Aguas Calientes (now officially Machu Picchu Pueblo) is a small town at the bottom of the valley next to Machu Picchu, and the principal access point to the site. All visitors to Machu Picchu pass through Aguas Calientes, and unless you're on a daytrip from Cusco, some versions of the Inca Trail, or you plan to spend a fortune and stay at the sole lodge at the Machu Picchu site, you will have to spend at least one night here.
The town is perched on the bank of the Urubamba river. Across the river are sheer cliffs, and a creek flows down from the jungle into the river, bisecting the town. Several small bridges cross the creek. Virtually all of the streets are pedestrian-only walking streets, making it very easy to get around.
- Machu Picchu. This is what most people come to see. The bus from the town Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu costs S/45 per person for a return trip, or US$12 one-way (Mar 2018). You can walk to the ruins for free, but it's steep uphill and takes about an hour and a half. The toilets at the top cost S/2 to use. You have to buy your ticket for entering the ruins at the Cultural Centre in Aguas Calientes (if you're not doing the whole tour from Cusco; tickets are available at the Peru Rail office there). This ticket costs S/152 per person (including entry to Huayna Picchu) and is now valid for only one day. The office will not sell same-day tickets after 14:30 and that the last entry into Machu Picchu is at 16:00, with visitors herded out by 17:00. The office will ask for your passport when buying tickets rather than a photocopy, though agents may be flexible. Aguas Calientes is overpriced and nasty, so if you can stay in Ollantaytambo and get the first train at 06:10, it's way better. You'll arrive about 08:00, still way before the large tour buses (10:00-14:00). Remember to take water and snacks with you as the snacks available at the ruins are insanely expensive. Bring water with you to Aguas Calientes, as the shops there charge about double. Best to bring a packed lunch from Cusco, if possible. S/152.
Machu Picchu. This is what most people come to see. The bus from the town Aguas Calientes up to [[Machu Picchu]] costs S/45 per person for a return trip, or US$12 one-way (Mar 2018). You can walk to the ruins for free, but it's steep uphill and takes about an hour and a half. The toilets at the top cost S/2 to use. You have to buy your ticket for entering the ruins at the Cultural Centre in Aguas Calientes (if you're not doing the whole tour from Cusco; tickets are available at the Peru Rail office there). This ticket costs S/152 per person (including entry to Huayna Picchu) and is now valid for only one day. The office will not sell same-day tickets after 14:30 and that the last entry into Machu Picchu is at 16:00, with visitors herded out by 17:00. The office will ask for your passport when buying tickets rather than a photocopy, though agents may be flexible. Aguas Calientes is overpriced and nasty, so if you can stay in Ollantaytambo and get the first train at 06:10, it's way better. You'll arrive about 08:00, still way before the large tour buses (10:00-14:00). Remember to take water and snacks with you as the snacks available at the ruins are insanely expensive. Bring water with you to Aguas Calientes, as the shops there charge about double. Best to bring a packed lunch from Cusco, if possible. S/152.
Aguas Calientes is in the cloud forest, and there are a several hikes in the jungle and along the river. The town also offers the usual activities for a tourist location, as well as the thermal baths that give the town its name.
Birdwatchers can find Torrent Ducks and White-Capped Dippers in the river, and Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks--the national bird of Peru--can be found in the jungle outside of town. Several books are available discussing the bird life near and around Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes that also discuss birds that can be found in the cloud forest.
In town:
- Thermal Baths. Soak your weary Inca Trail-beaten muscles in one of the hot springs for which the town was named (after taking a thorough shower, of course). The baths can be found by walking up the hill in town. These are not bad, but the feel is much like a public pool and they can be crowded, since everyone wants to get into the hottest pools. You can rent towels or swimming trunks before you go in if need be. S/20; S/10 Peru Nationals.
- Massage. Dozens of massage parlors abound in town (all legit, although of varying quality). Prices from S/40 for a one-hour massage.
- Buy Tickets to Machu Picchu, Ministerio de Cultura (The Ministerio de Cultura is in the main plaza, which is across the creek from the train station, about one block uphill and downstream from where the creek meets the river.. Although it is strongly recommended to buy tickets to Machu Picchu ahead of time, they can also be purchased in town at the Ministerio de Cultura. It is in the main plaza.
