Vang Vieng

Laos

Nam Song river Vang Vieng (ວັງວຽງ) (also Vang Viang) is a riverside town in Central Laos.

Once little more than a bus stop on the long haul between Vientiane at the Thai border and the World Heritage Site of Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng has managed to become a destination in its own right and a popular stop on the unofficial Banana Pancake Trail. Still not much more than three streets and a bus station, the main attractions are the river flowing through the spectacularly wild carst formations, laid back countryside and many caves. Many outdoor tours are available.

Anyone who has travelled in Southeast Asia will have heard about tubing, an activity that dominates this town and its visitors. It was opened up by hedonistic backpackers, and the atmosphere of the town is one of lethargy by day and debauchery by night. Tourists sprawl out in the pillow-filled restaurants, termed "TV bars", watching re-runs of US sitcoms, Friends and Family Guy episodes, until the sun goes down, and then party heavily until the early hours.

A couple of kilometres upstream, the pulsating music, drinking games and drug-fuelled debauchery of the increasingly lively riverside "tubing" bars starts at lunchtime. The majority of the bars from the start of tubing back into town have been closed in an attempt to improve safety; 27 tourists died in 2011 while partying on the river. In 2014 the government closed down many of the riverside bars to reduce the dangerously excessive partying. By February 2016 just two bars were open.

Vang Vieng may have established itself as the exception to the rule that Laos doesn't have nightlife. It does have potential as a base for adventure tourism which attracts a few more sedate foreign sightseers. However, it can be considered a noisy "back-packer hell", and so those wishing to avoid noisy, selfish teenagers away from their parents for the first time and instead seek something Laotian would do well to either use Vang Vieng only as a base to explore the surrounding countryside or avoid it all together.

Since the 2014, the city has developed into a popular base for outdoor activites. Tour companies are everywhere in the city and offer tubing, cave visits, kayaking, ziplines, swimming in water falls, dirt buggies, and combinations thereof.

  • Padeng Cave and Ring Cave. Across the river a 1.5-km path marked by white flags cuts through the fields towards the limestone mountains. The smallest hill has very rickety ladders, and somewhat dangerous, to aid in climbing to the top. Halfway up the mountain is a cave. Another 1 km along the path past the mountain goes through a small forest and arrives at a cave. A few sleepy Laotians guard the cave's entrance and will only charge 10,000 kip. However, on exit, they'll ask for 50,000 for the guide and 50,000 per lamp. A couple of men carving reeds with machetes are nearby so negotiation may be difficult. 10,000 kip for the hill, 10,000 kip for the cave, 50,000 kip for a guide and 50,000 kip to rent a torch.
  • Tham Poukham (Blue Lagoon). 08:00-18:00. A spring-fed lagoon at the bottom of "Golden Cave". Nice place to relax, swim and play on the rope swing. The waters are inhabited by a few hundred carp that will eat locally sold fish food out of your hand. The cave above requires a modest 100 m hike up a makeshift bamboo ladder. Once inside, there is a short walk to the Sleeping Golden Buddha and glimmering stalactites about 300 m further inside. 10,000 kip entry and 10,000 kip to rent a head-torch, recommended if you go deeper into the cave than the Buddha. Guides for the cave are advertised at 50,000 kip.
  • Bicycle drink stop towards Blue Lagoon. A couple of small shops on scenic hill, selling drinks and simple meals en route to Blue Lagoon and several caves. Also mechanic shop providing bike tire air and possible repairs. Also, this is the starting point for hiking up to Pha Ngeun Peak.
  • Sunset Hill / Pha Ngeun. An extremely steep half-hour hike that offers a fantastic 360° view over the surrounding valley and karst mountains. The trail is in excellent condition, with steps, banisters, fences and cables on the more dangerous parts. Bring adequate footwear. Try to be at the entrance at around 16:00-16:30, so you reach the summit on time for the breathtaking sunset. 10,000 kip.
  • Xang Cave. Decent cave but not worth the 15,000 kip entrance fee plus 2,000 kip per person/3,000 kip per motorbike bridge crossing fee. The cave is well lit and has stairs running throughout that makes it an easy self-guided tour. One part has a really nice view of the farms surrounding the city. If you've been to other caves it's really not worth the money as it's similar but more expensive.
  • Nang Oua Kham Cave. Very nice cave and superior to the one at Blue Lagoon. You might feel the entrance a bit tight at first time but when you get past that most parts are easy to walk. There is mud and water so be prepared if you wish to explore all the cave. Price includes head lamp. Coordinates 18°53'55.7"N 102°21'09.3"E. 10,000 kip.

