Battambang

Battambang is Cambodia's second most populous city, and a popular tourist destination due to the nearby ancient temples, the circus, and the bamboo railway. It is the capital of Battambang Province.

Despite being Cambodia's second largest city, Battambang is often overlooked in favor of the more popular Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Battambang is quieter, less commercial and cheaper, and provides an opportunity to see a slightly less Westernized Cambodian city. Remnants of French colonial architecture can be spotted around the city, and there are food and lodging options that will cater to most budgets and tastes.

• Battambang Circus, Phare Ponleu Selpak (10 min journey by tuk-tuk from the centre of Battambang, +855 53 952424. Probably the most interesting thing happening in Battambang. You can check their website for the schedule or find the calendar printed on flyers around town. The shows are fun, energetic and exciting and include a range of circus disciplines. The ticket price helps support the NGO school which works with disadvantaged children and teenagers. USD14 (Jan 2018).
• Phnom Sampeu. A hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few others caves adorned with Buddhist statues, and a monastery with two Buddhist stupas on the hilltop. The admission charge also includes Wat Banan. It takes about 1 hr to climb the circuit to the monastery on top, with a short-cut leading back down to the shops and restaurants which line the approach road. USD3.
• Statues. Battambang is known for its statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities. The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town and province derives from this legend.
• Wat Banan. The so-called mini-Angkor Wat, an impressive flight of stairs lead up to a dilapidated Angkor-style temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine.
• Wat Baydamram. A temple where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the Buddhist monks.
• Wat Ek Phnom. Angkor-type temple ruin. The road runs along lovely small rivers flanked by trees and small villages making it a generally nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom, you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat, which is certainly picture-worthy. The grounds of the wat also have an Angkorian-era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.
• Wat Samraong Knong. Roughly translates as "wat in the forest". An extremely old pagoda on the east side of the Sangker River. The eerie old wat was used as a Khmer Rouge prison, and there were many executions on the premises. A new pagoda is now being built, and there is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, with graphic illustrations, just to the north.

Battambang Circus, Phare Ponleu Selpak (10 min journey by tuk-tuk from the centre of Battambang, +855 53 952424. Probably the most interesting thing happening in Battambang. You can check their website for the schedule or find the calendar printed on flyers around town. The shows are fun, energetic and exciting and include a range of circus disciplines. The ticket price helps support the NGO school which works with disadvantaged children and teenagers. USD14 (Jan 2018).

Phnom Sampeu. A hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few others caves adorned with Buddhist statues, and a monastery with two Buddhist stupas on the hilltop. The admission charge also includes Wat Banan. It takes about 1 hr to climb the circuit to the monastery on top, with a short-cut leading back down to the shops and restaurants which line the approach road. USD3.

Statues. Battambang is known for its statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities. The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town and province derives from this legend.

Wat Banan. The so-called mini-Angkor Wat, an impressive flight of stairs lead up to a dilapidated Angkor-style temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine.

Wat Baydamram. A temple where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the Buddhist monks.

Wat Ek Phnom. Angkor-type temple ruin. The road runs along lovely small rivers flanked by trees and small villages making it a generally nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom, you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat, which is certainly picture-worthy. The grounds of the wat also have an Angkorian-era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.

Wat Samraong Knong. Roughly translates as "wat in the forest". An extremely old pagoda on the east side of the Sangker River. The eerie old wat was used as a Khmer Rouge prison, and there were many executions on the premises. A new pagoda is now being built, and there is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, with graphic illustrations, just to the north.

