Ao Nang

Ao Nang (อ่าวนาง), colloquially referred to as "Krabi", is a sub-district and a resort town of the Mueang Krabi District, in Thailand's Krabi Province, about 15 km from Krabi Town. In high season, roughly 1 November-30 April, it is the busiest and most tourist-oriented beach destination of the province and consequently one of the most expensive places in Thailand outside of Bangkok. Phuket is cheap by comparison. On 1 May, the wrecking balls come out and many existing storefronts are demolished to make way for new ones. In low-season many places shut entirely, restrict their hours, prices revert to normal and the town is relatively deserted.

Formally Ao Phra Nang ("Princess Bay") although everybody uses the short form, Ao Nang. It is the most "Westernized" beach in Krabi, originally a backpacker hotspot but now upmarket as the airport brings in higher flyers. While not quite as scenic as Rai Leh, there is some cheap accommodation, many good restaurants, easy transport and travel/tour agencies ready to cater to your every whim, making it a good base for exploring Krabi.

Orienting yourself in Ao Nang is easy: almost everything is either along Ao Nang and Nopparat Thar Beaches, which run roughly northwest-southeast, adjacent to Ao Nang Road (Rte 4203) which goes east, then north from the southeast end of the beach. Longtail boats arrive and depart from the beach at either end of Ao Nang Beach. An impassable headland and Khlong Haeng (Dry Creek) separates Ao Nang Beach from Nopparat Thara Beach. Don't swim in the vicinity of the creek as it conveys raw sewage straight to the ocean. At the bridge over Khlong Haeng, Ao Nang Road becomes Nopparat Thara Road.

One of Ao Nang's drawbacks is that Ao Nang and Nopparat Thara Beaches are crummy beaches, certainly not beaches worth flying thousands of miles to visit. The Rai Leh Peninsula has superior—but crowded—beaches, but to get there you are dependent on the local longtail boat cartel which will charge you 100 baht to get there and another 100 baht return.

• Fossil Shell Beach. This overblown tourist attraction has slates of compressed 40 million year old shellfish, which resemble concrete. There's also a small grubby museum and a huge slew of gift shops. This tourist trap is simply not worth the money unless you're a geology student. As the official Krabi tourism website (rather honestly) puts it, "Most are either engrossed to [sic] this or totally indifferent...". 200 baht for foreigners, 20 baht for Thais.

Fossil Shell Beach. This overblown tourist attraction has slates of compressed 40 million year old shellfish, which resemble concrete. There's also a small grubby museum and a huge slew of gift shops. This tourist trap is simply not worth the money unless you're a geology student. As the official Krabi tourism website (rather honestly) puts it, "Most are either engrossed to [sic] this or totally indifferent...". 200 baht for foreigners, 20 baht for Thais.

Rai Leh. and Ko Phi Phi. are just around the corner and there are many tour operators offering activities such as sea kayaking and elephant treks. Rock climbing can be arranged through Ao Nang agencies who will arrange transfers, lunch, and as much climbing as your limbs can handle. Alternatively, simply sail over to Rai Leh or Ton Sai and organize an introductory course yourself.

Seven-day tide tables and sea conditions for Ao Nang can be found at tide-forecast

From Ao Nang, three beaches are accessible by foot, without resort to a 100 baht boat ride to Ton Sai or Rai Leh.

• Ao Nang Beach. Ao Nang Beach, lined with shops and restaurants, is more like a base for exploring Krabi than an important destination in itself. The west side of the beach is no great beauty, being heavily littered and ruined by the massive number of boats ready to take tourists to other beaches and to the islands. Most tourists spend the day on the east side of the beach, which is more scenic, swimmer-friendly, and contains some friendly monkeys interacting with visitors, although litter is a problem and the area is crossed by a putrid stream. At the eastern edge, a 10-15 minute trail leads to Pai Plong Beach. This is the most scenic and peaceful beach one can walk to, but has no infrastructure other than the Centara Resort. The trail itself is not particularly difficult, but still best avoided by the elderly, disabled, and small children.
• Nopparat Thara Beach.

  Long beach at the western edge of Ao Nang, zoned as a national park. Nopparat Thara beach is effectively divided in two parts, separated by a river that hosts the Hat Nopparat Thara Pier, where longtail boats and speedboats depart to Phuket and other islands.

  The western half is located in the neighboring Nong Thale sub-district. It is mostly surrounded by forest and a few resorts, and hence extremely quiet.

  The eastern half, located in Ao Nang, is lined with hotels, restaurants and shops, although not as much as Ao Nang beach. In the section of the beach closer to the pier, there are more businesses catering to Thai, rather to Western visitors, making it a good place to look for budget food. Nopparat Thara is a quieter alternative to Ao Nang and excellent for a morning stroll or watching the sunset, but the beach gets rather narrow at high tide, and it is a good idea to ask the locals if it is jellyfish season before plunging in if no one else is in the water. Near the river, during low tide you can walk up to some of the nearby craggy limestone islands like Kao Pak Klong.

