Kampong Cham

Kampong Cham is the seventh largest city in Cambodia and the capital of the province of the same name.

This relatively small city has yet to be heavily visited like Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. It carries with it plenty of colonial French charm, and has a genuine "wild west" feel to it. Most travellers who do find themselves in Kampong Cham are in transit to elsewhere in the country, but those who choose to spend at least a couple of days in the provincial capital will enjoy the laid back atmosphere and quaint charm.

Most people in Kampong Cham are ethnic Khmer, but there is a sizeable Cham minority in the province's towns, including a disproportionately high number of Muslims and Christians.

Because there is little foreign investment and no large scale tourism, this city is very poor, with few modern buildings, though not lacking in French architecture from the colonial period. However, with the completion of a modern two-lane bridge across the Mekong, the city has begun a slow recovery from decades of decline. The people of Kampong Cham are, like all Cambodians, very friendly and open to engaging with tourists.

If recent projects seem to be improving the state of things here (relative to other Cambodian cities), it may be because both Prime Minister Hun Sen and former Phnom Penh Governor Chea Sophara came from this province and the current governor is the PM's brother.

Kampong Cham isn't chock full of tourist attractions, but its colonial charm and atmosphere will endear itself to you. There are a few temples to see in the area, and one of the country's mass graves.

• Abandoned US Airstrip. Formerly used by B52 bombers. There is not much left to see apart from the pavement of the airstrip and two decaying buildings next to it, a pillbox and the control tower probably. Leaving the airstrip on the left (west) will eventually lead to Mountain Pros and Srey. Going right (east) to the end of the strip and turning right again will lead you back to Kampong Cham.
• Apsara Dancing. There are occasional performances at 17:00, mainly on weekends and holidays, behind (east of) Wat Nokor (Nokor Bachey Temple) by the children and teenagers looked after and educated by BSDA, a non-governmental organisation (NGO) located at the temple site and managed by the monks. Entrance is free, donations are certainly welcome. Performances seem to be mainly on request, and the children and teenagers will be very happy to show off their talents.
• The Bamboo Bridge and Koh Paen. A solid bamboo structure built on Koh Paen Island across the Mekong. On the other side are Cham and Khmer villages, entirely mounted on stilts. This is a great place to drive along if you want to check out the people. The bamboo bridge can even withstand trucks, so don't worry about whatever you're taking, just be careful not to fall into the river. The bridge is washed away as the river rises in the wet season, and access to the island is only possible by boat, but it is rebuilt again every dry season.Sometimes the locals might try to charge you a dollar for walking across, which is much more than the local toll.
• French Lookout Tower. Once used for monitoring river traffic. It's still standing but in a decaying state. You can climb the stairs inside the tower and have a good view on the bridge, the Mekong and the small village next to the tower. The stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, and there is a hornet's nest at the top.
• Nokor Wat. An Angkorian temple dating from the 11th century, containing a standard assortment of Angkor architecture. Some of the mausoleums are open to tourists and contain piles of bones and skulls from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal reign. Inside one of the buildings is a very elaborate series of wall paintings, depicting torture and executions (of a religious nature), followed by scenes of heaven and the afterlife. This is not always an accessible building, as a monk has to unlock it for you. He usually does, though your driver may ask you to refrain. The tourist police may ask you for money for their own purposes. If you are stingy, you can enter the temple from the other side for free. Don't miss the beautiful sunset in the old Angkorian ruins. The visit to this site can easily be combined with a trip to Pros and Srei Mountains.

• Phnom Hanchey. Temple on a hilltop. The view of the beautiful Cambodian landscape on the way there makes it worth it! If you can make it up very early (around 05:00) you'll see a gorgeous sunrise over the Mekong.
• Pros and Srei Mountains. West of the city are a pair of "mountains", with temples on top of them. It makes an easy ride on a bicycle, but road traffic can be heavy by Cambodian standards. Mt Pros has a dull peak and is approximately 30 m tall. There are a series of temples at the top, with the centrepiece being a five pagoda temple. There are outlying temples, most of which are ruined and falling apart. Sip sugar cane juice from one of the many stalls on the top while watching the monkeys fooling around and stealing bananas from the vendors tables. The Mt Srey has 308 steps running up it, with a ruined temple at the top. There are no monks at this one, but there are several women and old men who collect donations from visitors. Between the two mountains lies one of the country's many killing fields where the Khmer Rouge dumped countless bodies, though in this case it's nothing more than a cement shed and a pile of bones.
• Wat Maha Leap. One of the few remaining wooden pagodas in Cambodia, it is really quite beautiful. You'll probably need a local guide to find it, or ask your tuk-tuk driver. Nearby is a village known for its weaving. You can see silk being weaved and dyed and, of course, there is always some for sale.