• Bamboo Train. The term "train" is here used loosely: a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine. A trip on the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. It is regulated by Battambang's Tourist Police, with a standard rate of USD5 per person, minimum 2 people or USD10 for one person, with discounts for larger groups. Ask the driver to pause at scenic places. The Bamboo Train is running along the new track: it takes about 10 minutes to get to a stop where you can buy drinks and t-shirts:; it then returns along the same route. USD5 per person shared, USD10 solo.
• Soksabike Tours, Street 1.5, (near Psar Nat, +855 12542019. Soksabike is a social enterprise dedicated to sustainable tourism in Battambang. They offer half day and full day bike tours around the countryside where guests can learn about the everyday life and culture of Cambodia. The money for the tour is distributed to families in the community along the way and goes to pay the salaries of the guides, all local university students. They use high-quality mountain bikes, provide a helmet and even include a coffee at one of the best cafes in town. Hotel pickup included and group discounts are available.
• Butterfly Tours, +855 89 297070. Takes you on a half-day or full-day trip to various sites around Battambang. The tour is an initiative run by university students. The guides are students of English at the university level and provide an interesting local insight into life in Cambodia. Hotel pickups in Battambang. USD15 per person. Group discounts.
• Green Orange Kayak, +855 77 204 121. Go on a beautiful Stung Sangker River voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy to Battambang, past riverside terraces and traditional bamboo houses. Get away from the dusty roads and learn first hand about traditional fishing and farming techniques. Half-day trip, 11 km. USD12.
• Volunteer Teaching English, +855 12 326577. Stay at a home stay in Samroang Khnong Village and volunteer to help teach English to children. Call Mr. Sophorn and he will pick you up from town and make you very welcome indeed. No experience or special skills are required, just a willingness to help the delightful local children speak a bit more English. The small price includes accommodation and three delicious meals a day. USD12 per person per night.
• Battambang Countryside trip, +855 77 854 044. Offers tuk-tuk day trips to the countryside surrounding Battambang including seeing local crafts, temples and other major sites. Customised trips available.

• Ch'Ngainh Ch'Ngainh, +855 12 639350. A homey, familial approach to cookery conducted in a family home. Daily courses priced at USD10.
• Nary's Kitchen, +855 12 763950.Battambang's original cooking school, and still highly popular. Hotel pick-up, market tour to buy ingredients. $10 (4 separate dishes; vegetarian available; free cookbook to take away).
• Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5 (in the city center, +855 12 821 400. You'll meet Chef-owner Vannak outside the restaurant and go by tuk-tuk to a produce market south of town to buy herbs, vegetables and fish; then you'll go to his house outside of town and spend about two hours cooking up several Khmer dishes. The patio-turned-training-kitchen is authentically Khmer, an insight into how most of Cambodia cooks and eats. Vannak's is very knowledgable about Khmer cuisine and speaks excellent English, so everyone (from amateurs to pro cooks) will learn something. USD10.

Ch'Ngainh Ch'Ngainh, +855 12 639350. A homey, familial approach to cookery conducted in a family home. Daily courses priced at USD10.

Nary's Kitchen, +855 12 763950.Battambang's original cooking school, and still highly popular. Hotel pick-up, market tour to buy ingredients. $10 (4 separate dishes; vegetarian available; free cookbook to take away).

Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5 (in the city center, +855 12 821 400. You'll meet Chef-owner Vannak outside the restaurant and go by tuk-tuk to a produce market south of town to buy herbs, vegetables and fish; then you'll go to his house outside of town and spend about two hours cooking up several Khmer dishes. The patio-turned-training-kitchen is authentically Khmer, an insight into how most of Cambodia cooks and eats. Vannak's is very knowledgable about Khmer cuisine and speaks excellent English, so everyone (from amateurs to pro cooks) will learn something. USD10.

Bamboo Train. The term "train" is here used loosely: a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine. A trip on the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. It is regulated by Battambang's Tourist Police, with a standard rate of USD5 per person, minimum 2 people or USD10 for one person, with discounts for larger groups. Ask the driver to pause at scenic places. The Bamboo Train is running along the new track: it takes about 10 minutes to get to a stop where you can buy drinks and t-shirts:; it then returns along the same route. USD5 per person shared, USD10 solo.

Soksabike Tours, Street 1.5, (near Psar Nat, +855 12542019. Soksabike is a social enterprise dedicated to sustainable tourism in Battambang. They offer half day and full day bike tours around the countryside where guests can learn about the everyday life and culture of Cambodia. The money for the tour is distributed to families in the community along the way and goes to pay the salaries of the guides, all local university students. They use high-quality mountain bikes, provide a helmet and even include a coffee at one of the best cafes in town. Hotel pickup included and group discounts are available.

Butterfly Tours, +855 89 297070. Takes you on a half-day or full-day trip to various sites around Battambang. The tour is an initiative run by university students. The guides are students of English at the university level and provide an interesting local insight into life in Cambodia. Hotel pickups in Battambang. USD15 per person. Group discounts.

Green Orange Kayak, +855 77 204 121. Go on a beautiful Stung Sangker River voyage from the small village of Ksach Poy to Battambang, past riverside terraces and traditional bamboo houses. Get away from the dusty roads and learn first hand about traditional fishing and farming techniques. Half-day trip, 11 km. USD12.

