San Carlos de Bariloche

Bariloche is in the Río Negro Province, near the Nahuel Huapi National Park in Argentina.

San Carlos de Bariloche is a city in the province of Río Negro, Argentina, situated on the foothills of the Andes, surrounded by lakes (Nahuel Huapi, Gutiérrez Lake, Moreno Lake and Mascardi Lake) and mountains (Tronador, Cerro Catedral, Cerro López). Arguably the most visited city in Argentinian Patagonia, it is famous for skiing and is great for sightseeing, water sports, trekking and climbing. Despite being an undeniable tourist magnet, Bariloche is set amidst incredible landscapes which should not be missed by nature-loving travelers. Another claim to fame is its Swiss-like atmosphere and its chocolate boutiques and breweries, and look for the St Bernard dogs on display for tourists.

San Carlos de Bariloche weather is transitional between the wet climate of the Andes to the west and the dry climate of Patagonia to the east. Areas to the west such as the city centre receive more precipitation than areas to the east such as the airport. Summers are characterized by long stretches sunny, dry, and windy weather with pleasant afternoons and cold nights, occasionally dropping below freezing. The strong winds make the temperatures feel colder than it should be. Spring and fall are variable with some days being pleasant while other days being cold. Snowfall is common in these seasons. Winters are cool to cold with frequent precipitation, bringing stormy weather with mixed precipitation (snow, rain, sleet), occasional snowstorms. Temperatures during the day are usually above freezing and nights are cold. The city receives abundant snowfall during this season, averaging 23-42 cm (9.0-16.4 in), making it an excellent destination for skiing.

• Museo de la Patagonia, Centro Cívico s/n (At main plaza, near the Tourist Info center, +54 294 442-2309. Tu-F 10:00-12:30 and 14:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-17:00. "Stuffed" native wildlife, pictures, and a great section covering the indigenous pre-Hispanic inhabitants of the region. Entrance on voluntary donation.
• Huemul Project Site. In the early 1950s, an Austrian scientist named Ronald Richter attempted to build the world's first fusion power plant on an island in a lake in the Andes, the undertaking being known as the Huemul Project. A couple of years and an equivalent of several hundred million US dollars later it came into light that Richter never had got any proof of his design actually functioning in the first place. As the patron of the project, President Juan Perón, was ousted in 1955, Richter was arrested for fraud. Today the ruins of the project can be visited on the island, and the city itself remains a center of Argentinian nuclear research.

Museo de la Patagonia, Centro Cívico s/n (At main plaza, near the Tourist Info center, +54 294 442-2309. Tu-F 10:00-12:30 and 14:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-17:00. "Stuffed" native wildlife, pictures, and a great section covering the indigenous pre-Hispanic inhabitants of the region. Entrance on voluntary donation.

Huemul Project Site. In the early 1950s, an Austrian scientist named Ronald Richter attempted to build the world's first fusion power plant on an island in a lake in the Andes, the undertaking being known as the Huemul Project. A couple of years and an equivalent of several hundred million US dollars later it came into light that Richter never had got any proof of his design actually functioning in the first place. As the patron of the project, President Juan Perón, was ousted in 1955, Richter was arrested for fraud. Today the ruins of the project can be visited on the island, and the city itself remains a center of Argentinian nuclear research.

There are many trekking trails close to Bariloche. You can get more information on Trek Bariloche which provides a comprehensive guide to the trekking routes in the National Park.

