Nong Khiaw

Laos

Nong Khiaw (Nong Kiau or Nong Kiew) is a rustic little town on the bank of the Ou River in Laos. It is squeezed in between some of the most fantastic limestone mountains to be found north of Vang Vieng.

Many travellers pass through on the way up river to the even more isolated Muang Ngoi, but Nong Khiaw has a plenty of charm, a decent range of accommodation, plus conveniences like 24 hour electricity and a connection to the road network for those interested in exploring the surrounding area.

Since Tiger Trail has opened their tour office in Nong Khiaw there is suddenly something more to see. They will take you out for various trips, hikes, river tours, bamboo raft workshop, village stay. A must-see is the 100 waterfalls jungle hike already featured on a TV show. Daily tours seem to run with minimum 2 persons. It gets more affordable with 3-5 people joining.

  • Pha Tok Caves. This cave, set high in a limestone cliff, sheltered villagers and Pathet Lao fighters during the Second Indochina War. The caves are reached via steep concrete steps, and inside a few signs identify points where command posts were stationed. Entrance fees are collected at the bottom where you can also borrow a torch. The trail to the cave passes through many rice paddies and a small section of jungle. If you ask the people at the ticket desk, you should be able to arrange a boat ride back to Nong Khiaw from a local. For 2 people in a very small longtail boat (max 2 people plus skipper) the price was 50,000 kip. 5,000 kip.

Pha Tok Caves. This cave, set high in a limestone cliff, sheltered villagers and Pathet Lao fighters during the Second Indochina War. The caves are reached via steep concrete steps, and inside a few signs identify points where command posts were stationed. Entrance fees are collected at the bottom where you can also borrow a torch. The trail to the cave passes through many rice paddies and a small section of jungle. If you ask the people at the ticket desk, you should be able to arrange a boat ride back to Nong Khiaw from a local. For 2 people in a very small longtail boat (max 2 people plus skipper) the price was 50,000 kip. 5,000 kip.

  • Phadeng Peak. Viewpoint to see a 360 degree view of the town and surrounding mountains. Entrance is well signed about 500m East of the bridge. 20,000 kips as May 2017. Takes 1-1.5h to reach the top. Perfect sunrise/sunset spot.
  • Walk around the village enjoying the village feel with great views over the Nam Ou River.
  • Walk or bicycle on the dirt road behind the Riverside Resort for some scenic views and nature.
  • Rated one of the best hikes in Laos is the is the "100 Waterfalls" trek operated by Tiger Trail and Fair trek initiative. Some of their treks go to the interactive culture lodge.
  • Go rock climbing or abseiling
  • Kayaking, cycling and trekking.
  • Rent a mountain bike and push eastwards to remote Khmu and Hmong villages. Riverside Guest House rents mountain bikes for 50,000 kip and city bikes for 10,000 kip.
  • Go for a herbal steam bath or massage at Sabai Sabai

Phadeng Peak. Viewpoint to see a 360 degree view of the town and surrounding mountains. Entrance is well signed about 500m East of the bridge. 20,000 kips as May 2017. Takes 1-1.5h to reach the top. Perfect sunrise/sunset spot.

The few small shops on the main street cater more for locals than tourists, and offer little more than basic necessities.

Mini-mart near the bridge on the west side.

Money can be changed near the boat landing - Youth travel agency or over the Bridge at Riverside Guest House. Riverside can also offer cash advances on credit cards.

  • BCEL Bank. Good exchange rates. Traveller's cheques accepted and an ATM. There is also a BCEL ATM by the east end of the bridge, near the Riverside Resort turnoff. An easy way to get cash up before going to Muang Ngoi.

BCEL Bank. Good exchange rates. Traveller's cheques accepted and an ATM. There is also a BCEL ATM by the east end of the bridge, near the Riverside Resort turnoff. An easy way to get cash up before going to Muang Ngoi.

