Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang, or Louangphrabang (Lao: ຫຼວງພຣະບາງ) is the former capital of Laos and a UNESCO World Heritage city.

Set at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the town, and beneath a temple-topped hill, Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture, reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochine. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wrap-around teak balconies and 19th-century shuttered windows. All of this is set against a backdrop of verdant greenery and rugged mountains.

Luang Prabang is a relatively small city with an atmospheric and charming personality. With UNESCO so closely involved and a largely responsible group of local business owners, the pressures of mass tourism have been held at bay, but for how much longer remains to be seen. Restaurants in the main street cater for luxury tourists. More typical Lao venues can still be found along the Mekong.

Luang Prabang rose to prominence as the capital of the first Lao kingdom (Lan Xang, land of the million elephants) from 1353. The city owes its present name to the Pha Bang, a revered Buddha image (now in the Royal Palace Museum) which was brought to the city by King Visoun during the golden age of Lan Xang in the early 1500s.

The fragmentation of the Lao kingdom at the end of the 16th century left Luang Prabang a militarily weak independent city state paying tribute to surrounding kingdoms. The 1887 sacking of the city by the Chinese Haw led the Luang Prabang monarchy to accept the protection of the French, whose influence led to the construction of the many fine colonial villas that sit harmoniously alongside traditional Lao architecture.

The city fell into decline in the latter half of the 20th century following the reluctant withdrawal of the French, and the 1975 revolution which brought an end to the Luang Prabang monarchy. The relative poverty of newly-independent Laos perhaps helped save Luang Prabang from the ravages of 20th-century city planning.

The reopening of Laos to tourism in 1989 resulted in a remarkable turnaround in the city's fortunes, as crumbling timber houses and colonial mansions were sensitively restored and transformed into immaculate guesthouses and boutique hotels. In 1995 the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

• Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre. An informative free tour to all visitors. Operating as a fair trade traditional weaving centre, you can take classes in bamboo/textile weaving, dye your own silk, draw your own batik or just relax at the Mekong garden cafe. A free tuk-tuk departs daily from the Ock Pop Tok shop in the city at 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00, with other times possible by agreement.
• Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre. This small, but perfectly formed museum is dedicated to the ethnic cultures of Laos. Find out more about the groups that make Laos unique and enrich your visit to Luang Prabang. Closed on Mondays, and occasionally other times for exhibitions. Sept 2016- 25,000 kip per person. On site shop and cafe, with an outlet shop close to the Ock Pop Tok shop.

Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre. An informative free tour to all visitors. Operating as a fair trade traditional weaving centre, you can take classes in bamboo/textile weaving, dye your own silk, draw your own batik or just relax at the Mekong garden cafe. A free tuk-tuk departs daily from the Ock Pop Tok shop in the city at 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00, with other times possible by agreement.

Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre. This small, but perfectly formed museum is dedicated to the ethnic cultures of Laos. Find out more about the groups that make Laos unique and enrich your visit to Luang Prabang. Closed on Mondays, and occasionally other times for exhibitions. Sept 2016- 25,000 kip per person. On site shop and cafe, with an outlet shop close to the Ock Pop Tok shop.

• Alms Ceremony, Sisavangvong Rd. Monks at dawn collect alms of rice from kneeling villagers (and early-rising tourists). Ask your guesthouse host to assist you the day before in preparing if you'd like to get up and give alms in the morning. The alms giving ceremony is one which, while picturesque, is not without its detractors. Unscrupulous local merchants have used the eagerness of tourists to participate in this tradition as a means of making easy money. They sometimes sell unsuitable, stale and even unsafe food, resulting in monks falling ill after having consumed the offerings, Hence the growing resistance to continuing the tradition. The government, however, has made it clear that the monks must continue the custom or be replaced by lay persons clothed in saffron robes in order to keep up appearances, thereby maintaining tourist revenue. If you wish to participate in this ceremony, prepare the food or fruit yourself. Avoid giving food of dodgy quality. Another problem is the rampant photography: while a photo might look nice in your collection, think about how it must feel for the monks to have hundreds of tourists photographing them every day. Some lowlifes even stand next to the monks, blinding them with flashbulbs. Consider watching this old tradition from a distance instead of degrading it.
• Haw Kham. W-M 08:00-11:30 and 13:30-16:00. The former royal palace, now a national museum. It is not a national history museum however. You pass through the state rooms and the private rooms of the royal family and can see the collection of official cars. No photos, videos, bags, or shoes allowed, free locker provided. Sometimes there is a play or dance performances in the adjacent theatre. In Aug 2011 for example, every M W F Sa, there was a performance at 18:30 of Search of Princess Sida, a royal ballet, with prices from 80,000 to 150,000 kip. Check the schedule and plan your visit accordingly. ~80,000 kip.
• Phou Si. The hill that dominates the city from which you have a good view of the whole area. It's not a very steep climb from the bottom. Sunrise and sunset are the most sensible and rewarding times to go. There is a near-panoramic view from the top. The ticket office closes at 18:30, so climbing to the top is virtually free afterwards, which gives you about 30 minutes before it gets dark. This is not the place to go however if you are looking for a romantic sunset with not so many other people around. In this case go to a remote section of the shoreline or book a sunset tour on a small boat. Entrance fee 20,000 kip.
• Vat Xieng Toung. 06:00-18:00. The oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful. One entrance is on the road along the Mekong, another on the by-lane off the main road. 20,000 kip.
• Vipassana Temple and Park. This golden temple, highly visible from Phou Si, is a shrine for Buddhists who practice Vipassana meditation.