Padeng Cave and Ring Cave. Across the river a 1.5-km path marked by white flags cuts through the fields towards the limestone mountains. The smallest hill has very rickety ladders, and somewhat dangerous, to aid in climbing to the top. Halfway up the mountain is a cave. Another 1 km along the path past the mountain goes through a small forest and arrives at a cave. A few sleepy Laotians guard the cave's entrance and will only charge 10,000 kip. However, on exit, they'll ask for 50,000 for the guide and 50,000 per lamp. A couple of men carving reeds with machetes are nearby so negotiation may be difficult. 10,000 kip for the hill, 10,000 kip for the cave, 50,000 kip for a guide and 50,000 kip to rent a torch.

Tham Poukham (Blue Lagoon). 08:00-18:00. A spring-fed lagoon at the bottom of "Golden Cave". Nice place to relax, swim and play on the rope swing. The waters are inhabited by a few hundred carp that will eat locally sold fish food out of your hand. The cave above requires a modest 100 m hike up a makeshift bamboo ladder. Once inside, there is a short walk to the Sleeping Golden Buddha and glimmering stalactites about 300 m further inside. 10,000 kip entry and 10,000 kip to rent a head-torch, recommended if you go deeper into the cave than the Buddha. Guides for the cave are advertised at 50,000 kip.

Bicycle drink stop towards Blue Lagoon. A couple of small shops on scenic hill, selling drinks and simple meals en route to Blue Lagoon and several caves. Also mechanic shop providing bike tire air and possible repairs. Also, this is the starting point for hiking up to Pha Ngeun Peak.

Sunset Hill / Pha Ngeun. An extremely steep half-hour hike that offers a fantastic 360° view over the surrounding valley and karst mountains. The trail is in excellent condition, with steps, banisters, fences and cables on the more dangerous parts. Bring adequate footwear. Try to be at the entrance at around 16:00-16:30, so you reach the summit on time for the breathtaking sunset. 10,000 kip.

Xang Cave. Decent cave but not worth the 15,000 kip entrance fee plus 2,000 kip per person/3,000 kip per motorbike bridge crossing fee. The cave is well lit and has stairs running throughout that makes it an easy self-guided tour. One part has a really nice view of the farms surrounding the city. If you've been to other caves it's really not worth the money as it's similar but more expensive.

Nang Oua Kham Cave. Very nice cave and superior to the one at Blue Lagoon. You might feel the entrance a bit tight at first time but when you get past that most parts are easy to walk. There is mud and water so be prepared if you wish to explore all the cave. Price includes head lamp. Coordinates 18°53'55.7"N 102°21'09.3"E. 10,000 kip.