  • CT Bakery. Offers fine views from its riverside terrace. Free Wi-Fi. Lao coffee here is particularly good.
  • Vongmany restaurant. Tasty Lao food. Try their local dish "Jeow Mak Len" (a small bowl of lao style pan-fried tomatoes, herbs and spices accompanied by steamed vegtables for dipping. A healty starter or light snack. Very popular with locals. 15'000 kip)
  • Deen Restaurant, +856 20 2214 8895. Indian food. The portions of the set meals (veg/non veg 20'000/25'000 kip) are not very big and are insufficent, if you are quit hungry. Wi-Fi.
  • Delilah's. A selection of everything home made including ice cream, bread, soups and salads. No MSG or additives used. Laos Western fusion cuisine with a creative twist. Free Wi-Fi.
  • Mackana. Has both Lao and Western food, including a whole page of German breakfasts (which the menu says they learned from a German friend). Nice sandwiches, but be careful if ordering "tofu" that you actually get tofu and not meat. The advertised cappuccino containing an espresso shot with fresh local milk is just a packet mix.
  • Morning Dew Restaurant. Excellent Lao and Western food at cheap prices. Open for breakfast through to dinner. Made to order baguettes, Lao coffee, and cold beer. Friendly English speaking owner "Dith" is a great source of local info.
  • Nong Kiau Riverside Eco-lodge. Very good Lao, Asian and Western food. Beautiful view over the river. Prices a little higher than other restaurants nearby.
  • Sabai Sabai. Local Lao food in a nice atmospheric setting.
  • Sunset Restaurant. Reasonable prices for the food, and river view.
  • Chennai. A great indian restaurant (better than Deen) with a veg and non veg tali that can feed two people for 30,000 Kip. Great shakes and Lao coffee. Free wifi.
  • Alex Restaurant. Long time favourite with tourists. Cheep cozy place with delicious Laos and Western food. Fantastic and friendly hostess.

CT Bakery. Offers fine views from its riverside terrace. Free Wi-Fi. Lao coffee here is particularly good.

Vongmany restaurant. Tasty Lao food. Try their local dish "Jeow Mak Len" (a small bowl of lao style pan-fried tomatoes, herbs and spices accompanied by steamed vegtables for dipping. A healty starter or light snack. Very popular with locals. 15'000 kip)

Deen Restaurant, +856 20 2214 8895. Indian food. The portions of the set meals (veg/non veg 20'000/25'000 kip) are not very big and are insufficent, if you are quit hungry. Wi-Fi.

Delilah's. A selection of everything home made including ice cream, bread, soups and salads. No MSG or additives used. Laos Western fusion cuisine with a creative twist. Free Wi-Fi.

Mackana. Has both Lao and Western food, including a whole page of German breakfasts (which the menu says they learned from a German friend). Nice sandwiches, but be careful if ordering "tofu" that you actually get tofu and not meat. The advertised cappuccino containing an espresso shot with fresh local milk is just a packet mix.

Morning Dew Restaurant. Excellent Lao and Western food at cheap prices. Open for breakfast through to dinner. Made to order baguettes, Lao coffee, and cold beer. Friendly English speaking owner "Dith" is a great source of local info.

Nong Kiau Riverside Eco-lodge. Very good Lao, Asian and Western food. Beautiful view over the river. Prices a little higher than other restaurants nearby.

Sabai Sabai. Local Lao food in a nice atmospheric setting.

Sunset Restaurant. Reasonable prices for the food, and river view.

Chennai. A great indian restaurant (better than Deen) with a veg and non veg tali that can feed two people for 30,000 Kip. Great shakes and Lao coffee. Free wifi.

Alex Restaurant. Long time favourite with tourists. Cheep cozy place with delicious Laos and Western food. Fantastic and friendly hostess.

Cold Beerlao is served everywhere in local restaurants. The small shops sell cheap but decent Lao Lao in unlabelled bottles.

  • Coco Home Bar & Restaurant. 08:00-22:30. Bar & restaurant serving authentic Thai and Western dishes by a Thai chef. Full range of cocktails, mixers and shots. Movies shown at 08:00, 12:00, and 18:00 every day on big balcony with river-mountain views. Two raised chill out huts and a comfy hideaway inside. Free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, message board, and blankets available all night.

Coco Home Bar & Restaurant. 08:00-22:30. Bar & restaurant serving authentic Thai and Western dishes by a Thai chef. Full range of cocktails, mixers and shots. Movies shown at 08:00, 12:00, and 18:00 every day on big balcony with river-mountain views. Two raised chill out huts and a comfy hideaway inside. Free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, message board, and blankets available all night.

The Nong Kiau Riverside and Coco Bar have Internet for a small fee. The speed can be very slow. Most restaurants have free Wi-Fi.

North of Nong Khiaw one hour by boat is Muang Ngoy Kao or Old Muang Ngoi, a backpackers favourite, with both limited road access (3 hours instead of 1 by boat) and electricity available only since 2013, and a backpacker vibe, with village treks nearby, then north by boat to Muang Khua.

Boat connection to Luang Prabang is no longer available due to the dam built on the river downstream; take a local bus, or, better, a minibus/shared taxi (50,000 kip/person) from the bus station. Daily service to Luang Namtha via Udom Xai is also available, and costs (October 2017) 100,000 kip to Luang Namtha.