• Cerro Campanario. Beautiful view of the lakes and mountains around - hike it (30 min, departs near the bottom of the lift) or take the ski-lift (AR$40). Get in with bus #20, 21, 10 from the center and get off at km 17.8. After the Campanario you can go on with the Circuito Chico during the same day.
• Los Arrayanes National Park. A forest of rare, orange-colored trees that only grow on a local island (and one in Japan) near Villa la Angostura. There are several cruise boats; the newest (luxurious) ship is called the "Cau Cau". Take the circuit bus out of Bariloche and catch a boat (near the Hotel Llao Llao) and have lunch, hike or bike, and enjoy the afternoon in the forest.
• Camino de los Siete Lagos. All-day tour by bus to see the seven picturesque lakes between Bariloche and San Martín de Los Andes, with lunch at SMdLA, followed by a return trip through the arid Pampas where you can see much of the local fauna along the way.
• Sendero de los Arrayanes. Nice 3 km hike starting close to the Lao Lao golf course. Beautiful views to Lago Moreno.
• Cerro Catedral. It has the biggest ski centre in South America, with a skiable area of 2 km² (0.77 sq mi), over 100 km (62 miles) of ski runs, and a lift capacity of 22,200 skiers per hour. It is located 19 km (12 miles) from Bariloche. If you enjoy hiking, there is trail to the Frey refugio which takes about 6½ hours (4 up, 2½ down). Look for the trailhead in the far corner of the parking lot.
• Circuito Chico. This beautiful 25-km route can be biked or hiked. You can also do it by bus during summer (line 10). If you hike it, take bus 20 towards Llao Llao till "El Muelle". See map above for track.
• Cerro Otto. Viewpoint over the area of Bariloche. Transport there includes in the price of the cable car which cost AR$70 both ways (bus+cable car) or less one way while the other way you can hike or take a mountain bike(9 km from the city, about 2½ hours when hiking down). The rotating restaurant at the top has some impressive vistas of the region (average meal costs about AR$25) and there are some nice hiking trails behind the restaurant.
• Cerro Frey trek. Considered by many as the best 1-3 days trekking in Bariloche. When it's cold enough you can skate in the lake near the refuge. When there's not too much snow you can climb the granite "agujas" (needles) near the refuge which have ways for all levels, or head to Lago Jakob. There are two ways to get in and out: the main one is from Villa Cathedral (only one bus every 1hr 30min), another (a bit longer) one starts from Los Cohiues and goes along the Gutierrez lake (bus #50).

• Cerro López. In late spring/summer/early autumn there's a trekking trail to the mountain shelter (not as easy as Otto's). It takes about 3 hours to get there and can be quite tiring, but the views from the shelter are impressive. Be sure to bring along water and some fruit to keep your energy. Colonia Suiza, a Swiss-like borough, is nearby.
• Cerro Tronador. Visit the black glacier (ventisquero negro), see the Cerro Tronador and a waterfall over an overhanging cliff named Saltillo de las Nalcas, near the village of Pampa Linda. The busride takes about two hours, and costs AR$90 return or AR$45 one-way (Transitando, 20 de Febrero 300, Bariloche). There is an additional entrance fee to the national park of AR$50 (foreigners). With this bus, you have to hike the last 7 km to the glacier, which is a beautiful experience as there is a hiking trail and the road shows amazing landscape. Some tourist buses take you right to the sights. Near the lookout there is confiteria which sells overpriced food although location is remote and the place astonishing.
• Isla Victoria.
• Club Andino, San Martín y Independencia (one block south of the Tourism Office in the Centro Cívico, +54 0294 442-2266,+54 0294 442-4579. The Club Andino is where you can get information on treks and activities around Bariloche and in the Nahuel Huapi National Park. They provide maps and descriptions of the trails.
• Hiking with Local Mountain Guide. Guided bilingual hikes with mountain guide Maxi Schoffel in Nahuel Huapi National Park.

If you're interested in going to the lakes and islands:

• Turisur. Mitre 219 - Bariloche, - Boat excursions from Bariloche (Puerto Panuelo) to Bosque Arrayanes (about AR$160) & Puerto Blest, they also do the trip across to Chile (Cruce de Lagos) (about US$230).
• Cruce de Lagos. All-day cruise of Lake Nahuel Huapi and the National Park. Numerous stops allow you to wander in Andean rain forest, eat at the Hotel Puerto Blest and enjoy the stunning scenery from the turquoise waters of the lake. Buy the pass for a one hour cruise on Lago Frias which brings you near the snow covered volcano, Tronador. Lago Frias is milky jade green in color and the ride includes a short stop at the Chilean frontier. US$230 per person - also known as Cruce Andino.