• Pai Plong Beach. Centara Resort occupies a scenic little cove just around the headland from Ao Nang Beach. The resort is doing its best to give the impression that it owns the beach frontage. But beaches in Thailand are all public and the public cannot be denied their use. Security guards abound and you will be asked to sign in and out. The beach itself is small, with only about five metres of sand at high tide. But it's a cute, relatively secluded beach that is hands down better that Ao Nang or Nopparat Thara. Use this beach so it stays in the public domain. The resort is quite happy to have you sit at the beachfront bar and eat and drink. Great place to watch the sunset. The wooden walkway is lighted at night, so should be no problem negotiating it after dark.

Ao Nang Beach. Ao Nang Beach, lined with shops and restaurants, is more like a base for exploring Krabi than an important destination in itself. The west side of the beach is no great beauty, being heavily littered and ruined by the massive number of boats ready to take tourists to other beaches and to the islands. Most tourists spend the day on the east side of the beach, which is more scenic, swimmer-friendly, and contains some friendly monkeys interacting with visitors, although litter is a problem and the area is crossed by a putrid stream. At the eastern edge, a 10-15 minute trail leads to Pai Plong Beach. This is the most scenic and peaceful beach one can walk to, but has no infrastructure other than the Centara Resort. The trail itself is not particularly difficult, but still best avoided by the elderly, disabled, and small children.

Nopparat Thara Beach.

Long beach at the western edge of Ao Nang, zoned as a national park. Nopparat Thara beach is effectively divided in two parts, separated by a river that hosts the Hat Nopparat Thara Pier, where longtail boats and speedboats depart to Phuket and other islands.

The western half is located in the neighboring Nong Thale sub-district. It is mostly surrounded by forest and a few resorts, and hence extremely quiet.

The eastern half, located in Ao Nang, is lined with hotels, restaurants and shops, although not as much as Ao Nang beach. In the section of the beach closer to the pier, there are more businesses catering to Thai, rather to Western visitors, making it a good place to look for budget food. Nopparat Thara is a quieter alternative to Ao Nang and excellent for a morning stroll or watching the sunset, but the beach gets rather narrow at high tide, and it is a good idea to ask the locals if it is jellyfish season before plunging in if no one else is in the water. Near the river, during low tide you can walk up to some of the nearby craggy limestone islands like Kao Pak Klong.

Pai Plong Beach. Centara Resort occupies a scenic little cove just around the headland from Ao Nang Beach. The resort is doing its best to give the impression that it owns the beach frontage. But beaches in Thailand are all public and the public cannot be denied their use. Security guards abound and you will be asked to sign in and out. The beach itself is small, with only about five metres of sand at high tide. But it's a cute, relatively secluded beach that is hands down better that Ao Nang or Nopparat Thara. Use this beach so it stays in the public domain. The resort is quite happy to have you sit at the beachfront bar and eat and drink. Great place to watch the sunset. The wooden walkway is lighted at night, so should be no problem negotiating it after dark.

• The main beach at Ao Nang is the departure point for boats to a number of places, including the nearby resort of Rai Leh, which cannot be accessed by road, Poda Island and Chicken Island. Ticket booths with clear pricing structures can be found at both ends of the beach.

• Andaman Camp and Cruise, +66 87 8851125. Private, customised day trips and camping trips to many islands. They can also help plan individual itineraries, accommodation and transfers. Fast, helpful, English speaking service with emails answered within 24 hours. Highly recommended.

Andaman Camp and Cruise, +66 87 8851125. Private, customised day trips and camping trips to many islands. They can also help plan individual itineraries, accommodation and transfers. Fast, helpful, English speaking service with emails answered within 24 hours. Highly recommended.

• Ao Nang Thai Cookery School, Ao Nammao, +66 81 4159358. Daily, 09:00-20:30. Khun Sow is the head honcha. Cooking classes are 3 hr. Fruit carving is an all day class and the most expensive course. 1,000-2,500 baht.
• Krabi Fruit Carving, 326 Moo 1, Soi Nopparat Thara 3 (Soi 3 is off Hwy 4202 near the village of Ban Chong Phli. Thai fruit and vegetable carving is an art form. Basic courses are 3 hr long and the full-day course is 7 hours. 1,400-2,800 baht.

Ao Nang Thai Cookery School, Ao Nammao, +66 81 4159358. Daily, 09:00-20:30. Khun Sow is the head honcha. Cooking classes are 3 hr. Fruit carving is an all day class and the most expensive course. 1,000-2,500 baht.

Krabi Fruit Carving, 326 Moo 1, Soi Nopparat Thara 3 (Soi 3 is off Hwy 4202 near the village of Ban Chong Phli. Thai fruit and vegetable carving is an art form. Basic courses are 3 hr long and the full-day course is 7 hours. 1,400-2,800 baht.

