York

The ancient cathedral city of York has a history dating back over 2000 years. Romans, Saxons, Vikings, and Britons from all eras have each left their mark. It is home to some of Europe's best preserved historical buildings and structures, including York Minster and dozens of other churches, the Shambles medieval shopping street, countless handsome townhouses, and the city's walls and gatehouses. Other popular attractions on the bucket lists of York's 7 million annual visitors include the Jorvik Viking Centre and Britain's National Railway Museum.

York is in North Yorkshire, England, and is the unofficial capital of the entire region of Yorkshire. The city is a perfect base for exploring "God's own county", having some of the finest hotels around, and all the comforts and amenities of a large city, while retaining the atmosphere and scale of a small town. York's shops, markets, pubs, and restaurants all delight in offering Yorkshire-made produce, so you will find it difficult not to overindulge.

A UNESCO City of Media Arts, York has a festival for every occasion, celebrating everything that has shaped the city's culture over the centuries: music, dance, chocolate, theatre, literature, horseracing, digital media. Whatever time of year you come, you're sure to find a gig, show or exhibition that tickles your fancy.

So, plunge forward, and discover York!

Navigate to: History, When to visit, York Pass

Although only the sixth largest city in Yorkshire and having no official status, York is regarded as the county's capital, and is also positioned just east of its geographic centre. For 1800 years, it was the largest and most important city in northern England, though today has a rather modest population just shy of 200,000 people. Despite its size, York packs in more history and culture than many much larger places, and is a fascinating and beautiful destination any time of year. York city centre is a compact and dense warren of mostly pedestrianised streets lined with centuries-old buildings in a mix of architectural styles, from timber frame medieval structures, to much grander stone and brick edifices from later periods. The centre straddles both banks of two rivers - the Ouse (pronounced ooze) and the Foss - which merge just south of the castle. At the city's heart stands the imposing York Minster, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, and the mother church for northern England's Anglican community. The Archbishop of York (John Sentamu, as of 2019) holds the third highest office in the Church of England, after the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Queen. York's old town is completely encircled by a series of defensive medieval walls. At just over 2 miles (3.2 km) long, 13 feet (4 m) high, and 6 feet (1.8 m) thick, they are the UK's most extensive and best-preserved city walls.

Most visitor attractions are within or just outside these walls, so you will seldom find yourself venturing into York's outer neighbourhoods. However, if you do, you will find them pleasant and residential, mostly containing red brick houses from the 19th and 20th centuries. There is a modern university campus around Heslington in the south-eastern suburbs, a large racecourse called the Knavesmire in the south-west, and extensive parks along the Ouse's journey through the northern and southern suburbs. This urban sprawl is bounded by a modern day city wall of sorts: the ring road separates York from its rural surroundings, the well-endowed farmlands and villages of the Vale of York.

York has played a crucial role in many eras of English history, and the city's own story closely mirrors that of the country as a whole.

Evidence of human settlement in York dates back to 8000 BC, but the city wasn't founded until 71 AD by the Romans, who named it Eboracum, as a Latinisation of the Celtic Eburākon, meaning "yew tree place". Initially little more than a military outpost at the confluence of the rivers Ouse and Foss, Eboracum quickly became one of the most important cities in Roman Britain, and from 211 was the capital of the Britannia Inferior province; Emperors Hadrian, Septimius Severus and Constantius I all visited during their military campaigns against the native Britons and Picts. The latter of the three actually died during his stay, and his son, the future Constantine the Great, was first proclaimed Emperor in the city by his generals. Constantine later converted to Christianity, and legalised freedom of religion throughout the Empire. Eboracum was prosperous and particularly attracted merchants and retired veterans of the Emperors' wars. Why said retirees apparently chose the damp and chilly Yorkshire climate over the Empire's many Mediterranean provinces remains one of history's great mysteries.

After Rome, the 5th century brought the arrival of the Angles - the first Englishmen. This period saw the expansion of the city's trading prowess, the founding of York Minster as a small wooden church, and a spell of political prominence under the Kings of Northumbria. By 735, the Minster was already important enough to be the seat of an archbishop. But Eoforwic ("place rich in boar"), as it was now known, proved too much of a success and quickly caught the attention of avaricious Norsemen: Vikings had been harrying and raiding the north of England since the 700s, but why sail for days just to snatch a pig and a bracelet and rush back to sea, when they could harvest this rich farmland for their own? So, in 866, a huge army of Danes captured Eoforwic and, realising that name was a hopeless mouthful, rechristened their new city Jórvík (pronounced "Yor-vik"). From here, they controlled pretty much all of northern and eastern England, in a region known as the Danelaw. Jórvík was pretty perfect as a Viking capital, since its inland location offered defence and shelter, while the Ouse provided their longboats easy access to the sea via the Humber. Even though Viking power waxed and waned over the centuries, large numbers of Scandinavian people settled permanently in the region, meaning Jórvík was a bilingual (Old English and Old Norse) city at the time of the Norman Conquest.

By 1066, the Vikings had once again been ousted by the Saxons, but nursed ambitions to return. Harold Godwinson was crowned King of England, but faced a combined invasion by his exiled brother Tostig and the Norse king Harald Hardrada. The invaders won a battle at Fulford just outside York, but King Harold marched north and defeated them at Stamford Bridge 15 miles east. Yet, while his back was turned, William the Conqueror's Normans invaded from across the English Channel. Harold marched south again, this time to crippling defeat at Hastings. England came under Norman rule, and the Anglo-Saxon/Norse society that the country had developed, and York exemplified, was dismantled swiftly and brutally. The Harrying of the North was a violent campaign of oppression against rebellious northerners in the years after the Conquest. From his castle in York, King William ordered the mass murder of civilians, demolition of numerous villages and burning of crops across the north of England, and York was also heavily damaged. As in the rest of the country, Normans became the new aristocracy, with the English and remaining Norse people reduced to serfdom. From this point on, the Normans consolidated their rule with the construction of castles, monasteries and great cathedrals. York Minster's Gothic design first took shape in the 12th century, while the present city walls, their gates (known as bars), and Clifford's Tower also cemented the Normans' impact on York's cityscape.

The late Medieval period produced much important architectural and cultural heritage, which are still evident today. The centuries-long construction of the Minster finally wrapped in 1472, while the higgledy-piggledy timber-frame shops of the Shambles mostly date from the 14th and 15th centuries. York's Mystery Plays, performing weird and wonderful Bible stories, were begun in the same era and continue to the present day. Then, in 1455, England was consumed by civil war: rival royals from York and Lancaster fought a brutal series of campaigns for control of the crown. Yorkist armies marched under the banner of a white rose, while their enemy Lancastrians followed the red rose, hence the name of this conflict, the Wars of the Roses. The last Yorkist king, Richard III, was finally defeated in combat at the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485, 30 years after the wars began. The Lancastrians' leader, Henry VII, became the first monarch of the Tudor dynasty, and both York in general and King Richard in particular were subsequently demonised.

The city's economy and status went into a long decline which wouldn't be recovered until after England's second Civil War, during which York was yet again on the wrong side of history, and besieged by the ultimate victors (Parliament) for 10 weeks in 1644. The siege and subsequent storming of the city destroyed many medieval buildings, but paved the way for fashionable new brick townhouses to be built as York regained its mojo in the late 17th and 18th centuries.

This resurgence in the city's wealth may have been what saved York's ancient streets from the smoke-stack industry which sprang up in many other northern towns from the late 18th century onwards. However, the industrial revolution didn't bypass York completely. In the 1840s, the first long-distance railway raced north from London to Edinburgh, and York's station was constructed as a cathedral of sorts in homage to the great connecting power of trains, while the locomotive yards next door kept the country's engines moving. The city found its other manufacturing niche soon after when the Rowntree family opened their chocolate factory. Many of their creations - among them KitKat, Aero and Smarties - are still staple snacks in the UK and around the world. The Rowntrees, known for their philanthropy, were Quakers, a religious group which has had a strong presence in York for three centuries, and have done much to shape its development - they were also behind the burgeoning rail industry.

While its prominence and relative size in comparison to other cities have dwindled since the 19th century, and its status as capital of the north credibly challenged by the likes of Manchester and Leeds, York remains prosperous and lively. Named the best city to live in the UK by The Sunday Times, in 2019, the city is 1,948 years old, and today's visitor will easily recognise and marvel at just how well York has preserved aspects from every major episode of its history, as much in the way of culture and traditions as in the built environment.

Summer clearly brings the best chance of sun and warmth, and is thus the finest time to make the most of the city's squares, parks and rivers. If you really like flat caps and whippets, then be sure to be in town on 1 August for Yorkshire Day, when a procession of proud Yorkshiremen march their white rose flags all through the streets. Summer visitors may also get the chance to see festivals dedicated to chocolate, early music and folk dance, and the really lucky may even catch a mystery play - although these follow an irregular schedule and don't take place every year.

On the other hand, summer is when everyone visits, so is not the best time if you don't like mingling with thousands of your fellow tourists. Besides, nobody comes to North Yorkshire for the weather, and summer washouts are just as likely as heatwaves, so why not take a punt on autumn or winter? Some of the city's key annual events, such as the Viking Festival and Christmas celebrations, take place in the chillier half of the year. What's more, you need short days in order to experience the magical atmosphere of a twilit evensong in the Minster, and you need to get cold to fully appreciate the cosiness of a hearty meal and pint next to a roaring fire in one of York's pubs.

By the way, if you're planning to use York as a base to explore the wider region's countryside and coast, then spring is the season for you. The fields and trees are at their greenest, wildflowers are in bloom, visitor numbers are fewer, and the late spring weather is often better suited to hiking and walking than high summer. And honestly, who doesn't love the sight of spring lambs gamboling about joyfully?

• Visitor Information Centre, 1 Museum Street, YO1 7DT, +44 1904 555 670. M-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 10AM-4PM. A first port-of-call for maps, hundreds of leaflets, attraction discounts and impartial advice from local experts.

If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing, you can save money by purchasing the York Pass, a ticket which gives you access to around 50 attractions in York and across North Yorkshire. The pass also includes a 24-hour ticket for the City Sightseeing bus tour, a free Italian meal, and a guidebook and map.

A one-day pass for 26 attractions in the city costs per adult and per child, while a three-day pass for all participating attractions costs per adult and per child. Two-day and six-day passes are also available. You can buy online or in person at the visitor information centre. When buying online, allow five working days for postage to a UK address (£1.95), and 10 working days for international postage ; alternatively, you can download your pass to your smartphone instantly and for free.

The pass is activated when you enter your first attraction. The one-day pass is valid for one calendar day, not a 24-hour period. Two-day and six-day passes are valid for consecutive calendar days, while the three-day pass is valid for any three calendar days over a period of six consecutive days. The pass covers the entry fee of every participating attraction, but does not allow you to queue jump or to have privileged access.

Two caveats: to get your money's worth, you should visit at least five ticketed attractions on a one-day pass, or three attractions per day on a multiday pass; if this sounds like too much, the pass is not for you. The other caveat is that some attractions which are already free to visit (like the Shambles, city walls and railway museum) are marketed as being 'free' with the pass, which while technically true is also misleading.

Visitor Information Centre, 1 Museum Street, YO1 7DT, +44 1904 555 670. M-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 10AM-4PM. A first port-of-call for maps, hundreds of leaflets, attraction discounts and impartial advice from local experts.

Navigate to: York Archaeological Trust, York Museums Trust, Churches, Out-of-town sights There's plenty to see in York, but if you leave without visiting the Minster and either the Jorvik Viking Centre or the National Railway Museum, you're doing it wrong. If you only have a day, prioritise two of these.

Aside from these three standout attractions, the joy of York is in wandering the ancient streets and coming across surprising buildings and beautiful views all by yourself. You might find old churches, timber-framed shops, the ruins of an abbey, or the leftovers of medieval defences.

• York Minster, Deangate, YO1 7HH, +44 1904 557 200. Minster visits: M-Sa 9AM-4:30PM, Su 12:30PM-3PM; Museum: M-Sa 10AM-4:30PM, Su 1PM-3:15PM; Worship: Daily 7:30AM-6PM. The largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe, York Minster dominates the skyline and dates back to the 8th century at least. The Undercroft Museum, beneath the Minster, displays centuries worth of archaeological findings in an interactive display. Then, climb the 275 steps to the top of the Minster's Central Tower to experience panoramic views from York's highest spot (ages 8+ only). The nightly Evensong worship has haunting acoustics, and is the only way of accessing the cathedral on Sunday late afternoons. On the south side of the Minster outside, don't miss the statue of Constantine the Great., who was in 306 AD proclaimed emperor of Rome in York. At the far end of the plaza from this is a Roman column. which was unearthed beneath the Minster and reerected in 1971 to mark the 1,900th anniversary of the city's founding. Once you've seen all this, relax in the Dean's Park. - a simple expanse of grass and trees that affords breathtaking views of the north side of the Minster. In spring or summer, you may catch a glimpse of nesting peregrine falcons. Adult £11.50, senior £10.50, student with ID £9, child under 17 free. Access to Minster, museum and guided tour included; £5 extra for tower. Park and plaza free.
• Clifford's Tower, Tower Street, YO1 9SA, +44 1904 646 940. Daily 10AM-6PM. In the 11th century, the Normans built a castle here to keep the Vikings at bay and subdue the local population following their conquest of England. The Vikings being Vikings, they promptly smashed it, so the Normans built bigger and better - the tower you see today was the castle's keep. The tower was the scene of the infamous massacre of York's Jews in 1190. In 1684, its interior was wrecked by an explosion, but the hollow tower is now the oldest remnant of the castle. The rest fell into disrepair, before being re-built as a gaol, and in modern times housing the Castle Museum. Access is by very steep steps up the hillock; it's a bit like climbing a pyramid. After closure, you can still climb to the front door and look back over the square - this is especially atmospheric after dark. Adult £5.70, child £3.40, concession £5.10, English Heritage members free.
• Fairfax House, Castlegate, YO1 9RN, +44 1904 655 543. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM, M entrance by guided tour only 11AM, 2PM. A Georgian townhouse built as the winter home for the Viscount Fairfax and his daughter, which has today been lovingly restored as a charming example of aristocratic life in York. It is decorated and furnished similar to how it would have been in the 1760s, almost exclusively using objects from the private collection of chocolatier Noel Terry (1889 - 1979). Giuseppe Cortese's elaborately-wrought stucco ceilings are a particular highlight, adorning half a dozen of the Fairfaxs' stately rooms. 'Gregory the Townhouse Mouse' will keep your kids entertained with his exploration trails around the property. Audio tours in eight languages. Adult £7.50, child £3, concession £6.
• Guildhall, St. Helen’s Square, YO1 9QN, +44 1904 553 979. Built in the 15th century as a meeting hall for the guilds of York, the Guildhall is now also home to the city council chamber. Guilds are associations of artisans and merchants of a particular industry akin to something between a professional association, a trade union and a monopolistic cartel. In the middle ages, these guilds had a dominant role in the economies of every English city. However, the Guildhall you see today is a faithful replica, as the original was mostly destroyed by bombing in 1942. Notice the stained-glass window depicting York's history. Not open for general visits, so if you want to go in, you need to attend one of the regular civic events.
• King's Manor, Exhibition Square, YO1 7EP, +44 1904 320 000. M-F 8AM-6PM. Now the very apt home for the University of York's Archaeology Department, this was a royal headquarters during the Tudor and Stuart dynasties (16th and 17th centuries). As this is a working academic building, you may have to content yourself with admiring the Grade I listed architecture from the outside, unless you can pass as a scholar that is! Respect the students and staff, or you'll ruin it for future visitors. Free.
• Merchant Adventurers' Hall, Fossgate, YO1 9XD, +44 1904 654 818. Su-F 10AM-4:30PM, Sa 10AM-1:30PM. Remarkable timbered guild hall, built by city merchants between 1357 and 1361. The great hall was where they gathered for business and socialising, the undercroft was an almshouse for the poor and sick, and in the chapel all mercantile sins were conveniently forgiven. Good café on-site. Adult £6.50, concession £5.50, under 17s free. Admission includes audio tour in English / written guide in other languages.
• National Railway Museum, Leeman Road, YO26 4XJ (Adjacent to York railway station. Bus: 2, 10, or take the road train from the Minster, +44 3330 161 010. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-6PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-5PM. The largest railway museum in the world, with a magnificent collection of locomotives, rolling stock, railway equipment, documents and records. The bulk of it is British, but there are also great snorting monsters from China and the U.S. Highlights include Queen Victoria's opulent Royal Train, famous locos such as Stephenson's Rocket and Mallard, and a first-generation Shinkansen - the only one outside of Japan. When it's not cruising the rails in summer, Flying Scotsman overwinters at the NRM. Out in the yard, a steam-engine hauls rides in the summer, and a miniature railway operates year-round. And the best thing for railbuffs: the museum is in sight of York station and has a viewing deck overlooking the East Coast Main Line! Museum and all exhibitions free. Steam rides £4, miniature railway £3, under-2s free.
• Snickelways. These are the famous medieval (and later) alleys and narrow streets that thread the centre of the city, typically lined with timber frame and brick houses and shops. They are all pedestrianised in the daytime, and indeed most are too narrow for vehicles to use. See Mark W Jones' book A Walk Around the Snickelways of York or its hardback companion The Complete Snickelways of York with their quirky, hand-written descriptions, and follow his suggested route taking in 50 of the snickelways within the city walls. Jones himself coined the term for his books in 1983, as a triple portmanteau of the Yorkshire dialect words snicket and ginnel, and their standard English equivalent alleyway.
• Treasurer's House, Minster Yard, YO1 7JL, +44 1904 624 247. Daily 11AM-4:30PM. Grade I-listed town house and garden dating from the 12th century that acted as the official residence of York Minster's treasurers over the centuries. However, it was purchased in 1897 by Frank Green, heir to an industrialist's fortune, and transformed into a lavish pad to flaunt his enormous wealth and eclectic decorating tastes, collecting art, antiques and furniture. Today it is managed by the National Trust, and the visitor can discover both Green's dizzying collection and the contrastingly calming gardens. Like all good Trust properties, there's an on-site shop and café. Garden: free. House: adult £8.70, child £4.35, NT members free.
• York Army Museum, 3 Tower Street, YO1 9SB, +44 1904 461 010. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM. Contact via Facebook and Twitter. The museum brings together the collections of one of the Army's oldest cavalry regiments - the Royal Dragoon Guards, dating from 1685, with one of its newest infantry regiments - the Yorkshire Regiment, which was only formed in 2006. Charting the relationship between Yorkshire and the Army going back centuries, the collections span medals, standards, uniforms, firearms, swords and soldiers' personal effects, with interactive exhibits and many tales of individual courage and hardships to bring the history to life. Adult £5, child aged 5-16 years £2.50, under 5 years free, concession £4, service personnel 50% off applicable ticket.
• York Mansion House, St Helen's Square, YO1 9QL, +44 1904 553 663. W-Su, bank holidays 10:30AM-5PM. The grand official residence of the Lord Mayor of York, dating from 1732, holds an unparalleled collection of civic gold and silver, plus extensive items of furniture, ceramics, glassware and art. Adult £6.50, concession £5, child £3.50.

York Minster, Deangate, YO1 7HH, +44 1904 557 200. Minster visits: M-Sa 9AM-4:30PM, Su 12:30PM-3PM; Museum: M-Sa 10AM-4:30PM, Su 1PM-3:15PM; Worship: Daily 7:30AM-6PM. The largest [[Gothic architecture|Gothic]] cathedral in northern Europe, York Minster dominates the skyline and dates back to the 8th century at least. The Undercroft Museum, beneath the Minster, displays centuries worth of archaeological findings in an interactive display. Then, climb the 275 steps to the top of the Minster's Central Tower to experience panoramic views from York's highest spot (ages 8+ only). The nightly Evensong worship has haunting acoustics, and is the only way of accessing the cathedral on Sunday late afternoons. On the south side of the Minster outside, don't miss the statue of Constantine the Great., who was in 306 AD proclaimed emperor of Rome in York. At the far end of the plaza from this is a Roman column. which was unearthed beneath the Minster and reerected in 1971 to mark the 1,900th anniversary of the city's founding. Once you've seen all this, relax in the Dean's Park. - a simple expanse of grass and trees that affords breathtaking views of the north side of the Minster. In spring or summer, you may catch a glimpse of nesting peregrine falcons. Adult £11.50, senior £10.50, student with ID £9, child under 17 free. Access to Minster, museum and guided tour included; £5 extra for tower. Park and plaza free.