Alms Ceremony, Sisavangvong Rd. Monks at dawn collect alms of rice from kneeling villagers (and early-rising tourists). Ask your guesthouse host to assist you the day before in preparing if you'd like to get up and give alms in the morning. The alms giving ceremony is one which, while picturesque, is not without its detractors. Unscrupulous local merchants have used the eagerness of tourists to participate in this tradition as a means of making easy money. They sometimes sell unsuitable, stale and even unsafe food, resulting in monks falling ill after having consumed the offerings, Hence the growing resistance to continuing the tradition. The government, however, has made it clear that the monks must continue the custom or be replaced by lay persons clothed in saffron robes in order to keep up appearances, thereby maintaining tourist revenue. If you wish to participate in this ceremony, prepare the food or fruit yourself. Avoid giving food of dodgy quality. Another problem is the rampant photography: while a photo might look nice in your collection, think about how it must feel for the monks to have hundreds of tourists photographing them every day. Some lowlifes even stand next to the monks, blinding them with flashbulbs. Consider watching this old tradition from a distance instead of degrading it.

Haw Kham. W-M 08:00-11:30 and 13:30-16:00. The former royal palace, now a national museum. It is not a national history museum however. You pass through the state rooms and the private rooms of the royal family and can see the collection of official cars. No photos, videos, bags, or shoes allowed, free locker provided. Sometimes there is a play or dance performances in the adjacent theatre. In Aug 2011 for example, every M W F Sa, there was a performance at 18:30 of Search of Princess Sida, a royal ballet, with prices from 80,000 to 150,000 kip. Check the schedule and plan your visit accordingly. ~80,000 kip.

Phou Si. The hill that dominates the city from which you have a good view of the whole area. It's not a very steep climb from the bottom. Sunrise and sunset are the most sensible and rewarding times to go. There is a near-panoramic view from the top. The ticket office closes at 18:30, so climbing to the top is virtually free afterwards, which gives you about 30 minutes before it gets dark. This is not the place to go however if you are looking for a romantic sunset with not so many other people around. In this case go to a remote section of the shoreline or book a sunset tour on a small boat. Entrance fee 20,000 kip.

Vat Xieng Toung. 06:00-18:00. The oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful. One entrance is on the road along the Mekong, another on the by-lane off the main road. 20,000 kip.

Vipassana Temple and Park. This golden temple, highly visible from Phou Si, is a shrine for Buddhists who practice Vipassana meditation.

While the tuktuk price for out of city sights is steep for couples or singles, keep asking. Some drivers might have been asked by others and will try to build a group.

• Bear Rescue Centre. Operated by the Free the bears charity with various enclosure for endangered Asiatic black bears, both Moon and Sun bears, that have been rescued from poachers. Small gift shop. No entrance free but donations welcomed..
• Kuang Si Falls. 08:00-17:30. A large multi-tiered waterfall, accessible by boat or truck hire. You can also rent a motorbike to transport yourself there. There are food and tourist stalls outside the waterfalls. It is worth putting a whole day aside (or more) for seeing these because they are a great place to relax and meet other travellers. There are multiple pools at different levels, all of which are reportedly safe to bathe in, and are extremely picturesque. Shared tuk-tuks charge about 30,000-50,000 kip (cheapest seems to be near slow boat pier, though you can get them for 40,000 kip near Joma Bakery). You may have to wait until the tuk-tuk fills up. Tuk-tuks are legally only allowed to take six people, and there is a checkpoint at the falls, so some drivers may try to get a 7th person in the front seat. Private tuk-tuk will cost you at least 150,000 kip, but you will need to bargain for some time; don't hesitate to start from 100,000 kip if the driver tells you 150,000 kip. Drivers may try to show you documents that quote 200,000 kip or more depending on driver. Just ignore this and insist. Try to go with 5 people and insist on 30,000 kip each. The driver should wait for 3-4 hours at the waterfall gate area. Make sure your 150,000 kip includes there and back. Bargain, bargain, bargain. Just remember that there are dozens of tuk-tuks around, so you have the advantage. If you lack companions, offer 30,000 kip and wait until he finds more passengers. A seat in a minibus costs 40,000 kip, more if booked through a travel agent. 20,000 kip.

• Pak Ou Caves. The famous "Buddha caves" are north of the city on the Mekong and can be reached by road (approximately 1 hr) or river boat (around 1.5 hr). Alternatively, you can hire canoes and a guide for the day, which would allow you to view the beautiful scenery and visit the caves without throngs of other tourists. It's also possible to finish the trip at the "whisky village" where the local Lao lao (rice spirit) is made. There are two caves, one on the entry level and another, the upper caves, on top of the hill. A very steep climb, but worth the effort. A torch is needed to see the upper cave. Simply cross the river at Pak Ou village for 13,000 kip per person (25,000 kip if you're the only one on the boat), walk up the hill and turn right, crossing the school grounds, to find your way to the caves. Motorcycle parking at Pak Ou village 5,000 kip. 20,000 kip.
• Tad Sae Waterfalls. Tiered waterfalls which are not as big as Kuang Xi, but very beautiful. You can bathe there and elephant rides are available. 15,000 kip.

