Phú Quốc (pronounced fú-wóg) is a large tropical Vietnamese island off the coast of Cambodia. It is only accessible from Vietnam.
Phú Quôc is a mountainous and densely forested island of 574 km². It is 48 km in length from south to north and has a population of approximately 103,000 people (2012). In the Gulf of Thailand 45 km west of Ha Tien on the Vietnamese mainland and 15 km south of the coast of Cambodia, Phú Quôc is ringed with some of most beautiful beaches in Vietnam, and offers the best seafood in the country.
Phú Quôc Island served as a base for French missionary Pigneau de Behaine from the 1760-80s and at one time he provided shelter here for Prince Nguyen Anh (later Emperor Gia Long) when he was being hunted by the Tay Son rebels. During the Vietnam War there was little fighting here but the island was used by the ARVN as a prison for captured Viet Cong.
Phú Quôc is not part of the Mekong delta and also doesn’t share the delta's extraordinary ability to produce rice and fruit due to the low quality of its soil and inaccessible terrain. It is, however, home to the best fish sauce (nuoc mam) in the world, and is also reputed to produce high quality pepper and fantastic seafood.
Another point of interest in Phú Quôc is the island's native dog. This dog was a wild animal that was trained as a hunting dog by local people. These days they are very domesticated and it's unusual to go anywhere on the island without seeing one. These animals have unusually sharp teeth (as they tear their food when they eat it rather than bite) and have claws that over the years have been optimised for catching prey and are razor sharp.
Phú Quôc is what Phuket was before it was overrun by development. Phú Quôc Island and its beaches were voted "The Cleanest and Most Beautiful Beach in the World" by ABC News in Feb 2008. However, this is changing fast. Insiders call the island "the world's first rubbish dump on which tourism is run" or "the island, where nature and rubbish grow together" because of the excessive pollution (mainly plastic bags) outside the tourist resorts.
There are extensive plans to develop Phú Quôc, including high-rise residential areas, several new towns and suburbs, complete rebuilding of Duong Dông' city centre, and replacing the existing small PQC airport. The new international airport south of Duong Dông opened in early-2013. The main north-south road between Bai Thom and An Thoi is already being upgraded to a 2+2 lane highway, a new all-weather road from Duong Dông to Gan Dau is ready as far as Cua Can, which has a new bridge. A golf course is planned as well as a casino in the north. A ferry connection to Sihanoukville (Cambodia) and visa-free-entry have been discussed in the past. Phú Quôc will be something completely different in 10 years if current plans materialize.
Phu Quoc Island has a tropical climate with three seasons: high, shoulder, and low.
- High season: During Nov-Mar, the daily maximum temperature typically averages about 31°C, and the daily minimum temperature (before sunrise) about 23°C. The skies are generally sunny, with possibly some light high cloud in early morning that clears by mid-morning, and the humidity is at its lowest for the year.
- Shoulder season: During Apr-Oct, the temperatures are a bit higher than during the high season, and the humidity around 80-85%. Crowds are fewer during this time and there are good chances of reasonable weather.
- Low season: The period between Jul-Sep is dominated by the monsoons.
- The roads going round the northwest corner of the island are an interesting ride on a motorbike. The roads are quiet and safe, and also the unpaved roads are easy to ride (just be careful of loose sand in some places). You can stop for coffee or lunch at the Chez Carole Resort to see the views at the mouth of the Cua Can River. There are nice quiet beaches at the westernmost shore of the island, and the road east from Ganh Dau goes through dense forest. There are dozens of large colourful fishing boats in front of Ganh Dau in the afternoon.
- At the southern tip of the island is the fishing of An Thoi town. There are some fishing boats to see. You can hire a boat to take you to the small islands south of Phu Quoc from there.
- The prettiest beach on the island is Sao Beach at the southeast corner of the island, a couple of kilometres north of An Thoi town, with a restaurant/cafe and beach lounging.
- A couple of kilometers east of Duong Dong town there is a path (slightly more than 1 km) through the forest to the Suoi Tranh Waterfalls. This is a major attraction when it has been raining. There is barely any water during the dry season from Nov-Apr, but the rock exposed by the river is interesting, and you can hear the sounds of the forest. You can plunge into the pool under the 2-m waterfall at the end of the path.