  • Kayaking. This covers the same part of the river as tubing (and a more untouched part further upriver). Kayaking includes lunch and different caves. Some of the caves takes more than an hour to walk through, with bats and other creatures.
  • Teach English to local children with EEFA. Equal Education For All, or EEFA, runs afterschool English classes for local children in Northern and Western villages of Vang Vieng. They are always looking for volunteers who can ideally stay for a month at least, but if you've only got a couple of days then it's better than nothing. Anyone is welcome to observe the classes, participate and contribute in any way you can. Look for Alex at Vang Vieng Organic Farm or message Equal Education For All on Facebook.
  • Organic Farm. There's an organic farm that offers volunteering opportunities. It is noise-free until about 11:00 and again when the last revelers go back to town at about 18:00 as its location beside the river is also used as the starting point for tubing and the first tubing bars are nearby. If going tubing this is an option for a healthy lunch prior to commencing your tubing adventure. The organic farm has dormitory (30,000 kip), budget and more luxurious rooms for rent. They teach the village children, build mud brick buildings, learn/teach farming, eat organic food and go to sleep at 22:00. The farm has also a kitchen and sells organic food.
  • River Swings. Playing on the very high swings over the river and sliding on a slide. Be careful. Perforated eardrums, broken ribs and permanent hearing damage are common injuries resulting from going the wrong way. Also foot injuries from hitting rocks, and sometimes death when going head first or falling off platforms when drunk. The local hospital is not equipped to diagnose or treat these serious injuries. Vientiane has the closest (if Spartan) EMT facility but no English speaking specialists, so you may have to travel to Udon Thani (Thailand) for treatment. All the rope swings and slides have now been removed for safely reasons.
  • Tubing. 12:00-14:00 is a reasonable time to go because earlier everyone else would be still asleep. Look at the magnificent view of the mountains rising directly beside the river. Many beer bars along the way, almost all in the first third of the trip. Some hire dry bags (hire for 15,000 kip or buy own nearby for 50,000 kip) may not be of the best quality, cameras can get ruined by faulty rented to tourists, so beware and if in doubt, don't bring your camera. Tubes have to be back by 18:00 or loose 20,000 kip from your deposit. In winter it gets a bit cold from 16:00, so start early to make the most of drinking your way down the river. Ride at least one rapid before starting the party to avoid disturbing guests visiting the Organic Farm (nice place for lunch before commencing tubing). Some Westerners have the job of promoting bars. The party scene has taken over and the owners use humongous loudspeakers, effectively blocking out any singing of birds. Beware of tubes getting stolen while stopping at bars, you may lose your deposit and the ride down. Tubes get stacked up at each bar so keep an eye on how many are left, especially at the first few bars where lots of people arrive without their own tube. If you're not used to drinking liquor, stick with beer and for reasons of safety and common sense consider avoiding alcohol completely if entering the water. The amount of alcohol in buckets can be seriously high and can kick in suddenly; you won't be the first one to be too drunk to make your way back on the river. As of 2016, only 2 bars remain open, and both are fairly close to the beginning of the tubing. Consequently, many people stop at the last bar and drink until night-time, then take a tuk-tuk back into town. During rainy season there is more water in the river and eye infections are common. 55,000 kip for the tube + 60,000 kip deposit.
  • Volunteering, Ban Phonpeng. Offers immersion and volunteer opportunities. FruitFriends is a social enterprise working with only local staff. Profits are used to organize community-based projects. FruitFriends has a small homestay and your help is much appreciated. 2 weeks, USD400; 4 weeks, USD600; 12 weeks, USD1,240.
  • Sae Lao Organic Garden & Restaurant. You can visit this organic garden and restaurant just before or after your visit to the Blue Lagoon. They also undertake eco projects to try and protect the natural environment in the Vang Vieng region, and you can volunteer.
  • Tham Nam Cave (The Water Cave). The main attraction is to go tubing into the cave. It is really huge, taking 15-30 minutes to get to the end, and then the same time to get back. There are two ropes inside the cave, be sure to follow both. Water is rather cold, but bearable. There is also a zipline at the cave entrance. 10,000 kip for tube and head torch, 10,000 kip to cross the bridge (although you can swim across the river), 3,000 kip for parking a motorbike or a bycicle.

Kayaking. This covers the same part of the river as tubing (and a more untouched part further upriver). Kayaking includes lunch and different caves. Some of the caves takes more than an hour to walk through, with bats and other creatures.

Teach English to local children with EEFA. Equal Education For All, or EEFA, runs afterschool English classes for local children in Northern and Western villages of Vang Vieng. They are always looking for volunteers who can ideally stay for a month at least, but if you've only got a couple of days then it's better than nothing. Anyone is welcome to observe the classes, participate and contribute in any way you can. Look for Alex at Vang Vieng Organic Farm or message Equal Education For All on Facebook.

Organic Farm. There's an organic farm that offers volunteering opportunities. It is noise-free until about 11:00 and again when the last revelers go back to town at about 18:00 as its location beside the river is also used as the starting point for tubing and the first tubing bars are nearby. If going tubing this is an option for a healthy lunch prior to commencing your tubing adventure. The organic farm has dormitory (30,000 kip), budget and more luxurious rooms for rent. They teach the village children, build mud brick buildings, learn/teach farming, eat organic food and go to sleep at 22:00. The farm has also a kitchen and sells organic food.