There are a number of scuba diving centers in Ao Nang, offering dive course from basic up to instructor level. The "local" islands in Ao Nang Bay are relatively easy to access and uncrowded compared to many of the diving sites around Phi Phi Island. Other options include Shark Point Marine Sanctuary and the King Cruiser wreck which is suitable for intermediate divers, and mini-safaris to Hin Daeng, Hin Muang, and the Ko Ha Yai Islands for experienced or deep qualified divers. Most of the dive shops offer a very similar price for the dive courses and dive trips. It's now also possible to do a one day safari by speedboat to Hin Daeng and Hin Muang for a chance to see whale sharks and manta rays, or to do some spectacular cavern diving at the five islands of Ko Ha Yai. Some of the more popular dive sites can become crowded in the peak of high season late-December to early-January

• Aqua Vision Dive Centre, 76/12 Moo 2 (On Ao Nang Rd 2 min up from McDonalds, +66 75 637415. Daily, 08:00-18:30. Experienced PADI 5-Star IDC dive centre. English, German, Swedish, French, Spanish, Russian, and Thai language dive guides. Dive trips by speedboat to Phi Phi and local islands. Weekly trips to Shark Point, Anemone Reef, King Cruiser wreck, trips also available to Hin Daeng, Ko Ha Yai, Racha Islands.
• Kon-Tiki Diving and Snorkeling Center, 137 Moo 2 (In front of Krabi Resort, +66 75 637826. PADI 5-Star IDC dive centre . Their boats runs daily diving and snorkelling tours to Phi Phi Islands with weekly trips to Shark Point, King Cruiser wreck, Hin Daeng/Hin Muang.
• Phran Nang Divers, 32/10 Moo 2. English-run PADI dive centre with over 15 years experience diving in Ao Nang. Courses run in English and German, most European languages also available.
• Poseidon Dive Center, 69/9 Soi Tu Rian (On the main road, 70 m from Ao Nang Beach, opposite Ao Nang Villa and Ao Nang Orchid Resort, +66 98 071 9035. Daily, 09:00-21:00. Friendly and individual dive centre that offers trips to Ko Phi Phi as well as to famous local dive sites, such as Ko Sii, Ko Haa, Ko Talu and others. They offer a big range of courses from beginners up to professional, fun dives, free-diving and specialties in different languages.
• Raya Divers, +66 76 280074. Daily, 09:00-19:00. Finnish-run 5-star PADI shop; instruction also available in English. Good gear and an emphasis on safety.
• Scuba Addicts, 245/5 Moo 2 (On Ao Nang Rd opposite the marlin statue and tsunami warning tower, +66 75 6637394. 07:00-21:00. PADI and SSI training facility. Scuba Addicts offers diving and snorkeling adventures for all ages and abilities, tailored to suit your individual or group needs.
• Sea Gypsy Divers, 120 M.6, T. Nong Thale, +66 61 6570449. Full-service PADI Dive Center in a quiet village near Ao Nang. Offering all PADI courses, fun diving, and snorkeling packages. Daily dive trips to Ko Phi Phi and local islands.

Aqua Vision Dive Centre, 76/12 Moo 2 (On Ao Nang Rd 2 min up from McDonalds, +66 75 637415. Daily, 08:00-18:30. Experienced PADI 5-Star IDC dive centre. English, German, Swedish, French, Spanish, Russian, and Thai language dive guides. Dive trips by speedboat to Phi Phi and local islands. Weekly trips to Shark Point, Anemone Reef, King Cruiser wreck, trips also available to Hin Daeng, Ko Ha Yai, Racha Islands.

Kon-Tiki Diving and Snorkeling Center, 137 Moo 2 (In front of Krabi Resort, +66 75 637826. PADI 5-Star IDC dive centre . Their boats runs daily diving and snorkelling tours to Phi Phi Islands with weekly trips to Shark Point, King Cruiser wreck, Hin Daeng/Hin Muang.

Phran Nang Divers, 32/10 Moo 2. English-run PADI dive centre with over 15 years experience diving in Ao Nang. Courses run in English and German, most European languages also available.

Poseidon Dive Center, 69/9 Soi Tu Rian (On the main road, 70 m from Ao Nang Beach, opposite Ao Nang Villa and Ao Nang Orchid Resort, +66 98 071 9035. Daily, 09:00-21:00. Friendly and individual dive centre that offers trips to Ko Phi Phi as well as to famous local dive sites, such as Ko Sii, Ko Haa, Ko Talu and others. They offer a big range of courses from beginners up to professional, fun dives, free-diving and specialties in different languages.

Raya Divers, +66 76 280074. Daily, 09:00-19:00. Finnish-run 5-star PADI shop; instruction also available in English. Good gear and an emphasis on safety.

Scuba Addicts, 245/5 Moo 2 (On Ao Nang Rd opposite the marlin statue and tsunami warning tower, +66 75 6637394. 07:00-21:00. PADI and SSI training facility. Scuba Addicts offers diving and snorkeling adventures for all ages and abilities, tailored to suit your individual or group needs.

Sea Gypsy Divers, 120 M.6, T. Nong Thale, +66 61 6570449. Full-service PADI Dive Center in a quiet village near Ao Nang. Offering all PADI courses, fun diving, and snorkeling packages. Daily dive trips to Ko Phi Phi and local islands.

• PUSH Fitness Center, +66 975 637 118. Daily, 07:00-22:00. Good, centrally located, albeit expensive, gym. From 300 baht per visit to 22,000 baht yearly.

PUSH Fitness Center, +66 975 637 118. Daily, 07:00-22:00. Good, centrally located, albeit expensive, gym. From 300 baht per visit to 22,000 baht yearly.

• Tab Kak Hang Nak Nature Trail. The Tab Kak Hang Nak Nature Trail is northwest of Ao Nang close to beaches/resorts, a couple of kilometres north of Klong Muang Beach. It will take you through the jungle and up to a peak with a fantastic view over Ao Nang and more. A sign claims the hike to be 3.7 km but it feels like more. That's because the trail is almost all up. Thai trailblazers don't do switchbacks. No mosquitoes. There is a small ladder that needs to be climbed, but the trail is an easy one if you have decent shoes. Don't try this in flip-flops as the trail is rocky. with exposed roots and where it is not, it is certainly a mudslide when the ground is wet. At the trailhead they ask you to sign in with departure and return times.