There are pearl farms on the west side of the island south of Duong Dong town. The Phu Quoc Pearl Farm is about 10 kilometers away, and they have a cafe/restaurant and a shop. - There are a couple of pepper farms that can be visited . The pepper plants is grow hanging from a long pole, with small green peppers on them. You can buy pepper products there to bring home as souvenirs.
- Some of the fish sauce factories can be visited.
Ask your hotel for an island tour, which may include visits to a fish sauce factory, the nature reserve, or the abandoned wartime Phú Quốc Prison (also known as Coconut Tree Prison).
The roads going round the northwest corner of the island are an interesting ride on a motorbike. The roads are quiet and safe, and also the unpaved roads are easy to ride (just be careful of loose sand in some places). You can stop for coffee or lunch at the Chez Carole Resort to see the views at the mouth of the Cua Can River. There are nice quiet beaches at the westernmost shore of the island, and the road east from Ganh Dau goes through dense forest. There are dozens of large colourful fishing boats in front of Ganh Dau in the afternoon.
At the southern tip of the island is the fishing of An Thoi town. There are some fishing boats to see. You can hire a boat to take you to the small islands south of Phu Quoc from there.
The prettiest beach on the island is Sao Beach at the southeast corner of the island, a couple of kilometres north of An Thoi town, with a restaurant/cafe and beach lounging.
A couple of kilometers east of Duong Dong town there is a path (slightly more than 1 km) through the forest to the Suoi Tranh Waterfalls. This is a major attraction when it has been raining. There is barely any water during the dry season from Nov-Apr, but the rock exposed by the river is interesting, and you can hear the sounds of the forest. You can plunge into the pool under the 2-m waterfall at the end of the path.
Phu Quoc offers diving in two separate locations. Up north on the west side of the island or south at the An Thoi Islands. Up north there are three main diving locations with all of them at a maximum depth of 10 m. They are especially great for beginners. Sites are surrounded by corals and funky rock formations which provide shelter to a variety of fish and species of nudibranch.
Down south there are up to 20 different dive sites around a group of 13 islands with depths ranging from 10-40 m. The majority of the islands are surrounded by coral and are slowly being converted to marine protected areas, thus giving you a slightly better chance of seeing more and bigger fish and lots of nudibranches.
The route to the south is not as well protected as the northern site which means you might be in for rocky ride on the boat and mild to strong currents.
Snorkelling tours pick you up at your hotel in the morning and take you to the islands in the south. It usually includes the boat trip, snorkelling gear, lunch, and transportation. Don't expect to see a lot of fish and coral under water. But still a nice way to spend a day.
- Jerry's Jungle Tours, Duong Dong, +84 938 226 021. Archipelago explorations by boat, snorkelling, fishing, day and multiday trips to islands, motorbike tours, bouldering, bird-watching, hiking and cultural tours around Phu Quoc.
- Flipper Diving Club, 42 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong (When headed south from the night market, about 200 m from there on the right side of the road, +84 93 940 2872. Daily, 09:00-20:00. The newest dive shop on the island and also a fast growing one. The only dive company on Phu Quoc that is a PADI resort and also a SSI centre. Staffed by instructors from both organizations, they can provide training from beginner level to all the way up to divemaster. They are also environmentally aware and organise clean up days, actively try to raise awareness of divers and enforce a "no-touch" policy while diving. Fun Dives USD65, For non certified starting from USD85, PADI & SSI courses starting from USD300.
- John's tour, +84 91 910 7086. Snorkelling. From USD15.
- Phu Quoc Explorer, +84 98 651 1031. Snorkelling. From USD15.
- Rainbow Divers, 11a Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong (Opposite the night market, +84 91 340 0964. Daily, 08:00-21:00. The longest established dive centre on Phu Quoc and the island's only PADI five star dive centre. Staffed by divemasters and instructors from around the globe. PADI-courses are available in most European languages and in Vietnamese. Friendly staff and great trips. Works closely with local businesses in organising local charity events and beach and sea clean-ups. They have an eco-friendly policy with regard to looking after the reefs and in training new divers. From USD75.
- Sunny Boat Trip. Snorkelling. USD15+.
- X-Dive, Duong Dong. Operates dives to both the north and south of the island depending upon the conditions. They do not offer PADI courses.
- Phu Quoc Island Tours, 1 Tran Hung Dao Street (Near the Salinda Resort), +84 91911256. English & Vietnamese tour guides taking you to the island hotspots by land and sea. Services include camping, kayak+camping, and National Park trekking.