Abandoned US Airstrip. Formerly used by B52 bombers. There is not much left to see apart from the pavement of the airstrip and two decaying buildings next to it, a pillbox and the control tower probably. Leaving the airstrip on the left (west) will eventually lead to Mountain Pros and Srey. Going right (east) to the end of the strip and turning right again will lead you back to Kampong Cham.

Apsara Dancing. There are occasional performances at 17:00, mainly on weekends and holidays, behind (east of) Wat Nokor (Nokor Bachey Temple) by the children and teenagers looked after and educated by BSDA, a non-governmental organisation (NGO) located at the temple site and managed by the monks. Entrance is free, donations are certainly welcome. Performances seem to be mainly on request, and the children and teenagers will be very happy to show off their talents.

The Bamboo Bridge and Koh Paen. A solid bamboo structure built on Koh Paen Island across the Mekong. On the other side are Cham and Khmer villages, entirely mounted on stilts. This is a great place to drive along if you want to check out the people. The bamboo bridge can even withstand trucks, so don't worry about whatever you're taking, just be careful not to fall into the river. The bridge is washed away as the river rises in the wet season, and access to the island is only possible by boat, but it is rebuilt again every dry season.Sometimes the locals might try to charge you a dollar for walking across, which is much more than the local toll.

French Lookout Tower. Once used for monitoring river traffic. It's still standing but in a decaying state. You can climb the stairs inside the tower and have a good view on the bridge, the Mekong and the small village next to the tower. The stairs are difficult and dangerous to climb, and there is a hornet's nest at the top.

Nokor Wat. An Angkorian temple dating from the 11th century, containing a standard assortment of Angkor architecture. Some of the mausoleums are open to tourists and contain piles of bones and skulls from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal reign. Inside one of the buildings is a very elaborate series of wall paintings, depicting torture and executions (of a religious nature), followed by scenes of heaven and the afterlife. This is not always an accessible building, as a monk has to unlock it for you. He usually does, though your driver may ask you to refrain. The tourist police may ask you for money for their own purposes. If you are stingy, you can enter the temple from the other side for free. Don't miss the beautiful sunset in the old Angkorian ruins. The visit to this site can easily be combined with a trip to Pros and Srei Mountains.

Phnom Hanchey. Temple on a hilltop. The view of the beautiful Cambodian landscape on the way there makes it worth it! If you can make it up very early (around 05:00) you'll see a gorgeous sunrise over the Mekong.

Pros and Srei Mountains. West of the city are a pair of "mountains", with temples on top of them. It makes an easy ride on a bicycle, but road traffic can be heavy by Cambodian standards. Mt Pros has a dull peak and is approximately 30 m tall. There are a series of temples at the top, with the centrepiece being a five pagoda temple. There are outlying temples, most of which are ruined and falling apart. Sip sugar cane juice from one of the many stalls on the top while watching the monkeys fooling around and stealing bananas from the vendors tables. The Mt Srey has 308 steps running up it, with a ruined temple at the top. There are no monks at this one, but there are several women and old men who collect donations from visitors. Between the two mountains lies one of the country's many killing fields where the Khmer Rouge dumped countless bodies, though in this case it's nothing more than a cement shed and a pile of bones.

Wat Maha Leap. One of the few remaining wooden pagodas in Cambodia, it is really quite beautiful. You'll probably need a local guide to find it, or ask your tuk-tuk driver. Nearby is a village known for its weaving. You can see silk being weaved and dyed and, of course, there is always some for sale.

Kampong Cham is a sleepy provincial capital, and as such there isn't a whole lot to actually do, and those seeking plenty of activities to keep themselves occupied will become bored within a day.

