Shantou, (汕头; Suan1tao5 in Teochew, Shàntóu in Mandarin), known as Swatow in the local language, is a coastal city and Special Economic Zone in Guangdong Province in China. It is located in the east of the province near the border with Fujian. It has a population of around 5,500,000 as of 2015 and a booming economy.
The city came to prominence during the 19th century when it was established as one of the treaty ports for trading with the West. In the 1980s it was designated as one of China's Special Economic Zones with tax breaks and other government measures to encourage development. See List of Chinese provinces and regions for more detailed explanations of "treaty port" and "special economic zone" if required.
Overseas visitors are not common in the rural areas around Shantou, and those of non-Chinese ethnicity will definitely be an attraction to residents. Those unaccustomed to this may feel intimidated. However, this is a very friendly type of attention, and if you look at it as an opportunity to talk to new people, it can be a highlight of your trip. Do not be surprised if people want their picture taken with you, or if they yell to friends and family to come look at you as well. Any sort of communication you attempt to make, especially in the local Teochew dialect, will almost always be happily received.
Teochew is the main local language, though most younger locals speak Mandarin as well.
- The old town. Most of the lovely historic buildings are so dilapidated that it seems like a European city that has been bombed. They are slowly being torn down and replaced with ugly modern buildings, so see it while you can! The one section that is marked for preservation is the part that is next to the renovated post office and the Shantou Founding Museum (see below).
- Shantou Museum. This museum has the space for an impressive collection, but not all the exhibit halls are open. There are exhibits on Buddhist figurines and sculptures, paintings and calligraphy, ceramic wares, and relics recovered from a Ming Dynasty commercial vessel that was discovered in 2007 just a little way southeast of Shantou. Past temporary exhibits include photos of Shanghai of a bygone era,
- Buddhist Pagoda Mountain, In Chenhai.
- Coastal defense fort 石炮台公園. A fort by the sea, with replica cannons. You may be able to smell some interesting strains of mold inside, admire the moat and bridges, or go rollerskating in the middle of the fort (with Chinese techno music of course).
- The former residence of Chen Cihong, Qianmei Village, Longdu Town, Chenghai District (澄海区澄海区隆都镇前美村) (North of central Shantou. If you go by bus, be sure to ask when the last trip back into town is, though if you miss it, you might still be able to catch a different bus by walking to the highway. Bus 103 from Shantou can drop you off at Qianmai (前美) and a further 15 minutes walk is needed., +86 754 85786955. 08:30-17:30. A mansion (or a mini-palace) built in the early 20th century, still pretty much intact. It was built in traditional Chinese style, with houses from one to three stories, with sloped tile roofs. People still live in many of these houses. Outside of the tourist center and museum and the parking lot, one can wander in the alleys to feel the atmosphere. For those that pan the ubiquitous residential highrises of modern Chinese cities, they really should get a reality check here to see what unadorned traditional housing was like: small, cramped quarters with few modern amenities (do they have indoor plumbing?), outhouses here and there, with occasional pungent smell of garbage in the sweltering summer. There is access to electricity, however, and one can hear the sounds of TV and radio while wandering in the alleys, and see an occasional A/C unit here and there. ¥40.
- Nan'ao Island 南澳. This is one of the most beautiful islands in China. It used to be inconvenient to go to the island, with ferries and boats the only modes of transport. All that changed with the opening of a new 9 km bridge. The island still hasn't been overdeveloped and has kept its original view. Here you can not only get the most gorgeous sea view but also a taste of the real life of fishermen in China. Besides that, it is a fantastic place to taste all kinds of seafood. On this island, one can see a Song Dynasty fresh water well right on an ocean-front beach (宋井 Song Jin, Y 16) with the accompanying beach and park. There is the ancient military headquarter of the local island and coastal defense (总兵府 Zhong Bing Fu, Y 13), with a marker for the former border between Fujian and Guangdong provinces (the entire island is now in Guangdong province). Also see the wind-powered turbines on the mountains. The transportation in the island is not that convenient but you can hire a car to drive you around it for whole day. The fee is usually cheap. It cost about 200-250 yuan a day. Bus #161a and #161b from Shantou will take you to the main town on this island (后宅 Hou Zhai) for Y 15 in 2016. From there you will need to find transportation to particular sites. Ferry services are also available but runs only about 5 times per day.
- Shantou Founding Museum 汕头开埠博物馆 (Shantou Kai Bubowuguan). Not to be confused with Shantou Museum. This museum is devoted to the establishment of Swatow (Shantou) as a treaty port in the 19th century, and its subsequent history and daily life.
- Qing Yun Yan 青云岩 in DaHao 达濠. Temples and a lake on a cemetery hill.
- DaHao Ancient Walled Park 达濠古城公园 in DaHao Hao Jiang district 达濠濠江区永濠街. A rather small but beautifully landscaped park, enclosed by a thin ancient city wall.
The old town. Most of the lovely historic buildings are so dilapidated that it seems like a European city that has been bombed. They are slowly being torn down and replaced with ugly modern buildings, so see it while you can! The one section that is marked for preservation is the part that is next to the renovated post office and the Shantou Founding Museum (see below).
Shantou Museum. This museum has the space for an impressive collection, but not all the exhibit halls are open. There are exhibits on Buddhist figurines and sculptures, paintings and calligraphy, ceramic wares, and relics recovered from a Ming Dynasty commercial vessel that was discovered in 2007 just a little way southeast of Shantou. Past temporary exhibits include photos of Shanghai of a bygone era,
Buddhist Pagoda Mountain, In Chenhai.