Other activities include:

• Paragliding. Ernesto Gutierrez, 02944-462234 / 02944-15413037 offers 30-minute tandem flights for AR$250 and an additional AR$20-30 transportation cost, depending on the location (Cerro Otto or Cerro Cathedral).
• Rafting - Several agents offers rafting on the grade I Rio Limay or the grade III/IV Rio Manso. There are several outfitters that organize full day tours with lunch included.
• Kayak, Pura Vida - Half-day tours in the Gutierrez Lake.
• Horseriding - Horseriding tours to the Nahuel Huapi National Park from Bariloche in English and Spanish are provided by Carol Jones. Also try Tom Wesley Cabalgatas, their 3-hour lake ride is amazing.
• Historical Steam Train. A full-day journey into the steppe, riding a 1912 railway, which has been rebuilt keeping its original features.

Beyond:

• Pampa Linda & Mount Tronador. Up to 4 days of hiking with nice tails, and a hostel, to and from Bariloche. Consult with the local national park office.

Cerro Campanario. Beautiful view of the lakes and mountains around - hike it (30 min, departs near the bottom of the lift) or take the ski-lift (AR$40). Get in with bus #20, 21, 10 from the center and get off at km 17.8. After the Campanario you can go on with the Circuito Chico during the same day.

Los Arrayanes National Park. A forest of rare, orange-colored trees that only grow on a local island (and one in Japan) near [[Villa la Angostura]]. There are several cruise boats; the newest (luxurious) ship is called the "Cau Cau". Take the circuit bus out of Bariloche and catch a boat (near the Hotel Llao Llao) and have lunch, hike or bike, and enjoy the afternoon in the forest.

Camino de los Siete Lagos. All-day tour by bus to see the seven picturesque lakes between Bariloche and San Martín de Los Andes, with lunch at SMdLA, followed by a return trip through the arid Pampas where you can see much of the local fauna along the way.

Sendero de los Arrayanes. Nice 3 km hike starting close to the Lao Lao golf course. Beautiful views to Lago Moreno.

Cerro Catedral. It has the biggest ski centre in South America, with a skiable area of 2 km² (0.77 sq mi), over 100 km (62 miles) of ski runs, and a lift capacity of 22,200 skiers per hour. It is located 19 km (12 miles) from Bariloche. If you enjoy hiking, there is trail to the Frey refugio which takes about 6½ hours (4 up, 2½ down). Look for the trailhead in the far corner of the parking lot.

Circuito Chico. This beautiful 25-km route can be biked or hiked. You can also do it by bus during summer (line 10). If you hike it, take bus 20 towards Llao Llao till "El Muelle". See map above for track.

Cerro Otto. Viewpoint over the area of Bariloche. Transport there includes in the price of the cable car which cost AR$70 both ways (bus+cable car) or less one way while the other way you can hike or take a mountain bike(9 km from the city, about 2½ hours when hiking down). The rotating restaurant at the top has some impressive vistas of the region (average meal costs about AR$25) and there are some nice hiking trails behind the restaurant.

Cerro Frey trek. Considered by many as the best 1-3 days trekking in Bariloche. When it's cold enough you can skate in the lake near the refuge. When there's not too much snow you can climb the granite "agujas" (needles) near the refuge which have ways for all levels, or head to Lago Jakob. There are two ways to get in and out: the main one is from Villa Cathedral (only one bus every 1hr 30min), another (a bit longer) one starts from Los Cohiues and goes along the Gutierrez lake (bus #50).

Cerro López. In late spring/summer/early autumn there's a trekking trail to the mountain shelter (not as easy as Otto's). It takes about 3 hours to get there and can be quite tiring, but the views from the shelter are impressive. Be sure to bring along water and some fruit to keep your energy. [[Colonia Suiza (Argentina)|Colonia Suiza]], a Swiss-like borough, is nearby.