Jerry's Jungle Tours, Duong Dong, +84 938 226 021. Archipelago explorations by boat, snorkelling, fishing, day and multiday trips to islands, motorbike tours, bouldering, bird-watching, hiking and cultural tours around Phu Quoc.
Flipper Diving Club, 42 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong (When headed south from the night market, about 200 m from there on the right side of the road, +84 93 940 2872. Daily, 09:00-20:00. The newest dive shop on the island and also a fast growing one. The only dive company on Phu Quoc that is a PADI resort and also a SSI centre. Staffed by instructors from both organizations, they can provide training from beginner level to all the way up to divemaster. They are also environmentally aware and organise clean up days, actively try to raise awareness of divers and enforce a "no-touch" policy while diving. Fun Dives USD65, For non certified starting from USD85, PADI & SSI courses starting from USD300.
John's tour, +84 91 910 7086. Snorkelling. From USD15.
Phu Quoc Explorer, +84 98 651 1031. Snorkelling. From USD15.
Rainbow Divers, 11a Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong (Opposite the night market, +84 91 340 0964. Daily, 08:00-21:00. The longest established dive centre on Phu Quoc and the island's only PADI five star dive centre. Staffed by divemasters and instructors from around the globe. PADI-courses are available in most European languages and in Vietnamese. Friendly staff and great trips. Works closely with local businesses in organising local charity events and beach and sea clean-ups. They have an eco-friendly policy with regard to looking after the reefs and in training new divers. From USD75.
Sunny Boat Trip. Snorkelling. USD15+.
X-Dive, Duong Dong. Operates dives to both the north and south of the island depending upon the conditions. They do not offer PADI courses.
Phu Quoc Island Tours, 1 Tran Hung Dao Street (Near the Salinda Resort), +84 91911256. English & Vietnamese tour guides taking you to the island hotspots by land and sea. Services include camping, kayak+camping, and National Park trekking.
There are ATMs in Duong Dong town around night market area. If you want to exchange money, the nearest bank is 500 m from the Night Market.
Main articles to buy are:
- Fresh seafood
- Pearls
- Duong Dong Market, Duong Dong town (Northeast of the city, past the night market.
- Dinh Cau Night Market, Duong Dong town (West of the city, near the ferry landing. Later, try wandering around the night market where locals mingle with tourists, a place that offers a selection of goods, pearls, seafood, and a playground for children. There are many options for food at the market, with fresh seafood laid out next to each restaurant for you to check out while you're making your choice of place to sit and eat.
Duong Dong Market, Duong Dong town (Northeast of the city, past the night market.
Dinh Cau Night Market, Duong Dong town (West of the city, near the ferry landing. Later, try wandering around the night market where locals mingle with tourists, a place that offers a selection of goods, pearls, seafood, and a playground for children. There are many options for food at the market, with fresh seafood laid out next to each restaurant for you to check out while you're making your choice of place to sit and eat.
- The Dog Bar, 88 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong town (Next to Chez Carole, +84 90 381 4688. Till late. Serves good burgers and pizzas, as well as a range of Western, Vietnamese, and seafood dishes. Watch live sports, play pool, or darts, or just listen to live music. You can book dive and snorkelling trips there with Rainbow Divers and Anh Tu. They have cold beer, mixed drinks and cocktails and a friendly English-speaking staff.
- Ganesh Indian Restaurant, 97 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong town. Ganesh is probably the only Indian restaurant on the island. The food is OK, but not quite up to the standards you can experience in countries like the UK or Australia.
- Gio Bien Restaurant, Ganh Dau commune (On the beach in the north of the island. Offers a great selection of fresh seafood dishes and Vietnamese dishes. The beach is beautiful and metres away from your table. The caramelised fish hotpot for lunch or dinner is a treat.
- Night Market, Võ Thị Sáu, Dương Đông town. From 18:00 there are lots of small restaurants open on the street of the night market. It's the place to go for seafood. From 20,000 dong.
- Ocean Bar and Grill, 60 Trân Hung Dao, Duong Dong, +84 77 399 4268. Excellent service and food. The seafood is fresh and cooked to order and the staff are highly trained and attentive. Michelle, the owner, speaks to every customer about their meal and keeps a photo and book of comments from all patrons.