Tab Kak Hang Nak Nature Trail. The Tab Kak Hang Nak Nature Trail is northwest of Ao Nang close to beaches/resorts, a couple of kilometres north of Klong Muang Beach. It will take you through the jungle and up to a peak with a fantastic view over Ao Nang and more. A sign claims the hike to be 3.7 km but it feels like more. That's because the trail is almost all up. Thai trailblazers don't do switchbacks. No mosquitoes. There is a small ladder that needs to be climbed, but the trail is an easy one if you have decent shoes. Don't try this in flip-flops as the trail is rocky. with exposed roots and where it is not, it is certainly a mudslide when the ground is wet. At the trailhead they ask you to sign in with departure and return times.

• Ao Nang was originally put on the travel map by backpackers, many of whom who came for the excellent climbing that Krabi's karst rock formations offer, and rock climbing is still widely available through centers in Ao Nang, although most of the climbs are in the areas around Rai Leh, Tonsai, and Phra Nang beaches.

Rai Leh. and Ko Phi Phi. are just around the corner and there are many tour operators offering activities such as sea kayaking and elephant treks. Rock climbing can be arranged through Ao Nang agencies who will arrange transfers, lunch, and as much climbing as your limbs can handle. Alternatively, simply sail over to [[Rai Leh]] or [[Ton Sai]] and organize an introductory course yourself.

Rai Leh. and Ko Phi Phi. are just around the corner and there are many tour operators offering activities such as sea kayaking and elephant treks. Rock climbing can be arranged through Ao Nang agencies who will arrange transfers, lunch, and as much climbing as your limbs can handle. Alternatively, simply sail over to [[Rai Leh]] or [[Ton Sai]] and organize an introductory course yourself.

• Bangkok Bank. Daily, 10:00-18:00. Full-service banking plus two ATMs, deposit machine, bank book update machine outside.

Bangkok Bank. Daily, 10:00-18:00. Full-service banking plus two ATMs, deposit machine, bank book update machine outside.

Unless you're in the market for souvenirs or liquor, shopping in Ao Nang is dismal. It has no shopping malls and aside from Tesco and Makro, no stores of significance. Buying a Western-language newspaper is out of the question. But there are plenty of convenience stores and souvenir shops. The vast majority of shops are lined nicely along Ao Nang Rd (beachfront). The regular tourist tchotchkes (e.g., postcards, magnets, trinkets) are plentiful as are tee shirts, flip-flops, and pretty much anything else you'll find elsewhere in Thailand. There are also tailors who will sell you a three-piece bespoke suit for 4,500-6,000 baht depending on the quality of the wool. Tailor-made shirts are 850-1,000 baht. Most of the tailors can get the suit done within a day. Don't ask how.

Three curious things about Ao Nang shopping: 1. there is only one "water machine" (in Ban Chong Phli) that are so common elsewhere in Thailand. These are the refrigerator-sized vending machines where one can fill up a 6 L (or less or more) bottle with purified water for about one baht per litre. A big down-side for the environment as more plastic bottles are the result. One suspects a water mafia that makes money delivering water is behind this. 2. Ao Nang has a dearth of gasoline stations. There are only three, all off-brand and inconspicuous, selling gasohol. Instead you will see free-standing gas pumps on every road outside of central Ao Nang. These self-service machines sell petrol for 39-42 baht per litre (Jan 2016). The nearest chain gas station on the way to Krabi (PPT) sells it for 23 baht per liter and an attendant pumps it for you. Someone is making a killing. 3. Most places in Thailand that host many Western tourists have supermarkets such as Rimping (Chiang Mai), or Tops (throughout Thailand), or even a backwater like Khao Lak, where one can buy Western breads, cheeses, salad dressings, sausages, or steaks. Not so in Ao Nang. You can't buy a hunk of Cheddar cheese or a can of pork and beans or Campbell's tomato soup in the Ao Nang Tesco. Best bet is Makro.