Cerro Tronador. Visit the black glacier (ventisquero negro), see the Cerro Tronador and a waterfall over an overhanging cliff named Saltillo de las Nalcas, near the village of Pampa Linda. The busride takes about two hours, and costs AR$90 return or AR$45 one-way (Transitando, 20 de Febrero 300, Bariloche). There is an additional entrance fee to the national park of AR$50 (foreigners). With this bus, you have to hike the last 7 km to the glacier, which is a beautiful experience as there is a hiking trail and the road shows amazing landscape. Some tourist buses take you right to the sights. Near the lookout there is confiteria which sells overpriced food although location is remote and the place astonishing.

Isla Victoria.

Club Andino, San Martín y Independencia (one block south of the Tourism Office in the Centro Cívico, +54 0294 442-2266,+54 0294 442-4579. The Club Andino is where you can get information on treks and activities around Bariloche and in the Nahuel Huapi National Park. They provide maps and descriptions of the trails.

Hiking with Local Mountain Guide. Guided bilingual hikes with mountain guide Maxi Schoffel in Nahuel Huapi National Park.

Turisur. Mitre 219 - Bariloche, - Boat excursions from Bariloche (Puerto Panuelo) to Bosque Arrayanes (about AR$160) & Puerto Blest, they also do the trip across to Chile (Cruce de Lagos) (about US$230).

Cruce de Lagos. All-day cruise of Lake Nahuel Huapi and the National Park. Numerous stops allow you to wander in Andean rain forest, eat at the Hotel Puerto Blest and enjoy the stunning scenery from the turquoise waters of the lake. Buy the pass for a one hour cruise on Lago Frias which brings you near the snow covered volcano, Tronador. Lago Frias is milky jade green in color and the ride includes a short stop at the Chilean frontier. US$230 per person - also known as Cruce Andino.

Paragliding. Ernesto Gutierrez, 02944-462234 / 02944-15413037 offers 30-minute tandem flights for AR$250 and an additional AR$20-30 transportation cost, depending on the location (Cerro Otto or Cerro Cathedral).

Rafting - Several agents offers rafting on the grade I Rio Limay or the grade III/IV Rio Manso. There are several outfitters that organize full day tours with lunch included.

Kayak, Pura Vida - Half-day tours in the Gutierrez Lake.

Horseriding - Horseriding tours to the Nahuel Huapi National Park from Bariloche in English and Spanish are provided by Carol Jones. Also try Tom Wesley Cabalgatas, their 3-hour lake ride is amazing.

Historical Steam Train. A full-day journey into the steppe, riding a 1912 railway, which has been rebuilt keeping its original features.

Pampa Linda & Mount Tronador. Up to 4 days of hiking with nice tails, and a hostel, to and from Bariloche. Consult with the local national park office.

• Chocolate, the city hosts an amazing number of shops where they produce and sell all sorts of varieties of chocolate. Local fruits and licor make some of the fillings. The most renowned ones are Mamuschka,, Benroth, Fenoglio, Rapa Nui, Del Turista, Bonifacio & Tante Frida.

Chocolate, the city hosts an amazing number of shops where they produce and sell all sorts of varieties of chocolate. Local fruits and licor make some of the fillings. The most renowned ones are Mamuschka,, Benroth, Fenoglio, Rapa Nui, Del Turista, Bonifacio & Tante Frida.

Bariloche offers an excellent array of restaurants, with cuisines from all around the world, serving quality food.