- Rory's Beach Bar, 118/10 Tran Hung Dao. As you walk past on the beach the Aussie owner, Rory, will tempt you with promises of ice cold beer ("Too cold to hold!") using his loud hailer. He delivers, with two draught beers on tap. There's plenty of room to sit and relax on the deck, around the bar or on the beach-front. Prices are mid-range with draught beer around 35,000 dong, cocktails hovering around 100,000 dong and meals averaging 120,000 dong.
- The Rabbit Hole Irish Bar, 90 Tran Hung Dao Street, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc, Vietnam (Located 1km away from Duong Dong night market and opposite Phu Quoc Ocean Pearl Hotel, +84 90 605 89 90. 4pm - 3am. English speaking staff will provide a friendly atmosphere, great music and any advice you want about how best to enjoy your time in Phu Quoc. Outdoor seating, air conditioned indoors and free wifi. Comfort foods such as 100% Australian Beef Burgers, Chicken Wings, House Special Hotdogs, Toasted Sandwiches, Vietnamese specialties like mama's hanoi Spring Rolls are available at mid range prices. A selection of big screens showing all International sports. Entertainment on offer includes a Pool table, a Professional UK Darts Board, regular Poker games, a NES Classic (with 30 classic Nintendo games), Jenga, and Connect 4. Also serving Guinness, Magners’ Cider and many more Western and local beers, fine whiskeys and signature cocktails.
The Dog Bar, 88 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong town (Next to Chez Carole, +84 90 381 4688. Till late. Serves good burgers and pizzas, as well as a range of Western, Vietnamese, and seafood dishes. Watch live sports, play pool, or darts, or just listen to live music. You can book dive and snorkelling trips there with Rainbow Divers and Anh Tu. They have cold beer, mixed drinks and cocktails and a friendly English-speaking staff.
Ganesh Indian Restaurant, 97 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong town. Ganesh is probably the only Indian restaurant on the island. The food is OK, but not quite up to the standards you can experience in countries like the UK or Australia.
Gio Bien Restaurant, Ganh Dau commune (On the beach in the north of the island. Offers a great selection of fresh seafood dishes and Vietnamese dishes. The beach is beautiful and metres away from your table. The caramelised fish hotpot for lunch or dinner is a treat.
Night Market, Võ Thị Sáu, Dương Đông town. From 18:00 there are lots of small restaurants open on the street of the night market. It's the place to go for seafood. From 20,000 dong.
Ocean Bar and Grill, 60 Trân Hung Dao, Duong Dong, +84 77 399 4268. Excellent service and food. The seafood is fresh and cooked to order and the staff are highly trained and attentive. Michelle, the owner, speaks to every customer about their meal and keeps a photo and book of comments from all patrons.
Rory's Beach Bar, 118/10 Tran Hung Dao. As you walk past on the beach the Aussie owner, Rory, will tempt you with promises of ice cold beer ("Too cold to hold!") using his loud hailer. He delivers, with two draught beers on tap. There's plenty of room to sit and relax on the deck, around the bar or on the beach-front. Prices are mid-range with draught beer around 35,000 dong, cocktails hovering around 100,000 dong and meals averaging 120,000 dong.
The Rabbit Hole Irish Bar, 90 Tran Hung Dao Street, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc, Vietnam (Located 1km away from Duong Dong night market and opposite Phu Quoc Ocean Pearl Hotel, +84 90 605 89 90. 4pm - 3am. English speaking staff will provide a friendly atmosphere, great music and any advice you want about how best to enjoy your time in Phu Quoc. Outdoor seating, air conditioned indoors and free wifi. Comfort foods such as 100% Australian Beef Burgers, Chicken Wings, House Special Hotdogs, Toasted Sandwiches, Vietnamese specialties like mama's hanoi Spring Rolls are available at mid range prices. A selection of big screens showing all International sports. Entertainment on offer includes a Pool table, a Professional UK Darts Board, regular Poker games, a NES Classic (with 30 classic Nintendo games), Jenga, and Connect 4. Also serving Guinness, Magners’ Cider and many more Western and local beers, fine whiskeys and signature cocktails.
Your biggest risk on Phú Quôc is getting sick or being involved in an accident. When setting out on a motorbike trip, ensure you have a basic first aid kit and your hotel telephone number with you.
When leaving the island by boat, you can get a mini-bus ride from Duong Dong night market to Superdong East Pier for 25,000 dong at 07:00, about a 40-min journey. Hotel pickups seems to vary from free to 60,000 dong.