River Swings. Playing on the very high swings over the river and sliding on a slide. Be careful. Perforated eardrums, broken ribs and permanent hearing damage are common injuries resulting from going the wrong way. Also foot injuries from hitting rocks, and sometimes death when going head first or falling off platforms when drunk. The local hospital is not equipped to diagnose or treat these serious injuries. Vientiane has the closest (if Spartan) EMT facility but no English speaking specialists, so you may have to travel to Udon Thani (Thailand) for treatment. All the rope swings and slides have now been removed for safely reasons.

Tubing. 12:00-14:00 is a reasonable time to go because earlier everyone else would be still asleep. Look at the magnificent view of the mountains rising directly beside the river. Many beer bars along the way, almost all in the first third of the trip. Some hire dry bags (hire for 15,000 kip or buy own nearby for 50,000 kip) may not be of the best quality, cameras can get ruined by faulty rented to tourists, so beware and if in doubt, don't bring your camera. Tubes have to be back by 18:00 or loose 20,000 kip from your deposit. In winter it gets a bit cold from 16:00, so start early to make the most of drinking your way down the river. Ride at least one rapid before starting the party to avoid disturbing guests visiting the Organic Farm (nice place for lunch before commencing tubing). Some Westerners have the job of promoting bars. The party scene has taken over and the owners use humongous loudspeakers, effectively blocking out any singing of birds. Beware of tubes getting stolen while stopping at bars, you may lose your deposit and the ride down. Tubes get stacked up at each bar so keep an eye on how many are left, especially at the first few bars where lots of people arrive without their own tube. If you're not used to drinking liquor, stick with beer and for reasons of safety and common sense consider avoiding alcohol completely if entering the water. The amount of alcohol in buckets can be seriously high and can kick in suddenly; you won't be the first one to be too drunk to make your way back on the river. As of 2016, only 2 bars remain open, and both are fairly close to the beginning of the tubing. Consequently, many people stop at the last bar and drink until night-time, then take a tuk-tuk back into town. During rainy season there is more water in the river and eye infections are common. 55,000 kip for the tube + 60,000 kip deposit.

Volunteering, Ban Phonpeng. Offers immersion and volunteer opportunities. FruitFriends is a social enterprise working with only local staff. Profits are used to organize community-based projects. FruitFriends has a small homestay and your help is much appreciated. 2 weeks, USD400; 4 weeks, USD600; 12 weeks, USD1,240.

Sae Lao Organic Garden & Restaurant. You can visit this organic garden and restaurant just before or after your visit to the Blue Lagoon. They also undertake eco projects to try and protect the natural environment in the Vang Vieng region, and you can volunteer.

Tham Nam Cave (The Water Cave). The main attraction is to go tubing into the cave. It is really huge, taking 15-30 minutes to get to the end, and then the same time to get back. There are two ropes inside the cave, be sure to follow both. Water is rather cold, but bearable. There is also a zipline at the cave entrance. 10,000 kip for tube and head torch, 10,000 kip to cross the bridge (although you can swim across the river), 3,000 kip for parking a motorbike or a bycicle.

The small shops scattered throughout Vang Vieng sell the standard assortment of snacks, trinkets, sunglasses and bathing suits. The majority of tourists seem to leave with at least one T-shirt, vest, or dress with "In the Tubing - Vang Vieng" emblazoned on it.

Prices for tourist packages are quoted in both kip and US dollars. Restaurants, hotels, and pretty much everything else is priced in kip. Most places will accept kip, Thai baht and US dollars for larger purchases.

There are several ATMs that now take all major credit cards, but are known for running out of cash. Some tourists have reported only being able to use cards on the Maestro (MasterCard) network.

The Lao Development Bank changes money at good rates and processes cash advances. BCEL will also do cash advances on credit cards.

  • BCEL bank. Biggest bank building in town. Therefore safe bet for ATM withdrawals, especially during bank opening hours. Also offer good rates for money exchange on 2nd floor.

BCEL bank. Biggest bank building in town. Therefore safe bet for ATM withdrawals, especially during bank opening hours. Also offer good rates for money exchange on 2nd floor.

The numerous TV restaurants are interchangeable and all have a similar theme. When it comes to Wi-Fi some offer it free, others sell access. Others offer access only at certain times only. They all have similar menus. A selection of Lao, American, Italian, Chinese and Thai food is normally fresh but often of indifferent quality and poorly executed. Small servings average 20,000-45,000 kip.