• Buddhism and Society Development Association, 5, Nokor Bachey Temple, Ampil Village, Ampil Commune, Kampong Siem District. A registered NGO running several charitable projects for the local community. This includes Mekong Kampuchea's Kids Project (a street children's theatre), Natural Resource Management and livelihood project (food security and livelihood for single women and the poorest of the poor), Education Project (School For Life, vocational training and life skills), Health Project (HIV/AIDS Prevention and Harm Reduction Drug Abuse Project), and as well as a Social Accountability Project (good governance). There are opportunities for volunteering.

Buddhism and Society Development Association, 5, Nokor Bachey Temple, Ampil Village, Ampil Commune, Kampong Siem District. A registered NGO running several charitable projects for the local community. This includes Mekong Kampuchea's Kids Project (a street children's theatre), Natural Resource Management and livelihood project (food security and livelihood for single women and the poorest of the poor), Education Project (School For Life, vocational training and life skills), Health Project (HIV/AIDS Prevention and Harm Reduction Drug Abuse Project), and as well as a Social Accountability Project (good governance). There are opportunities for volunteering.

Kampong Cham features a few markets, but the best is the one the locals use. It features all sorts of food, ranging from standard mangoes and other fruits, to pig heads and live fish. As with all other food places in the area, use common sense when buying here, as there are health hazards to the unsuspecting Westerner. It's just down the road from the Mekong Crossing restaurant, but stalls only open during daylight hours. Some food and juice stalls stay open until late, around 21:00.

• Cambodia Public Bank (5-7, Ph Angduong, coming from the bridge turn right at the roundabout from where it is about 200 m) exchange money and has an ATM accepting VISA, MasterCard and Maestro. This is the last ATM when heading north until Pakse in Laos.
• Canadia Bank, not to be confused with Canada, this bank is wholly Cambodian-owned. This particular branch doesn't take baht, and exchanges money at a slightly poorer rate (approximately 4,000 riel to the USD) than you'll get at your guesthouse or on the street. They will cash traveller cheques and offer free advances on MasterCards. Best to avoid unless you need to replenish your supply of US dollars.
• Acleda Bank (31-33, Ph Khemarak Phomin) also has an ATM but doesn't yet accept international cards. They can change dollars and Thai baht only, but they accept traveller's cheques. Western Union services are also available.
• Money changers are available throughout the city, particularly in and around the markets - look out for packets of money on display. They will give you a slightly better rate than the banks but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht and Vietnamese dong. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is not possible to change Lao kip.
• Internet cafes, there are a couple of Internet cafes around town, especially on Ang Duong St between the market and the bridge over the Mekong. The going rate is 2,500 riel per hour.

Cambodia Public Bank (5-7, Ph Angduong, coming from the bridge turn right at the roundabout from where it is about 200 m) exchange money and has an ATM accepting VISA, MasterCard and Maestro. This is the last ATM when heading north until [[Pakse]] in [[Laos]].

Canadia Bank, not to be confused with [[Canada]], this bank is wholly Cambodian-owned. This particular branch doesn't take baht, and exchanges money at a slightly poorer rate (approximately 4,000 riel to the USD) than you'll get at your guesthouse or on the street. They will cash traveller cheques and offer free advances on MasterCards. Best to avoid unless you need to replenish your supply of US dollars.

Acleda Bank (31-33, Ph Khemarak Phomin) also has an ATM but doesn't yet accept international cards. They can change dollars and Thai baht only, but they accept traveller's cheques. Western Union services are also available.

Money changers are available throughout the city, particularly in and around the markets - look out for packets of money on display. They will give you a slightly better rate than the banks but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht and Vietnamese dong. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is not possible to change Lao kip.

Internet cafes, there are a couple of Internet cafes around town, especially on Ang Duong St between the market and the bridge over the Mekong. The going rate is 2,500 riel per hour.

The Western-style restaurants cluster at the river front. Budget travellers can get a variety of local foods in the food market just south of Psar Thom. At the north end of Psar Thom are a couple of local restaurants. Beware of hygienic conditions though. Self-caterers find fresh fruit and vegetables at the market, other ingredients can often be found in the surrounding shops. Flour is hard to get.

