Krabi Town

Thailand

Krabi town and its distinctive karst topography

Krabi (กระบี่), the capital of Krabi Province, sits a little upstream from the mouth of the Krabi River and is mainly visited en route to the nearby beaches of Had Yao, Ao Nang or Rai Leh (aka Railay). Krabi is 784 km south of Bangkok by road.

Krabi Town centre Krabi Town is, in reality, two towns. There is the dusty strip-mall of a town that borders Rte 4. And then there is the quite congenial and pleasant town of Krabi proper. The town's 50,000+ inhabitants see few of the droves of tourists that pass through on their way to the beaches. This is unfortunate, as those who stay find it a relaxed place that is worth exploring for a day or two, where they experience "the real Thailand", more so than in beach resorts.

A nearby fishing village. Tiger Cave Temple (Wat Tham Sua)

  • Contemporary Art Museum of Krabi. Th-Su, 10:00-17:00.
  • Khao Kanab Nam. The symbol of Krabi, two karst rocks next to one other. A 15 min longtail boat ride takes you from the pier to the rocks, where you can walk up some stairs to the top.
  • Tiger Cave Temple. One of the most famous temples in southern Thailand, built into a mountainside about 3 km north-northeast of Krabi Town, and swathed by tropical forest.
    • The first thing you see as you walk into the temple compound is a huge stupa on the right (closed for reconstruction in late 2016), but this isn't the Tiger Temple. The temple itself is set into the base of the karst cliff which rises sheer from the forested plain: follow the ramp into the hall. Buddhas line the cliff overhang, then a few narrow steps lead into the cave shrine itself. The temple was only founded in 1975, yet already there are several contradictory explanations of how the tiger was involved.
    • If you have at least an hour and feel fit, the first stairway beyond the temple has 1,237 steps to the top of the mountain, where there are great all-round views, and another large Buddha shrine. (This too is sometimes mistaken for the "Tiger Temple".)
    • Otherwise, continue through the monks' village to the second stairway, which offers an easier climb into a scenic valley (called "Wonderland") with several smaller cave shrines.
    • Signs warn you against feeding the monkeys, right next to signs advertising monkey food. Follow the warnings not the adverts: the monkeys are cute from a distance but utter pests close-up, and if they bite you (often without provocation) then you need rabies vaccine immediately.}}

Wat Kaew Korawaram temple

  • Wat Kaew Korawaram. One of the main temples in Krabi town. A new building, to some it resembles a shiny white wedding cake.

Contemporary Art Museum of Krabi. Th-Su, 10:00-17:00.

Khao Kanab Nam. The symbol of Krabi, two karst rocks next to one other. A 15 min longtail boat ride takes you from the pier to the rocks, where you can walk up some stairs to the top.

Tiger Cave Temple. One of the most famous temples in southern Thailand, built into a mountainside about 3 km north-northeast of Krabi Town, and swathed by tropical forest.

  • The first thing you see as you walk into the temple compound is a huge stupa on the right (closed for reconstruction in late 2016), but this isn't the Tiger Temple. The temple itself is set into the base of the karst cliff which rises sheer from the forested plain: follow the ramp into the hall. Buddhas line the cliff overhang, then a few narrow steps lead into the cave shrine itself. The temple was only founded in 1975, yet already there are several contradictory explanations of how the tiger was involved.
  • If you have at least an hour and feel fit, the first stairway beyond the temple has 1,237 steps to the top of the mountain, where there are great all-round views, and another large Buddha shrine. (This too is sometimes mistaken for the "Tiger Temple".)
  • Otherwise, continue through the monks' village to the second stairway, which offers an easier climb into a scenic valley (called "Wonderland") with several smaller cave shrines.
  • Signs warn you against feeding the monkeys, right next to signs advertising monkey food. Follow the warnings not the adverts: the monkeys are cute from a distance but utter pests close-up, and if they bite you (often without provocation) then you need rabies vaccine immediately.}}

Wat Kaew Korawaram. One of the main temples in Krabi town. A new building, to some it resembles a shiny white wedding cake.

  • Dhara Massage and Spa, 1/9 Ruamjit Alley (Just off Issara Rd on the small street near Soi Ruamjit. If you're walking away from the water on Issara, pass major street Ma Ha Rat Rd on your right, then take your first left and it will be on your left. Go get a relaxing but powerful (and wildly inexpensive) massage, or couples massage here. The two women working here have real certifications and training, and they are very focused on their work.