Bear Rescue Centre. Operated by the Free the bears charity with various enclosure for endangered Asiatic black bears, both Moon and Sun bears, that have been rescued from poachers. Small gift shop. No entrance free but donations welcomed..

Kuang Si Falls. 08:00-17:30. A large multi-tiered waterfall, accessible by boat or truck hire. You can also rent a motorbike to transport yourself there. There are food and tourist stalls outside the waterfalls. It is worth putting a whole day aside (or more) for seeing these because they are a great place to relax and meet other travellers. There are multiple pools at different levels, all of which are reportedly safe to bathe in, and are extremely picturesque. Shared tuk-tuks charge about 30,000-50,000 kip (cheapest seems to be near slow boat pier, though you can get them for 40,000 kip near Joma Bakery). You may have to wait until the tuk-tuk fills up. Tuk-tuks are legally only allowed to take six people, and there is a checkpoint at the falls, so some drivers may try to get a 7th person in the front seat. Private tuk-tuk will cost you at least 150,000 kip, but you will need to bargain for some time; don't hesitate to start from 100,000 kip if the driver tells you 150,000 kip. Drivers may try to show you documents that quote 200,000 kip or more depending on driver. Just ignore this and insist. Try to go with 5 people and insist on 30,000 kip each. The driver should wait for 3-4 hours at the waterfall gate area. Make sure your 150,000 kip includes there and back. Bargain, bargain, bargain. Just remember that there are dozens of tuk-tuks around, so you have the advantage. If you lack companions, offer 30,000 kip and wait until he finds more passengers. A seat in a minibus costs 40,000 kip, more if booked through a travel agent. 20,000 kip.

Pak Ou Caves. The famous "Buddha caves" are north of the city on the Mekong and can be reached by road (approximately 1 hr) or river boat (around 1.5 hr). Alternatively, you can hire canoes and a guide for the day, which would allow you to view the beautiful scenery and visit the caves without throngs of other tourists. It's also possible to finish the trip at the "whisky village" where the local Lao lao (rice spirit) is made. There are two caves, one on the entry level and another, the upper caves, on top of the hill. A very steep climb, but worth the effort. A torch is needed to see the upper cave. Simply cross the river at Pak Ou village for 13,000 kip per person (25,000 kip if you're the only one on the boat), walk up the hill and turn right, crossing the school grounds, to find your way to the caves. Motorcycle parking at Pak Ou village 5,000 kip. 20,000 kip.

Tad Sae Waterfalls. Tiered waterfalls which are not as big as Kuang Xi, but very beautiful. You can bathe there and elephant rides are available. 15,000 kip.

• Big Brother Mouse. M-Sa 09:00-11:00. A worthwhile organisation devoted to encouraging literacy in young adults. Depending on sponsorship and volunteers, it welcomes tourists to help with English conversation and reading practice. They publish and distribute books in Lao and English. Consider buying some books to take as gifts to village children if you travel through Laos. They have another branch in Vientiane.
• Fair Trek Project. People who love activities and treks may find some interesting interactive tours which are designed to support villages outside of Luang Prabang in the north of Laos.
• Hike or bike acorss the river in Chompet. Hike or bicycle alongside the river through a few small Hmong villages and past a few temples (10,000 kip admission) and a cave. Beware the children at the temples with the ticket-takers, especially at the temple with the white stairs leading to the water opposite Luang Prabang. They will swarm over tourists' backpacks, and money will later be found missing. Enquiries to police and village officials will not be fruitful. Island map
• Lao Red Cross Sauna, Wisunarat Rd (In front of Wat Wisunalat. 09:00-21:00. A traditional Lao sauna and massage, very popular with locals in the afternoon. 1-hour massage 40,000 kip; sauna 10,000 kip.
• Lenou's Library, Sisavangvong Road, +856 71 254 813. A great way to experience Lao village life without a tour bus. The owner started a library and children's English tutoring centre in his house a few years ago and since has been steadily expanding services with help from volunteers. Lenou sometimes organises dinners on the Num Ou river by request and generally seems to appreciate a helping hand.
• Rent a motorbike. Although prices are high by Southeast Asian standards, riding around the surrounding areas of Luang Prabang is a fantastic way to see the countryside. Fuel for the whole day will cost around 15,000 kip. Normal practice is the rental company retains your passport, so make sure they know when you leave and how to recover your passport. Choose the rental agency carefully, keep the motorcycle safe and take your own lock. Some rental agencies, particularly Khamsay, have been widely accused of stealing bikes after they rent them out to tourists, then demanding USD2,500 compensation from the tourist. Research bike rentals thoroughly before choosing one. USD20-25 per day.
• Backstreet Academy, +856 20 58199216. 09:00-18:00. An alternative tour experiences platform, they enable locals to offer authentic and unique activities to tourists such as silk weaving, wood carving workshops, paper stenciling, traditional music instruments and courses to make a knife or crossbow with local craftsmen. A social enterprise, they work with many underprivileged people who either serve as hosts or facilitators. The facilitators will pick you up from your hotel and translate for you. These facilitators are usually young students looking for work to pay for their education. Transport is provided for most activities in Luang Prabang. USD12-20.
• Elephant Village Sanctuary & Resort, Sisavangvong Road (on the main road right next to the Royal Palace (there is a big elephant statue outside the office), +856 71 252 417. 09:00 - 22:00. It has 14 elephants. They are kept away from abusive work and cared by veterinarians, and seem well looked after and relaxed. Offers basic elephant rides, or 1 or 2 day mahout course where you learn the commands to control the elephant. You also get to wash the elephants in the Namkhan River which is a lot of fun.
• Nava Mekong Cruises, +856 20 5928 5555. 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00. 2 cruises on the Mekong with full meals featuring Lao delicacies. Pak Ou Cave cruise goes upstream & includes a visit to the "1000 Buddhas cave" (entrance fee included) and a whisky village, where passengers are given enough time to visit. Sunset cruise goes downstream & includes a traditional music and dance show. The company strives to be socially responsible & make sure to hire locals from the villages around Luang Prabang, making the experience more authentic & positive for everybody. USD25-30.