Volunteer Teaching English, +855 12 326577. Stay at a home stay in Samroang Khnong Village and volunteer to help teach English to children. Call Mr. Sophorn and he will pick you up from town and make you very welcome indeed. No experience or special skills are required, just a willingness to help the delightful local children speak a bit more English. The small price includes accommodation and three delicious meals a day. USD12 per person per night.

Battambang Countryside trip, +855 77 854 044. Offers tuk-tuk day trips to the countryside surrounding Battambang including seeing local crafts, temples and other major sites. Customised trips available.

ATMs very occasionally swallow cards (and banks don't give them back), so use cards that are cancellable online, and bring a spare.

• Heng Chhay Ly Supermarket, Borei Road off Street 1, +855 53-6555566. 07:00–21:30.
• Chea Neang Drink Shop Supermarket, 611 Street 3, +855 12697097. 06:00–20:00.
• Psar Nath & Psar Boeung Chhoeuk (Public markets). Fruit stalls.
• Lucky Supermarket, NE corner of intersection @Hwy 5, Street 524/106, La He St. 8AM–10PM.

Heng Chhay Ly Supermarket, Borei Road off Street 1, +855 53-6555566. 07:00–21:30.

Chea Neang Drink Shop Supermarket, 611 Street 3, +855 12697097. 06:00–20:00.

Psar Nath & Psar Boeung Chhoeuk (Public markets). Fruit stalls.

Lucky Supermarket, NE corner of intersection @Hwy 5, Street 524/106, La He St. 8AM–10PM.

There are plenty of places to eat, but after 19:00 some places close and lots of streets become dark, so eating early (around 18:00) is recommended.

You can get some great French-style bread (by French standards) for 1,000 riel a medium-size baguette up north, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main inter-provincial road. The bread that street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, similar to that found in Phnom Penh, baguette-shapes, but sprinkled with sugar. Some people do not notice any difference between the bread sold in the north and elsewhere in Battambang. It is generally of decent quality all across the city.

• Apple of Love, St 2.5, #63, +855 12 415513, +855 12 963189. 07:00-22:00. Khmer cuisine with a French twist, sophisticated and creative with pleasant staff. Wine list.
• Au Cabaret Vert Restaurant, Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2 (5 min from the market by tuk-tuk, +855 53 6562000,+855 77 991384. Traditional Cambodian dishes, their speciality is fish amok, complemented by a French-style menu that includes desserts and wine. USD9-16 for a main course, starters USD8-12.
• Bamboo Train Café & Bar'. 06:30–22:00. Relaxed atmosphere, delicious food and friendly staff.
• Cafe Eden. We-Mo 07:30-21:00. Western-style river front cafe restaurant run by an American woman. Serves Western and Asian food, and coffee. Kitchen works to Western food handling and preparation standards.
• Coconut Lyly, Street 111 (200 m west from central market, +855 16 399 339. 09:00–22:00. Offers a nice compact menu with mainly Khmer dishes. The food is recommendable. USD3-4 for a main course.
• Choco l'art Cafe, Street 117 (1½ blocks west of Street 3), +855 10 661 617. 08:00–23:00. Coffee shop with assorted omelets and both sweet and savory crepes. Popular with local NGO workers and some expats.
• Flavors of India, Street 121 (Near intersection with Road 1.5), +855 53 731 553. 11:00–22:00. Excellent North Indian dishes with local and imported beers, lassi and noteworthy entrees. Mains from USD 3-5.
• Gecko Cafe, St 3 (One block south of Psa Nath Market. Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu. Free Wi-Fi.
• Natural, N091-G34 Rd 3. 20 Ousaphear Village, Svaypoar Commune (St 3, 100 m south of the central market, +855 89 409 958. A shop and organic coffee place. The shop sells handmade clothes, bags and wallets made by local home based producers and from other local NGOs, watercolour post cards, and pictures made by art students from another NGO. Organic fruit shakes, green tea with fruits and vegetarian breakfast & brunch options. There is also a Khmer lady weaving using an authentic old loom.
• Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5. This Battambang mainstay offers a good variety of Khmer, Thai and Western food in an aging-yet-charming setting that echoes the city itself. Vegetarian friendly. Good drinks. USD3-5.
• White Rose. Huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. This place is a bit more 'Asian' than Western, but is still full of foreigners. Service is chaotic, food is quite good, and the upstairs provides one of the few Battambang eateries where you get an outlook and a breeze.
• Ambrosia Cafe, 112 Street 2, +855 92766938. Su-F 07:00–22:00; Sa 18:00-22:00. Excellent cafe with good western and Khymer food at reasonable prices. They also have a selection of board games and an xbox if you want to play. They have a film night on Tuesdays using a good projector (free, as long as you are eating/drinking there).
• Heng Chhay Ly Food Court (3rd Floor), Borei Road off Street 1. 8AM–9PM.
• Nary Kitchen, +855 12 763 950. Home of Battambang's original cooking school, this restaurant remains highly popular. A nice range of Asian and Western dishes, $3 to $4.50. Nice shakes. Host speaks fluent English and French. Central.