Dhara Massage and Spa, 1/9 Ruamjit Alley (Just off Issara Rd on the small street near Soi Ruamjit. If you're walking away from the water on Issara, pass major street Ma Ha Rat Rd on your right, then take your first left and it will be on your left. Go get a relaxing but powerful (and wildly inexpensive) massage, or couples massage here. The two women working here have real certifications and training, and they are very focused on their work.

Krabi Town is far cheaper than Ao Nang. This is reflected in the price of food and drinks especially. There are two night markets in Krabi Town that are worth a look, and on weekends there is the Walking Street market from 17:00-22:00.

  • Big C Supercenter, 349 Moo 11 Krabi Noi (On Hwy 4 between town and the airport, +66 75 810 411. 08:00-22:00. Large, two storey hyper-market. Food court, banks, and small retailers on the ground floor, Big C on the upper level. Big C sells everything from bicycles and TVs to toothpicks.
  • Makro, 119 Moo 1, Tambon Saithai, +66 75 700 100. 06:00-22:00. Bulk foods and household, restaurant supplies. Best selection of Western foods, including cheeses. Membership card is not required. There is a new Makro under construction in Ao Nang (Jan 2016). Should be ready in late-spring 2016.
  • Tesco-Lotus. Hypermart, much like Big C, but with slightly better food department. 08:00-22:00.
  • Vogue Department Store, 76/1 Maharaj Rd. 10:00-21:00. A throwback to another era, the Vogue is a 3-level department store selling brand name goods and designer labels. The basement offers bargains. Has a KFC and Swensens on-site.

Big C Supercenter, 349 Moo 11 Krabi Noi (On Hwy 4 between town and the airport, +66 75 810 411. 08:00-22:00. Large, two storey hyper-market. Food court, banks, and small retailers on the ground floor, Big C on the upper level. Big C sells everything from bicycles and TVs to toothpicks.

Makro, 119 Moo 1, Tambon Saithai, +66 75 700 100. 06:00-22:00. Bulk foods and household, restaurant supplies. Best selection of Western foods, including cheeses. Membership card is not required. There is a new Makro under construction in Ao Nang (Jan 2016). Should be ready in late-spring 2016.

Tesco-Lotus. Hypermart, much like Big C, but with slightly better food department. 08:00-22:00.

Vogue Department Store, 76/1 Maharaj Rd. 10:00-21:00. A throwback to another era, the Vogue is a 3-level department store selling brand name goods and designer labels. The basement offers bargains. Has a KFC and Swensens on-site.

Street vendor sells drinks in plastic bags

At night there is a charming night market close to the promenade next to the piers. Food is good and cheap, with Muslim influences. From time to time the town organizes shows on a small stage next to the market.

An even better market can be found on Maharaj Soi 10 in the centre of town. This market has plenty of fresh fruit and lots of authentic cooked food. Only a few places have menus, otherwise point and enjoy. This market does not sell alcohol. There is also the new Walking Street night market, between Vogue Department store and Vieng Thong Hotel, F-Su, 17:00-22:00 which sells food and general items such as clothes and handicrafts, and there is a largish seating area.

Not to be missed is the covered morning market (the biggest in south Thailand) on Maharaj Soi 9 (behind the Shell station). For early birds only. After 08:00 all the action is subsiding. Exactly at that time you can watch a show of national pride: the national anthem is played and almost everyone comes to a standstill for the duration. The best place to get all kinds of fresh fruit and vegetable, khao niao (sticky rice), Patong Khoo, cha rohn (sweetened Thai tea), or fresh hot soy milk. The section of fresh fish and meat sellers is for hardened stomachs only.

During low season very few restaurants open at all. The floating restaurant (RuenPae) is open as well as a couple near the tourist area towards the pier, but in the town very few at all. The floating restaurant does brilliant seafood at a reasonable price as well as providing mosquito coils to keep these pests away from your legs.