• Ao Nang Whisky, +66 81 535 7358. Alcohol is expensive in Thailand. Nonetheless, best selection of spirits, wines, and beers in Ao Nang. Probably the cheapest too. Jack Daniels, 700 ml, 1,450 baht.
• Makro. Bulk foods and household, restaurant supplies. Best selection of meats, pasta, rice, charcuterie, some Western foods, including cheeses. This is a small Makro. They do not sell pet food, for example, or much in the way of toiletries, or cookware. (The larger Makro in Krabi does.) Besides that, don't bother unless you want to buy beer by the case, or a gallon of mayonnaise. Membership card is not required.
• Mama Marche Supermarket. Daily, 24 hr. Sort of a locally owned 7-Eleven chain, but bigger and better. This store opened on 15 October 2016. Meats, fruit, and veg, and good for wine. Do not seem overly concerned about selling alcohol outside of the permitted hours of 11:00-14:00 and 17:00-24:00. Has a full-service restaurant inside. It's open till 22:00. Bakery adjacent to the entrance. Besides the store in Ao Nang, they have several other shops in the province. There is another smaller version in Ban Khlong Haeng, roughly opposite the 7-Eleven.
• PK Minimart. No posted hours. Another 7-Eleven-type store on steroids. Sells snacks, beach gear, cosmetics, souvenirs, luncheon meats, cheese, cigars, and lots of booze. One unusual souvenir item seen nowhere else: commemorative Thai coins and postage stamps.
• Sawatdee Stationery and Copy Centre, +66 18 947 454 or +66 75 695 304. Daily, 07:00-20:30. Sells an eclectic mix of stationery supplies, art supplies, greeting cards, and assorted gee gaws. Have industrial copy machines on premises. Will send/receive faxes, but not to overseas numbers, which sort of makes the service worthless.
• S Mart. Daily, no posted hours, but early to late. The shop is like an adult 7-Eleven, with a great selection of liquor and wine. Best selection of European beers and ciders in Ao Nang. Limited supply of cigars. An unbelievable amount of merchandise is crammed into this relatively tiny shop. The sell everything from beach balls to cutlery to snacks to tee shirts to flip flops to refrigerator magnets to sunglasses to snacks.
• Tesco-Lotus. Daily, 06:00-22:00. Standard Thai supermarket, but small, that must rank among the worst in Thailand. Sells beer, wine, and spirits. Very limited Western foods available unless you count packs of individually wrapped processed cheese slices.

Ao Nang Whisky, +66 81 535 7358. Alcohol is expensive in Thailand. Nonetheless, best selection of spirits, wines, and beers in Ao Nang. Probably the cheapest too. Jack Daniels, 700 ml, 1,450 baht.

Makro. Bulk foods and household, restaurant supplies. Best selection of meats, pasta, rice, charcuterie, some Western foods, including cheeses. This is a small Makro. They do not sell pet food, for example, or much in the way of toiletries, or cookware. (The larger Makro in Krabi does.) Besides that, don't bother unless you want to buy beer by the case, or a gallon of mayonnaise. Membership card is not required.

Mama Marche Supermarket. Daily, 24 hr. Sort of a locally owned 7-Eleven chain, but bigger and better. This store opened on 15 October 2016. Meats, fruit, and veg, and good for wine. Do not seem overly concerned about selling alcohol outside of the permitted hours of 11:00-14:00 and 17:00-24:00. Has a full-service restaurant inside. It's open till 22:00. Bakery adjacent to the entrance. Besides the store in Ao Nang, they have several other shops in the province. There is another smaller version in Ban Khlong Haeng, roughly opposite the 7-Eleven.

PK Minimart. No posted hours. Another 7-Eleven-type store on steroids. Sells snacks, beach gear, cosmetics, souvenirs, luncheon meats, cheese, cigars, and lots of booze. One unusual souvenir item seen nowhere else: commemorative Thai coins and postage stamps.

Sawatdee Stationery and Copy Centre, +66 18 947 454 or +66 75 695 304. Daily, 07:00-20:30. Sells an eclectic mix of stationery supplies, art supplies, greeting cards, and assorted gee gaws. Have industrial copy machines on premises. Will send/receive faxes, but not to overseas numbers, which sort of makes the service worthless.

S Mart. Daily, no posted hours, but early to late. The shop is like an adult 7-Eleven, with a great selection of liquor and wine. Best selection of European beers and ciders in Ao Nang. Limited supply of cigars. An unbelievable amount of merchandise is crammed into this relatively tiny shop. The sell everything from beach balls to cutlery to snacks to tee shirts to flip flops to refrigerator magnets to sunglasses to snacks.

Tesco-Lotus. Daily, 06:00-22:00. Standard Thai supermarket, but small, that must rank among the worst in Thailand. Sells beer, wine, and spirits. Very limited Western foods available unless you count packs of individually wrapped processed cheese slices.

Ao Nang restaurants are, in general, outrageously expensive. You will pay double or triple the price in Krabi town to eat here—main courses are about 150 baht—and seafood very much more (starts at 250 baht). If you are after cheap food, look for the street stalls or restaurants at either end of Ao Nang.

• Burger King, Ao Nang Rd. Daily, 24/7 in high season; 11:00-04:00 low season.
• McDonalds, Ao Nang Rd. Daily, 24/7.

Burger King, Ao Nang Rd. Daily, 24/7 in high season; 11:00-04:00 low season.

McDonalds, Ao Nang Rd. Daily, 24/7.

If you are the kind of person who rises early and enjoys breakfast with a cup of coffee and a newspaper, Ao Nang is not for you. As most of the larger hotels provide free breakfast, decent breakfast places are hard to find. Decent, cheap breakfast places are impossible to find. Daily newspapers? Forget about it. Even if some are supplied by the posher hotels, it will not be until the afternoon.

For cheap food, there are a few street carts scattered about, although most serve backpacker fare such as banana pancakes at 15 baht each. A lady serving fried chicken lady in front of the Tipa Resort also does good som tam (papaya salad) at 40 baht. Also look out for the yellow-signed noodle stalls with a "4" in a bowl as their logo, which serves a garlic-flavoured and tasty bamii muu daeng (roast pork noodles) for 25 baht.

The pad Thai served in a stall named "Kai Tieun Restaurant" is good and cheap. The noodle itself is not spicy although spice-rich condiments are available.