For quick eats and late night snacks, numerous pancake and sandwich stalls dot the streets. But be careful, food hygiene may have been compromised by being in the heat all day and your gastrointestinal system may react accordingly. The street running next to the river just to the west of the tube rental office has a few vendors selling large chicken and pork kebab skewers for 5,000 kip each.

Many restaurants used to offer "happy" shakes and pizzas, although this practice is slowly disappearing. While this may be obvious to many, any food or drink with the words "happy", "special" or "ecstatic" will contain an undetermined amount of marijuana or magic mushrooms. Therer may also be plain-clothes police men around in the city watching out for tourists smoking weed and giving them hefty fines.

  • Pan's Place Guesthouse, +856 23 511 484. 07:00-23:00. Western-style menu. All day English breakfast, spaghetti Bolognese, beef goulash, cottage pie, fresh fruit shakes, snacks and drinks. Helpful, friendly staff with Lao/Thai management and English reception.
  • Peeping Som's Restaurant. Korean and Lao (Sindaad) barbecue. Very popular.
  • DK3 - Milan Pizza. Pizza for 50,000 kip.
  • The Green Restaurant. 06:30 - 23:00. Large menu with western and lao food for decent price. Great for breakfast. Serving can be a bit slow when busy. Great view. Watch out for the crazy puppy. 15-50,000 kip (2017).
  • Gary's Irish Bar, +856 20 792 8266. Pub food with homemade pies and burgers for 40,000 kip.

Pan's Place Guesthouse, +856 23 511 484. 07:00-23:00. Western-style menu. All day English breakfast, spaghetti Bolognese, beef goulash, cottage pie, fresh fruit shakes, snacks and drinks. Helpful, friendly staff with Lao/Thai management and English reception.

Peeping Som's Restaurant. Korean and Lao (Sindaad) barbecue. Very popular.

DK3 - Milan Pizza. Pizza for 50,000 kip.

The Green Restaurant. 06:30 - 23:00. Large menu with western and lao food for decent price. Great for breakfast. Serving can be a bit slow when busy. Great view. Watch out for the crazy puppy. 15-50,000 kip (2017).

Gary's Irish Bar, +856 20 792 8266. Pub food with homemade pies and burgers for 40,000 kip.

Beerlao is available everywhere in Vang Vieng, but the drink of choice is a cheap plastic bucket filled with liquor and soft drinks. A bottle of Tiger Whisky costs the bar 10,000 kip, so around a third of a bottle goes into your bucket, normally with a choice of 7-Up or Pepsi, lime and Red Bull.

There are eight bars within the first kilometre of the tubing route. Alternately, four of them open daily, two on each side of the river.

  • Fluid Bar and Restaurant. Is filled with abstract art, strange sculptures and an eclectic mix of music. A break from the norm.

Fluid Bar and Restaurant. Is filled with abstract art, strange sculptures and an eclectic mix of music. A break from the norm.

Beerlao and buckets are available all around Vang Vieng in bars covered with Christmas lights (including all the "TV restaurants") and the buckets are usually very strong because Lao whisky is cheaper than soft drinks. There's no shortage of choice but a distinct lack of diversity, especially if you're looking for live music.

  • Sakura Bar, +856 20 78008555. Popular backpacker party bar jointly managed by a Lao-Filipino couple. The bar is famous for its 'drink triple, see double, act single' vests sported by backpackers across Southeast Asia which you can get for free for every purchase of two vodka drinks. It is the busiest nightspot in town with beer pongs, dance floor and happy hour promos every night.
  • Fat Monkey's. Popular backpacker party bar. Gets drunk and wild every night. Free beer pong, cheap drinks, very lively. Closes at midnight, as most bars in town.
  • Kiwi Sports Bar, +856 20 2877 9796. The cheapest beer in town. Play your own music. Free pool, dartboard, Internet, whisky shots and sports on a 60" LCD. Excellent variety of Italian and Lao food. Also has mountain bikes for rent.
  • Jaydee's Bar. Free pool, table football, dartboard and wifi. The beer is a bit more expensive than elsewhere around town (15,000 kip), but this is compensated by the great atmosphere and friendly service. Bartenders Macky and Jaydee have a couple of funny serving tricks. Lao-Lao shots are usually served for free with each purchase, and even without them. Closes at midnight.
  • Q-Bar. A "club" environment. Depending on the revolving staff of Westerners they play Dnb, dubstep and pop. Open for food all day, and closes between 24:00-01:00 depending on the numbers.
  • Gary's Irish Bar - The Rising Sun, +856 20 792 8266. The only Irish pub in Vang Vieng. Regular live music, 2 free pool tables and 3 TVs showing live sport. Cold beers and homemade pies. They play music extremely loudly at night; bring earplugs.