Clifford's Tower, Tower Street, YO1 9SA, +44 1904 646 940. Daily 10AM-6PM. In the 11th century, the Normans built a castle here to keep the Vikings at bay and subdue the local population following their conquest of England. The Vikings being Vikings, they promptly smashed it, so the Normans built bigger and better - the tower you see today was the castle's keep. The tower was the scene of the infamous massacre of York's Jews in 1190. In 1684, its interior was wrecked by an explosion, but the hollow tower is now the oldest remnant of the castle. The rest fell into disrepair, before being re-built as a gaol, and in modern times housing the Castle Museum. Access is by very steep steps up the hillock; it's a bit like climbing a pyramid. After closure, you can still climb to the front door and look back over the square - this is especially atmospheric after dark. Adult £5.70, child £3.40, concession £5.10, English Heritage members free.

Fairfax House, Castlegate, YO1 9RN, +44 1904 655 543. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM, M entrance by guided tour only 11AM, 2PM. A Georgian townhouse built as the winter home for the Viscount Fairfax and his daughter, which has today been lovingly restored as a charming example of aristocratic life in York. It is decorated and furnished similar to how it would have been in the 1760s, almost exclusively using objects from the private collection of chocolatier Noel Terry (1889 - 1979). Giuseppe Cortese's elaborately-wrought stucco ceilings are a particular highlight, adorning half a dozen of the Fairfaxs' stately rooms. 'Gregory the Townhouse Mouse' will keep your kids entertained with his exploration trails around the property. Audio tours in eight languages. Adult £7.50, child £3, concession £6.

Guildhall, St. Helen’s Square, YO1 9QN, +44 1904 553 979. Built in the 15th century as a meeting hall for the guilds of York, the Guildhall is now also home to the city council chamber. Guilds are associations of artisans and merchants of a particular industry akin to something between a professional association, a trade union and a monopolistic cartel. In the middle ages, these guilds had a dominant role in the economies of every English city. However, the Guildhall you see today is a faithful replica, as the original was mostly destroyed by bombing in 1942. Notice the stained-glass window depicting York's history. Not open for general visits, so if you want to go in, you need to attend one of the regular civic events.

King's Manor, Exhibition Square, YO1 7EP, +44 1904 320 000. M-F 8AM-6PM. Now the very apt home for the University of York's Archaeology Department, this was a royal headquarters during the Tudor and Stuart dynasties (16th and 17th centuries). As this is a working academic building, you may have to content yourself with admiring the Grade I listed architecture from the outside, unless you can pass as a scholar that is! Respect the students and staff, or you'll ruin it for future visitors. Free.

Merchant Adventurers' Hall, Fossgate, YO1 9XD, +44 1904 654 818. Su-F 10AM-4:30PM, Sa 10AM-1:30PM. Remarkable timbered guild hall, built by city merchants between 1357 and 1361. The great hall was where they gathered for business and socialising, the undercroft was an almshouse for the poor and sick, and in the chapel all mercantile sins were conveniently forgiven. Good café on-site. Adult £6.50, concession £5.50, under 17s free. Admission includes audio tour in English / written guide in other languages.

National Railway Museum, Leeman Road, YO26 4XJ (Adjacent to York railway station. Bus: 2, 10, or take the road train from the Minster, +44 3330 161 010. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-6PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-5PM. The largest railway museum in the world, with a magnificent collection of locomotives, rolling stock, railway equipment, documents and records. The bulk of it is British, but there are also great snorting monsters from China and the U.S. Highlights include Queen Victoria's opulent Royal Train, famous locos such as Stephenson's Rocket and Mallard, and a first-generation Shinkansen - the only one outside of Japan. When it's not cruising the rails in summer, Flying Scotsman overwinters at the NRM. Out in the yard, a steam-engine hauls rides in the summer, and a miniature railway operates year-round. And the best thing for railbuffs: the museum is in sight of York station and has a viewing deck overlooking the East Coast Main Line! Museum and all exhibitions free. Steam rides £4, miniature railway £3, under-2s free.

Snickelways. These are the famous medieval (and later) alleys and narrow streets that thread the centre of the city, typically lined with timber frame and brick houses and shops. They are all pedestrianised in the daytime, and indeed most are too narrow for vehicles to use. See Mark W Jones' book A Walk Around the Snickelways of York or its hardback companion The Complete Snickelways of York with their quirky, hand-written descriptions, and follow his suggested route taking in 50 of the snickelways within the city walls. Jones himself coined the term for his books in 1983, as a triple portmanteau of the Yorkshire dialect words snicket and ginnel, and their standard English equivalent alleyway.

Treasurer's House, Minster Yard, YO1 7JL, +44 1904 624 247. Daily 11AM-4:30PM. Grade I-listed town house and garden dating from the 12th century that acted as the official residence of York Minster's treasurers over the centuries. However, it was purchased in 1897 by Frank Green, heir to an industrialist's fortune, and transformed into a lavish pad to flaunt his enormous wealth and eclectic decorating tastes, collecting art, antiques and furniture. Today it is managed by the National Trust, and the visitor can discover both Green's dizzying collection and the contrastingly calming gardens. Like all good Trust properties, there's an on-site shop and café. Garden: free. House: adult £8.70, child £4.35, NT members free.

York Army Museum, 3 Tower Street, YO1 9SB, +44 1904 461 010. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM. Contact via Facebook and Twitter. The museum brings together the collections of one of the Army's oldest cavalry regiments - the Royal Dragoon Guards, dating from 1685, with one of its newest infantry regiments - the Yorkshire Regiment, which was only formed in 2006. Charting the relationship between Yorkshire and the Army going back centuries, the collections span medals, standards, uniforms, firearms, swords and soldiers' personal effects, with interactive exhibits and many tales of individual courage and hardships to bring the history to life. Adult £5, child aged 5-16 years £2.50, under 5 years free, concession £4, service personnel 50% off applicable ticket.

York Mansion House, St Helen's Square, YO1 9QL, +44 1904 553 663. W-Su, bank holidays 10:30AM-5PM. The grand official residence of the Lord Mayor of York, dating from 1732, holds an unparalleled collection of civic gold and silver, plus extensive items of furniture, ceramics, glassware and art. Adult £6.50, concession £5, child £3.50.

The York Archaeological Trust run five attractions, which can be visited on various individual or combined tickets. The most useful of these is the Pastport, valid for 12 months, and allowing you entrance to all five of the Trust's attractions: Jorvik, Barley Hall, DIG, the Henry VII Experience and the Richard III Experience. This is available for £20 per adult, £16 per concession, and £13 per child. Or if Vikings leave you cold, you can save a considerable amount of money by getting the Medieval Pass, which allows access just to the Barley Hall and the two Experiences: £8 per adult, £6 per concession and £4.50 per child.

• Jorvik Viking Centre, 19 Coppergate, YO1 9WT (within the Coppergate Shopping Centre, +44 1904 615 505. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. Reconstruction of York as it would have looked 1000+ years ago. The visit takes the form of a sit-down ride as you experience the sights, sounds, smells and diverse languages and faces of everyday 10th century life, with the aid of animatronics, dioramas and touchscreen technology. Although a bit like the Viking version of It's a Small World, everything you see has been meticulously researched and the centre is itself built on the archaeological remains of the real Jorvik. Audio commentary available in 15 languages. After the ride is an extensive collection of artefacts, including replicas - for more visit the Yorkshire Museum. Adult £12.50, child 5-16 years £8.50, concession £10.50. Fasttrack entry with Pastport.
• Barley Hall, 2 Coffee Yard, off Stonegate, YO1 8AR, +44 1904 615 505. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. Reconstruction of a medieval townhouse. Built in the 14th century by the monks of Nostell Priory in Wakefield, but serially chopped, changed and neglected over the centuries. By 1970 it was a plumber's storeroom, on the brink of demolition. It's now been rebuilt to how it was in the 15th century, discarding later additions. Its detractors say this was more like a retro-fit and prettification of history, but it's difficult to see how anything more "authentic" could have been made viable, and it can be accurately described as a large piece of experimental archaeology carried out by experts. Adult £6.50, child 5-16 years £3.50, concession £5. Combo ticket with Jorvik: adult £15, child £10, concession £12.
• Micklegate Bar, Micklegate, YO1 6JX, +44 1904 615 505. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-4PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-3PM weather dependant. Micklegate Bar was first recorded in the 12th century, but reuses stone from an earlier Roman gate. It has long been the official entrance to the city of York for royalty, most recently welcoming Elizabeth II during her Diamond Jubilee celebrations in 2012. Henry Tudor won the Wars of the Roses in 1485 and founded a monarchic dynasty that would shape the next 120 years of English history. The Henry VII Experience charts his life and the troubled relationship he had with the people of York, who had backed his enemy Richard during the War, and continued to rebel during his reign. Free written guides available in eight foreign languages. Adult £5, child 5-16 years £3, concession £3.50. Includes admission to Richard III Experience.
• Monk Bar, 6 Goodramgate, YO1 7LQ, +44 1904 615 505. Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. Monk Bar is one of four heavily-fortified medieval gates in the city wall, built in several stages in the early 14th century, to defend from Scottish attacks. Inside, an exhibition tells the story of Richard of York, the last Plantagenet king of England, and the man who lost the Wars of the Roses. Free written guides available in eight foreign languages. Adult £5, child 5-16 years £3, concession £3.50. Includes admission to Henry VII experience.

The fifth attraction, DIG, is listed in the Do section below.

Jorvik Viking Centre, 19 Coppergate, YO1 9WT (within the Coppergate Shopping Centre, +44 1904 615 505. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. Reconstruction of York as it would have looked 1000+ years ago. The visit takes the form of a sit-down ride as you experience the sights, sounds, smells and diverse languages and faces of everyday 10th century life, with the aid of animatronics, dioramas and touchscreen technology. Although a bit like the Viking version of It's a Small World, everything you see has been meticulously researched and the centre is itself built on the archaeological remains of the real Jorvik. Audio commentary available in 15 languages. After the ride is an extensive collection of artefacts, including replicas - for more visit the Yorkshire Museum. Adult £12.50, child 5-16 years £8.50, concession £10.50. Fasttrack entry with Pastport.

Barley Hall, 2 Coffee Yard, off Stonegate, YO1 8AR, +44 1904 615 505. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. Reconstruction of a medieval townhouse. Built in the 14th century by the monks of Nostell Priory in [[Wakefield (England)|Wakefield]], but serially chopped, changed and neglected over the centuries. By 1970 it was a plumber's storeroom, on the brink of demolition. It's now been rebuilt to how it was in the 15th century, discarding later additions. Its detractors say this was more like a retro-fit and prettification of history, but it's difficult to see how anything more "authentic" could have been made viable, and it can be accurately described as a large piece of experimental archaeology carried out by experts. Adult £6.50, child 5-16 years £3.50, concession £5. Combo ticket with Jorvik: adult £15, child £10, concession £12.

Micklegate Bar, Micklegate, YO1 6JX, +44 1904 615 505. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-4PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-3PM weather dependant. Micklegate Bar was first recorded in the 12th century, but reuses stone from an earlier Roman gate. It has long been the official entrance to the city of York for royalty, most recently welcoming Elizabeth II during her Diamond Jubilee celebrations in 2012. Henry Tudor won the Wars of the Roses in 1485 and founded a monarchic dynasty that would shape the next 120 years of English history. The Henry VII Experience charts his life and the troubled relationship he had with the people of York, who had backed his enemy Richard during the War, and continued to rebel during his reign. Free written guides available in eight foreign languages. Adult £5, child 5-16 years £3, concession £3.50. Includes admission to Richard III Experience.

Monk Bar, 6 Goodramgate, YO1 7LQ, +44 1904 615 505. Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. Monk Bar is one of four heavily-fortified medieval gates in the city wall, built in several stages in the early 14th century, to defend from Scottish attacks. Inside, an exhibition tells the story of Richard of York, the last Plantagenet king of England, and the man who lost the Wars of the Roses. Free written guides available in eight foreign languages. Adult £5, child 5-16 years £3, concession £3.50. Includes admission to Henry VII experience.

The York Museums Trust operate several civic museums and galleries. You can buy a YMT card for unlimited visits to any of the Trust's sites in a twelve month period. Children aged 16 years and under get in free to all YMT sites, so the YMT costs £25 per adult (or £20 by renewable direct debit), and £15 for a student in possession of ID (£12 by direct debit). Since the card only offers a very modest saving from the standard costs of the three ticketed YMT attractions, it is probably not worth it unless you plan to revisit one or more of the museums during your stay, and is definitely not worth it if you don't plan to visit all three.

• York Art Gallery, Exhibition Square, YO1 7EW, +44 1904 687 687. Daily 10AM-5PM. A public art gallery with a collection of paintings, prints, watercolours, drawings and ceramics from the 14th century to the contemporary era. The Burton Gallery hosts Italian and Flemish Old Masters, and early 20th century modern art, while an 18th century automaton clock featuring Hercules, waterfalls and dancing figures has pride of place. Look out for paintings by York natives William Etty and Albert Moore. There are regular temporary exhibitions throughout the year. Adult £7.27, student £5.60, child free.
• York Castle Museum, Tower Street, YO1 9RY (next to Clifford's Tower, +44 1904 687 687. Daily 9:30AM-5PM. Outstanding museum of everyday life with exhibits to appeal to all ages. Highlights are Kirkgate, a recreated Victorian street, and Half Moon Court, an Edwardian street, exhibitions of York's confectionery industry, plus costumes and toys through the ages. The site includes a former prison, in which you can experience the cells, and imagine what it was like in 1739 when infamous highwayman Dick Turpin was awaiting his execution by hanging. There are numerous special exhibitions and events throughout the year. Adult £10.90, student £8.40, child free.
• Yorkshire Museum, Museum Gardens, Museum Street, YO1 7FR, +44 1904 687 687. Daily 10AM-5PM. Interesting, and quite good for curious children. Features permanent displays of Roman and medieval riches, including the Vale of York Hoard of Viking treasure. There are also natural history sections dedicated to astronomy, biology and geology. A long-term exhibition exploring Yorkshire's Jurassic World uses VR technology and up-to-date research to engage you in the county's prehistoric past. Adult £7.27, student £5.60, child free.

  * York Museum Gardens, +44 1904 687 687. Summer daily 7:30AM-8PM, winter daily 7:30AM-6PM. Free tours every Su 1PM. This extensive botanical collection is a great place for a picnic. Perambulate through a variety of borders (butterfly-friendly, oriental, prairie), not missing out the fern garden and rockery. Daffodils and bluebells abound in spring. The gardens are not just for nature lovers, however, as they also contain much significant archaeology: the third century Roman fortification known as the Multangular Tower., which only saw action 14 centuries later during the English Civil War; the remains of St Leonard's Hospital., where the poor and sick of medieval York were cared for physically and spiritually; the ruins of the Benedictine St Mary's Abbey., which date from 1088 and once rivalled the Minster for grandeur. The small York Observatory., which was constructed in 1832/33 and is still in working condition, is also located in the gardens. It's open most days 11:30AM-2:30PM, plus some winter evenings for public astronomy events. Free. Wheelchair accessible.

• St Mary's Church, Castlegate, YO1 9RN, +44 1904 687 687. Su-W 10AM-6PM, Th 10AM-8PM, F Sa 10AM-7PM. A Saxon church, though most of the current building dates from the 13th century. Its 47 m steeple is the tallest in York and it has some fine stained-glass windows. Deconsecrated in the 1950s, St Mary's was reborn as a contemporary art venue in 2004, and now hosts exhibitions throughout the year. From 5 July 2019 until 5 January 2020, the church is fully dedicated to a major exhibition: the UK première of Van Gogh: The Immersive Experience, which comes to York following successful runs in Amsterdam and several other European cities. The "Experience" is a 360-degree multisensory digital presentation of hundreds of the Dutch post-impressionist's works, allowing you to see through the eyes of the great man himself and gain an insight to his unique mind. Access to building normally free. Van Gogh: Adult £13, concession £11, child £9.

York Art Gallery, Exhibition Square, YO1 7EW, +44 1904 687 687. Daily 10AM-5PM. A public art gallery with a collection of paintings, prints, watercolours, drawings and ceramics from the 14th century to the contemporary era. The Burton Gallery hosts Italian and Flemish Old Masters, and early 20th century modern art, while an 18th century automaton clock featuring Hercules, waterfalls and dancing figures has pride of place. Look out for paintings by York natives William Etty and Albert Moore. There are regular temporary exhibitions throughout the year. Adult £7.27, student £5.60, child free.

York Castle Museum, Tower Street, YO1 9RY (next to Clifford's Tower, +44 1904 687 687. Daily 9:30AM-5PM. Outstanding museum of everyday life with exhibits to appeal to all ages. Highlights are Kirkgate, a recreated Victorian street, and Half Moon Court, an Edwardian street, exhibitions of York's confectionery industry, plus costumes and toys through the ages. The site includes a former prison, in which you can experience the cells, and imagine what it was like in 1739 when infamous highwayman Dick Turpin was awaiting his execution by hanging. There are numerous special exhibitions and events throughout the year. Adult £10.90, student £8.40, child free.

Yorkshire Museum, Museum Gardens, Museum Street, YO1 7FR, +44 1904 687 687. Daily 10AM-5PM. Interesting, and quite good for curious children. Features permanent displays of Roman and medieval riches, including the Vale of York Hoard of Viking treasure. There are also natural history sections dedicated to astronomy, biology and geology. A long-term exhibition exploring Yorkshire's Jurassic World uses VR technology and up-to-date research to engage you in the county's prehistoric past. Adult £7.27, student £5.60, child free.

* York Museum Gardens, +44 1904 687 687. Summer daily 7:30AM-8PM, winter daily 7:30AM-6PM. Free tours every Su 1PM. This extensive botanical collection is a great place for a picnic. Perambulate through a variety of borders (butterfly-friendly, oriental, prairie), not missing out the fern garden and rockery. Daffodils and bluebells abound in spring. The gardens are not just for nature lovers, however, as they also contain much significant archaeology: the third century Roman fortification known as the Multangular Tower., which only saw action 14 centuries later during the English Civil War; the remains of St Leonard's Hospital., where the poor and sick of medieval York were cared for physically and spiritually; the ruins of the Benedictine St Mary's Abbey., which date from 1088 and once rivalled the Minster for grandeur. The small York Observatory., which was constructed in 1832/33 and is still in working condition, is also located in the gardens. It's open most days 11:30AM-2:30PM, plus some winter evenings for public astronomy events. Free. Wheelchair accessible.

St Mary's Church, Castlegate, YO1 9RN, +44 1904 687 687. Su-W 10AM-6PM, Th 10AM-8PM, F Sa 10AM-7PM. A Saxon church, though most of the current building dates from the 13th century. Its 47 m steeple is the tallest in York and it has some fine stained-glass windows. Deconsecrated in the 1950s, St Mary's was reborn as a contemporary art venue in 2004, and now hosts exhibitions throughout the year. From 5 July 2019 until 5 January 2020, the church is fully dedicated to a major exhibition: the UK première of Van Gogh: The Immersive Experience, which comes to York following successful runs in [[Amsterdam]] and several other European cities. The "Experience" is a 360-degree multisensory digital presentation of hundreds of the Dutch post-impressionist's works, allowing you to see through the eyes of the great man himself and gain an insight to his unique mind. Access to building normally free. Van Gogh: Adult £13, concession £11, child £9.

As well as the Minster, York has a number of parish churches which are of architectural or historical interest:

• All Saints, North Street, North Street, YO1 5JD, +44 1904 728 122, +44 1904 867 113. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 10:15AM-6:30PM. Colourful angels smile cheekily down at you from the ceiling in this 12th century church, which is grade I-listed due to having the finest collection of medieval stained glass windows in the city. The most famous window, dating from around 1410, depicts the Prick of Conscience - a popular Middle English poem. Free.
• All Saints Pavement, 32-37 Coppergate, YO1 9NR. Daily 9AM-7PM. Best viewed from the outside, from where you can admire its unusual octagonal tower. All Saints is also the civic church of various city guilds and the garrison church of the Royal Dragoon Guards. Free.
• Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, 70 Goodramgate, YO1 7LF (Enter via an unassuming gated archway opposite Tesco Express. Wheelchair access via Petergate next to Poundland, +44 1904 613 451. M-Sa 11AM-3:30PM. Peaceful and atmospheric grade I-listed 12th century church that you won't find unless you're looking for it. The wooden box pews and stone altar are once-common rarities from an early period in church history. Free.
• Holy Trinity, Micklegate, Micklegate, YO1 6LE, +44 1904 593 608. M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa Su 9AM-4PM. Founded prior to 1066, this is the only pre-Reformation monastic building in York that is in use today. The wooden beams supporting the roof are breathtaking, and there is a small interactive exhibition about those medieval monks and their priory, making use of touchscreens and 3D imagery. Free.
• St Helen Stonegate, 5 St Helen's Square, YO1 8QN, +44 1904 636 512. Daily dawn-dusk. A largely 15th century building, but built on a site important in Roman times and possibly founded as early as the 8th century, this is now a quiet refuge from the city's bustle. It also serves as an atmospheric and intimate concert venue. Free.
• St Martin-le-Grand, 13 Coney Street, YO1 9QL, +44 1904 636 512. Daily 9AM-5PM. Named for Martin of Tours, the bulk of the church dates from the 15th century, and what was the Great West Window depicts 13 moments from the saint's life. The building suffered heavy fire damage during an air raid of 1942, but fortunately much was restored, including some perky grinning gargoyles and a very attractive 17th century clock which adorns the façade. Free.
• St Olave, 8 Marygate Lane, YO30 7BJ. Daily dawn-dusk. Believed to be the oldest church dedication to Olaf, patron saint of Norway, it once lay in the shadows of St Mary's Abbey and is still within the abbey grounds. In the English Civil War, it formed part of York's defences during the Parliamentarians' siege of the city. Today, the churchyard is a green oasis, and St Olave's maintains its links with Scandinavia. Free.
• The Bar Convent, 17 Blossom Street, YO24 1AQ, +44 1904 643 248. M-Sa 10AM-5PM. Founded in the 17th century, when Catholics were widely persecuted in England, the convent is still home to a community of nuns, members of the Congregation of Jesus. In a small interactive museum, you can discover the brave sisters' remarkable story, from their underground origins hidden in plain sight of the authorities, right through to their survival under the bombs of the Luftwaffe. There is also an on-site café and 'secret' garden, as well as B&B-style accommodation. Adult £5, child £2, concession £4.