Generally the places along the beach are more expensive and the ones up the hill or down towards Nopparat Thara tend to be cheaper and better value. Even up past McDonald's on the right, some offer squid and fish at amazingly low prices.

• The Boat Cafe. No sign in English, but is easily recognisable by the old longtail boat outside where they serve up tom yum and other Thai soups at lunchtime. Popular with locals in the evening. 20-35 baht.
• Isan Food & Cooking Inter. Evenings. Weird name for a restaurant, but it doesn't matter as there is only one sign on the back wall of the restaurant's interior. Run by a lady (Noi?) from Issan. One of the cheapest restaurants in central Ao Nang. Simple Issan cooking. Large fish (tilapia?) seem to be the most popular fare here. Good and cheap.
• One More Restaurant. Low-key restaurant serving a variety of Thai dishes and seafood. The staff here are incredibly friendly.
• Tonsai Restaurant, Ao Nang Soi 15 (15 minutes from the beach up Airport Rd. Popular low-key restaurant offering Thai food.
• U & P Bakery House, 401/4 Moo 2 (At Ao Nang's one traffic light, go straight, out of town. About 2 km on your right., +66 81 895 6670. M-Sa, 06:30-17:00; closed Su. Nice little bakery/restaurant. One of the few places besides McDonalds to get an early-morning breakfast. Coffees. Excellent breads by Thai standards. They sell breads, nan, brownies, cakes, and a limited supply of Cheddar cheese retail (expensive; vintage Cheddar, 240 baht here and 170 baht at Makro). Pass on their 150 baht breakfast: two eggs, two strips of bacon, one barely edible 7-Eleven-style hot dog/sausage, and two slices of nondescript white bread. Instead order one of their breakfast sandwiches: real brown bread, generous filling, and cheaper price. Beware of sandwich number eight. Billed as ham and cheese, it is two 7-Eleven hot dogs and processed cheese. Free Wi-Fi. Egg/bacon sandwich, 100 baht.

The Boat Cafe. No sign in English, but is easily recognisable by the old longtail boat outside where they serve up tom yum and other Thai soups at lunchtime. Popular with locals in the evening. 20-35 baht.

Isan Food & Cooking Inter. Evenings. Weird name for a restaurant, but it doesn't matter as there is only one sign on the back wall of the restaurant's interior. Run by a lady (Noi?) from Issan. One of the cheapest restaurants in central Ao Nang. Simple Issan cooking. Large fish (tilapia?) seem to be the most popular fare here. Good and cheap.

One More Restaurant. Low-key restaurant serving a variety of Thai dishes and seafood. The staff here are incredibly friendly.

Tonsai Restaurant, Ao Nang Soi 15 (15 minutes from the beach up Airport Rd. Popular low-key restaurant offering Thai food.

U & P Bakery House, 401/4 Moo 2 (At Ao Nang's one traffic light, go straight, out of town. About 2 km on your right., +66 81 895 6670. M-Sa, 06:30-17:00; closed Su. Nice little bakery/restaurant. One of the few places besides McDonalds to get an early-morning breakfast. Coffees. Excellent breads by Thai standards. They sell breads, nan, brownies, cakes, and a limited supply of Cheddar cheese retail (expensive; vintage Cheddar, 240 baht here and 170 baht at Makro). Pass on their 150 baht breakfast: two eggs, two strips of bacon, one barely edible 7-Eleven-style hot dog/sausage, and two slices of nondescript white bread. Instead order one of their breakfast sandwiches: real brown bread, generous filling, and cheaper price. Beware of sandwich number eight. Billed as ham and cheese, it is two 7-Eleven hot dogs and processed cheese. Free Wi-Fi. Egg/bacon sandwich, 100 baht.

• A. One Restaurant, +66 94 586 4949. 09:00-22:00. Very good restaurant for lunch and dinner with a romantic ambience and attentive service. Full bar, Western and Thai menu. Skip the breakfasts: the Engilish breakfast is a whopping 290 baht. The American breakfast, at 210 baht, is two eggs, two slices of toast, bacon (three slices) or sausage, orange juice, coffee. Free Wi-Fi. Large ribeye steak, 450 baht; Hamburger, 190 baht; Greek salad, 190 baht.
• Khow Soy Restaurant. M-Sa, noon-22:00. The name is a playful, farang riff on "khao soi" or "khao soy", the popular northern Thai/Burmese noodle dish. Lovely restaurant with attentive service. Full bar service as it is adjacent to Rick's Bar, also worth a visit.
• Wanna's Restaurant. Offers rather good Thai and Swiss dishes for approximately 100 baht. The home made Swiss muesli with yoghurt and fresh fruit is highly recommended. The pad Thai here is quite good! Go to Burger King if you need a toilet as it is out the back!

A. One Restaurant, +66 94 586 4949. 09:00-22:00. Very good restaurant for lunch and dinner with a romantic ambience and attentive service. Full bar, Western and Thai menu. Skip the breakfasts: the Engilish breakfast is a whopping 290 baht. The American breakfast, at 210 baht, is two eggs, two slices of toast, bacon (three slices) or sausage, orange juice, coffee. Free Wi-Fi. Large ribeye steak, 450 baht; Hamburger, 190 baht; Greek salad, 190 baht.

