pillar Shrine/Lak Mueang (Thai). The spiritual centre of the city and province. A Lak Mueang (Thai) or 'City Pillar Shrine' is a golden pillar, which represents the tutelary deity of each province of Thailand, housed inside an impressively designed structure. This shrine was designed by the Thai Fine Arts Department, in a Khymer-style.

Folklore Museum. A small museum exhibiting local culture and society, as collected by Sergeant Major Tawee. Interesting, worth a look. 50 baht.

Houseboats. Once a symbol of Phitsanulok, only a few of these are left on the river and some now function as restaurants and cafes.

King Naresuan Shrine and Wang Chan Palace Ruin. King Naresuan was one of the great Thai kings who liberated Ayutthaya Kingdom from the Burmese in the 16th century. This shrine commemorates his life. A small white building contains the statue of the King. Surrounding the shrine are the ruins of the king's palace birthplace.

Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat. This is the most important temple in Phitsanulok and is the home of the famous Phra Buddha Chinnarat, one of the most revered Buddha figures in Thailand. The temple is host to a large fair every January. There is also a small market on the ground, where people offer souvenirs and local food. Connected to the temple ground of Wat Yai is the Nang Phaya Temple. There you can get a traditional Thai massage.

Wat Ratburana. This wat is best known for its very old and tall chedi. According to legend this was constructed in the 15th century to house the ashes of the King of Sukhothai's two brothers. There is also the usual Thai temple buildings, plus, a small museum, and a boat used by King Chulalongkorn.

Wat Prathat Phasornkaew Visit the temples and stroll around a Thai city that is still unspoilt by the tourist traps of Chiang Mai and Bangkok.

There's a really nice daytrip to two temples possible. Wat Prathat Phasornkaew. and the Sitting Buddha Statue are around 2 1/2 hours by bus from Phitsanulok. Busses depart from the normal bus station and cost 80 Baht one way. From where the bus stops you have to walk for 25 mins up a hill (or hitch a ride on the back of a pick up truck). Both temples are quite new. The Sitting Buddha Statue temple is actually multiple Buddhas sitting in front of each other and getting smaller. The other temple (Wat Prathat Phasornkaew), which is just on the other side of the road, is completely covered in beautiful mosaic art, walls, floors and stairs are designed in a smooth, fluid way which reminded me of Antoni Gaudí. You can climb this temple quite a bit and have an amazing view on the surrounding hills. This is really Off The Beaten Path. When going back it's possible to hitch hike or take a bus. For more information you can ask the owner of the Karma Home Hostel.

Several markets offer the typical variety of food stall dishes. During the day check out the Market. just south of the train station, which turns into a popular night market scene in the early evening. Some of the best buys are gai yang (grilled chicken) and kweitiou pat Thai (Thai style fried noodles).

Night Bazaar. Offers lots of tourist type food options plus after dinner shopping with the usual night market items.
Topland Mall. Shopping mall with standard chain restaurant fare. There is a Tesco-Lotus downstairs for self catering and other essentials.
Big C Mall. Offers a wide range of small restaurants and a food hall.
Connection House, Borom Trailokanat Rd (go southwest from train station/clock tower, past Xing Ming school but before Playground/Leelawadee.. Thai and foreign food, cakes and coffee.
Kuai Tiao Hoi Kha, Soi Phutthabucha (riverside alley behind Wat Yai. Very popular noodle restaurant by the riverside. "Kuai Tiao" meens noodle and "Hoi Kha" to dangle one's legs, refering to the fact that you can dangle your legs in the air while sitting there. May be difficult to find a seat during lunchtime.
Bubbletea Kiosk. A small bubble tea stall / kiosk offering really cheap, but tasty bubble tea. Open throughout the day. 20 - 25 Baht.

Night Bazaar. Offers lots of tourist type food options plus after dinner shopping with the usual night market items.

Topland Mall. Shopping mall with standard chain restaurant fare. There is a Tesco-Lotus downstairs for self catering and other essentials.

Big C Mall. Offers a wide range of small restaurants and a food hall.

Connection House, Borom Trailokanat Rd (go southwest from train station/clock tower, past Xing Ming school but before Playground/Leelawadee.. Thai and foreign food, cakes and coffee.

Kuai Tiao Hoi Kha, Soi Phutthabucha (riverside alley behind Wat Yai. Very popular noodle restaurant by the riverside. "Kuai Tiao" meens noodle and "Hoi Kha" to dangle one's legs, refering to the fact that you can dangle your legs in the air while sitting there. May be difficult to find a seat during lunchtime.

Bubbletea Kiosk. A small bubble tea stall / kiosk offering really cheap, but tasty bubble tea. Open throughout the day. 20 - 25 Baht.

It's a Cake. Great cakes and good sandwiches, pasta, and Thai dishes. Internet access.
The Pista, Phayalithai Rd (Down the road from Lintai Guesthouse before the river.. Great little coffee shop mainly visited by young local students, with surprisingly good coffee and a quiet environment, good seating, and aircon. Free Wifi.

It's a Cake. Great cakes and good sandwiches, pasta, and Thai dishes. Internet access.

The Pista, Phayalithai Rd (Down the road from Lintai Guesthouse before the river.. Great little coffee shop mainly visited by young local students, with surprisingly good coffee and a quiet environment, good seating, and aircon. Free Wifi.

Immigration Office.

Immigration Office.

Phitsanulok is a convenient transportation hub and good stop-over from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (or vice versa), or on the way between Northern and Northeastern Thailand (Isan).

Phichit – the town is the setting of a legend about the crocodile king, illustrated by a crocodile park. 55 km south, 40 min by train.
Sukhothai – ancient capital of Siam with historic monuments from the 13th century (UNESCO World Heritage site); a good day trip. 60 km (new town)/70 km (historical park) west, 1 hour by bus.
Uttaradit – 110 km north, 1½–2 hrs by train or bus.
Kamphaeng Phet – another interesting historical park from the same era as Sukhothai. 110 km southwest, 2½–3 hrs by local bus.
Loei – main town of the coolest (climatewise) province of Thailand. 230 km northeast, 4½ hrs by bus.
Khon Kaen – informal capital of Northeastern Thailand, economic and transportation hub in central Isan. 320 km east, 5–6 hrs by bus.
Chiang Mai – informal capital of Northern Thailand, cultural centre. 345 km north, 5:15-7 hrs by bus, 6–7½ hrs by train.
Bangkok – Thailand's capital and international metropolis. 375 km south, 5½ hrs by bus, 5–7 hrs by train.