All Saints, North Street, North Street, YO1 5JD, +44 1904 728 122, +44 1904 867 113. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 10:15AM-6:30PM. Colourful angels smile cheekily down at you from the ceiling in this 12th century church, which is grade I-listed due to having the finest collection of medieval stained glass windows in the city. The most famous window, dating from around 1410, depicts the Prick of Conscience - a popular Middle English poem. Free.

All Saints Pavement, 32-37 Coppergate, YO1 9NR. Daily 9AM-7PM. Best viewed from the outside, from where you can admire its unusual octagonal tower. All Saints is also the civic church of various city guilds and the garrison church of the Royal Dragoon Guards. Free.

Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, 70 Goodramgate, YO1 7LF (Enter via an unassuming gated archway opposite Tesco Express. Wheelchair access via Petergate next to Poundland, +44 1904 613 451. M-Sa 11AM-3:30PM. Peaceful and atmospheric grade I-listed 12th century church that you won't find unless you're looking for it. The wooden box pews and stone altar are once-common rarities from an early period in church history. Free.

Holy Trinity, Micklegate, Micklegate, YO1 6LE, +44 1904 593 608. M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa Su 9AM-4PM. Founded prior to 1066, this is the only pre-Reformation monastic building in York that is in use today. The wooden beams supporting the roof are breathtaking, and there is a small interactive exhibition about those medieval monks and their priory, making use of touchscreens and 3D imagery. Free.

St Helen Stonegate, 5 St Helen's Square, YO1 8QN, +44 1904 636 512. Daily dawn-dusk. A largely 15th century building, but built on a site important in Roman times and possibly founded as early as the 8th century, this is now a quiet refuge from the city's bustle. It also serves as an atmospheric and intimate concert venue. Free.

St Martin-le-Grand, 13 Coney Street, YO1 9QL, +44 1904 636 512. Daily 9AM-5PM. Named for Martin of Tours, the bulk of the church dates from the 15th century, and what was the Great West Window depicts 13 moments from the saint's life. The building suffered heavy fire damage during an air raid of 1942, but fortunately much was restored, including some perky grinning gargoyles and a very attractive 17th century clock which adorns the façade. Free.

St Olave, 8 Marygate Lane, YO30 7BJ. Daily dawn-dusk. Believed to be the oldest church dedication to Olaf, patron saint of Norway, it once lay in the shadows of St Mary's Abbey and is still within the abbey grounds. In the English Civil War, it formed part of York's defences during the Parliamentarians' siege of the city. Today, the churchyard is a green oasis, and St Olave's maintains its links with Scandinavia. Free.

The Bar Convent, 17 Blossom Street, YO24 1AQ, +44 1904 643 248. M-Sa 10AM-5PM. Founded in the 17th century, when Catholics were widely persecuted in England, the convent is still home to a community of nuns, members of the Congregation of Jesus. In a small interactive museum, you can discover the brave sisters' remarkable story, from their underground origins hidden in plain sight of the authorities, right through to their survival under the bombs of the Luftwaffe. There is also an on-site café and 'secret' garden, as well as B&B-style accommodation. Adult £5, child £2, concession £4.

For other nearby attractions, see North York Moors and North Yorkshire.

• Beningbrough Hall, Beningbrough, YO30 1DD (8miles north of city centre off the A19 - follow brown signs. Free parking. No convenient public transport access, +44 1904 472 027. Jun-Aug daily 11:30AM-4PM (garden 10:30AM-5PM), Sept Oct Tu-Su, Nov-Mar Sa Su same hours. 18th century mansion in Italianate Baroque style, now managed by the National Trust. It is the red-brick creation of John Bourchier, who was inspired by the Grand Tour of Europe he took as a 20 year-old. Inside, it's all gilt and ornate white plaster, with an ever-changing rotation of over 100 period portraits on permanent loan from the National Portrait Gallery in London, while outside the gardens are rich, extensive and diverse. Eclectic too are the attractions on offer: Beningbrough is no staid stately home, with dogs welcome in the gardens and children well catered for by heaps of activities throughout the year, bicycle hire and several themed walking routes with such intriguing titles as 'Top ten trees of interest'. A restaurant, shop and adventure playground complete the package. Mar-Oct: adult £14.40, child £7.20, Apr-May/Nov-Feb: adult £8, child £4. NT members free.
• Cold War Bunker, Monument Close, YO24 4HT (off B1224 Acomb Road, 1 mile (1.6 km) west of city centre. Park on Acomb Road or at Carlton Tavern. Bus: 1, +44 1904 797 935. Apr-Oct W-Su 10AM-6PM, last tour 5PM, Nov-Mar Sa Su 10AM-4PM, last tour 3PM. From the 1960s to the 1990s, behind blast-proof doors, sat volunteers of the Royal Observer Corps, waiting to log nuclear bomb explosions in the region and monitor radioactive fallout. Fortunately they had a quiet few decades at the office. It is now English Heritage's most modern property, and also one of its spookiest. Visit only by guided tour, which takes an hour and includes a film and thorough radiation decontamination. Adult £8.30, child £5, concession £7.50, EH member free.
• Goddards House, 27 Tadcaster Road YO24 1GG (1¾ miles (2.7 km) south-west of centre. Bus: 4, 12, 13, 840, 843, ZAP, +44 1904 771 930. April-Oct: W-Su 10:30AM-5PM, mid Nov- mid Dec: Th-Su 10:30AM-4PM. The family home of Noel Goddard Terry, of the Terry's chocolate company. Built in 1927 in Arts & Crafts style, but mostly furnished in Georgian, parts of the house are open to the public to offer glimpses of what the Terrys' family life would have been like, but some of the building is a regional office of the National Trust. On the other hand, the typically English gardens can be visited in their entirety, and you can hunt down birds, bees and butterflies like a true twenties gent. Adult £7.40, child £3.70, NT member free.
• Holgate Windmill, Windmill Rise, YO26 4TX (1½ miles (2.4 km) west of centre. Park on Acomb Road (YO24 4AE) or at Carlton Tavern (YO24 4HA). Bus: 1, 5, 5A, P+R Turquoise. Mill open for tours on irregular weekends 11AM-4PM, very frequently in summer, but seldom in winter. Mill shop every Sa 10AM-noon. Full calendar here. One of York's more unusual sights is this 18th century windmill, unique in Britain for having five sails, which sits rather conspicuously in the middle - literally - of a very ordinary residential street. After falling into disuse in the 1930s, the mill was painstakingly restored to working condition by volunteers between 2001 and 2012. On open days, you can see the sails moving, then go inside the mill and understand how the power of wind is harnessed to turn the millstone and grind wheat and spelt into flour. The same volunteers are on hand to answer your questions and sell you some of their freshly-ground flour! Adult £3, child (5-18 years) £1.
• Murton Park, Murton Lane, Murton, YO19 5UF (4miles east of centre, just outside ring road (Grimston Bar). Bus: 747 from York station to Murton village - limited service, see timetable here, +44 1904 489 966. Farming museum: Easter-October daily 10:30AM-4:30PM. Living history: school holidays daily, same hours. DVLR: Su, bank holidays, same hours. Three attractions in one:
  The Yorkshire Museum of Farming takes visitors through a typical year on the farm, and charts the industry's development from the 1800s to the 1960s, with farming equipment and lovable animals to meet too. Explore reconstructions of a dairy parlour, blacksmith's forge and veterinary surgery which features equipment from James Herriot's famous clinic in Thirsk. Special focus is on an indoor exhibition about the Women's Land Army, who helped keep Britain fed during two world wars, and paved the way for postwar gender equality. Afterwards, take a walk along the nature trail to discover the rich diversity of wildlife that lives on farmland.The Danelaw Centre will make you thankful for central heating
  The Danelaw Centre for Living History presents a number of authentically-recreated rural dwellings from Yorkshire's past, from Iron Age, Saxon/Viking villages and a Roman fort, to a Tudor homestead and wartime farm. As it is used as an outdoor history classroom during term time, access to the centre for the general public is limited to school holidays, and if you want to make the most of the 'living history' aspects (reenactors, stories from long ago, hands-on activities, weapons training etc), you'll need some children with you. The range of cool stuff for them to do will make you wish you were a kid again. To find exactly which activities are happening on which days see the site's events page.
  The Derwent Valley Light Railway is the half-mile remnant of a line which once linked York to Selby. Nowadays, you can enjoy unlimited - if admittedly short - diesel-hauled rides from Murton Park's cute little station. And if you're still put out at not being able to join your little Vikings in defending their village from attack, you can console yourself by learning to be a train driver 'for a fiver', with a practical lesson from one of the DVLR experts. Once you've learnt the ropes, you can drive your loco the length of the track and back - sorry, kids, you have to be 18 or over. Adult £7.50, child/concession £6, includes audio guide and all living history activities (when available) and unlimited access for one year. Locomotive driving experience (adult only): £5.
• Yorkshire Air Museum, Halifax Way, Elvington, YO41 4AU (7½ miles (12 km) south-east of city centre on B1228. Bus: 36, X36 (M-Sa), 18a (Su - limited service). Read times and details here, +44 1904 608 595. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. The former site of RAF Elvington (a WWII bomber command station and base for the Free French Air Force) has been converted into a large open-air museum. In addition to over 60 historic aircraft and vehicles, many original elements of the RAF base - such as the air traffic control tower, hangars and an officers' mess - remain as testament to the sacrifices of airmen and women in all conflict. It also hosts the only Allied Air Forces memorial in Europe. Dogs on leads welcome. On-site NAAFI-style canteen. Information brochures in five European languages available. Adult £12, child 5-15 years £5, under 5 free, concession £9.

Beningbrough Hall, Beningbrough, YO30 1DD (8miles north of city centre off the A19 - follow brown signs. Free parking. No convenient public transport access, +44 1904 472 027. Jun-Aug daily 11:30AM-4PM (garden 10:30AM-5PM), Sept Oct Tu-Su, Nov-Mar Sa Su same hours. 18th century mansion in Italianate Baroque style, now managed by the National Trust. It is the red-brick creation of John Bourchier, who was inspired by the Grand Tour of Europe he took as a 20 year-old. Inside, it's all gilt and ornate white plaster, with an ever-changing rotation of over 100 period portraits on permanent loan from the National Portrait Gallery in [[London]], while outside the gardens are rich, extensive and diverse. Eclectic too are the attractions on offer: Beningbrough is no staid stately home, with dogs welcome in the gardens and children well catered for by heaps of activities throughout the year, bicycle hire and several themed walking routes with such intriguing titles as 'Top ten trees of interest'. A restaurant, shop and adventure playground complete the package. Mar-Oct: adult £14.40, child £7.20, Apr-May/Nov-Feb: adult £8, child £4. NT members free.

Cold War Bunker, Monument Close, YO24 4HT (off B1224 Acomb Road, 1 mile (1.6 km) west of city centre. Park on Acomb Road or at Carlton Tavern. Bus: 1, +44 1904 797 935. Apr-Oct W-Su 10AM-6PM, last tour 5PM, Nov-Mar Sa Su 10AM-4PM, last tour 3PM. From the 1960s to the 1990s, behind blast-proof doors, sat volunteers of the Royal Observer Corps, waiting to log nuclear bomb explosions in the region and monitor radioactive fallout. Fortunately they had a quiet few decades at the office. It is now English Heritage's most modern property, and also one of its spookiest. Visit only by guided tour, which takes an hour and includes a film and thorough radiation decontamination. Adult £8.30, child £5, concession £7.50, EH member free.

Goddards House, 27 Tadcaster Road YO24 1GG (1¾ miles (2.7 km) south-west of centre. Bus: 4, 12, 13, 840, 843, ZAP, +44 1904 771 930. April-Oct: W-Su 10:30AM-5PM, mid Nov- mid Dec: Th-Su 10:30AM-4PM. The family home of Noel Goddard Terry, of the Terry's chocolate company. Built in 1927 in Arts & Crafts style, but mostly furnished in Georgian, parts of the house are open to the public to offer glimpses of what the Terrys' family life would have been like, but some of the building is a regional office of the National Trust. On the other hand, the typically English gardens can be visited in their entirety, and you can hunt down birds, bees and butterflies like a true twenties gent. Adult £7.40, child £3.70, NT member free.

Holgate Windmill, Windmill Rise, YO26 4TX (1½ miles (2.4 km) west of centre. Park on Acomb Road (YO24 4AE) or at Carlton Tavern (YO24 4HA). Bus: 1, 5, 5A, P+R Turquoise. Mill open for tours on irregular weekends 11AM-4PM, very frequently in summer, but seldom in winter. Mill shop every Sa 10AM-noon. Full calendar here. One of York's more unusual sights is this 18th century windmill, unique in Britain for having five sails, which sits rather conspicuously in the middle - literally - of a very ordinary residential street. After falling into disuse in the 1930s, the mill was painstakingly restored to working condition by volunteers between 2001 and 2012. On open days, you can see the sails moving, then go inside the mill and understand how the power of wind is harnessed to turn the millstone and grind wheat and spelt into flour. The same volunteers are on hand to answer your questions and sell you some of their freshly-ground flour! Adult £3, child (5-18 years) £1.

Murton Park, Murton Lane, Murton, YO19 5UF (4miles east of centre, just outside ring road (Grimston Bar). Bus: 747 from York station to Murton village - limited service, see timetable here, +44 1904 489 966. Farming museum: Easter-October daily 10:30AM-4:30PM. Living history: school holidays daily, same hours. DVLR: Su, bank holidays, same hours. Three attractions in one:
The Yorkshire Museum of Farming takes visitors through a typical year on the farm, and charts the industry's development from the 1800s to the 1960s, with farming equipment and lovable animals to meet too. Explore reconstructions of a dairy parlour, blacksmith's forge and veterinary surgery which features equipment from James Herriot's famous clinic in Thirsk. Special focus is on an indoor exhibition about the Women's Land Army, who helped keep Britain fed during two world wars, and paved the way for postwar gender equality. Afterwards, take a walk along the nature trail to discover the rich diversity of wildlife that lives on farmland.
The Danelaw Centre for Living History presents a number of authentically-recreated rural dwellings from Yorkshire's past, from Iron Age, Saxon/Viking villages and a Roman fort, to a Tudor homestead and wartime farm. As it is used as an outdoor history classroom during term time, access to the centre for the general public is limited to school holidays, and if you want to make the most of the 'living history' aspects (reenactors, stories from long ago, hands-on activities, weapons training etc), you'll need some children with you. The range of cool stuff for them to do will make you wish you were a kid again. To find exactly which activities are happening on which days see the site's events page.
The Derwent Valley Light Railway is the half-mile remnant of a line which once linked York to Selby. Nowadays, you can enjoy unlimited - if admittedly short - diesel-hauled rides from Murton Park's cute little station. And if you're still put out at not being able to join your little Vikings in defending their village from attack, you can console yourself by learning to be a train driver 'for a fiver', with a practical lesson from one of the DVLR experts. Once you've learnt the ropes, you can drive your loco the length of the track and back - sorry, kids, you have to be 18 or over. Adult £7.50, child/concession £6, includes audio guide and all living history activities (when available) and unlimited access for one year. Locomotive driving experience (adult only): £5.

Yorkshire Air Museum, Halifax Way, Elvington, YO41 4AU (7½ miles (12 km) south-east of city centre on B1228. Bus: 36, X36 (M-Sa), 18a (Su - limited service). Read times and details here, +44 1904 608 595. Daily Apr-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Mar 10AM-4PM. The former site of RAF Elvington (a [[World War II in Europe|WWII]] bomber command station and base for the Free French Air Force) has been converted into a large open-air museum. In addition to over 60 historic aircraft and vehicles, many original elements of the RAF base - such as the air traffic control tower, hangars and an officers' mess - remain as testament to the sacrifices of airmen and women in all conflict. It also hosts the only Allied Air Forces memorial in Europe. Dogs on leads welcome. On-site NAAFI-style canteen. Information brochures in five European languages available. Adult £12, child 5-15 years £5, under 5 free, concession £9.

Navigate to: Tours and trips, Theatres, Cinemas, Events

• GR8escape, 4a Colliergate, YO1 8BP, +44 7897 122 834. Daily, pre-booked time slot. No guaranteed entry if you turn up without a reservation. Email via online contact form. Your team is put in one of three themed rooms (Spy School, NYPD, Ministry of Wizards), and you have 60 minutes to solve a series of puzzles and codes in order to escape. Teams from 2 to 6 players, ages 8 years and up with accompanying adult. M-F £48-£78, Sa Su £54-£88. Prices are per team and vary according to the number of players.
• Horse racing, Knavesmire Road, YO23 1EX (1 mile (1.6 km) south of the city centre. Bus: 197 shuttle operates between railway station and course on race days, +44 1904 620 911. Regular flat-racing events April-Oct, though the big fixture is Ebor Races in late August. York has been going to the races since Roman times, and the current site, in use since the early 18th century, is one of England's largest horse racing venues. Racegoers to the County Stand must adhere to a formal dresscode. Outside that, dressing up smart is not required, but does add to the sense of occasion. £5-£300, depending on race and desired seats.
• Jorvik DIG, St Saviour's Church, St Saviourgate, YO1 8NN, +44 1904 615 505. Daily 10AM-5PM, last admission 4PM. Hands-on experience for children, who are briefed and then let loose on fake archaeology pits to turn up what they can. The 'synthetic soil' means germaphobe parents can relax and wonder why they've been charged an entry fee to sit and watch. After the dig, the kids can handle real finds discovered on actual York Archaeological Trust digs. Adult £7, child/concession £6.50. Combo ticket with Jorvik Centre: adult £15.50, concession £13, child £12. Booking recommended.
• Rowntree Park, Terry Avenue, YO23 1JQ (Walk: follow the New Walk along the Ouse for about 1 mile (1.6 km) from town, then access via the Millennium Bridge. Bus: 11, 26, +44 1904 553 392. M-F 8AM-dusk, Sa Su 9AM-dusk. Named for the Rowntree company, which gifted the park to the city, and dedicated to company employees lost during the First World War, this is a 30-acre green flag oasis next to the Ouse. Facilities include tennis and basketball courts, a skate park, children's playground and café. Use the Millennium Bridge to cross over the river and grab something cold from the Two Hoots. "ice cream boat" , which is moored on the opposite bank on fine afternoons. Free.
• York Brewery, 12 Toft Green, YO1 6JT, +44 1904 621 162. Tours Tu-Su 12:30PM, 2PM, 3:30PM, 5PM. The brewery was founded in 1996 and is now part of Mitchell's of Lancaster, producing a range of ales. The tour takes about 40 min, showing you the whole brewing process and includes four ⅓ pint tasters. They also have a bar area where you can try their beers without the tour, and their beers are widely available across the city. Taxi home rather than drive yourself? Yes, Joseph Hansom, inventor of the Hansom cab was born in this building. Adult £8, concession £6, child under 14 years £4.
• York Dungeon, 12 Clifford Street, YO1 9RD. Daily, mostly 10AM-5PM, with periodic late night adult-only events. Knock-about version of horrible history, suitable for ages 8+. 75 minute tour with storytelling and a very liberal interpretation of historical events that will keep you laughing and screaming. Part of The Dungeons international franchise, run by Merlin Entertainments. Walkup prices: adult/child from £17; online prices: adult from £13, child from £12 with timed entry. Merlin Pass holders free.
• York Maze, Elvington Lane, YO19 5LT (5 miles (8 km) east of city centre on the B1228. Bus: 36, X36 (M-Sa), 18a (Su - limited service). Read times and details here., +44 1904 607 341. 13 Jul-2 Sep 2019: daily 10AM-6:30PM, last admission 4:30PM. The largest 'maize maze' in Europe. Each year is different; the 2018 maze was shaped like two giant Jurassic Park dinosaurs, but the 2019 design is being kept under wraps. There are numerous other activities, such as mini-mazes for children, quadbiking, games such as crazy golf, and funfair-style fun like pig racing (seriously), stage shows and rides. Grill restaurant and café on-site. Be prepared for an assault of corny puns about how 'a-maize-ing' everything is. Adult £16, senior/child £15, under 3 years free. 50% off all prices for disabled visitors and their carers. £1 discount when bought online in advance.