Big Brother Mouse. M-Sa 09:00-11:00. A worthwhile organisation devoted to encouraging literacy in young adults. Depending on sponsorship and volunteers, it welcomes tourists to help with English conversation and reading practice. They publish and distribute books in Lao and English. Consider buying some books to take as gifts to village children if you travel through Laos. They have another branch in Vientiane.

Fair Trek Project. People who love activities and treks may find some interesting interactive tours which are designed to support villages outside of Luang Prabang in the north of Laos.

Hike or bike acorss the river in Chompet. Hike or bicycle alongside the river through a few small Hmong villages and past a few temples (10,000 kip admission) and a cave. Beware the children at the temples with the ticket-takers, especially at the temple with the white stairs leading to the water opposite Luang Prabang. They will swarm over tourists' backpacks, and money will later be found missing. Enquiries to police and village officials will not be fruitful. Island map

Lao Red Cross Sauna, Wisunarat Rd (In front of Wat Wisunalat. 09:00-21:00. A traditional Lao sauna and massage, very popular with locals in the afternoon. 1-hour massage 40,000 kip; sauna 10,000 kip.

Lenou's Library, Sisavangvong Road, +856 71 254 813. A great way to experience Lao village life without a tour bus. The owner started a library and children's English tutoring centre in his house a few years ago and since has been steadily expanding services with help from volunteers. Lenou sometimes organises dinners on the Num Ou river by request and generally seems to appreciate a helping hand.

Rent a motorbike. Although prices are high by Southeast Asian standards, riding around the surrounding areas of Luang Prabang is a fantastic way to see the countryside. Fuel for the whole day will cost around 15,000 kip. Normal practice is the rental company retains your passport, so make sure they know when you leave and how to recover your passport. Choose the rental agency carefully, keep the motorcycle safe and take your own lock. Some rental agencies, particularly Khamsay, have been widely accused of stealing bikes after they rent them out to tourists, then demanding USD2,500 compensation from the tourist. Research bike rentals thoroughly before choosing one. USD20-25 per day.

Backstreet Academy, +856 20 58199216. 09:00-18:00. An alternative tour experiences platform, they enable locals to offer authentic and unique activities to tourists such as silk weaving, wood carving workshops, paper stenciling, traditional music instruments and courses to make a knife or crossbow with local craftsmen. A social enterprise, they work with many underprivileged people who either serve as hosts or facilitators. The facilitators will pick you up from your hotel and translate for you. These facilitators are usually young students looking for work to pay for their education. Transport is provided for most activities in Luang Prabang. USD12-20.

Elephant Village Sanctuary & Resort, Sisavangvong Road (on the main road right next to the Royal Palace (there is a big elephant statue outside the office), +856 71 252 417. 09:00 - 22:00. It has 14 elephants. They are kept away from abusive work and cared by veterinarians, and seem well looked after and relaxed. Offers basic elephant rides, or 1 or 2 day mahout course where you learn the commands to control the elephant. You also get to wash the elephants in the Namkhan River which is a lot of fun.

Nava Mekong Cruises, +856 20 5928 5555. 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00. 2 cruises on the Mekong with full meals featuring Lao delicacies. Pak Ou Cave cruise goes upstream & includes a visit to the "1000 Buddhas cave" (entrance fee included) and a whisky village, where passengers are given enough time to visit. Sunset cruise goes downstream & includes a traditional music and dance show. The company strives to be socially responsible & make sure to hire locals from the villages around Luang Prabang, making the experience more authentic & positive for everybody. USD25-30.

Thai baht and USD are widely accepted but the exchange rates vary. There are some ATMs that accept Visa, MasterCard, Maestro and Eurocards. These ATMs are mostly on Sisavangvong Rd near the end of the Night Market. The ATMs dispense currency in Lao kip, and generally allow a maximum withdrawal of 1,000,000 kip with a charge of 20,000 kip. Banque Franco-Lao allows a maximum withdrawal of 2,000,000 kip with a charge of 40,000 kip. Multiple withdrawals are allowed to a daily maximum of 5,000,000 kip. If you arrive by plane, there is an ATM and a money changer at the airport which is only open for a few hours of the day. Also, their rates are significantly worse than the banks in town.