• Destiny Coffee House, Shop 12 Vithei Pastuer (Near the river front, opposite Sophary Internet on the road between the food market and the riverbank, +855 17 328034. 07:00-16:30. Run by a community-based NGO that enables rural youth to access employment and high quality vocational training. The cafe serves fresh and vibrant quality food that is a relief to the travelling foreigner! The coffee house also has a reputation for it's delicious home made cakes and cookies (~USD1.50), as well as its real espresso. The décor is clean and crisp, and the complimentary Wi-Fi makes it a great place to relax. Some travellers report that it is frequently closed. USD2-4.
• Hao An, +855 12 941234. Large restaurant, very tourist friendly, and serves plenty of genuine Khmer food, as well as other Asian cuisine. Excellent place to lounge about and drink beer and good for shared dishes. USD2-3.
• Lazy Mekong Daze, Ph Sihanouk (River side. Very similar to Mekong Crossing. The style of the place as well as the menu targets mainly foreign customers. French owner, Frank. Try the Mekong fish with lemon sauce. Has a free pool table and good music. In the tourist season they run a sunset cruise and also have a couple of bicycles and motorbikes for rent.
• Mekong Crossing, +855 42 6755598. A popular restaurant run by an American expat, this small place serves up a variety of Western foods, including burgers, pasta and pizza. The Khmer food is heavily Westernised. Free Wi-Fi.
• San Te Hap Restaurant. Cheap, tasty tofu and seafood dishes for around. Try the seaweed curry. 2,000 to 4,000 riel.
• Smile Cafe, +855 42 6900605. The smartest eatery in town. Run by a local NGO, Buddhism and Society Development Association, (BSDA) as a training restaurant for orphans and vulnerable youth, it serves tasty Khmer and Western dishes and the décor is a cut above everywhere else. The food is good quality, but many of the Khmer dishes are quite similar. Try the delicious fruit shakes. There is a relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant, with a few sofas having a view of the Mekong. If you’re around with your laptop, it's one of the few eateries in town offering free Wi-Fi. Prices are reasonable, and you're helping a good cause. USD2.50-5.
• Spien Thmei Restaurant, Ph Preah Bat Sihanouk (Down the road from the Mekong Hotel. Standard Khmer and Asian restaurant. It's quite large, with oversized doors that never close as long as it's open, though without a doubt you'll remember this place for its wacky menu. The food is of great quality, but rarely matches what's on the menu. Still, since it's good food regardless of what arrives at your table and you aren't charged more (or perhaps because the staff don't speak much English), be a good patron and don't complain.

Destiny Coffee House, Shop 12 Vithei Pastuer (Near the river front, opposite Sophary Internet on the road between the food market and the riverbank, +855 17 328034. 07:00-16:30. Run by a community-based NGO that enables rural youth to access employment and high quality vocational training. The cafe serves fresh and vibrant quality food that is a relief to the travelling foreigner! The coffee house also has a reputation for it's delicious home made cakes and cookies (~USD1.50), as well as its real espresso. The décor is clean and crisp, and the complimentary Wi-Fi makes it a great place to relax. Some travellers report that it is frequently closed. USD2-4.

Hao An, +855 12 941234. Large restaurant, very tourist friendly, and serves plenty of genuine Khmer food, as well as other Asian cuisine. Excellent place to lounge about and drink beer and good for shared dishes. USD2-3.

Lazy Mekong Daze, Ph Sihanouk (River side. Very similar to Mekong Crossing. The style of the place as well as the menu targets mainly foreign customers. French owner, Frank. Try the Mekong fish with lemon sauce. Has a free pool table and good music. In the tourist season they run a sunset cruise and also have a couple of bicycles and motorbikes for rent.

Mekong Crossing, +855 42 6755598. A popular restaurant run by an American expat, this small place serves up a variety of Western foods, including burgers, pasta and pizza. The Khmer food is heavily Westernised. Free Wi-Fi.

San Te Hap Restaurant. Cheap, tasty tofu and seafood dishes for around. Try the seaweed curry. 2,000 to 4,000 riel.