  * Hallowscream, +44 1904 607 341. 11 Oct-2 Nov, entry by prebooked time slot from 6:30PM. In autumn, things get gory at the York Maze: five night mazes stalked by insane scientists and bloodthirsty monsters, plus scary sideshows and seasonal food and drink. Wrap up warm, wear suitable footwear and prepare to get wet - regardless of whether it rains. £20-£42, depending on date and type of ticket. Add £8 for bus return ticket. Tickets by online reservation only. Aged 14 and over only, under 16s must be accompanied by an adult.

• York's Chocolate Story, King's Square, YO1 7LD, +44 1904 527 765. Daily 10AM-4PM (start time of last tour). Email via online contact form. A guided tour telling you all about York's historic role in the confectionery industry. Find out about the origins of chocolate and the city's big name brands, hear testimonies of the people employed by local factories, watch chocolate-making demos and taste some of the good stuff yourself. As a bonus, you can make your own chocolate lolly (full chocolatier workshops can be arranged upon appointment). There is a café and chocolate shop at the end of the visit. Adult £12.95, child 4-15 years £10.50, concession £11.95, child under 4 years free.

GR8escape, 4a Colliergate, YO1 8BP, +44 7897 122 834. Daily, pre-booked time slot. No guaranteed entry if you turn up without a reservation. Email via online contact form. Your team is put in one of three themed rooms (Spy School, NYPD, Ministry of Wizards), and you have 60 minutes to solve a series of puzzles and codes in order to escape. Teams from 2 to 6 players, ages 8 years and up with accompanying adult. M-F £48-£78, Sa Su £54-£88. Prices are per team and vary according to the number of players.

Horse racing, Knavesmire Road, YO23 1EX (1 mile (1.6 km) south of the city centre. Bus: 197 shuttle operates between railway station and course on race days, +44 1904 620 911. Regular flat-racing events April-Oct, though the big fixture is Ebor Races in late August. York has been going to the races since Roman times, and the current site, in use since the early 18th century, is one of England's largest horse racing venues. Racegoers to the County Stand must adhere to a formal dresscode. Outside that, dressing up smart is not required, but does add to the sense of occasion. £5-£300, depending on race and desired seats.

Jorvik DIG, St Saviour's Church, St Saviourgate, YO1 8NN, +44 1904 615 505. Daily 10AM-5PM, last admission 4PM. Hands-on experience for children, who are briefed and then let loose on fake archaeology pits to turn up what they can. The 'synthetic soil' means germaphobe parents can relax and wonder why they've been charged an entry fee to sit and watch. After the dig, the kids can handle real finds discovered on actual York Archaeological Trust digs. Adult £7, child/concession £6.50. Combo ticket with Jorvik Centre: adult £15.50, concession £13, child £12. Booking recommended.

Rowntree Park, Terry Avenue, YO23 1JQ (Walk: follow the New Walk along the Ouse for about 1 mile (1.6 km) from town, then access via the Millennium Bridge. Bus: 11, 26, +44 1904 553 392. M-F 8AM-dusk, Sa Su 9AM-dusk. Named for the Rowntree company, which gifted the park to the city, and dedicated to company employees lost during the First World War, this is a 30-acre green flag oasis next to the Ouse. Facilities include tennis and basketball courts, a skate park, children's playground and café. Use the Millennium Bridge to cross over the river and grab something cold from the Two Hoots. "ice cream boat" , which is moored on the opposite bank on fine afternoons. Free.

York Brewery, 12 Toft Green, YO1 6JT, +44 1904 621 162. Tours Tu-Su 12:30PM, 2PM, 3:30PM, 5PM. The brewery was founded in 1996 and is now part of Mitchell's of Lancaster, producing a range of ales. The tour takes about 40 min, showing you the whole brewing process and includes four ⅓ pint tasters. They also have a bar area where you can try their beers without the tour, and their beers are widely available across the city. Taxi home rather than drive yourself? Yes, Joseph Hansom, inventor of the Hansom cab was born in this building. Adult £8, concession £6, child under 14 years £4.

York Dungeon, 12 Clifford Street, YO1 9RD. Daily, mostly 10AM-5PM, with periodic late night adult-only events. Knock-about version of horrible history, suitable for ages 8+. 75 minute tour with storytelling and a very liberal interpretation of historical events that will keep you laughing and screaming. Part of The Dungeons international franchise, run by Merlin Entertainments. Walkup prices: adult/child from £17; online prices: adult from £13, child from £12 with timed entry. Merlin Pass holders free.

York Maze, Elvington Lane, YO19 5LT (5 miles (8 km) east of city centre on the B1228. Bus: 36, X36 (M-Sa), 18a (Su - limited service). Read times and details here., +44 1904 607 341. 13 Jul-2 Sep 2019: daily 10AM-6:30PM, last admission 4:30PM. The largest 'maize maze' in Europe. Each year is different; the 2018 maze was shaped like two giant Jurassic Park dinosaurs, but the 2019 design is being kept under wraps. There are numerous other activities, such as mini-mazes for children, quadbiking, games such as crazy golf, and funfair-style fun like pig racing (seriously), stage shows and rides. Grill restaurant and café on-site. Be prepared for an assault of corny puns about how 'a-maize-ing' everything is. Adult £16, senior/child £15, under 3 years free. 50% off all prices for disabled visitors and their carers. £1 discount when bought online in advance.

* Hallowscream, +44 1904 607 341. 11 Oct-2 Nov, entry by prebooked time slot from 6:30PM. In autumn, things get gory at the York Maze: five night mazes stalked by insane scientists and bloodthirsty monsters, plus scary sideshows and seasonal food and drink. Wrap up warm, wear suitable footwear and prepare to get wet - regardless of whether it rains. £20-£42, depending on date and type of ticket. Add £8 for bus return ticket. Tickets by online reservation only. Aged 14 and over only, under 16s must be accompanied by an adult.

York's Chocolate Story, King's Square, YO1 7LD, +44 1904 527 765. Daily 10AM-4PM (start time of last tour). Email via online contact form. A guided tour telling you all about York's historic role in the confectionery industry. Find out about the origins of chocolate and the city's big name brands, hear testimonies of the people employed by local factories, watch chocolate-making demos and taste some of the good stuff yourself. As a bonus, you can make your own chocolate lolly (full chocolatier workshops can be arranged upon appointment). There is a café and chocolate shop at the end of the visit. Adult £12.95, child 4-15 years £10.50, concession £11.95, child under 4 years free.

• City walls walk, +44 1904 551 550. Daily 8AM-dusk. Enjoy the great views, and try to imagine yourself in the role of city watch keeping a lookout for approaching enemy armies. The walls are medieval, built on Roman foundations, though the Station Road bridges are modern. The total walk is around 2mi: if short on time or energy, the best section is along the western perimeter from Bootham Bar. to Monk Bar., close to the Minster. There never was a wall to the north-east, as the swamps along the River Foss were sufficient defence, so this is the least interesting section, where you have to walk along busy Foss Islands Road. No dogs, except guide dogs, are allowed on the walls. You can download a map and guide of the walls courtesy of the Friends of York Walls here. Free, except the Micklegate Bar, and Monk Bar towers, which are small museums.
• Lucky Cat Trail, +44 1904 541 122. Cats have been considered good-luck omens in York for centuries, and cat statues were once placed on buildings throughout the city to ward off rats, mice, and the plague they were thought to carry. The original statues have now all weathered away or been taken down, but the idea was resurrected by a local architect in 1979. Since then, more and more buildings have added sculptures of cats clinging to walls or perched on balconies. Today, you can follow a trail around the old town in an attempt to find 22 cats, and spot plenty of landmarks while you're doing so. Download the trail map for free.
• Walking tours: history, culture and ghost walks. Wonderful. There are many walking tours and ghost walks that run throughout the year. The volunteer-led walking tours tend to focus on history and culture, and take place throughout the daytime, while the ghost walks normally start from 6PM onwards and invariably include an element of street theatre. Tours last for one or two hours. Just look for the posters and billboards posted throughout the city centre for details and the meeting point for that evening, or else look through Visit York's directory. While most tours are in English, Descubre York offers tours in Spanish and Portuguese, while Yorktour offers French, German, Italian and Turkish tours. History and culture tours free, ghost walks around £5.
  • The Original Ghost Walk of York, Depart the King's Arms pub, Ouse Bridge, +44 1904 764 222. Nightly 8PM. Email via online contact form. No gimmicks, tricks or jumpscares, just experienced storytellers doing what they do best, helped by the atmospheric background of this ancient city and a very real gruesome history to draw from. Adult £5, child/concession £4; no need to book.
• Bus tours are an easy way to discover the city, especially if your time or mobility is limited, though they do come at a much higher price than the public bus fares. York is not especially big, so most travellers could easily cover everything on the tour under their own steam.
  • City Sightseeing York, +44 1904 633 990. Late Feb-early Nov daily 9AM-5PM, every 15-30 min. Double-decker open-top bus tour of the city, with commentary in nine languages, plus a kids' commentary and bonus Yorkshire dialect narration. Operates a continuous hop-on/hop-off service in a circuit; the full loop takes 60 minutes. Adult £14.50, child £7.50, concession £11.50, under 2s free, valid for 24 hr from activation. Offers discounts to some attractions en route. Bus tour free with York Pass.
  • The Ghost Bus Tours, Station Road, YO24 1AA (Departs from bus stop RE next to the Principal Hotel, 100 m from the railway station, +44 844 567 8666 (premium). Tu-Th 7:30PM; F 7:30PM, 9PM; Sa 6PM, 7:30PM, 9PM; Su 7:30PM. Approximately 75-minute comedic horror tour of the city in a black routemaster bus, with onboard actors and technical wizardry creating an experience you're unlikely to forget. Adult £15, Child £10, Concession £12.
• Road train. Daily 11AM-4:15PM. Departs every 30 mins from the museum on the hour and half-past, from the Minster at quarter-past and quarter-to. A fun way to travel between the centre of York and the Railway Museum. Adult £3 one-way, child £2 one-way.
• Go cruising on the River Ouse:

  * City Cruises, Lendal Bridge, YO1 7DP / King's Staith, YO1 9SN (check where your cruise departs from), +44 1904 628 324. Daytime city cruise: Feb-Nov daily, regular departures 10:30AM-3PM, takes 1 hr. Early evening cruise: Mar-Nov nightly, departs 6PM (Mar, Oct-Nov) / 7:30PM (Apr-Sep), takes 1 hr. Floodlit evening cruise: May-Sep nightly, departs 9:15PM, takes 1 hr 10 min. Various boat trips along the Ouse. The three listed here are the most popular, but there are many other cruises throughout the year, including lunchtime and dinner cruises, Halloween ghost tours and Santa specials; check website. Daytime: adult £10, child 5-15 years £5.50, concession £8.50. Early evening: adult £11, child £6, concession £9.50. Floodlit evening: adult £14, child/concession £13. Online discounts available.

* Motor boats for hire, King's Staith, YO1 9SN, +44 1904 628 324. 16 Feb-3 Nov 9:45AM-3PM. 8-seater red motor launches for you to explore the Ouse under your own steam, river conditions permitting. Full training and lifejackets are provided. The person hiring the boat must be an adult and be in possession of valid ID. From £20 for half an hour, from £30 for one hour + £40 refundable deposit. Online discounts available.

* Rowing boats for hire, +44 7742 669 107. A skiff is a traditional wooden rowing boat from the Thames in London. You will receive coaching if needed, then get free reign to take either Amelia or Belle Époque for a leisurely trip along the Ouse. £50 for 4 hr, £80 for 1 day. £100 refundable deposit.

City walls walk, +44 1904 551 550. Daily 8AM-dusk. Enjoy the great views, and try to imagine yourself in the role of city watch keeping a lookout for approaching enemy armies. The walls are medieval, built on Roman foundations, though the Station Road bridges are modern. The total walk is around 2mi: if short on time or energy, the best section is along the western perimeter from Bootham Bar. to Monk Bar., close to the Minster. There never was a wall to the north-east, as the swamps along the River Foss were sufficient defence, so this is the least interesting section, where you have to walk along busy Foss Islands Road. No dogs, except guide dogs, are allowed on the walls. You can download a map and guide of the walls courtesy of the Friends of York Walls here. Free, except the Micklegate Bar, and Monk Bar towers, which are small museums.

Lucky Cat Trail, +44 1904 541 122. Cats have been considered good-luck omens in York for centuries, and cat statues were once placed on buildings throughout the city to ward off rats, mice, and the plague they were thought to carry. The original statues have now all weathered away or been taken down, but the idea was resurrected by a local architect in 1979. Since then, more and more buildings have added sculptures of cats clinging to walls or perched on balconies. Today, you can follow a trail around the old town in an attempt to find 22 cats, and spot plenty of landmarks while you're doing so. Download the trail map for free.

Walking tours: history, culture and ghost walks. Wonderful. There are many walking tours and ghost walks that run throughout the year. The volunteer-led walking tours tend to focus on history and culture, and take place throughout the daytime, while the ghost walks normally start from 6PM onwards and invariably include an element of street theatre. Tours last for one or two hours. Just look for the posters and billboards posted throughout the city centre for details and the meeting point for that evening, or else look through Visit York's directory. While most tours are in English, Descubre York offers tours in Spanish and Portuguese, while Yorktour offers French, German, Italian and Turkish tours. History and culture tours free, ghost walks around £5.

• The Original Ghost Walk of York, Depart the King's Arms pub, Ouse Bridge, +44 1904 764 222. Nightly 8PM. Email via online contact form. No gimmicks, tricks or jumpscares, just experienced storytellers doing what they do best, helped by the atmospheric background of this ancient city and a very real gruesome history to draw from. Adult £5, child/concession £4; no need to book.

Walking tours: history, culture and ghost walks. Wonderful. There are many walking tours and ghost walks that run throughout the year. The volunteer-led walking tours tend to focus on history and culture, and take place throughout the daytime, while the ghost walks normally start from 6PM onwards and invariably include an element of street theatre. Tours last for one or two hours. Just look for the posters and billboards posted throughout the city centre for details and the meeting point for that evening, or else look through Visit York's directory. While most tours are in English, Descubre York offers tours in Spanish and Portuguese, while Yorktour offers French, German, Italian and Turkish tours. History and culture tours free, ghost walks around £5.

• The Original Ghost Walk of York, Depart the King's Arms pub, Ouse Bridge, +44 1904 764 222. Nightly 8PM. Email via online contact form. No gimmicks, tricks or jumpscares, just experienced storytellers doing what they do best, helped by the atmospheric background of this ancient city and a very real gruesome history to draw from. Adult £5, child/concession £4; no need to book.

Bus tours are an easy way to discover the city, especially if your time or mobility is limited, though they do come at a much higher price than the public bus fares. York is not especially big, so most travellers could easily cover everything on the tour under their own steam.

• City Sightseeing York, +44 1904 633 990. Late Feb-early Nov daily 9AM-5PM, every 15-30 min. Double-decker open-top bus tour of the city, with commentary in nine languages, plus a kids' commentary and bonus Yorkshire dialect narration. Operates a continuous hop-on/hop-off service in a circuit; the full loop takes 60 minutes. Adult £14.50, child £7.50, concession £11.50, under 2s free, valid for 24 hr from activation. Offers discounts to some attractions en route. Bus tour free with York Pass.
• The Ghost Bus Tours, Station Road, YO24 1AA (Departs from bus stop RE next to the Principal Hotel, 100 m from the railway station, +44 844 567 8666 (premium). Tu-Th 7:30PM; F 7:30PM, 9PM; Sa 6PM, 7:30PM, 9PM; Su 7:30PM. Approximately 75-minute comedic horror tour of the city in a black routemaster bus, with onboard actors and technical wizardry creating an experience you're unlikely to forget. Adult £15, Child £10, Concession £12.

Bus tours are an easy way to discover the city, especially if your time or mobility is limited, though they do come at a much higher price than the public bus fares. York is not especially big, so most travellers could easily cover everything on the tour under their own steam.

• City Sightseeing York, +44 1904 633 990. Late Feb-early Nov daily 9AM-5PM, every 15-30 min. Double-decker open-top bus tour of the city, with commentary in nine languages, plus a kids' commentary and bonus Yorkshire dialect narration. Operates a continuous hop-on/hop-off service in a circuit; the full loop takes 60 minutes. Adult £14.50, child £7.50, concession £11.50, under 2s free, valid for 24 hr from activation. Offers discounts to some attractions en route. Bus tour free with York Pass.
• The Ghost Bus Tours, Station Road, YO24 1AA (Departs from bus stop RE next to the Principal Hotel, 100 m from the railway station, +44 844 567 8666 (premium). Tu-Th 7:30PM; F 7:30PM, 9PM; Sa 6PM, 7:30PM, 9PM; Su 7:30PM. Approximately 75-minute comedic horror tour of the city in a black routemaster bus, with onboard actors and technical wizardry creating an experience you're unlikely to forget. Adult £15, Child £10, Concession £12.

Road train. Daily 11AM-4:15PM. Departs every 30 mins from the museum on the hour and half-past, from the Minster at quarter-past and quarter-to. A fun way to travel between the centre of York and the Railway Museum. Adult £3 one-way, child £2 one-way.

Go cruising on the River Ouse:

* City Cruises, Lendal Bridge, YO1 7DP / King's Staith, YO1 9SN (check where your cruise departs from), +44 1904 628 324. Daytime city cruise: Feb-Nov daily, regular departures 10:30AM-3PM, takes 1 hr. Early evening cruise: Mar-Nov nightly, departs 6PM (Mar, Oct-Nov) / 7:30PM (Apr-Sep), takes 1 hr. Floodlit evening cruise: May-Sep nightly, departs 9:15PM, takes 1 hr 10 min. Various boat trips along the Ouse. The three listed here are the most popular, but there are many other cruises throughout the year, including lunchtime and dinner cruises, Halloween ghost tours and Santa specials; check website. Daytime: adult £10, child 5-15 years £5.50, concession £8.50. Early evening: adult £11, child £6, concession £9.50. Floodlit evening: adult £14, child/concession £13. Online discounts available.

• Grand Opera House, Clifford and Cumberland Street, YO1 9SW, +44 844 871 3024 (premium). Box office M-Sa noon-4PM, show days until 15 mins before start of performance. First built as a corn exchange in 1868, it was converted to full-time theatre use in 1902. The auditorium is indeed very grand, if a little faded. Despite the name, the Grand hosts a wide variety of plays, musicals, gigs and dance, although opera and ballet performances are rather scarce.
• National Centre for Early Music, St Margaret's Church, Walmgate, YO1 9TL, +44 1904 658 338. Box office M-F 9AM-5PM. Early music is European music from the medieval, Renaissance and Baroque periods, although the centre has broadened its study to encompass all pre-modern music from cultures around the world. In addition to its two festivals (see below), the NCEM has an extremely lively and diverse annual programme of concerts, seminars and workshops, mostly held at its base in a 12th-century deconsecrated church. Prices vary per concert; under 35s and full time students of any age receive very generous discounts.
• Theatre Royal, St Leonard's Place, YO1 7HD, +44 1904 623 568. Box office M 10AM-5PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-8PM. York's home of 'serious' theatre, dating from 1744 and built on the site of St Leonard's Hospital, whose remains can still be seen in the present building. The company puts on its own plays and also receives touring productions.
• York Barbican, Paragon Street, YO10 4AH, +44 203 356 5441. Box office M-F 10AM-2PM, show nights from 5PM. Email via online contact form. A medium-sized venue for touring music and comedy gigs, orchestral performances, opera, ballet, and tribute acts for past pop legends. One of two venues for the Laugh Out Loud comedy club.

Grand Opera House, Clifford and Cumberland Street, YO1 9SW, +44 844 871 3024 (premium). Box office M-Sa noon-4PM, show days until 15 mins before start of performance. First built as a corn exchange in 1868, it was converted to full-time theatre use in 1902. The auditorium is indeed very grand, if a little faded. Despite the name, the Grand hosts a wide variety of plays, musicals, gigs and dance, although opera and ballet performances are rather scarce.

National Centre for Early Music, St Margaret's Church, Walmgate, YO1 9TL, +44 1904 658 338. Box office M-F 9AM-5PM. Early music is European music from the medieval, Renaissance and Baroque periods, although the centre has broadened its study to encompass all pre-modern music from cultures around the world. In addition to its two festivals (see [[#YEMF|below]]), the NCEM has an extremely lively and diverse annual programme of concerts, seminars and workshops, mostly held at its base in a 12th-century deconsecrated church. Prices vary per concert; under 35s and full time students of any age receive very generous discounts.