Apple of Love, St 2.5, #63, +855 12 415513, +855 12 963189. 07:00-22:00. Khmer cuisine with a French twist, sophisticated and creative with pleasant staff. Wine list.

Au Cabaret Vert Restaurant, Toul Ta Ek, Otakom 2 (5 min from the market by tuk-tuk, +855 53 6562000,+855 77 991384. Traditional Cambodian dishes, their speciality is fish amok, complemented by a French-style menu that includes desserts and wine. USD9-16 for a main course, starters USD8-12.

Bamboo Train Café & Bar'. 06:30–22:00. Relaxed atmosphere, delicious food and friendly staff.

Cafe Eden. We-Mo 07:30-21:00. Western-style river front cafe restaurant run by an American woman. Serves Western and Asian food, and coffee. Kitchen works to Western food handling and preparation standards.

Coconut Lyly, Street 111 (200 m west from central market, +855 16 399 339. 09:00–22:00. Offers a nice compact menu with mainly Khmer dishes. The food is recommendable. USD3-4 for a main course.

Choco l'art Cafe, Street 117 (1½ blocks west of Street 3), +855 10 661 617. 08:00–23:00. Coffee shop with assorted omelets and both sweet and savory crepes. Popular with local NGO workers and some expats.

Flavors of India, Street 121 (Near intersection with Road 1.5), +855 53 731 553. 11:00–22:00. Excellent North Indian dishes with local and imported beers, lassi and noteworthy entrees. Mains from USD 3-5.

Gecko Cafe, St 3 (One block south of Psa Nath Market. Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu. Free Wi-Fi.

Natural, N091-G34 Rd 3. 20 Ousaphear Village, Svaypoar Commune (St 3, 100 m south of the central market, +855 89 409 958. A shop and organic coffee place. The shop sells handmade clothes, bags and wallets made by local home based producers and from other local NGOs, watercolour post cards, and pictures made by art students from another NGO. Organic fruit shakes, green tea with fruits and vegetarian breakfast & brunch options. There is also a Khmer lady weaving using an authentic old loom.

Smokin' Pot, corner of Street 121 and Road 1.5. This Battambang mainstay offers a good variety of Khmer, Thai and Western food in an aging-yet-charming setting that echoes the city itself. Vegetarian friendly. Good drinks. USD3-5.

White Rose. Huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. This place is a bit more 'Asian' than Western, but is still full of foreigners. Service is chaotic, food is quite good, and the upstairs provides one of the few Battambang eateries where you get an outlook and a breeze.

Ambrosia Cafe, 112 Street 2, +855 92766938. Su-F 07:00–22:00; Sa 18:00-22:00. Excellent cafe with good western and Khymer food at reasonable prices. They also have a selection of board games and an xbox if you want to play. They have a film night on Tuesdays using a good projector (free, as long as you are eating/drinking there).

Heng Chhay Ly Food Court (3rd Floor), Borei Road off Street 1. 8AM–9PM.

Nary Kitchen, +855 12 763 950. Home of Battambang's original cooking school, this restaurant remains highly popular. A nice range of Asian and Western dishes, $3 to $4.50. Nice shakes. Host speaks fluent English and French. Central.

• Center Cafe, St 3 (One block towards the river from the Lux Hotel. 07:30–24:00. Cheap and tasty Western and Khmer dishes. The usual beer, coffee and smoothies. Nice atmosphere and tours/bus tickets available at prices much cheaper than the hotels (half the price for a day-bus ticket to Phnom Penh than what the Lux Hotel quotes). Staff speak decent English and the manager/owner is very friendly. USD1–5.
• Espresso Cafe. Everything is provided with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant.
• Fresh Eats, St 2.5 (A few doors down from Apple of Love/La Pomme d'Amour. NGO restaurant with a reasonably-priced menu with lots of fruit juices, breakfast foods and make-your-own sandwiches.
• Madison Corner, St 2.5, +855 12 415 513. 06:00–late. The unique pub in town. Enjoy a drink, draught beer, cocktail, home-made rum and a wide range of ice creams and local snacks. Some of the best crepes in Cambodia. A popular meeting place.
• Scoop Cocktail Bar, KO St, Romcheak 5, Sangkat Ratanak (River, east bank, +855 53 953255. 06:00–late. Live sports on a 40 in LCD and 2 LCD 30 inches. Good cocktails, free tapas and snacks. Happy hour 17:00-19:99 and 22:00-23:30: draught beer USD0.75, buy 2 get 1 free, all cocktails USD2.50). USD0.75–5.00.
• Street One and a Half, End of St 1.5 (Head south from central market on St 2, turn left and it's at the end/corner of that little street. Good cafe menu with a few snacks but mainly just excellent coffee and drinks. Cool alleyway atmosphere.