Money changers/exchange For Malaysians, it is best to change money to baht, where the rate is RM10=100 baht or more, then change the baht to kip in Laos. This is because they give not so good rates in Laos for Malaysian ringgit.

There are a number of money changers who generally do not offer good rates, and are either on Sisavangvong Rd or in the permanent markets further east. One is next to the ATM near the Night Markets, another is about 50 m further north along the street, in front of one of the first restaurants (looks like a little tollbooth/shack). The rates offered may vary, so shop around before you change. Better maybe to use official money changing services at a bank which are easily found. There are reports of scam by using money changers to take cash advance. They will charge you more in USD with a different exchange rate than posted. Even after complaining it's not possible to cancel the transaction.

The Night Market (on Sisavangvong Road) caters to tourists with every kind of souvenir you could want and closes at about 22:00. Particularly good are the duvet covers, cushion covers, and pillow sets. They can even make one up to your dimensions by the next day. It is well worth a look and the hawkers are very pleasant to deal with and amazingly non-pushy by the standard elsewhere in Asia. Traders range from young children to the elderly who usually make crafts, art, and goods by themselves. Good-natured bargaining is advisable, but don't obsess over this and ruin your experience as well as giving the trader a bad day. The quality and design of goods is lower in the market than in the legions of increasingly chic stores in the city. There may be some souvenirs available made from endangered animals. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures (starfish, etc.), fur, feathers, teeth and other animal products. This is the best place to buy lower end souvenirs and hone your bargaining skills.

Laotian aesthetic sense is quite evolved. For instance check out some of the higher end stores:

• Ock Pop Tok, 73/5 Ban Vat Nong, with a shop in the city, +856 71 253219. An ethical trading company with superb galleries. Also run classes and visits to village weaving facilities.

Several book stores that sell photocopies to unsuspecting travellers operate in the area. It's worth checking copies as pages can be unreadable or even missing.

• Tamnak Lao Restaurant Book Exchange. A very good selection of books. The exchange operates on a "one for one" basis plus 20,000 kip, and all books are also available for purchase. All of the money raised by the book exchange goes to buying provisions for the Luang Prabang Government Orphanages and Ethnic High Schools.

During lunch break or siesta time, which starts 12:00 to 13:30, the dry summer sun can be scorching. To spend time comfortably while waiting for the sun to mellow at around 15:30, hang around at the public library across from the National Museum about 4 or 5 buildings down from the US-sponsored reading room. There are old English language newspapers still in circulation. Or better still, surf the net for free from the six Internet stations.

Tamnak Lao Restaurant Book Exchange. A very good selection of books. The exchange operates on a "one for one" basis plus 20,000 kip, and all books are also available for purchase. All of the money raised by the book exchange goes to buying provisions for the Luang Prabang Government Orphanages and Ethnic High Schools.

Ock Pop Tok, 73/5 Ban Vat Nong, with a shop in the city, +856 71 253219. An ethical trading company with superb galleries. Also run classes and visits to village weaving facilities.

There are no multi-national fast food outlets in Luang Prabang or Laos, for that matter. Restaurants line Sisavangvong Rd and the roads along the Mekong and Nam Khan. Food runs the gamut from standard SE Asian backpacker fare to more traditional Lao dishes, including buffalo sausage right up to very high quality French cuisine. There are also numerous market stalls for cheaper food, including baguettes, crepes, and pancakes.

Stalls along an alleyway between the night market end of Sisavangvong Rd and the Mekong offers superb Lao street food at bargain prices. Grilled salted catfish is available for 15,000 kip per fish, other types of fish for 20,000. For a somewhat spicy salad for about 10,000 kip, look for vendors with containers filled with cucumber, lime, tomato and sliced green papaya, where they will mix it on the spot with mortar and pestle. If you order BBQ meat from one of the vendors opposite the tables, they will heat it up for you over the charcoal, and you can grab a seat at one of the tables to eat. The tables are quite crowded; it is easier to get a seat later in the evening, after 20:30 or so. The entry to the alley is by the vegan restaurant near the food stall end of the night market, near the traffic circle where the tuk-tuk touts hang out.

Typical prices for Beerlao is 12,000 kip for a large bottle and 8,000 kip for a small, which generally are standard throughout the country. Most riverside places offer the same prices for beer and similar food, although prices for food can vary wildly. Shop around and don't be shy about asking prices if anything is unclear.

Probably the most recommended food is the Lao version of fried spring roll, vegetable at 3,000 kip or pork at 5,000 kip per piece.

Be careful of buying the bundles of dried seafood snack if you have the knack for it, the texture is like chewing salty paper.