Theatre Royal, St Leonard's Place, YO1 7HD, +44 1904 623 568. Box office M 10AM-5PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-8PM. York's home of 'serious' theatre, dating from 1744 and built on the site of St Leonard's Hospital, whose remains can still be seen in the present building. The company puts on its own plays and also receives touring productions.

York Barbican, Paragon Street, YO10 4AH, +44 203 356 5441. Box office M-F 10AM-2PM, show nights from 5PM. Email via online contact form. A medium-sized venue for touring music and comedy gigs, orchestral performances, opera, ballet, and tribute acts for past pop legends. One of two venues for the Laugh Out Loud comedy club.

All cinemas are open daily from around 9:30AM until midnight or just after.

• City Screen, 13-17 Coney Street, YO1 9QL, +44 871 902 5747 (premium rate). Peak time is Tu-F after 5PM, Sa Su, bank holidays all day. Discount day is M. A modern cinema which shows a mix of mainstream and arthouse films. It has a bar/cafe with a fantastic balcony overlooking the River Ouse. Adult £10.40 (£12.20 peak), child £6.90 (£7.70 peak), concession £9.40 (£11.20 peak), Mondays £7.70 all patrons, autism-friendly £3.
• Everyman York, Blossom Street, YO24 1AJ (10-minute walk south-west of the city centre on Blossom Street. Bus: 1, 4, 5, 10, 13 and the 3 from Askham Bar Park & Ride. Very limited parking., +44 872 436 9060 (premium rate). Email via online contact form. Inside a distinctive art deco building, this cinema is held close to the hearts of York residents. Prices vary per film and showing time, but around £11-£13 adult, £10-£12 concession.
• Vue Cinema, Clifton Moor Centre, Stirling Road, YO30 4XY (On the A1237 ring road, 3 miles (5 km) north-west of town. Bus: 6, +44 345 308 4620. The city's largest multiplex with 12 screens. £4.99 p.p.

City Screen, 13-17 Coney Street, YO1 9QL, +44 871 902 5747 (premium rate). Peak time is Tu-F after 5PM, Sa Su, bank holidays all day. Discount day is M. A modern cinema which shows a mix of mainstream and arthouse films. It has a bar/cafe with a fantastic balcony overlooking the River Ouse. Adult £10.40 (£12.20 peak), child £6.90 (£7.70 peak), concession £9.40 (£11.20 peak), Mondays £7.70 all patrons, autism-friendly £3.

Everyman York, Blossom Street, YO24 1AJ (10-minute walk south-west of the city centre on Blossom Street. Bus: 1, 4, 5, 10, 13 and the 3 from Askham Bar Park & Ride. Very limited parking., +44 872 436 9060 (premium rate). Email via online contact form. Inside a distinctive art deco building, this cinema is held close to the hearts of York residents. Prices vary per film and showing time, but around £11-£13 adult, £10-£12 concession.

Vue Cinema, Clifton Moor Centre, Stirling Road, YO30 4XY (On the A1237 ring road, 3 miles (5 km) north-west of town. Bus: 6, +44 345 308 4620. The city's largest multiplex with 12 screens. £4.99 p.p.

There is a very full series of events in York. The most important are listed below, January to December; events taking place in the latter half of the current year are listed near the bottom.

• Jorvik Viking Festival, +44 1904 615 505. A city-wide celebration of all things Norse; the largest Viking festival in Europe. There are 'living' Viking encampments, guided walks and talks. This festival holds lots of appeal for children, with dressing up, have-a-go activities and combat performances on the cards, and it's all backed up with the serious educational purpose of the Jorvik Centre. Prices vary; lots of free events.

  *At other times of the year, scandiphile visitors should check out the York Anglo-Scandinavian Society, which put on regular talks, activities and film screenings with a Nordic slant, mostly at the University of York's Norwegian Study Centre.

• York Literature Festival. Takes place annually for a week and a half in March. This city-wide festival promotes the arts in York, with an emphasis on literature, spoken word and poetry. It also features music, comedy, cinema and theatre. Prices vary; some free events.
• York Chocolate Festival, Parliament Street / Shambles Market, +44 1904 635 149. A city-wide celebration of the chocolate industry with a chocolate market, artisan chocolatiers and attractions which share a piece of York's chocolate history.
• Shakespeare's Rose Theatre, Tower Street, YO1 9WD, +44 1904 623 568. £11-£66. Europe's first pop-up Elizabethan theatre showcases four well-known Shakespeare plays over the summer. The 2019 season will stage Hamlet, Henry V, The Tempest and Twelfth Night. Young children will enjoy a special show, Billy Shakes, Wonderboy! Around the theatre is an Elizabethan garden and a recreation of 16th century village, complete with stalls, jesters, minstrels and regional food and drink.
• York Early Music Festival, +44 1904 658 338. World class series of concerts, lectures and workshops focusing on pre-18th century music which takes place at venues across the city. Each year has a theme; 2020's is called Method & Madness. Prices vary per concert.
• York Festival of Traditional Dance. Email via online contact form. A rich variety of traditional (or Morris) dance sides from all over the country join in a celebration of the diversity of ritual dancing. The Saturday begins with a colourful dance procession from the St Helens Square, to Parliament Street, before the teams separate to dance on site, in Exhibition Square, King’s Square, Minster Piazza, St Helens Square, and St Sampson's Square throughout the day, before a final grand show in front of dignitaries. The Sunday dancing is less formal, taking place in the squares over lunchtime.
• York Mystery Plays. £10-£15 per ticketed performance. A medieval tradition to showcase stories from the Bible through the medium of colourful, humorous and entertaining plays, revived in the 20th century. The performances can be accompanied by traditional bands of musicians called "waits". They don't run every year and are acted on floats carried around the city; the most recent was 2018.
• York Food and Drink Festival, Parliament Street / Shambles Market / St Sampson's Square. The food element majors on Yorkshire food, while the drinks programme has a worldwide and wine-orientated theme. The range of events is very wide, with demonstrations, tastings, recipe hunts, markets and dinners everyday. Big 'slow food', Fairtrade and other worthy projects allied with lots of hands-on cooking for kids at the Food Factory. Or, if you want to get exploring the city's culinary prowess, pick up a Taste Trail booklet for £5 which pays for all the samples you'll be gorging on. Markets and demos free. Other events ticketed at various prices.

  * York Beer & Cider Festival, The Knavesmire (A steady 25 min walk from York Station; also served by an hourly festival bus service opposite the station.. W 5PM-11PM, Th-Sa noon-11PM. Yorkshire's biggest beer festival, run by the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) serving up over 500 beers (including 300 which are produced in Yorkshire), 100 ciders and perries, plus a large foreign beer bar, wine and soft drinks. There is live music and an extensive range of world foods from numerous caterers and other stalls. Seating is in a huge beer garden or under massive marquees if it’s wet. Children welcome (accompanied) until 8PM. W £7, Th £8, F Sa £9.50. Prices include £3 deposit for glass, refundable upon return of glass. CAMRA members £2 discount on these prices.

• York Mediale, +44 7495 999 549. A biennial festival providing a showcase for leading international digital artists and the best emerging media art talent. The event presents a citywide celebration of exhibitions, installations, live performances, dance, music and workshops. Prices vary per event.
• York Christmas Festival. The streets of York come alive in the run up to Christmas. Carol singers and buskers flock to perform to thousands of festive shoppers. The St Nicholas Fair has market stalls and wooden chalets on Parliament Street, St Sampson's Square and Coppergate, specialising in gifts, crafts, and local yuletide foods. Elsewhere, the Barley Hall presents a special insight into how people celebrated Christmas in the Middle Ages, while St William's College houses an arts and crafts market for fine handmade items.

* York Early Music Christmas Festival, St Margaret's Church, Walmgate, YO1 9TL and other venues, +44 1904 658 338. The Christmas sister festival of the summer event presents a series of concerts with internationally-renowned artists performing seasonal music from the 18th century and earlier. Various prices; under 35s get ridiculously generous discounts.

* Yorkshire's Winter Wonderland, York Designer Outlet, St. Nicholas Avenue, Fulford, YO19 4TA. Skate: daily 9:30AM-9:30PM. Funfair: until 15 Dec M-F 3PM-8PM, Sa Su 11AM-8PM, from 16 Dec daily 11AM-8PM. Santa: daily 9:30AM-5PM. All closed 25 Dec. Email via online contact form. The main attraction is The Ice Factor, which is the North's largest seasonal ice rink with a giant Christmas tree as centrepiece. Surrounding the rink is an excellent little vintage funfair, log cabin stalls, and of course Santa's Grotto. Skate: adult £10.95, child/concession £9.95 for 1 hr. Skate hire included. Santa: £4.50, including wrapped gift.

Jorvik Viking Festival, +44 1904 615 505. A city-wide celebration of all things Norse; the largest Viking festival in Europe. There are 'living' Viking encampments, guided walks and talks. This festival holds lots of appeal for children, with dressing up, have-a-go activities and combat performances on the cards, and it's all backed up with the serious educational purpose of the Jorvik Centre. Prices vary; lots of free events.

*At other times of the year, scandiphile visitors should check out the York Anglo-Scandinavian Society, which put on regular talks, activities and film screenings with a Nordic slant, mostly at the University of York's Norwegian Study Centre.

York Literature Festival. Takes place annually for a week and a half in March. This city-wide festival promotes the arts in York, with an emphasis on literature, spoken word and poetry. It also features music, comedy, cinema and theatre. Prices vary; some free events.

York Chocolate Festival, Parliament Street / Shambles Market, +44 1904 635 149. A city-wide celebration of the chocolate industry with a chocolate market, artisan chocolatiers and attractions which share a piece of York's chocolate history.

Shakespeare's Rose Theatre, Tower Street, YO1 9WD, +44 1904 623 568. £11-£66. Europe's first pop-up Elizabethan theatre showcases four well-known Shakespeare plays over the summer. The 2019 season will stage Hamlet, Henry V, The Tempest and Twelfth Night. Young children will enjoy a special show, Billy Shakes, Wonderboy! Around the theatre is an Elizabethan garden and a recreation of 16th century village, complete with stalls, jesters, minstrels and regional food and drink.

York Early Music Festival, +44 1904 658 338. World class series of concerts, lectures and workshops focusing on pre-18th century music which takes place at venues across the city. Each year has a theme; 2020's is called Method & Madness. Prices vary per concert.

York Festival of Traditional Dance. Email via online contact form. A rich variety of traditional (or Morris) dance sides from all over the country join in a celebration of the diversity of ritual dancing. The Saturday begins with a colourful dance procession from the St Helens Square, to Parliament Street, before the teams separate to dance on site, in Exhibition Square, King’s Square, Minster Piazza, St Helens Square, and St Sampson's Square throughout the day, before a final grand show in front of dignitaries. The Sunday dancing is less formal, taking place in the squares over lunchtime.

York Mystery Plays. £10-£15 per ticketed performance. A medieval tradition to showcase stories from the Bible through the medium of colourful, humorous and entertaining plays, revived in the 20th century. The performances can be accompanied by traditional bands of musicians called "waits". They don't run every year and are acted on floats carried around the city; the most recent was 2018.

York Food and Drink Festival, Parliament Street / Shambles Market / St Sampson's Square. The food element majors on Yorkshire food, while the drinks programme has a worldwide and wine-orientated theme. The range of events is very wide, with demonstrations, tastings, recipe hunts, markets and dinners everyday. Big 'slow food', Fairtrade and other worthy projects allied with lots of hands-on cooking for kids at the Food Factory. Or, if you want to get exploring the city's culinary prowess, pick up a Taste Trail booklet for £5 which pays for all the samples you'll be gorging on. Markets and demos free. Other events ticketed at various prices.

York Mediale, +44 7495 999 549. A biennial festival providing a showcase for leading international digital artists and the best emerging media art talent. The event presents a citywide celebration of exhibitions, installations, live performances, dance, music and workshops. Prices vary per event.

York Christmas Festival. The streets of York come alive in the run up to Christmas. Carol singers and buskers flock to perform to thousands of festive shoppers. The St Nicholas Fair has market stalls and wooden chalets on Parliament Street, St Sampson's Square and Coppergate, specialising in gifts, crafts, and local yuletide foods. Elsewhere, the Barley Hall presents a special insight into how people celebrated Christmas in the Middle Ages, while St William's College houses an arts and crafts market for fine handmade items.

York comes highly recommended for its unique shops and boutiques. There's the usual range of high street stores, but York is also a great place for independent shops, especially if you're looking for gifts, high-end English and Italian fashion, books, or - it has to be said - tourist tat! Shops in York change from year to year, but the beautiful old-fashioned shop fronts, both medieval wood and Victorian red brick, haven't changed much since they were first built. The extensive pedestrianisation and interesting architecture make shopping and spending a pleasure for even the most miserly Yorkshireman.

• Coney Street. Along with Parliament Street, this is the place in the city centre to head for the chain high street shops you can find all over the UK: Boots, H&M, River Island, Zara et al.
• Fossgate. Assorted specialist fashion shops selling bowler hats, smart gentlemen's outfits, and clothing and accessories specifically for tall women. Walmgate., which it leads onto, has a number of homeware stores, a cycling shop and a modelling shop.
• Gillygate. Several interesting shops to fill your home with mementos of your time in York, plus an independent bookshop, cheesemonger and retro gaming store.
• High Petergate and Low Petergate. A hub of small fashion and jewellery stores with a mix of high-end brand names and independents. Those with a sweet tooth should check out the Fudge Kitchen. At the point where the two Petergates meet is Stonegate., where you'll find several fashionable independent retailers and the original House of Trembling Madness, which stocks 900 bottled beers.
• Parliament Street. One of very few wide and straight roads in the centre is this very attractive tree-lined boulevard mostly home to larger chain stores such as Disney, M&S and New Look. Most high street banks and building societies are also represented here. The row continues north-west onto the much narrower Davygate., which has high street fashion giants such as GAP, Pandora and Superdry.

  * Browns, 21 Davygate, YO1 8QT, +44 1904 611 166. M-Sa 9AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A good quality family-run department store that has been trading in York for over 100 years, stocks most of the global fashion brands, and features large beauty, furniture, and handbag departments.

  * York Farmers' Market, Parliament Street, YO1 8SG, +44 1904 550 099. First Friday of the month 9AM-4PM. An excellent place to buy and discuss food, drink and crafts with local producers. Meat, eggs, organic veg, cheese, pies, fudge, honey, pottery, wool - it's all here.

• Shambles. A medieval shopping street with overhanging timber-framed buildings, which was once a street of butchers. This is easily the most touristy street in York and is mostly devoted to places to eat and gift shops. The most notable of the latter are a loose-leaf tea emporium, a popular artisan bakery, a sweet little chinaware shop and a crowded store dedicated to selling Harry Potter memorabilia.

* Shambles Market, 5 Silver Street, YO1 8RY (Between Shambles and Parliament Street. Daily 7AM-5PM. A permanent outdoor market with more than 85 stalls of which some sell fresh local produce, some the ubiquitous world street food, others clothes and accessories, and others still arts, crafts, fabrics and ceramics.

• York Designer Outlet, St Nicholas Ave, Fulford (On the A64 southern ring road, 3½ miles (5.6 km) south of the city. Bus: 7, 415, +44 1904 682 700. M-F 10AM-8PM, Sa 9AM-8PM, Su 10AM-6PM. Of particular interest to followers of fashion, this indoor shopping centre contains 120 clothes stores from many top-name brands such as Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren and Ted Baker.

Coney Street. Along with Parliament Street, this is the place in the city centre to head for the chain high street shops you can find all over the UK: Boots, H&M, River Island, Zara et al.

Fossgate. Assorted specialist fashion shops selling bowler hats, smart gentlemen's outfits, and clothing and accessories specifically for tall women. Walmgate., which it leads onto, has a number of homeware stores, a cycling shop and a modelling shop.

Gillygate. Several interesting shops to fill your home with mementos of your time in York, plus an independent bookshop, cheesemonger and retro gaming store.

High Petergate and Low Petergate. A hub of small fashion and jewellery stores with a mix of high-end brand names and independents. Those with a sweet tooth should check out the Fudge Kitchen. At the point where the two Petergates meet is Stonegate., where you'll find several fashionable independent retailers and the original House of Trembling Madness, which stocks 900 bottled beers.

Parliament Street. One of very few wide and straight roads in the centre is this very attractive tree-lined boulevard mostly home to larger chain stores such as Disney, M&S and New Look. Most high street banks and building societies are also represented here. The row continues north-west onto the much narrower Davygate., which has high street fashion giants such as GAP, Pandora and Superdry.

* Browns, 21 Davygate, YO1 8QT, +44 1904 611 166. M-Sa 9AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A good quality family-run department store that has been trading in York for over 100 years, stocks most of the global fashion brands, and features large beauty, furniture, and handbag departments.

* York Farmers' Market, Parliament Street, YO1 8SG, +44 1904 550 099. First Friday of the month 9AM-4PM. An excellent place to buy and discuss food, drink and crafts with local producers. Meat, eggs, organic veg, cheese, pies, fudge, honey, pottery, wool - it's all here.

Shambles. A medieval shopping street with overhanging timber-framed buildings, which was once a street of butchers. This is easily the most touristy street in York and is mostly devoted to places to eat and gift shops. The most notable of the latter are a loose-leaf tea emporium, a popular artisan bakery, a sweet little chinaware shop and a crowded store dedicated to selling Harry Potter memorabilia.

York Designer Outlet, St Nicholas Ave, Fulford (On the A64 southern ring road, 3½ miles (5.6 km) south of the city. Bus: 7, 415, +44 1904 682 700. M-F 10AM-8PM, Sa 9AM-8PM, Su 10AM-6PM. Of particular interest to followers of fashion, this indoor shopping centre contains 120 clothes stores from many top-name brands such as Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren and Ted Baker.

Navigate to: Budget, Mid-range and Splurge options, and places for afternoon tea

As capital of Yorkshire, the county's cuisine is front and centre on many of York's menus. This is honest and rustic fare, in which generous portions are the norm, and large tasting platters are common. Yorkshire puddings, pies, local game, lamb and beef are all prized by restaurateurs, as are the local cheeses: wensleydale from the Dales, shepherd's purse blues from north of Thirsk and St Helen's Farm hard goat's cheese, produced in the Vale of York. The fish and crab in restaurants is often landed at East Coast ports such as Grimsby and Whitby, while the county's Norse connections are maintained by the serving of Yorkshire-made gravadlax.

The city itself has two famous products: ham and chocolate.

York ham has been produced within the city walls for hundreds of years, and far-fetched local legend states that the first hams were smoked with sawdust generated by the building of the Minster. Made with the meat of the large white pig, in taste the ham is mild, salty, smoky and often breaded, and in appearance a delicate pink. When served hot, it is traditionally accompanied by Madeira sauce. Disaster struck in the mid-2000s, when the last curer in town went out of business, and for 10 years there was no ham produced in York. However, in 2016, Appleton's Butchers opened on Lendal, and York-cured hams are available once more.

While other northern towns busied themselves with boring but useful things like steel and cotton, 19th century York took a sweeter path. Rowntree's created Aero bars, Fruit Pastilles, Kit-Kat, Smarties and Yorkie bars, among other internationally-known sweets. Although bought out by Nestlé in the 1980s with most products rebranded, the original factory has been maintained and expanded, and the Rowntree's brand lives on with Fruit Pastilles and newer products brought out since the acquisition such as Rowntree's Randoms. The other large York company, Terry's (of Chocolate Orange fame) has had a less rosy time: upon acquisition by Modelez, production was moved overseas. But alongside Nestlé's investment, a number of small independent chocolatiers have appeared in York: Choc Affair, Guppy's, Monk Bar and the York Cocoa House.

As diverse as York's restaurant scene is, there are some generalities that apply to many of the city's addresses. No matter the cuisine on offer, they have a sense of place and like working with local ingredients; even if you never eat a Yorkshire pudding, you'll be hard pressed to find a good café or restaurant not cooking food produced in the county. In addition to the aforementioned platters, many restaurants seem to been gripped by an obsession with "tasting menus": multi-course extravaganzas of small dishes, often with suggested drink pairings at a hefty premium. While this can be good for sampling variety, it's not so fun for cash- or time-poor travellers to be roped into spending hours eating and drinking expensively. On the other hand, at many places, you can get high quality food experiences on the cheap if you plum for a weekday lunch or early evening meal, rather than waiting for dinner.