  • Arun. Good breakfast place with decent Thai coffee. Closed during low season.
  • Le Gateau. 10:00-21:00. Charming little French place that serves good coffees and desserts, Thai food, and a limited Western menu featuring steaks. Good place to take a date.
  • May & Mark's House Cafe & Restaurant, 6 Maharaj Soi 10, +66 75 612562. 07:00-21:00. The story of this restaurant is fascinating. Husband and wife Matee and Kittiya opened a small restaurant in 1990. It was named May and Mark after their two children. It offered a selection of pre-cooked curries to be served over rice. Travelers would stop and stare at the pots of curry, then move on. The owners did not know why. Later they figured out that farangs were unaccustomed to eating food that had been cooked and then left to sit. To lure farangs, the owners added pancakes to the menu. Things didn't improve much. To make ends meet they started renting out rooms above the restaurant. One boarder, a man named John Kean from New Zealand, stayed for two months. When he was not off exploring Krabi, he taught the owners how to bake bread and prepare farang food. The menu expanded and so did the customer base. Other travelers shared their favourite recipes. A woman from California taught the owners how to whip up some Mexican food. Soon they were serving food from Sweden, Denmark, Germany and elsewhere from an extensive menu. They also do Thai food, coffee, and serve beer. Free Wi-Fi. This is primarily a restaurant, but the friendly owners also keeps some rooms above the restaurant.
  • Relax Coffee. Great Western and Thai breakfasts plus decent coffee.
  • Ruen Mai Restaurant, Marharat Rd (About 2 km from the centre. Nice atmosphere and very good local dishes from 100 baht. Open daily, but closes from 15:00-17:00.
  • Sin-O-Cha Bakery. Also does meals and is a good place for breakfast or to have coffee and cake. At night the pavement pancake stall outside the bakery is always packed with locals. The pancakes are larger than those at other stalls.
  • Tamarind Restaurant, Chao Fa Rd (Near A Mansion Hotel. Excellent thin and crispy pizza from 150-190 baht; french fries and the pricey, lacklustre tuna salad are disappointing.
  • 31 Kitchen. Fantastic Thai food.

Arun. Good breakfast place with decent Thai coffee. Closed during low season.

Le Gateau. 10:00-21:00. Charming little French place that serves good coffees and desserts, Thai food, and a limited Western menu featuring steaks. Good place to take a date.

May & Mark's House Cafe & Restaurant, 6 Maharaj Soi 10, +66 75 612562. 07:00-21:00. The story of this restaurant is fascinating. Husband and wife Matee and Kittiya opened a small restaurant in 1990. It was named May and Mark after their two children. It offered a selection of pre-cooked curries to be served over rice. Travelers would stop and stare at the pots of curry, then move on. The owners did not know why. Later they figured out that farangs were unaccustomed to eating food that had been cooked and then left to sit. To lure farangs, the owners added pancakes to the menu. Things didn't improve much. To make ends meet they started renting out rooms above the restaurant. One boarder, a man named John Kean from New Zealand, stayed for two months. When he was not off exploring Krabi, he taught the owners how to bake bread and prepare farang food. The menu expanded and so did the customer base. Other travelers shared their favourite recipes. A woman from California taught the owners how to whip up some Mexican food. Soon they were serving food from Sweden, Denmark, Germany and elsewhere from an extensive menu. They also do Thai food, coffee, and serve beer. Free Wi-Fi. This is primarily a restaurant, but the friendly owners also keeps some rooms above the restaurant.

Relax Coffee. Great Western and Thai breakfasts plus decent coffee.

Ruen Mai Restaurant, Marharat Rd (About 2 km from the centre. Nice atmosphere and very good local dishes from 100 baht. Open daily, but closes from 15:00-17:00.

Sin-O-Cha Bakery. Also does meals and is a good place for breakfast or to have coffee and cake. At night the pavement pancake stall outside the bakery is always packed with locals. The pancakes are larger than those at other stalls.

Tamarind Restaurant, Chao Fa Rd (Near A Mansion Hotel. Excellent thin and crispy pizza from 150-190 baht; french fries and the pricey, lacklustre tuna salad are disappointing.

31 Kitchen. Fantastic Thai food.

There are a number of bars and cafe bars in Krabi town centre that cater to tourists, expats and natives. A few of them will have live bands at the weekend belting out cover songs, though Rocky Bar has live music every night. Stick to the main areas and it is most unlikely you will have anything but a pleasant time.

  • Krabi Province Immigration. M-F, 08:30-16:30; closed for lunch, 12:00-13:00. Krabi's Immigration Office is great. It's modern, clean, comfortable, and well-staffed. The queue never seems to be more than 10 persons. Free Wi-Fi too.

Krabi Province Immigration. M-F, 08:30-16:30; closed for lunch, 12:00-13:00. Krabi's Immigration Office is great. It's modern, clean, comfortable, and well-staffed. The queue never seems to be more than 10 persons. Free Wi-Fi too.

  • Thailand Post. All the usual services. Sell boxes and limited packing supplies.

Thailand Post. All the usual services. Sell boxes and limited packing supplies.