• El Boliche de Alberto. Has, according to some, the best meat in Argentina. There are two restaurants in town, and one located about 8 km out of town. Ask a taxi driver to take you there. Be aware that if you arrive after 20:00, you may have to wait in line for 30 min or more, especially if you are a party of 6 or more. El boliche de Alberto has a meat version of the restaurant which specialises in meats such as beef, chicken or pork etc. and there is a pasta version which serves a variety of different pastas.
• Parrilla El Refugio del montañes...de Julian, San Martín 590. Also called "El Refugio Del Montañes", this family-owned restaurant has a homey atmosphere (especially compared to the tourist-trap feel of El Boliche de Alberto) that adds to the experience. The meat is very good, you don't have to wait 2 hr to enjoy it, and the location is conveniently on one of the main avenues in Bariloche. However serving sizes are quite small and pricey (AR$200 for a modest 2-person dinner with desert and no wine)
• Taberna Breogan Celta. This local restaurant features the local smoked wild game. Especially recommended is the meat-n-cheese plate featuring venison, wild boar, salmon, and two kinds of cheese.
• Casita Suiza. One of the best regional restaurants in Bariloche. You also can ask Swiss specialties like fondues, raclettes and pierrades.
• Cassis Restaurant, +54 2944-476167.
• Friends, Bartolome Mitre. Special, great salads and sandwiches—especially good pasta.
• Sesamo. This downtown restaurant serves amazing Middle Eastern food. The best ethnic food in town.
• Morfy's. Small sandwich shop that serves delicious food in massive portions. Offers many types of sandwiches and just about any type of topping for them that you can think of for low prices. The owner is very friendly and speaks Spanish, Hebrew, and a little English.

El Boliche de Alberto. Has, according to some, the best meat in Argentina. There are two restaurants in town, and one located about 8 km out of town. Ask a taxi driver to take you there. Be aware that if you arrive after 20:00, you may have to wait in line for 30 min or more, especially if you are a party of 6 or more. El boliche de Alberto has a meat version of the restaurant which specialises in meats such as beef, chicken or pork etc. and there is a pasta version which serves a variety of different pastas.

Parrilla El Refugio del montañes...de Julian, San Martín 590. Also called "El Refugio Del Montañes", this family-owned restaurant has a homey atmosphere (especially compared to the tourist-trap feel of El Boliche de Alberto) that adds to the experience. The meat is very good, you don't have to wait 2 hr to enjoy it, and the location is conveniently on one of the main avenues in Bariloche. However serving sizes are quite small and pricey (AR$200 for a modest 2-person dinner with desert and no wine)

Taberna Breogan Celta. This local restaurant features the local smoked wild game. Especially recommended is the meat-n-cheese plate featuring venison, wild boar, salmon, and two kinds of cheese.

Casita Suiza. One of the best regional restaurants in Bariloche. You also can ask Swiss specialties like fondues, raclettes and pierrades.

Cassis Restaurant, +54 2944-476167.

Friends, Bartolome Mitre. Special, great salads and sandwiches—especially good pasta.

Sesamo. This downtown restaurant serves amazing Middle Eastern food. The best ethnic food in town.

Morfy's. Small sandwich shop that serves delicious food in massive portions. Offers many types of sandwiches and just about any type of topping for them that you can think of for low prices. The owner is very friendly and speaks Spanish, Hebrew, and a little English.

• Choppin Tapas y Fondue. Eclectic, semi-hippy, great music, with an incredible view of the hotel, golf course, and mountains in the backdrop. Excellent homebrew beer on tap.
• Antares Brewery, Ada M. Elflein 47. Nice variety of food and great beer. The barley wine is especially potent. Two-for-one pints during happy hour, every day 18:00-20:00.
• The Map Room, Urquiza 248, +54 2944 456-856. A bar.
• Wilkenny, San Martín 435. Irish-themed bar popular with tourists. There are better choices.
• South Bar, Juramento. Popular local bar.
• Malabar, Juramento. Popular local bar.

Teens from all over Argentina arrive on a school trip to Bariloche to celebrate their last year of high school with their classmates. That is why Bariloche features a lot of sophisticated dance clubs.