• House of the Trembling Madness (Lendal), 14 Lendal, YO1 8AA, +44 1904 848 998. Daily 10AM-11:30PM. Email via online contact form. An ale house which promotes the pairing of good beer with quality food. The menu is bursting with regional produce, from bread baked in the city, to platters of locally-smoked meats and rich, savoury pies. Schnitzel, salchichón, and other continental comfort foods complete the picture. The same company has a much smaller venue on Stonegate. Mains £9-£10.
• Hungry Horace, 39 Layerthorpe, YO31 7UZ, +44 1904 622 629. M-F 7:30AM-1PM, Sa 8AM-noon, Su closed. Classic working men's cafe for breakfast or brunch. Greasy and tatty but the food is of a very high standard. The staff are very friendly and may refer to you as love or flower. Mains from £4.
• Ippuku Tea House, 15 Blake Street, YO1 8QJ, +44 1904 671 311. M-F noon-9PM, Sa 11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-8PM. Email via online contact form. Authentic Japanese restaurant with vegan and gluten-free options, and an enormous tea menu to accompany your meal. Mains £6-£11.
• Millers Fish & Chips, 55 The Village, Haxby, YO32 2JE (4½ miles (7.2 km) north of town up Haxby Road. Bus: 13, +44 1904 769 169. Takeaway: M 4:30PM-10PM, Tu-Th 11:30AM-2PM/4:30PM-10PM, F Sa 11:30AM-2PM/4PM-10PM. Restaurant: M 4:30PM-8PM, Tu-Sa 11:30AM-2PM/4:30PM-8PM, Su closed. Email via online contact form. Award-winning family-run chippy with takeaway and restaurant. As good a plate's worth as you'll get in York, so it's worth the trip. Gluten free and halal options available. Cod and chips £6.70 (takeaway), £10 (restaurant).
• Spring Espresso, 45 Fossgate, YO1 9TF, +44 1904 627 730. Daily 8AM-6PM. Email via online contact form. Snazzy artisan sandwiches and paninis (think York ham, goat's cheese, pastrami, hummus...) for lunch, and a selection of toasts, pancakes, and pastries for all day breakfast or brunch. Excellent fresh coffee, made Seattle-style. Another identical café is at 31 Lendal. Food items £3-£8.
• St Crux Church, Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate, YO1 8BL, +44 1904 621 756. Daily 10AM-4PM. Part jumble sale for second-hand books, part cafeteria selling good cheap homemade sandwiches, cakes and hot drinks in a tiny deconsecrated church - eat on the grass outside. £3 for bacon butty and tea.
• The Nook, 3a Castlegate, YO1 9RN, +44 1904 627 122. M-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM. Specialists of international street food, brought indoors for a cosy, convivial atmosphere. Each of their specialities is from a different culinary tradition: Cambodian beef lok lak, Indian tandoori chicken, Lebanese fattoush, Cajun king prawns. Mains £7-£9.
• The Taylor Made Kitchen, Shambles Market, Silver Street, YO1 7LA, +44 7702 120 504. Daily noon-5PM. Email via online contact form. Excellent fast food wagon serving burgers, burritos, and dirty fries in epic portions using fresh local ingredients. Meals £6-£7.
• Ye Olde Pie and Sausage Shoppe, 45 Shambles, YO1 7LX, +44 7752 606 050. Daily 9AM-4PM. Pick up some truly divine pork pies in a plethora of flavours, both traditional and exotic, to munch on outside. The husband-and-wife duo also dry-cure their own bacon on-site, and make a selection of sausages, some of which, in a pleasant surprise, are more French than British. £2-£8.

House of the Trembling Madness (Lendal), 14 Lendal, YO1 8AA, +44 1904 848 998. Daily 10AM-11:30PM. Email via online contact form. An ale house which promotes the pairing of good beer with quality food. The menu is bursting with regional produce, from bread baked in the city, to platters of locally-smoked meats and rich, savoury pies. Schnitzel, salchichón, and other continental comfort foods complete the picture. The same company has a much smaller venue [[#Madness Stonegate|on Stonegate]]. Mains £9-£10.

Hungry Horace, 39 Layerthorpe, YO31 7UZ, +44 1904 622 629. M-F 7:30AM-1PM, Sa 8AM-noon, Su closed. Classic working men's cafe for breakfast or brunch. Greasy and tatty but the food is of a very high standard. The staff are very friendly and may refer to you as love or flower. Mains from £4.

Ippuku Tea House, 15 Blake Street, YO1 8QJ, +44 1904 671 311. M-F noon-9PM, Sa 11AM-9PM, Su 11AM-8PM. Email via online contact form. Authentic Japanese restaurant with vegan and gluten-free options, and an enormous tea menu to accompany your meal. Mains £6-£11.

Millers Fish & Chips, 55 The Village, Haxby, YO32 2JE (4½ miles (7.2 km) north of town up Haxby Road. Bus: 13, +44 1904 769 169. Takeaway: M 4:30PM-10PM, Tu-Th 11:30AM-2PM/4:30PM-10PM, F Sa 11:30AM-2PM/4PM-10PM. Restaurant: M 4:30PM-8PM, Tu-Sa 11:30AM-2PM/4:30PM-8PM, Su closed. Email via online contact form. Award-winning family-run chippy with takeaway and restaurant. As good a plate's worth as you'll get in York, so it's worth the trip. Gluten free and halal options available. Cod and chips £6.70 (takeaway), £10 (restaurant).

Spring Espresso, 45 Fossgate, YO1 9TF, +44 1904 627 730. Daily 8AM-6PM. Email via online contact form. Snazzy artisan sandwiches and paninis (think York ham, goat's cheese, pastrami, hummus...) for lunch, and a selection of toasts, pancakes, and pastries for all day breakfast or brunch. Excellent fresh coffee, made [[Seattle]]-style. Another identical café is at 31 Lendal. Food items £3-£8.

St Crux Church, Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate, YO1 8BL, +44 1904 621 756. Daily 10AM-4PM. Part jumble sale for second-hand books, part cafeteria selling good cheap homemade sandwiches, cakes and hot drinks in a tiny deconsecrated church - eat on the grass outside. £3 for bacon butty and tea.

The Nook, 3a Castlegate, YO1 9RN, +44 1904 627 122. M-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM. Specialists of international street food, brought indoors for a cosy, convivial atmosphere. Each of their specialities is from a different culinary tradition: Cambodian beef lok lak, Indian tandoori chicken, Lebanese fattoush, Cajun king prawns. Mains £7-£9.

The Taylor Made Kitchen, Shambles Market, Silver Street, YO1 7LA, +44 7702 120 504. Daily noon-5PM. Email via online contact form. Excellent fast food wagon serving burgers, burritos, and dirty fries in epic portions using fresh local ingredients. Meals £6-£7.

Ye Olde Pie and Sausage Shoppe, 45 Shambles, YO1 7LX, +44 7752 606 050. Daily 9AM-4PM. Pick up some truly divine pork pies in a plethora of flavours, both traditional and exotic, to munch on outside. The husband-and-wife duo also dry-cure their own bacon on-site, and make a selection of sausages, some of which, in a pleasant surprise, are more French than British. £2-£8.

• Ambiente, 31 Fossgate, YO1 9TA, +44 1904 638 252. Daily 11AM-10PM. Tapas restaurant with a semi-industrial interior design channelling the modern Madrileño look. On the menu is a cool mix of classic favourites such as albóndigas and patatas bravas, alongside innovative creations like the Yorkshire morcilla. They have a second, much smaller, restaurant at 14 Goodramgate. £4-£7 per tapa, or three for £11.95 weekday afternoons.
• ASK Italian, The Grand Assembly Rooms, Blake Street, YO1 8QG, +44 1904 637 254. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F Sa 11:30AM-11PM. Come for the setting rather than the food (which is fine for a chain, just nothing special): 18th century marble-columned Palladian assembly rooms with 40-foot ceilings and plaster cherubs. Extremely busy at weekends and tourist periods. Mains £11-£15.
• Barbakan, 58 Walmgate, YO1 9TL, +44 1904 672 474. M 9AM-3PM, Tu-F 9AM-3PM/6PM-10PM, Sa 9AM-10PM, Su 10AM-9PM. Hearty Eastern European food given Western panache. The resulting roast meats, soups and pies are not a million miles away from English cuisine, but with an intriguing Polish or Hungarian twist. Lunch mains £7-£9, dinner mains £12-£18.
• The Chopping Block at Walmgate Ale House, 25 Walmgate, YO1 9TX, +44 1904 629 222. Tu 5PM-10:30PM, W-F noon-10:30PM, Sa 9:30AM-10:30PM, Su 9:30AM-9:30PM, M closed. Seasonal and locally-sourced food graces this modern British menu in a pleasant olde worlde environment. Lunch mains £7-£9, dinner mains £13-£17, set menu £15.50 for two courses, £17.95 for three courses.
• Café No.8 Bistro, 8 Gillygate, YO31 7EQ, +44 1904 653 074. M-F noon-10PM, Sa Su 9AM-10PM. Refined food which has Yorkshire in its soul: lamb from the Wolds, fish from the North Sea, cheese from Thirsk, and rhubarb and custard for pudding! Lunch mains £10-£12, dinner set menu £24.95 for two courses, £29.95 for three courses.
• Pizza Express, 17 Museum Street, YO1 7DJ, +44 1904 672 904. Daily 11:30AM-11PM. A chain which needs no introduction, but this one is worth a look for the setting - a spectacular 19th century gentlemen's club perched on the bank of the River Ouse. Summer evenings on the terraces are pleasant, and their toilets are marble temples of Victorian excess - it's worth eating there just for the chance to use a solid brass-and-marble urinal. Mains £10-£15.
• Skosh, 98 Micklegate, YO1 6JX, +44 1904 634 849. W-Sa noon-2PM / 5:30PM-10PM, Su noon-4:30PM. You choose a series of small dishes, and the staff are on hand to advise you on what order to eat them. Think of it as a tapas or meze place, but without the constraints of a single cuisine. The dishes themselves are ambitious, imaginative and memorable, with distinctly Japanese flavours and making excellent use of British produce. Reservation recommended. Awarded Michelin's bib gourmand in 2018. Dishes £3-£16. Count on 6-8 dishes to share between two.
• The Masons Arms, 6 Fishergate, YO10 4AB, +44 1904 541 479. M-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F Sa 11:30AM-midnight, Su noon-10:30PM. Email via online contact form. Quality pub grub favourites with daily specials for soup, homemade pie, local bangers and mash, and curry, plus separate steak and risotto menus. Mix things up a bit with a spicy lamb stew or a slow-roasted belly porchetta. Very limited choice for vegetarians. Mains £11-£17, Sunday roast £12.45 for one course, £14.95 for two courses, £15.95 for three courses.
• The Viceroy, 26 Monkgate, YO31 7PF, +44 1904 622 370. Daily 5:30PM-11PM (midnight Sa). Email via online contact form. Always busy even in early evening, this long-established Indian restaurant is a favourite of York residents who keep returning time after time for its excellent food and friendly atmosphere. As they say - when in Rome... Mains £9-£15.

Ambiente, 31 Fossgate, YO1 9TA, +44 1904 638 252. Daily 11AM-10PM. Tapas restaurant with a semi-industrial interior design channelling the modern [[Madrid|Madrileño]] look. On the menu is a cool mix of classic favourites such as albóndigas and patatas bravas, alongside innovative creations like the Yorkshire morcilla. They have a second, much smaller, restaurant at 14 Goodramgate. £4-£7 per tapa, or three for £11.95 weekday afternoons.

ASK Italian, The Grand Assembly Rooms, Blake Street, YO1 8QG, +44 1904 637 254. Su-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F Sa 11:30AM-11PM. Come for the setting rather than the food (which is fine for a chain, just nothing special): 18th century marble-columned Palladian assembly rooms with 40-foot ceilings and plaster cherubs. Extremely busy at weekends and tourist periods. Mains £11-£15.

Barbakan, 58 Walmgate, YO1 9TL, +44 1904 672 474. M 9AM-3PM, Tu-F 9AM-3PM/6PM-10PM, Sa 9AM-10PM, Su 10AM-9PM. Hearty Eastern European food given Western panache. The resulting roast meats, soups and pies are not a million miles away from English cuisine, but with an intriguing Polish or Hungarian twist. Lunch mains £7-£9, dinner mains £12-£18.

The Chopping Block at Walmgate Ale House, 25 Walmgate, YO1 9TX, +44 1904 629 222. Tu 5PM-10:30PM, W-F noon-10:30PM, Sa 9:30AM-10:30PM, Su 9:30AM-9:30PM, M closed. Seasonal and locally-sourced food graces this modern British menu in a pleasant olde worlde environment. Lunch mains £7-£9, dinner mains £13-£17, set menu £15.50 for two courses, £17.95 for three courses.

Café No.8 Bistro, 8 Gillygate, YO31 7EQ, +44 1904 653 074. M-F noon-10PM, Sa Su 9AM-10PM. Refined food which has Yorkshire in its soul: lamb from the Wolds, fish from the North Sea, cheese from Thirsk, and rhubarb and custard for pudding! Lunch mains £10-£12, dinner set menu £24.95 for two courses, £29.95 for three courses.

Pizza Express, 17 Museum Street, YO1 7DJ, +44 1904 672 904. Daily 11:30AM-11PM. A chain which needs no introduction, but this one is worth a look for the setting - a spectacular 19th century gentlemen's club perched on the bank of the River Ouse. Summer evenings on the terraces are pleasant, and their toilets are marble temples of Victorian excess - it's worth eating there just for the chance to use a solid brass-and-marble urinal. Mains £10-£15.

Skosh, 98 Micklegate, YO1 6JX, +44 1904 634 849. W-Sa noon-2PM / 5:30PM-10PM, Su noon-4:30PM. You choose a series of small dishes, and the staff are on hand to advise you on what order to eat them. Think of it as a tapas or meze place, but without the constraints of a single cuisine. The dishes themselves are ambitious, imaginative and memorable, with distinctly Japanese flavours and making excellent use of British produce. Reservation recommended. Awarded Michelin's bib gourmand in 2018. Dishes £3-£16. Count on 6-8 dishes to share between two.

The Masons Arms, 6 Fishergate, YO10 4AB, +44 1904 541 479. M-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F Sa 11:30AM-midnight, Su noon-10:30PM. Email via online contact form. Quality pub grub favourites with daily specials for soup, homemade pie, local bangers and mash, and curry, plus separate steak and risotto menus. Mix things up a bit with a spicy lamb stew or a slow-roasted belly porchetta. Very limited choice for vegetarians. Mains £11-£17, Sunday roast £12.45 for one course, £14.95 for two courses, £15.95 for three courses.

The Viceroy, 26 Monkgate, YO31 7PF, +44 1904 622 370. Daily 5:30PM-11PM (midnight Sa). Email via online contact form. Always busy even in early evening, this long-established Indian restaurant is a favourite of York residents who keep returning time after time for its excellent food and friendly atmosphere. As they say - when in Rome... Mains £9-£15.

• Arras, The Old Coach House, Peasholme Green, YO1 7PW, +44 1904 633 737. Tu 6PM-9:30PM, W-Sa noon-2PM / 6PM-9:30PM. Despite the name, the French influence on Arras's set menu is not overly pronounced. Instead, focus is on unloved ingredients that most chefs stay away from: offal, Brussels sprouts, eel; this could be a recipe for disaster, but somehow it works. The dishes are refined and flavoursome, and the service knowledgeable and personable. They save the best to last, in the form of a bumper British cheese board introduced by chef himself. Lunch £22 for two courses, £27 for three courses; dinner £38 for two courses, £49 for three courses, £60 for five courses, with wine pairing £100.
• Hudsons, Station Rise, YO1 6GD (within the Grand Hotel, +44 1904 894 580. W-Sa 6:30PM-9:30PM. Contemporary fine dining making the most of local and seasonal produce. A choice between and five- and nine-course tasting menus of smaller plates, nouvelle cuisine-style, with vegetarian options available for both menus. The food is certainly special, though as you might guess from the hotel's website, service can be lacking in attention to detail. Five courses (W, Th only) £50, with wine pairing £80; nine courses (nightly) £80, with wine pairing £130.
• Le Cochon Aveugle, 37 Walmgate, YO1 9TX, +44 1904 640 222. Dinner service W-Sa at 6PM, 7:30PM and 8:30PM, lunch Sa noon-1:30PM. Closed for half the week, limited sittings when it is open, no children allowed and a ruthless cancellation policy: "The Blind Pig" is like a parody of a stuffy and inflexible French restaurant. In this regard, the food completely subverts expectations: while based in the Gallic tradition and with an impressive cave à vin to match, it is not afraid to do its own thing and draw from diverse influences. Expect creative, bold and expressive dishes across a 4- or 8-course blind tasting menu (with the expectation that you, the diner, fill the role of pig). With room for only 20 covers, reservation is essential. 4 course lunch £55 (with wine pairing £100), 8 course dinner £70 W, Th, £85 F, Sa (with wine pairing £130 W, Th, £145 F, Sa).
• Melton's, 7 Scarcroft Road, YO23 1ND (1mile south of the city centre. Bus: 11, 26, +44 1904 634 341. W-Sa noon-1:45PM / Tu-Sa 5:30PM-9:30PM. Promoting fine dining without the formalities, and run by the York Food Festival's director, this is yet another place in town proving the worth of modern British gastronomy. Try the East Coast cod, or else the guinea fowl confit. Scrummy. Set menu. Lunch/early dinner £30 for two courses, £36 for three courses, dinner £36 for two courses, £46 for three courses. Prices include canapés, bread, filter coffee and petits fours. Five-course tasting menu £60, with cheese course £65, with wine pairing £100.
• The Ivy, 2 St Helen’s Square, YO1 8QP, +44 1904 403 888. M-Sa 8AM-12:30AM, Su 9AM-12:30AM. Set menu M-F 11:30AM-6:30PM. Email via online contact form. A national chain serving modern British and European cuisine. While there are no knock-out unique dishes on the large menu, the cooking is of extremely high quality and there are extensive vegetarian and vegan options. One speciality is their version of an English classic - shepherd's pie with slow-braised shoulder of lamb and cave-matured cheddar. Mains £14-£35, set menu 2 courses £16.95, 3 courses £21.
• The Judge's Lodging, 9 Lendal, YO1 8AQ, +44 1904 638 733. M-F 7:30AM-10AM / noon-10PM, Sa Su 8AM-10AM / noon-10PM. Fine cuisine in rococo splendour. Actually, most of the main dishes - a range of posh burgers, plus a nice collection of salads, platters, meat and fish dishes - belong firmly in the mid-range bracket, but it's the steak and the shellfish - and the drinks - that will lighten your pockets. Mains £11-£28.
• The Park, 4-5 St Peters Grove, YO30 6AQ (within Marmadukes Hotel, +44 1904 640 101. Four-course set menu sitting Tu-Th 7PM, F Sa 1PM, seven-course tasting menu sitting Tu-Sa 7PM. Seasonal and modern, with almost universal online acclaim, this is simplicity refined: each dish is composed of just three or four ingredients, yet the flavours are outstanding. The one slight annoyance is the £10 supplement for cheese, which feels a bit stingy. £48 for four courses, with wine pairing £80, £65 for seven courses, with wine pairing £115.
• The Rattle Owl, 104 Micklegate, YO1 6JX, +44 1904 658 658. Tu 6PM-9:30PM, W-Sa noon-3PM / 6PM-9:30PM, Su noon-4PM. Thoughtfully-crafted seasonal menu drawing from what's available locally. Each course has only five options, so you'd really hope the chef's knowledge of his cooking and attention to detail would be there, and on these counts the Rattle Owl aims high. Full marks, too, for the sympathetic restoration of their 17th century building and bonus points for the Roman archaeological remains in the wine cellar! Mains £17-£40, lunch grazing menu £4.75 per dish, Sunday lunch 2 courses £22, 3 courses £27.50.
• The Star Inn the City, Lendal Engine House, Museum Street, YO1 7DR, +44 1904 619 208. Daily 9:30AM-11PM. Dine on seasonal Yorkshire produce beside the Ouse within a warm velvet and tartan décor. Cook has a knack for making trad dishes look like intrepid new creations - or for overworking and needlessly 'cheffing up' old favourites, depending on your perspective. That said, the Star's rural sister restaurant has a Michelin star, so this is definitely one to watch. Mains £19-£35, breakfasts £4-£12, weekday afternoon set menu £19 for two courses, £24 for three courses.

Arras, The Old Coach House, Peasholme Green, YO1 7PW, +44 1904 633 737. Tu 6PM-9:30PM, W-Sa noon-2PM / 6PM-9:30PM. Despite the name, the French influence on Arras's set menu is not overly pronounced. Instead, focus is on unloved ingredients that most chefs stay away from: offal, Brussels sprouts, eel; this could be a recipe for disaster, but somehow it works. The dishes are refined and flavoursome, and the service knowledgeable and personable. They save the best to last, in the form of a bumper British cheese board introduced by chef himself. Lunch £22 for two courses, £27 for three courses; dinner £38 for two courses, £49 for three courses, £60 for five courses, with wine pairing £100.