Local specialities include:

• French baguettes and other bakery items. Generally very good.
• Local watercress which is very peppery.
• Fried dried seaweed with sesame seeds dipped in a chili sauce.
• Buffalo steaks and sausages.
• Luang Prabang Khao Soi: spicy clear mince and noodle soup which is very different from the Chiang Mai version

• Bamboo Restaurant. 08:00-23:00. Cheap Lao food. Popular spot for the expats and GVI volunteers. 15-30,000 kip.
• Le Banneton. Amazing, authentic French bread, tarts, pastries and cakes. Their pain au chocolat are buttery and delicious. Go in the morning as they often run out in the afternoon.
• Big Tree Cafe. Consistently good Western and Korean food. Under the big tree on the Mekong River. Good service and free Wi-Fi.
• Blue Lagoon Restaurant, +856 71 253698. Offers Luang Prabang-Lao dishes and Swiss classics as well as a variety of snacks and fresh salads.
• Boulevard Restaurant. Al fresco restaurant at the New Daraphet Villa. For those wishing a quiet meal be warned the owner has recently brought in sound equipment and a new acoustic guitar for music enthusiasts to jam. The restaurant has 2 sides for both proper dining and casual drinking. Serves decent draught Tiger beer and a great atmosphere for meeting new friends from the guesthouses along the street.
• Eisgarten German Cafe. Owned by a German couple, the cafe is a nondescript house with a tiny sign board. It is easy to miss but do look out for it. The homemade ice cream is absolutely divine at 10,000 kip per scoop. The apple cinnamon and coconut flavours are stand outs. Customers dine al fresco in their yard so bring adequate protection from mosquitoes, particularly in the evenings.
• Khao Soi Street Stall. Luang Prabang Khao Soi street food. Opens around 17:00. Southwest end of night market. 35,000 kip.
• L'Elephant. A lovely restaurant with a mix of Lao and French foods. The food is extremely good, but has its price. Ingredients are of the highest quality, ranging from French Camembert to Laotian lemongrass and river weeds. The menu is both pricey and some items do not justify the price tag. Great ambience.
• La Silapa Italian & Lao Restaurant, Phommathat Road (in front of Wat Aham (near Wat Visoun). 17:00-23:30. Italian or local food. Particularly good are the Parmesan aubergine, pork lasagna, fresh pasta with mushroom and truffles, and the tiramisú. Big garden (with a Fiat), big room with air-con and nice terrace on the street with free Wi-Fi. Happy hour with Aperol Spritz and wine for 50,000 kip, and buy one get one free.
• Hmong Night Market. 17:00-22:00. One food stall says vegetarian and the other "végétalien" (vegan). Approximately 5,000 kip for a plate. Popular with budget travellers, but not an option for those looking for tasty food. Cash only. Eat at your own risk as hygiene is questionable.
• The House, Kingkitsarath Road 10 (at the Nam Khan riverside of Mount Phousie, a few min away from main street and night market, +856 71 255021. The only Belgian restaurant/bar in Luang Prabang. Excellent price/quality food. It has an appealing range of Belgian beer, cocktails and wine. Known for its lasagna, stews and curries. Recommended for vegetarians. A green bamboo garden with fairy lights confers a pleasant ambience. Attentive staff.
• Indochina Spirit. Excellent Lao and Thai food. Great value. Everything is tasty, but try the minced fish and aubergines. Has old, stuffy, and a not so pleasant odor at the interior tables.
• Joma Bakery Cafe, +856 71 252292. 07:00-21:00. Free Wi-Fi, air-con on both floors and free full-menu delivery service from 07:00-19:30. Great music and friendly staff. 8,000-43,000 kip.
• Lao Lao Garden. Attractively designed bar/restaurant notable for its Lao-style barbecue. You cook meat on a barbecue mounted in the centre of the table. A backpacker favourite and busy in the evenings with loud club music. If you prefer to cook your barbecue in an atmosphere of quiet contemplation there are other BBQ options along the riverside.
• Nisha Restaurant. 09:00-22:00. Popular Indian/Tamil food. Great vegetarian/vegan options but serves (halal) meat as well. 20-50,000 kip.
• Un Petit Nid-Biblio Bistro. Very relaxing bistro serving excellent Lao and Western food in a nice atmosphere. Try the orlam with spicy wood. Good vegetarian menu.
• Rosella Fusion Restaurant. Clean and well-cooked food. A small place (blink, and you'll miss it) that looks like a fruit shake place. Locally owned by Lao man who trained at Amantaka Restaurant. Possibly the best steaks in town, certainly great cocktails. Slow service, but worth it.
• Saffron Caffè. Excellent coffee. It comes from the surrounding mountains. The banana shake macchiato is recommended. Delicious fresh baked goods such as their cinnamon swirls and banana muffins go quickly. Granola and salad wraps are good.
• Sala Café. Nice place with a view of the Nam Khan River. This restaurant-bar is an open air terrace where you can relax while trying homemade Vietnamese, French, and Lao specialities. Some think it expensive, but quality has its price.
• Scandinavian Bakery. Good Western breakfasts and burgers. Food must be paid for before eating.
• Shakes & Crepes. A no-name place serving delicious shakes for 5,000 kip and fantastic sweet crepes starting at 7,000 kip.
• Tamarind. Specialises in introducing Western tourists to Lao food, so the dishes are offered with explanations and the menu is full of information. Traditional Lao food in sampler format. Platter combinations of dips, salads, etc., as well as set menus. Only a small wine list, but good range of fruit drinks. Popular cooking classes in a garden setting. Sells food products, recipe books.
• Viewpoint Café and Restaurant, Mekong Riverside Rd, Xieng Thong Village (Next to Mekong Riverview Hotel, +856 71 254900. 07:00-23:00. High quality Lao and Western food.