Sakura Bar, +856 20 78008555. Popular backpacker party bar jointly managed by a Lao-Filipino couple. The bar is famous for its 'drink triple, see double, act single' vests sported by backpackers across Southeast Asia which you can get for free for every purchase of two vodka drinks. It is the busiest nightspot in town with beer pongs, dance floor and happy hour promos every night.

Fat Monkey's. Popular backpacker party bar. Gets drunk and wild every night. Free beer pong, cheap drinks, very lively. Closes at midnight, as most bars in town.

Kiwi Sports Bar, +856 20 2877 9796. The cheapest beer in town. Play your own music. Free pool, dartboard, Internet, whisky shots and sports on a 60" LCD. Excellent variety of Italian and Lao food. Also has mountain bikes for rent.

Jaydee's Bar. Free pool, table football, dartboard and wifi. The beer is a bit more expensive than elsewhere around town (15,000 kip), but this is compensated by the great atmosphere and friendly service. Bartenders Macky and Jaydee have a couple of funny serving tricks. Lao-Lao shots are usually served for free with each purchase, and even without them. Closes at midnight.

Q-Bar. A "club" environment. Depending on the revolving staff of Westerners they play Dnb, dubstep and pop. Open for food all day, and closes between 24:00-01:00 depending on the numbers.

Gary's Irish Bar - The Rising Sun, +856 20 792 8266. The only Irish pub in Vang Vieng. Regular live music, 2 free pool tables and 3 TVs showing live sport. Cold beers and homemade pies. They play music extremely loudly at night; bring earplugs.

For serious drinking, the bars referred to collectively as The Island, reached via some ramshackle bamboo and wood bridges, are where most of the tubers end up after a day on the river, particularly after the bars in town start to close. The Sandwich Pancake pushers hover in a long line as people stumble over the bridge, waiting to prey on drunken Western tourists. But be aware of trying to buy eye drops for sudden onset conjunctivitis around this area. Stories abound of people being drunkenly extorted as much as 5x the normal price for treatment for their conjunctivitis

As of 2015, there are only two bars open on the former party island. One, River View Guest house, has a stretch of low wooden tables along the river next to the restaurant. Another bar has recently opened at the north end of the island, and is mainly a sunset place which closes early.

Thousands of tourists pass through Vang Vieng without incident every year, but the combination of outdoor activities, drink and drugs still makes it one of South East Asia's most dangerous destinations for travellers.

Even the town's main street can injure the unwary traveller: you'll need to watch out for the large holes in the pavement through to the drainage ditch below as they are not fenced off.

The medical care available in the town's hospital is rudimentary at best - for serious injuries you'll want to go to Vientiane, or better still, Thailand.

Floating downstream at a sedate pace in an inflated rubber tube shouldn't be a dangerous activity, provided you leave enough time to get back before darkness falls.

What raises the danger level is the bars offering a combination of hard liquor and high platforms to jump from.

Whilst you may find that risk reduced somewhat by the dismantling of some of Vang Vieng's infamous ziplines, swings and slides following recent deaths, you're still going to have use your common sense. If you want to jump into the river, be very careful about where you do so - the Nam Song isn't very deep except where the bar staff have cleared rocks from the river bed. Don't even think of pushing others in: at least one person has died that way.

Needless to say, if the alcohol or drugs you've consumed may impair your ability to swim or climb out, don't enter the water, even on a rubber tube. Remember whisky buckets can be deceptively strong and their effects can kick in very quickly.

The river current is strong in many places - even the stone-cold sober should avoid sapping their strength by swimming against it. It should be easy enough to swim across to shallower water instead.

Historically accepted drugs, such as marijuana, mushrooms and opium are freely available in many bars and restaurants around town. The majority of bars have "magic menus" offering most of these drugs. Consuming them on the premises is fairly safe, although drugs are illegal in Laos and nothing is totally safe.