Hudsons, Station Rise, YO1 6GD (within the Grand Hotel, +44 1904 894 580. W-Sa 6:30PM-9:30PM. Contemporary fine dining making the most of local and seasonal produce. A choice between and five- and nine-course tasting menus of smaller plates, nouvelle cuisine-style, with vegetarian options available for both menus. The food is certainly special, though as you might guess from the hotel's website, service can be lacking in attention to detail. Five courses (W, Th only) £50, with wine pairing £80; nine courses (nightly) £80, with wine pairing £130.

Le Cochon Aveugle, 37 Walmgate, YO1 9TX, +44 1904 640 222. Dinner service W-Sa at 6PM, 7:30PM and 8:30PM, lunch Sa noon-1:30PM. Closed for half the week, limited sittings when it is open, no children allowed and a ruthless cancellation policy: "The Blind Pig" is like a parody of a stuffy and inflexible French restaurant. In this regard, the food completely subverts expectations: while based in the Gallic tradition and with an impressive cave à vin to match, it is not afraid to do its own thing and draw from diverse influences. Expect creative, bold and expressive dishes across a 4- or 8-course blind tasting menu (with the expectation that you, the diner, fill the role of pig). With room for only 20 covers, reservation is essential. 4 course lunch £55 (with wine pairing £100), 8 course dinner £70 W, Th, £85 F, Sa (with wine pairing £130 W, Th, £145 F, Sa).

Melton's, 7 Scarcroft Road, YO23 1ND (1mile south of the city centre. Bus: 11, 26, +44 1904 634 341. W-Sa noon-1:45PM / Tu-Sa 5:30PM-9:30PM. Promoting fine dining without the formalities, and run by the York Food Festival's director, this is yet another place in town proving the worth of modern British gastronomy. Try the East Coast cod, or else the guinea fowl confit. Scrummy. Set menu. Lunch/early dinner £30 for two courses, £36 for three courses, dinner £36 for two courses, £46 for three courses. Prices include canapés, bread, filter coffee and petits fours. Five-course tasting menu £60, with cheese course £65, with wine pairing £100.

The Ivy, 2 St Helen’s Square, YO1 8QP, +44 1904 403 888. M-Sa 8AM-12:30AM, Su 9AM-12:30AM. Set menu M-F 11:30AM-6:30PM. Email via online contact form. A national chain serving modern British and European cuisine. While there are no knock-out unique dishes on the large menu, the cooking is of extremely high quality and there are extensive vegetarian and vegan options. One speciality is their version of an English classic - shepherd's pie with slow-braised shoulder of lamb and cave-matured cheddar. Mains £14-£35, set menu 2 courses £16.95, 3 courses £21.

The Judge's Lodging, 9 Lendal, YO1 8AQ, +44 1904 638 733. M-F 7:30AM-10AM / noon-10PM, Sa Su 8AM-10AM / noon-10PM. Fine cuisine in rococo splendour. Actually, most of the main dishes - a range of posh burgers, plus a nice collection of salads, platters, meat and fish dishes - belong firmly in the mid-range bracket, but it's the steak and the shellfish - and the drinks - that will lighten your pockets. Mains £11-£28.

The Park, 4-5 St Peters Grove, YO30 6AQ (within Marmadukes Hotel, +44 1904 640 101. Four-course set menu sitting Tu-Th 7PM, F Sa 1PM, seven-course tasting menu sitting Tu-Sa 7PM. Seasonal and modern, with almost universal online acclaim, this is simplicity refined: each dish is composed of just three or four ingredients, yet the flavours are outstanding. The one slight annoyance is the £10 supplement for cheese, which feels a bit stingy. £48 for four courses, with wine pairing £80, £65 for seven courses, with wine pairing £115.

The Rattle Owl, 104 Micklegate, YO1 6JX, +44 1904 658 658. Tu 6PM-9:30PM, W-Sa noon-3PM / 6PM-9:30PM, Su noon-4PM. Thoughtfully-crafted seasonal menu drawing from what's available locally. Each course has only five options, so you'd really hope the chef's knowledge of his cooking and attention to detail would be there, and on these counts the Rattle Owl aims high. Full marks, too, for the sympathetic restoration of their 17th century building and bonus points for the Roman archaeological remains in the wine cellar! Mains £17-£40, lunch grazing menu £4.75 per dish, Sunday lunch 2 courses £22, 3 courses £27.50.

The Star Inn the City, Lendal Engine House, Museum Street, YO1 7DR, +44 1904 619 208. Daily 9:30AM-11PM. Dine on seasonal Yorkshire produce beside the Ouse within a warm velvet and tartan décor. Cook has a knack for making trad dishes look like intrepid new creations - or for overworking and needlessly 'cheffing up' old favourites, depending on your perspective. That said, the Star's rural [[Helmsley#Star inn|sister restaurant]] has a Michelin star, so this is definitely one to watch. Mains £19-£35, breakfasts £4-£12, weekday afternoon set menu £19 for two courses, £24 for three courses.

York is known for its decadent afternoon teas: a pot of tea to a blend of your choice, served with dainty sandwiches with the crusts cut off, finger cakes and patisseries, and of course fruit scones with clotted cream and jam. Your food will arrive on a stacked metal stand, with three-tiered platters containing each course of the meal. To this can be added a glass of champagne or some other alcoholic beverage, for those who really want to indulge in luxury. If this sounds like a lot of food and drink, that's because it is; afternoon tea will typically replace lunch, and you may not feel like your dinner until much later on, if at all! The price of a full afternoon tea is fairly high; count on spending at least £20 per person, and add up to £10 more if you're having champagne too. Take into account that the venue itself is often as much a part of the experience as the tea, with Bettys, the Garden Room and the Countess of York arguably offering the most luxurious surroundings.

A less indulgent and cheaper option can be just to have a cream tea, that is jam-and-cream scones plus a pot of tea, which should cost no more than £10. Most cafés in York, though not listed here, will serve this, plus a selection of other traditional cakes.

• Bettys Tea Rooms, 6-8 St Helen's Square, YO1 8QP, +44 1904 659 142. Daily 9AM-9PM. World-famous for its nostalgic atmosphere and spectacular Swiss-Yorkshire patisserie-style catering. It is a 1930s-style tea room complete with palm trees, aproned waitresses and live pianist, and is best known for its afternoon teas but also serves breakfast and lunch/dinner. As Bettys is the tea room all the tourists want to visit, be prepared to queue outside at peak times or book well in advance. Alternatively, you can try the Little Bettys at 46 Stonegate, which doesn't get as busy. Afternoon teas £20-£28, breakfast £3-£12, lunch/dinner £6-£14.
• Countess of York, Leeman Road, YO26 4XJ (within the National Railway Museum, +44 1904 686 295. Tea served at noon, 2PM, 4PM. Railfans rejoice! You can get your afternoon tea fix in the NRM's opulently-restored train carriage, the Countess of York. There are a dozen blends of Harrogate tea to choose from, and a seasonal selection of sandwiches and cakes, with the highlight being traditional Yorkshire scones, vanilla cream and homemade jam. As capacity is constrained by the size of the carriage, it is recommended to book well in advance Traditional afternoon tea £25.50, with champagne £35.50.
• The Cake Shop and Tea House, 24 Fossgate, YO1 9TA, +44 1904 671 199. Tu-F 10AM-4PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Afternoon tea: 12:30PM-3PM. Email via online contact form. A slightly more economical afternoon tea that is certainly less refined than other options in the city, but is nonetheless still tasty, filling and satisfying. The advantages of going to a much smaller tea house like here is that you can be sure all the food is freshly made on-site, you don't need to make a reservation and you won't have to queue upon arrival. Disadvantages include some quirky house rules (no children under 10, no devices out at tables) and somewhat temperamental owners. Tea for two £35.
• The Garden Room, The Principal York, Station Road, YO24 1AA, +44 1904 688 677. Daily. Afternoon tea 1PM-5PM, twilight tea 5PM-8PM. A grand and comfortable lounge with armchairs and sofas, and views across the lawns to the Minster. Gluten free and vegan versions of afternoon tea are available when booked in advance, and cost the same as the traditional. The twilight tea includes the addition of a cocktail or mocktail. Traditional afternoon tea £23.50, incl. champagne £30.50, children £14.95, cream tea £7.50. Twilight tea M-F £21.95, Sa Su £25.
• The Grand Hotel, Station Rise, YO1 6GD, +44 1904 899 521. Daily noon-6PM (must be seated by 3:45PM). Take tea in the hotel's swish Rise restaurant, which offers views over the city walls. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free menus available. Afternoon tea 'by Hudsons' (i.e. in the Hudsons restaurant) is a more gastronomic, and far pricier, alternative. Grand afternoon tea £25.50, incl. sparkling wine £30.50, incl. gin and tonic £33.50, incl. champagne £34.50, children £17. Afternoon tea 'by Hudsons' £35, with champagne £50, with cheese £60.

Bettys Tea Rooms, 6-8 St Helen's Square, YO1 8QP, +44 1904 659 142. Daily 9AM-9PM. World-famous for its nostalgic atmosphere and spectacular Swiss-Yorkshire patisserie-style catering. It is a 1930s-style tea room complete with palm trees, aproned waitresses and live pianist, and is best known for its afternoon teas but also serves breakfast and lunch/dinner. As Bettys is the tea room all the tourists want to visit, be prepared to queue outside at peak times or book well in advance. Alternatively, you can try the Little Bettys at 46 Stonegate, which doesn't get as busy. Afternoon teas £20-£28, breakfast £3-£12, lunch/dinner £6-£14.

Countess of York, Leeman Road, YO26 4XJ (within the National Railway Museum, +44 1904 686 295. Tea served at noon, 2PM, 4PM. Railfans rejoice! You can get your afternoon tea fix in the NRM's opulently-restored train carriage, the Countess of York. There are a dozen blends of Harrogate tea to choose from, and a seasonal selection of sandwiches and cakes, with the highlight being traditional Yorkshire scones, vanilla cream and homemade jam. As capacity is constrained by the size of the carriage, it is recommended to book well in advance Traditional afternoon tea £25.50, with champagne £35.50.

The Cake Shop and Tea House, 24 Fossgate, YO1 9TA, +44 1904 671 199. Tu-F 10AM-4PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Afternoon tea: 12:30PM-3PM. Email via online contact form. A slightly more economical afternoon tea that is certainly less refined than other options in the city, but is nonetheless still tasty, filling and satisfying. The advantages of going to a much smaller tea house like here is that you can be sure all the food is freshly made on-site, you don't need to make a reservation and you won't have to queue upon arrival. Disadvantages include some quirky house rules (no children under 10, no devices out at tables) and somewhat temperamental owners. Tea for two £35.

The Garden Room, The Principal York, Station Road, YO24 1AA, +44 1904 688 677. Daily. Afternoon tea 1PM-5PM, twilight tea 5PM-8PM. A grand and comfortable lounge with armchairs and sofas, and views across the lawns to the Minster. Gluten free and vegan versions of afternoon tea are available when booked in advance, and cost the same as the traditional. The twilight tea includes the addition of a cocktail or mocktail. Traditional afternoon tea £23.50, incl. champagne £30.50, children £14.95, cream tea £7.50. Twilight tea M-F £21.95, Sa Su £25.

The Grand Hotel, Station Rise, YO1 6GD, +44 1904 899 521. Daily noon-6PM (must be seated by 3:45PM). Take tea in the hotel's swish Rise restaurant, which offers views over the city walls. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free menus available. Afternoon tea 'by Hudsons' (i.e. in the Hudsons restaurant) is a more gastronomic, and far pricier, alternative. Grand afternoon tea £25.50, incl. sparkling wine £30.50, incl. gin and tonic £33.50, incl. champagne £34.50, children £17. Afternoon tea 'by Hudsons' £35, with champagne £50, with cheese £60.

Navigate to: Pubs, Bars, Nightclubs, Live music and comedy venues The city of York is the site of two breweries and one distillery.

Beer, that is ale, has been brewed within the city walls for centuries, and the latest iteration of this tradition is York Brewery, which brews a range of three pale ales, the award-winning dark ruby ale Centurion's Ghost, and their signature golden ale Yorkshire Terrier. There is also a constantly changing selection of limited-edition creations, which adds a touch of FOMO-fuelled uniqueness to any beer-lover's visit to York. You can also visit the brewery; see the 'Do' section for details.

The new kid on the block is Brew York, which eschews tradition by selling its brews by can. They specialise in U.S.-style craft beers, with hipsterish names such as Cereal Killa (a gluten-free citrusy pale ale), Goose Willis (gooseberry fool in beer form), and Imperial Tonkoko (the "9th best stout in the world!"). Periodically, they mix things up by discontinuing their entire range and releasing a new selection; there's even an IPA which changes its hops with each batch. You can drink at their achingly trendy "tap room" (see below), or else look out for the odd brew of theirs in pubs.

And then there's gin. Running with the established zeitgeist of stunningly unimaginative names, the York Gin Company launched its range in March 2018. It has already made its mark on the local drinks culture, being stocked by dozens of shops, bars and hotels in and around the city, and is attracting attention at international industry awards. The three main varieties available are the classic London-style dry gin which was at its peak popularity in York in the 18th century, a chocolatey gin called Gin Cocoa, and the imperial-red juniper, apple and berry-infused Roman Fruit; all three nod to the city's heritage.

Cider is not made in York, and indeed has never been hugely popular up north, but if you like your apple tipple, then look out for Ampleforth Abbey Cider from nearby Thirsk.

York has perhaps the most pubs per square mile of any city in the country; supposedly there's one for every day of the year.

• The Ackhorne, St Martin's Lane, YO1 6LR (Tucked down a very narrow streetlet off Micklegate, past the church, +44 1904 671 421. Su-Th noon-11PM, F-Sa noon-midnight, quiz Su 9PM. Cosy locals' haunt that is too well hidden to be a major tourist trap. Think pub quiz, pork pies and Yorkshire ales and ciders.
• The Blue Bell, 53 Fossgate, YO1 9TF, +44 1904 654 904. M-Th 11AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight, Su noon-10:30PM. The smallest pub in York really is tiny, but the Edwardian interior (grade II* listed), conversational atmosphere and real ales mostly from around Yorkshire make this a firm locals' favourite. As there is nowhere to go but the bar area, children are not allowed.
• The Keystones, 4 Monkgate, YO31 7PE, +44 1904 656 202. M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su noon-11:30PM. Popular with a younger crowd for its live sports on telly at the weekends, pool table, variety of board games and free Playstation 4. Beer garden at rear.
• The Kings Arms, 3 King's Staith, YO1 9SN, +44 1904 659 435. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. The king in question is Richard III, and his house is right on the river bank, meaning one of its annual traditions is becoming part of the river, a fact which is cheerfully recorded on its flood level gauge on the wall inside. Some of the bar rules ('no swearing', 'no drunkenness') are a bit suspect for a pub, and it exclusively serves beers from local brewery Samuel Smith's.
• Lendal Cellars, 26 Lendal, YO1 8AA, +44 1904 623 121. Su-Th 10AM-11PM, F Sa 10AM-1AM. A standard Greene King chain pub in all ways but one: the building. To access, the visitor must leave the street via a passageway, then descend into this arch-ceilinged underground bar, which was the Lord Mayor's personal wine cellar in the 18th century. An atmospheric venue for drinks, but avoid the food.
• The Maltings, Tanner's Moat, YO1 1HU, +44 1904 655 387. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. Absolutely cracking real-ale free house. The resident beer is Yorkshire's famous Black Sheep bitter, and there is a constant rotation of six other guest beers and four traditional ciders.
• The Micklegate, 127 Micklegate, YO1 6LB, +44 1904 541 656. Su-Th 10AM-11PM, F Sa 10AM-midnight. Good for a noisy couple of hours. If there's no live football with eager fans staring at the multitude of screens, then the music will be playing loud.
• The Minster Inn, 24 Marygate, YO30 7BH, +44 1904 849 240. Daily noon-11PM. Not actually by the Minster and off the beaten track, most of the inn's clientele are regulars. Full of local charm, serving a wide range of traditional ales and, as a bonus from 4PM, pizzas stone-baked to order.
• The Priory, 103 Micklegate, YO1 6LB, +44 1904 653 231. M-F 11AM-1AM, Sa Su 11AM-2AM. Part of the Wear Inns chain, this pub has a pool table, jukebox and live sport on the telly. There is better beer to be had in York, and frankly better places to drink it, but the late-night opening makes The Priory stand out from the crowd.
• The Roman Bath, 9 St. Sampson's Square, YO1 8RN, +44 1904 620 455. Daily 11AM-11PM. Shabby John Smiths pub with a wide selection of lagers and frequent open-mic nights. As the name hints at, the building is on top of the remains of a real Roman bath that you can visit for a fee.
• The Three Legged Mare, 15 High Petergate, YO1 7EN, +44 1904 638 246. M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su 11AM-10:30PM. York Brewery pub which serves their ales and bar snacks, the Donkey has quite an active social week, with a Monday quiz, Thursday open mic night, Friday live folk music and various live music acts on Saturday nights..

The Ackhorne, St Martin's Lane, YO1 6LR (Tucked down a very narrow streetlet off Micklegate, past the church, +44 1904 671 421. Su-Th noon-11PM, F-Sa noon-midnight, quiz Su 9PM. Cosy locals' haunt that is too well hidden to be a major tourist trap. Think pub quiz, pork pies and Yorkshire ales and ciders.

The Blue Bell, 53 Fossgate, YO1 9TF, +44 1904 654 904. M-Th 11AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight, Su noon-10:30PM. The smallest pub in York really is tiny, but the Edwardian interior (grade II* listed), conversational atmosphere and real ales mostly from around Yorkshire make this a firm locals' favourite. As there is nowhere to go but the bar area, children are not allowed.

The Keystones, 4 Monkgate, YO31 7PE, +44 1904 656 202. M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su noon-11:30PM. Popular with a younger crowd for its live sports on telly at the weekends, pool table, variety of board games and free Playstation 4. Beer garden at rear.

The Kings Arms, 3 King's Staith, YO1 9SN, +44 1904 659 435. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. The king in question is Richard III, and his house is right on the river bank, meaning one of its annual traditions is becoming part of the river, a fact which is cheerfully recorded on its flood level gauge on the wall inside. Some of the bar rules ('no swearing', 'no drunkenness') are a bit suspect for a pub, and it exclusively serves beers from local brewery Samuel Smith's.

Lendal Cellars, 26 Lendal, YO1 8AA, +44 1904 623 121. Su-Th 10AM-11PM, F Sa 10AM-1AM. A standard Greene King chain pub in all ways but one: the building. To access, the visitor must leave the street via a passageway, then descend into this arch-ceilinged underground bar, which was the Lord Mayor's personal wine cellar in the 18th century. An atmospheric venue for drinks, but avoid the food.

The Maltings, Tanner's Moat, YO1 1HU, +44 1904 655 387. M-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su noon-10:30PM. Absolutely cracking real-ale free house. The resident beer is Yorkshire's famous Black Sheep bitter, and there is a constant rotation of six other guest beers and four traditional ciders.

The Micklegate, 127 Micklegate, YO1 6LB, +44 1904 541 656. Su-Th 10AM-11PM, F Sa 10AM-midnight. Good for a noisy couple of hours. If there's no live football with eager fans staring at the multitude of screens, then the music will be playing loud.

The Minster Inn, 24 Marygate, YO30 7BH, +44 1904 849 240. Daily noon-11PM. Not actually by the Minster and off the beaten track, most of the inn's clientele are regulars. Full of local charm, serving a wide range of traditional ales and, as a bonus from 4PM, pizzas stone-baked to order.

The Priory, 103 Micklegate, YO1 6LB, +44 1904 653 231. M-F 11AM-1AM, Sa Su 11AM-2AM. Part of the Wear Inns chain, this pub has a pool table, jukebox and live sport on the telly. There is better beer to be had in York, and frankly better places to drink it, but the late-night opening makes The Priory stand out from the crowd.

The Roman Bath, 9 St. Sampson's Square, YO1 8RN, +44 1904 620 455. Daily 11AM-11PM. Shabby John Smiths pub with a wide selection of lagers and frequent open-mic nights. As the name hints at, the building is on top of the remains of a real Roman bath that you can visit for a fee.

The Three Legged Mare, 15 High Petergate, YO1 7EN, +44 1904 638 246. M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su 11AM-10:30PM. York Brewery pub which serves their ales and bar snacks, the Donkey has quite an active social week, with a Monday quiz, Thursday open mic night, Friday live folk music and various live music acts on Saturday nights..

In this section, you'll find a selection of the most recommended bars in town, with a bit of everything from brewery tap rooms to cocktail bars, and places to nab a Viking brewski.