Center Cafe, St 3 (One block towards the river from the Lux Hotel. 07:30–24:00. Cheap and tasty Western and Khmer dishes. The usual beer, coffee and smoothies. Nice atmosphere and tours/bus tickets available at prices much cheaper than the hotels (half the price for a day-bus ticket to Phnom Penh than what the Lux Hotel quotes). Staff speak decent English and the manager/owner is very friendly. USD1–5.

Espresso Cafe. Everything is provided with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant.

Fresh Eats, St 2.5 (A few doors down from Apple of Love/La Pomme d'Amour. NGO restaurant with a reasonably-priced menu with lots of fruit juices, breakfast foods and make-your-own sandwiches.

Madison Corner, St 2.5, +855 12 415 513. 06:00–late. The unique pub in town. Enjoy a drink, draught beer, cocktail, home-made rum and a wide range of ice creams and local snacks. Some of the best crepes in Cambodia. A popular meeting place.

Scoop Cocktail Bar, KO St, Romcheak 5, Sangkat Ratanak (River, east bank, +855 53 953255. 06:00–late. Live sports on a 40 in LCD and 2 LCD 30 inches. Good cocktails, free tapas and snacks. Happy hour 17:00-19:99 and 22:00-23:30: draught beer USD0.75, buy 2 get 1 free, all cocktails USD2.50). USD0.75–5.00.

Street One and a Half, End of St 1.5 (Head south from central market on St 2, turn left and it's at the end/corner of that little street. Good cafe menu with a few snacks but mainly just excellent coffee and drinks. Cool alleyway atmosphere.

Battambang has a very high temperature Feb–May, when air conditioning (which adds perhaps $5 to room cost) is hard to do without. For those with vulnerable stomachs, the hot season is also the least safe, food-wise. Like all Cambodian cities, Battambang is dusty, and eye infections can result. Wear your largest sunglasses when moving around on foot or by tuk tuk. Mosquito-borne diseases such as dengue, malaria and Japanese encephalitis are around, so keep up the mosquito repellant.

Street dogs (including those fed by stallholders in the main market, Psar Nath) occasionally attack non-locals, so carrying stick or stones is a good precaution if out walking. As with everywhere in SE Asia, women with bags are the prime target of thieves. The thief will more often than not be on a motorbike.

Boys aged 7 to early teens begging on the streets are generally glue-sniffers: buy them food but don't give them money. Adults with 'charity ID' collecting money 'for the children', generally near the river, are scammers. Sometimes they'll ask you to volunteer to teach local kids English: this generally ends in an attempt to get money from you.

Whilst many Westerners find love in Cambodia, many are taken in by very convincing scammers - be careful. As for sex workers, a high number have HIV and STDs. In the more traditional Asian societies, skimpy clothing is generally only worn by prostitutes. Foreigners baring too much flesh is disrespectful.

Traffic officially keeps right, but in reality is all over the road. Look both ways before moving. Pedestrian crossings are disregarded by drivers, and will afford no safety. ATMs occasionally swallow your card: bring a spare.

If you're sick or injured, see a Western-trained doctor, not one trained in Cambodia. There is often at least one of these at the Handa Medical Centre - including a Filipino woman doctor trained to Western standards. (No appointment needed: just show up.)

• Battambang Buzz, +855 12 870993. A free guide book. Available at restaurants throughout Battambang. Free.
• Battambang Connect is a Google group for residents, though visitors sometimes drop in to get advice.

Battambang Buzz, +855 12 870993. A free guide book. Available at restaurants throughout Battambang. Free.

Battambang Connect is a Google group for residents, though visitors sometimes drop in to get advice.

• Phnom Penh
• Siem Reap (for Angkor)