Coastal defense fort 石炮台公園. A fort by the sea, with replica cannons. You may be able to smell some interesting strains of mold inside, admire the moat and bridges, or go rollerskating in the middle of the fort (with Chinese techno music of course).
The former residence of Chen Cihong, Qianmei Village, Longdu Town, Chenghai District (澄海区澄海区隆都镇前美村) (North of central Shantou. If you go by bus, be sure to ask when the last trip back into town is, though if you miss it, you might still be able to catch a different bus by walking to the highway. Bus 103 from Shantou can drop you off at Qianmai (前美) and a further 15 minutes walk is needed., +86 754 85786955. 08:30-17:30. A mansion (or a mini-palace) built in the early 20th century, still pretty much intact. It was built in traditional Chinese style, with houses from one to three stories, with sloped tile roofs. People still live in many of these houses. Outside of the tourist center and museum and the parking lot, one can wander in the alleys to feel the atmosphere. For those that pan the ubiquitous residential highrises of modern Chinese cities, they really should get a reality check here to see what unadorned traditional housing was like: small, cramped quarters with few modern amenities (do they have indoor plumbing?), outhouses here and there, with occasional pungent smell of garbage in the sweltering summer. There is access to electricity, however, and one can hear the sounds of TV and radio while wandering in the alleys, and see an occasional A/C unit here and there. ¥40.
Nan'ao Island 南澳. This is one of the most beautiful islands in China. It used to be inconvenient to go to the island, with ferries and boats the only modes of transport. All that changed with the opening of a new 9 km bridge. The island still hasn't been overdeveloped and has kept its original view. Here you can not only get the most gorgeous sea view but also a taste of the real life of fishermen in China. Besides that, it is a fantastic place to taste all kinds of seafood. On this island, one can see a Song Dynasty fresh water well right on an ocean-front beach (宋井 Song Jin, Y 16) with the accompanying beach and park. There is the ancient military headquarter of the local island and coastal defense (总兵府 Zhong Bing Fu, Y 13), with a marker for the former border between Fujian and Guangdong provinces (the entire island is now in Guangdong province). Also see the wind-powered turbines on the mountains. The transportation in the island is not that convenient but you can hire a car to drive you around it for whole day. The fee is usually cheap. It cost about 200-250 yuan a day. Bus #161a and #161b from Shantou will take you to the main town on this island (后宅 Hou Zhai) for Y 15 in 2016. From there you will need to find transportation to particular sites. Ferry services are also available but runs only about 5 times per day.
Shantou Founding Museum 汕头开埠博物馆 (Shantou Kai Bubowuguan). Not to be confused with Shantou Museum. This museum is devoted to the establishment of Swatow (Shantou) as a treaty port in the 19th century, and its subsequent history and daily life.
Qing Yun Yan 青云岩 in DaHao 达濠. Temples and a lake on a cemetery hill.
DaHao Ancient Walled Park 达濠古城公园 in DaHao Hao Jiang district 达濠濠江区永濠街. A rather small but beautifully landscaped park, enclosed by a thin ancient city wall.
- Lotus supermarkets. There are at least four locations throughout the city.
- Suning Plaza Mall. A western-style mall that just opened in Oct. 2015, with Pizza Hut and the first Starbucks & Haagan Daz in Shantou. There are other cafes in this mall where one can overpay for coffee.
- Lotus Center. Another western-style mall that opened in 2015, with the second Starbucks to open in Shantou, and a Lotus supermarket in the basement. There are other places in this mall where one can overpay for their coffee.
Lotus supermarkets. There are at least four locations throughout the city.
Suning Plaza Mall. A western-style mall that just opened in Oct. 2015, with Pizza Hut and the first Starbucks & Haagan Daz in Shantou. There are other cafes in this mall where one can overpay for coffee.
Lotus Center. Another western-style mall that opened in 2015, with the second Starbucks to open in Shantou, and a Lotus supermarket in the basement. There are other places in this mall where one can overpay for their coffee.
Lots of local food available which is also famous in China, including Beef Balls (牛肉丸), Baked Oyster Cakes (蚝烙, Oh Lua in Chaoshanese), Seafood, etc.
- Lianhua Vegetarian Restaurant, Haibin Road, Dayang Group Building, west wing, +86 754 8530028, +86 754 8520098. Vegetarian chain restaurant also found in Chaozhou and Jieyang.
- Hotel Internationale restaurant, Jinsha Donglu near intersection with Dongxia Nanlu. On the 4th floor of International Hotel, this Chinese restaurant serves good dim sum and Hong Kong style dishes. Prices are also on par with those of Hong Kong.
- Jiahe Harbour View Hotel 嘉和海景酒店 By the waterfront near the fortress, has breakfast buffet, consisting of mostly Chinese food, for Y48.
Lianhua Vegetarian Restaurant, Haibin Road, Dayang Group Building, west wing, +86 754 8530028, +86 754 8520098. Vegetarian chain restaurant also found in Chaozhou and Jieyang.
Hotel Internationale restaurant, Jinsha Donglu near intersection with Dongxia Nanlu. On the 4th floor of International Hotel, this Chinese restaurant serves good dim sum and Hong Kong style dishes. Prices are also on par with those of Hong Kong.