• Brew York, Enterprise Complex, Walmgate, YO1 9TT, +44 1904 848 448. Beer hall: Tu-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-9PM. Tap room: W, Th 6PM-11PM, F 4PM-11PM, Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-9PM. Brewery tours (duration 45-60 min): F 5:30PM, Sa 1:30PM, 3:30PM. This craft brewery's 200-seater beer hall and tap room are right alongside the brewing machinery; the beer couldn't be fresher! They also have a nice small open-air seating area in the back facing the River Foss. Burgers and Korean sides will help soak up the alcohol. Tour £10 p.p. incl. 4 samples of ⅓ pint.
• Dusk, 8 New Street, YO1 8RA, +44 1904 634 851. Daily 10AM-2AM. 2-for-1 cocktails M-Th all night, F-Su until 10PM. A great place for cocktails, that describes itself as a "laid-back café bar by day, den of iniquity by night." While it does indeed get busy of an evening, especially when there's a live music act, you can usually find some space upstairs.
• Evil Eye, 42 Stonegate, YO1 8AS, +44 1904 640 002. Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F Sa 10AM-1AM. Colourful cocktail bar tucked behind a gin shop owned by the same people. You may have to queue to enter, as the place is very small. No longer serves street food.
• House of the Trembling Madness (Stonegate), 48 Stonegate, YO1 8AS, +44 1904 640 009. Daily 10AM-midnight. Email via online contact form. If the name doesn't put you off, then presumably neither will the taxidermied lion's head hanging over the bar, or the wax-encrusted candlesticks on the tables. Work your way through their encyclopedic collection of Belgian beers, and then soak up the booze with some maddeningly superior barsnacks. The same company has a much larger venue on Lendal.
• Jalou, 2 Micklegate, YO1 6JG, +44 1904 466 502. Su-W 4PM-1AM, Th-Sa noon-2AM. Email via online contact form. Geordie glam meets medieval York: lavish and pricey cocktails served to an RnB soundtrack in a grade II-listed Gothic church with an impressive 'neon chandelier' centrepiece.
• The Biltmore, 29 Swinegate, YO1 8AZ, +44 1904 610 075. Tu 5PM-midnight, W, Th noon-midnight, Fr, Sa noon-2AM, Su noon-midnight. Housed in a converted historic church, this New York-inspired swish champagne and cocktail bar is relaxed in the week and buzzing at the weekend with the house DJ's music.
• The York Tap, York Station, Station Road, YO24 1AB, +44 1904 659 009. M-Th 10AM-11PM, F Sa 10AM-11:40PM, Su 11AM-11PM. Housed in a smartly converted Edwardian tea room, this is the place for a decent (if not cheap) pint while waiting for a train. True to its former life, you can still get hot drinks and homemade cakes here too.
• Vahe Bar, 31-33 Goodramgate, YO1 7LS, +44 1904 628 344. W Th 5PM-11PM, F 10:30AM-midnight, Sa 12:30PM-midnight. Lovely relaxed bar overlooking York Minster serving British ales and Belgian draughts, plus over 200 bottled continental beers and 300 spirits.
• Valhalla, 4 Patrick Pool, YO1 8BB, +44 1904 653 999. Su-Th noon-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-12:30AM. Anyone versed in Norse mythology will love this bar, which offers proof if it were needed that the Viking spirit is alive and well in York. A place for loudly drinking mead, cider and ale, and feasting from platters stuffed to bursting with quality Yorkshire and Scandi produce.

Brew York, Enterprise Complex, Walmgate, YO1 9TT, +44 1904 848 448. Beer hall: Tu-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-9PM. Tap room: W, Th 6PM-11PM, F 4PM-11PM, Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-9PM. Brewery tours (duration 45-60 min): F 5:30PM, Sa 1:30PM, 3:30PM. This craft brewery's 200-seater beer hall and tap room are right alongside the brewing machinery; the beer couldn't be fresher! They also have a nice small open-air seating area in the back facing the River Foss. Burgers and Korean sides will help soak up the alcohol. Tour £10 p.p. incl. 4 samples of ⅓ pint.

Dusk, 8 New Street, YO1 8RA, +44 1904 634 851. Daily 10AM-2AM. 2-for-1 cocktails M-Th all night, F-Su until 10PM. A great place for cocktails, that describes itself as a "laid-back café bar by day, den of iniquity by night." While it does indeed get busy of an evening, especially when there's a live music act, you can usually find some space upstairs.

Evil Eye, 42 Stonegate, YO1 8AS, +44 1904 640 002. Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F Sa 10AM-1AM. Colourful cocktail bar tucked behind a gin shop owned by the same people. You may have to queue to enter, as the place is very small. No longer serves street food.

House of the Trembling Madness (Stonegate), 48 Stonegate, YO1 8AS, +44 1904 640 009. Daily 10AM-midnight. Email via online contact form. If the name doesn't put you off, then presumably neither will the taxidermied lion's head hanging over the bar, or the wax-encrusted candlesticks on the tables. Work your way through their encyclopedic collection of Belgian beers, and then soak up the booze with some maddeningly superior barsnacks. The same company has a much larger venue [[#Madness Lendal|on Lendal]].

Jalou, 2 Micklegate, YO1 6JG, +44 1904 466 502. Su-W 4PM-1AM, Th-Sa noon-2AM. Email via online contact form. [[Newcastle upon Tyne|Geordie]] glam meets medieval York: lavish and pricey cocktails served to an RnB soundtrack in a grade II-listed Gothic church with an impressive 'neon chandelier' centrepiece.

The Biltmore, 29 Swinegate, YO1 8AZ, +44 1904 610 075. Tu 5PM-midnight, W, Th noon-midnight, Fr, Sa noon-2AM, Su noon-midnight. Housed in a converted historic church, this New York-inspired swish champagne and cocktail bar is relaxed in the week and buzzing at the weekend with the house DJ's music.

The York Tap, York Station, Station Road, YO24 1AB, +44 1904 659 009. M-Th 10AM-11PM, F Sa 10AM-11:40PM, Su 11AM-11PM. Housed in a smartly converted Edwardian tea room, this is the place for a decent (if not cheap) pint while waiting for a train. True to its former life, you can still get hot drinks and homemade cakes here too.

Vahe Bar, 31-33 Goodramgate, YO1 7LS, +44 1904 628 344. W Th 5PM-11PM, F 10:30AM-midnight, Sa 12:30PM-midnight. Lovely relaxed bar overlooking York Minster serving British ales and Belgian draughts, plus over 200 bottled continental beers and 300 spirits.

Valhalla, 4 Patrick Pool, YO1 8BB, +44 1904 653 999. Su-Th noon-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-12:30AM. Anyone versed in Norse mythology will love this bar, which offers proof if it were needed that the Viking spirit is alive and well in York. A place for loudly drinking mead, cider and ale, and feasting from platters stuffed to bursting with quality Yorkshire and Scandi produce.

The weak link in York's nightlife offering. If you're legally or mentally 18, you'll probably love the singularly awful half-dozen offerings which are aimed squarely at the city's population of students (and underage teens), but if you want any kind of sophistication or musical variety, then you should heed the call of Leeds.

• Club Salvation, 3 George Hudson Street, YO1 6JL, +44 1904 635 144. University term time: W F 10:30PM-4AM, Sa 11PM-4AM. University holidays: Sa 11PM-4AM. Essentially for boozed-up undergrad students, Salvo has cheap drinks, chart music and absolutely no class. The bouncers have a bad attitude, but a strict policy against drugs. Free entry before 10PM, then £5 (combo ticket with Society).
• Kuda Bar and Club, 12 Clifford Street, YO1 9RD, +44 1904 647 947. M-W, F 11PM-3:30AM, Sa 9PM-3:30AM. Split over two floors and three rooms, including a tiki bar complete with hula girls, and a cocktail lounge. VIP booths available. Drinks are pricey. Entry from £3.
• Mansion, 55 Micklegate, YO1 6LJ, +44 1904 500 880. Tu-Sa 9PM-5AM. The kind of place where projectile vomiting adds to the fun, this is a hard-drinking, slightly filthy club. Entry £3-£5.
• Popworld, George Hudson Street, YO1 6JL, +44 1904 645 161. M-Th 10PM-3AM, F 8PM-3AM, Sa 5PM-3AM, Su 10PM-3AM. Describing itself as "cheese with style", Popworld is deeply proud of how uncool it is. This chain club is smaller than most of its sister venues, but has a revolving dancefloor on which you can bust out your worst moves to music as sugary as the floor's sticky coating. Entry generally free, some events £3.
• Society Bar & Lounge, 1 Rougier Street, YO1 6HZ, +44 1904 625 438. W-Su 9PM-2AM, 3AM Sa. Cheap drinks and mainstream party music, popular with students. It gets cramped at the weekend. Free entry before 10PM, then £5 (combo ticket with Salvo).
• The Stone Roses, 4 King Street, YO1 9SP, +44 1904 670 696. Daily noon-2AM. A 90s-themed rock/britpop bar which steadily morphs into a club as the night goes on. Decent atmosphere and bargain bevvies. Free entry except for gigs.

Club Salvation, 3 George Hudson Street, YO1 6JL, +44 1904 635 144. University term time: W F 10:30PM-4AM, Sa 11PM-4AM. University holidays: Sa 11PM-4AM. Essentially for boozed-up undergrad students, Salvo has cheap drinks, chart music and absolutely no class. The bouncers have a bad attitude, but a strict policy against drugs. Free entry before 10PM, then £5 (combo ticket with Society).

Kuda Bar and Club, 12 Clifford Street, YO1 9RD, +44 1904 647 947. M-W, F 11PM-3:30AM, Sa 9PM-3:30AM. Split over two floors and three rooms, including a tiki bar complete with hula girls, and a cocktail lounge. VIP booths available. Drinks are pricey. Entry from £3.

Mansion, 55 Micklegate, YO1 6LJ, +44 1904 500 880. Tu-Sa 9PM-5AM. The kind of place where projectile vomiting adds to the fun, this is a hard-drinking, slightly filthy club. Entry £3-£5.

Popworld, George Hudson Street, YO1 6JL, +44 1904 645 161. M-Th 10PM-3AM, F 8PM-3AM, Sa 5PM-3AM, Su 10PM-3AM. Describing itself as "cheese with style", Popworld is deeply proud of how uncool it is. This chain club is smaller than most of its sister venues, but has a revolving dancefloor on which you can bust out your worst moves to music as sugary as the floor's sticky coating. Entry generally free, some events £3.

Society Bar & Lounge, 1 Rougier Street, YO1 6HZ, +44 1904 625 438. W-Su 9PM-2AM, 3AM Sa. Cheap drinks and mainstream party music, popular with students. It gets cramped at the weekend. Free entry before 10PM, then £5 (combo ticket with Salvo).

The Stone Roses, 4 King Street, YO1 9SP, +44 1904 670 696. Daily noon-2AM. A 90s-themed rock/britpop bar which steadily morphs into a club as the night goes on. Decent atmosphere and bargain bevvies. Free entry except for gigs.

• Fibbers, 3-5 Toft Green, YO1 6JT, +44 1904 848 558 (general), +44 8444 771 000 (tickets - premium rate). Most shows 7:30PM-10:30PM. Long running music venue which has hosted many of the UK's biggest acts since the 1990s. Gigs several nights a week. 14-16 year olds must be accompanied by an adult (18+). No under 14s. As of summer 2019, facing an uncertain future - enjoy it while you can.
• The Basement, 13-17 Coney Street, YO1 9QL (Under the City Screen Picturehouse, +44 871 902 5747 (premium rate). Most gigs 8PM-11PM, most other events 7:30PM-10PM. 100-seater underground venue for live music (especially jazz), comedy, film, poetry, workshops and discussions. One of two venues for the Laugh Out Loud comedy club. 16+ only.
• The Crescent, 8 The Crescent, YO24 1AW, +44 1904 622 510. Daily 4PM-midnight (Sa Su until 1AM). Working men's club turned community events venue. Tuesdays are for retro gaming, Wednesday is open decks night, and there are music gigs several times a week.
• The Fulford Arms, ​121 Fulford Road, YO10 4EX (Bus: 7, 25, 26, 415, +44 1904 620 410. M-Th 4PM-midnight, F Sa 11:30AM-1AM, Su 11:30AM-midnight. Real ale pub with a relaxed 'suburban local' atmosphere by day, but with live music and other events such as charity fundraisers nearly every night.

Fibbers, 3-5 Toft Green, YO1 6JT, +44 1904 848 558 (general), +44 8444 771 000 (tickets - premium rate). Most shows 7:30PM-10:30PM. Long running music venue which has hosted many of the UK's biggest acts since the 1990s. Gigs several nights a week. 14-16 year olds must be accompanied by an adult (18+). No under 14s. As of summer 2019, facing an uncertain future - enjoy it while you can.

The Basement, 13-17 Coney Street, YO1 9QL (Under the City Screen Picturehouse, +44 871 902 5747 (premium rate). Most gigs 8PM-11PM, most other events 7:30PM-10PM. 100-seater underground venue for live music (especially jazz), comedy, film, poetry, workshops and discussions. One of two venues for the Laugh Out Loud comedy club. 16+ only.

The Crescent, 8 The Crescent, YO24 1AW, +44 1904 622 510. Daily 4PM-midnight (Sa Su until 1AM). Working men's club turned community events venue. Tuesdays are for retro gaming, Wednesday is open decks night, and there are music gigs several times a week.

The Fulford Arms, ​121 Fulford Road, YO10 4EX (Bus: 7, 25, 26, 415, +44 1904 620 410. M-Th 4PM-midnight, F Sa 11:30AM-1AM, Su 11:30AM-midnight. Real ale pub with a relaxed 'suburban local' atmosphere by day, but with live music and other events such as charity fundraisers nearly every night.

York is a safe city with no significant crime problem. It is consistently ranked one of the best places to live in the whole UK, and high safety levels help to influence this. Unlike certain other European cities popular with tourists, visitors to York are not a particular target for scams and crimes. There are, however, some precautions worth taking.

Take care on weekend evenings in York. Plenty of local youngsters overestimate their capacity for alcohol and the city centre can seem to be awash with lager louts, mainly in the Micklegate area. If you are approached just keep on walking and they will find another victim to pester. Aim for Wikivoyage's recommended pubs, though, and you'll find that safe socialising in the company of affable locals is still possible!

Try to avoid secluded cycle paths and ginnels (alleyways) at night as it is not unknown for robberies to take place in these parts, however this tends to be away from the main city centre.

Be careful near and on the River Ouse, as it is deep and cold, and the current is surprisingly strong. If you have been drinking, avoid going near the river altogether, especially at night. The bankside paths can be slippery and poorly lit, and if you do fall in, there may well be no-one around to help you out. Several people drown in the Ouse every year, and alcohol and darkness play a role in the majority of deaths.

In spite of elaborate defences, York floods pretty much every winter. All it takes is a few days of sustained rainfall somewhere upstream, and the houses and businesses nearest to the Ouse are submerged. There's about 30 miles of Pennine moors, from Harrogate to Richmond, where the pouring rain has only one way out. If it keeps raining, then 48 hours later the river at York is brimming; another day of rain and riverside properties start to become inundated.

Aside from providing the press with a dependable annual news story, the only upside to York's frequent inundations is that locals know what to do. If you're caught in a flood, follow their lead. You can also access the city council's flood advice portal. While water damage to property is often serious, flood-related injuries and deaths are extremely rare. Follow the authorities' advice, and you'll be fine.

• York Hospital, Wigginton Road, YO31 8HE, +44 1904 631 313, 999, 112 (emergency). 24 hours. Visiting times 1PM-8PM. NHS hospital with accident and emergency facilities

• Monkbar Pharmacy, 3 Goodramgate, YO1 7LJ (By Monk Bar / Richard III Experience, +44 1904 626 181. M-Sa 7:30AM-10:30PM, Su 8:30AM-6:30PM.
• The Priory Pharmacy, Priory Medical Centre, Cornlands Road, YO24 3WX (2⅓ miles (3.6 km) south-west of city in Acomb, +44 1904 404 101. M-Sa 8AM-11PM, Su 10AM-8PM. Email via online contact form

Monkbar Pharmacy, 3 Goodramgate, YO1 7LJ (By Monk Bar / Richard III Experience, +44 1904 626 181. M-Sa 7:30AM-10:30PM, Su 8:30AM-6:30PM.

The Priory Pharmacy, Priory Medical Centre, Cornlands Road, YO24 3WX (2⅓ miles (3.6 km) south-west of city in Acomb, +44 1904 404 101. M-Sa 8AM-11PM, Su 10AM-8PM. Email via online contact form

York Hospital, Wigginton Road, YO31 8HE, +44 1904 631 313, 999, 112 (emergency). 24 hours. Visiting times 1PM-8PM. NHS hospital with accident and emergency facilities

York has dozens of Christian churches, including of the Anglican, Catholic, Baptist, Methodist, Quaker, Presbyterian, and Latter Day Saints denominations. Muslims can worship at the city's first and only mosque on Bull Lane (YO10 3EN). The Quaker meeting house on Friargate (YO1 9RL) also hosts York's Liberal Jewish and Buddhist communities. Adherents of other faiths and denominations will generally find their nearest place of worship to be in Leeds.

York's area code for landline numbers is 01904 when dialled from within the UK or +44 1904 from outside the UK. Calls made from landlines within York do not require the area code to connect.

Most of York is covered by the CityConnect free Wi-Fi service - see the website for a map of all the hotspots. Complete a brief online registration form, and you're good to go.

Alternatively, if you don't have a device capable of connecting to the internet, or you need to get online on a desktop computer:

• York Explore Library, Library Square, Museum Street, YO1 7DS, +44 1904 552 828. M-Th 9AM-8PM, F 10AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Ask at the enquiry desk - you'll see plenty of locals using the computers, but the staff can arrange web access for visitors too. Printing facilities are also available.

York Explore Library, Library Square, Museum Street, YO1 7DS, +44 1904 552 828. M-Th 9AM-8PM, F 10AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. Ask at the enquiry desk - you'll see plenty of locals using the computers, but the staff can arrange web access for visitors too. Printing facilities are also available.

York is centrally located in Yorkshire, making it a great base for days out in any direction.

The Vale is a prosperous agricultural country sandwiched between the Pennines and the East Coast. Peppered with medieval monasteries, castles and stately homes, it also has a selection of attractive small towns:

• Harrogate is the obvious next move from York, being an elegant Regency-era spa town 21mile west on the A59, or 33 min on the train, and home to the original Bettys Tea Rooms. Worth a stop on the way is Knaresborough (25 min on the train), to see the 12th century castle and visit a witch's lair.
• Ripon is a village-sized city that still packs in an impressive Early English cathedral, the haunting ruins of Fountains Abbey, and a host of justice-themed museums. It's 25mile north-west via the A59 and A1 (M), or bus 22 takes an absurd
  1 hr 20 min. On the way, why not check out the Roman villa at Aldborough?
• Selby's 11th century abbey is worth the 14mile journey south on the A19, or 20-30 min on the train.
• Tadcaster is a brewery town noted for its Sam Smiths beers 10miles south-west on the A64, or 25 min on buses 840, 843, or 845.
• Thirsk is a small market town 23miles north on the A19, or 15-20 min on the train, with a museum dedicated to the vet James Herriot.

• Hull is a major East Coast seaport in the midst of long-awaited urban renaissance, having successfully reinvented itself from a synonym for dull into the UK's 2017 City of Culture. It's 41mile south-east via the A1079 and A63, or 1 hr 5 min by train.
• Leeds is the biggest and most cosmopolitan city in Yorkshire, known for its palatial shopping arcades and fantastic for clubbing, drinking and dining. It's 25mile south-west on the A64, or 25 min by train.
• Rural Yorkshire's apotheosis, the Dales National Park, sits west of Harrogate. Drive as far as Bolton Abbey on the A59, then up the Wharfedale road into the heart of the park: the majestic Ribblehead Viaduct, Yorkshire's Three Peaks, cheese town Hawes, and bucolic Swaledale await. Access via public transport is easiest in summer, as there are some seasonal bus routes. Journeys at other times of the year will likely take you via Leeds, but you can equally get a bus up Nidderdale from Harrogate; see Yorkshire Dales#Get in for details.
• The heather expanses of the North York Moors National Park stretch north of Pickering (26mile, best accessed by the A64, turning off near Malton). The National Trust property Nunnington Hall, English Heritage ruin Rievaulx Abbey and baroque magnificence of Castle Howard are within the park. Coastliner bus 840 runs from York through the moors.
• Bridlington (via the A166), Filey (via the A64) and Scarborough (via the A64) are all Victorian seaside resorts, and all 41mile from York, via different routes. The scenic coast road north of Scarborough leads past little coves and windswept moors to Whitby, where you can contemplate Count Dracula, while eating possibly the best fish and chips in the world. The train from York to Scarborough takes 55 min, and you can then catch onward trains or buses to the other destinations mentioned here

See the main Yorkshire article for many more ideas.