Bamboo Restaurant. 08:00-23:00. Cheap Lao food. Popular spot for the expats and GVI volunteers. 15-30,000 kip.

Le Banneton. Amazing, authentic French bread, tarts, pastries and cakes. Their pain au chocolat are buttery and delicious. Go in the morning as they often run out in the afternoon.

Big Tree Cafe. Consistently good Western and Korean food. Under the big tree on the Mekong River. Good service and free Wi-Fi.

Blue Lagoon Restaurant, +856 71 253698. Offers Luang Prabang-Lao dishes and Swiss classics as well as a variety of snacks and fresh salads.

Boulevard Restaurant. Al fresco restaurant at the New Daraphet Villa. For those wishing a quiet meal be warned the owner has recently brought in sound equipment and a new acoustic guitar for music enthusiasts to jam. The restaurant has 2 sides for both proper dining and casual drinking. Serves decent draught Tiger beer and a great atmosphere for meeting new friends from the guesthouses along the street.

Eisgarten German Cafe. Owned by a German couple, the cafe is a nondescript house with a tiny sign board. It is easy to miss but do look out for it. The homemade ice cream is absolutely divine at 10,000 kip per scoop. The apple cinnamon and coconut flavours are stand outs. Customers dine al fresco in their yard so bring adequate protection from mosquitoes, particularly in the evenings.

Khao Soi Street Stall. Luang Prabang Khao Soi street food. Opens around 17:00. Southwest end of night market. 35,000 kip.

L'Elephant. A lovely restaurant with a mix of Lao and French foods. The food is extremely good, but has its price. Ingredients are of the highest quality, ranging from French Camembert to Laotian lemongrass and river weeds. The menu is both pricey and some items do not justify the price tag. Great ambience.

La Silapa Italian & Lao Restaurant, Phommathat Road (in front of Wat Aham (near Wat Visoun). 17:00-23:30. Italian or local food. Particularly good are the Parmesan aubergine, pork lasagna, fresh pasta with mushroom and truffles, and the tiramisú. Big garden (with a Fiat), big room with air-con and nice terrace on the street with free Wi-Fi. Happy hour with Aperol Spritz and wine for 50,000 kip, and buy one get one free.

Hmong Night Market. 17:00-22:00. One food stall says vegetarian and the other "végétalien" (vegan). Approximately 5,000 kip for a plate. Popular with budget travellers, but not an option for those looking for tasty food. Cash only. Eat at your own risk as hygiene is questionable.

The House, Kingkitsarath Road 10 (at the Nam Khan riverside of Mount Phousie, a few min away from main street and night market, +856 71 255021. The only Belgian restaurant/bar in Luang Prabang. Excellent price/quality food. It has an appealing range of Belgian beer, cocktails and wine. Known for its lasagna, stews and curries. Recommended for vegetarians. A green bamboo garden with fairy lights confers a pleasant ambience. Attentive staff.

Indochina Spirit. Excellent Lao and Thai food. Great value. Everything is tasty, but try the minced fish and aubergines. Has old, stuffy, and a not so pleasant odor at the interior tables.

Joma Bakery Cafe, +856 71 252292. 07:00-21:00. Free Wi-Fi, air-con on both floors and free full-menu delivery service from 07:00-19:30. Great music and friendly staff. 8,000-43,000 kip.

Lao Lao Garden. Attractively designed bar/restaurant notable for its Lao-style barbecue. You cook meat on a barbecue mounted in the centre of the table. A backpacker favourite and busy in the evenings with loud club music. If you prefer to cook your barbecue in an atmosphere of quiet contemplation there are other BBQ options along the riverside.

Nisha Restaurant. 09:00-22:00. Popular Indian/Tamil food. Great vegetarian/vegan options but serves (halal) meat as well. 20-50,000 kip.

Un Petit Nid-Biblio Bistro. Very relaxing bistro serving excellent Lao and Western food in a nice atmosphere. Try the orlam with spicy wood. Good vegetarian menu.

Rosella Fusion Restaurant. Clean and well-cooked food. A small place (blink, and you'll miss it) that looks like a fruit shake place. Locally owned by Lao man who trained at Amantaka Restaurant. Possibly the best steaks in town, certainly great cocktails. Slow service, but worth it.

Saffron Caffè. Excellent coffee. It comes from the surrounding mountains. The banana shake macchiato is recommended. Delicious fresh baked goods such as their cinnamon swirls and banana muffins go quickly. Granola and salad wraps are good.

Sala Café. Nice place with a view of the Nam Khan River. This restaurant-bar is an open air terrace where you can relax while trying homemade Vietnamese, French, and Lao specialities. Some think it expensive, but quality has its price.

Scandinavian Bakery. Good Western breakfasts and burgers. Food must be paid for before eating.

Shakes & Crepes. A no-name place serving delicious shakes for 5,000 kip and fantastic sweet crepes starting at 7,000 kip.