Going downstream towards Santa Teresa, you can follow the train tracks or follow the road along the river. This road runs until it reaches a bridge that crosses the river where the road winds up to Machu Picchu. At this point you can turn right and cut up to the train tracks and continue to follow the river along the tracks. Walk on the tracks is prohibited and dangerous. In the downstream direction you can find:
- Putucusi. Quechua for “Happy Mountain”. Putucusi is on the same side of the river as Machu Picchu Pueblo. Follow the train tracks a very short distance away from town in the direction of Santa Teresa and Machu Picchu (downhill from town) you will shortly come across a trail on your right heading uphill. (If you come to a train tunnel, you've gone too far.) This trail leads to the summit, about 2370 m above sea level. It is the mountain adjacent to Machu Picchu. The trail is steep with quite a few near-vertical wooden ladders. The elevation gain is about 300 m from Machu Picchu Pueblo. The summit offers amazing views of Machu Picchu if it's a clear day. In March 2013 there was a sign at the start of the trail saying it is closed for rehabilitation, but the entry gate (a few hundred metres along the trail) is not locked and the trail is in good condition. Allow about one hour each way and make sure you'll be out before it gets dark. Wear long pants to avoid insect bites and take some water.
- Butterfly House. It's near the camping ground; if you get to the bridge you've gone too far.
- Machu Picchu Museum and Botanical Gardens. Across the bridge on the opposite side from town at the bottom of the path leading up to Machu Picchu is a path leading to the Machu Picchu museum and botanical gardens, which are also worth checking out if you have the time.
- Ecological Centre. Further along the tracks near the bridge to Machu Picchu you will reach an ecological centre with rainforest walks that will take about one hour of your time. You can reach this by following the road towards Machu Picchu as to avoid walking through the railway tunnel. There is a stair case leading up to the train tracks near the bridge to Machu Picchu.
- Gardens of Mandor. If you continue further along the tracks towards Hidroeléctrica at 114.5 km you will reach the gardens and waterfall of Mandor, which is private property and requires foreigners to pay S/10 for entry. This is a nice walk with many orchids and some rainforest and trails to a waterfall.
Going upstream towards Ollantaytambo;
Following the train tracks upstream from Machu Picchu Pueblo towards Ollantaytambo you will see some other ruins and a waterfall.
Thermal Baths. Soak your weary Inca Trail-beaten muscles in one of the hot springs for which the town was named (after taking a thorough shower, of course). The baths can be found by walking up the hill in town. These are not bad, but the feel is much like a public pool and they can be crowded, since everyone wants to get into the hottest pools. You can rent towels or swimming trunks before you go in if need be. S/20; S/10 Peru Nationals.
Massage. Dozens of massage parlors abound in town (all legit, although of varying quality). Prices from S/40 for a one-hour massage.
Buy Tickets to Machu Picchu, Ministerio de Cultura (The Ministerio de Cultura is in the main plaza, which is across the creek from the train station, about one block uphill and downstream from where the creek meets the river.. Although it is strongly recommended to buy tickets to Machu Picchu ahead of time, they can also be purchased in town at the Ministerio de Cultura. It is in the main plaza.
Putucusi. Quechua for “Happy Mountain”. Putucusi is on the same side of the river as Machu Picchu Pueblo. Follow the train tracks a very short distance away from town in the direction of Santa Teresa and Machu Picchu (downhill from town) you will shortly come across a trail on your right heading uphill. (If you come to a train tunnel, you've gone too far.) This trail leads to the summit, about 2370 m above sea level. It is the mountain adjacent to Machu Picchu. The trail is steep with quite a few near-vertical wooden ladders. The elevation gain is about 300 m from Machu Picchu Pueblo. The summit offers amazing views of Machu Picchu if it's a clear day. In March 2013 there was a sign at the start of the trail saying it is closed for rehabilitation, but the entry gate (a few hundred metres along the trail) is not locked and the trail is in good condition. Allow about one hour each way and make sure you'll be out before it gets dark. Wear long pants to avoid insect bites and take some water.
Butterfly House. It's near the camping ground; if you get to the bridge you've gone too far.