• Bypass. Offers a very elegant environment with lots of laser effects and nice music.
• Cerebro. One of the oldest dance clubs in Bariloche. It is quite nice and it offers laser effects but not as colorful as other dance clubs.
• Grisu. This is a must-visit place. It has wood-like walls and it is designed in such a way that it is easy to get lost if you don't know your way around. It has a very quite place with a huge window showing the Nahuel Huapi lake. There are no laser effects but the bartenders are experts and it is worth watching them doing all sorts of tricks.
• Rocket. Four floors dance club full of light, colors and sounds. Good laser show and nice atmosphere.
• Genux. Futurist-looking disco. Open since 1993.

Bypass. Offers a very elegant environment with lots of laser effects and nice music.

Cerebro. One of the oldest dance clubs in Bariloche. It is quite nice and it offers laser effects but not as colorful as other dance clubs.

Grisu. This is a must-visit place. It has wood-like walls and it is designed in such a way that it is easy to get lost if you don't know your way around. It has a very quite place with a huge window showing the Nahuel Huapi lake. There are no laser effects but the bartenders are experts and it is worth watching them doing all sorts of tricks.

Rocket. Four floors dance club full of light, colors and sounds. Good laser show and nice atmosphere.

Genux. Futurist-looking disco. Open since 1993.

Choppin Tapas y Fondue. Eclectic, semi-hippy, great music, with an incredible view of the hotel, golf course, and mountains in the backdrop. Excellent homebrew beer on tap.

Antares Brewery, Ada M. Elflein 47. Nice variety of food and great beer. The barley wine is especially potent. Two-for-one pints during happy hour, every day 18:00-20:00.

The Map Room, Urquiza 248, +54 2944 456-856. A bar.

Wilkenny, San Martín 435. Irish-themed bar popular with tourists. There are better choices.

South Bar, Juramento. Popular local bar.

Malabar, Juramento. Popular local bar.

Because of the high tourist presence, petty crime is a reality but there tend to be a large amount of police in force and the smaller and relatively affluent nature of the city makes crime less likely than in Buenos Aires. Still, exercise caution and keep valuables within sight. Never hike alone on the trails which touch the city, particularly up to Piedras Blancas. There have been many reported robberies of tourists on these paths.

If you decide to change money with the street changers, be very careful of fake notes, check every bill and count them properly.

• El Bolsón – A small hippie town (founded in the 1970s) in a mountainous valley about 120 km (75 mi) south of Bariloche. There's a twice weekly outdoor flea market (get there in the morning, it closes down around 15:00). Transportation on the El Valle bus line is AR$24 one way from Bariloche and is worth it for the scenery alone.
• Villa la Angostura – A small town about an hours drive from Bariloche, very picturesque, you can also hike a 12-km trail to the famous Bosque Arrayanes. Buses regularly go there from the bus terminal (1½ hrs, AR$52), and the journey along the lake is fantastic.
• Chile – It is actually possible to hike to Chile, namely Cochamó, which is close to Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas, passing by the famous and picturesque La Junta. There is a small police checkpoint at Paso El León where you will receive a small note with which you have to head to the police station once you arrive in the next big city to complete your registration and entrance into the country.

[[El Bolson|El Bolsón]] – A small hippie town (founded in the 1970s) in a mountainous valley about 120 km (75 mi) south of Bariloche. There's a twice weekly outdoor flea market (get there in the morning, it closes down around 15:00). Transportation on the El Valle bus line is AR$24 one way from Bariloche and is worth it for the scenery alone.

[[Villa la Angostura]] – A small town about an hours drive from Bariloche, very picturesque, you can also hike a 12-km trail to the famous Bosque Arrayanes. Buses regularly go there from the bus terminal (1½ hrs, AR$52), and the journey along the lake is fantastic.

[[Chile]] – It is actually possible to hike to Chile, namely [[Cochamó Valley|Cochamó]], which is close to [[Puerto Montt]] and [[Puerto Varas]], passing by the famous and picturesque La Junta. There is a small police checkpoint at Paso El León where you will receive a small note with which you have to head to the police station once you arrive in the next big city to complete your registration and entrance into the country.