Yaa-​baa (ยาบ้า), the Thai/Lao name for a narcotic made of methamphetamine and caffeine, is available in both pill and smokeable forms. It was formerly legal in Thailand as a way for long-haul truckers to stay awake. Yaa-baa is highly addictive. Manufactured locally, the drug can be cut with any number of substances.

Aside from the drugs already mentioned it is inadvisable to attempt to purchase any other substances not freely available on the magic menus around town. The dangers of most drugs should be well-known to travellers, and additionally there is also a police presence. Plain-clothed policemen frequently take unsuspecting tourists to the local police station for smoking a joint. The usual outcome of this involves having your passport seized until you cough up a hefty "fine", typically between 3-5 million kip. Once the fine is paid, however, the matter is generally taken no further and the passport returned. But the punishment will depend on the officer you are dealing with. Several local policemen are best friends and drinking buddies with restaurateurs who sell opium, mushrooms, cannabis and yaa-baa. Customers are not harassed at these establishments. The police wait until they leave. Some of these same cops own guesthouses near the island. Never surrender your passport if you can help it, and often the best way out of the situation is simply to pay.

A minor annoyance around Vang Vieng (referred to by locals and long-time residents as the "Vang Vieng plague") is conjunctivitis, or pink eye. This is a viral, and sometimes bacterial, infection which can be caught from the river or other tubers. The onset of conjunctivitis is often felt as an unnatural tiredness, and inability to properly fully open your eyes. If you sense this, or have been sharing buckets with people with conjunctivitis or wearing sunglasses at night, the best thing to do is shell out for eye drops as soon as possible to prevent the onset. If this should happen late at night, be aware that eye drops alone should cost a maximum of 20,000 kip. Some of the late night pharmacies attempt to extort tourists, charging up to 5 times the normal price for eye drops.

As well as eye drops, general antibiotics are available from any pharmacy. In some cases eye drops will cause an intense stinging sensation, this can be soothed with an eye bath formula also available at pharmacies. Of course the sensible solution would be to rest your eyes and ease the drinking, but Vang Vieng's non-stop party atmosphere makes this a hard option for most. Should your conjunctivitis last longer than a week you should probably seek proper medical advice, and stop drinking all that Tiger Whisky to give your body time to heal.

When tubing home late and its getting cold and dark, there are taxi boats who offer to take you home for a price of around 10,000 kip each. These boats will just take you to some place and stop there, refusing to continue. They tie up the boat, take away the engine and go away, waiting for you to get out and grab a waiting tuk tuk for a high price back home, because they know that you are freezing and want to take back your tube. If you don't want to pay the tuk-tuk, the only way to get home is to walk.

It's common for places offering laundry service (priced per kg) to 'rig' their weighing scales so that your bag of dirty clothes suddenly weighs (and costs) twice as much or more!

Internet speed and reliability is variable but not bad by Laos standards. There are a few Internet cafes around town. Most guesthouses and restaurants now offer free Wi-Fi for their customers.

  • Babylon Bar, has the fastest free Wi-Fi
  • Pan's place, has qood quality Internet
  • Sakura, has qood quality Wi-Fi (20,000 kip minimum spend)

Babylon Bar, has the fastest free Wi-Fi

Pan's place, has qood quality Internet

Sakura, has qood quality Wi-Fi (20,000 kip minimum spend)

  • Luang Prabang and Vientiane are normally the next stop, depending on the direction you're heading.
  • Rent out a motorbike and venture into Xaisomboun Province
  • The adventurous can make their way Vientiane down the river by kayak. The trip should leave in the early morning, placing you in the capital by 18:00. For your belongings, dry bags are available or you can opt to place them in the accompanying van which will take them along and carry you at least part of the way. Expect to pay 170,000-220,000 kip
  • You can book trips all the way to Bangkok (via Vientiane) but since you'll change mode of transport (there are excellent sleeper trains running from the Thai border town of Nong Khai) at least once anyway it's just as easy to arrange this trip at your own pace.
  • Travel agents will be willing to book you to anywhere in Thailand, but expect some very long bus journeys and probably several bus changes.
  • Buses to Vietnam are notorious for taking even longer than expected and being a really unpleasant experience.