Tamarind. Specialises in introducing Western tourists to Lao food, so the dishes are offered with explanations and the menu is full of information. Traditional Lao food in sampler format. Platter combinations of dips, salads, etc., as well as set menus. Only a small wine list, but good range of fruit drinks. Popular cooking classes in a garden setting. Sells food products, recipe books.

Viewpoint Café and Restaurant, Mekong Riverside Rd, Xieng Thong Village (Next to Mekong Riverview Hotel, +856 71 254900. 07:00-23:00. High quality Lao and Western food.

There are a number of places to drink around Luang Prabang, though the late-night club scene is pretty much nonexistent. The liveliest and busiest bars are in a small cluster between Mt Phousi and the Nam Khong.

Luang Prabang's status means that curfews are strictly enforced here. Bars start winding down at 23:00 and close at 23:30 sharp. The only late-night options permitted are outside the main part of town, a discothèque patronised mostly by locals and bizarrely, a ten pin bowling alley.

If you do plan on staying out after hours, check the arrangements with your guesthouse first to avoid being locked out.

If you're simply looking to relax and enjoy the river views, most riverside restaurants have tables outside where you can sit back with a beer or two.

• Books and Tea L'Etranger. Downstairs is a book shop/swap and upstairs is a bar selling drinks and cake in a room covered in cushions for lazing around and reading. Movies everyday at 19:00. A tad greedy and unfriendly on the book exchange business.
• Hive Bar, Phousi Rd. Closes 23:30 sharp. Established and highly popular watering hole, with cosy brick-lined rooms and an outside terrace. Notable for their ethnic fashion shows at 19:00 most days of the week and their range of Lao Lao cocktails.
• Lao Lao Garden and the adjacent Lao Lao Bar, Phousi Rd. Closes 23:30. Popular with the backpacker crowd. In addition to their acclaimed food, it is marketed as a place to "drink like a fish for the price of water".
• Mekong Sunset Beach Bar. The place to go to watch the sunset. Located at the river mouth of Nam Khan and Mekong, you have to cross the bamboo bridge behind Wat Xieng Thong and walk 3 min. Very simple but unbelievable. Floods in the rainy season.
• Morning Glory Cafe. Run by a laid-back couple. Thai and Western food. Good wine, by the glass. Garden seating. Temple in front and street life can be enjoyed.
• Utopia. 08:00-23:30. Aims to be a relaxing garden by day and tropical jungle lounge by night, when it fills up with backpackers. Gorgeous views along the Nam Khan River, great venue and a laid back crowd, very popular and a good place to meet other backpackers. Free Wi-Fi. When they close everyone is pushed out into tuk-tuks headed for a bowling alley quite a way outside of town (rumored to be run by the Mafia) where the party continues.

Books and Tea L'Etranger. Downstairs is a book shop/swap and upstairs is a bar selling drinks and cake in a room covered in cushions for lazing around and reading. Movies everyday at 19:00. A tad greedy and unfriendly on the book exchange business.

Hive Bar, Phousi Rd. Closes 23:30 sharp. Established and highly popular watering hole, with cosy brick-lined rooms and an outside terrace. Notable for their ethnic fashion shows at 19:00 most days of the week and their range of Lao Lao cocktails.

Lao Lao Garden and the adjacent Lao Lao Bar, Phousi Rd. Closes 23:30. Popular with the backpacker crowd. In addition to their acclaimed food, it is marketed as a place to "drink like a fish for the price of water".

Mekong Sunset Beach Bar. The place to go to watch the sunset. Located at the river mouth of Nam Khan and Mekong, you have to cross the bamboo bridge behind Wat Xieng Thong and walk 3 min. Very simple but unbelievable. Floods in the rainy season.

Morning Glory Cafe. Run by a laid-back couple. Thai and Western food. Good wine, by the glass. Garden seating. Temple in front and street life can be enjoyed.

Utopia. 08:00-23:30. Aims to be a relaxing garden by day and tropical jungle lounge by night, when it fills up with backpackers. Gorgeous views along the Nam Khan River, great venue and a laid back crowd, very popular and a good place to meet other backpackers. Free Wi-Fi. When they close everyone is pushed out into tuk-tuks headed for a bowling alley quite a way outside of town (rumored to be run by the Mafia) where the party continues.

Be sure to buy a small (or big depending on your needs) backpacking-sized plastic bottled water, and don't throw it away, then refill it as you go along from your hotel's/guesthouse's or tour agent's office water dispenser. They are ubiquitous and one should not consider water expenses in the budget.

If you can't find one along the backpackers' area, go to the lobby of the Phra Lang Phra Lao, a separate building besides the National Museum, beyond the huge King Sisavangvong statue, and re-supply. The water dispenser is at the right hand side at the far end of the corner from the entry door. There is also an available toilet with no charge. Or ask at any shop or agent.

• Huay Xai - for those departing by boat to Thailand this is the necessary stopover
• Vang Vieng - the next stop on the backpacker circuit for many younger travellers.
• For a more serene experience:
  • Nong Khiaw - to North
  • Muang Ngoi Neua
• Vientiane
• Hanoi
• Nong Khiaw