Smile Cafe, +855 42 6900605. The smartest eatery in town. Run by a local NGO, Buddhism and Society Development Association, (BSDA) as a training restaurant for orphans and vulnerable youth, it serves tasty Khmer and Western dishes and the décor is a cut above everywhere else. The food is good quality, but many of the Khmer dishes are quite similar. Try the delicious fruit shakes. There is a relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant, with a few sofas having a view of the Mekong. If you’re around with your laptop, it's one of the few eateries in town offering free Wi-Fi. Prices are reasonable, and you're helping a good cause. USD2.50-5.

Spien Thmei Restaurant, Ph Preah Bat Sihanouk (Down the road from the Mekong Hotel. Standard Khmer and Asian restaurant. It's quite large, with oversized doors that never close as long as it's open, though without a doubt you'll remember this place for its wacky menu. The food is of great quality, but rarely matches what's on the menu. Still, since it's good food regardless of what arrives at your table and you aren't charged more (or perhaps because the staff don't speak much English), be a good patron and don't complain.

All the Western restaurants on the river front also serve beer and often cocktails, have happy hours, and often offer discounts.

• Riverside Beers, in the late afternoon and early evening, food and drink stalls set up shop here opposite the Mekong Hotel right on the river front. Trees line the side of the road, making it a great place to pitch up a hammock, crack open a bottle of Angkor beer, and strike up a conversation with any of the motodop drivers who will congregate here (of course they'll be asking you what your plans are and where you're going the next day). Beers are 2,000 riel a pop, and any of the stands will stay open as late as you want to sell drinks to you.
• Fresh sugar cane juice is sold on every corner in the city centre area. Some of the sugar cane presses are engine-driven, others require manually turning the wheel. It's fun to watch and makes a refreshing drink. Try out a few vendors since the taste is always a bit different (about 1,000 riel a glass).

Riverside Beers, in the late afternoon and early evening, food and drink stalls set up shop here opposite the Mekong Hotel right on the river front. Trees line the side of the road, making it a great place to pitch up a hammock, crack open a bottle of Angkor beer, and strike up a conversation with any of the motodop drivers who will congregate here (of course they'll be asking you what your plans are and where you're going the next day). Beers are 2,000 riel a pop, and any of the stands will stay open as late as you want to sell drinks to you.

Fresh sugar cane juice is sold on every corner in the city centre area. Some of the sugar cane presses are engine-driven, others require manually turning the wheel. It's fun to watch and makes a refreshing drink. Try out a few vendors since the taste is always a bit different (about 1,000 riel a glass).

Since many travellers who pass through here are on their way north to Kratie and other areas, the best thing to do is to simply hop on a bus to wherever it is you are going. If you have your own transportation, just get out and drive. Hwy 7 is in good condition all the way up to the border with Laos.

• Phnom Penh

• Bicycle and Motorbike, Kratie is about a 100 km ride from Kompong Cham along the Mekong. It is mostly a dirt road in good condition so it is possible even by bicycle to reach Kratie in one day. Otherwise stop in Chlong for the night. Take Rte 223 north out of Kampong Cham up to Stung Trang (Preaek Barang), then take the ferry over the Mekong (1,500 riel) and continue along Rte 338. It should also be possible to first cross the bridge in Kompong Cham and take Rte 338 from there but this stretch of road is in a very bad condition (although the first few km are smooth) and not recommended.

Bicycle and Motorbike, [[Kratie]] is about a 100 km ride from Kompong Cham along the Mekong. It is mostly a dirt road in good condition so it is possible even by bicycle to reach [[Kratie]] in one day. Otherwise stop in [[Chlong]] for the night. Take Rte 223 north out of Kampong Cham up to [[Stung Trang]] ([[Preaek Barang]]), then take the ferry over the Mekong (1,500 riel) and continue along Rte 338. It should also be possible to first cross the bridge in Kompong Cham and take Rte 338 from there but this stretch of road is in a very bad condition (although the first few km are smooth) and not recommended.

The border from Trapeang Phlong in Cambodia to Xa Mat in Vietnam is open to international tourists. On the Cambodian side you have to organise your own transport either all the way from Kampong Cham or take first a Kratie bound bus to Krek and then a motorbike for the remaining 14 km to the border. On the Vietnamese side there are regular public buses running to Tay Ninh a few hundred metres from the border. Visas are not available at the border and the formalities may take a while. People in Kampong Cham may tell you that this is not an international border.