Khow Soy Restaurant. M-Sa, noon-22:00. The name is a playful, farang riff on "khao soi" or "khao soy", the popular northern Thai/Burmese noodle dish. Lovely restaurant with attentive service. Full bar service as it is adjacent to Rick's Bar, also worth a visit.

Wanna's Restaurant. Offers rather good Thai and Swiss dishes for approximately 100 baht. The home made Swiss muesli with yoghurt and fresh fruit is highly recommended. The pad Thai here is quite good! Go to Burger King if you need a toilet as it is out the back!

• Carnivore, 127 Moo 3, +66 75 661 061. Daily, 15:00-23:00; kitchen open 16:00-22:00. Known for delicious steaks, beef or lamb. Chicken, pork, and duck as well, all prepared to high European standards. Luckily, you can order the steak in a size to suit your appetite or your budget: 200-400 grams. Nice ambience. The boss, Gidi, is a friendly Dutch national who runs a tight ship to high standards. Huge wine and European beer lists.
• The Hilltop, 99 Moo 3, +66 75 637195. 11:00-24:00. Lovely views at sunset. They will arrange transport if you reserve a table. Cocktails, 220 baht; main dishes, 200-400 baht.

Carnivore, 127 Moo 3, +66 75 661 061. Daily, 15:00-23:00; kitchen open 16:00-22:00. Known for delicious steaks, beef or lamb. Chicken, pork, and duck as well, all prepared to high European standards. Luckily, you can order the steak in a size to suit your appetite or your budget: 200-400 grams. Nice ambience. The boss, Gidi, is a friendly Dutch national who runs a tight ship to high standards. Huge wine and European beer lists.

The Hilltop, 99 Moo 3, +66 75 637195. 11:00-24:00. Lovely views at sunset. They will arrange transport if you reserve a table. Cocktails, 220 baht; main dishes, 200-400 baht.

Ao Nang's nightlife centers on two areas, which are known locally as "Center Point" and "The Soi" (Soi RCA). Another nightlife area, the strip of bars along Bamboo Soi, was demolished in 2014. Both Center Point (on the main beach road) and "The Soi" (about 200 meters up from the beach on the right just before McDonald's across the street) contain bars offering loud music, hostesses, and free pool.

The cheapest place to have a drink in Ao Nang is down Soi 17 off Ao Nang Rd (where Ao Nang Rd meets the beach and makes a sharp right turn). About 100 m down the soi are two kiosks that serve cocktails for 100 baht and beers (Leo, Chang, etc.) for 40 baht (May 2016).

Bars close in Ao Nang at 02:00, possibly a bit later if doing bang-up business, in which case the music and lights will be turned down, and the shutters lowered.

• Rick's Bar, Moo 2, 4201 Rd (Across from U&P Bakery, behind Khow Soy Restaurant, about 3km from central Ao Nang, +66 91 158 3641. Daily, 17:00-last man standing. At most bars in Ao Nang and elsewhere, you're served by a disinterested employee and lucky if you get a smile. At Rick's Bar you're served by two persons with skin in the game, the husband and wife team who run the place. A bit out of central Ao Nang, but worth the trip. Run by a courtly, knowledgeable, and affable Louisianan and his Thai wife, Rick's Bar is a comfortable place to drink. Nice ambiance, good music, no pressure. Prides itself on the coldest beer in Ao Nang. Sells pickled eggs, for chrissakes! Good selection of top shelf liquors. Pool table. Darts tournament every W night. Free Wi-Fi.
• Soi RCA. Ao Nang has some fairly well-hidden beer bars. The largest concentration is just off the main road on a soi with a big archway announcing "RCA" over the entrance. It has about 15 bars. A good place to go if you fancy a game of pool but have no partner. A bar hostess will be happy to serve as opposition (it is good manners to buy her a drink for doing so). No one seems to know what "RCA" stands for. It may be named after Bangkok's Royal City Avenue—more commonly known as RCA—the center of that city's club scene.
• Sweet Bar. 17:00-02:00. If you fancy a chilled out drink and few games of pool in a friendly location, go for a drink adjacent to Nopparat Thara Beach. There used to be several bars here. Now it's down to Sweet Bar. Excellent fireworks can be seen here at new year. Free Wi-Fi.
• Ting Tong Bar. 18:00-02:00. Spacious, clean bar with good music at a level that permits conversation, and a good pool table. Run by the amiable At and her husband, Patrick. Free Wi-Fi.

Rick's Bar, Moo 2, 4201 Rd (Across from U&P Bakery, behind Khow Soy Restaurant, about 3km from central Ao Nang, +66 91 158 3641. Daily, 17:00-last man standing. At most bars in Ao Nang and elsewhere, you're served by a disinterested employee and lucky if you get a smile. At Rick's Bar you're served by two persons with skin in the game, the husband and wife team who run the place. A bit out of central Ao Nang, but worth the trip. Run by a courtly, knowledgeable, and affable Louisianan and his Thai wife, Rick's Bar is a comfortable place to drink. Nice ambiance, good music, no pressure. Prides itself on the coldest beer in Ao Nang. Sells pickled eggs, for chrissakes! Good selection of top shelf liquors. Pool table. Darts tournament every W night. Free Wi-Fi.