Machu Picchu Museum and Botanical Gardens. Across the bridge on the opposite side from town at the bottom of the path leading up to Machu Picchu is a path leading to the Machu Picchu museum and botanical gardens, which are also worth checking out if you have the time.
Ecological Centre. Further along the tracks near the bridge to Machu Picchu you will reach an ecological centre with rainforest walks that will take about one hour of your time. You can reach this by following the road towards Machu Picchu as to avoid walking through the railway tunnel. There is a stair case leading up to the train tracks near the bridge to Machu Picchu.
Gardens of Mandor. If you continue further along the tracks towards Hidroeléctrica at 114.5 km you will reach the gardens and waterfall of Mandor, which is private property and requires foreigners to pay S/10 for entry. This is a nice walk with many orchids and some rainforest and trails to a waterfall.
Prices on most things are relatively high, so if you're on a very tight budget, bring some snacks and water from Cusco. If you're planning to use a credit card for hotel or purchases, note that most places only accept Visa. However, prices on basics such as snacks and water are not much higher than Cusco and the Sacred Valley.
There is a big market along the road to Machu Picchu, and a big handicraft market in front of the railway station.
Some shops sell hand-painted t-shirts, which are far more expensive than other t-shirts in Peru but are a little more creative.
There are many restaurants catering to travelers. Prices can be expected to be somewhat higher due to the isolation of Aguas Calientes and the difficulty of importing supplies. Some travelers have reported incorrectly calculated bills and hidden charges on bills. One ploy to be aware of is for the bill to be 10-15% more than advertised due to "tax" and "servicio". This is fairly easy to avoid if you are aware of it - when the tout is inviting you into the restaurant, he or she will name a price. Agree to the price and say, "No tax, no servicio, no nada mas." When they bring the bill, you may have to remind them of this agreement, but there is usually no problem if it is agreed up front. The waiter may tell you he earns no wages, and the service charge is his only pay, but this is not true. Only ever pay what is advertised.
The town is full of pizza restaurants, which are a safe option.
There are also Chifa restaurants (Chinese food) and Peruvian restaurants serving set menus. These will usually run S/10-15, and depending on where you go will be something along the lines of palta rellena (stuffed avocado), soup, main course (generally trout, beef or chicken), tea, coffee, fruit juice, wine or pisco sour.
The smaller restaurants up the hill will often offer more food for half the price of the larger establishments, and the quality is usually the same.
There are two cafes outside the entrance to Machu Picchu that have decent cafe-style food and are surprisingly reasonable.
- Indio Feliz, Avenida Pachacútec (A short walk up Pachacútec from the plaza.. A nice French-run restaurant for those willing to spend a bit more than at the other places. Meals will cost about S/50 here plus drinks but the food is outstanding. There is also a S/77 prix fixe menu that provides three courses. The restaurant is owned by a Frenchman and his Peruvian wife, who are very friendly. S/50, menu S/77.
Indio Feliz, Avenida Pachacútec (A short walk up Pachacútec from the plaza.. A nice French-run restaurant for those willing to spend a bit more than at the other places. Meals will cost about S/50 here plus drinks but the food is outstanding. There is also a S/77 prix fixe menu that provides three courses. The restaurant is owned by a Frenchman and his Peruvian wife, who are very friendly. S/50, menu S/77.
Many bars try to lure in customers with 4-for-1 happy hours lasting the whole evening. Beware that the price is fourfold of the normal prices in Cusco. These "four" cocktails are also each about the size of one normal-priced cocktail. It is often not a terrible deal, but it is not truly four-for-one.
Signs warn that it is not allowed to sell and/or consume alcoholic beverages after 23:00. However, it's not too hard to find a place to drink some beers after this time.
Internet cafes are spread around the town with slow connections. They offer local and long-distance calls as well. They charge S/3-4 per hour and there are also CD and DVD burning facilities to store your photos. DVDs cost S/15 each to burn.
There is a 24-hour pharmacy "Multiservicios Botica Carita Feliz" in Calle Collasuyo, north-west of the main square Plaza Manco Ccapac.
- Cusco take the train.
- Ollantaytambo take the train.
- Santa Teresa head down stream, its about a four hour hike.
- Choquequirao you'll need camping equipment, food, a map and GPS would be good too.