Soi RCA. Ao Nang has some fairly well-hidden beer bars. The largest concentration is just off the main road on a soi with a big archway announcing "RCA" over the entrance. It has about 15 bars. A good place to go if you fancy a game of pool but have no partner. A bar hostess will be happy to serve as opposition (it is good manners to buy her a drink for doing so). No one seems to know what "RCA" stands for. It may be named after Bangkok's Royal City Avenue—more commonly known as RCA—the center of that city's club scene.

Sweet Bar. 17:00-02:00. If you fancy a chilled out drink and few games of pool in a friendly location, go for a drink adjacent to Nopparat Thara Beach. There used to be several bars here. Now it's down to Sweet Bar. Excellent fireworks can be seen here at new year. Free Wi-Fi.

Ting Tong Bar. 18:00-02:00. Spacious, clean bar with good music at a level that permits conversation, and a good pool table. Run by the amiable At and her husband, Patrick. Free Wi-Fi.

• Krabi Province Immigration. M-F, 08:30-16:30; closed for lunch, 12:00-13:00. Krabi's Immigration Office is great. It's modern, clean, comfortable, and well-staffed. The queue never seems to be more than 10 persons. Free Wi-Fi too.

Krabi Province Immigration. M-F, 08:30-16:30; closed for lunch, 12:00-13:00. Krabi's Immigration Office is great. It's modern, clean, comfortable, and well-staffed. The queue never seems to be more than 10 persons. Free Wi-Fi too.

• Dr Somboon Polyclinic, 249/10 Moo 2 (On inland side of the main road in Ao Nang. Huge sign. Adjacent is a 7-Eleven, +66 75 695 303. Nov-Apr, daily, 09:30-20:00; May-Oct, M-Sa, 16:00-20:00. General medical practice and minor surgery.

Dr Somboon Polyclinic, 249/10 Moo 2 (On inland side of the main road in Ao Nang. Huge sign. Adjacent is a 7-Eleven, +66 75 695 303. Nov-Apr, daily, 09:30-20:00; May-Oct, M-Sa, 16:00-20:00. General medical practice and minor surgery.

• Tourist Police, 1155. If you need help for anything short of assault or murder, these are your "go-to" folks.

Tourist Police, 1155. If you need help for anything short of assault or murder, these are your "go-to" folks.

• Ao Nang-Krabi Pharmacies. There seems to be a pharmacy every 50 metres in Ao Nang. They seem to specialise in sunscreen and skin whiteners. If you need a real drug, forget about it. Case in point: in what turned out to be a Snipe Hunt for Euthyrox, 50 mg, 19 pharmacies were visited in Ao Nang (16) and Krabi town (3). None of them had what can be found easily in Phuket, Khao Lak, Chiang Mai, or Udon Thani. If you require a specific medication, bring it. You may not find it here.

Ao Nang-Krabi Pharmacies. There seems to be a pharmacy every 50 metres in Ao Nang. They seem to specialise in sunscreen and skin whiteners. If you need a real drug, forget about it. Case in point: in what turned out to be a Snipe Hunt for Euthyrox, 50 mg, 19 pharmacies were visited in Ao Nang (16) and Krabi town (3). None of them had what can be found easily in Phuket, Khao Lak, Chiang Mai, or Udon Thani. If you require a specific medication, bring it. You may not find it here.

• Thailand Post, Ao Nang Rd (About 200 metres down the road from Tesco-Lotus (on the same side of the road). M-F, 08:30-16:30; Sa, Su, holidays, 09:00-12:00. The main post office sells, in addition to the usual stamps, cardboard boxes and packing supplies. In fact, they will help you pack your box. There is a post office annex across the street that handles poste restante and all incoming mail. You may pick up mail there. The coordinates are not exact, but will get you in the vicinity.

Thailand Post, Ao Nang Rd (About 200 metres down the road from Tesco-Lotus (on the same side of the road). M-F, 08:30-16:30; Sa, Su, holidays, 09:00-12:00. The main post office sells, in addition to the usual stamps, cardboard boxes and packing supplies. In fact, they will help you pack your box. There is a post office annex across the street that handles poste restante and all incoming mail. You may pick up mail there. The coordinates are not exact, but will get you in the vicinity.

• The cliffs and beaches of Rai Leh, just 15 minutes away by boat, make a great day trip. Phra Nang is the next beach past Rai Leh and has dramatic limestone karst rock formations. Names get confusing, as Ao Nang (the developed resort) is sometimes called Ao Phra Nang. From Phra Nang you can walk across to Rai Leh East, with its mangroves, and hire kayaks to paddle round the rugged peninsula. There's also a path from Rai Leh East to Rai Leh West where most longtails call.
• Ko Poda is another good day trip. You come back with the same boat and only pay on return. There's even an area to the right of where the longtails come in to Poda that's just worth snorkelling (unspectacular coral but a few fish).
• Ao Nang is one of the main gateways for travel to the Phi Phi islands, about 2 hours away by longtail boat, 40-50 min by speed boat. Many tour operators in Ao Nang offer day trips to Phi Phi. Included in the price (900-1,500 baht) is most often lunch, hotel transfer, and insurance.
• You can travel from Ao Nang to Ko Lanta easily. A ferry runs daily at 10:30, Aonang Princess. Book it at your hotel, price should be about 400 baht, and you will be picked up from your hotel and taken to the departure point, as well as met on the other side and taken to your hotel there.